Lead Removal Agent

[jonp]

What is your favorite lead remover? Feel free to add one that you can get. Liquid Mercury works great but is not exactly lying around on the sidewalk. Chore Boy is fine but I'm looking for a liquid agent to clean the gun.

[Lights]

None of the above. But some copper wool wraped on a old bore brush does a great job in no time. Just apply anything, hoppes #9, CLP etc to it. After a few strokes it's all gown. :drinks: As for liquid remover peroxide works. But I do not like to use chemicals if I don't have to.

[jonp]

indeed, chore boy works great but I'm interested in a liquid cleaner for use when cleaning the barrel

[462]

In my experience, the first four on your list don't remove lead.

[mroliver77]

Proper fitting boolits.
J

[awhiteha]

I love Outer's Foul Out 2, no longer sold. For lead, it does the job in 30 min.

[btroj]

A- don't put the lead there in the first place.
B- use chore boy or steel wool on an old brush. Dry.

[rsrocket1]

Bore mop with bronze wool or chore boy and 15-30 seconds, honestly, no joke. If you want to soak/scrub for hours, be my guest.

77844

[waksupi]

Good barrel + good boolit fit + good lube = no leading to worry about.

[hickfu]

Proper fitting boolits.
J

+1 on that!!! I dont need to remove lead since my boolits dont lead my barrel..... but I only shoot lead in my 45-70 so far and I am working on getting the boolits finished up for the 44 Mag so I am hoping not to have to clean that either..


Doc

[blikseme300]

Hydrogen Peroxide and 10% Vinegar will eat through the leading quickly. Corrosion of the steel might also take place and nevermind the very poisonous sludge. Best is to prevent leading. Size does matter and use good lube. [smilie=l:

[williamwaco]

None of the above.

http://reloadingtips.com/reviews/lead_fouling_removal.htm

The absolute best and cheapest is a worn out bronze brush and bronze wool.

PS: Kroil will eventually get it done but as far as I can tell it is no better in that use than WD-40.

[Foto Joe]

I've had more than enough exposure to toxic chemicals in my lifetime, I even wear nitrile gloves when using Hoppes #9. If I've got leading issues I'd much rather use a mechanical means of removing it than play with more chemicals.

[Shiloh]

Good barrel + good boolit fit + good lube = no leading to worry about.

+1

Shiloh

[dbosman]

I have cleaned stainless steel pistols by putting them (grips removed) in a heavy Zip Lock bag filled with Hoppes.(old formula)
Into that I added an aquarium air stone, connected to a very small air pump. The next day all the oil, grease, carbon, lead, you name it - is gone. Wipe dry, oil and grease as needed, reassemble and all was right with the world.

Your mileage may and probably will, vary. Now that I've been let in on the secret I use Choreboy strands.

[gray wolf]

If I get a little lead at the beginning of the forcing cone and I mean a little,
I just use a small piece of lead remover cloth. My old black hawk hunter needed a steady diet of Chor boy.

[mac60]

Lewis lead remover.

[Harter66]

I've found that all of the chemicals do something, but wool and a brush is way faster. I've had kroil lift some leading and when I start w/and unknown bbl I soak it in kroil it seems to lift more than Hoppes.

As far as lube and wash or powder swabing goes I use Hoppes mostly .

Paper patches do wonders for the pre-enlightenment bbl's..

[Horace]

Kroil+Chore Boy

Horace

[MaryB]

My gun dealer plugs the barrel, adds a little mercury, plugs the other end and tilts it back and forth a few times. Toxic? Yes but effective. I use chore boy on a mop.

[ku4hx]

My experience is if you're using a liquid of any kind, all it does is maybe act as a lubricant of sorts. Vigorous action of the brush, or brush+copper scrub pad, is what removes the lead.

[Sasquatch-1]

I shoot a very soft lead bullet and do get considerable leading. (Before everyone starts talking about fit vs. softness I am aware of it but do not want to go through the expense of replacing molds, sizers and swaging dies.) I have used Hoppes, CLP Breakfree and Shooters choice. None seem to work great. I find the Choreboy on a cleaning jag works best. Thought about getting a Lewis Lead Remover kit but the replacement cost for the little screens can be a hassle.

