I Am Guilty...

[BCB]

Of doing most everything that some people “parrot” as being the biggest “no-no’s” ever know to reloaders just because they read it somewhere…

The picture is of a can of Brasso and a 30-30 Winchester case…

The case was soaked for 48 hours in a commercially available ammonia cleaner and then loaded with a 2.5 cc scoop of IMR-4831 (33-34 grains) and a 311041 was seated. CCI-200 primers were used and the boolit was heavily crimped into the case…

I fired this case 5 times and after each firing, I cleaned it with Brasso—just to add an extra dose of ammonia…

Nothing happened to the case…

SO, I soaked it for another 48 hours in the same ammonia cleaner and fired it 5 more times. And I used Brasso to clean again…

Still, no problems noted to the case. No cracks, bulges, and whatever’s. The case was full-lengthed sized each time. Plus, this case had been previously reloaded before the ammonia test…

This case has been reloaded and fired at least 15 times I would guess…

And it can be reloaded more times…

Now the ammonia test may not be proof that ammonia may only affect brass minimally as the total effect may be a slow chemical reaction and the brass may fail as time goes by—this I don’t know. But, I am planning on marking this piece of brass and putting it in my 30-30 die box and reload it sometime down the road of time—that might be more representative of the effects of ammonia…
(Never did know when to us “affect” or “effect”)

I have used Brasso in my cleaning media since I learned the “requirements” of Brasso during some time with Sam, and of the benefits of Brasso in cleaning my casings…

By the way:

I interchange primers other than listed in published data…

I use magnum primers sometimes when it calls for standard primers and visa-a-versa (is that a word?)…

I worked with powders of similar burning rates, other than listed in the data, working from the low charges upward…

I use bullet/boolits of similar weight when testing loading data from published data…

I have never used powder as fertilizers—never had any go bad…

I have mixed the same powder—an old canister that was almost done with a new canister…

I just hate it when people state things are wrong when they have never done them—only heard someone else say it or post it…

And finally, I ride an old Harley that has antique license plates, and I DO run with SCISSORS…

Good-luck…BCB

[dondiego]

You had better be careful with those scissors!

[Jaak]

I like you.

[EMC45]

I'm with you in a lot of what you've done and do. I have old powders that run just fine. I also have swapped data for given bullet weights to powder ratio and am still here to tell about it.

[snuffy]

There's theorys , then there's facts. Fact is that ammonia leaches zinc from brass, no doubt about it! Myself, I'm not willing to take the chance that the case might fail is I use a polish that affects the strength of brass.

Your load of IMR-4831 in a 30-30 is most likely a VERY low pressure load. Substitute using IMR-3031 or some other much faster powder, see what happens!?

Common sense is getting much less common now-a-days. A lot of the so-called cautions that get repeated on internet forums are not fact, not true, just myths. Repeat something often enough, it takes on believability, then becomes accepted fact. Question but verify.

[mdi]

Even an actual test, reported in all honesty won't convince some folks. Your test will be viewed as a "one in a million success", and they'll pick apart the test. I believe there a bunch of "facts" running around that in theory may be true, but in real life don't matter much....

BTW, thanks!

[BCB]

There's theorys , then there's facts. Fact is that ammonia leaches zinc from brass, no doubt about it! Myself, I'm not willing to take the chance that the case might fail is I use a polish that affects the strength of brass.

Your load of IMR-4831 in a 30-30 is most likely a VERY low pressure load. Substitute using IMR-3031 or some other much faster powder, see what happens!?

Common sense is getting much less common now-a-days. A lot of the so-called cautions that get repeated on internet forums are not fact, not true, just myths. Repeat something often enough, it takes on believability, then becomes accepted fact. Question but verify.

You may be correct with the pressure thing...

But, I have used Brasso with 270 Winchester, 6mm, and 7mm-08 and have had no problems...

But again, I never shot them 15 times either...

[ku4hx]

You sound like me. There are basically two types of "gun people": the readers and talkers who have read a lot and know a lot of high sounding words, and the doers who have done a lot and lived the true meaning of all the reader's high sounding words.

[finstr]

I've often heard and also subscribe to the theory of "it's not what you know, it's what you can get away with"!
As a thinking man I'm always wondering "what if ". It seems that if someone doesn't follow the rules then they're labeled wreckless or unsafe by others. Kudos to BCB for busting myths.
Btw, scissors are only fun to run with when they're open and your shoelaces are untied, jus' sayin'.....

