Just checking- Marlin

[Bret4207]

My Marlin 336SC 35 Remington sometimes fails to fire. This usually happens when bench resting the gun. If I make a concentrated effort to squeeze the lever I have no problems. I don't recall any adjustment that can be made on this. I also don't recall any other Marlin doing this. Could be someone else has been inside her before she moved in with me. Any thoughts?

[Bullshop]

Sounds like the Marlin safty, the two piece firing pin. Sometimes the lever may touch the frame before it pushes the pin into place. Sometimes the parts need to be adjusted so that when the lever is closed the two firing pin components are in perfect parrillel alignment. Sometimes the link may need to have a burr removed to insure smooth travel. Sometimes the channel in the bolt may just need to be degunked to insure free travel of the pin and link. If the conector peice is canted when the lever is fully to the rear you loose some of the energy of the hamer strike and travel of the pin. Another issue that can reduce hamer energy is a gunked up return spring on the link.
A sure cure is to instal a model 93 or model 36 solid one peice firing pin. The draw back to that is that your rifle can fire before the breach bolt is fully forward.
Hope some of this helps.
BIC/BS

[454PB]

I've developed a habit of gripping the lever on the outside of the loop and squeezing to prevent this problem.

[lmcollins]

I have an 1895GS and just went through the same problem for the first time after two years of use.

I field stripped the bolt in detail to make certain I didn't have a broken firing pin. Cleaned everything up real good inside. (Two roll pins to take out. One under the extractor, and the extractor was tight!) Make certain that the tip of the firing pin isn't broken-off some. Extend firing pin out of bolt face with the bolt stripped to check.

It appeared that nothing was broken or over gunked-up. At which time I decided to order a new hammer spring from Brownells. I thought maybe the spring was getting soft after three years. Replaced spring. (I could not tell a difference, but who knows without proper test equipment, and spring spec.)

I then took note of the fact that I'd fired about 30 rounds without pulling the bolt and cleaning : at which time I always retighten the screw in everything. I think my problem was that so many screws were loose (includiing the butstock screw) that the damn thing wouldn't let the lever close all the way -- even though the hammer still dropped.

When I re-assembled the rifle I used blue Loctite after cleaning screws and recesses into which they turn into. Fired 20 rounds 47 grains of H322 and 425 grain cast gas checked bullets. No problems, and everything is still tight.

By the way: I let the Loctite set for two days between assembly and shooting.

All-in-All, I have been thinkinking about making up a 450 Marlin on a new medium Howa barrled action in 22-250 that I have in the safe. I could open up the bolt face, and also throat it long, and crimp in the front lube grove of bullets from my RCBS 405GCFN mould. I'd use a 20 inch 1 in 18 barrel, and even be able to use x bullets.

Try all the screws and all bolt problems as Bullshop says first. Good luck.

[44man]

Not only does the firing pin need to be in line but the little safety behind the trigger has to be pushed up with the lever or the trigger won't work.

[Denver]

Had the same problem with a 52 vintage RC in 35 Rem. Replaced the rear section of the firing pin because the old one showed signs of mushrooming from use. Still had the same problem. Took the two pieces to my welder friend and had him make it one piece. Problem solved. [smilie=1:

[Lloyd Smale]

ive had the rear section of the firing pins get peened and if the gun is an older gun you might want to replace the hammer spring.