Just getting started

[carbine86]

I bought a lee 50th anniversary breech lock press kit. Looking for amy advice as far what to watch out for or any add on that would help make things easier. I already bought a digital scale. Im going to be reloading 223 308 for starters, but will move into 45acp 44 mag 270 30-06 300 savage and 300 win mag in the future once i get going. Thanks in advance.

[jmort]

"Looking for any advice as far what to watch out for or any add on that would help make things easier."

I like hand priming. You could get the Lee Precision Ergo Prime from Titan (site sponsor - link at top of page) and you need the priming shell-holder set. I also like to use powder dippers and the Lee Precision set is cheap.

[slim1836]

Welcome to the madness.
A trickle charge is needed, don't think it was included in the kit.
Check your LEE scale against the digital one, I think a penny (check on internet) weighs 38.6 grains.
Are you getting into casting your own? If so, there is a lot of info to be gained here.
I like the Lyman 49th edition reloading manual as it has info on cast boolits, many do not.

Hope this helps,

Slim

[Wayne Smith]

At least two manuals of data plus what the powder companies have posted online. You cannot have too much information about safe and sane loads. A couple of cartridge blocks, I made mine but I do woodwork, too.

[carbine86]

Ive got the blocks made already. Going to start casting 45s this winter. As far as powder there is a lee prescision powder measure. Thanks for the help so far guys.

[kevindtimm]

Ive got the blocks made already. Going to start casting 45s this winter. As far as powder there is a lee prescision powder measure. Thanks for the help so far guys.

That measure is good once you know what it throws - for that you'll need either a beam scale or a digital (which I think you mentioned you already have).
The Lee data is wrong in many cases for the precision powder measure, they underestimate the throw weight. You will (for sure) have to throw a bunch of charges, measure them and create your own data book. That said, once you get it working, it's a joy :)

[Recluse]

I would start my reloading experience and journey with 45ACP rather than .223 or .308--and for a variety of reasons:

• .45ACP is a lot more forgiving of reloading newbie mistakes

• Because it is more forgiving, far less likely to have a mishap that severely damages you or your firearm

• Larger brass and projectile, so it is easier to physically see what is happening in each stage of the reloading process.

• I'll throw the "it's safer" factor in once again for good measure.

• The only cartridge better than .45ACP to learn how to reload with would be the .38 Special as it's even more forgiving.

• On its best day, the .223/5.56 can be a finicky round--made even more so by whichever firearm it is being shot from. Trying to find and eliminate errors or make subtle adjustments with this round (as well as any bottlenecked high velocity round) can be an exercise--made even worse if you're not sure the relationship between all elements of the reloading process. I look at .45ACP and .38 Special as optimal "training rounds" for learning how to reload. The knowledge and experience you quickly gain will come in useful as you begin to load more complex rounds like .223 and .308.

For your Lee Perfect Powder Measure, "break it in" per the instructions by running a pound or so of powder through it. I've had mine (Lee PPM) for over 25 years and it has outlasted an RCBS, Hornady and Lyman powder measure throughout that time so far as consistent accuracy is concerned. Maybe I got lucky, but that little $20 powder measure has done me incredibly well having charged tens of thousands of rounds over the past two and almost three decades. Not a thing against the other brands--they are built superbly and are awesome units, but don't let anyone knock your powder measure.

For your rifle rounds, I'd say a pair of calipers are an absolute must. I loaded pistol rounds for years without the need (I thought) for calipers, but upon graduating to the rifle rounds, their value became apparent very quickly.

I would not start loading .223 using cast boolits but instead using jacketed projectiles. Pushing a little itty-bitty 55-grain lead projectile over 2K fps brings on a whole new set of challenges. Get some standard 55 grain jacketed .223 projectiles and use some standard loading data using common powders and start from there. Winchester 748 or Hodgdon 335 are my absolute favorites for consistent velocity and accuracy using just about ANY projectile in .223.

For .308, I'd also suggest beginning with jacketed projectiles. For the powder, I've not found anything to beat IMR 4350 or IMR 4895. Some members at the private gun club like the Hodgdon powders, and one guy who is kind of a mystical wizard at the reloading bench actually prefers Accurate Arms rifle powders. I love--repeat, love love love--my AA powders for pistol cartridges, but have had zero luck with them in rifles. In fairness, the last one I tried was over twenty years ago and it was the 2230 heralded as being perfect for .223. It sucked for me. I even gave some to the wizard at our club and he couldn't get anything remotely decent out of it. I'm thinking I got a flat bad lot--and again, that was MANY years ago shortly after AA came onto the scene. AA#5 is my absolute powder for jacketed 9mm cartridges, .38 Special 158SWC and anything .44 Special and I get some outstanding loads and groups using it for mid-range magnum loads in both .357 and .44. AA#2 gives me great accuracy in 9mm cast using 120 gr TC boolits.

The most important tool you'll need and use is between your ears. Be careful and be patient. Doing so will allow you to enjoy the immense satisfaction and pride that comes with handloading your own cartridges.

:coffee:

[WILCO]

I bought a lee 50th anniversary breech lock press kit. Looking for amy advice as far what to watch out for or any add on that would help make things easier.

I wouldn't do anything until you read "Modern Reloading" by Richard Lee. Also, I would start reloading with full metal jacket bullets, saving cast boolits for when you have a good grasp on the tasks at hand. Recluse is right regarding the .45 ACP.

Best wishes as you move forward.

[btroj]

Recluse gave excellent advice.

I really agree with the comment on the equipment between your ears. It is a great safety device if properly engaged.

