any tips on cast with old lee hand loader?

[nekshot]

I am loading for a caliber that the only reloading tool I have for it is a old lee hand loader. The one you use a hammer to wack em in and out. Jacket works fine but cast is a little challenging. Any good tips you might have for cast with em?

[Green Frog]

Only 1... be sure to bell the case mouth enough to keep from shaving lead. Most of the Lee Loaders have some sort of feature to make that happen, but you may have to emphasize this step. Other than that, the rest is the same for cast or jacketed bullet loading.

Froggie

[jmort]

Go to the Lee Precision "Custom Services" and get the $8.00 "Custom Flaring Tool" for the Lee Loader. I have one for every one of mine. Very nice addition to a tool I love.
http://leeprecision.com/custom-flaring-tool-for-lee-loader.html

[nekshot]

that flaring tool sure beats my needle nose pliars! I never knew lee had extra's for the hand loader. They are kinda neat. Was my first reloader at 16 years of age. My eyes almost popped when I first saw a reloading press for the first time.

[jmort]

I'm a Lee Precision Fan Boy and I was clicking around on their site one day and stumbled upon the flaring tool. Immediately ordered one for each of my Lee Loaders. Highly recommended. I was considering have my own custom tool made by a machinist before I found it. Was going to pay $20.00 instead of $8.00. Shipping do drive the cost up, but it is still a good deal and a must- have addition in my opinion.

[jcwit]

I made my own, looks similar without the complete bullet shape.

Didn't know Lee offered one.

[jmort]

"Didn't know Lee offered one"

Neither did I. A pleasant surprise.

[Vinne]

When I first started reloading in the 70s, my first reloader was the old Lee Wacker in 38. I used it for a couple of years but maybe they never offered the flaring tool back then. Sure is a neat tool to up grade to.

[Michael J. Spangler]

+1 on the flaring.
I've loaded for 4 cartridges with a lee loader all lead bullets. Flaring is a must

[dudel]

I made my own, looks similar without the complete bullet shape.

Didn't know Lee offered one.

Didn't know it either.

They are included in some loader sets. I got one in my 357Mag loader; but not for .22 Hornet, .223, .30 carb, 9mm or 45ACP.

[Shooter]

The one you use a hammer to wack em in and out.

I would use a hardwood stick instead of a hammer. Easier on the dies.

[jcwit]

I would use a hardwood stick instead of a hammer. Easier on the dies.

As do I. I picked up a bundle of hammer handles at the flea market for next to nothing, this has kept me in sprue hammers & hammers for reloading with the Lee, let alone a few hammer handles replaced.

[Texantothecore]

+1 on the flaring tool. I also use a factory crimp die with a Lee Hand Press and gently crimp the cartridge. There are no other tricks......it is what it is.

Rocks or branches also work out in the field.

I started with a very small hammer that is useful for mounting and adjusting sights but switched to a 16 oz., plastic faced hammer and I am quite satisfied with the results. Most functions requiring a hit use only one stroke now.

This is now my favorite press and my bench mounted presses are packed away as it is really satisfying to reload using this tool.

[mdi]

FWIW, I have 4 Lee Loaders for handguns. The older .44 Mag/Special has a mouth flare tool and the newer one doesn't. My '70s .38 Special doesn't, but my 38/357 does. Also, check that your cast bullets enter the main die body easily, as I've read some are too small for cast lead bullet diameters, and may get sized when seating. I have used a dead-blow hammer, a large rubber mallet, and a yeller plastic hammer, but never metal to metal steel hammer. I think the dead blow is pretty good as it "pushes" more than the "tappy-tap" of the lighter hammers.

IMHO, Lee Loaders are the greatest thing since smokeless powder (I also have 3 bench presses and a hand press but still use a Lee Loader once in a while when I feel "retro")...

