357 Maximum light cast bullet loads

[gunauthor]

I realize the 357 Maximum was designed as a "balls to the wall" caliber, but I've grown tired of the blast from full throttle loads. I'd like to shoot cast bullets, primarily at paper and plinking targets. I have lots of maximum brass and prefer it to 38/357. Any ideas, thoughts, HELPFUL comments are greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance......

[Johnch]

OK

Not from a load book
But I shoot mid range 357 Mag loads
Loaded in 357 Max cases
In my TC Contender barrels ( 10" , 12" and 14" barrels )

Even with the reduced loads
180 gr Boolits shoot the best

I use a flake powder , NOT Win 296 OR H 110

John

[gunauthor]

Thanks Johnch, I'll give it a try.

[Tatume]

You don't mention what gun you have. Mine is a T/C Contender, and doesn't have the problems you might with a revolver.

[gunauthor]

Sorry, getting old..... I have a Dan Wesson with an 8 inch barrel.

[Tatume]

In that case (and you probably already know this) you shouldn't use lightweight bullets except at modest speeds (which you said was your plan anyway). High velocity lightweight bullets have been linked to flame cutting of the top strap of revolvers. Just covering the bases.

My Contender shoots cast bullets well with modest charges of Unique. I recommend against fillers. Just experiment with charges until you get what you need. You might start at around 38 Special maximum loads for the bullet weight you want to try. Just be careful to get at least 700-800 fps so you don't get a bullet stuck in the barrel. If your loads are too light (600 fps or less), check the bore after every shot until you get speed up some.

[dmize]

Having only owned 357 Magnums. The only thing I have ever heard or read about "problems" with a Maximum in a revolver was using overly light bullets with powder charges that attempted to beat the speed of light,
In my opinion you could shoot normal Magnum loads in that beast much less even a 38 special +P until the sun goes super nova and NEVER hurt the gun.
The only thing I can think of suggesting is to A. NEVER load DOWN a H110/296 load. B,sell some of your Max brass and get some magnum brass and C. Do some carefull studying of case capacity/pressure with your Max brass.

[GaryN]

You know that 357 Maximum brass makes excellent blunts for 23/64 wood arrows. They are a lot cheaper than any other tip. They last a long time. They are longer than the 357 mag. so they protect more of the arrow. I bought 500 of them a few years ago when they were easy to get. A lifetime supply for archery and if I ever want to mess with a Maximum I already have some brass.

[Salmoneye]

This guy has a few plinking loads for the .357 Max:

http://www.reloadammo.com/357max.htm

[Mohillbilly]

Or load your favorite 357/38 Spec. in max cases and use the AOL of those loads as a guide for seating depth in Max cases . That may make them look like Nagant loads Or wad cutter loads where the slug is entirely inside of the case

[FatherTime]

Better late than never , eh? My answer is 6.6 gr. of Win 231 [or HP 38] behind a 158 gr copper plated bullet. Fired by a small rifle primer [Rem 7 1/2 BR] in a 357 Max case, this nets 1075 fps [chrono] from my 10" Contender. Soft, easy, & accurate. For comparison, this load produces 405 ft/lbs of energy. Enjoy.

[Groo]

Groo here
Trail Boss to the bottom of the bullet.

[fourarmed]

My Ruger shot very well out to about 150 yds using Lyman's 358429. I don't recall the powder charge, but it was probably one of the 4227s.

[P Flados]

And here is yet another answer to a question from long ago.

I did IHMSA years ago. In recent years, I have put a lot of effort into working up cast loads that would do "just as good or better" than my old J Word stuff.

Recently I had a breakthrough with the new Lee 200 (PC and checkless) for my Ram loads. Full pop and "just as good or better" (under 3 moa) as my old Speer.

However, back in the day, I also had a great 146 gr half jacket "chicken/pig load". It was hotter than was needed but it shot great.

While I was searching for the Ram load, I found that getting a good chicken/pig load was a lot easier.

With the right details, I did pretty good with Lee 150s and anywhere from 5.3 to 6.0 grs of Promo (red dot equivalent).

Then I bought a six cavity Lee 158 tumble lube mold. With 158 PC booltis anywhere from 5.5 to 7.0 grs of Promo works fine.

For both my Dan Wesson and my 10" TC, I get best results with max brass. Mag brass is not nearly as good and Special brass is even worse.

Before I got my Promo, I was getting similar results using 700x. When my 700x got low, I went shopping and found that the big 8# jug of Promo was a bargain (glad I got it before this stuff "evaporated" during the shortage).

The fast flake powders are really great for light pistol loads. The only drawback is that metering can be an issue. For example, in my 357 magnum guns, I can get great results with as low as 3.0 grs of promo in Special Cases using a scale. However, the flakes just do not seem to meter for small charges, Say around 4.5 grs is good and the father I go below that the worse it gets. I still load 3.2 gr 38 Special loads straight from the measure, I just know that that I am loosing a little consistency in the powder charges.

[BigboreShooter]

I use the rcbs 150k cast bullet and 5grs of unique for 900fps and 2 inch groups @ 50yds. All in a maximum case, out of 10" Contender.

BigBoreShooter