New to Reloading Question

[MWesner55]

Hey everyone. I've been on this forum a bit and finally decided to buy a MN. I have decided I don't want to shoot corrosive rounds through it so reloading is my other option for cheap ammo.

My question is what is everything I need to have to reload from beginning to end. Such as type of primers, powder, boolit molds, hardware(case trimmers,dies, etc.) and possibly the method to reload in idiot proof instructions. Anything is really appreciated!

Thanks all. Looking forward to getting hooked!

[Randy C]

Give a better description of what you want to reload and how much do you want to spend to get started, Lee is goo equipment if you are on a budget but its like buying a car how fast do you want to go.

[MT Chambers]

Get you some good reloading manuals, like Lyman's 49th, and read them over and over, there will be a test at the end.

[**oneshot**]

Where are you from?

[Wayne Smith]

As said, it depends on your money available. You can get a Lee Cast press new and useful dies off of e-Bay if you want. In this case you will typically spend less than $200. Add a scale from RCBS and a hand primer setter from RCBS too. Both can be picked up off eBay too, but you take a chance that they may not be useful. If you are a woodworker or a plastic worker you can make a cartridge tray yourself or somebody like me can. This is the base. You can reload with these tools alone. Yes, many things are likely to be added over the years. A powder measure is likely early, you will bet tired of weighing every load!

Add at least at least one or two reloading manuals as well. I still have the first one I got over 30 years ago. Many more added over the years. Don't depend only on the internet, get a Lyman or Serria reloading manual because they have full information about how to use the tools and reload. I haven't added it up but I'd guess you are still under $300.

I have picked up most of my reloading dies off eBay. Only one set of over 20 was bad. I have picked up two powder scales as well there. One was an RCBS 1010 that was not in good shape and I got it for less than $20. Sent it back to RCBS because it would not stay stable and told them how I bought it. A couple of weeks later I got a box from RCBS. A brand new 1010! This is the reason I tend to buy RCBS. Not only good quality but full guarantee.

Do your own research. There is a lot of good quality stuff out there. I have no idea how much money you have available. I chose to mention some of the best that is available for reasonable prices. Ebay and other auction sites are likely to find what you need cheaper, but you need to know what you are buying.

[462]

As already mentioned, a reloading manual -- two or three is even better -- is the best first step. Not only will you get an idea of the equipment that you will need and the various reloading steps involved, but more importantly, it will teach you how to do it all safely. Recommendations, in order of preference, would be the latest from Lyman (49th), Hornady and Sierra.

I strongly advise against learning via You Tube. Till you know what's involved and how to do it safely, you won't be able to discern whether the video was made by someone following safe reloading practices, or if it was made by a fool using unsafe procedures, and just looking for his 15-minutes of fame.

[WILCO]

Good answers given. Best manual to start off with for reloading is the "Modern Reloading" by Richard Lee.

http://www.cabelas.com/product/Lee-Modern-Reloading-Manual-nd-Edition/705252.uts?productVariantId=1362846&WT.tsrc=CSE&WT.mc_id=GoogleProductAds&WT.z_mc_id1=20002388&rid=40&channel=GoogleBaseUSA&mr:trackingCode=5CB7B7CC-958E-DF11-A0C8-002219318F67&mr:referralID=NA&mr:adType=pla&mr:ad=25988357711&mr:keyword=&mr:match=&mr:filter=52255515671&gclid=CMOJ7Kfnt7gCFYKi4AodKEEAaw

Don't purchase any reloading supplies or tools until you have an understanding of what you're doing. The only idiot proof instructions are to skip reloading ammunition if you're not able to, or unwilling to follow directions.

[MWesner55]

I am located in southeastern Michigan. I am looking to load for my MN in the 7.62x54r. I have looked at lee and their stuff is nice. I am on a budget so that seems to be what I would like to go with. I'm using these rounds for about 100 yard target shooting mainly.

[MWesner55]

I have actually reloaded a few 9mm round with a buddy but rifle seems to be a whole different ball game that's why I have come to you guys. So I have a basic understanding of reloading but just looking to get to know the unfamiliar stuff such as gas checks, case trimming, etc.

[wallenba]

First concern is buying the right Mosin-Nagant. I'd look for a pre-WWII 91/30 with a Tula arsenal mark (large star embossed on receiver), or a Finnish model. Check the muzzle to see if it is in good condition and not counter-bored. Matching numbers would be nice too, as well as a laminate stock. You can't slug the bore in the store, but a snugly fitting pin gage from .300+ to about .301- might indicate a lesser worn bore and groove.

[MWesner55]

Yeah I actually went into the store and picked up a hex receiver 1932 model with a real clean bore. Haven't been able to slug it since they offered to clean the cosmoline out for me and I couldn't say no.

[MWesner55]

I do think it was a Tula because I remember a star on the receiver.

[wallenba]

I do think it was a Tula because I remember a star on the receiver.

Good buy, it sounds like. I like the hex receivers, only have one though. A 1928 Izhevsk.

[Gtek]

Great choice for cheap fun, fantastic that you wish to learn and grow into the sport. Read, Read, Read, find a mentor if you can. Do not count out the corrosive fodder removing yourself from cheap banging. It is not that much to clean and care for correctly post corrosive. #1 rule- if you do not pour it, if you did not see it, if you do not reload it, IT IS COMPONENTS- Unless it comes in a factory box. Double or triple check all type powders and volumes before loading, and just because somebody said it's so or I read it on the internet don't play. Be safe, enjoy, and remember it is your face sitting over >50K PSI. Gtek

[MWesner55]

Alright so my get to the point question what components do I need? I bought lee dies (their 7.62x38 dies). I am looking to buy alliant 2400 powder. I saw some Winchester large rifle primers I was going to scoop up. And I have a single stage lee press. What am I missing? (I realize I need brass but am having trouble finding any brass that isn't going to cost me $1/brass. I've been looking for once fired but with no luck.)