[nekshot]

All of fuss about the flaring tool got me to wondering. Years ago I picked up a 38/357 lee loader and I looked in it and low and behold it has a flaring tool! Never knew it was there . It took you fellas to get me to looking to find it. And my "hammer" has nylon on one face and rubber on the other! Any one other than me set a primer off in one of these??? Almost gave me a muskrat slide in my pants!!

[jmort]

"Any one other than me set a primer off in one of these???"

Not yet, but primer detonation is a possibility. You have to assume it may happen, but not sure how you could be fully prepared for such a random occurrence. I reload in condition "yellow" and you would have to be in condition "red" for it not to be one big surprise.

[Michael J. Spangler]

I've set one off. It's a little scary but not as bad as I thought it would be.
It was my first primer ever. I've loaded tens of thousands on a progressive press with some primers that were pretty squished without setting them off.
Something about smashing a primer with a punch and hammer that persuades them a bit I guess.

[Shooter]

I have set off many primers before I learned to seat them easy. You can feel them bottom out, if you tap easy.

[jmort]

This is why I always prime off the press. I love hand primers.

[Texantothecore]

"Any one other than me set a primer off in one of these???"

Not yet, but primer detonation is a possibility. You have to assume it may happen, but not sure how you could be fully prepared for such a random occurrence. I reload in condition "yellow" and you would have to be in condition "red" for it not to be one big surprise.

I have set off a primer but it is not a big deal, it just comes with the territory.

[jcwit]

I have set off a primer but it is not a big deal, it just comes with the territory.

I have set off a few primers using the Lee Loader, not a big thing at all, they just make a BANG is all, no flying particles or anything. I now use a hand primer however, just for convenience.

[WILCO]

Go to the Lee Precision "Custom Services" and get the $8.00 "Custom Flaring Tool" for the Lee Loader. I have one for every one of mine. Very nice addition to a tool I love.
http://leeprecision.com/custom-flaring-tool-for-lee-loader.html

Best answer!!!

[Vinne]

I used a Lee Auto-Prime for many many years. It is the best thing for tv commercials.

[longbow]

Hah! Me too! I have several Lee Loaders but used to use 1/4" drive sockets on a 2" extension as case mouth flaring tools.

As for setting of primers... ME TOO! I set off several many years ago before I knew that large pistol primer pockets are shallower than large rifle primer pockets. I had only loaded rifle brass then got a .44 mag marlin 1894. I loaded lots with large rifle primers but had the occasional one go off (yeah muskrat slide in the pants describes it well). I finally did some checking and Oops! I started using large pistol primers in .44 mag.

Never too old to learn!

Longbow

[Dave Bulla]

The number one tip I can offer when using the Lee Loaders for cast is this....

Check to make sure your bullet will drop freely through the top of the die. That is, per the directions, the step where you have the case sitting in the decapping chamber, the die is over it and you've just dropped a charge of powder and the next step is to drop in a bullet. The Lee kits are made to tighter tolerances than most people realize and while a standard size jacketed bullet will fall right through the top of the die, a lubed cast bullet that is .001 to .003 oversize usually will not. If you use the seating ram to push it down through, odds are, you've just resized your bullet to a size smaller than you intended.

The fix is super simple.

Simply lift the die off of the charged case (now would be when you flare the case mouth also) and sit your bullet on top of the case mouth. Now lower the die back over the stack and proceed as normal with the bullet seating step.

Also, as for hammers, I prefer to use a mallet that is a little on the heavier side that has plastic faces about as hard as you can find. The plastic will never be hard enough to damage the die but a harder hammer face makes everything easier. I don't know what the weight of mine is but the head is about 3" long (without the screw in ends installed) by about 1 1/2" in diameter and is made of some sort of pot metal with a wood handle. In all, it's about twice the weight of the typical harbor freight Chinese mallet I started with and it works much better. It's easier to do the job with medium or soft hits from a solidly weighted mallet than to have to bang away with one that is a bit too light.

Also, invest in some calipers and the Lee hand held case trimmers.