[BCB]

I've often heard and also subscribe to the theory of "it's not what you know, it's what you can get away with"!
As a thinking man I'm always wondering "what if ". It seems that if someone doesn't follow the rules then they're labeled wreckless or unsafe by others. Kudos to BCB for busting myths.
Btw, scissors are only fun to run with when they're open and your shoelaces are untied, jus' sayin'.....

Interesting...Don't tempt me with the open scissors and untied shoelaces!!! I never gave that a thought...

[Mud Eagle]

You need to add reloading steel cases to your list.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v450/Hacker15E/BA913011-3F6E-44E2-B928-D9292FA71BEA-135-000000033A84D014.jpg

[remy3424]

How about aluminum cases? Those steel cases do have a certain "tough" or "industrial" look to them. Does polish in the tumbler keep them from rusting?

[Char-Gar]

You dare not to follow conventional wisdom and dicta? Heretic!!!

PS: A very large slice of conventional wisdom is old wives tales, myths and other forms of krap.

[sparky45]

Char-Gar; I like the way you pontificate.

[375RUGER]

So let's see a pic of the Harley.

[fredj338]

Your assumption & test is flawed. Do the same thing, let the case sit for a year or two, then load it & get back to me. I have proven it to myself, ammonia & brass are not a good combo, never have been. It won't give you a catastrophic failure, just leads to premature neck or shoulder splits.
By all means though, continue to do things as you like. I have survived a car crash w/o a seat belt to, but don't recommend it.

[BCB]

.................................................. ............................

[BCB]

Your assumption & test is flawed. Do the same thing, let the case sit for a year or two, then load it & get back to me. I have proven it to myself, ammonia & brass are not a good combo, never have been. It won't give you a catastrophic failure, just leads to premature neck or shoulder splits.
By all means though, continue to do things as you like. I have survived a car crash w/o a seat belt to, but don't recommend it.

Indeed, and so have I...

Sometime last summer I shot some 270 Winchester loaded with 140 Hornady BTSP, 57 grains of H-4831, a CCI-250 primer that were originally loaded in 1990. That was some of the last rounds I loaded for my 270's using jacketed bullets...

That brass would have been cleaned in media using Brasso as I have done that since 1973. Didn't have a tumbler before then...

Guess each has their own experience...

BCB

[snuffy]

You need to add reloading steel cases to your list.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v450/Hacker15E/BA913011-3F6E-44E2-B928-D9292FA71BEA-135-000000033A84D014.jpg

Indeed! I too raised an eyebrow at those nancyboys saying you CAN'T load steel cases. Apparently, some don't even want to shoot them as factory loads, that was all that was in the display case at wally-world a couple of months back. (In this case it was 45 ACP. 230 fmj). I bought a box, proceeded to empty them. Lousy accuracy! Dirty bore too. Tulla ammo.

I proceeded to load them with my standard load , 200gr. #68 H&G, 5.5 W-231. They loaded up just fine, the accuracy was as good as my brass loads. All 50 shells survived the entire process. That reminds me, time for reload #2!

quote;I interchange primers other than listed in published data…---Yeah, so who doesn't? As long as you start at the bottom charge, no problem.

quote;I use magnum primers sometimes when it calls for standard primers.---Yup me too, again start low and work up. In fact standard primers often work better in some magnum pistol/revolver loads.

quote;I worked with powders of similar burning rates, other than listed in the data, working from the low charges upward…---I did that a few times, most of the times I got acceptable loads. Once though, in a 7X30 Waters load for my 14" contender. I figured if IMR 4895 worked, why wouldn't IMR 4198? There was a good reason it was NOT in any manual, vertical stringing!!! Not unsafe, just not a useable load.

As for the rest, me too!

Now the main reason your brasso use in a tumbler did NOT cause problems, the ammonia evaporates almost as soon as you turn it on . Or as soon as it drys out. Brasso contains the right type and grit of abrasive for brass,,,--- DUH! Once the ammonia evaporates it's just a polishing agent.

[1Shirt]

Good thread! The last time I used brasso, it was to polish a Marine belt buckle-worked great! When my brass comes out of the tumbler it is clean and bright enough for me, but think I am inclined to agree with the ammonia evaporating etc. Old and new canister of the same powder mix=Guilty. Mag primer substitute if I run out of regular primers=Guilty. And most of the other stuff listed! T'aint all book learnin Magee!!!!
1Shirt!

