32-20 revolver loads

[andremajic]

Hey guys!

I thought it would be a good idea to start a thread discussing some "pet loads" for the 32-20 (revolver) as most all the reloading info out there is for rifle pressures, and I've been extremely frustrated not to find any information that I could use in print.

My pet load:

85 gr Lyman 312 plain based bullet with WW alloy (drops at .311), sized and lubed in a .312 sizer with NRA formula.
Swagged to final size as a round nosed wad cutter (.312") in homemade CH swag-o-matic dies and press. (Gets rid of improperly filled flaws and rounded bases!)
Mixed brass head-stamp WW, RP
CCI #200 Small rifle primers
4 gr W231 powder
Medium crimp at front crimp groove.
Chronograph at 785-850 FPS.
Point of aim was at 12 o'clock at a paper plate at 25 yards off a steady rest.
Grouped inside the pie plate without anything missing.

Fired from a 1925 era Colt new army special revolver with 5 inch barrel
At 15-20 yards will knock down the 6-8" steel plates every time! (When aimed at 12 o'clock)

Yes, I am extremely happy that I finally found a load for this light weight bullet!
Recoil is almost non existent and similar to a light 38 Special.

Please share any successes that you've had. Maybe they can add our data to the archives after some consensus has been reached.
Many thanks to NoZombies for his help troubleshooting my issues!

[Harry O]

For a 1931 Colt Police Positive Special: An RCBS 98gr RN-FP ( or just about any other 90gr to 100gr soft lead bullet ) and 2.85gr of Trail Boss. It is no more powerful than factory lead bullet loads and the TB pretty much fills the case under the seated bullet. I have used small amounts of Red Dot, Bullseye, 231, and Unique in the past, but they only fill the case 1/4 to 1/3 full. I bent this gun with more powerful loads in the past so I am very careful about not exceeding factory pressures now.

For a rechambered S&W NewModel 16 K-frame: A hard cast 115gr Lyman 311008 or a 100gr Hornady XTP with 6.0gr of SR4756. This is more powerful that factory loads and should not be used in older or smaller revolvers.

For a Marlin 1894 made in the early 1990's: A hard cast 115gr Lyman 311316-GC or a 100gr Remington FN-SP with 12 gr of 2400. Again, this is way over factory 32-20 load pressures and should not be used in revolvers (other than maybe the Ruger Blackhawk).

[leftiye]

Harry is verry right in pointing out that the gun is verry much the guiding factor in what to load in a 32-20. You can run 50,000 psi in a Buckeye special Blackhawg. Brass wont like it much probly, but probly safe (I've stuck cases in my .30 carbine black hawk). 28,000 psi. is a good upper limit in most modern guns IMO. The manuals make a real frustrating search for these hotter loads. Have you looked at Water's Pet Loads?

[Scharfschuetze]

My plinking load with a 5" S&W Hand Ejector is:

100 grain SWC PB sized to .312
Remington 1 1/2 primers
R-P Cases with a moderate crimp
2.8 gr Bullseye

Average for 12 shots: Vel 714 fps, SD 17, ES 49
Accurate enough with 12 shot groups holding the 8 ring on a 50' NRA slow fire target at 50.'

I neck size until the cases start to split lengthwise, which they usually do after about five to six loads. Once the first cases of a lot start to split, I start over with a new lot of brass. I'm used to getting a lot more loads from straight wall revolver cases; but, as you all know, the 32/20 has pretty thin case walls. Fortunately, I laid in a large stock of cases when I bought the revolver many years ago.

The load shoots without leading and shoots to the point of aim at 25 yards. Can't ask for more than that from a pistol made about the time your Dad was born.

For some reason I've never been able to duplicate the ballistic uniformity with the 32/20 that I get with straight wall revolver calibres. Extreme spreads and the SD are always above what I consider good, but the bullets all seem to group well out to 50 yards or so. Unique seems to be the worst offender for extreme spreads. Next time I get the old gal out I want to try Tight Group powder as that has proven to be very consistent and virtually position insensitive.

[Green Frog]

Hey guys!

I thought it would be a good idea to start a thread discussing some "pet loads" for the 32-20 (revolver) as most all the reloading info out there is for rifle pressures, and I've been extremely frustrated not to find any information that I could use in print.

My pet load:

85 gr Lyman 312 plain based bullet with WW alloy (drops at .311), sized and lubed in a .312 sizer with NRA formula.
Swagged to final size as a round nosed wad cutter (.312") in homemade CH swag-o-matic dies and press. (Gets rid of improperly filled flaws and rounded bases!)
Mixed brass head-stamp WW, RP
CCI #200 Small rifle primers
4 gr W231 powder
Medium crimp at front crimp groove.
Chronograph at 785-850 FPS.
Point of aim was at 12 o'clock at a paper plate at 25 yards off a steady rest.
Grouped inside the pie plate without anything missing.

