Powder Coating 101 - Electrostatic Method

[bangerjim]

Not a tongue in cheek request - several have asked if it would contaminate or mess up the meat. Can't see how it could but? Your the first to report.

I seriously doubt PC would be worse than Pb!!!!!!!!!

I do not hunt and will never ingest any, but would think PC coatings are inert.

Others........please share results and findings!

banger

[bangerjim]

Hey Popper, Banger and anyone else who has an opinion.
I've been very happy PC'ing and shooting a couple thousand 45acps. Alloy and type of PC doesn't seem to be too critical on these pistol rounds.
I'm probably going to start casting and PC'ing for 7.62 x 39. I intend to keep speeds around 2,100fps.
Any suggestions on whether I'll need gas checks with the PC? How about alloy suggestions with PC?
Thanks much.

I can only recommend sticking to Cu GC's on the slugs that are designed for them at the higher velocities. I use GC's on my 223's and 30's, although I believe several on here have tried coating the end with PC in place of a GC.

I will let others chime in on that.

Good shooting!

banger

[freebullet]

I'm purty sure I ate some hf powder coat the first time I used it, I'm still here for now.

[Love Life]

Not a tongue in cheek request - several have asked if it would contaminate or mess up the meat. Can't see how it could but? Your the first to report.

I asked that same question awhile back concerning HT coating. The response was "Probably no worse than the stuff in grease lubes." Made sense to me.

[Balta]

And ,my first NO LUBE GROVE mold is here..Made by MP Molds.Can you imagine a casting and not using a wooden mallet or stick? Bullets just pop out from this mold when opened..Its a 9 mm 135 grain ,359 diameter.some pic
8808888089880908809188092

[xacex]

Balta, Is that the 359-125 with just the lube groove bored out? If this was not a big problem for Mihec to do I think it would be great if it shoots well. I cant wait for reports!
Like I mentioned in the group buy the 380 boolit is next, and would make a good candidate for this if we can tag it in with that group buy.

[Balta]

If i understand Mihec s correctly ,yes this is 359-125 ,but cutted in 6 cav aluminium and then removed lube groves..Sunday is my next range day so i will post some results.I did shoot epoxy coated bullets without lube grove before and it was great,thats reason i order i mold without lube groves.Much easier to work also

[felix]

There is absolutely NO reason all molds shouldn't drop boolits as soon as the handle is opened. Folks like the way boolits look WAY more than the way they shoot. It's no different for houses we live in. Every sharp corner/angle costs something big time, such as boolit production time or actual money in the housing case. ... felix

[HATCH]

Most of the time there is a burr in the mold or a very sharp edge.

I am gonna spend this winter going over all my molds with a magnifying glass

[Balta]

Balta - looks like my 9mm 130 gr. but I made the LG 0.010" and no crimp groove. Casts & shoots great. Working on a 30 cal with single LG more like a shallow CG, smaller dia nose for PC of course.

Wich 9 mm 130 gr mold ,popper?

[Russel Nash]

What are you guys using to make gas checks (out of aluminum soda cans)?

[Russel Nash]

maybe one of the distributors for Cardinal Paint is near you:

http://www.cardinalpaint.com/a_img/PowderBrochure.pdf

try to save you some money versus Powder Buy The Pound.

[fcvan]

Russell Nash, I make 30 cal checks using Amerimax Aluminum flashing. My Lee C309-155 2R likes 68006 which is supposed to be .0092 thick but measures closer to .0105 thick. The roll is 6" x 50' which makes a lot of checks. When I need thicker checks (smaller shank on boolit) I use 68104 which is .014 thick, 4" x 50' in length. My plain based CheckMakers (35 and 45 cal) uses soda can which measures about .004 thick. I have one mold that I use likes slightly thicker than .004 and so I use 66006 which is .0078 thick, 6" x 50'. I was using a lot of plain based checks until I started powder coating boolits for 9mm and 45. I still use PB checks for some powder coating boolits for use in .357 loads. Personally, I think that checks aren't needed as PCd boolits are performing quite well without checks. But, a shiny aluminum check on a flat black PCd Boolit looks really cool.

[Russel Nash]

Thanks!

I do have some flashing somewhere. I'll have to check to make sure it is aluminun.

I still haven't bought a .30 cal mould yet.

[Maximumbob54]

What are you guys using to make gas checks (out of aluminum soda cans)?

I think that only works for plain base molds. If your mold is for gas checks then you need to try the various thickness of roof flashing to see what works for you.

[Mbedwell1971]

Powder coated my first bullets today. Easier than I thought it would be. From opening my HF gun and black and Decker toaster oven to my first batch of PC bullets was about 45 minutes. These are some 135gr 9mm from an NOE mould. http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/12/27/yqerety9.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/12/27/eny8a6a8.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/12/27/yvysy7y6.jpg

[Beagle333]

Awesome! I just got that mold in HP and am going to try it out tomorrow. :-D
Good looking boolits..... now that you got the technique down, you can load up that pan!
Happy Shooting!

[el34]

Wow you must have been well prepared with knowledge, looks like you were able to skip right over the guessing part. Really nice, those loaded rounds look like decorative pieces on a glossy piece of furniture.

[bangerjim]

Excellent! nice looking work. Glad you went the ES gun process right off. You will NOT be sorry. I crank out hundreds of perfect slugs EVERY time I spray the powder in. So many try to do it on the cheap with liquids and tumbling. I have never seen pictures of any of those methods that even come close to yours or mine!!!!!!! The gun is only $59 -25%.........not much to spend at all.....for perfect boolits in large quantities.

Keep up the good work!

bangerjim

[Mbedwell1971]

I agree that this is the best method. I have spent the last week reading as much info as I could find on PCing to get ready. Now I will work on larger batches. I cast a bunch of 150gr 40 S&W HP tonight that I am going to coat tomorrow.

[Beagle333]

I played with the ES gun today a bit. Here's some 45-270SAA slugs done in Terra Cotta color.
http://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt214/shutupandjump/PowderCoating/PC-101025_zpsabf1ab92.jpg

http://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt214/shutupandjump/PowderCoating/PC-101027_zpsbeabf469.jpg

[el34]

I played with the ES gun today a bit. http://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt214/shutupandjump/PowderCoating/PC-101025_zpsabf1ab92.jpg

Cool Beagle! Two-tone PC, glossy silver with terra cotta in the loob grooves!

[Beagle333]

You like it? :wink:

I want to do some side-by-side testing..... CR vs ESPC.
http://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt214/shutupandjump/PowderCoating/PC-101029_zps354e376e.jpg

http://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt214/shutupandjump/PowderCoating/PC-101031_zps3da8ce65.jpg

[C. Latch]

You like it? :wink:

I want to do some side-by-side testing..... CR vs ESPC.

I don't shoot much during the winter (if I'm away from the house, it's to hunt) but I loaded up 6 rounds tonight with a PC'ed Lee 358-158 (once-fired federal brass, tula SPP, 14.0 of N110) and 6 rounds with the same bullet lubed with alox and beeswax.

Hoping to shoot them side by side tomorrow or sometime soon.

If it was summer I'd try to load 30 rounds of each and do a statistically meaningful test, but this should give a clue, at least.

[JASON4X4]

I think you will be happy with your test. I didn't notice any issues.

[C. Latch]

I think you will be happy with your test. I didn't notice any issues.

Was very Unpleased with my .45 colt test in the thread I started the other day. Very curious how this will go.

[Mbedwell1971]

Just returned from the range. have attached photos of my targets. I shot 5 shot groups of factory FMJs, conventional lube lead, and Powder coated 9mm. The lead and the PCs were loaded over 4.3gr of HP-38. My best group was from the PC bullets. These were all from 15yds. http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/12/28/a7anesep.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/12/28/u7e9u6yq.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/12/28/e6e9abu6.jpg

[bangerjim]

That is good evidence!!!!!!!!!! I am seeing the same, as many others are.

Thanks for taking the time to photo & post.

banger

[C. Latch]

I shot the aforementioned 357's today at 25 yards. Six of the alox/beeswax bullets went into 3.1" or so. Six with red HF PC went into 1.8" or so, and the latter group was more center-dense; had I measure mean radius (more meaningful that total group size) it would have been close to .6" or .7". The former was probably 1.2" or so. Not conclusive, but very promising.

Also, earlier in another thread I mentioned that my .45 Colt PC'ed ammo showed a drop in velocity (~1020 when I was expecting ~1150) so I loaded up some more - same bullet, but a softer alloy, and a much firmer crimp. I shot four rounds over the chronograph, they averaged ~1135'. That is MUCH better. I strongly suspect that slow-burning powders will require more crimp for PC than conventional lube as a general rule, though obviously one little test doesn't prove that.

[kryogen]

I am looking at PC and hi-tek. What would be the advantage of PC over hi-tek?

[KYShooter73]

I am looking at PC and hi-tek. What would be the advantage of PC over hi-tek?

With ES spray, you only need one coat and one bake vs two or three with hi-tek and other PC methods. Plus, they look better.

[dverna]

kryogen,

Hi-Tek has proven itself on millions of pistol bullets. It is easy to do and does not require standing the bullets up to coat or bake them. It is what I would use if starting out with coatings for pistol and low velocity rifle bullets.

PC seems to a better option for high velocities - but very few people have achieved good accuracy (under 2 moa) with PC'ed bullets at velocities of 2200 fps or greater.

I assume by your post count you are a new caster. Unless you do a lot of pistol shooting, and need high production rates, I think you will be better off with a luberizer. If you are not going to cast for rifles and want high production rates, Hi-Tek will be faster if you do it right. Look as posts by Ausglock, Gunoil.

I DO NOT use either method but have followed the threads and that is what I base my suggestions on. I have no horse in this race. In my particular case, I see little to no advantages with either system and use my current equipment. IMHO, PC'ing seems of most interest only because I want to drive cast rifle bullets at over 2500 fps and I suspect current Hi_Tek formulations cannot achieve that with accuracy. Hi-Tek has been used for a long time in Australia and none of the folks down there have reported rifle results of interest - so far.

Don Verna

[bangerjim]

I am looking at PC and hi-tek. What would be the advantage of PC over hi-tek?

Time......time.......and money!

As stated many times........one spray coat and one bake session......that's all!

Head's up................HF has their black, red, and white powders on sale for $3.99/#. I cleaned the shelves of my local store yesterday! Yellow does not cover lead anyway.

banger

[kryogen]

No hf in quebec, will have to check locally. Probably way higher prices.
Plus i would need the gun, and then the mess all over the garage with powder?

[bangerjim]

No hf in quebec, will have to check locally. Probably way higher prices.
Plus i would need the gun, and then the mess all over the garage with powder?

If you are operating the gun correctly, there is VERY little over spray or mess! That is the whole idea of electrostatic attraction. The powder goes where YOU want it and no where else.

These guys that make elaborate "powder recovery system" and spray booths are not operating the thing right.

After I spray 200 or so slugs, there is just a very light coat of powder on my WorkMate. I do it outside and there is no mess at all. All the powder is where it is supposed to be...........either on the slugs or the NS foil.

"it's all in how you hold your mouth!"

banger

[Maximumbob54]

OK, I'm breaking down and going to finally give the spray gun a try. I know to buy the HF kit but what cheap compressor would be best for just this. I don't need it for anything else so this would be it's soul use. Can I get away with the cheap $60 1/3 hp 3 gal pancake or do I need larger? I want to start out doing this right. Actually if anyone wants to be a real superstar and post up a harbor freight shopping list of what is needed I would greatly appreciate it and I bet others might as well.

[C. Latch]

3 gallons of air is doable but not optimal.

[Beagle333]

OK, I'm breaking down and going to finally give the spray gun a try.
C'mon in, Bob. The water's fine. :twisted:

http://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt214/shutupandjump/PowderCoating/collage004_zps62199491.jpg

[Maximumbob54]

Yeah, those are the kinds of pics that have been killing me.

Is there an optimal size tank to run from? I didn't think I would need that much. I'm sure i will need more if i sucker into a larger oven to be able to coat more at a time but for now I'm still toastering along.

[Beagle333]

Well, this is my setup... it's way too much compressor, but I already had it. 8-)

http://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt214/shutupandjump/PowderCoating/setup_zps5187f2e3.jpg

[Maximumbob54]

So this one should be plenty good for this???

http://www.harborfreight.com/2-horsepower-8-gal-125-psi-portable-air-compressor-68740.html

[jcameron996]

So this one should be plenty good for this???

http://www.harborfreight.com/2-horsepower-8-gal-125-psi-portable-air-compressor-68740.html
I would think that would be plenty of compressor. I use the small compressor from harbor freight meant for air nailers and its smaller than that.