As for the flare tools, you can also look up handgun kits of the same caliber as your rifle (if there is one that applies) and buy the standard flare tool that comes standard with all the straight wall handgun kits. It might save you $5 over a custom one. For example, if loading 35 Remington, a flare tool from a 357 kit is your baby. If loading 45-70, buy the one from the 45 Colt kit. I'm not sure if there is a cross over in 30 or32 caliber but you can easily look. I think they run about $3 or less and I've always received any parts I ordered from Lee in exactly two days.

Good luck!

[barrabruce]

I banged a few primers before I realised that if I held the primer rod down in the holder it cured all my troubles.
That and lighter taps.
The odd funny seat or short one and it feels different.
No need to bash 'em in.

Got a 30-30 one cheap bitzta parts one for $5.
I unscrewed the sizer bit out of the die and reset it not so deep so I now only half neck size my cases.
Also with a well formed case greased it up and put as much metal putty in as I could get.
Firguered it'd be more like a custom reamer made set-up.
Can't tell you if it helped any but it makes me feel better.
Also had to make a new bullet seater pin on the primer set-up bit.
O while I'm at it polised out the sizer bore so it sizes less than before and correct for plan cast.

A tapered rod in a handle marked at the right diameter serves me for a expander plug.

I don't use the crimp side as I shoot a single shot.but after seating to depth I'll sometimes push the shell in a bit to squeeze the neck down a tad if need be.

But a bloke I knew made a spacer that fitted in the end of the die to keep the bullet and the crimp aligned and even.

Iv'e also got a trimmer die and a de burrer.

Simplex full length vise/whackem die for range scrounged brass.

Iv'e prolly only loaded 10-12k rounds with this set -up and still love it.

I do use an old press as arbor press thou some times.

Barra

[Slow Elk 45/70]

Thanks for the info in this post :bigsmyl2:

[W.R.Buchanan]

Here's a hot tip for you guys using hammer driven Lee loaders. Look at the evolution of this tool.

These types of tools were never meant to be hammered. They were meant to be driven with small arbor presses.

IF you look at Wilson Bench Rest Dies they are just more precise versions(with less versatility) of the Lee Classic Loader. They are designed to be driven with a small arbor press..

I just ran across an old article on the .400 Whelan http://www.z-hat.com/smashing_the_headspace_myth.htm Where it states the original loading tools made for Col Whelan were referred to as "pound dies" however nothing could have been further from the truth since they were always ran with a small arbor press.

Before you decide you need a small arbor Press for operation of your Lee Loaders, I would submit that if you have a drill press you already have a small Arbor Press.

Try it,,, It makes all the difference in the world how smoothly the tool functions. Also you don't have to worry about setting primers off near as much. It is just a better way to operate the tool which will last many lifetimes if you don't beat it.

That said, I still have and use my original Snap On Plastic Faced Mallet I bought to run my original Lee Loader purchased in 1970. It has 1/2 of one face still left after 40+ years in the machine shop!

Randy

[jcwit]

Here's a hot tip for you guys using hammer driven Lee loaders. Look at the evolution of this tool.

These types of tools were never meant to be hammered. They were meant to be driven with small arbor presses.

IF you look at Wilson Bench Rest Dies they are just more precise versions(with less versatility) of the Lee Classic Loader. They are designed to be driven with a small arbor press..

I just ran across an old article on the .400 Whelan http://www.z-hat.com/smashing_the_headspace_myth.htm Where it states the original loading tools made for Col Whelan were referred to as "pound dies" however nothing could have been further from the truth since they were always ran with a small arbor press.

Before you decide you need a small arbor Press for operation of your Lee Loaders, I would submit that if you have a drill press you already have a small Arbor Press.

Try it,,, It makes all the difference in the world how smoothly the tool functions. Also you don't have to worry about setting primers off near as much. It is just a better way to operate the tool which will last many lifetimes if you don't beat it.

