B+M Visible powder measure

[Bret4207]

Just loaded 12 6.5x 57 for my "Worlds Ugliest Rifle (altered and sporterized ) Model Perfect ,Guide Quality 6.5 Jap x257 Roberts". Why 12? 'Cuz I only have 12 cases, thats why! I used the B+M powder measure for the first time too. Took a look at the Hornady Manual, selected my load, checked the B+M manual and set the tube for 41.0 gr 4350. My RCBS scale says the tube was dead on for 3 tries! I guess 1930's tech is good enough for me.

The only thing I found is that you really have to snug that sucker down. It wants to move around on me. Not as fast as my Redding, but it seems just as accurate. Plus, it's kinda neat seeing the powder fill the reservoir:mrgreen:.

[Pepe Ray]

Wouldn't a lead pellet under the screw keep the "set" you make?
Also , How large is the B/M manual? I've never seen one.
TIA, Pepe Ray

[Ringer]

I keep a pair of pliers next to the measure, and when I get my setting, I tighten the knob just a little past finger tight, and it holds for me without scarring the stem. Regards, Ringer

[Nueces]

I'll betcha Bret is talking about how the measure itself will move around on the mounting point if the clamp is not grunted down real good. That return spring is muy macho, and the actuating lever is sorta long, tends to twist the whole thing on the mount.

Here's a link to a photo on Buffalo Arms: http://www.buffaloarms.com/browse.cfm/4,3969.htm

Mark

[Bret4207]

Bingo! Nueces has it right. The whole measure wants to slide around. I'll eventually some to some sort of more permanent set up. The thing sure works good.

[BD]

Yeah, the mounting issue is kind of a drawback. I traced mine onto the bench top and then routed out a "pocket" for it about an 1/8 inch deep to keep it from twisting. With the real long grain powders like the RL series and Varget you can't beat a B&M for consistency. I've found it to be as accurate as trickling individual charges and much faster.
BD

[newfoundlander]

I'm a HUGE fan of the Belding & Mull powder measure. I have three measures and five drop tubes. I really only need one but they're just so damn cool I had to have all three hoppers (brass, plastic aluminum). As manufactured each of the three "types" dispenses powder with equal spooky accuracy.

Not being able to leave well enough alone I set out to see if replacing the stock heavy spring with a lighter one would make the unit easier to use and determine what affect such an alteration might have on accuracy. I tested several ball, flake and stick powders with two progressively lighter spings and found there was no change in accuracy whatsoever. The measure was less prone to wander under pressure even when dispensing heavy stick powders. The results were the same when I got rid of the spring altogether. Stick powders were a little more resistant. However if you maintain a firm grip on the handle and place your thumb on the outside edge just behind the pivot screw and follow through smoothly without any jerking there should be no hesitation/bridging.
http://www.imagehost.ca/is.php?i=16997&img=mull1.jpg

I was under the impression that the spring was there to help with the more stubborn extruded powders but that didn't seem to be the case. Due to events which transpired during my tests I believe the spring to be more of a fail safe device. There's a point along the reservoir's range of movement where its hopper and drop aperatures are both partially open. If left in this postition with no drop tube in place the measure will empty its contents and that of the hopper's onto your floor VERY fast.:oops:
http://www.imagehost.ca/is.php?i=16998&img=mull2.JPG

[Bret4207]

Wouldn't a lead pellet under the screw keep the "set" you make?
Also , How large is the B/M manual? I've never seen one.
TIA, Pepe Ray

Sorry I missed the manual question Pepe- Check Ebay for anything under Belding or B+M in the hunting section. Eventually you'll find the manual. It's about the size of the old Lyman manuals. More advertising than Lymans. The listings for the powder measure could be scanned and copied to Castpics I suppose, if I had a scanner....

[BD]

Hi Ray,
I have two B&Ms and there may be a manual in one of the boxes. I never really looked at the manual as it's obvious how the measure works. If it's not too many pages I could scan it in at work.