[C. Latch]

Latch - I think the 3 gal would work if you leave it running and use a low pressure reg. I use a 50 gal husky but the 2nd reg is either malfunctioning or a bleeder type reg. Bleeds the tank pressure down to wherever the reg is set.
Beagle - you have some of the most unusual mould I've ever seen, colors too.

I *think* my tank is 3 gallons. I'll check this afternoon and report back. I can coat 2/3 of a tray of bullets before the compressor kicks on and usually can finish the tray without getting so low on air that I have to wait for the compressor to run.

I live in a duplex apartment at the moment so I am hyper-conscious of my air compressor running; it's one of those little bitty ones and is as loud as can be.

[kryogen]

anyone knows there they would sell that in canada?

[Faret]

Latch - I think the 3 gal would work if you leave it running and use a low pressure reg. I use a 50 gal husky but the 2nd reg is either malfunctioning or a bleeder type reg. Bleeds the tank pressure down to wherever the reg is set.
Beagle - you have some of the most unusual mould I've ever seen, colors too.

Check and make sure that is is installed the right way. There should be arrows showing the flow path.

[freebullet]

You may be able to get away with an airbrush compressor (maybe cheaper hf sell them), with how little air pressure this is done at. You would need to find out how many cfm is required.

[bangerjim]

OK, I'm breaking down and going to finally give the spray gun a try. I know to buy the HF kit but what cheap compressor would be best for just this. I don't need it for anything else so this would be it's soul use. Can I get away with the cheap $60 1/3 hp 3 gal pancake or do I need larger? I want to start out doing this right. Actually if anyone wants to be a real superstar and post up a harbor freight shopping list of what is needed I would greatly appreciate it and I bet others might as well.

In my back shop I use a little cheepee 3gal pancake unit from HF. It cranks up to 120# and with the little HF regulator set at ~10#, it does just fine. Runs ever few minutes of spraying, but has more than enough "oomph" to get 'er done! I have it plumbed into a little shop air system so I can use air inside or out.

I have a dual lung C-H in my big shop with a 60 gal tank, 3 HP motor, and HUGE CFM capacity, but you do NOT need that to do this simple spary operation!

banger

[bangerjim]

You may be able to get away with an airbrush compressor (maybe cheaper hf sell them), with how little air pressure this is done at. You would need to find out how many cfm is required.

I have tried the HF and other VERY expensive air brush compressors and they do NOT have the pressure and more importantly the capacity to run the gun.

banger

[fcvan]

I have a Harbor Freight 2.5 hp 8 gallon compressor that is compressor that is 11 years old. Never loan your stuff to a buddy that doesn't drain the tank or the bottom with rust out. Anyway, I have the compressor set to 30 psi, and the gun regulator on the lowest setting. This is giving me optimal coating.

The leaking tank has just recently gotten to where the compressor doesn't shut off but will maintain 30 psi. Before my next coating/painting I will be disconnecting the bad tank and replacing with another tank.

I think I can actually get good coating with less than 30 psi using a line regulator and switching to some aquarium tubing as suggested in a previous post. I just need to get the reducer fitting as I have the tubing.

Home Depot periodically has a smaller 1 hp compressor with a 2 gallon tank that may be enough to get the job done. I've seen that unit on sale for $35 at times and even bought one for my brother. I will try his before I buy another one and if it works I may get one just to dedicate to PCd boolits. For now, having the compressor in the garage and spraying on the back porch is working fine.

In the new shop the wife built for me, I will be hard plumbing the lines and installing a 110 outlet close to the work. I spray and bake outdoors and use a Workmate as a portable work surface. I'm digging this whole powder coat thing and my weapons love black beauties!

[bangerjim]

I have a Harbor Freight 2.5 hp 8 gallon compressor that is compressor that is 11 years old. Never loan your stuff to a buddy that doesn't drain the tank or the bottom with rust out. Anyway, I have the compressor set to 30 psi, and the gun regulator on the lowest setting. This is giving me optimal coating.

The leaking tank has just recently gotten to where the compressor doesn't shut off but will maintain 30 psi. Before my next coating/painting I will be disconnecting the bad tank and replacing with another tank.

I think I can actually get good coating with less than 30 psi using a line regulator and switching to some aquarium tubing as suggested in a previous post. I just need to get the reducer fitting as I have the tubing.

Home Depot periodically has a smaller 1 hp compressor with a 2 gallon tank that may be enough to get the job done. I've seen that unit on sale for $35 at times and even bought one for my brother. I will try his before I buy another one and if it works I may get one just to dedicate to PCd boolits. For now, having the compressor in the garage and spraying on the back porch is working fine.

In the new shop the wife built for me, I will be hard plumbing the lines and installing a 110 outlet close to the work. I spray and bake outdoors and use a Workmate as a portable work surface. I'm digging this whole powder coat thing and my weapons love black beauties!

That aquarium line was my idea. I use it with great success by setting the little HF reg (located at the electronics box) at ~20#. That way I get sufficient flow at about 12# at the gun. (you know, line loss and all that scientific stuff!).

Have fun!

banger

[el34]

I got a HP 6gal 1.5hp compressor when I started PC. It does a great job but isn't overkill or large, also just right for tires-

http://www.harborfreight.com/2-horsepower-6-gallon-150-psi-oilless-pancake-compressor-67696.html

It comes on when tank pressure falls below 100psi but there's plenty of air in the tank for uninterrupted use.

I put a small regulator right at the air input to the gun to regulate 8-10psi at the point of use, rather than at the supply side of a hose-

http://www.harborfreight.com/14-mini-air-regulator-with-gauge-68226.html

I took off the bracket and used a coupler. It's true the low pressure PC works at is at the bottom of the scale but it still allows good adjustment and the knob locks in position after tweaking. It is visible in these pics-

92563 92564

[Maximumbob54]

Phase one is now complete. The gear has been purchased. Now I need to put everything together and also glue down some hex nuts to a tray.

[el34]

Phase one is now complete. The gear has been purchased. Now I need to put everything together and also glue down some hex nuts to a tray.

Groovy!

[fcvan]

Jim, thanks for the tips and hints. I definitely think having the thinner tubing will make the gun less unwieldy. Personally, I'm not having too much trouble applying the powder. I'm not using a lazy Susan but am using a plastic jar lid so the tray is elevated and I can easily turn to coat from all angles.

Less powder at less pressure is giving me more even coating and way less overspray than my first efforts. That first time I got a glob/clump dump out of my gun I just shook my head. Then I dumped over the boolits, swept up the powder from the bottom of my spray booth, reset the boolits and coated them again.

Fancy cardboard spray booth, fancy $1.49 paintbrush for reclaiming the powder, fancy $20 oven for baking. Gotta love the simplicity of the whole PCd boolits thing.

[Beagle333]

More playing with ESPC. I did a couple/three hundred of these today. They are soft too.... just one COWW ingot (2-3#) in a 20# pot of stick-on WW.
Here's the boolits:
http://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt214/shutupandjump/cast%20boolits/NYE011_zps72b1d6f0.jpg

The color varies because I don't dump out the cup when I add a different powder. And I don't shake the cup, so some get lots of the old colors and some get all new color.
http://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt214/shutupandjump/PowderCoating/135001_zps307c790c.jpg

A closer look:
http://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt214/shutupandjump/PowderCoating/135004_zps9938be34.jpg

It's mostly HF red, but there is still remnants of dark blue, dark green, zombie green and others in there. I kinda like it. 8-)
http://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt214/shutupandjump/PowderCoating/135003_zps11f38117.jpg

[Oreo]

I like the speckled look. Pretty cool.

[el34]

Beagle, you're a factory.

[Tech2]

Here is my HF list
92688
Definitely skip the 1/4" yellow coiled hose 20' try 4' unless you tie it to a truck.
I splurged for the the upgraded regulator
It takes very little air to run the gun almost anything should keep up.

[grumman581]

So this one should be plenty good for this???

http://www.harborfreight.com/2-horsepower-8-gal-125-psi-portable-air-compressor-68740.html

According to the manual on the Harbor Freight powder coating system, you need 3.5 CFM @ 30 psi. That compressor would be sufficient.

http://manuals.harborfreight.com/manuals/94000-94999/94244.pdf

Now, from a practical standpoint, the CFM @ psi rating of the compressor is only important if you are going to be continuously operating it. How long does it take to coat a tray of bullets? If not so long that you don't run out of air in the air tank, then while you are curing that tray of bullets, the compressor could be refilling the tank. It might even be possible to coat a tray of bullets with just the air in a portable air tank that you refill from your shop compressor as needed.

[Maximumbob54]

I made a tray with the hex nuts JB welded down and will throw foil over it:

http://i1176.photobucket.com/albums/x333/Maximumbob54/Reloading%20and%20Casting/IMG_20140104_134040578_zpsmgqqkp3q.jpg (http://s1176.photobucket.com/user/Maximumbob54/media/Reloading%20and%20Casting/IMG_20140104_134040578_zpsmgqqkp3q.jpg.html)

And I have twenty pounds cast up to be martyrs for the cause of learning:

http://i1176.photobucket.com/albums/x333/Maximumbob54/Reloading%20and%20Casting/IMG_20140104_210657268_zpswkanqxhx.jpg (http://s1176.photobucket.com/user/Maximumbob54/media/Reloading%20and%20Casting/IMG_20140104_210657268_zpswkanqxhx.jpg.html)

I bought the kit with all the fittings and adapters that came with the coiled yellow hose and I already hate that hose. But the kit was worth it all the same.

[C. Latch]

FWIW I can't find the size rating on my compressor. It's a C-H from walmart.

I want to coat some more bullets but I've already coated everything I had cast. Maybe this afternoon. Gonna run to the hardware store if I get a chance. When I coat with the bases sitting flat on my foil, some of the base-fin breaks off unevenly in my sizer, leaving the very base unevenly coated. It may not hurt anything but can't help.

[C. Latch]

Also, I bought the extra HF regulator but haven't installed it yet, so while it may be nice, it isn't absolutely necessary; I have been able to regulate pressure well enough with the regulator on my tank. YMMV.

[Maximumbob54]

First SNAFU:

It really helps to pay attention to what you are doing. Like dialing down the pressure at the regulator before connecting the gun. I just blew apart the moisture separator. I hope I didn't just ruin the gun. It's my own fault though. Dang it.

[gds]

First SNAFU:

It really helps to pay attention to what you are doing. Like dialing down the pressure at the regulator before connecting the gun. I just blew apart the moisture separator. I hope I didn't just ruin the gun. It's my own fault though. Dang it.

Lol i did the same thing a few weeks ago.

[Beagle333]

I haven't done that, but I did wonder what part would give first. 8-)


(It's only a matter of time..... :wink:)

[Maximumbob54]

At least the replacement is less than three bucks.

[merlin101]

So this one should be plenty good for this???

http://www.harborfreight.com/2-horsepower-8-gal-125-psi-portable-air-compressor-68740.html

I have the same compressor at my camp, I needed something portable and tried it. I used it to run a a frameing nail gun and then 2 roofing nailers, WORKED GREAT! The 2 guns had it running alot but it held in there and I believe would be just fine for PC. I've had the PC stuff now for years and just never got around to trying it. I do know it uses very little air pressure.

[bangerjim]

I made a tray with the hex nuts JB welded down and will throw foil over it:

http://i1176.photobucket.com/albums/x333/Maximumbob54/Reloading%20and%20Casting/IMG_20140104_134040578_zpsmgqqkp3q.jpg (http://s1176.photobucket.com/user/Maximumbob54/media/Reloading%20and%20Casting/IMG_20140104_134040578_zpsmgqqkp3q.jpg.html)

And I have twenty pounds cast up to be martyrs for the cause of learning:

http://i1176.photobucket.com/albums/x333/Maximumbob54/Reloading%20and%20Casting/IMG_20140104_210657268_zpswkanqxhx.jpg (http://s1176.photobucket.com/user/Maximumbob54/media/Reloading%20and%20Casting/IMG_20140104_210657268_zpswkanqxhx.jpg.html)

I bought the kit with all the fittings and adapters that came with the coiled yellow hose and I already hate that hose. But the kit was worth it all the same.

Use the aquarium airline tubing like I have recommended so many times. Put in in some of that split plastic wire wrap HF sells along with the gun wire. Makes it a whole bunch easier! You only hve one hose to the gun to fight that way!!!!!!