Fired from a 1925 era Colt new army special revolver with 5 inch barrel
At 15-20 yards will knock down the 6-8" steel plates every time! (When aimed at 12 o'clock)

Yes, I am extremely happy that I finally found a load for this light weight bullet!
Recoil is almost non existent and similar to a light 38 Special.

Please share any successes that you've had. Maybe they can add our data to the archives after some consensus has been reached.
Many thanks to NoZombies for his help troubleshooting my issues!

OK, how does your lube/sizer size the bullet UP by .001"? I see you put in the word "swagged" which implies that maybe you are swaging the bullet, but that wasn't what you said. Clarification, please. :???:I've got a couple moulds for heavier bullets (between 95 and 110 grains) that I like to use. I haven't developed any new loads for a recently acquired 1920s vintage S&W MP in 32-20, but I'll come back with results when I do. :coffeecom

Froggie

[rintinglen]

My 1927 Colt Police Positive likes the the 98 Grain RCBS Wadcutter over 3.0 grains of Unique. In my older S&W M&P, I use a 95 grain round nose SAECO boolit over 4.3 grains of Unique. I have used boolits as light as the 77 grain (my alloy) Ranch Dog boolit, and as heavy as the 311-465 122 grain Lyman, but to get POI and POA somewhere close together, I find the middle of the road the best.

[Wayne Smith]

OK, how does your lube/sizer size the bullet UP by .001"? I see you put in the word "swagged" which implies that maybe you are swaging the bullet, but that wasn't what you said. Clarification, please. :???:I've got a couple moulds for heavier bullets (between 95 and 110 grains) that I like to use. I haven't developed any new loads for a recently acquired 1920s vintage S&W MP in 32-20, but I'll come back with results when I do. :coffeecom

Froggie

Froggie, the CH Swage-O-Matic is a swage press. It is the half jacket swage press that can be used to swage boolits, too. Best way to do this is to lube them first, then you keep the lube grooves. I would love to find a set of .32 dies for my Herter's copy. Rick (Buckshot) currently has my .38 set to make a set of nose punches for a .401 and .452 set of dies I got Dave to make from some of the old CH blanks he had.

[NoZombies]

Glad you got the 32-20 going the way you like Andy!

[ebner glocken]

I'm still trying to figure out a load for this one. I tried 3.0 red dot and stuck a 100 gr rainer in it. It's a back burner project to say the least.

[fouronesix]

For 32-20 revolver (Colt SAA)- 2.2 gr Trailboss under 76 gr plain base or 115 gr GC.

For carbine or rifle (Win 92, Win 73)- 11.5 gr Rel 7 under 115 gr GC.

[andremajic]

Froggie, the CH Swage-O-Matic is a swage press. It is the half jacket swage press that can be used to swage boolits, too. Best way to do this is to lube them first, then you keep the lube grooves. I would love to find a set of .32 dies for my Herter's copy. Rick (Buckshot) currently has my .38 set to make a set of nose punches for a .401 and .452 set of dies I got Dave to make from some of the old CH blanks he had.

Yep, sorry it took so long. I'd forgot about the thread I started!
Wayne is absolutely correct. I used a light duty swaging press.

I made the swage die body out of a barrel stub cutoff and bored it out to 1/2" then pressed in a 5/16" hardened drill bushing with an outside diameter of 1/2".
The ejector pin was made out of another piece of mystery metal that I turned down to rough size and polished with sandpaper until I got it to .311" diameter.
I didn't put a bleed hole in the die, but you don't need one as long as you have it set to the correct height. Too much squeezing will cause the lead to seep between the top punch and die body.

The swaging die is mainly used to just "bump up" the diameter of the boolit and not to do any heavy duty swaging.

[Guesser]

I've been using Ideal 3118 since 1956 in several single action and DA Colts. The newest is a 1925 PPS. Since Trail Boss hit the market I have been using it. Accuracy and consistancy are dramatically improved with TB. I use what the book would call a max charge judging by powder level just at base of bullet.

[smkummer]

A post WW1 Colt army special in 32-20 is no weak gun. Lots of meat between chambers and the forcing cone is thick as it was originally considered a 41 frame. I am not currently loading 32-20 but was for a friend with a SAA 20 some years ago. We did fire some early Lyman loads for revolvers that sounded about like any magnum. We did back the loads down for pleasure shooting and so it wouldn't ring our ears even with ear plugs. Watch out for lead build up in the forcing cone especially if switching to jacketed loads.

[Hickory]

88213
I bought this several years ago for my son.
It's an Army 32-20 Colt, I haven't shot it very much
and to be honest I don't know how it shoots.
But it is a good strong gun.
88214

[Bret4207]

OOOOOOO!!! 32-20 gun PORN! I'm getting all flustered!!!!!

I'm still happy with the very first mould I ever bought, a Lyman 311316 sized .313 in my Colt Army Special. I forget the latest powder charge I used, which is proof I need to start shooting more! Used 10.0 grs 2400 for decades, hence, I'm deaf. It's a bit rough on brass anyway. I think I went with Ken Waters advice from Pet Loads last time and was well pleased.

