Straightening a hickory wood dowel

[ggb3]

Good morning y'all,
I purchased two, 3/8 - 44" hickory wood dowels the other day and got them in. One seems reasonably true, the other, bowed a bit around the middle. If I lay it on a flat surface and rotate, one end rises about 1/2 to 3/4 inch. I figure a damp towel, iron, and some weight + a flat surface; just wanted to see what y'all thought the best way to straighten it would be.

Good day,
George

[fishhawk]

Use a dowel for a ramrod at your own risk have seen many cut dowels fracture when running a ball down due the the grain running out and a couple go into shooters hands. Strait grain split rods the only way to go for your safety.

[Toymaker]

A++ Fishhawk. For a ram rod you want the grain to run the full length. A dowel is a chunk of wood that's been pushed through a cutter so you have NO idea how the grain runs. I've seen more than one ram rod break while loading. Unfortunately one was right next to me and the splintered shaft went through the guy's hand. I quit the competition that day because I had the shakes so bad.
On the range use a good range rod. A good stainless steel rod with a protector.
They make synthetic rods that look like wood and will fit the holders under the barrel.
If you insist on a wood rod, use split wood (hickory is best). It won't be round, but it doesn't need to be and old ones weren't. Then soak it in kerosene or fuel oil. That will make it very flexible.

[451 Pete]

I have to agree with fishhawk 100% on this. Having a rod split on you can ruin a great day ... to say nothing about what it can do to your hand. If the rods you got were made as ram rods and are straight grained I personally don't like them to be completely straight. That little bow in the middle will help the rod stay in the under thimbles a bit better. I also soak them in kerosene in a plastic pipe also for a week or so before using. This sort of lubricates the fiber in the wood and helps the rod remain more flexible.

Pete

[mooman76]

I agree with everyone here 100%. I wood ramrods for basically al my MLs to keep them real but I use a range rod for them all. I think you could figure out a way to straighten it but I think it will eventually just warp back. If it isn't too bad just put it together and stick it in your gun and keep it there. It way straighten some from the gun holding it there. If you still want a wooden one to use(some still do and sware by them) get one from a good muzzle loading supply place. They have them with the straight grain that shouldn't break.

[waksupi]

I've been known to purposely put a small bend in ramrods. I like mine to fit the thimbles loosely, so they don't get stuck in wet weather. The bend keeps it in place.

The chance of split ramrods is the reason we eliminated all speed shooting type competitions in this area. That is the time some pilgrim will grip the ramrod high above the muzzle to push a load down quickly. I've seen two cases in years past, of broken ramrods completely through the hand of the shooter.
I'm also against the use of range rods. If using one, put a blinder on it, so it can't be shot by accident. Seen that several times, too. If you have a proper patch and ball combination, no need for a spare ramrod.

Go to the American Long Rifle site, and look for Dennis Glasner. He sells good split hickory ramrods.

[Fly]

I never use wood ram rods.Mine I make from aluim or brass.I carry mine in a small quiver
I made just for that, on my back.Mine also have handles.It works for me.

Fly

[ggb3]

This is a cleaning rod with a jag on the end. Any ideas on the best way to straighten out a slight bend that will be persistent?
Thanks

[fishhawk]

Well I don't believe a small crook in a wiping rod is going to hurt a thing just use it as it is.

[Maven]

Do as Waksupi says, but spell Dennis' last name GLAZENER.

[fouronesix]

Usually not worth the effort to attempt to straighten and the results aren't predictable. Check for grain run out. The first thing I do getting a rod ready is to take some 100-150 grit or so sandpaper on a sanding block and put a slight taper on the rod- that way it will not swell and stick in the pipes or stock hole. Next I dress and round off an end or add a seating jag. The jag is pinned to the rod so it won't come off. I use small section of nail, counter sink each side of the jag so the pin can be peened into the counter sinks. I then soak the rod in diesel or kerosene for 3-4 weeks- 1/2" plugged PVC tube works well. There are two schools on soaking- some like to soak- some don't.