Just increase your reg pressure about 5-7# to compensate for the flow restriction of the small tubing.

banger

[Maximumbob54]

Before I modify anything I'm trying to figure out the adjustments. The gun has the small dial adjust right in the handle and that seems to help. I set the compressor regulator at 25# as it doesn't want to do anything less than that anyways and I don't want to max out the pressure and slip passed 30# and blow up the gun again. The original moisture separator didn't say anything that I could find but the new one says max PSI is 70#.

BUT...

I'm not getting even spray to save my life. It puffs out one second and is hardly there the next. I can ease the pressure up but is that the problem?

[Maximumbob54]

First stumble in the learning process... The sheet metal is plenty strong and hardly bows when picked up with the weight of the bullets on it. But it does slightly bow and bullets balancing on hex nuts glide right across non stick foil. Go figure. I need to do something to brace the sheet metal so it is solid enough to not bend at all. And the rack of freshly sprayed bullets needs to be right next to the oven or as close as possible to not risk bullets falling over or sliding. I need to find a way of mounting small handles on each side to pick it up careful enough to not tilt it at all. And then it needs to be easy enough to slide into the oven. Enough about the stupid rack...

Second stumble in the learning process... The spray gun is rated at 10 - 30 PSI and with the regulator set at 25# I had some intermittent flow issues. One second it was coating too thick and then not at all. This first batch isn't going to be perfect but once again this is the learning phase. It may just be the pressure being lost from the tank to the gun and the gun isn't really getting 25# to work with. I will dial up the pressure to 30# next time. But enough talking, we want pictures of results, right???

This is them freshly sprayed:
http://i1176.photobucket.com/albums/x333/Maximumbob54/Reloading%20and%20Casting/IMG_20140105_122828589_zpsfzgzwsuc.jpg (http://s1176.photobucket.com/user/Maximumbob54/media/Reloading%20and%20Casting/IMG_20140105_122828589_zpsfzgzwsuc.jpg.html)

I wore a dust mask and that isn't going to cut it. I need to open the garage door and buy a real mask before I do this again. This stuff really hangs in the air. Once I get the powder flow just right there will be less waste but this time there was a red cloud. Yuck.

This is them fresh from the oven:
http://i1176.photobucket.com/albums/x333/Maximumbob54/Reloading%20and%20Casting/IMG_20140105_131357915_zpsksoefgbx.jpg (http://s1176.photobucket.com/user/Maximumbob54/media/Reloading%20and%20Casting/IMG_20140105_131357915_zpsksoefgbx.jpg.html)

It's already a night and day difference in the quality of coating. They lose the dull sheen and it's finally a glossy coating. They feel so much more slick to the touch. With this method the bases aren't coated or at least not with this tray but I'm not worried about that. I'm just in this to avoid bullet lube and bullet lube smoke. The cleaner bore is just an added bonus. The low cost of the HF powder is what drew me back to this and the much better results with the ES spray gun is what made me break down and try this method. I know with this first trial run I used way more powder than I should have but I know I will get better at it and use less. That's the only way I will really be able to tell about cost effectiveness of this method for sure. I also need to try this method with rifle bullets since the finish is so much more even than any other method including the epoxy paint tumble. But for this being the very first trial run I still think these look awesome enough that I will continue to work at this.

This would be the reason for the hex nuts. This one fell off the nut and sat on the tray with the excess powder:
http://i1176.photobucket.com/albums/x333/Maximumbob54/Reloading%20and%20Casting/IMG_20140105_133416290_zpsnnkiqrbz.jpg (http://s1176.photobucket.com/user/Maximumbob54/media/Reloading%20and%20Casting/IMG_20140105_133416290_zpsnnkiqrbz.jpg.html)

This is a dry tumble vs. ES comparison with the ES in front:
http://i1176.photobucket.com/albums/x333/Maximumbob54/Reloading%20and%20Casting/IMG_20140105_133111889_zpsjayi8ky2.jpg (http://s1176.photobucket.com/user/Maximumbob54/media/Reloading%20and%20Casting/IMG_20140105_133111889_zpsjayi8ky2.jpg.html)

I cannot express enough how good these look and feel compared to anything else I've tried so far. The finish comes out so perfect!!!

http://i1176.photobucket.com/albums/x333/Maximumbob54/Reloading%20and%20Casting/IMG_20140105_133202898_zpspkjtnzzm.jpg (http://s1176.photobucket.com/user/Maximumbob54/media/Reloading%20and%20Casting/IMG_20140105_133202898_zpspkjtnzzm.jpg.html)

[bangerjim]

First stumble in the learning process... The sheet metal is plenty strong and hardly bows when picked up with the weight of the bullets on it. But it does slightly bow and bullets balancing on hex nuts glide right across non stick foil. Go figure. I need to do something to brace the sheet metal so it is solid enough to not bend at all. And the rack of freshly sprayed bullets needs to be right next to the oven or as close as possible to not risk bullets falling over or sliding. I need to find a way of mounting small handles on each side to pick it up careful enough to not tilt it at all. And then it needs to be easy enough to slide into the oven. Enough about the stupid rack...

Second stumble in the learning process... The spray gun is rated at 10 - 30 PSI and with the regulator set at 25# I had some intermittent flow issues. One second it was coating too thick and then not at all. This first batch isn't going to be perfect but once again this is the learning phase. It may just be the pressure being lost from the tank to the gun and the gun isn't really getting 25# to work with. I will dial up the pressure to 30# next time. But enough talking, we want pictures of results, right???

This is them freshly sprayed:
http://i1176.photobucket.com/albums/x333/Maximumbob54/Reloading%20and%20Casting/IMG_20140105_122828589_zpsfzgzwsuc.jpg (http://s1176.photobucket.com/user/Maximumbob54/media/Reloading%20and%20Casting/IMG_20140105_122828589_zpsfzgzwsuc.jpg.html)

I wore a dust mask and that isn't going to cut it. I need to open the garage door and buy a real mask before I do this again. This stuff really hangs in the air. Once I get the powder flow just right there will be less waste but this time there was a red cloud. Yuck.

This is them fresh from the oven:
http://i1176.photobucket.com/albums/x333/Maximumbob54/Reloading%20and%20Casting/IMG_20140105_131357915_zpsksoefgbx.jpg (http://s1176.photobucket.com/user/Maximumbob54/media/Reloading%20and%20Casting/IMG_20140105_131357915_zpsksoefgbx.jpg.html)

It's already a night and day difference in the quality of coating. They lose the dull sheen and it's finally a glossy coating. They feel so much more slick to the touch. With this method the bases aren't coated or at least not with this tray but I'm not worried about that. I'm just in this to avoid bullet lube and bullet lube smoke. The cleaner bore is just an added bonus. The low cost of the HF powder is what drew me back to this and the much better results with the ES spray gun is what made me break down and try this method. I know with this first trial run I used way more powder than I should have but I know I will get better at it and use less. That's the only way I will really be able to tell about cost effectiveness of this method for sure. I also need to try this method with rifle bullets since the finish is so much more even than any other method including the epoxy paint tumble. But for this being the very first trial run I still think these look awesome enough that I will continue to work at this.

This would be the reason for the hex nuts. This one fell off the nut and sat on the tray with the excess powder:
http://i1176.photobucket.com/albums/x333/Maximumbob54/Reloading%20and%20Casting/IMG_20140105_133416290_zpsnnkiqrbz.jpg (http://s1176.photobucket.com/user/Maximumbob54/media/Reloading%20and%20Casting/IMG_20140105_133416290_zpsnnkiqrbz.jpg.html)

This is a dry tumble vs. ES comparison with the ES in front:
http://i1176.photobucket.com/albums/x333/Maximumbob54/Reloading%20and%20Casting/IMG_20140105_133111889_zpsjayi8ky2.jpg (http://s1176.photobucket.com/user/Maximumbob54/media/Reloading%20and%20Casting/IMG_20140105_133111889_zpsjayi8ky2.jpg.html)

I cannot express enough how good these look and feel compared to anything else I've tried so far. The finish comes out so perfect!!!

http://i1176.photobucket.com/albums/x333/Maximumbob54/Reloading%20and%20Casting/IMG_20140105_133202898_zpspkjtnzzm.jpg (http://s1176.photobucket.com/user/Maximumbob54/media/Reloading%20and%20Casting/IMG_20140105_133202898_zpspkjtnzzm.jpg.html)



You are getting a LOT of overspray in that picture above. I get hardly any. Mabe a light coat (<1/8 tsp) on the Workmate after spraying 6-7 batches.

A trick to keep the flow going:

1. do NOT use a full bottle on the gun. Pour ONLY about 2 inches of powder in the bottle that came with the gun.
2. As you are spraying keep tapping/bumping the bottle against your palm to keep the powder in there stirred up. Remember you are crating a fluidized bed in the bottle, so you need to keep it "liquid" at all times.
3. The powder flow out the gun should be a light mist, not a heavy dense flow! Control that by reg pressure and the brass FLOW control knob on the gun. The tapping above will allow you to run lower pressures.

Your coats look just like mine do every time ......PEFECT! I have not had any luck with the dry fumble method. Thin coats, multiple coat/bake process, lumps and flat spots where the slugs lay on the oven rack lead me Everytime to the ES gun method. It only takes me a couple minutes or less to get the rig out and be coating boolits! About the time it takes the little HF compressor to charge up to 125#.

I have been using lately the fender washer method as shared with another member. The GC shanks fit perfectly in the holes in the correct washer and the NS foil prevents the powder from getting to the washers. You do NOT need to glue the washers down. At ~$11/100.....not a bad method for 223 and 30 cal GC's

Keep up the good work!!!!!!!!!! :drinks:

banger

[sparky45]

Fantastic first try with the ES Gun Bob.

[Beagle333]

Excellent coating Bob! I keep about 1-1/2" of powder in the gun, I definitely agree no more than 2", it has to fly around in there and make it up to the hooked tube. Like Banger, I also use the tapping or a quick flip occasionally from one side to the other to keep the powder fluffed up. You might also try varying the tip, or not even using it. I find a better flow with no dispersion tip on the electrode. You should not see a "fogging up" of the area, I can barely see the paint coming out, if at all. I just notice the boolits turning color as I move slowly down the row, like weedeating a fence line. If they stop turning from lead-colored to paint color as I pass, I'll tap or flip the jar to get it stirred up again.

Again, great looking boolits!!!!:drinks:

[slim1836]

Bangerjim,

Where did you get those "fender washers"? I drilled 19/64 holes in a homemade tray, covered w/non stick foil, and ok with the results. May want to try your washers out. 92715

Slim

[Maximumbob54]

The over spray and fog cloud came from the powder not flowing and then flooding out. I only put an inch in the cup and I think the pressure may have been too low. Next time I will both add more powder and slightly increase the pressure. But I'm still glad I joined this club. I forget who it was that was saying they look like candy bullets but they were right.

[el34]

Bob, I'll bet you're right on schedule with the short learning curve thing.

+1 on 1.5 - 2" powder.
+1 on tapping and reduced pressure.

Just after spraying I set my tray on the grate that slides into the oven to minimize the distance traveled while bowed. Haven't done it yet but I plan to add stiffeners someday.

Them's are great lookin' boolits! Good job! :drinks: Kinda fun eh?

[bangerjim]

Bangerjim,

Where did you get those "fender washers"? I drilled 19/64 holes in a homemade tray, covered w/non stick foil, and ok with the results. May want to try your washers out. 92715

Slim

Home Despot or Lowe's has them in 100 count boxes. MUCH cheaper than buying them in those stupid little plastic bags! Big Ace stores should have them also, but probably at a higher $$.

My HD has them for ~$11 a box.

You can also use standard washers but will have to glue them down as they are much smaller OD and will be much too close to allow to get the boolits in there! I just put the fenders back-to-back and cover the Al sheet then press NS foil over the whole mess to hold them in place.

banger

[Beagle333]

The fender washer method.... illustrated:
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?224624-Coating-GC-rifle-boolits-specifically-30-cal:-D

[slim1836]

Bangerjim,

I got Lowes 1.5 miles from me, will pick some up.

Thanks,

Slim

[Maximumbob54]

Think I will try that trick as well.

[Tech2]

Maxbob I suspect that your high voltage isn't working very well.
I used my dads gun and it made a mess like you have there. I bought my own and it worked drastically better.
Same techniques you describe.
Differences were mostly temperature teens vs 40's on mine.
Same red jar of HF powder. Same foil, same tray.
My gun sparks with ease and the yellow box has a hum.
His didn't hum and it never sparked but I didn't try to make it either.
Mine draws everything to the tinfoil and boolits. almost nothing hits the table.

Some form of standoff washer/nut is probably a good idea. My 308's fall over with ease and some of my 9's get a ring around the bottom that makes them difficult to start in the shell.
I just put powder under my first batch.

