KCSO
08-20-2013, 12:04 PM
Once again I have a SAA clone in the shop for barrel leading issues. I took one look and knew what the problem was. The forcing cone was so rough it was actualy stepped. It had more annular rings than a sequoia! Usually you can clean these up without turning the barrel back in a thread and this was the case here. I prefer an 11 degree cone for cast bullets and there was enough meat in the barrel to clean up most of the rough spots with a light reaming. You have to be carefull not to open up the end of the forcing cone any you do't want an oversized funnel. I finish with a brass lap charged with 250 grit to start and i finish with 400 grit for a forcing cone that shines like a nickel on a goats rear end. I then used JB's to lightly lap the barrel and the same loads now shoot clean with no leading in 100 rounds.
Brownell's sells the forcing cone cutters and you can get a kit with the guides and shafts but I made my own rather than spen the extra. My rod is 1/4" rod threaded 10-32 on one end and fitted with a tap wrench on the other end. The guides are cut from scrap brass to center the end of the rod in the muzzle end of the bore and if you cut the threads in the lathe the cutter should center within .001 at the breech end. The polished forcing cone is also the cats behind for shooting wax bullets as you don't have to clean near as often.
Brownell's sells the forcing cone cutters and you can get a kit with the guides and shafts but I made my own rather than spen the extra. My rod is 1/4" rod threaded 10-32 on one end and fitted with a tap wrench on the other end. The guides are cut from scrap brass to center the end of the rod in the muzzle end of the bore and if you cut the threads in the lathe the cutter should center within .001 at the breech end. The polished forcing cone is also the cats behind for shooting wax bullets as you don't have to clean near as often.