Dang man, I got to stop working and get some trigger time in........

[9.3X62AL]

Ken Waters' "Pet Load" for the 32-20 WCF revolvers was 115 grain cast bullets atop 6.0 grains of SR-4756. I've run that load a little in my S&W M&P and Colt Bisley, but 90% of the time I use 5.5 grains of the same fuel. Mr. Waters noted--and I've seen similar outcomes--that the SR-4756 loads don't show the wide swings in velocity often seen in revolvers and loads in this caliber. I recently ran the 5.5 grain load under a 120 grain casting that I scrawled together on Mountain Molds' software in a new-to-me Colt Army Special x 5", and the loads ran right to the sights at 25 and 50 yards. It does similar work in the BisColt and the M&P. No real need to turn wrenches on this load that i can see, but the results using Trail Boss are intriguing enough that I'll back-fill some portion of my empties from the Colt A/S shooting trip with that fuel just for drill.

[Harry O]

Ken Waters' "Pet Load" for the 32-20 WCF revolvers was 115 grain cast bullets atop 6.0 grains of SR-4756.

That is where I got my S&W K-frame load. He was right. It is the best load I have tried for a 32-20 handgun, as long as the gun is heavy enough to take it. I shoot more of that powder in the 32-20 than I do with Trail Boss or 2400.

I believe (from memory) he was using a S&W K-frame in his tests. As has been mentioned, the Colt Army Special is another beefy 32-20. I do NOT believe he tried a Colt PPS, though. That one is a lot smaller and considerably more delicate. I am speaking from experience here. I would never use that load (or even a 5.5gr load) in my PPS.

Interestingly enough, I have tried SR-4756 in the .32 Magnum. The results were not bad, but not nearly as good as with the 32-20. I have also tried it in a .357 Magnum and a .30 Carbine. So far, I have not found another cartridge that it works as well as it does for the 32-20. I have also found that if you reduce the load it does not work as well. I got down to 5.0gr in tests and the results were mediocre to poor.

[9.3X62AL]

For a time, I had a Colt PPS x 4" in 32-20. I used 5.0 x SR-4756 in it with the RCBS 98 SWC, and it shot pretty well for me. I was always REAL CAUTIOUS about that little D-frame, or any others for that matter. One of my friends at work COULD NOT LIVE without that odd-caliber PPS, so off it went--and he still has it and shoots it with light loadings of some kind. I had the BisColt, and the M&P came along fairly soon after the PPS departed. I use the 10% download most of the time, out of an abundance of caution with my out-of-print war toys......for which parts and competent mechanics are few and far between.

[Outpost75]

Thought I would dust off this old thread and see if there are any new lurkers out there who like the .32-20 revolvers.

Mine is a Colt Police Positive Special with 5" barrel, made in 1924. Cylinder throats are .314" diameter, cylinder gap is pass 0.005", hold 0.006", barrel groove diameter .313". Gun shoots to the sights with Remington factory 100-grain lead loads, which can be very closely approximated with the Accurate 31-105T bullet and 3.1-3.2 grains of Bullseye, which is a safe, standard-pressure load for the pre-WW2 revolvers.

This bullet is a double-crimp-groove design optimized for dual-use in the .32 S&W Long and .32-20 revolvers. For use in the .32 S&W Long you crimp in the rear crimp groove, seating the bullet out and load 2.4-2.5 grains of Bullseye. For the .32-20 to fit within the cylinder length of the S&W M1905 Hand Ejector and Colt Police Positive use the front crimp groove. Do not exceed this charge in the pre-WW2 S&W and Colt revolvers.

I cast bullets of 1:30 tin-lead from Roto Metals, lubricate bullets with Lee Liquid Alox and load as-cast and unsized at .314".

201219201220

[Green Frog]

Thanks, Outpost75... this will give me a little more incentive to dust off the S&W M&P in 32-20 as well as the Navy Arms/Uberti SAA in the same caliber. Unfortunately the S&W predates the improved heat treating so I don't want to push it quite so hard. :Fire:

Regards from the Piedmont,
Froggie

[Outpost75]

Thanks, Outpost75... this will give me a little more incentive to dust off the S&W M&P in 32-20... Unfortunately the S&W predates the improved heat treating so I don't want to push it quite so hard. :Fire: Regards from the Piedmont, Froggie

The 3.0-3.2 grain load of Bullseye should be perfectly fine in the pre-1918 S&W .32-20 Hand Ejector, as it is a standard pressure load, 770-830 fps. Some data sources go higher, up to 3.4 grains, 900 fps, but I don't recommend it in the older guns. You have to be careful not to shoot Ken Water's loads intended for the later heat-treated models in it, because you will loosen up and shake the gun apart.