[el34]

Tech2 might be onto something. Bob, any chance you didn't hook up the ground clip or forgot the foot pedal? It can happen, I speaketh from experience. I see the cloud, I know what I forgot.

My gun sparks about an inch, inch and a half, maybe a good test of the HV generator.

[Beagle333]

+1 on an inch and a half. 'Scares the heck out of me every time I get too close. I'm all bent over it close and focused on getting a nice even coat, but not too thick, and BZZTTT! :-D

[Tech2]

He has the ground clamp on you can see it in the picture.
The foot pedal now that is a different question.
92809

[Maximumbob54]

I'm stepping on the foot pedal only while I'm spraying but I'm mindful to step on it a second before I spray and stop spraying before I step off. However, now that it has been said, my box does not hum. The red light turns green when I step on the pedal. A second issue may be that I have it plugged into an extension cord. I didn't figure that it would need much current and it's not that long of a cord. I'm out of outlets at the end of the garage but I guess I can unplug the freezer for the few minutes I need to spray. That might change things if I'm direct in the wall. I will try that later.

[Faret]

Maybe check the fuse?

[Beagle333]

A second issue may be that I have it plugged into an extension cord. I didn't figure that it would need much current and it's not that long of a cord.

I doubt that's it. I use mine on a 100' cord and it's fine.
You might not have any problem with it.... does it arc about an inch+ from the electrode to a boolit when you get too close? If so... all is well. 8-)

[el34]

I'd go for the spark test, that's the bottom line indicator.
Maybe to the foil so you don't electrocute boolits.

[Maximumbob54]

Sparky spark spark. Bigger zap than I was expecting. Made me jump.

[bangerjim]

The fender washer method.... illustrated:
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?224624-Coating-GC-rifle-boolits-specifically-30-cal:-D


Kudos to you, sir! I just could not remember who posted the idea or where but I, for one, like it!

Thanks for posting it!

banger

[bangerjim]

Sparky spark spark. Bigger zap than I was expecting. Made me jump.

Where are you? Humidity can change gun performance a lot. Also make sure you have DRY air. That stupid little black plastic turd on the gun was the 1st thing I took off! Worthless. If you have humid climate, put a dryer at the compressor. Here in AZ humidity is always low! Don't even need it.

I always clip onto the FOIL not the rack. Even so, the electrostatic potential generated by the electronics will take care of any small gaps you have!

I have NEVER heard my box hum. It draws very little current. Specs list a 0.5A fuse (500W)! You could run this on a lamp cord extension cord with no problems.

bangerjim

[el34]

Specs list a 0.5A fuse (500W)! bangerjim

You plug into a 1000v source???

Hey banger, have you discovered a washer that will work for 225GC yet?

[bangerjim]

Heh.........I said I could spell......I didn't say I could type!!!!!!!! HA.......ha.

Typing on this iPad bluetooth keyboard on my lap sometimes is a bear. It has a mind of it's own.

asdfsf.gsdgdfggerer werr er sgsdfgd wryouipilu l lfho

WHA????????????????????

The washers I bought at my local Home Depot for 223's and 30's are thick enough to allow the GC's to fit in almost all the way up to the neck on the GC. From what I have heard on the other thread, those do vary from area to area at HD's.

Just take a sample boolit with you and check them out. I have some of those thin ones in my shop stash!

banger

[Maximumbob54]

Humidity? Ummmm... I live in Florida. Guess I need to look up a dryer.

[el34]

Just take a sample boolit with you and check them out. banger

But isn't that too easy?
Thanks for the sanity moment.

[Maximumbob54]

Lee's H&G 68 copy:

http://i1176.photobucket.com/albums/x333/Maximumbob54/Reloading%20and%20Casting/IMG_20140107_203641727_zpsqazganwc.jpg (http://s1176.photobucket.com/user/Maximumbob54/media/Reloading%20and%20Casting/IMG_20140107_203641727_zpsqazganwc.jpg.html)

Made a few of them last night but it was too chilly to keep going.

[fishboy]

And ,my first NO LUBE GROVE mold is here..Made by MP Molds.Can you imagine a casting and not using a wooden mallet or stick? Bullets just pop out from this mold when opened..Its a 9 mm 135 grain ,359 diameter.some pic
8808888089880908809188092

Balta!!! Where did you go? What happened at the range? I am very interested in seeing the results of the no lube grove PC boolits.

Greg

[Oreo]

Me too. Especially since I just had Eric @ hollowpointmolds.com remove the lube grooves from one of my 10mm WFN Miha molds. I haven't had a chance to coat/load/shoot any of them yet.

[fishboy]

Alright Oreo, you are officially the one to watch now. Lol. Looking forward to your results.

Greg

[Oreo]

Don't wait on me. I'm sloooow going. Here I designed this boolit, honchoed the gb, got the mold, and now two years later I still haven't loaded or fired a single cast boolit. I'm aiming to test these in the spring. My wife is also due to deliver our second child in June so anything could happen.

[MacFan]

Gonna shoot some PC clear 7.62's tomorrow (GC'd).
The clear bakes at only 340 degrees for 10 minutes.
I'll let you know how it works.
Bought from- http://www.ebay.com/itm/271031342489?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

93122

[Maximumbob54]

Those look so good it almost looks like you are fibbing!!!!

[grumman581]

I have encountered a gun range that would not allow me to shoot my reloads since they were not jacketed. The main reason that I'm considered going with the powder coating is so that I don't have to purchase jacketed bullets for places like that. My solution to their restriction was to put a couple of boxes of factory jacketed on top and then my actual reloads on the bottom of the ammo can that I brought to the range with me.

As such, I do not think a clear powder coat would be acceptable. I'll initially start out with a black powder coat and maybe one of these days try mixing colors to see how close to a copper jacketed look I can achieve.

[WallyM3]

Styrene modelers use gold to duplicate the "copper" of bullets. The choice is, in part, governed by the scale effect, but also on available colors.

[MacFan]

I needed clear for another non-gun project so I figured I'd coat up a few dozen bullets to see how they work. Clear has two advantages I see for some shooters, a rather low baking temp to preserve lead hardness and no pigments if you're worried about barrel wear.
I'm not concerned about either from the shooting of PC'd bullets that I've done.
Use PC that suits your situation.
I wouldn't support a range that restrictive.

[Maximumbob54]

You could use a copper colored powder coating.

[grumman581]

grumman - which range is that?

It was in Las Vegas. I had one range officer say that you couldn't shoot plain lead and another tell me you could. At least that is better than one range over there that only allows frangible bullets to be shot.

[bangerjim]

You could use a copper colored powder coating.

I have done about 300 rounds of 45 cal slugs that were 1st matte black coated and then sprayed them with one coat of VHT high temp copper from the auto store. You bake those at 250 for about 25 minutes. The VHT really sticks to the matte finish because there are "teeth" to grab on that are not on the gloss coats. You can spray just about ANY color quality epoxy paints and bake them on the matte. The PC gives you the protections. The paint is just for looks, but is will not fingernail or scrape off.

banger

[Beagle333]

I sprayed some 358156 today. They turned out really well.
http://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt214/shutupandjump/PowderCoating/360156009_zps53b8f2c3.jpg

And then, I was starting another tray, and the neighbor's kid was squirrel hunting along the fenceline between us, about 100' away from where I was casting and spraying today, and he shot a squirrel right as I was putting a tray in the oven... so I jumped and knocked them all off the nuts. So, not wanting to spray em all again, I dumped the whole pile of em and the powder into a butter tub and dry tumbled em. I dumped them out and fished the boolits out of the powder with needlenose and stood them on some non-stick foil. They came out a little bare in spots, so I repeated it. The second time, they coated fairly complete and I do believe that they would be fine to shoot. They look just like the ones I was making when I was Piglet coating (wet tumble), which shot well.
http://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt214/shutupandjump/PowderCoating/360156012_zpsba26df93.jpg

And here they are next to the ESPC ones. Sprayed is on left, tumbled on right.
http://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt214/shutupandjump/PowderCoating/360156015_zpsbab4c133.jpg

Both will shoot just fine.... but I do think I'll stick with ES most of the time. 8-)

They're speckled 'cause I just added HF red to whatever little bit of dark blue and light green that was left in the jar.
http://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt214/shutupandjump/PowderCoating/360156009a_zpsb45edc8a.jpg

[Beagle333]

I got a new mold Saturday, the RCBS 38-162-SWC. The boolits look kinda bland though.
http://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt214/shutupandjump/cast%20boolits/360156005_zpsb9a3b1e3.jpg


I think they look so much better all dressed up, with a nice polyester jacket and shiny new shoes.
http://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt214/shutupandjump/PowderCoating/rcbs001_zps0723919f.jpg
On this particular one, the GC shank was just a little loose on the bare boolits, so it worked out perfectly to coat the whole thing, then add the check. That's darn handy! 8-)

[C. Latch]

I spent some time casting yesterday but it's raining today and I can't do any PC until the rain stops. :(

[smokesahoy]

Beagle did you get a chance to run that CR vs PC test yet?

[Beagle333]

Yes, I did that just today. :Fire: The .45LC wasn't very conclusive, only 4 fps difference in the average of 12 rounds of each, with the CR lubed being the 4fps faster. I guess maybe the slow (750fps) SAA loads aren't that influenced with such a heavy boolit?

But the .357 was 44 fps faster (again, 12 rounds each) with lube than PC. I was getting 1354 with CR lube and 1310 with PC.

That isn't a lot of difference.:-D
And I cleaned the gun between tests, so there was no lube influence left when I shot the PC. I selected all same-weight boolits and kept powder charges exact, and also used the same die immediately in succession to ensure the same crimp.

[Balta]

Balta!!! Where did you go? What happened at the range? I am very interested in seeing the results of the no lube grove PC boolits.

Greg
Well didnt have same special report,there work great,great accuracy,function,no special dirt in barrel...Also this mold will be soon avaible from MP Molds in 135 grain BB and 125 FB
94141

[C. Latch]

That isn't a lot of difference.:-D.


For plinking a little velocity is a non-issue. For hunting, if PC will stay within 50' or so of conventional lubes, I'll be happy with it. That's nothing a smidge more powder can't fix.

The bullet I want to hunt with needs a certain velocity to stabilize and shoot well; whatever load I settle on has to be just above that floor, with enough room to spare on cold days, but without going any higher due to recoil issues. It would be nice if I could hit that narrow window with the same charge weight regardless of whether I was using PC or conventional lubes. I figure that folks loading hollowpoints for self-defense will have similar criteria they use to judge their PC loads.

[C. Latch]

Well didnt have same special report,there work great,great accuracy,function,no special dirt in barrel...Also this mold will be soon avaible from MP Molds in 135 grain BB and 125 FB
94141




I wonder what the first non-grooved PC-specific group buy bullet mold will be?

:grin:

[RP]

I got a ? I preheat my stove and it holds the temp at 400 with no problem. I spray my bullets and stack them on my cooking tray and slide them in the oven. I read on the bottle HF to cook for 20 mins after the PC starts to shows glossing or a shine. The thing is my temp drops when I add the bullets and stays down almost until the time is up. Now they pass the smash test and wonder if I need to cook longer or just not worry about it.

[Beagle333]

I'm baking mine 20 total.
Some have said they are going 10 and that's it.
Several of the guys are doing the 20 mins after gloss like you said, too.
I guess it's just whatever works with your oven.

I preheat to 400. I haven't tested the temp after I put them in. I just set it for 20 mins and go do something else. Mine makes an unpleasant smell when baking and I assume it's probably not good to breathe.

[C. Latch]

Now they pass the smash test.

I'd let that be the answer to my question.

FWIW I mixed some HF black with my HF red and it took longer for them to 'cook'. I just left them until they turned glossy, then cut the oven off and let them cool. After a few minutes of cooling I sacrificed one bullet for destruction testing and it passed.

[BretJ]

Well didnt have same special report,there work great,great accuracy,function,no special dirt in barrel...Also this mold will be soon avaible from MP Molds in 135 grain BB and 125 FB
94141

I know it has been mentioned before but we should really avoid using blue powdercoat. If a round gets left behind for some reason or another, someone could mistake it for a sim round if they had little experience with them. Blue is internationally known as inert/practice as far as ordnance goes. Just sayin'

[sparky45]

I'm baking mine 20 total.
Some have said they are going 10 and that's it.
Several of the guys are doing the 20 mins after gloss like you said, too.
I guess it's just whatever works with your oven.

I preheat to 400. I haven't tested the temp after I put them in. I just set it for 20 mins and go do something else. Mine makes an unpleasant smell when baking and I assume it's probably not good to breathe.

