Lube sizer question

[DCP]

Lube sizer question (I sure hope this isn't one of those dumb question)

My lube sizer takes round tube with a hole down the middle.(Lyman 450)

I made some soft lube and was pan lubing.

Cant I just break up the lube and fill the lube sizer and compress it.


Thanks

[nhrifle]

Just warm it up till it melts and pour it into the sizer. Easy as it gets.

[DCP]

Just warm it up till it melts and pour it into the sizer. Easy as it gets.

Does it have to be re-melted? I have a heater on the sizer

[357maximum]

Does it have to be re-melted? I have a heater on the sizer


If you just load the sizer with assorted chunks, your sizer will fart and burp and you will have airpocket issues. Melt it, just enough to make it liquid and pour it in......the farting/burping/airpocket issues all gone.

[**oneshot**]

Use a double boiler to heat it and you won't burn off anything in the lube.

[fcvan]

When I made my own lube I used the double boiler method. To fill the Lyman 450 I cut the top off a Mountain Dew plastic bottle. The threads fit snug into the reservoir. I poured until the lube was even with the top of the reservoir. After it cooled a minute or two it shrank down somewhat and I removed my 'funnel.' The cooled lube shrank enough so the pressure nut fit down inside the reservoir almost perfectly. No mess, no fuss.

[DLCTEX]

Isn't it problematic pushing the screw through the lube after it has cooled? I leave space for the nut and insert the pusher assembly while the lube is still liquid.

[Airman Basic]

If you just load the sizer with assorted chunks, your sizer will fart and burp and you will have airpocket issues. Melt it, just enough to make it liquid and pour it in......the farting/burping/airpocket issues all gone.

That's what that is! Blamed it on the dog.

[geargnasher]

Isn't it problematic pushing the screw through the lube after it has cooled? I leave space for the nut and insert the pusher assembly while the lube is still liquid.

It takes just a few inch/pounds of force to pull the moulded "threads" out of the cooled lube, not really a problem. I've found that when the lube cools and contracts, it "cores", leaving a large, tubular air pocket in the lube column, so I pour some melted lube into a room-temp sizer reservoir, let it mostly solidify, then top it off to minimize the air pocket, leaving room for the piston as you mentioned. Hot lube can fry your piston o-rings if you're like me and get overzealous with the heat when melting, or use lubes that require over 250F to get liquid enough to pour.

Gear