[Green Frog]

That reinforces what I had read and calculated myself... always a good thing (or at least reassuring.) I'm probably not going to do much with the old S&W since it has such limited strength. Instead, if it proves sufficiently accurate, the Uberti SAA seems like a better candidate as "test mule." This is one of the ones that Val had his gunsmith go through and do an action job along with putting in Wolff springs... sort of like the deluxe Smoke Wagons that Taylor's does now. I have pretty high hopes for that one. :Fire:

Froggie

PS I think I have an appropriate rotor for one of my old Pcific Pistol Powder Measure that I can dedicate t my "finalized" load. :)

[9.3X62AL]

Caution on loadings strength in older 32/20 WCF wheelguns is always good policy. I cobbled up a revolver-specific 32/20 bullet design about 10 years ago, my MMSFT (Mountain Molds Short Fat Thirty). It falls out at .315" in pure lead and not quite .316" in 92/6/2. Weight range is 121-119 grains. It gets 5.0-5.5 grains of SR-4756 historically, and now that IMR has stopped shipping SR-4756 I am exploring Herco as its replacement. In a couple other (stronger) calibers, it seems to run neck-and-neck yield-wise/grain-for-grain with SR-4756 testing moderate and higher-end pressure levels in magnum revolvers (2 examples each in 357 and 44 Magnum).

[Outpost75]

FYI here is what Accurate 31-105T bullet looks like alongside classic factory lead bullets in .32 Colt NP and .32-20

My mold arrived in ten days from order!

201627

[smkummer]

This is interesting as I see I first responded to this thread back in 2013 when all I could contribute was what I knew reloading for someone else. Since then, I have acquired both a Colt police positive special and an Army Special in this caliber. Ideal single cavity mold number 3118 also. So I have settled on the old data of 4.5 grains unique behind the hard cast 115 grain bullet. Shoots to the sights in both guns (both with a 5" barrel), book data says 925 FPS and really feels no different than if I were firing a standard 38 special out of either gun.

[Outpost75]

The 925 fps figure is a bit optimistic for a revolver, as the factories base their velocities on a 6" solid test barrel. In a 5" revolver with cylinder gap at mean assembly tolerance of 0.005" I would expect 850 +/- 30 fps with the expectation of +10 fps for each inch of additional barrel length or 0.001" reduction in cylinder gap. At least, that is "normal" for standard pressure .38 Special and I would not expect .32-20 to be any different.

Jacketed 100-grain softpoint .32-20 bullets normally run .310-.311" diameter and because typical revolver cylinder throats normally run .313-.315, you can expect significant velocity loss caused by gas leakage around the bullet. If barrel-cylinder gap is also towards the maximum of 0.008" the combined velocity loss can be 100 fps or more and you run the risk of sticking a bullet in the barrel. While jacketed .32-20 ammo is "safe" pressure-wise, I do not recommend it in revolvers having loose cylinder gaps of over 0.008"!

I pulled down some .32-20 factory loads to measure bullet diameters and weigh powder charges, and thought the info would be of interest, so am posting it here. When time and weather permit, I also plan to chronograph these loads out of the 5" Colt and a 25" Savage boltgun, so that we have a solid benchmark for what the vintage factory loads really did, having tested multiple samples of ammo manufactured over the period from the 1930s into the current era.

Rem-UMC headstamp, dark green Bridgeport "Dogbone" box (1930s), bullet dia. .314" cup based, knurled cannelure and black grease, 10 grains single-perforated flake, gray-green color, believed Hercules Sharpshooter.

R-P headstamp, large type, mint green and white Bridgeport box with red overprint (1960s), bullet dia. .314" knurl and lube same as above, 4.5 grains round flake, gray-green not perforated, believed Hercules Infallible

W-W headstamp, nickel plated, round domed primer, yellow box (1970s), .313" bullet unplated, knurled cannelure, white wax lube, 6.5 grains black rolled Ball powder, believed WC630

W-W headstamp, nickel plated, flat-domed primer, white box with red and blue overprint (1990s), .311" bullet, knurled cannelure, white wax lube, 3.5 grains green-gray rolled Ball powder, believed WC231

R-P headstamp, nickel plated, flat domed primer, olive green and yellow box with Bridgeport, CT address (late 1970s), .311" bullet, knurled groove, dry graphite lube, 4.5 grains round flake not perforated, appearance similar to PB.

R-P headstamp, nickel plated, flat domed primer, olive green and yellow box with Loanoke, AR address (2000), .311" bullet is smooth sided without cannelure, dry graphite lube, 3.1 grains small gray-green flake, granulation resembles Bullseye.

[Scharfschuetze]

Nice looking 32/20 revolvers throughout the thread and good information as well.

While I have both a 32/20 rifle (Marlin 1894) and a Smith & Wesson revolver, I keep the rifles loads separate from the revolver loads, although I don't hesitate to shoot the revolver loads in the rifle.

I didn't post a photo of my revolver in my original post, but here it is. A Third Model S&W Hand Ejector with the 6" tube.

