Trying to pour with ladle from top of pot?

[capt.hollis]

I've been trying to poor from the top of the pot with a ladle. My bowl is heated with propane, and its a small burner . My question is I'm getting wavy/rippled bullets . ? I don't think I'm pouring consistent enough, but pouring pretty quick if that makes sense. Seams like I'm constantly having to clean the top of the lead sheen off. My bullets look like hell. I do have a lee spot pour on order. Is this going to make my life easier ? Lol. I've been lubing my molds but keeping the cavities free of the lube as far as I know . Maybe my lead isn't hot enough, but it really seems to me to be .
Thanks guys

[kenyerian]

Do you have a thermometer? They are really helpful .

[detox]

Your alloy is not hot enough. Cast between 750-800 degrees. Buy the RCBS casting thermometer. Preheat your mould with propane torch. Clean cavities with Q-tip and evaporating solvent.

[capt.hollis]

I believe your right Detox. I have a thermometer. Seems to be getting around 650 degrees

[John Boy]

Maybe my lead isn't hot enough, but it really seems to me to be . Yep, crank the pot temperature to about 730 or so when the sprue puddle frosts after 5 seconds with a 5 second pour. You'll have nice bullets then

[williamwaco]

. Yep, crank the pot temperature to about 730 or so when the sprue puddle frosts after 5 seconds with a 5 second pour. You'll have nice bullets then



ditto!

[bangerjim]

Temp is the thing!

Also I use an RCBS cast iron bottom pour ladle that holds a bunch of soup and, being CI and larger capacity, it holds the lead at casting temp. With the bottom/lower side pour ladles, you do NOT have to worry about "stuff" on the surface of your melt pot.

Pours peeerrrrrty boolits! Just as good as my Lee bottom pour 20#er.

bangerjim

[BNE]

You will appreciate the bottom pour pot when you get it. "ripples" typically mean you are too cold, "Frosty" boolits typically mean you are too hot. It is still FUN, no matter what!

[detox]

Too hot is WAY better than too cold. I cast between 750-800 degrees...especially when using my RCBS bottom pour pot.

[Mk42gunner]

Cleaning a spot to ladle from is pretty normal for ladle casting; it is why I really like the RCBS ladle with the fin on the bottom.

Three pretty standard answers regarding wrinkled boolits are:

1. Alloy is too cold. Your temp of 650 degrees could be fine.

2. Mold needs cleaning. I would scrub one of your molds with dish soap and hot water, then apply the tiniest amount of lube you can.

3. Mold is too cold. This is what I think the major problem is. I have cast a lot of boolits at around 650 degrees, give or take a few degrees.

Now for some questions, What mold(s) are you using? I would take one and get it working, before trying to run two or more.

How are you preheating your mold? Taking a cold mold and filling it with lead will take a long time to get it up to temp.

What alloy?

What ladle are you using? I started with a repurposed small stainless ladle that held about ¼ cup, getting the RCBS dipper helped tremendously.

Bottom pour pots can help, but you still have to have good technique. If the mold or alloy is too cool, or oil is in the mold; you still get wrinkled fugly boolits. Where I think the electric pots helped me the most is that they are insulated, therefore more comfortable to use than a cast iron pot on a gas flame.

Good luck,

Robert

One more thing,

I think I have cast more boolits from my Lee 4-20 with a ladle than I have from the bottom pour spout. I just like using the ladle better.

R

[country gent]

Another trick to ladle casting alot dont consider is to let the ladle "soak" for few secondsbefore removing it from the lead to bring it up to temp. A cold ladle dipped filled and removed quickly will act as to cold lead.I ussually dip the ladle deep make a swirl motion in the pot and then remove it and pour. Set the mold on the spout and tip them together so ladle is upright and hold for a moment. pour sprue when tipping ladle down. Wait to harden and cut.

[WILCO]

I believe your right Detox. I have a thermometer. Seems to be getting around 650 degrees

In addition to the correct information you've been given, here's a thread that should help also:

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?127865-Switched-ladles&highlight=switched+ladles

[geargnasher]

I dunk my ladle and leave it in the pot while I cut the sprue and dump the boolits, it never gets a chance to cool off.

If the alloy is hot enough to flow out of the ladle spout it will make good boolits PROVIDED you cast fast enough to keep the mould up to the right temperature.

When starting off, one of the biggest points of casting is the one most people seem to have trouble with: How to manage their casting pace to get and keep the mould up at optimum casting temperature for that particular mould. Some "band-aid" slow casting routines and too-cold moulds by cranking up alloy temperature way past where it needs to be. The results are usually shrunken middle driving bands, generally undersized boolits, and tin depletion in the alloy during the course of the session though excessive oxidiation rates due to overheated alloy.

When ladle-pouring, it helps to minimize alloy temperature and maximize mould temperature with a brisk casting pace and pouring lots of extra lead over the mould while the boolit hardens. This keeps the rate of oxide dross formation as slow as possible and extends time between fluxings during a casting session.

Gear