[waksupi]

Yep, start with short fat rounds to learn. The boolit smarter you get, the smaller caliber you can manage! ;-)

[myg30]

And NEVER BE in a hurry to finish up or Don't even start to reload if you don't have the time ! You can do odd jobs like de capp brass, clean primer pockets, double and triple check your scale but never start dropping powder till you have plenty of time to do so.
Recluse advice is +1. 45 is the best to get your feet wet on.
Good luck, be safe and enjoy the results !!

Mike

[histed]

Ditto to what recluse said above. In addition to his .308 powders, I've yet to find anything better than Varget for
.308, and I find it works well with my .223 as well. 38 Special and .45 ACP are a good place to start as training rounds. I consider a good flashlight vital, especially with pistol/revolver reloading. After you've charged all the cases, tip the block and examine every case to make sure 1) there's powder in all of them, 2)no charge looks "odd" - too much or too little. It is easy to double charge .38s with a great many powders and this is never good.

With the .223, check your rate of twist if you haven't already. Early on I bought some 65 grain bullets for longer range and couldn't get a 5 shot group under 4" with any powder/primer/seating depth combo. That's when I learned about rifling twist and that mine was too slow for anything over 55 grains. Hope this helps. Slow, steady and careful

[gwpercle]

Go slow, don't rush, pay attention to details, double check powder charge weights.
Get Lyman's Cast Bullet Handbook if you don't have it. Loads of good info, tips and techniqes .
Gary

[EDG]

I think there is a perception by many newbies that you always sit down and complete all steps from cleaning to crimping in one session. I know that in the beginning you want to get to the completed final product ASAP.

You will be better served if you work on your handloading in short sprints, store the in process cases and return to finish when you can. Do this work in chunks and it never becomes an all day chore that you hate to start.

First consider that you need to clean your cases to prevent grit and dirt from scratching your FL dies.
Clean all cases if you have a large lot and set aside or store for later completion.
FL size and decap. Clean primer pocket if you do that. This will complete another session
Trim and deburr Session Completed
Prime Another session done
Charge with powder and seat bullets Another session completed

With very small lots you might complete all or several of the steps.
With large lots, do it in steps at your own pace. Store in process brass until you can complete all steps.

I normally finish large lots up to the completion of sizing and trimming and store the brass.
I can then prime the entire lot or just part of it.
Then I can finish by loading any size lot large or small.

[Forty Rod Ray]

Good evening,

Do you know any hand loaders? Have you spent any time with a hand loader? All previous advice is fine. I strongly urge you to find someone who loads to spend time with. There is nothing like it. A few friendly words, no smoking, no drinking period. This is a game of discipline, a must. And consistency, also a must. This is also a fun constantly learning hobby, but you have remember that when you shoulder that fine 308 and touch off a round, that just a few inches in front of your dominant eye is several tens of thousands of energy trying to get out of a wee brass bottle. If you are manufacturing the cartridge, you are responsible for what happens. When everyone does his job, you can be credited for a good rifle, excellent load, and being smart enough to use them properly. This hobby won't tolerate a lot of foolishness or sloppy careless loading practices. Most folks are simply embarrassed, but much more than egos can be hurt.

My simple advice is find two or three "old hands" or if there's a formal class you might attend, either will be worth your while.

Friends please add or subtract to this rambling as you see fit. I believe that we all want the best for our fellow shooter and handloader. I wish he lived near me.

Warmest regards,

F R Ray Strong

[Le Loup Solitaire]

Regardless of the powder measure or scale that you choose, it is advisable to have a set of check-weights to keep your equipment honest. So if you choose coins (a penny is a good start) make sure that their weight is properly calibrated before you use them. A pharmacist or school lab has the equipment to do that. Keep your weights in a dry sealed place and use them regularly. LLS

[Wayne Smith]

Yes, you might read the stickie on Citric Acid brass cleaning when you have a spare day or so. It is a good method when you are not in a hurry, you can deprime, dump them in the acid, pull them out, and leave them for the rest of the day or week. They are dry and clean when you come back to reprime the lot. Now you are ready to sit down and load as many of them as you need or for which you have boolits. Note, especially with the 45ACP, you will soon have many more brass than you have boolits. One, it is available for the picking at every range I have shot at, and, two, it simply doesn't wear out. I have over a thousand, bought maybe 300 of them, and have been shooting the cartridge for maybe three years!

[carbine86]

Thanks for all the helpful advice. My stepdad(hatcreek) is going to help me when he can make it out by me and vice versa.

[waco]

Be sure and read through all the "stickies" here!
Lots of good info.

[gray wolf]

The first thing I would do is get a good beam scale, as in an RCBS 502 or better yet a 505, and the RCBS or Lyman lesser expensive check weight set. You will have them for years and when your my age you will type this same message to someone else just starting out.
When it comes to powder ( you can have to much of a good thing )
Be careful and always alert, don't get distracted. As usual the folks have given you some great advise.

[Mike 56]

I don't know what digital you bought I have a cheap Frankford Arsenal digital scale. It it rounds up or down to the nearest tenth of a grain not a big problem for bigger loads not so good for small loads. My digital runs on battery's when they start to wear out the scale starts to go a little crazy. The Lee scale that came in Lee Kit is vary accurate the problem I had with mine looking at the scale pointer it is hard to see and the beam does not have magnetic dampener so you have to wait for the beam to level out. I built a table for my Lee scale using scrap wood and carriage bolts for legs. The table lifts the scale up so I can see the pointer well and I am able level the scale. I don't work off scales I use then to check powder measures and dippers. I always use two scales to set up.

Sooner are later you will find yourself using Lee Dippers. It took me a while to figure out how to use them well. When I first started using them I would sweep them though the powder. After using them for a while I found that if you push the dipper into the powder and lift it straight up they work much better.

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/11/06/9eju6ypy.jpg

[Wayne Smith]

My powder scales are on a shelf independent of the bench. This both puts them at eye level but isolates them from vibrations created by the loading process.