Broccoli doesn't smell very good cooking, but I do like eating it though.:grin:

[bangerjim]

10 min is the time I have found that works! Saves you time and electricity. I can do TWICE the number of slugs at that rate. All pass hammer test.......the REAL story!

But do what you feel best. Most all commercial powders out there are rated 10 @ 400. I have no idea why HF came up with those funky non-standard directions. Mabe there is no word for "10" in Chinese??????? HA....ha.

ALWAYS use a preheated to 400 oven. And make sure you are using a convection NOT a standard oven. Conv spreads heat more evenly with the fan and provides a perfect bake. Standard ones have severe hot spots. Conv ovens do cost more.......but what is your potential lack of frustration with poor boolits worth?????

Most inexpensive ovens do NOT have any accuracy in temp control. Get an IR temp gun at HF for ~$24 and shoot the boolits in the oven. My high-end convection oven is right on and maintains setting well. The $3 cheepee junk store oven I started out with (non-convection) had hot spots over the elements (sagging boolits) and cold spots in the middle and sides (340F) when set at 400. In the trash with that one!

Have fun coating!

banger

[xacex]

I know it has been mentioned before but we should really avoid using blue powdercoat. If a round gets left behind for some reason or another, someone could mistake it for a sim round if they had little experience with them. Blue is internationally known as inert/practice as far as ordnance goes. Just sayin'

Common sense tell you not to pick up a round off of the ground that is not yours and shooting it. You never know if is a dud, or a uber hot, blow up your gun load.

Anyone picking up an unknown round off of a bench, or ground and shooting it at someone thinking it is a marker deserves what they have coming. Just sayin...

[WallyM3]

There are all blue live rounds, too. See:http://www.warriortalk.com/showthread.php?97435-308-Practice-ammo-uses

That's just the first one I came to.

I think only the "holes in the case" type is a reliable indicator.

[grumman581]

Mabe there is no word for "10" in Chinese???????

It kind of looks like a cross or a plus sign.

十

[fastfire]

FWIW

I was getting a thick buildup of powder on the 3/16 aluminum plate that has rows of screws to put boolits on. Found a good way to get the cured powder removed. Use a chisel narrow enough to get between the screw heads and the powder coat chips off purdy quickly. Need to wear safety glasses or better yet face shield as the chips really fly.

[rattletrap1970]

If I remember right Safety Glasers are blue too.

[bangerjim]

Gonna shoot some PC clear 7.62's tomorrow (GC'd).
The clear bakes at only 340 degrees for 10 minutes.
I'll let you know how it works.
Bought from- http://www.ebay.com/itm/271031342489?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

93122

How did these perform...........hammer test and shooting?

From what I have read, the top coat is used with certain candy and metallic just to make them shine better and look "deep". Is it as tough as the other powders we all are using? That would be my big concern.........hardness compared to the standard stuff.

Do you have any results yet?

Your advise is greatly appreciated!

banger

[MacFan]

Hey Banger, here's what I just posted in another thread- http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?171403-Powder-Coating-Boolits&p=2591625#post2591625

Adding this- I polyester PC clear coated some golf club heads for a friend and did the obligatory smash test on a cast bullet, it seems extremely durable.

[bangerjim]

Appreciate it! I will have to get some and play around.


We are getting too many threads to keep track of!!!!!!!!!

good stuff.

banger

[slim1836]

How can you tell if clear passed the hammer test?:)

Slim

[Beagle333]

Got the compressor fixed (thanks to some advice from a member here!)[smilie=s:

The before:
http://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt214/shutupandjump/cast%20boolits/357446003_zps3a7cf86e.jpg

And here's the first batch after a trip through the oven:
http://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt214/shutupandjump/PowderCoating/jan26002_zpsfaa5038e.jpg

[SharuLady]

These are very nice! ESPC coating? I really like the awesome color of the PC. :wink: Brand of PC? Colors of PC used to achieve this color? Are the amounts of PC equal in mixture to achieve this color? I am guessing the colors may be red, yellow, black and possibly some white.

SharuLady

[Beagle333]

It's mostly HarborFreight red with some leftover blue and Kawasaki green. It does look kinda white and yellow with just that little bit of powder in there, but there is none.
No known amounts. I just had some powder left in there when I switched to red.8-)
It will be all red soon.

http://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt214/shutupandjump/PowderCoating/360156009a_zpsb45edc8a.jpg

[SharuLady]

TY for your quick reply. Must say was surprised at the colors used to achieve the final color. The leftover blue and Kawasaki green are not HF PC's, correct? What brands are they? I want to make this color even though I will need to experiment with amounts of PC's needed. Not sure why but this color has just really caught my eye and fascination! :cool:

SharuLady

[Beagle333]

My best guess is that they are PBTP. I apologize for the vague answer, but I bought it from some folks on Ebay. I just saw some green motorcycle parts and some blue engine components and I pm'd the two sellers and asked if they'd sell some of it. So they sent some in ziplock baggies and they wouldn't reveal their source.
I could pm you the two seller's names, but that's about as close as I can get. :coffeecom

[SharuLady]

Yes, if you would be so kind to PM me with the seller's names, it would be appreciated!

SharuLady

[C. Latch]

Well, I just made my first major mistake with ESPC.

I've been mixing HF black with my HF red and it seems to want a hotter, longer cure time. After it had cooked ay ~400 for 15 minutes I kicked it up to about 425 on my toaster dial - realizing but not really thinking about how 1) the dial isn't accurate, and 2) with my little nail rack that I made to hold hollowpoints, the bullets are closer to the heating element. When the timer dinged, I let everything cool for a minute, opened the door, and immediately noticed a puddle of lead in the middle of the tray.

Looks like one bullet is completely melted, two or three others are ruined, and I'll have to put the calipers on all the rest to see what damage was done.

<---feeling a bit stupid right now.

On the bright side, I *really* like the candy-apple red produced by mixing HF red and HF black. I didn't get to shoot this weekend but I have five different loads ready to compare side-by-side (30-30, .45ACP, and 3 .45 Colt loads).

[Beetmagnet]

Real world results achieved. Last month at a local indoor IDPA match I struggled to see and shoot targets because of the smoke while shooting my lube-sized lead bullets. The gray pepper poppers blended in with the smoke and caused problems. This past Saturday I shot the same indoor match with my wife. I shot with HF red coated bullets, and my wife shot with her neon pink pbtb bullets. This was a test run and it worked great. I didn't have nearly the smoke, the barrel was clean, and everything shot flawlessly. I did get some comments about the strange smell, but that was it.

[Beagle333]

C. Latch, did you do the 30-30's on the nail jig too? Did you get any pics of the red and black ones that survived?

We have some snow on the way here tomorrow, so they cancelled work and school for pretty much everybody. (Yep, it's Alabama and we don't like the snow) So anyway, I will be loading up a bunch that I sprayed this weekend. It's shootin' time!
http://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt214/shutupandjump/PowderCoating/jan27002_zpscad7568c.jpg

[C. Latch]

C. Latch, did you do the 30-30's on the nail jig too? Did you get any pics of the red and black ones that survived?


I'm almost embarrassed to admit this, but here's what I did for a nail rack:

I took a cardboard box and cut 2 of the top flaps off and stacked them and wrapped them with aluminum foil. I then poked finishing nails through. What I was left with worked perfectly well for 2 cycles of toasting, but it was obvious that the cardboard had been very near the point of combustion, so I discarded it after 2 cycles.

I hung my NOE 452-230 HP's on those nails, and they coated perfectly. If I get a chance to build a more permanent fixture, though, I have figured out that I should use 2 or 3 different lengths of nails so as to optimize the use of space and allow the maximium number of bullets to be coated with the minimum space - probably 10 short nails, 30 medium nails, and 10 long nails.

Anyway, I haven't came up with a way to coat my NOE SC311-165s without coating the base, which presents a bit of a problem; my bases are larger enough that I already have to seat gas checks mechanically before sizing, and I didn't want to add a coating to the base and further complicate that process (side note: that mold casts awesome. Bullets JUMP out of it!) so I did this: I smeared some of my homemade lithi-bee on each base, then set it on the sides of my nail rack tray. I only did a dozen or so (all the room that was left on the tray with the nail rack sitting on it) on each run, but they turned out fine. The grease melted, seemed to run a bit up the sides of the bullet, but seemed to stop at the lowest driving band, leaving a bullet well-coated except for the check shank.

On the next batch I think I'll seat checks before coating. Pics forthcoming in a minute.

[Beagle333]

Anyway, I haven't came up with a way to coat my NOE SC311-165s without coating the base, which presents a bit of a problem; my bases are larger enough that I already have to seat gas checks mechanically before sizing, and I didn't want to add a coating to the base and further complicate that process.

Did you see this thread? It really works. :-D
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?224624-Coating-GC-rifle-boolits-specifically-30-cal

[C. Latch]

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j85/clatch/Mobile%20Uploads/CA886FC2-A4DF-4A76-BFAC-71B977E93931_zpsb72gqeyj.jpg

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j85/clatch/Mobile%20Uploads/7D81A874-00CC-49E7-B8CF-A5BCAD055FC1_zpsq8pqho1l.jpg

[C. Latch]

Did you see this thread? It really works. :-D
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?224624-Coating-GC-rifle-boolits-specifically-30-cal

Wow! Will try tonight! What size washer?

[Beagle333]

1/4 x 1 fender washers
Be aware that they also sell em bigger than 1" outside diameter and if you get those you can't get many on a tray unless you overlap the washers.

Also check the thickness of the ones you select. I haven't seen it, but some fellows have apparently found some thin ones that they have to double stack. Just be sure to compare what they have.

[TheDoctor]

If I remember right Safety Glasers are blue too.

Glaser safety slugs are tipped in blue, silver, or black. Blue is #12 shot, silver is #6, and black for LE, not sure of the shot size in that one, but supposed to be a +P type charge.

Used to carry Glasers, until I did a lot or reading, and talking to people who had used them in real situations. They sound GREAT on paper, but I decided long ago not to carry them.

[bangerjim]

Well, I just made my first major mistake with ESPC.

I've been mixing HF black with my HF red and it seems to want a hotter, longer cure time. After it had cooked ay ~400 for 15 minutes I kicked it up to about 425 on my toaster dial - realizing but not really thinking about how 1) the dial isn't accurate, and 2) with my little nail rack that I made to hold hollowpoints, the bullets are closer to the heating element. When the timer dinged, I let everything cool for a minute, opened the door, and immediately noticed a puddle of lead in the middle of the tray.

Looks like one bullet is completely melted, two or three others are ruined, and I'll have to put the calipers on all the rest to see what damage was done.

<---feeling a bit stupid right now.

On the bright side, I *really* like the candy-apple red produced by mixing HF red and HF black. I didn't get to shoot this weekend but I have five different loads ready to compare side-by-side (30-30, .45ACP, and 3 .45 Colt loads).

400F for 10 min.......that is all that is needed for baking. That is in a convection (fan) oven. The standard ovens have severe hot & cold spots that do NOT serve our purpose with boolits. I guarantee your oven thermostat WILL be wrong. Buy an oven thermometer or an IR one from HF and "shoot" the boolits to see what temp you REALLY are at. Yes is DOES work very well on PC boolits..........just not on molten lead!

Standard ovens have hot and cold spots especially over the elements and around the sides. Conv ones spread the heat profile out evenly with a fan and do an excellent job curing the PC. Conv ovens run around $100 or so for a good one. They are really the only ones that will do the job you want. Unless you are happy with under cured and saggy/melty boolits! HA....ha!

bangerjim

[bangerjim]

C. Latch, did you do the 30-30's on the nail jig too? Did you get any pics of the red and black ones that survived?

We have some snow on the way here tomorrow, so they cancelled work and school for pretty much everybody. (Yep, it's Alabama and we don't like the snow) So anyway, I will be loading up a bunch that I sprayed this weekend. It's shootin' time!
http://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt214/shutupandjump/PowderCoating/jan27002_zpscad7568c.jpg

A nice-looking "field-o-boolits" there, guy!!!!!! Enjoy the winter! It's 74 here in the Valley of the Sun!

banger

[bangerjim]

Did you see this thread? It really works. :-D
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?224624-Coating-GC-rifle-boolits-specifically-30-cal

This is how I now do ALL my GC'd 223's and 30's. Works GREAT! And you can just "paper over" the top of the foil with a new piece when you want to coat standard base boolits. That way you do not disturb your washer layout. Gets you a lot more usage from your racks that way!

bangerjim

[C. Latch]

400F for 10 min.......that is all that is needed for baking. That is in a convection (fan) oven. The standard ovens have severe hot & cold spots that do NOT serve our purpose with boolits. I guarantee your oven thermostat WILL be wrong. Buy an oven thermometer or an IR one from HF and "shoot" the boolits to see what temp you REALLY are at. Yes is DOES work very well on PC boolits..........just not on molten lead!

