Harbor freight mini cut off saw for cutting 300 blackout

[turmech]

I bought the harbor freight mini cut off saw and the cleaver jig (sold hear by a member) for the initial cutting of 223 brass in the first step in converting to 300 blackout. The jig worked perfectly, the saw I got not so good. The saw from the beginning did not sound real smooth on start up. I started cutting brass and after 30 or so it started laboring. At around 70 the saw stopped in mid cut. Once the saw cooled it will run again. I was not forcing the blade into the cases. This was the first run for the new saw and blade. I was cutting less than 10 per minute ( way less then some report doing) more like 6 or 7 per minute. I know the harbor freight tools in general are junk. The cleaver jig made for use with the saw was what made me want the whole set up to start with. And again nothing wrong with the jig. It works perfect as it was designed.

For the guys using the set up are my results with the saw typical of your results? Or did I just get a bad one? If you are having success with your particular saw how long have you used it? How many do you cut in one session?

Sorry for so many questions, but I am just trying to deiced if it is worth ordering another saw and/or paying for return shipping to send it back for replacement. I have no store close to me. The saw is cheap I know (less than $30 with shipping on sale) I just can't justify that for less than 100 pieces of brass. The brass I was cutting was PMC head stamp so nothing out of the way there I can think of.

[GRUMPA]

I don't know when you bought the saw but call customer service and speak with them. I had a bad switch in mine and they replaced it free of charge. I typically get around 60-70k cuts with those El-Cheapo saws but not the blades and go through about 6 per year.

[vonzep]

You got a bad saw. There is a 90 day return on them. You should get 10,000 EASY on a saw maybe 60,000.

[27judge]

I just bought one and used it to cut 300 500 S&W mags down to 500 JRH worked great. I did have to replace the drive belt ( 1.85 ) and ordered 3 more spares, Now Im looking at cutting some 300 blackouts pretty good little saw for the price tks KEN

[turmech]

Yea, I mostly think I just got a bad one. I seem to be unlucky when it comes to things like that.

I received the saw about a week ago. I cut a few just to get the jig set up for the right length. I noticed when I received it something about the packing gave me the impression it may have been a return to start with. I can't remember what exactly gave me that impression.

The saw cooled and works again but will start to get warm around 40 to 50 cuts. It appears you can shut if off let it cool and cut some more. To the guys using them does this sound like a dull blade? Based off my initial thought of this being a return I am starting to think maybe some one used it, cleaned it up and returned it with a dull blade.

[GRUMPA]

It sounds like something else to me and not a return, I don't think they ask for it back if it's bad, didn't happen to me and others I know of. And for all you other guys out there that use them. I get loose belts all the time, I flip them inside out so the teeth are now on the outside and the smooth part is now on the pulleys. I never replace the belt, the motor goes first on all the ones I've used and mainly the bearings sound like death warmed over.

EDIT....I do them at a rate of at least 20 per minute when I get in the groove, just make sure the blade is on right. If I can't do just over 1k per hour I get upset and with the jig it's capable of doing that many and more.

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

I've made 1000+ cuts with mine...still cuts and sounds just like new. You got a bad one.

[vonzep]

I get about 100:1 jigs sold to person w a problem saw. Not too bad, the saws are $22 right now.

[bangerjim]

I have 3 of those saws in my different shops. They do NOT work on brass screws or thin wall tubing. They ALL bind and stall every time. There is no set to the cheeeep non-standard slitting saws they sell for it. It works fine with soft brass barstock, wood, and plastic. Not so good on steel either.

I have good QUALITY AMERICAN-MADE slitting saws I use with my milling machines and they work VERY well! And that saw has tons of RPM's but absolutely ZERO HP!

Those blades HF sells are crapola. There are MUCH better mini-saws on the market with more HP, standard mounting holes (allowing use of standard saws), and better accuracy. If you plan on doing a lot of cut-off work in the miniature world.......do a search for one.

Keep the HF thing for cutting off wood dowels and brass barstock like I do.

bangerjim

[vonzep]

I have 3 of those saws in my different shops. They do NOT work on brass screws or thin wall tubing. They ALL bind and stall every time. There is no set to the cheeeep non-standard slitting saws they sell for it. It works fine with soft brass barstock, wood, and plastic. Not so good on steel either.