[JRPVT]

Hope that was an oops on the dies, for MN you need 7.62x54R, as for brass, sometimes a member will get you enough to get started.JRPVT

[wallenba]

Ok, to do the casting right, select your mold. The Mosin has about a 1:9.5 twist rate, so it will handle most all .312 molds. To start I would recommend the Lee
TL312-160-2R, its made for tumble lubing, the easiest method for beginners. You will need to select a Lee sizing die based on your rifles groove diameter, it will come with lube. You will need to slug the barrel to determine that. Select a die size at least .001 larger than your groove diameter. You should use some gas checks, although at lower pressures cast boolits can be loaded without them. (I always use them). You need a furnace, the Lee 4-20 Pro is a good choice for the beginner. Loading manuals, I recommend Richard Lee's Modern reloading, read chapter 11 carefully. Get a small, table top hot plate, the kind used for cooking. That is to preheat your mold on. They run about $15. A thermometer for the pot will insure you know when the alloy is ready to pour. Since you plan to use 2400, look up C.E. Harris's 2400 loads (google on the net). you will need casting alloy. Lyman number 2 is available from Rotometals (see the banner at the top of the page). A Lyman 'M' die for you caliber will help in seating cast boolits. A chamfer and deburring tool is needed for case prep. A loading tray, a powder scale and a powder dispenser. Lee makes the Perfect Powder Measure (the PPM). It is inexpensive, and when seasoned, can be very accurate. A hand held Lee priming tool will speed things up with less trouble than the Lee Safety Prime used on their presses.
MidwayUSA, Midsouth, Graf & Sons are just a few of the sites where one can obtain the necessary items, however, most places are experiencing shortages and shipping delays lately.
I'm sure there is something I have left out, but this is a good budget start list.

http://home.comcast.net/~gavinsw/guns/castbulletmilitaryrifle.pdf

Most all questions you will have will be answered in Lee's book. We're here for you anytime though.

[MWesner55]

Hope that was an oops on the dies, for MN you need 7.62x54R, as for brass, sometimes a member will get you enough to get started.JRPVT

I have read that when reloading 7.62x54r you will use a 7.62x39 mold in a x54r case. I hope this is not incorrect. And as for brass, someone sending me brass would be an absolute Godsend! Lol I don't know how much this happens so I remain in search of brass.

[wallenba]

I have read that when reloading 7.62x54r you will use a 7.62x39 mold in a x54r case. I hope this is not incorrect. And as for brass, someone sending me brass would be an absolute Godsend! Lol I don't know how much this happens so I remain in search of brass.

Yes, the molds C312-155-2R and TL312-160-2R if I remember correctly, were intended for the AK round, but can be used elsewhere. I actually use the 155 in my 308 Winchester Ruger rifle and 30 Herrett. I believe that JRPVT was referring to the reloading die set itself, as you stated in post #15 you said dies, not molds. I figured it was a typo. If not, you have the wrong die set for the 91/30. 7.62 x 54R is what you need.

[MWesner55]

Ah yes. I misspoke. I have the dies for the 7.62x54r dies. Not 7.62x39.

[ukrifleman]

Good advice to buy at least 1 good reloading manual BEFORE you start.

Lee's Modern Reloading is a great way to learn, it takes you through all aspects of reloading as well as giving a huge amount of load data.

Avoid progressive presses to start, you need to keep an eye on all stages of the reloading process for safety reasons.
A single stage press is perfectly adequate for loading and I would recommend it for a beginner.

Reloading is a straightforward but precise undertaking, stick to known load data for any given calibre and don't be tempted to `wing it`!

A cartridge that took minutes to load will let you know within nano-seconds after you squeeze the trigger if you got it wrong!
ukrifleman.

[Benjlan]

Lee classic turret is an outstanding press with a respectable load rate. Get the kit and a good digital scale and you'll be set.

[MWesner55]

What about case trimmers and case lube?

[mac1911]

1st as many said get some manuals-----check your library for manuals save you a little money for now.
1. absolute cheapest reloader out there http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jySVxS6Wi4k, how well it works and how it works with cast is different story(i had ok luck)
2. almost any of the single stage press kits will get you going I have the hornady clasic 007 press
3. RCBS trim pro you will need to buy proper pilot and shell plate for 54r
4. powders I like so far unigue,2400 and trailboss
5. I use rcbs case lube and lee liquid alox for bullet lube...but I just did my first pan lube tonight with white label lube
6. primers...i have to use what i can get in the large rifle
7. brass you can either buy it new grafs usually has it or buy privi brand ammo and have fun shooting it for a 75-1$ a shot to get brass, most convenient option for me.
8. I cast a 314299 lyman mold and size to 314 with gas check my bore slugged at 313. my best group to date is about 1 1/2 CTC @ 50 yards out of a not so nice bore useing trailboss.
I also had nice results shooting fmj with reduced loads of 4895
if you google reduced rifle loads with H4895 and or trail boss you will find the formula for these powders.

[nicholst55]

Grafs is about your only option for brass that's less than $1 a pop. They did have some in stock last week when I was surfing their website, but you'd better act fast because it won't stay around long. Shooting corrosive-primed milsurp isn't bad in a bolt gun, and clean-up is pretty straight forward. Water is your friend, followed by normal cleaning procedures. Be sure to wipe down everything that might have gotten even a trace of powder gases on it, though - bore, bolt face, firing pin tip, muzzle end of the barrel, etc. Finish up with a water-displacing oil, and you'll be golden.

[MWesner55]

Thanks everyone. That was some real great advice and it was exactly what I was looking for!