That said, I still have and use my original Snap On Plastic Faced Mallet I bought to run my original Lee Loader purchased in 1970. It has 1/2 of one face still left after 40+ years in the machine shop!

Randy

Maybe, maybe not, one would need a pretty heavy duty arbor press to size 30 cal. carbine cases using the Lee Loader. Believe me I know!

I'd hate to test the gears in my drill press to that extent.

I do use a Sinclair arbor press at the range using a Lee Loader in .223, but then it only neck sizes.

[Blacksmith]

Before you spend $8.00 for a custom flare tool be sure to check the Parst Section on the Lee site. Some loaders come with flare tools and those will work for similar calibers. The stock tools only cost $2.00
http://leeprecision.com/flaring-tool-45.html

[Wayne Smith]

The Lyman pound dies were just that, to full length size a case one lubed the case and pounded it into the die - the only other common way of using them was a bench vice. These are old - most people did not have a machine shop or an arbor press but they had a vice out in the shed or barn.

As far as setting off primers, I guess I was smart as a 16 year old. My first reloading rig was a Lee Loader for my 16ga and one for my Dad's 30-30. I read the directions and primed only a couple when I realized how easy and how surprising it would be to set one off. I promptly took it outside and deliberately set off a couple. I remember being surprised at how much a non-event it was. I didn't even need to be outside!

[W.R.Buchanan]

A vise would work just fine. Also neck sizing just about any Bottleneck Case takes very little effort. I have not done any .30 carbine cases but I doubt they could put up that much of a fight. You still have to lube them.

The idea of using a Drill Press for an arbor press is not new. I have been doing it to install pins in fixtures and assemblies for 30+ years and nobody told me about it. I just did it.

If you look at the amount of force it takes to push a 3/8"or 1/2" drill thru a piece of steel it becomes obvious why you need the "press" part of the Drill Press.

Also there are cheap arbor presses available at Harbor Freight and other places for <$30. I have had a 1 ton AP for 30 years and it has had a 3 foot long snipe on the handle for most of those years. there is also a smaller 1/2 ton press available at those stores. 1/2 ton is 1000 psi. I doubt any reloading press made can generate 1000 psi.

After resizing the case it is all down hill from there as far as the pressure needed to complete the task. Seating boolits doesn't take much effort at all.

When closing the crimps on shotgun shells the quill stop on the drill press makes for a consistent result.

In fact I am going to load some .662 rounds balls to use as slugs today and I will use my 12 ga. Lee Loader and the drill press to close the crimps because I don't want to change the perfect setting on my crimper on my DL266.

Randy

[Texantothecore]

The dies are defininately hammer dies and can be traced back to the beginnings of cartridge guns. Officers were issued kits of hammer dies which looked a great deal like the Wilson dies and they worked as well then as they do now.

You can use a hammer, the bottom of a Marine survival knife, a rock or a branch to work these dies. They are all good.

It is really great to carry a full reloading set up to the range. Due to a busy schedule I frequently do most of my reloading at the shooting bench.

I love my Lee Classic Loader.

[bandit7.5]

There is nothing like hammering on live primers at the bench behind the firingline to bring excitement to a range near you. I have had people give me horrific stares when im working a load in one of my lee loaders

[Mike 56]

I use a ball bearing a little bigger than the case mouth. But it needs to be big enough so it does not get stuck in the case.

[Michael J. Spangler]

showed a friend how to use a lee loader tonight.
about a dozen 38 special later he was hooked.

[Texantothecore]

showed a friend how to use a lee loader tonight.
about a dozen 38 special later he was hooked.

There is something really fascinating about creating your own ammo with a Lee Classic Loader. Wonderful fun.

[Lead Fred]

I bought one of the custom bellers for my 45/70. It came .458 not .460 as I wanted.
So now Ill use it for my 45 acp, since it will do nothing to my 45/70 cases.