[W.R.Buchanan]

Fredj338 had the right answer.

It takes time for the ammonia to leach the zinc out of the brass. Treat those cases and let them sit for a few years and they will fail.

If you have used them up in a few months of shooting then it probably doesn't matter.

I have LC .30-06 Brass I am still using from the 70's. But it has never seen Brasso.

I can't understand why with so many other options you would want to use Basso. Some walnut shells and Nu finish car wax will do anything you want with no ammonia.

Randy

[DeanWinchester]

This reminds me of people who swear a pointy lead boolit (not harder jacketed bullet) will set off a primer in a tube magazine. Cast lead just won't do it. I've beat them silly with a hammer and couldn't get a primer to set off.

A lot of people cleaned a LOT of brass with brasso for many many years. I never heard it was a bad thing till I really started frequenting the Interwebz.


Does that make either a good idea? Maybe not, but a lot of truth.....isn't.

[Swede44mag]

I have reloaded aluminum cases I use them in my 45acp to hunt in the tall weeds that makes fired brass hard to find.
I have done the same for my 44mag.
As far as Brasso I have used it for years in my Dillion tumbler for years no problems yet.

[BCB]

snuffy,

The evaporation is probably correct after several uses of the media...

But the first use of it with the freshly added Brasso would not have had the ammonia evaporate at that point...

I have added media refresher and the media stays "damp" for several uses...

No, I didn't add a cupful of the stuff either...

[Uncle R.]

I used Brasso for many years in my case cleaning media and sometimes on a rag while polishing with a K-Spinner.
<
I don't any more.
<
I had no catastrophic failures, but I got some really strange looking case cracks on some old and many-times polished and reloaded .38 Special cases. They weren't just mouth splits from work hardening, those I'm familiar with. In fact this particular batch of brass had been annealed once before because I was starting to lose cases to mouth splits after nearly 20 reloads.
<
I got several more loadings after the annealing, but then cases started to show groups of jagged cracks in the bodies. The cracks didn't run the length of the case as I'd expect to see in a drawn metal object. They ran in random directions - it almost looked like broken glass.
<
This was years ago, and it was at just about the time that I first read about Brasso and case failure. I had an "Aha!" moment and stopped using Brasso in my tumbler. I realize that my experiences don't constitute proof that Brasso damages cases - but I am convinced it does.
<
YMMV.
<
Uncle R.

[pmeisel]

Nice bike! Other than that I am just listening....

[BCB]

Fredj338 had the right answer.

It takes time for the ammonia to leach the zinc out of the brass. Treat those cases and let them sit for a few years and they will fail.

If you have used them up in a few months of shooting then it probably doesn't matter.

I have LC .30-06 Brass I am still using from the 70's. But it has never seen Brasso.

I can't understand why with so many other options you would want to use Basso. Some walnut shells and Nu finish car wax will do anything you want with no ammonia.

Randy

I agree with the availability of non-ammonia products to polish with today...

Back when I started to use Brasso, there were not the choices--if there were, I didn't find them...

I actually cleaned brass by hand using Brasso and cotton cloths--time consuming but it did a very nice job...

I later just started to add a tablespoon to a full tumbler full of walnut shells...

I do use commercial polishing liquids in my tumbler now, but I still add a tablespoon of Brasso with a new batch of walnut shells...

Guess old habits are hard to break...

[Smoke4320]

Interesting...Don't tempt me with the open scissors and untied shoelaces!!! I never gave that a thought...

its even more fun when you tie the laces from the 2 shoes together before running with the scissors

[BCB]

its even more fun when you tie the laces from the 2 shoes together before running with the scissors

I got a feeling you're out to get me buddy!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[Benjlan]

I do a lot of things I'm not supposed to do. Aluminum and steel cases are among those. Grampshas always used Brasso. Perhaps some day we will experience those case failures. Not trying to get smart just observations.

[7of7]

You need to add reloading steel cases to your list.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v450/Hacker15E/BA913011-3F6E-44E2-B928-D9292FA71BEA-135-000000033A84D014.jpg

You can't reload steel cases... Didn't anyone tell you that?