I do use a range rod. Either a smooth steel rod (most all military muskets come with one) or a regular heavy cleaning rod like a Dewey with a handle.

I enjoy watching the so called "in crowd" of ML shooters who show up at the range or at shoots with over-length ramrods sticking out 10-12" in front of their muzzleloaders- especially on the longrifles. One or two will show up one week then all the "groupies" will have similar, grossly over-length rods sticking out the next week. :mrgreen: Kind of looks like a bunch of M88 Trapdoors with rod bayonets pulled out. :roll:

[Boerrancher]

This is a cleaning rod with a jag on the end. Any ideas on the best way to straighten out a slight bend that will be persistent?
Thanks

I can tell you how I straighten my wooden arrow shafts and it may or may not work for your rod. First get yourself a piece of wood 1/4 inch thick and about 2 inches wide. It needs to be between 8 and 10 inches long. The harder the wood the better, but if you don't wish to make your own and are familiar with construction sites a piece of grade stake will do. Once you have your piece of wood drill a hole in it just large enough for the rod to pass through.

What you are going to do next is heat the bent area over a fire. DO NOT CHAR IT!!! Apply the heat evenly to a small area all the way around the rod. Have a glass of warm water ready and when the rod is hot in the area you wish to straighten apply a drop of water to the area and insert the rod into the tool you made. Continue to heat the wet area and use the tool to start bending the shaft straight. Straighten a little area at a time and keep the area where you are straightening hot and moist. For a long bend it will take awhile. Also keep your tool as close to the area you wish to straighten.

Once an area is straight continue to apply heat to it until it is dry before moving on to the next crooked area. This can be a time consuming process until you get on to it. I can straighten a crooked arrow shaft in a few minutes with some pretty bad kinks in it this way, but I have been doing it for close to 40 years.

Best wishes,

Joe

[ggb3]

Thanks for the replies. I always understood to avoid petroleum distillates on wood, what does soaking it do, soften? What is the intended outcome of soaking? I intended to sand, epoxy and pin the jag and then coat with tung oil. However, I have not done anything yet and can certainly do an alternative to my "plan"..

Thanks again,
George

[Jeff Michel]

If you have a vaporizer or a tea kettle, place your ramrod in an appropriate length of PVC pipe 1 1/2 diameter with clean out caps. You will need to fabricate a tube or hood wherein you are able to direct the steam into the pipe, preferably in the middle. Let it steam for about half an hour, uncap and the rod should be extremely flexible. If not return it for another half hour. While it's steaming, prepare a jig to secure the rod while it dry's. A piece if 1018 angle will work fine, clamp it in place and lean it in the corner for a couple days while it dries. Once dry, seal the pores, (I use amber shellac) and apply with your favorite finish.
Jeff Michel

[waksupi]

I used to do the kerosene soak years ago. I found it evaporates away after some time, and needs re-soaking occasionally. What I have been using the past few years, is bear oil. It will completely soak through a ramrod, and stay in the wood. If no bear oil is available, raccoon, skunk oil, or lard are the next best for penetrating wood. They all act the same. It used to be said that a single drop of coon oil on a buffalo robe,would eventually spread to soak the entire hide.

[ggb3]

Well, thanks again for this latest excellent info. Although the wiping rod probably would not be any worse with the slight bend, the bigger reason for doing this and asking the question is for me to learn different ways of working with things. For this, I learned several different ways of doing this and, something I can adapt to other projects. Thanks again Boerrancher, Jeff, and Waksupi.

[Junior1942]

A few years ago I broke the wooden ramrod on one of my 50 caliber rifles while trying to seat a stubborn conical bullet. The part of the ramrod which stayed in the barrel and which poked out several inches was pointed like an arrowhead. Somehow the point didn't enter my hand. Clean living, I suppose. It could have easily went in one side of my right hand and came out the other side. Since that day, there's been no wooden ramrods in my house. Well, there's one in my Lyman Plains Pistol, but it's only about 9" long and stiff.

[Hanshi]

Dowels are a no-no as the others have posted. A crooked rod, however, is no disadvantage and the bend helps them stay in the thimbles.