Standard ovens have hot and cold spots especially over the elements and around the sides. Conv ones spread the heat profile out evenly with a fan and do an excellent job curing the PC. Conv ovens run around $100 or so for a good one. They are really the only ones that will do the job you want. Unless you are happy with under cured and saggy/melty boolits! HA....ha!

bangerjim

I'm familiar with the limitations of toaster thermometers but honestly I can buy a lot of stuff for what a convection oven and thermometer would cost. I ruined 8 bullets the other night - that's about $0.40 for a mistake that I now know how to not make again. I'll stick with the toaster; now that I know how to run it hot enough to cure paint without getting hot enough to melt bullets, it just doesn't make sense to spend the money on a convection oven.

I'm running another batch tonight and I'll let you know how they turn out.

[C. Latch]

1/4 x 1 fender washers

Grabbed a pack on the way home. Should have some results to post by bedtime tonight. :)

[bangerjim]

I'm familiar with the limitations of toaster thermometers but honestly I can buy a lot of stuff for what a convection oven and thermometer would cost. I ruined 8 bullets the other night - that's about $0.40 for a mistake that I now know how to not make again. I'll stick with the toaster; now that I know how to run it hot enough to cure paint without getting hot enough to melt bullets, it just doesn't make sense to spend the money on a convection oven.

I'm running another batch tonight and I'll let you know how they turn out.

It's your call. I, being an engineer by trade, tend to lean toward accuracy and repeatability, irregardless of the cost. $100 or so for a tool that allows me to do things easily and accurately without any fudges or tweaks is worth every single penny in my book.

I fiddles and messed with a standard $3 Goodwill *** for many bakes before I realized my time was more valuable. So off to the store to get a new conv oven. I gave that high end one to my wife in exchange for our older one (it still cost about $100 when we bought it) and have never looked back.

Let us know how you do!

banger

[rattletrap1970]

It's regardless... Just sayin.. Lol

[grumman581]

It's regardless... Just sayin.. Lol

It's "LOL", not "Lol" -- acronyms are capitalized. Well, unless it's something like DoD and then the "of" part is often left lowercase. :)

[Oreo]

Unless you're on a smartphone with auto-capitalization. In which case ". Lol" gets a pass.

[grumman581]

Unless you're on a smartphone with auto-capitalization. In which case ". Lol" gets a pass.

Awh, don't get me started about smartphones and their auto-corrections. :)

Sometimes I think I spend more time correcting its automatic replacements than I would just typing it letter by letter. And of course the speech to text conversion is lets just say somewhat "creative" at times. :)

[Hang Fire]

Ya know, I am going to advise you guys to patent these methods, before some major manufacturer snatches them. Think about it. They could save millions in production cost if they can eliminate jackets in manufacturing.

Such patents would have nine ways to Sunday for competition with money to make end runs around it.

As one who has been involved in the patent process with the $, time and effort involved for issuance, that would be a non starter for me.

[Beagle333]

'Coated a few today. Here is the coating facility, ready for production. :wink:
http://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt214/shutupandjump/PowderCoating/feb1003_zps1f273516.jpg

I did 320 today while I was smoking some chicken on the Big Green Egg (the base can seen behind the toaster in the first pic)
One of these days I really gotta go fetch my 3-level convection toaster that I bought on Craigslist.
The darker ones had some blue still in the cup when I added red. I had some penta, some cup and some deep HPs.
http://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt214/shutupandjump/PowderCoating/feb1009_zps120c3ff5.jpg

http://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt214/shutupandjump/PowderCoating/feb1013_zps89c8e1f1.jpg

http://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt214/shutupandjump/PowderCoating/feb1014_zps6b2ea6c3.jpg

[sparky45]

Beagle; have you got a video of you making these beautiful bullets? I've been PC'ing my cast Lead for a short time now, but my coverage isn't quite as good as your's especially around the base. I don't have the HF gun, instead I bought the Craftsman gun.
Sparky

[bangerjim]

I have read about people having inferior results with the Sears gun. I have never had the opportnity to use one so I really do not know the problems. But several on here have voiced problems in construciton & usage. Hopefully playing around with it will give you acceptable results.

As you can see, Beagle is getting excellent coatings as do I and all the others on here do using the ESPC HF gun. Mine look the same way.....perfect coatings every time.

Good luck and have fun!!!!!!!

bangerjim

[Beagle333]

I don't have a video. I just have an old Sony DCS-T50 flipcam with a "micro" setting that I use to take most of my pictures. But the key to getting a good coating on the bottom driving band is to have enough room between the boolits (I use a 3/4" spacing) and spray from all sides. If you only did 9mm, they could be close and if you only did .45, 'maybe might need a little more, but for me the 3/4 is a great all-around grid. I spray from all 4 sides of my tray with a sweeping motion and aim for the bases. I don't walk around the table with the cord and hose, and I have to stand on the switch, so I just reach over and to each side and spray from all directions, but at an angle. The HF gun will spray upside down for 8-10 seconds at a time while I reach over, especially with a slight flip or tap to keep the powder agitated while spraying.

I know that a lot of folks don't want to mess with the nuts under the foil, but I find that I get a great coat all the way to the bottom and even some wrap-around effect from having the boolit elevated just a little bit. This lets me know that the contact surfaces are all coated in nice slippery polyester. :-D
http://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt214/shutupandjump/cast%20boolits/jan29013_zps0b25c885.jpg

[el34]

I know that a lot of folks don't want to mess with the nuts under the foil, but I find that I get a great coat all the way to the bottom and even some wrap-around effect from having the boolit elevated just a little bit. This lets me know that the contact surfaces are all coated in nice slippery polyester. :-D
http://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt214/shutupandjump/cast%20boolits/jan29013_zps0b25c885.jpg

IMO that's one of the two big reasons to use the nuts. The other is ease of removal after baking.

[birdadly]

Hi PC-ers. I was using a cheap toaster oven while Dry Tumbling (and never had an issue), but I finally purchased things for the ES method and so bought a nicer and bigger "countertop convection oven" and a thermometer. So I crank it up to 375 and toss in the thermometer (oven one from walmart). I go set up some bullets, come back and she's at 550!

Sooo, I'll simply test this tonight by trying it indoors, but does anyone know if outside temperature effects these things? I was in the garage, it was probably 12 degrees out, so maybe it thought it had to keep the burners on??

Here's the one I got, it says convection, but is obviously on the cheap side of the convection line...

http://www.walmart.com/ip/22866805?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=3&adid=22222222227017180498&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=35471452476&wl4=&wl5=pla&wl6=50589083796&veh=sem

-Brad

[w0fms]

One of these days I'll accidentally find a cheap used convection oven at Goodwill.. but until then do no more than 75 as a time and watch the boolits as the cure. You can see them when the curing is complete from watching the sheen.. go a minute or two past then and you are fine. I melted two batches with the cheap toaster oven too.. but both I didn't pay attention. If you use the $13 oven, you need to do small batches, a single tray at a time and pay attention. I never have had "under cured" ones that way... And the HF powder will cure at 375*F even though 450*F is recommended.. and that's with a thermocouple monitoring the cure....

[kbstenberg]

Birdadly I was baking in my unheated well shed in -5 to-15 and I didn't have a problem. I did try to second guess my oven but I learned to trust its temperature reading. But it is a new oven as well as an upper end one. Kevin

[bangerjim]

Ambient temp will/should have no effect on the inside temp of your oven. It is the cheap thermostats they use in those ovens. You will have to do a test run at different temps and write the REAL temps on your oven front. Those things are about as cheap as you can get.....a bi-metal strip that expands and closed a set of contacts!

But they should be relatively repeatable, so do a cal test.

bangerjim

[MacFan]

Let your toaster oven stabilize for 20 or 30 minutes.
At first warm up mine will hit 500 degrees and then slowly cool and stabilize where it's set. If I'm rushing, I'll open the door a little to cool it back down to temp faster.

[AverageJoe]

I am seeing more and more colors showing up, so I thought that I would show my troops lined up.

[Beagle333]

Nice lookin' ES boolits there, AverageJoe! 8-)

[TreeKiller]

AverageJoe;
What is the color of the copper ones on the right and where did you get it? Got some that I thought would be copper from allpowder but it is a nice carmel when applied.
thanks Dan

[AverageJoe]

Those are my "I over did it" bullets. I recently got some "SUPER DURABLE HIGH GLOSS CLEAR COAT" polyester powder from eBay and I had some leftover metal flake from a job.....so gold metal flake with the clear over it. The stuff is crazy glossy.

[Maximumbob54]

OK, I have to break down and ask/beg for some ES gun 101 training. I either get hardly anything coming out or I get the smog cloud coming out. I cannot adjust to anything in the middle. I'm wasting way too much powder and I doubt I'm getting a very even coating. I've tried to adjust the little brass flow knob and that just seems to do nothing unless it's wide open. I know that can't be right but if I leave it at about half it won't work at all. I have seen the second regulator attached between the hose and the gun so that's the only other thing I have left to try. Do I just have a bad gun? I've not messed with the tip since I thought that just effected powder direction.

[C. Latch]

Maximumbob, have you tried opening the internal regulator about 3/4 of the way and shaking the gun as you spray?

My spraying is far from consistent but after a couple of minutes I always end up with a fairly consistent coat on everything. How much pressure do you have on your line? My gauge is messed up and I just open my line valve until I barely hear air rush into it. My tank is small but I've learned how to coat an entire tray and still have 60+ lbs of pressure in my tank. I can coat two trays per tank now. It really doesn't take much air at all; just a gentle breeze and keep shaking the gun as you spray.

[C. Latch]

Oh, and consider this: if you waste a whole pound of HF powder in the learning process, you're only out $6.

[Maximumbob54]

It's not the couple of bucks I'm out, it's the MESS. The front half of my garage is going to look like the Mars landscape at some point.

[C. Latch]

It's not the couple of bucks I'm out, it's the MESS. The front half of my garage is going to look like the Mars landscape at some point.

LOL! I can totally see that. I coat outside, which works great except for days like today - I got rained out at work and it's too wet to cast or coat. I do have some primed cases and coated bullets that need loading, though.

[w0fms]

Ah, when you are done, do what I do and go full pressure with a little air gun nozzle and just blow the mess into a cardboard box and toss it outside!

Has anyone tried clear PC yet? I have seen some speculation that some people think the coloring in the PC wears barrels prematurely, and I thought "clear" would probably alleviate that. So far I don't see anything abnormal myself, but I'm busy enough (and it's been cold enough lately!) that I shoot, well nothing compared to most of you guys, tho.. so who knows?

[JASON4X4]

A few guys have used the clear. The only powder in question is the harbor freight flat black

[el34]

MaxBob, that mess just ain't right. But I don't know why you're getting it. When I started PC I anticipated a mess and spread out a tarp, and did make a mess my first time out but quickly made changes. What works for me at least-

- unscrewed/removed the yellow plastic 'spreader-outer' thing on the threaded rod.
- added a small $6 HF regulator (not just a valve) at the air input to the gun. It keeps the air pressure consistent right where you need it.
- set reg around 12psi, tap the gun fairly often while spraying, keep it within a foot of the boolits.
- learned that more than an inch or so of powder in the tank causes tsunamis.

Maybe one or two of these things will work for you too. Once you get it tamed it's pretty easy.

[Beagle333]

Maxiumbob54, have you tried just putting 1/2 to 3/4 inch of powder in the cup and make sure you're getting a powder tornado in there and not just blasting out pure powder down the tube? I didn't remember you saying how much you were putting in there. I use about 2 inches, never more, but it will spray powder down to the last 1/16 of an inch in there. Just one inch of powder would do many trays.

[BIGRED]

Shot around 60 boolits in the 45 and in the 9mm. No leading, as accurate as the lubed ones. Cleaned bore with a wet swab of hopped, and no PC residue. Scrubbed bore with bronze brush and hopped, ran another patch and still no PC residue. I am calling this a success. Reclaimed bullets from trap and they still have most of PC on them. Even after going through plywood and 15" of rubber mulch.