[9.3X62AL]

Rifle-level loads get put up in Starline brass; R-P and W-W brass are handgun-level loadings at my house.

[Outpost75]

Rifle-level loads get put up in Starline brass; R-P and W-W brass are handgun-level loadings at my house.

Same here!

201893201895201894

[Dan Cash]

I obtained a .32-20 Marlin about 3 years ago and began feeding it some loads I made for my shooting partner's 92 win. They are Starline cases with the Accurate 31-105 T bullet over 10 grain of 2400 and a Remington standard small rifle primer. Probably not the best/most accurate load in this caliber but I have lots of 2400 and it works. I found the load to be rough on the brass.

A .32-20 Colt Army Special come to live with me and I did not care for the 10 grain load in that revolver. A bit of tinkering and some chronographing led me to settle on 9.4 gr. 2400 with the other components being the same. The revolver likes the load, brass lasts longer and it works well in the rifle. Later, an Uberti 1873 SA joined the stables and it too does very well with the 9.4 grain load.

The .32-20s get shot more than any other handgun that I own, usually about 12 rounds a day from the six guns and random shooting when I am out with the rifle which is always in my truck. I refuse to make different loads for rifle and pistol for the same reason I don't put .357 loads in .38 cases; they will get mixed up with unpleasant results.

[rintinglen]

My solution to the problem of Rifle vs Revolver loads is to load my pistol loads with RCBS or NOE wadcutters and then the Rifle loads with the RCBS 32-98 SWC. Revolver loads get 3.2 grains of ww-231 while the rifle gets 5.0 grains of Unique. The Lee Factory Crimp Die will pay for itself in cases not damaged by crimping. I have a Police Positive Special from about 1932, a 1919 S&W hand ejector and an Army Special. The Army Special is the most accurate.

The rifle still gets shot, but these days my Single Sevens get most of the Fun--the 327 loads easier and shoots straighter. I'm looking for a 22 Hornet Handi-rifle to convert to 327.202478

[Outpost75]

...Starline cases with the Accurate 31-105 T bullet over 10 grain of 2400 and a Remington standard small rifle primer...I found the load to be rough on the brass.

A .32-20 Colt Army Special come to live with me and I did not care for the 10 grain load in that revolver. A bit of tinkering and some chronographing led me to settle on 9.4 gr. 2400 with the other components being the same. The revolver likes the load, brass lasts longer and it works well in the rifle. Later, an Uberti 1873 SA joined the stables and it too does very well with the 9.4 grain load... I refuse to make different loads for rifle and pistol for the same reason I don't put .357 loads in .38 cases; they will get mixed up with unpleasant results.

Dan, thanks, good info!

What velocity did you get with the 9.4 of Alliant #2400 with Accurate 31-105T in revolver vs. rifle.

I have some loaded with 8.4 grains, but haven't shot them over the screens yet.
A wee bit of unburned powder, but not objectionable. I'm using Remington 1-1/2s, maybe I should try a magnum primer.
Current Speer manual at least in .357 no longer recommends magnum primers with #2400...

3.2 of Bullseye very accurate, mild like factory load.

[9.3X62AL]

Not meaning to stray far off-topic here......but in my small-capacity rifle cases like 22 Hornet, 25/20 WCF, 30 U.S. Carbine, and 32/20 WCF the use of Rem #6-1/2 primers enhanced grouping and shot-to-shot consistency over that given by CCI and Winchester small rifle primers. My understanding is that the Rem 6-1/2's characteristics are optimized for these smaller case sizes, while their #7-1/2 primers are meant for the 222 Rem & 223 Rem-class casing sizes. I have yet to try the 6-1/2s in 32/20 revolver applications, but it might be worthy of exploration if ignition issues are cropping up--especially over-ignition shoving bullets out prematurely.

[Dan Cash]

Dan, thanks, good info!

What velocity did you get with the 9.4 of Alliant #2400 with Accurate 31-105T in revolver vs. rifle.

I have some loaded with 8.4 grains, but haven't shot them over the screens yet.
A wee bit of unburned powder, but not objectionable. I'm using Remington 1-1/2s, maybe I should try a magnum primer.
Current Speer manual at least in .357 no longer recommends magnum primers with #2400...

3.2 of Bullseye very accurate, mild like factory load.

Outpost,
I had to go back and re chronograph the 9.4 gr 2400 load so I did that about 5 minutes ago. I shot 5 shot strings through each of 3 guns. Average was: 5 1/2 in Uberti, 1250; 5 1/2 Colt Army Special, 1200, and Marlin 20" 94, 1700. Accuracy is quite good and the little bullet makes a terrible wound in porcupines, skunks, prairie dogs etc. Leading is nonexistant.

[Outpost75]

Thx. Dan. I think my 8.4 grain load will be closer to the level I want to shoot in my Police Positive Special, probably better to reduce to 8.0!

[9.3X62AL]

Whew! STALWART ballistics in a handgun from that 9.4 x 2400 dosage. 1700 FPS in the long gun is definite "rifle country" for me. Good to know, all the same. Many thanks.