Can you tell I'm a little tight.

[ACrowe25]

Proper fitting boolits.
J

Seems to work for me, but what do I know lol.

Regardless of hardness fit seems to trump all in the calibers I shoot.

[jonp]

Ok, guys: I am well aware of proper fitting boolits and choreboy. I am specificaly asking about commercial cleanets that will also clean the barrel.

[gray wolf]

I was going to save my #3,000 post for a special occasion, Ya know, get all dressed up and all-- but what the heck.
Give the folks a call that make the wipe out bore cleaner. Get there # off the web sight.
He was making a liquid lead remover that would dissolve the lead and turn it into a compound that could be brushed out of the barrel with a patch.
When I spoke with him he said it worked as long as you used his wipe out after to neutralize the lead remover. The problem he had was the bottles that it was packaged in were not holding up. I don't have a leading problem anymore so I stopped talking to him. He may be able to lead you in the right direction.
It seems you have some kind of special need cause folks have told you how to remove the lead in a barrel or cylinder but it's not doing it for you.

[prs]

I find that 0000 steel wool fluffed out over a patch soaked with either Kroil, Ballistol, or Shooters Choice Lead Remover work well when associated with elbow grease. Which of the liquids used seems to not matter much. Bronze wool works too, but not nearly as fast as the steel variety. All of the Core Boy and Chore Girl copper scrubs sold around here are only copper washed steel gauze, not real copper. An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure, but I still have several hundreds of lead maker rounds loaded from before I got the hang of 45 ACP for my Rugers. Its no big deal other than loss of accuracy after about 50 to 75 rnds. Cleans-up real easy with the super fine steel wool over a lubed patch.

prs

[jonp]

Lol, I don't have a "special need". I can get the lead out just fine with either hoppes #9, ballistol or spraying either on 0000 wool and scrubbing it.
My poll was not A "how do I get lead out of a barrel" question as I could either have just asked or read other threads on here which I have and learned the chore boy trick.:razz:
Ot stems from watching a bunch of "experts" on youtube argue over it and test different compounds so i thought i'd ask here for kicks.
Just favorite commercial or homemade liquids. Not choreboy, steel wool or lead pads or mercury or electric gadjets.

[jonp]

I was going to save my #3,000 post for a special occasion, Ya know, get all dressed up and all-- but what the heck.
Give the folks a call that make the wipe out bore cleaner. Get there # off the web sight.
He was making a liquid lead remover that would dissolve the lead and turn it into a compound that could be brushed out of the barrel with a patch.
When I spoke with him he said it worked as long as you used his wipe out after to neutralize the lead remover. The problem he had was the bottles that it was packaged in were not holding up. I don't have a leading problem anymore so I stopped talking to him. He may be able to lead you in the right direction.
It seems you have some kind of special need cause folks have told you how to remove the lead in a barrel or cylinder but it's not doing it for you.

It says #3001. You dont hail from up Rangely way?

[gray wolf]

A, the counter screwed up
B, I can't count

Yes I am from the Rangeley area--- Why ?
I may not read this thread again so if you need my exact GPS Lat and Lng PM me

[LynC2]

Until I started shooting my Rossi .357 I never had an issue with cast in any of my rifles or pistols. I guess I have been fortunate so far. I found soaking the bore in Kroil over night tends to lift the leading from the bore and a tight fitting patch will push it right out for the most part. If I am in a hurry, the Chore Boy wrapped around a brush does a very good job. The leading so far is not bad, just a bit a few inches up from the chamber. I'm thinking I might firelap it to see if that helps.

[Sasquatch-1]

Just favorite commercial or homemade liquids. Not choreboy, steel wool or lead pads or mercury or electric gadjets.

I think the problem with your poll is you ask for our favorite chemical lead remover. From the responses (mine included) I don't think many favor the chemical route.

[Char-Gar]

Elbow grease

[btroj]

Why use chemicals when they don't work as well as a physical removal method?

Nome of the above wasn't an option on the poll.

[ryan28]

I don't believe there are any effective commercial lead removers that are not harmful to the barrel steel if left in too long. Why take a chance?
If there a product that worked perfectly, with no risk at all, we would all be aware of it by now.

