Looking at startimg to cast 45 acp need help.

[carbine86]

id like some advice on what a good mold would be and what type of lead would work best thanks.

[462]

It may be the forum's most discussed cartridge -- a search will provide much information. Two long-time, traditionally excellent mould designs are Lyman's 452374 and 452460.

I don't know "what type of lead would work best", but I don't use a hard alloy.

[RobS]

Depends on the $$$. I would go with the entry level to see if you like the "hobby" which if liked could result in a obsession and you'll be casting, buying molds and shooting a lot more. Lee equipment is the least expensive route but comes it's pitfalls such as having to do the finishing on their equipment as molds in particular come with burrs and things. At such a low price in comparison though it's still a bargain. A lee mold, sizing die and some tumble lube with a preference to the 45-45-10 Recluse lube. As for equipment you need for melting the lead you could use an old Coleman burner and a cast iron pot/pan and a ladle but I would go with a Lee 20# pot......and I lean toward a bottom pour vs ladling.

The Lee TL452-230-TC is a good design as is the traditional lube groove 452-230-TC. As to alloy wheel weight (WW) alloy works well as does a mix of WW and play lead of around 50/50 ratio.

More info as to what you are wanting to do...i.e. target practice, competition, etc. as well as investment will help a great deal in providing advice.

Also there is the issue of firearms intended for use and the groove diameter so you can get a mold/sizing die appropriate for your barrels diameters. Too small of a cast boolit is a real PITA to get to shoot accurately and without leading (these two go hand in hand often).

[Three44s]

To ease into boolitology, I'd also recommend starting with a TL design.

Less investment and hassle ........ see if casting is really your "cup of tea" .... then branch into more sophisticated tooling.

Best of luck and hope to see you really enjoying yourself!

Three 44s

[fcvan]

When I first started shooting a 1911, I bought a Lee 452-228 2R and cast with range scrap. Over 6 grains of Unique it is a great performer in every 45 I've shot, mostly 1911 pistols. Because of all the hoopla, I bought the Lee 452-200 SWC and I load that over the same 6 grain charge. Of late, I've been shooting a 450-200 1R HP as it drops .452 at the base, tapered to .455 at the front band.

The 1911 has shot every other boolit I've tried quite well so I shouldn't need to buy any other molds. Still, I have 2 more I want to buy just because. I have a buddy who shoots a CZ and it is finicky about what you feed it. I'm likely going to try out the 452-230 TC because I think it might feed better in his weapon.

Casting and loading for the 45 can be a sickness. There is no cure once you've become inflicted.

[knifemaker]

That Lee 452-230TC mold is a very good one to start out casting for the 45acp. I have that mold in a 6-cavity. I went with a standard lube groove and not tumble lube design as I do not like the mess with tumble lube and I already had a Lyman lube-sizer.
I use a alloy mix of 50-50 clip on wheel weights & pure lead and have had no problems in using that boolit in about 4-5 different pistols. Very accurate and no leading problems.

[ku4hx]

My favorite boolit for our 45s is the Lee 230 grain TL TC. It works extremely well in our Llama "Especial", both KP90s, the XDm-45 3.8 and the Glock 30SF. I couldn't be happier.

Here's what they look like loaded and sized, lubed and dusted with Motor Mica ready-to-load:

[gray wolf]

As for mold choice ? any proven mold that has worked well in the past should work in the future and work for you also. You say a 45 ACP, years ago that mostly referred to a 1911 pattern pistol, but now a days the 45 ACP can be had in everything from high tech metal alloys to plastic frame pistols. Some of them are a little picky.
As for metal ? anything that will melt below 600* F should work, for hot rod loads you may need to be a little more picky as to the alloy.

[detox]

RCBS 45-201-SWC mould
Bullseye, Unique, or Tightgroup powder
Lee .451 sizer and lube kit with alox lube
Lyman #2 alloy (14 -15bhn) works good in autos

[MtGun44]

H&G 68 clone (200 SWC) is the best, with 452460 (200 SWC with a shorter nose) as a close second, IMO.
452374 works well, but consumes more precious Pb alloy per shot for no benefit.

Not a fan of TL, strongly dislike the sticky crud on the nose of the boolit. I DO understand that it works, especially
for low intensity cartridges like .45 ACP, and is low cost for a beginner. I suggest looking up pan lubing as a low cost
alternative, and use NRQA 50-50 lube and the Lee push thru sizer system to size to .452 diam. Ordinary wheelweight alloy or
anything near it will work fine. No need whatsoever for hard boolits in this cartridge.

Is there only one answer that will work? NO! Is there a well known optimum? YES, H&G 68 accurate clone
loaded to between 1.250 and 1.260 depending on barrel throat, loaded over 4.8 of Bullseye or Titegroup or 5.6
of W231. TAPER CRIMP AS A SEPARATE OPERATION to a case mouth dimension of between .465 and .470.
This will work very well in the overwhelming majority of 1911s and most other .45 ACPs. Early XDs have
problems with SWCs, fixed with current production.

Bill

[Airman Basic]

My favorite boolit for our 45s is the Lee 230 grain TL TC. It works extremely well in our Llama "Especial", both KP90s, the XDm-45 3.8 and the Glock 30SF. I couldn't be happier.

Here's what they look like loaded and sized, lubed and dusted with Motor Mica ready-to-load:

Been considering Motor Mica after tumble lubing. How do you apply it? Tumbling like the lube? Advice appreciated.

