PDA

View Full Version : How do I keep sprue plate alignment bolts from walking out on Lee Mold?



creature
07-15-2013, 05:24 PM
My Lee likes to have the alignment bolts somewhat loose to cast good bases(without flash) on the bullets. The problem is that they walk out further and then I have to tighten them back down. It happens every couple times and is a real PITA.

11B-101ABN
07-15-2013, 05:39 PM
I drill a hole from the side and put a set screw in to keep them in place.

RobS
07-15-2013, 06:14 PM
I drill a hole from the side and put a set screw in to keep them in place.

An effective means and what I've done on a few occasions. I also put in a piece of flattened brass or aluminum prior to screwing in the set screw so it doesn't ruin the threads of the sprue plate bolt.

creature
07-15-2013, 09:16 PM
I drill a hole from the side and put a set screw in to keep them in place.

So you just drill a hole and then screw in the set screw? You don't need to thread the hole some how? Does the set screw just cut it's own threads?

GLL
07-15-2013, 09:42 PM
I drill and tap set screw holes for the alignment pins as well as the spru plate bolt. While you are at it consider a countersunk hole for a screw under the sprue plate handle. It will save wear on the side of the mold where the pivot contacts the aluminum.
Since they now use CNC machines these are all things LEE should consider doing in the first place ! It would cost them pennies and they could raise the price of a mold by a $1.00 !

Jerry

gunoil
07-15-2013, 10:55 PM
http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k511/putt2012/69D15AB2-2088-49DF-801C-E04E6E162E77-1426-000007BDE541E3F1_zpsbd86d635.jpg

creature
07-16-2013, 07:01 AM
Well looks like I'm off to Harbor Freight this morning to get a drill and tap set. Any words of advice before I maim this mold. Lol jk... I hope.

gunoil
07-16-2013, 07:36 AM
drill press to keep em holes straight. Maybe some of the newest mold lube from bayoubullets.net

captaint
07-16-2013, 08:25 AM
creature - It's not that hard. Just center punch where you want to drill your hole. Be careful to drill it straight. Use an 8x32 screw & tap. Any more questions - ask.... Mike

dudel
07-16-2013, 09:24 AM
An effective means and what I've done on a few occasions. I also put in a piece of flattened brass or aluminum prior to screwing in the set screw so it doesn't ruin the threads of the sprue plate bolt.

I've used a ball of lead shot for that.

Echo
07-16-2013, 11:15 AM
I've used a ball of lead shot for that.

Me too...

creature
07-16-2013, 01:31 PM
I just used this situation as an excuse to buy a drill press and tap and die set. Lucky me :D.

Thanks for the help guys!

merlin101
07-16-2013, 01:44 PM
Well looks like I'm off to Harbor Freight this morning to get a drill and tap set. Any words of advice before I maim this mold. Lol jk... I hope.

HF taps will be fine on soft steel and aluminum but if your going to tap anything harder get a better set. Also make sure you use the TAP SIZE DRILL!! Do not use the "clearance" size bit. Drill slow and straight. After drilling and tapping drop a piece of lead shot in the hole, that way when you tighten the set screw it will crush the lead into the threads instead of crushing the threads themselves.

I GUESS I SHOULD'VE KEPT READING BEFORE POSTING THIS , BEAT TO THE PUNCH AGAIN![smilie=s:

prs
07-16-2013, 03:13 PM
When I tried lead shot in my 4 cavity Lyman molds, the lead simply melted during use. A nib of 10 gage copper wire works. Really hace not had too much grief like that from my 6 cavity Lee's.

prs

creature
07-17-2013, 04:10 AM
Also make sure you use the TAP SIZE DRILL!! Do not use the "clearance" size bit.
[smilie=s:

This statement left me a little confused. Couldn't I just drill the hole with a bit smaller than the tap bit(8x32) and then tap the threads?

Bloodman14
07-17-2013, 11:13 AM
Look for a drill and tap chart on google or yahoo. Download a copy; very handy.

bangerjim
07-17-2013, 11:37 AM
Your HF set should have clearance and tap drill sizes listed for every tap in the set.

You can get a very good "tap" size thread plate ant Loews or Home Despot. I have several of them.

And yes it is very critical you use the right drill and not just "one that is a bit smaller". Using the ultra-cheap HF stuff, you will break the tap off in the mold if the drilled hole is only a few thousands too small! Stick to the charts for clearance vs tap drill sizes and do not deviate. You will not need a 100% thread, but guesstimates have led to many broken and un-removable taps from expensive items.

I have never broke a tap in the many thousands of holes I have tapped in my time.

I have lots of taps and dies that are over a 100 years old and still going strong....because the sizing info was followed. I have one set that is from 1865! Think of the history it has seen.

bangerjim

creature
07-18-2013, 10:20 PM
I found this chart:
http://www.shender4.com/thread_chart.htm

If I'm understanding it correctly, for a 8x32 tap, I would need a #18 drill bit. Is that right?

creature
07-19-2013, 11:59 PM
About to drill into this thing. Is the #18 drill bit the one I'm looking for?

freebullet
07-20-2013, 12:04 AM
Do a search. I just posted "fixing lee 2cav sprue screw for dummies & rednecks" a few days ago. It's a pic heavy tutorial on how I do it.

snuffy
07-20-2013, 12:39 AM
Tap & drill chart.

http://www.physics.ncsu.edu/pearl/Tap_Drill_Chart.html

Using some light oil on the tap will help make cleaner threads. Blow the chips out after tapping, then use some mold lube on the threads so the set screw won't oxidize to the threads.

creature
08-16-2013, 07:24 PM
I just wanted to update this thread. I got the holes drilled and tapped and I found these set screws that have a brass tip on the end. Looks like they will work great.

http://www.bqcf.com/bqcf.com_brass_tip_set_screws.html