[Slow Elk 45/70]

The list did not include choir boy, steel wool or old used bore brushes.....

I two have used the brush/ steel wool...and always will.. as stated above it is the best lead remover
that I have access to...but it was not included in the choices.:cbpour:...:violin:...:bigsmyl2:

[M-Tecs]

This works great http://www.sharpshootr.com/no-lead.htm

[beefie]

Brownell's says JB Bore cleaner and Kroil. i"ve rarely shot lead in anything but .45, and only rarely over 900 fps. So I don't get lead fouling in my bore.

[Mal Paso]

Ed's Red is better than most of the products listed but I don't put any Chemicals in the bore anymore (I don't shoot jackets). That might ruin the seasoning. Bronze brush and a dry patch.

My first 6 shot group last week was 2", no flyers. For me that's good.

The presence of a Lewis Lead Remover will intimidate leading to the point that it looses all confidence and quits trying. I haven't had mine out of the box in years. It sits on the shelf, a silent threat. I did buy the extra pack of screens. Not sure if they were a waste of money or added to the juju.

[jonp]

Read post #27

One thing I have learned on this site besides invaluable advice on everything to do with boolits is that many suffer from ADD and no matter the question or how specific it is we head off into the weeds every time.

[ku4hx]

Elbow grease

Well ... if you gotta have a "chemical" that actually cuts lead, this is my ultimate choice. It pretty much fits my acceptance criteria perfectly: cheap (h3ll it's free), in plentiful supply, has worked successfully since 1959, very quick delivery, easily transported, environmentally safe, non staining, odorless, colorless and non gumming.

[dragon813gt]

Read post #27

One thing I have learned on this site besides invaluable advice on everything to do with boolits is that many suffer from ADD and no matter the question or how specific it is we head off into the weeds every time.

You think? Your question was worded just fine and made complete sense. But instead of answering with which chemical you keep getting; they don't work :laugh:

[Petrol & Powder]

Lewis lead remover.

Yep!

And Kroil is not perfect but it does help a lot.

[Mal Paso]

Read post #27

One thing I have learned on this site besides invaluable advice on everything to do with boolits is that many suffer from ADD and no matter the question or how specific it is we head off into the weeds every time.

NONE of the products listed is a good lead remover. No product I have tried has done any more than help transport lead freed by mechanical means.

There are formulas that produce toxic waste and risk damage to gun metal and no one here is recommending them.

We were trying to be creative with a question that is a non sequitur.

[RobS]

I made up a gallon jug of Ed's Red. Not a choice on the poll but it works well if left to set and is also good for general use.

[Victor N TN]

Back in the late 1970s there was a tool introduced from Bob Brownell's. It was called the "Lewis Lead Remover". For a hand gun there is nothing better for immediate removal of lead from a pistol barrel. I have seen similar kits from different makers over the years. But I have no experience with them. Basically the kit contains a rubber expandable plug that adjusts when you turn the handle of the included cleaning rod. Before you start you use one piece of the little brass screen wire patches that have been furnished.

As you use it you tighten / twist the handle that expands the rubber plunger head. As the head expands and fills in around the rifling, the lead starts getting pulled loose. As I always did it dry I had a paper towel laying on the bench to catch the little "flakes" of lead as they came out. And that's about what it looks like, little metal looking corn flakes.

I have them in 38 / 9mm and also 45 calibers. Bear in mind my set is close to 40 years old. It has seen some heavy use at times. The little round brass screen patches used to be bought separately from Borwnell's. I'm not really sure where or how expensive they are currently or the availability.


I hope I have helped point you in a direction you may not have known about.

Good luck.

[jonp]

I didnt put Ed's Red as a choice because i'd need 70 choices to list everything out there.
Feel free to comment on anything you use in liquid or spray.
I mixed up some Ed's but didn't see what the fuss was about besides being able to make it myself which i'm all for.

[DougGuy]

I have a Lewis Lead Remover, have had one for 25yrs, and up against a wore out .50 cal brush with a dozen strands of Chore Boy wrapped around it, the Lewis doesn't stand a snowball's chance in h3ll of even coming close.