[kbstenberg]

I was arranging my shed to start ESPC. Everyone has trouble with bullets falling over, and I got to looking. I set my oven sideways on the bench. I had a leftover short bench from another project that was the same height as the level that I bake at. So I set the bench which is 10" by 14" by 4" high, just an inch beyond the swing of the door.
I will make a cardboard spray booth so I don't get powder all over my shiny new Con. Oven. PC the bullets on the bench lift off the booth. then just slide the tray off of the bench and into the oven. I will report later on how it works. Kevin

[Spector]

Makes me wonder if you can't build a surface between two steel drawer slides at the height of your oven rack so the slides would gently convey your undisturbed boolits right to the oven rack. Much less chance of your boolits falling over. No gap at all between oven rack and PS spray tray. Just need a way to lock the steel drawer slides in the closed position while you are spraying PC until you are ready to smoothly extend them to the oven rack.

Mike

[Beagle333]

NOE 360160 WFN, in HF red and Lagoon green.
(and a little of whatever color was used last in the powder jar):wink:
I put the checks on em because I'm loading them for Mom to shoot in her Marlin.
http://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt214/shutupandjump/PowderCoating/feb13011_zps6e37fbbb.jpg
http://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt214/shutupandjump/PowderCoating/feb13015_zps7b021f90.jpg

[JASON4X4]

nice you make your own checks

[Beagle333]

You can't beat free checks!

Also today, made a couple of trays of Accurate 359-162V
http://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt214/shutupandjump/PowderCoating/feb13016_zps9b541040.jpg

And some 358665 for a friend's new Rossi. (yes, they were sprayed with two different batches of powder)
http://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt214/shutupandjump/PowderCoating/feb13022_zpsb60753e2.jpg

And both of these were some older boolits that I had stored after tumbling in LLA. So I tumbled em in a coffee can with some gasoline, air dried, and then a quick swirl with some lacquer thinner to get the gas smell off 'em, then air dried and sprayed.

[C. Latch]

I stopped at the local HF last night. They had all their powders still on sale, so I grabbed a yellow, a white, and another red.

Now if I only had some time to do some coating.

[Walter Laich]

I'm like several others in really liking the speckled pc colors. And they never are the same.
Another thing to add to my 'to-do' list

[C. Latch]

I'm trying something this morning, and can't report on its effectiveness just yet - thought of it after two trays of bullets and didn't have enough air in the compressor to finish this third tray - but here's what I did for a hollow-point rack:

I took scraps of aluminum foil from my first two trays, then some other scrap pieces, and balled up tiny little 2"x2" gobs of foil, then twisted a point from one corner, and flattened the rest. This left a base I could stand on my tray, with a little aluminum-foil point sticking up, upon which I cold impale a hollow-point bullet.

I tried 6 or 7 of these and stuck them on unused corners of my tray. I had 20PSI left in a 3-gallon tank and got about 90% coverage when the tank ran dry. As soon as the baby wakes up from her nap (right above the porch where the air compressor has to run) I'll finish this tray, bake them, and try to get a picture.

If this works, it becomes an absolutely dirt-cheap way to stand a hollowpoint bullet on a tray, no fancy racks needed, and the coating with strengthen each little 'stand' and they'll get better with each use. In theory.

[C. Latch]

Ok, the balled-up foil worked. I figured out that a 2"x3" strip is enough but 2"x4" is perfect; ball each strip up, twist one end into a point long enough to keep the bullet up in the air, flatten the base, and it works perfectly.

FWIW it seems to me that HF red or yellow both cure easier than HF black. I've found that red and yellow with just a touch of black still cures fine and makes a nice fall-themed orangish color that I really like.

Also, I figured out that twelve minutes on my oven timer, with the thermostat set on 350 degrees, is perfect. Complete cure, no melting. If I'm elevating any bullets on a nail rack I put them closest to the door as in theory it should be the coolest part of the oven.

[Beagle333]

I'm imagining it to look a little bit like a Hershey's Kiss? You got pitchers? :coffeecom

[C. Latch]

I'm imagining it to look a little bit like a Hershey's Kiss? You got pitchers? :coffeecom

Not nearly as pretty as a Hershey's kiss, but yes, that's the idea. You can literally do this with scraps of foil.

A coat of powder have pretty much glued these to the base foil, but you can sort of see here. Bullets are NOE 452-230s:

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j85/clatch/Mobile%20Uploads/52AD4AB6-AD7E-4AAB-8E19-CD5EAFCD2795_zpsbhb02ecr.jpg (http://s78.photobucket.com/user/clatch/media/Mobile%20Uploads/52AD4AB6-AD7E-4AAB-8E19-CD5EAFCD2795_zpsbhb02ecr.jpg.html)


Here's one from another scrap of foil. Bullets on tray are NOE 311-165s.

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j85/clatch/Mobile%20Uploads/BBA10417-957C-40BF-B80C-0C10FAE8FC05_zps6gsqqzmz.jpg (http://s78.photobucket.com/user/clatch/media/Mobile%20Uploads/BBA10417-957C-40BF-B80C-0C10FAE8FC05_zps6gsqqzmz.jpg.html)

[C. Latch]

Another thing I noticed today:

I did several trays, and on one of them I forgot to hook the pigtail to the tray to charge it. I could not tell a drop of difference in the way the bullets were coated.

Maybe we'd all be just as well off with simple blow guns that attack directly to an air line, no 'es' needed?

[Beagle333]

Those 311-165s are awesome, aren't they!

I can really tell a difference when I'm not stepping on the pedal. My powder just blows right by the boolits and I cannot get them to coat on the lower 2/3 for anything..... until I notice that I'm not stepping on the pedal.

[C. Latch]

Those 311-165s are awesome, aren't they!

I can really tell a difference when I'm not stepping on the pedal. My powder just blows right by the boolits and I cannot get them to coat on the lower 2/3 for anything..... until I notice that I'm not stepping on the pedal.

I haven't got to shoot them on paper yet, but I've got a decent amount of them loaded up and ready to go.

When I coat the bottom of my bullets always coats last, but it doesn't bother me with the 311-165 in washers they're spaced well enough that they coat pretty quickly, with pistol bullets most of them are upside down anyway and I've decided that I really don't even care if the bottom (which is the nose) is coated anyway. As long as I have a solid coat on the driving bands, the nose and the lube grooves can be completely bare and it doesn't bother me.

If one doesn't have a complete coat, I just rub a dab of lube on it and load it anyway.

[Beagle333]

I cast and coated about 500 today. All in HF red. About half and half of:
358429
http://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt214/shutupandjump/PowderCoating/feb15001_zps2c24476a.jpg

and 38-162-SWC (These will get gas checks)
http://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt214/shutupandjump/PowderCoating/feb15011_zps6e652214.jpg

All got one spray, one bake of 400 degrees for 20 mins.
And I didn't knock a single one over when moving the trays! :-D


I scored a pound of W296 at the LGS... I'm gonna light these babies up!:wink:

[kbstenberg]

Beagle333 You couldn't tip anything over being packed that close together.:kidding:

[StromBusa]

I don't have a video. I just have an old Sony DCS-T50 flipcam with a "micro" setting that I use to take most of my pictures. But the key to getting a good coating on the bottom driving band is to have enough room between the boolits (I use a 3/4" spacing) and spray from all sides. If you only did 9mm, they could be close and if you only did .45, 'maybe might need a little more, but for me the 3/4 is a great all-around grid. I spray from all 4 sides of my tray with a sweeping motion and aim for the bases. I don't walk around the table with the cord and hose, and I have to stand on the switch, so I just reach over and to each side and spray from all directions, but at an angle. The HF gun will spray upside down for 8-10 seconds at a time while I reach over, especially with a slight flip or tap to keep the powder agitated while spraying.

I know that a lot of folks don't want to mess with the nuts under the foil, but I find that I get a great coat all the way to the bottom and even some wrap-around effect from having the boolit elevated just a little bit. This lets me know that the contact surfaces are all coated in nice slippery polyester. :-D
http://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt214/shutupandjump/cast%20boolits/jan29013_zps0b25c885.jpg


Is that 3/4" center to center spacing or 3/4" clearance between rows? (Nice Job)

[Beagle333]

(thanks:grin:)
Center to center.

[w0fms]

The local Menards has a Pizza Oven on sale for $40. I'm tempted to hook a PID up to it (since the temp control is fixed in it) and some sort of fan to turn it into a convection oven.. but man, you could probably do 400-500 at a time in it...

I suppose the cost when added all up would be prohibitive tho...

Anyone use an old pizza oven? ;)

[bangerjim]

I do about 300 at a time (every 10-12 minutes) in my 4 rack little convection oven. That is fast enough for me!!!!!!! I cannot shoot them that fast!
Unless you are doing a commercial venture, that is a ton of boolits!

banger

[ipijohn]

I had an interesting thing happen yesterday; I have ESPC coated 8 or 10 thousand boolits in the last six months with powder from several different sources in many colors of the rainbow. Yesterday I loaded my gun with some silver powder that I purchased from All Powder Paints. After about 5 seconds of coating I got too close to my rack and got a spark which ignited a fire ball about 12 inches in diameter at the end of my gun. I immediately quit spraying and moved the gun back, the fire ball went out. Has anyone else had this happen to them or is it the batch of powder that I used?

[TheDoctor]

Not yet for me, but some dust when suspended in the air is flammable or explosive. Take a pinch of flour and drop it over a candle flame...

[bangerjim]

ANY product in a fine dust condition and mixed with the right amount of air will become a combustable mixture!

Yet.........our guns spark on a regular basis while coating and I have NEVER had or heard of this happening. It must be that Al dust content for pigment as popper said above. I used to use Al powder to make explosive "bangers" as a kid. Makes great flash powder.

Question......why are you coating silver-looking lead with a sliver-looking powder???????

Just asking! [smilie=1:

banger

[Beagle333]

Question......why are you coating silver-looking lead with a sliver-looking powder???????


I don't know why he's doing it, but I bet several folks would be interested in the results. I have read about ranges and cowboy shoots who won't allow PC. If it was silver, they wouldn't know. :wink:

[AverageJoe]

I thought about silver then decided to go with a durable slick clear. I still get the lead look and all the benefits of PC. Kinda glad about the clear....no fireballs. By the way, the clear is performing the same as the standard PC...outstanding.

[Oreo]

Which clear are you using? There's a bunch of them.

[Beagle333]

I'd like to give the clear a try too. :-D Source?

[Faret]

Question......why are you coating silver-looking lead with a sliver-looking powder???????

Just asking! [smilie=1:

banger

Maybe he has a werewolf problem?:holysheep

[Beetmagnet]

Here's a few "Easter egg" bullets I made for the wife. I'm not one to talk crassly, but these silly colored bullets have got me laid twice now.97994

[Beagle333]

Nice looking Beetmagnet.... and cheaper than diamonds! :wink:

Are those PBTP colors?

[AverageJoe]

SUPER DURABLE HIGH GLOSS CLEAR COAT - SUPER DURABLE POLYESTER TGIC on eBay. From seller POWDERCOATPAINTS, has good reviews and lots of colors, but I was curious about this clear.
I love the clear.

[AverageJoe]

With the clear, you can go naked or put a base for some extra zing. I'm an airbrush artist, so I like the option to base any color I want and than seal it with the clear.

Sorry BangerJim, no more lookies, but it was part of the clear option.

[RP]

Joe break out the air brush and add some flames or something that's has to be a first.

[KYShooter73]

Here's a few "Easter egg" bullets I made for the wife. I'm not one to talk crassly, but these silly colored bullets have got me laid twice now.97994

What more can a man ask for by starting a thread that becomes a sticky. In the words of Luca Brassi, "I hope your first child be a masculine child."

[Walter Laich]

I have read about ranges and cowboy shoots who won't allow PC. If it was silver, they wouldn't know. :wink:

Actually in new Jan '14, Version 19 rule book SASS now says: It must be all lead. Molydisulfide, polymer coated bullets, or equivalent are acceptable.

[ipijohn]

ANY product in a fine dust condition and mixed with the right amount of air will become a combustable mixture!

Yet.........our guns spark on a regular basis while coating and I have NEVER had or heard of this happening. It must be that Al dust content for pigment as popper said above. I used to use Al powder to make explosive "bangers" as a kid. Makes great flash powder.

Question......why are you coating silver-looking lead with a sliver-looking powder???????

Just asking! [smilie=1:

banger

Same reason as the guy who coats them to look like Easter eggs. AND I have found that the silver PC conducts very well. I ESPC on screen wire racks. With the silver color being conductive I don't have to clean the racks, just slide the cooked ones off and reload anyplace on the rack with my loading block.

[lka]

I had an arc and small fireball the first time using the gun, it was HF powder, black in color. It was small enough to not make me jump

[Beagle333]

I have found that the silver PC conducts very well. I ESPC on screen wire racks. With the silver color being conductive I don't have to clean the racks, just slide the cooked ones off and reload anyplace on the rack with my loading block.
That should be very interesting to the guys who use nail heads and screws for their jigs/trays. :-D

[totalloser]

Sort of a non-issue on the nail heads. To say they clean up easily would be an understatement.