This will sound over-cautious and rather indulgent to my 32/20 sideiron, but having a 30 Carbine Blackhawk--a S&W Model 16-4 x 6" in 32 H&R Mag--and now a Ruger SP-101 x 4.2" in 327 Federal, I really can't justify getting creative with loadings for my older revolvers, all of which are near or past the century-old mark. That Blackhawk does a real good job already of precipitating earthquakes in fault zones with its report, and the 327 promises similar exhilarations.

By the same token, I do want to exploit whatever reasonable performance envelope that the cartridge offers mindful of its platform's mechanical integrity. It is clear from Outpost's survey of factory cartridge offerings in the caliber--esp. the more recent editions--that the 32/20 is loaded down to "Lowest common denominator" levels. That might be appropriate for some Spanish clone of a S&W or perhaps a Colt PPS, but those of us with good-order wheelguns of strength can obtain better performance and enhanced accuracy by grooming our ammo for the arms being reloaded for. That's why we got into this hobby initially, right?

[Outpost75]

... I do want to exploit whatever reasonable performance envelope that the cartridge offers mindful of its platform's mechanical integrity. It is clear from Outpost's survey of factory cartridge offerings in the caliber--esp. the more recent editions--that the 32/20 is loaded down to "Lowest common denominator" levels. That might be appropriate for some Spanish clone of a S&W or perhaps a Colt PPS, but those of us with good-order wheelguns of strength can obtain better performance and enhanced accuracy by grooming our ammo for the arms being reloaded for. That's why we got into this hobby initially, right?

I would agree! I wouldn't recommend loads which appreciably exceed 900 fps with 100-115 grain bullets in the Colt Police Positive Special and the early un-heat-treated S&Ws .32-20 Hand Ejectors.

I find it an interesting observation that the 1851 Colt Navy with round ball and full black powder charge fairly equals the payload and velocity of the .32-20, as do also the .380 ACP and modern "full charge" loads we have discussed here for the .32 ACP and .32 S&W Long. I believe that also defined the performance envelope for a "trail gun" which would be used to gather small game and birds for the pot.

S&W Hand Ejectors made after 1918 and smokeless-frame Colt Single Actions can certainly “modestly exceed” these levels, fully equaling the performance of .32 H&R Magnum factory loads, 1000-1100 fps with 85-100 grain bullets.

But my feeling is that if your satisfaction requires that cylinder flash singe the hair off of your hands, and muzzle flash bring spots before your eyes, then the Ruger Buckeye Special .32 H&R/.32-20 Convertible, the .30 Carbine and .327 Rugers are “your huckleberry.” Such loads offer flatter trajectory and longer range for varmint shooting, but are overly destructive on small game. Whether they would be superior as defense loads is debatable...

But the bottom line for me is please don’t overload and abuse those lovely old classic .32-20s!

[Harry O]

On thing to keep in mind if you have different loads for different guns that take different pressures: In addition to keeping them in clearly marked bags or boxes, also use different bullets for different loads. That way, if they are separated from their boxes, you can tell what is in them. Two very different pressure loads with the same bullet is a recipe for disaster.

For my light load, I use a soft cast RCBS 98gr RNFP. The medium load uses either a 115gr cast hollow-point bullet or a 100gr Hornady STP hollow-point. The heavy rifle load uses Remington 100gr jacketed flat-nose soft-points.

I would never use some of the loads suggested here in my Colt Police Positive Special. It is one of the lightest 32-20 handguns made. Of course, I already bent it once with one cylinder of "rifle only" factory loads. To each his own, however.

[9.3X62AL]

My 32/20 loads are pretty discernible between modest-for-wheelguns and stalwart-for-levergun. If there is a shadow of doubt, into the Marlin it goes.

[Green Frog]

So does the modern made Uberti copy of a SAA give me a strong enough platform for the "healthy" 32-20 loads or am I still going to have to limit myself to the "old revolver" levels? I'm trying to consolidate the number of guns I have, and have already decided that the "antique" S&W 32-20 M&P is going to go down the road as will a couple of other under utilized or less appreciated items, and I need to decide whether my current holdings will enable a somewhat high performance 32-20 or whether I've got to step back and try to find a different gun (like the Buckeye Special I so foolishly sold 25 years ago, perhaps?) Decisions, decisions... :coffee:

Froggie

[Outpost75]

If you really feel the need to make your hand sting and your ears ring, just get a .30 Carbine Ruger of late production which you can use the Starline 1.285" .32-20 brass in, straight up.

[Bent Ramrod]

I had a Police Positive Special and currently have an Army Special in .32-20. But as far as I am concerned, the cartridge doesn't really sit up and talk until it's in a .45 frame like the Single Action Army. In the smaller frames, IMHO, the full potential can't be exploited in smokeless loadings.