[MtGun44]

Totally irrelevant test. Ammonia cracking is a long term phenomenon, not short term.
Just because you don't believe it doesn't make it not true. The phenomenon is well
established, it is "stress-corrosion intergranular cracking". You need a significant
continuous stress on the brass at the same time you have the ammonia and some
moisture for the correct environment for cracking. Without significant stresses, it
will not occur. A belt buckle or brass plaque is in no danger. Necks with high neck
tension are at risk over a period of months to years.

Similar effects with 300 series stainless steels if welded and exposed to chlorides.
Different cause, but similar effect.

Bill

[220swiftfn]

.................................................. ............................

Um, that's not old.......



Dan

[mikeym1a]

Of doing most everything that some people “parrot” as being the biggest “no-no’s” ever know to reloaders just because they read it somewhere…

The picture is of a can of Brasso and a 30-30 Winchester case…

The case was soaked for 48 hours in a commercially available ammonia cleaner and then loaded with a 2.5 cc scoop of IMR-4831 (33-34 grains) and a 311041 was seated. CCI-200 primers were used and the boolit was heavily crimped into the case…

I fired this case 5 times and after each firing, I cleaned it with Brasso—just to add an extra dose of ammonia…

Nothing happened to the case…

SO, I soaked it for another 48 hours in the same ammonia cleaner and fired it 5 more times. And I used Brasso to clean again…

Still, no problems noted to the case. No cracks, bulges, and whatever’s. The case was full-lengthed sized each time. Plus, this case had been previously reloaded before the ammonia test…

This case has been reloaded and fired at least 15 times I would guess…

And it can be reloaded more times…

Now the ammonia test may not be proof that ammonia may only affect brass minimally as the total effect may be a slow chemical reaction and the brass may fail as time goes by—this I don’t know. But, I am planning on marking this piece of brass and putting it in my 30-30 die box and reload it sometime down the road of time—that might be more representative of the effects of ammonia…
(Never did know when to us “affect” or “effect”)

I have used Brasso in my cleaning media since I learned the “requirements” of Brasso during some time with Sam, and of the benefits of Brasso in cleaning my casings…

By the way:

I interchange primers other than listed in published data…

I use magnum primers sometimes when it calls for standard primers and visa-a-versa (is that a word?)…

I worked with powders of similar burning rates, other than listed in the data, working from the low charges upward…

I use bullet/boolits of similar weight when testing loading data from published data…

I have never used powder as fertilizers—never had any go bad…

I have mixed the same powder—an old canister that was almost done with a new canister…

I just hate it when people state things are wrong when they have never done them—only heard someone else say it or post it…

And finally, I ride an old Harley that has antique license plates, and I DO run with SCISSORS…

Good-luck…BCB

HERESY!!! Heresy, I say!!!!:mad:

[BCB]

Um, that's not old.......



Dan

30...Old enough in PA to get antique plates...

The 1st year Evo engine...

Permanent registration, No state inspections, and Less insurance costs...

But, I did have a '69 XLCH--could barely get it to start most times--parked it on a hill when available...

And a '74 XLCH--an AMF--that should have had a "junk" license plate...

And so that goes...

[BCB]

Totally irrelevant test. Ammonia cracking is a long term phenomenon, not short term.
Just because you don't believe it doesn't make it not true. The phenomenon is well
established, it is "stress-corrosion intergranular cracking". You need a significant
continuous stress on the brass at the same time you have the ammonia and some
moisture for the correct environment for cracking. Without significant stresses, it
will not occur. A belt buckle or brass plaque is in no danger. Necks with high neck
tension are at risk over a period of months to years.

Similar effects with 300 series stainless steels if welded and exposed to chlorides.
Different cause, but similar effect.

Bill

You may be correct--I don't have a degree in metal...

But, the 270 Winchester loads from 1990 do have age and I know they had Brasso used on them...

Your explaination as to how it needs to occur would be a very very isolated environment--almost one that would need to be specifically setup...

I even wonder if you would get enough reactant, ammonia, on the brass by just wipe on Brasso and then wiping it off...

Or, was the neck tension on the 270 brass not enough?...

If it takes a long time--not occurring with the 270 brass at 20+ plus years of age and that had been reloaded 6 times, I sure am not worried about it. Hell, I'll never live another 20 years. And if I do, I won't be doing any shooting...