[mikeym1a]

I started with a 2cav Lee .45 200gr semi-wadcutter microgroove mold. Loaded them with a Lee loader. Really slow, but worked great. Stepped up to a Lee production pot, the 6 cav version of the same boolit. For alloy, I used 1lb of 50/50 solder & 9lbs of WW's. Tumble lubed with Alox. Always worked. Never have had a failure to feed, fire, or eject. Since it worked, I never changed. :grin:

[hanleyfan]

I don't see why you guys are saying tumble lube is sticky, I tried the 45/45/10 tumble lube and my boolits dry completely in 4 hours and they are not sticky or even tacky to the touch. I was pan lubing with speed green and that lube was far more of mess to use than 45/45/10 is. In fact I like so well I switched to it completely,

[prs]

I have been reloading since 1976. But for the 1911 45 ACP for only a little over a year. Initially, I ran into problems with this "easy to load for" cartridge. I wanted an SR1911 and they were and are almost as scarce as hen's teeth. So I purchased moulds, two 6 cavity from Lee (TL-452-230-2R and 452-230-TC). I had and have many other Lee 6 cav moulds for other uses and have had very little to complain about. I find the tumble lube boolits a bit more difficult to cast perfectly. I intended to rely upon tumble lube, it is so convenient and fast to do. So I cast and then lubed with Lee Liquid Alox and also with Recluse's recipe. Not sticky or gooey, I let it cure before loading. When I finally got my new SR 1911, I had about 2,000 rounds ready and waiting. They leaded like crazy! I am still shooting some of those, on days when I shoot alone so the swearing won't burn young ears, just to pink and recover my brass, I sure am good at getting Christmas tree tinsel strips of lead out of my barrel. What a PIA!

Part of my trouble was loaded cartridge fit, my OALs tended to be on the long side as I used loading manual data for similar boolits and not a cartridge gauge or better yet the actual barrel as a cartridge guage. Fit is much and I learned the hard way. It helped. But, the biggest improvement was abandoning the tumble lube and going with good ole NRA 50/50. With proper fit of bullet to barrel and cartridge to chamber plus the NRA lube I have ZERO, NADA, ZILCH leading. That Lee 452-230-TC traditional lube boolit works great in the SR1911 and my second SR1911 CMD. MtGun44 is right about the 230 grain boolits being a bit wasteful and I had/have the bug so I added a Lyman 4 cavity 452460 (200g SWC) to my collection and I got a good one that does not drop undersize (it drops my 95:2:3 alloy right at .453" even with a light frost). Those boolits hold mucho lube and feed very well and are very accurate, but watch the cartridge loaded length, mine are a bit shorter than the books state in order to pass the barrel plunk test or to fit the Wilson cartridge gauge. Great boolit. Well, the bug being what it is, I also procured a Lyman 4 cavity 452374, the hardball clone. It is also a great shooter and feeds like the gun was designed for it, cause it was, I think. But, like MtGun has told, Ya, this route has you pan lubing (yuk on that) or buying a lube/sizer $. I already had a 450 lube sizer, just need a 452 die and top punch for the hard ball clone. No heater needed or desired with NRA lube.

I hope that helps more than confuses. I realize others apparently gel along just fine with TL process, and so do I for my 40S&W, 38SPCL, and what little smokeless 45 Colt I use; but in the SR 1911s I have, it does not get the job done. Maybe my fault in some way.....

prs

[trixter]

After about 4 years of casting lately, and 7 years before that back in the late 70's and 80's (all of this while knowing nothing about what I was doin); I have come to several conclusions. 1: I really like the convenience of tumble lubing (quick and inexpensive). 2: I have a Lee TL 452-200 SWC 6 cavity mold that drops boolits every time I open it. 3: The Lee .451 push-thru sizer is also quick and inexpensive and accurate too. 4: I have other molds and a Star Lube-sizer and they work great too, but I am partial to quick and easy, and inexpensive.

Final conclusion: Easy and inexpensive suites me just fine.

You can PM me if you care to discuss any of the above.

[USAFrox]

I started out with a 6-banger Lee TL-452-230-2R and range lead that I picked up for free. The round nosed profile made these bullets just jump out of the mold. Easy fill, easy everything. Super easy for a beginner like I am. Very few rejects at all. Highly recommend it.

[HATCH]

I would go for the 230 round nose also.

I haven't ever done TL so I can't recommend that type of design.

[Blammer]

This mould and WW alloy will be the easiest and best way to start.

http://noebulletmolds.com/NV/product_info.php?cPath=41&products_id=64

[Blammer]

I also like the RCBS 45 200gr mould too.

[plainsman456]

I have used the RCBS 200 grain and it worked so well that i now own 2.

The alloy i use is range scrape and ww,powder is usually Bullseye.

[John Boy]

H&G 68 clone (200 SWC) is the best Agree totally. Bhn 15.4 WW's or Lyman #2. Lubed with diluted Lee Alox and charged with 4.2 up to 4.5grs of Red Dot.
Since you'll probably use several magazines at a single shooting, recommend the Accurate 5 cavity H&G 68 clone mold ... http://www.accuratemolds.com/bullet_detail.php?bullet=45-200H-D.png

Don't use RCBS dies for reloading. Weak crimp & a PIA adjusting the seating die. The Lee die set with the Factory Carbide Crimp die makes excellent rounds