Elmer Keith mentioned ten grains of 2400 behind the 115gr boolit for a ".32 Magnum" load. I chickened out at 9gr behind the 115gr Keith Group Buy boolit of a few years back. I wouldn't dare use it in the Army Special, and the PPS is long gone, but it really shines in my Cimarron Uberti 7-1/2" SAA and my heavily modified Bisley Colt.

Funny; I've never gotten more than mediocre accuracy in rifles with that boolit, but for a revolver, it's the Ace.

[salvadore]

My OP hasn't had any jacketed, but have pushed lead pretty fast and accurately. Also, my 94 CL has been accurate from <1000fps to close to 1900fps with both cast and jacketed. One of my favorite cartridges.

[ndnchf]

I thought I'd ressurrect this old thread.

Lately I've been wanting a period .32-20 revolver to go along with my #2 rolling blocks in .32 Ballard extra long and .32-20. Well, today at a local gunshow, I found this beauty. It's a .32-20 Colt Army Special, made in 1916. It has about 85% of its original bluing and an excellent bore.

I have a good bit of .32-20 rifle ammo loaded. But I'll load up some appropriate handgun loads for it. There is good info in this thread, but hoping to see more. Please share your vintage revolver loads.

[Outpost75]

For the Colt Police Positive and Army Special use 3.2 to 3.4 grains of Bullseye or TiteGroup with Accurate 31-105T cast 1 to 30 tin-lead, or 4 grains of 231 or WST, 5 grains of AutoComp, 7 grains of #2400 or 9.5 grains of 4227.

[dtknowles]

I have two Dan Wesson mod. 15 frames with three cylinders, one cylinder is a 32-20. I have an 8" .308 barrel and I use bullets sized to .311 and .312. I am having another barrel made it will be 4". I have shrouds in 4, 6 and 8 inches but I don't have a blank to make a 6" barrel right now. I have a friend who can do the machining.

I have been shooting mild loads with the 86 gr. Lee round nose. Something like 4 gr. of green dot. I have not crono'd them but they are more accurate than the .357 loads I was shooting in the same guns. I have someone's magazine article with three levels of loads for different strength guns but I can't put my hands on it right now.

I have not pumped up the loads because I don't need more power and if I did I could switch to .357 and if I need even more power I could break out the Super Mag in .357 Max.

My 8" .308 barrel is a 1x12 twist but the new 4 inch barrel will be a 1x20 twist.

Tim

[ndnchf]

I don't have the Accurate 31-105T mold. But I have an Ideal 3118 and original Winchester .32wcf mold, both about 115gr. Appropriate powders on hand I have are Unique, Trail Boss (?), 2400, 4227, Titegroup. I haven't slugged the bore yet, but it seems people are doing well with .312" or .313" sized bullets.

[Outpost75]

I don't have the Accurate 31-105T mold. But I have an Ideal 3118 and original Winchester .32wcf mold, both about 115gr. Appropriate powders on hand I have are Unique, Trail Boss (?), 2400, 4227, Titegroup. I haven't slugged the bore yet, but it seems people are doing well with .312" or .313" sized bullets.

Those loads I quoted should be OK with #3118 if cast in soft alloy and you seat bullets out and crimp in the top lube groove. You might need to trim cases a little to clear the cylinder in doing so.

[ndnchf]

I made up two loads, both with a 115gr. Hunter Supply flat nose bullet. The first was with 2.4gr of Trail Boss. The second with 3.0gr of Titegroup. They both shot well, right to point of aim at 8 yards. The TB load was pretty light. The Titegroup load a little stronger, but it just felt "right". The Colt has nice, crisp trigger pull and really feels nice. I'm very pleased with it.

[smkummer]

I have settled on the 4.5 grains unique as quoted from older Lyman manuals with the 115 grain bullet. It’s pretty flat shooting. Again it feels like shooting a standard 38 special round and out of the army special, mild recoil. I have both a police positive special and army special 5” like yours. If I recall, it shoots really close to the sights as well. Because I have the police positive special as well, I have ammo that is fine for both.

[blue32]

The following are lower loads for my Uberti SAA 5.5" clone in 32-20:
RCBS 32-098-SWC in range scrap, 3.6 gr. W231, COAL: 1.550", 783 fps, ES 62
RCBS 32-098-SWC in range scrap, 3.7 gr. W231, COAL: 1.550", 882 fps, ES 45

I took the RCBS up to 7.8 gr. 2400 but don't have the chrono data on hand. There were a few flakes of unburnt powder that didn't go away until I loaded over published max for handguns. 32-20 is a very versatile cartridge. Good for plinking cans with old guns or running with the 327 crowd if you have a modern example.

ndnchf, that is a sweet shooter you have. I've been eyeing a minty S&W 1905 hand ejector in 32-20 at my local shop for 2 years.

[oscarflytyer]

Need to go thru this as I start casting for a pair of 32-20s.