I have good QUALITY AMERICAN-MADE slitting saws I use with my milling machines and they work VERY well! And that saw has tons of RPM's but absolutely ZERO HP!

Those blades HF sells are crapola. There are MUCH better mini-saws on the market with more HP, standard mounting holes (allowing use of standard saws), and better accuracy. If you plan on doing a lot of cut-off work in the miniature world.......do a search for one.

Keep the HF thing for cutting off wood dowels and brass barstock like I do.

bangerjim


Banger, You are partially correct. There are thousands of people using the HF saws successfully on cutting brass for blackout.


There are better saws for long term use but for a guy who like the poster wants to reload blackout, 60,000 cuts for $22 is damn hard to beat.

[Jailer]

Pull the left side cover off and check the belt and pulley's. I had a set screw back out on one of my pulleys and the gear walked into the cover causing it to labor as you have described.

[mac60]

Pull the left side cover off and check the belt and pulley's. I had a set screw back out on one of my pulleys and the gear walked into the cover causing it to labor as you have described.

I had the exact same problem with mine.

[vonzep]

The 2 most common problems are the loose belt and the blade installed backwards.

[turmech]

I called Harbor Freight today. If I understood the girl on the phone correctly (her accent and my draw did not link up just perfect) they are sending a new saw and a return postage paid label. I am fighting the urge to disassemble and inspect it this very moment.
:popcorn:

[GRUMPA]

Jailer brings up a good point that's happened to me more than once. The tight SOB that I am drilled and tapped the next size larger and put in a larger set screw which cured that headache, I just take them off and put them on the new saw when the time comes.

Although I do have the dreaded belt issues the bearings are generally the first to go. One day when I feel ambitious I'll tale one apart and see if I can't replace them with better ones.

[Jailer]

turmech that cover on the left side just slides straight up to take it off. I'd check it to see if that indeed is your problem.

[turmech]

Curiosity got the best of me and I did remove the two covers which just slide off. I did not see any rubbing or a loose/damaged belt. Those covers were easier to remove than I thought they would be. I would have guessed I would need to at the vary least remove some screws to access the blade, pulleys and belt. Not that screws would be a problem, but they want the saw sent back and are sending a return postage paid label for the old saw. I can't see how that is cost effective for them, but what do I know. I did not want then to some how be able to tell I had took anything apart. The covers as they are designed don't allow for that. I had seen in the past on other things break away taps on plastic parts which let the factory now if it had been disassembled which was my initial hesitation to remove any panels.

[Dark Helmet]

My first one didn't get through 50 Hornady basic magnum brass:???:

[Sasquatch-1]

I'm surprised they want the old one back. I bought one about 2 years ago and when I tried to use it the blade slipped. I called their customer service (I agree with the heavy accent) and they said they would ship out a new one. I asked if they wanted the old one returned and they said no. I guess the shipping was more then the cost of producing the saw.

BTW, found a simple fix. I added a washer on the arbor(?) and the blade stopped slipping. Now I have 2 saws.

[Rowdy Rick]

New here, just bought one of the Harbor freight saws and I see reference to a "cleaver jig" ..........anyone have further information on where I might locate one of these? Thanks!

[turmech]

New here, just bought one of the Harbor freight saws and I see reference to a "cleaver jig" ..........anyone have further information on where I might locate one of these? Thanks!

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?208348-TCM22-7-62x25-7-62x40WT-blackout-conversion-jigs

[Rowdy Rick]

Thanks!

[Sasquatch-1]

Check out post 19 in the following thread. I use to use the Harour Freight saw till I discovered this method. There are also several other jigs pictured here.

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?217058-Trimming-Jig


New here, just bought one of the Harbor freight saws and I see reference to a "cleaver jig" ..........anyone have further information on where I might locate one of these? Thanks!

[Newtire]

Check out post 19 in the following thread. I use to use the Harour Freight saw till I discovered this method. There are also several other jigs pictured here.

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?217058-Trimming-JigLooks like a dead link...

[Sasquatch-1]

I just tried it and it worked fine for me.


Looks like a dead link...