Bret- routing a shallow outline of the measure has worked real well for me. You do have to keep it shallow as the lever does not have much clearance above the bench top. I also had to route a pocket for the mounting screw to seat into as my bench was too thick to fit between the screw cap and the base. I tried mounting it to one of the shelves above the bench but that was a real PITA, especially when using a drop tube.
BD

[Pepe Ray]

Thanks BD. But the question was prompted only by casual interest. I'v never had a problem w/my B-M. I wondered if they included a table showing different powder charges vs. the scale on drop tube. Lyman did this for there powder dropper and I sometimes use it to short cut my set ups.
As to anchoring the B-M, The screw that holds the lever can be replaced with a longer one that protrudes thru the bench top/shelf, and nutted or not.
Just be sure to release the lock screw before removing the hinge screw. [smilie=1:Pepe Ray

[floodgate]

Pepe Ray:

B & M issued a whole range of manuals from about 1923-24 well up into the 1980's, in a variety of formats. The earliest ones were clipped-together collections of their advertising and instruction brochures, and you can get an example fro, Abbybooks at <www.cornellubs.com>. Next (1933 to the late 1950's) were a series much like the Ideal Handbooks and in similar format. Last were basically jobbers' catalogs, with only a few B & M items, in 8-1/2" x 11" size. Cornell may have also reprinted some of these. PM me with your postal address and I can send copies of a couple of their charts for the VPM from the middle series.

If you have the "micrometer" variety drop tube with the calibrated rotating flange, there's a trick to reading them - they go from 1 to 25 points around on one index, and then jump to the next full index on the bar, unlike a standard micrometer which goes around four times (four times 0.001" = 0.1") between full one-tenth inch indexes. (If this sounds confused, try it - with an empty measure - and see what I am trying to say.)

floodgate

[WBH]

I am also a big fan of the B&M powder measure. I have 7 of them, and have taken to reconditioning others for friends and family. The use mine exclusivley for BP. The torqueing problem has always been an issue with the design and the long handle. As well as the glass crackinf at the screw hold-down points. I now use plastic "windows" on the ones I replace.

[Newtire]

Thanks BD. But the question was prompted only by casual interest. I'v never had a problem w/my B-M. I wondered if they included a table showing different powder charges vs. the scale on drop tube. Lyman did this for there powder dropper and I sometimes use it to short cut my set ups.
As to anchoring the B-M, The screw that holds the lever can be replaced with a longer one that protrudes thru the bench top/shelf, and nutted or not.
Just be sure to release the lock screw before removing the hinge screw. [smilie=1:Pepe Ray

Hi Pepe,

I got a manual with mine that I bought from madcaster. The powders they list are mostly obsolete thugh. I would be glad to send you one but my computer is running on 2 cylinders right now and everytime I put it under a load (like doing anything with pictures) it locks up. I have a hard drive I installed but it doesn't have the internet cable hookup installed yet so I will send you one as soon as I get that done unless someone else beats me to it. I think that thing is the best measure I have ever seen.

[22cf45]

Thanks for the information concerning the stout spring, Newfoundlander. I have often given thought to replacing it with a lighter spring and wondered what affect that might have if any.
Phil

[Pepe Ray]

floodgate;
From your description, I conclude that the type you described is not like mine. I guess that, as newtire said, the powders are mostly obsolete. I'm probably better off taking the time to do my own calibration with current powders.
Sure do thank you guys for your generous offers.
Pepe Ray

[Bret4207]

The manual covers stuff like Bullseye, Unique, some of the older IMR series, and of course stuff long obsolete like 1208, Sharpshooter, and No. 80. Still usefull. As I think about it, there's probably a way to corelate the B+M tubes with the Lee dipper listings, especially the yellow "cc." version. The right math formula would allow you to use Lees listing since it's a volumetric listing and that's how the B+M works, if you follow.

I do know that when the B+M manual said 41.0 gr 4350 was "25" on the tube it was dead on. Sure makes things quicker.

[Pepe Ray]

Great idea!
Thanks for that Bret. I've got the Lees and I'm all set.
Thanks again.
Pepe Ray

[threett1]

I use mine for black powder only too. Just seems right. Awesome measure. Found a manual from back in the 30s. Love that kind of stuff in my library.