[Green Frog]

The following are lower loads for my Uberti SAA 5.5" clone in 32-20:
RCBS 32-098-SWC in range scrap, 3.6 gr. W231, COAL: 1.550", 783 fps, ES 62
RCBS 32-098-SWC in range scrap, 3.7 gr. W231, COAL: 1.550", 882 fps, ES 45

I took the RCBS up to 7.8 gr. 2400 but don't have the chrono data on hand. There were a few flakes of unburnt powder that didn't go away until I loaded over published max for handguns. 32-20 is a very versatile cartridge. Good for plinking cans with old guns or running with the 327 crowd if you have a modern example.

ndnchf, that is a sweet shooter you have. I've been eyeing a minty S&W 1905 hand ejector in 32-20 at my local shop for 2 years.

Do you consider your Uberti SAA as being modern because of age and materials or antique because of design aspects?

Froggie

[Outpost75]

Do you consider your Uberti SAA as being modern because of age and materials or antique because of design aspects?

Froggie

I would treat the Uberti clones the same as I would my 1905 Colt. Their metallurgy is similar, plain carbon steel quenched and tempered about Rb80-90. But a .32-20 is sturdier than a .45 Colt or .44-40 of the same model simply because it has "more meat on its bones." Just don't get stupid.

Smokeless loads which equal the full-charge black powder ballistics are best. About 1000 fps from a 5-1/2" gun with cylinder gap of 0.006-0.008" firing 115-grain bullet similar to #3118 is as high as you should go. Blue32's loads are where I would start, then work up cautiously for best accuracy. No more than 3.5 grains of Bullseye or TiteGroup, 4 grains of 231 or HP38, 4.5 of Unique, 5 grains of AutoComp or Herco, 10 grains of IMR4227 or 7.5 grains of Alliant #2400 which are all max. for the Colt SA, Army Special and Police Positive. In heat-treated S&W Hand Ejectors produced after 1918 and the Colt Official Police, you can go more, but I really don't see the need.

[ndnchf]

I'm pretty satisfied with 3.0gr of Titegroup and a 115gr bullet in my Army Special. It shoots great, no need to stress the old boy.

[blue32]

The following load data is beyond any published max loads I've found printed or otherwise. They were worked up carefully in my revolver.

For my clone, I've taken the RCBS as high as 10.0 gr 2400, 11.5 gr H110, and 13.5 gr. H4198 (compressed). The 2400 load is the only one I shoot with regularity in my Uberti. I wouldn't try these loads in any other revolver.

[GSP7]

Thirty Two Twenty

259075

[Green Frog]

Well, I decided to bring this old chestnut out of the coals one more time to see whether anyone has anything new to say about the one-time King of the combination guns. A man with a Winchester or a Marlin lever gun and a Colt SAA in the late 1800s or a S&W M&P in the early 1900s was well equipped for most field events, since everybody knew "A 32-20 will shoot clean through a man!"

I'm still fighting off the temptation to have a second cylinder chambered in 32-20 by Andy Horvath and fitted to my "Project 616" to make the ultimate 21st Century gun for range and field. Somebody please stage an intervention... I already have a couple of 32-20 revolvers!

Froggie

[Dale53]

Froggie;
I think you would be better served to have an extra cylinder chambered for your 616 in .32 H&R. It would make better sense as a range gun (excellent results for both target and edible small game use) with those great straight wall cases with excellent case life and really good accuracy results with light loads.

Just a thought or two.

Dale53

[rintinglen]

quote "I think you would be better served to have an extra cylinder chambered for your 616 in .32 H&R.

That would be pointless--his 616 is a 327 Federal Magnum.

[Dale53]

quote "I think you would be better served to have an extra cylinder chambered for your 616 in .32 H&R.

That would be pointless--his 616 is a 327 Federal Magnum.

Well, perhaps. Frankly, for most uses, the .32 H&R, IMHO, is a better cartridge. When using target level loads, the .32 H&R doesn't have the velocity swings that the .327 does and just flat generally shoots more accurately. The .327 has more power at full throttle, but also LOTS more muzzle blast and other than shooting flatter, has little to recommend it over the .32 H&R in a good platform. I flat out LOVE my Model 16-4 (6" barrel) as well as my Model 631 (4" barrel) as a really effective "kit gun".

But, that's just me. Froggie would agree with you, but I will always prefer the .32 H&R for both edible small game as well as range use.

FWIW
Dale53

[rintinglen]

Had I the fortune to get a 16-4, back when they were $367 new at my local gun store, I might never have had a .327. That was 27 or so years ago. But now I have 4, and I like them immensely. The 7 1/2 inch Single 7 is perhaps the most accurate revolver I own and shoots nearly as well with the H&R cartridges as it does with 327's.
My Sp101 is also pretty handy, but to wander back on topic, a spare cylinder in 32-20 would be pretty swell. His 616 could then shoot 32 ACP, 32 S&W, 32 S&W long, 32 H&R, .327 Magnum AND 32-20. Were money no object, I'd be tempted to track down the stuff and build one for my own self. Alas, retirement brings time, but not riches.