You can find bronze wool at Ace hardware. Real genuwhine chore boy is hard to find cause the crackheads use it in their pipes and ATF thinks it's the cat's meow for a silencer, but good ol fleabay will have you some at your mailbox lickety split.

One day when I had nothing to do but drive to SEVEN different local stores looking for chore boy, I realized I had already wasted more gas than the shipping from fleabay would have cost, finally found some at the last store.. Ugh..

Beware and read the labels closely, many copper cleaning pads are copper plated steel, avoid these.

[williamwaco]

Lewis lead remover.


+1

That thing is GREAT.

[HangFireW8]

The presence of a Lewis Lead Remover will intimidate leading to the point that it looses all confidence and quits trying. I haven't had mine out of the box in years. It sits on the shelf, a silent threat. I did buy the extra pack of screens. Not sure if they were a waste of money or added to the juju.

Ah that explains it. I bought my LLR years ago to remove store bought boolit lead, and extra screens when I decided to start casting. Haven't used it since!

[RobS]

Agreed a bore brush and some copper or brass stands as working wonders. The Ed's Red just helps loosen things a big. I soak a barrel over night and then come back in the morning, dry patch, Chore Boy on an bore brush for a few strokes up and down the barrel and then another dry patch followed by a wet patch of Ed's Red.

[Foto Joe]

Since my discovery of Chore Boy my Lewis Lead Remover is permanently collecting dust. That and since my learning curve has steepened considerably regarding boolit size I seldom need either unless one of my "experiments" fails to produce positive results.

[Harter66]

Well, to clear up my nickles worth, Kroil has lifted fouling in several ''new to me'' bbls . 1 inparticular seemed to have several layers of separate fouling. changing from Kroil to Hoppes to Birchwood Caseys to 40x to Barns copper solvent resulted in new fouling lifted w/each change. I'd wet it let it soak, scrub it,patch it wet and dry until I got clean white patches . On several occasions when I started the wet patches they actually had visable carbon and metal on them. Unscientificaly Kroil appeared to cause more lifting. 16 sessions w/that rifle before I gave up on ever getting it all out, 7 yr ago. Last yr after the NCBS just for grins after a vigorous cleaning I patched it w/the copper stuff,I still had green stripes but I've decided that it is impacted in nowpolished machine marks. I think the bbl fouling just like carbon fouling in the car engine should get the change up to a different solvent occasionaly. I dare you change you Castrol w/store brand oil then back to Castrol you'll see what I mean in 1000 miles. Do not try it w/Pennsoil or Quakerstate,trust me,it ends badly. In aircraft a switch from AeroShell to Chevron or vicaversa will fill a filter w/carbon.

[zomby woof]

Poll failure I use Chore-boy or brass wool

[2AMMD]

Western Pacific Trading Co. (800) 944-3501 sells bronze wool pads in a couple of grades. Would probably cut lead and not damage barrel. Barrel could be soaked with KROIL or some other lubricant. The lubricant doesn't cut the lead, it wicks between the lead and the barrel loosening the bond. Just my thoughts.

[jonp]

Poll failure I use Chore-boy or brass wool

Reader failure. I was after liquid removers as reading the choices on the poll and comments afterwards would have indicated.

[rsrocket1]

The problem is that the OP doesn't explain why he only wants opinions on liquid only removers. Maybe it's for lead vapor deposits in a compensator or silencer, maybe he only has an eyedropper and has arthritis and can't work a cleaning rod. So for his limited choices, I'll pick Kroil.

I recently did an experiment by shooting a number of unlubed boolits through my M&P 40 to get a nice silver lining in the barrel, then plugged the barrel and soaked it overnight in Kroil. Much of the lead came out the next day as strips of metal, but not all. I finished the cleaning off with a couple of passes with the Chore Boy which got the barrel immaculate. I may try it again with the well known mixture of Acetone and Brake Fluid or Acetone and ATF which is supposed to be a better penetrant than Kroil, but that's only if I feel bored enough for another experiment.

In the mean time, it's the Chore Boy, bore mop and 30 seconds. Hoppe's or CLP works well to first clean out the soot so your bore mop stays white.

