finishing the trigger work on the model 10

[Forrest r]

Been wanting to finish the trigger on my model 10 for a couple of months now.

76616

I like to use moly paste on all the moving trigger parts. Simple heat the polished/deburred parts with a hair blow drier & put a light oil like 3 in 1 oil on the heated parts. I use a q-tip to apply the moly paste (brownell's) & to rub it into the hot parts for a minute or so. Then I wipe everything down to get the heavy coat of moly paste off of the parts & reassemble the revolver.

76617


Doing this will easily take a 1/2#+ off the da trigger pull of an already reworked trigger.

[leftiye]

Putting three in one oil on your trigger works, and cycling several hundred times has about that effect too. I use this to finish polish the rubbing surfaces. The single action on most smiths can't be improved much (remember it gets almost beyond feeling the let off as trigger pull weight lessens). Polishing the trigger return spring block usually can help noticeably, Polish with stone (600 grit) then 1500 grit sandpaper, then cycle polish action. Don't change surface angles. Getting a lighter trigger return spring directly lessens pull and doesn't affect reliability. Lightening hammer spring if you know how (don't grind smaller end) - Or get aftermarket custom spring again will lighten pull. Many smiths are acceptable with only lightened return spring, backed off (a little) hammer tension spring, and putting JB compound in action and cycling to polish. (then clean, wouldn't want to get flamed for leaving that out). To test for heavy enough hammer action fire 20 rounds of empty brass with primers only in them. If it doesn't malfunction in that many, it probly won't. Cold temperatures cause problems with reliability too when you go too light.