BCB

[HABCAN]

Sir, you have published a list of absolute reloaders' heresies...........and like you, I've committed every one over many years.......and have every intention of continuing so to do. Thank you for publishing this.

The 'Brasso' thing? I've done that occasionally on 'presentation sets' of ammo..........the chemical cleaner is not on there long enough to affect anything!! Never needed it in my tumbler.

Newbies take note: EXPERIENCE trumps 'conventional wisdom', and what works for one 'loader may be dangerous for another. Just use your common sense.

[Mud Eagle]

Those steel cases do have a certain "tough" or "industrial" look to them. Does polish in the tumbler keep them from rusting?

I wet tumble in stainless pins to take the polymer or lacquer coating, I don't give them a fresh-water bath after tumbling (I just take them directly out of the soapy/dirty water), then blow them with compressed air.

There is something about the lack of fresh-water rinse that makes a difference. If I do rinse them in fresh water (what I did when I first started trying this), I do get light surface rust within a day or so on a small number of cases that could be cleaned/wiped with a rag. Without a rinse, I don't see any of it. I don't know what about having been immersed in the dirty water it is that inhibits the rust, but it seems to work that way.

I live in a somewhat humid environment, but store the cases in plastic containers or ziploc bags and haven't had any significant issues with oxidation. Of literally thousands of 223 and 45ACP cases I've worked with, only a handful (less than 10) have had to be re-tumbled because of come kind of surface rust appearing.

[StratsMan]

Jeez, how can you be a True Booliteer without having committed most of those sins?? How else ya gonna learn??

"Rules" are for people who don't want to take the time to figure out how/why things actually work. If reloading and shooting knowledge were expressed as a Bell Curve, then Convential Wisdom (ie: commercial loading data) would only be the top 5-10 percent of the top of the curve. No one would make or load their own boolits, no one would load up "reduced" loads in rifles with handgun powder, shoot duplex loads, paper patch, etc... Oh; and nobody on this forum would have any fun.

So let's continue to understand how things actually work and throw out the 10-second sound bytes of conventional wisdom...

[BCB]

Jeez, how can you be a True Booliteer without having committed most of those sins?? How else ya gonna learn??

"Rules" are for people who don't want to take the time to figure out how/why things actually work. If reloading and shooting knowledge were expressed as a Bell Curve, then Convential Wisdom (ie: commercial loading data) would only be the top 5-10 percent of the top of the curve. No one would make or load their own boolits, no one would load up "reduced" loads in rifles with handgun powder, shoot duplex loads, paper patch, etc... Oh; and nobody on this forum would have any fun.

So let's continue to understand how things actually work and throw out the 10-second sound bytes of conventional wisdom...

I agree...

That opinion has been expressed several times in this thread and it is true...

[snuffy]

I seem to be remembering a story about a guy that had a forgotten cardboard box half full of 30-06 ammo, down in the corner of his basement.

When he re-discovered it, the 06 ammo was displaying the ammonia cracking. Also in the box was a mouse nest. It turns out that mice have a LOT of ammonia in their pee. From the appearance, it must have been used for many litters over the years.

Not even close to the exposure of a bit of brasso, or being tumbled in the polish that makes brasso work after the ammonia has dried up.

[MtGun44]

BCB,

Please understand that I am not attacking you, but the fact that ammonia will,
under the proper conditions, cause very serious problems with brass cracking
is extremely well established.

You are probably correct, that a small amount of ammonia in a mix like Brasso,
applied briefly and removed thoroughly, is unlikely to cause a problem. OTOH,
it does not seem at all prudent to "push you luck" when there is a real possiblility
of doing serious damage to valuable brass and/or ammunition.

Again, the test is not a valid test as far as disproving the existence of the phenomenon
of stress corrosion cracking of brass by ammonia. It may well be a useful test
for whether you can use Brasso briefly on cases and get away with it.

I'm not going to do a lot of other things I might get away with. Just because
you got away with it ten times in a row, doesn't mean you will next time.
But, everyone needs to evaluate their own risks by their own standards.

Life is all about choices and if you choose to clean your brass with Brasso,
have at it. It is still a free enough country that they haven't yet made that
illegal. ;-)

Personally, I use Brasso only for belt buckles.