[Mal Paso]

Reader failure. I was after liquid removers as reading the choices on the poll and comments afterwards would have indicated.

"We all know" liquid lead removers don't work. I am proposing New Legislation to force manufacturers to come up with a product that works.

[mdi]

Hydrogen Peroxide and 10% Vinegar will eat through the leading quickly. Corrosion of the steel might also take place and nevermind the very poisonous sludge. Best is to prevent leading. Size does matter and use good lube. [smilie=l:

This will work for those of us who ain't perfect and occasionally get leading...

[jonp]

The problem is that the OP doesn't explain why he only wants opinions on liquid only removers. Maybe it's for lead vapor deposits in a compensator or silencer, maybe he only has an eyedropper and has arthritis and can't work a cleaning rod. So for his limited choices, I'll pick Kroil.

I recently did an experiment by shooting a number of unlubed boolits through my M&P 40 to get a nice silver lining in the barrel, then plugged the barrel and soaked it overnight in Kroil. Much of the lead came out the next day as strips of metal, but not all. I finished the cleaning off with a couple of passes with the Chore Boy which got the barrel immaculate. I may try it again with the well known mixture of Acetone and Brake Fluid or Acetone and ATF which is supposed to be a better penetrant than Kroil, but that's only if I feel bored enough for another experiment.

In the mean time, it's the Chore Boy, bore mop and 30 seconds. Hoppe's or CLP works well to first clean out the soot so your bore mop stays white.
You are right on that. I thought that putting up only liquid cleaners was self evident and when it wasn't posted that that was what I was after. From reading this forum I know the best way to get serious lead out is either a lewis or chore boy.
The question arose for me after watching a bunch of youtube "experts" as I explained and it made me curious. I have good enough luck with Balistol for the little leading I get but had heard great things about Kroil and I'm always ready to try something else.
I would have to list tons of stuff to get everything. I think this is the first poll I've tried and should have put "other" on it and "liquid" in the title. I tried to rectify this later on after it became evident to me that I had erred. If the previous person had read the answers he would have found out what I was after.

[jonp]

"We all know" liquid lead removers don't work. I am proposing New Legislation to force manufacturers to come up with a product that works.
Yeah, nothing is perfect. I wasn't looking for a "magic bullet" but just something that would work on minor stuff. A liquid lead remover that you swabbed in, let sit for a few minutes and swabbed out with the lead wouldn't seem to me to be that hard of a thing to come up with but I guess the boolit market is not big enough to justify the cost of development.

[rustyjunk]

Used Hoppes 9 with a few patches followed by more patches with spray brake cleaner or carb cleaner then a lube patch with a few drops of liquid Alox until I switched over to the White Label 2700+ lube, now I only need to run a single dry patch down for a clean and shiny bore.

[jonp]

Carb or brake cleaner. I've heard of that to clean dies but not barrels. I dont see why that wouldn't work.

[jonp]

Poll failure I use Chore-boy or brass wool

BTW: everyone who thinks this is a polling error should read comment #1, last sentence and both comments by me about watching so-called experts on youtube.

[rustyjunk]

The spray brake and carb cleaners are not helpful with lead or copper removal, they help with the removal of powder residue.

[Jim Flinchbaugh]

I've had good luck using the copper chore buy and bronze brush lubed with turpentine.
I think any liquid is just a lube, not a remover. Plus turps dont hurt finishes

[montana_charlie]

I use pure gum turpentine and a very tight patch. But, again, it's the mechanical action of the 'tight patch' which gets the lead out.
I used to use Kroil, but switched to turpentine when informed that Kroil 'encourages' leading to occur next time the gun is fired. I don't know if that is actually true, but switching to a different (proven) product was the easiest choice.

I still like Kroil, but for other jobs ...

I think your search for a liquid (or chemical) de-leader is going to fail.

CM

[jonp]

Turpentine is interesting and I have some. Im not really searching, though

[prs]

Bronze wool, steel wool on tight patch or brush plus Kroil; but elbow grease seems to be the effective agent in that technique.

I have learned how to load without the leading, but have a vast supply of "learning curve" ammo already loaded. I am getting really good at cleaning leaded barrels. Life lesson learned; temper enthusiasm with common sense.

prs