However, having a powder that is particularly conductive is worthy of note for a different reason: It means that the powder likely can be mixed with trouble powders like HF yellow and wind up with a metal flake yellow that bonds decently. IE magic bonding elixir that adds *bling* to the boolit. I'm intrigued.

[birdadly]

Hiya. Do you guys get powder that just falls out of the end of the gun, kinda fairly often? I do. I wonder if I may not hold it at the best angle (like should the jug of powder be perfectly straight up/down?), or maybe I shake it around too much to get the "swirling" sound from the jug (maybe I should stop shaking the gun and just tap the jug). Or maybe it's a matter of how much powder I have in the jug.

Speaking of that, when we say 1-2 inches of powder... is that when the jug is upright? Or upside down on the gun? Because there's actually a fairly big difference in space between the two.

I'm trying to get the hang of this, and trying to learn what the powder, gun and bullets all like... it seems like it varies so much and so often! I'm getting nice results overall, so I'm happy. I just wanted to toss out a few questions/thoughts now that I've been at it for a couple weeks.

Thanks. -Brad

[Beagle333]

1-1/2" when upright, which as you say, will be more when on the gun.

I do have a little powder fall out, but not much. I'm just careful that when I do tip the gun straight down, it's not over the boolits.
But I'm still talking about a few spots of powder, and not every spray, so I don't know what causes it.
I did 3 trays yesterday and it only dropped the spots during one of the sprays.
I'll bet it's not enough powder to fill up a Tylenol capsule if you were to collect it all up.
(sorry I don't have a more scientific comparison of volume):wink:

I don't hold the gun level, I hold it at a steep angle, probably more downward than level as I work my way around the tray. Maybe that's why most powder blows out with the airflow. :???:

[bangerjim]

1-1/2" when upright, which as you say, will be more when on the gun.

I do have a little powder fall out, but not much. I'm just careful that when I do tip the gun straight down, it's not over the boolits.
But I'm still talking about a few spots of powder, and not every spray, so I don't know what causes it.
I did 3 trays yesterday and it only dropped the spots during one of the sprays.
I'll bet it's not enough powder to fill up a Tylenol capsule if you were to collect it all up.
(sorry I don't have a more scientific comparison of volume):wink:

I don't hold the gun level, I hold it at a steep angle, probably more downward than level as I work my way around the tray. Maybe that's why most powder blows out with the airflow. :???:

Agree................hold the gun at least at a 45° angle when spraying. Due to static buildup of the HV charge and the powder/air mix flowing down the plastic pipe, a static charge will build up on the inner wall of the gun barrel and collect powder. Occasionally some of that will come off and fall out. If you ever look up in there, you will see there is a LOT of powder clinging to the walls. ( At least here in low humidity AZ it does!) That is why there is so much carry-over when you change color many times. It's not the powder in the jar. It's the powder in the barrel of the ES gun. When I change colors I blow the thing out with high pressure air to get rid of all that. It does take a bit to get "the skids greased" in the gun barrel again to get a good coating started, but that is just the way it is.


Oh............it's 2" of powder in the BIG part of the jar!

Good coatings!

bangerjim

[Bzcraig]

I hadn't yet bought a lube/sizer, just tumble lube 38, 357, 9mm and 30-30, which has been cheap enough (and I have a lifetime supply of 45/45/10 now) and fast enough, but the allure of PC is more than I can resist plus I'll be able to PC other stuff as well. Honestly, I wasn't interested in the HT, piglet method or tumble method cause the results were less impressive to me asthetically, but the ESPC was irresistible. I tried staying away but couldn't, then convinced myself that if I read every post someone would say something that would convince me not to do this, whatever! 8-)
Whew, it felt good to get that off my chest! I ordered a decent countertop convection oven from Walmart, picked up the HF ES PC gun and paint today but it will be a week or so before I get started spraying. I'm Craig and I'm an addict.

[pretzelxx]

Today, while I was eating some left overs, I remember the static build up of styrofoam cups. Maybe this is a disposable container for small batches of mixed colors for show? Or if it leaves an even coat due to thematic property, a pretty cheap "electrostatic" alternative.

[AverageJoe]

Whew, it felt good to get that off my chest! I ordered a decent countertop convection oven from Walmart, picked up the HF ES PC gun and paint today but it will be a week or so before I get started spraying. I'm Craig and I'm an addict.

Welcome Craig

You've taken the first step to recovery, now comes therapy. Welcome to the club of "Compulsive Coaters".

[Beagle333]

Members: "Hi Craig! And welcome to the group. Would you like to be first to read from the handbook today?" :wink:


The 457193. I'm going to have to figure out a way to spray these big ol' boolits that don't have a GC to hold em up. They didn't work on my little tray with the nuts. I knocked em over 3 times before I even got to spraying, so I just stood them on the foil. It works okay, but I like the nice clean edge that I get when they are elevated just a bit.
http://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt214/shutupandjump/PowderCoating/march2003_zpsf4c2aefc.jpg

[bangerjim]

Today, while I was eating some left overs, I remember the static build up of styrofoam cups. Maybe this is a disposable container for small batches of mixed colors for show? Or if it leaves an even coat due to thematic property, a pretty cheap "electrostatic" alternative.

I have done as few as 3 boolits in my coolwhip tub with excellent results!

banger

[sasquatch76]

Been reading up on here and thinking about getting into PC'ing. A friend sent some 45 230gr TC boolits he PC'ed HF black, I loved them. Well, I ordered the HF PC gun today and some powders. My PC adventure is about to begin.

[JASON4X4]

Enjoy just like Pringles once you pop you just can't stop

[idoono]

Thanks guys. Because of this thread I went to Harbor Freight yesterday and dropped some cash (well you know you can't go there and buy only one thing). Now I need to order a 40 cal mold and see if I can run them through my Glocks. Can't wait to see how they turn out.

Idoono

[bstone5]

I shoot a lot of 40 caliber that are powder coated.

Shoot fine without any lead barrel is always very clean.

I do install the Cola Can Gas Checks on the powder coated bullets.

[Cloudwraith]

If anyone is thinking of getting into PC (like me!), the April/May 2014 edition of Guns & Ammo's Handgun magazine has a Harbor Freight ad with a coupon for a 1/3 HP 100PSI 3 gallon pancake compressor for $39.99 (Normally $79.99). Picked one up at my local HF to use for powder coating. Now I just need to use my 20% off coupon and get my powdercoat sprayer when I find it on sale :)

[sasquatch76]

I wish there was a HF around where I lived, but the closest one is the southern part of the state. I did get my HF powder coat system today, still have to wait until April to get the HF black I ordered, for some reason it shipped from Ca.

[RLG]

Hey Popper, Banger and anyone else who has an opinion.
I've been very happy PC'ing and shooting a couple thousand 45acps. Alloy and type of PC doesn't seem to be too critical on these pistol rounds.
I'm probably going to start casting and PC'ing for 7.62 x 39. I intend to keep speeds around 2,100fps.
Any suggestions on whether I'll need gas checks with the PC? How about alloy suggestions with PC?
Thanks much.
"MacFan;
I have PC'd and shot many rounds of 7.62X39. (160 gn cast WW.) I have tried it both ways. (with/without GC) I have found that yes you can shoot without a GC above 1900 fps, but the accuracy is terrible!!! So if that doesn't matter, shoot away. With a GC, I can shoot 1 inch at 50 yds. Without GC = 3 inches. (Iron sights Norinco Chinese MAK 90) If you slow it down --> accuracy improves. Also, brass casings are more accurate to use than steel reloads. (Yes you can reload steel.) I think that you can get away with a softer lead alloy with PC'ing. Another reason to consider using gas checks. The reason I started PC'ing cast bullets was to reduce or stop leading of the gas block/piston. I found that after 80 rnds my piston would lock up due to leading. The PC coating stopped it completely. Yes I can shoot and enjoy cast boolits thanks to PC. Now I can shoot hundreds with no problems.
Have fun!"

[StromBusa]

101666

Has anyone tried to coat boolits held by a spring clip snapped into a lube groove? Something like this or the ones that hold tractor pins? I'm thinking it may have some promise, just thought of it.

[Beagle333]

There's a fellow that is twisting them up with wire and hanging them by the lube grooves and he's getting pretty good results. Are those clips disposable..... or how would you clean them up so you would get a good contact the next time you used them? I think the best overall way to get full boolit coverage is by suspension, either by a lube groove or using a pin nailer, but practicality limits how far one will go to get full coverage all the time. :cool:

[StromBusa]

This is the other clip I was thinking abour "hitch pin clip"

101673

Good point, never tried to remove powder coating, paint remover may not work...

These guys have assorted clips in stainless steel, perhaps some acid would clean them, I don't know.

http://www.westernwireprod.com/Portals/0/Catalog%20Pages%20-%20PDF%20Files/20-ExtHPC's.pdf

[WallyM3]

I tried paint stripper last night. No good.

There is a PC remover, though. I haven't gone hunting it up yet. I've seen 5 gals. for $180.

I'm going to try some coarse steel wool on the chrome racks I used in hopes that the chrome plating will prove a "slippery" base for the PC.

[StromBusa]

I read that aerosol "gasket remover" works really good, I think I will try it.

http://www.trx250r.net/forum/tips-tricks/10789-removing-powder-coating-not-pain-***-anymore-2.html

Oh, & if I spend $180 on strippers......:wink:

[WallyM3]

Link didn't work for me.

That would be very handy if it works. Spray and rinse.

[bstone5]

A better link for the removal of powder coat.

http://www.choppersurplus.com/global/articles/howtoremovepowdercoating.html

[bangerjim]

Acetone should remove ANY polyester coating. Why waste money on cans of "stuff" when you probably already have some around.

I have never tried it, but standard old paint stripper (methylene chloride) will probably make it bubble up. Then you have the horrible gooey mess to clean up!

Stick with what is FAST & easy................acetone and 0000 steel wool.......or even a NEW razor blade scraper as mentioned. ( I tend to cut myself around sharp objects!)
banger

[MostlyOnThePaper]

Well, while I am NOT the voice of powder coating experience-my adventure in this medium will kick off next week-my past experience removing paint says the absolute fastest way to remove powder coating from these is, for me anyway, to toss the dirty little buggers back in the pot and have them reborn anew. I can't for the life of me figure out why I would want to putz around with any kind of spring clip, although I will say my present plan is for boolits that will easily stand on their own hind legs, .458, and if I decide to fool with .22 caliber ones I might want a better way.

Jim, thanks especially for your input, I think PC will be perfect for what I want it for.

Randy

[WallyM3]

"I have never tried it, but standard old paint stripper (methylene chloride) will probably make it bubble up. Then you have the horrible gooey mess to clean up!"

That's what I thought, too, but meth cl based stripper didn't do it. I was hoping that it would since I have stripped about 7 lathes and mills with it and it hoses off very handily.

[bangerjim]

The only pain I have found that MECL will not strip is old milk paint! Nasty stuff.

I have several tools around I need to strip so I can PC them. MECL and the wire brush on my bench grinder does wonders.

banger

[bangerjim]

Well, while I am NOT the voice of powder coating experience-my adventure in this medium will kick off next week-my past experience removing paint says the absolute fastest way to remove powder coating from these is, for me anyway, to toss the dirty little buggers back in the pot and have them reborn anew. I can't for the life of me figure out why I would want to putz around with any kind of spring clip, although I will say my present plan is for boolits that will easily stand on their own hind legs, .458, and if I decide to fool with .22 caliber ones I might want a better way.

Jim, thanks especially for your input, I think PC will be perfect for what I want it for.

Randy

We are NOT talking about taking PC off boolits, but off the oven glass door using 0000 steel wool and acetone. I like to see very well thru the door to watch when the powder turns shiny and start the 10 min timing of the bake.

Definitely remelt if a problem on your slugs! It floats to the top just like other crud.

Coating 9-45's it is definitely doable to just sit them on ther hind ends. That is how I have ALWAYS done it!

223's and 30's are a bit different.....they will NOT stand up on their own when you move the rack to the oven. You need something to hold them in place!!!!!!!! Or you play 52 pick-up all the time.

bangerjim

[MostlyOnThePaper]

Hah, that's funny, boy did I miss the boat :)

[bangerjim]

Hah, that's funny, boy did I miss the boat :)

Tooot.........toooooooooot!!!!!!!!!:kidding:

banger

[Beagle333]

.458s will stand. Did you see my post #505? I didn't knock over a one! :D

They would not stand on the nut side of the tray though, only the flat side. :roll: