Polishing leather question.

[pergoman]

I have purchased a new all leather IWB holster for my Sig 938. The problem is that the gun has a matte finish which really sticks to the split leather inside the holster. It is smoother than suede but definitely not glossy like the outside. This isn't helped when my belt is made tight enough to hold my pants up. It is almost impossible to draw the gun. Certainly not a good scenario.
I placed a thin plastic grocery bag section over the gun and inserted it in the holster to see how slick it made things. Viola! retention still seemed secure enough while allowing me to draw if needed.
How can I polish the inside of the leather holster so that I can draw when needed? A dremel with polishing compound on a felt pad hasn't done the trick.

[Frank46]

Try rubbing the inside of the holster with an old tooth brush handle (plastic)or try some leather conditioner. Thats all I can think of. Frank

[Dryball]

Pergoman, wrap 3 (or so) layers of Saran-wrap around the area of your gun that will make contact with the leather. Soak or apply a copious amount of rubbing alcohol to the inside of the holster letting it soak in. Insert your wrapped gun into the holster and let it dry. Voila...the holster will be form fitted to your gun. After you may wish to apply some Neatsfoot oil or real mink oil to the inside to re-moisturise the leather. Good luck

[220swiftfn]

Pergoman, wrap 3 (or so) layers of Saran-wrap around the area of your gun that will make contact with the leather. Soak or apply a copious amount of rubbing alcohol to the inside of the holster letting it soak in. Insert your wrapped gun into the holster and let it dry. Voila...the holster will be form fitted to your gun. After you may wish to apply some Neatsfoot oil or real mink oil to the inside to re-moisturise the leather. Good luck

NONONONONO!!!!!!! Agree with the wrapping (this is called "blocking" BTW,) but don't use alcohol to moisten when you do it..... And DEFINITELY don't use Neatsfoot or mink oil, these are great for horse tack that you WANT to be soft and supple, not a holster that you want to have some stiffness to.....


To the OP, if you're really still sticking after blocking, I've had good luck with a SMALL amount of silicone left on the gun (wiped with a silicone rag, and then wiped off with a clean rag) every three days or so to help the holster break in. Soon enough, that split grain will get burnished smooth by the gun, but if you go too far, you won't know it until it's "loose as a goose"..... BTW, you didn't mention what kind of belt you're using, so the possibility exists that a good double layer gunbelt will cure some of the draw problems that you have.....



Dan

[Dryball]

220...please don't act like my technique is wrong or yours is the only one out there. I have used this method on several CCW holsters and knife sheaths that I have made. It works for me and several others that I have done this for. I appologize in advance for possibly being sensitive or taking it in an unintended manner but how can I when you post...NONONONONO!!!!!!! If it is only a little tacky I might try Frank's method too.

[220swiftfn]

220...please don't act like my technique is wrong or yours is the only one out there. I have used this method on several CCW holsters and knife sheaths that I have made. It works for me and several others that I have done this for. I appologize in advance for possibly being sensitive or taking it in an unintended manner but how can I when you post...NONONONONO!!!!!!! If it is only a little tacky I might try Frank's method too.

That was as an attention getter, apparently it worked......(possibly too well....) The thing that I was trying to get at was that the neatsfoot and mink oils soften the hell out of the leather, and it's very easy to go past "Wow, this is a great holster" and into the "This holster is limper than a wet noodle and I need three hands to re-holster".... Not knowing the person on the other end of the post (or their abilities, expertise, or knowledge) tends to lead to a less aggressive approach being advised (the way that I posted will take a couple weeks, but it's very hard to screw up......)


Dan

[MaryB]

I rubbed the inside of mine don with Kiwi Leather Lotion before I sewed it. Holster is snug but slides out nice.

[0369]

If you haven't come up with a solution yet, coat the inside with resolene. It will seal it and slick it up while preventing dust from accumulation and accelerating finish wear on the gun.

[fouronesix]

I agree with 220swftfn on this one. Judicious blocking is OK but softening is usually counterproductive. You want a mechanical type fit and resistance but not one with a lot of limp friction. My thoughts are a small application of silicone or a wax like Renaissance where over time the handgun will burnish the contact surfaces of the holster. A product that I've found helps the burnishing effect even on spit leather is Tan-Kote by Flebing's.

Also, good point about the gunbelt itself. It needs to be somewhat stiff and if it's a stand alone type and separate from the pants belt- then for sure use tight keepers that tie the gun belt to the pants belt. If it's a holster looped or clipped on regular pants belt then the pants belt needs to be as wide and stiff as possible.

[Just Duke]

This is funny.
As a leather worker and I'll speak for most leather workers, we all use a product called Gum Tragacanth. You can pick it up at Tandy Leather. You apply it to the internal raw/rough side of the leather and bone it slick. All my rifle scabbards are done this way on the insides and if not the rough side of the leather would pretty much wear the finish off the rifle stock and the bluing and anodizing included. http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/en-usd/product/eco-flo-gum-tragacanth-2620-140.aspx

[Just Duke]

Pergoman, wrap 3 (or so) layers of Saran-wrap around the area of your gun that will make contact with the leather. Soak or apply a copious amount of rubbing alcohol to the inside of the holster letting it soak in. Insert your wrapped gun into the holster and let it dry. Voila...the holster will be form fitted to your gun. After you may wish to apply some Neatsfoot oil or real mink oil to the inside to re-moisturise the leather. Good luck

Oh My! I use some Alcohol prior to dying but never copious amounts. Most leather product from a manufacture are virtually dry and and could use some sort of conditioning.
Alcohol can quickly dry leather out quick enough to cause cracking once flexed.

[smokeywolf]

I strongly suggest you follow DUKE's recommendation. He is not just a leather worker. He's a craftsman par excellence. Do a search of his postings and you can see pics of some of his work.

As the son of a saddle maker I can also vouch for the use of Gum Tragacanth followed by rubbing with bone as the default method for the burnishing of leather.

smokeywolf

[fouronesix]

Another way to think about it is. For darn sure serious carry of a self defense handgun don't even go with a "traditional" all leather holster but invest in a modern polymer/spring steel re-enforced leather composite. The idea after all is secure carry with no friction draw. Otherwise start with or invest in a leather holster that is relatively thick, of high quality that maintains it's form and stiffness over time. "Conditioning" to many simply means adding oil of some type on a regular basis which will ultimately defeat the best utility of the holster.

I have an early 1900s (1901-2) high quality leather holster that carried a Colt SA that I guarantee was not conditioned or treated with much of anything other than it was kept clean or occasionally polished on the outside with something like the equivalent of Kiwi neutral. The only oil it likely saw came from the surface of the handgun it carried. It has no cracks, it still has stiffness and has retained it's form. I imagine the leather used in this holster was very high quality with whatever oil remaining from when it was originally tanned/processed.