Bill

[BCB]

MtGun44…

Never took it as an attack…

I too am certain that there is some type of chemical reaction among the ammonia and the brass compounds…

I just took, and still take the stand, that the reaction is very slow and that is, if there is enough reactant to cause the problem and the environmental conditions are conducive to allow the reaction to go to completion…

Personally, I have never had a problem…

I have actually thrown more brass away that had corrosion marks on it from getting wet and staying slightly damp in a 5-gallon bucket that I have full of brass. And this has taken dozens of years to corrode that badly in a humid basement. Although I run dehumidifiers in the summer months…

As far a cleaning belt buckets—I gave that up in 1973 when I parted company with Sam…

BCB

[smokeywolf]

This point may have already been made and I perhaps missed it in scanning through the thread. Brass that is not being subjected to the continuous stress of a seated boolit will take a much longer time to show cracks or degradation from the loss of zinc. Expose that brass to ammonia, then charge and seat the boolits and let the loaded rounds sit there for months to years with the continuous tension on the necks and you are then likely to see neck cracking.

The comment that MtGun44 made about 300 series stainless is also right on. 300 series stainless must be passivated after welding, before it can be subjected to loads in an environment where chlorides are present.

smokeywolf

[Cherokee]

Some of us do things against "conventional wisdom" that we don't talk about, and have ever had a problem. I know what it takes to cast perfect boolits, but don't always do it. Can't tell the difference at the range.

[Old Caster]

The one thing in your list that one should be careful about is mixing one lot of powder with another. From lot to lot, especially with fast powders, it would be easy to over charge a case unless you mix it completely. I had an old bunch of Bullseye powder and ran out of it while loading and added some from a new can. The new was bulkier per weight and the load was way too light. When I checked I found that the old powder was giving me a 4 grain load and the new was giving me a 3.5 grain load. When I changed the measure to again throw 4 grains, it was exactly the same power. If two were put into one container and not mixed, the load weight could conceivably change as you went. In all fairness the two powders were from different manufacturers so that might be all the reason but I would always shake the powder to mix it just in case.

[lrdg]

Couldn't find an Indian?

[rockshooter]

I remember in another lifetime carefully polishing all the rounds in M-14 magazines for inspection- would do the same rounds every week- good thing the Russians never came thru the gap.
Loren

[Sgtonory]

I like you.

Just what i was gonna post. Have the same type of thinking.

[olafhardt]

I don't know why you all are so worried about loss of zinc, ammonia is much more corrosive to the copper than it is to zinc. The zinc works to sort of passivate the alloy while the copper combines with the ammonia to form the highly soluble tetra-amine coper ion. (I had to throw that in just to show how smart I am.) Where I have seen stress cracking has always been in really wet environments. When we encountered chloride stress corrosion of 304 stainless at less than 40 ppm Cl` in condenser coolent during shutdowns we blew the water out and put in a nitrogen blanket. I just don't see that the Brasso ammonia hangs around long enough or is wet enough to cause problems.Now if you added the Brasso to a plastic bag with brass and sealed it you are asking for trouble. I never clean brass and my guns don't seem to care. Also if your necks split after 20 reloads, is that really indicative of early brass failure?

[220swiftfn]

30...Old enough in PA to get antique plates...

The 1st year Evo engine...

Permanent registration, No state inspections, and Less insurance costs...

But, I did have a '69 XLCH--could barely get it to start most times--parked it on a hill when available...

And a '74 XLCH--an AMF--that should have had a "junk" license plate...

And so that goes...

Sorry, I knee-jerked on that one, "an Evo isn't THAT old....." Got a '53 FL here, I'll have to see if I can find a pic....


Dan

[BCB]

Sorry, I knee-jerked on that one, "an Evo isn't THAT old....." Got a '53 FL here, I'll have to see if I can find a pic....


Dan

Yea, I agree, but I really would not want a true "old" one as the one I have nearly nickel and dimes me to death...

I just put antique plates on it to save money with no new registration and inspection every year. Plus the insurance is lessened...

Actually thought about selling it and trying to find a '69 Firebird to restore--but that's another website.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

As far as the ammonia goes, guess there are opposing opinions for sure. As noted in one of my earlier posts, I did have neck tension on 270 Winchester cartridges that I recently fired--no problem...

So, I guess I will put a teaspoon or so in my media ever other time or thereabout. I don't tumble much brass anymore so I suspect the chemicals will mostly dissipate...

But, I do think it does help to shine the brass...

And so it goes...

BCB