Ruger Bisley 45 Colt thread crush question

[robpete]

Hi all,

I have a brand new 45 Colt Bisley on the way(courtesy of Skimmerhead). I remember reading awhile back that thread crush is very common in these guys. How do I detect this? Is there a special slugging technique that I can follow?

Thanks in advance,
Rob

[BABore]

Pound one slug all the way through from muzzle to forcing cone. Pound a second slug just below flush with the muzzle, then back out. This is a bit tricky as you can't easily drive it back out the muzzle. I use a soft lead, hollow egg sinkers for all slugging. drill out the hole for a small headed nail. It should stick through the sinker at least an inch or so. Crimp the ends of the sinker down to hold it in place. Lube it up and drive it in, nail head first, with a hollow punch made from brass or plastic. I've even used a fired 30'06 case. To remove, bend the free end of the nail over 90 degrees. Lock a pair of vise grips on the nail and pull the slug out by striking the vise grips with a plastic mallet. Others have reportedly used short sections of wood dowels inserted in the bbl through the frame window. You can get an angle on the last one hanging out the forcing cone to tap the slug out. Never done it that way myself. Measure the difference between the muzzle and full pass slugs. If you have any degree of thread choke, the full pass slug will be the smaller of the two. You can usually feel the thread choke with a tight fitting patch/jag. You will also not it when driving a slug through.

[Tatume]

Why not just shoot the gun and see if it shoots well? Most do.

[robpete]

BAB- what size egg sinkers do you buy? I've never used them. Thanks

[BABore]

BAB- what size egg sinkers do you buy? I've never used them. Thanks

I take a mic with me and get ones just above bore size. Even if they're 0.030 to 0.050" oversize, they pound in. They come in various sizes, I just never bothered with charting size #'s or weights with diameters. JUst make sure the ones you get are soft lead. Some of the newer ones are using some pretty hard lead which will give you springback and thus bad measurements. The hole through the center gives the soft lead someplace to collaspe into. This helps with springback as well.

[DougGuy]

Use a #8 egg sinker. You will have to squeeze it in a vise or hit it a time or two with a hammer to swage it wider in the middle because it's a little undersize for a .45 bore. I used the hole in mine and got a #4 machine screw through it and drilled a hole in a wooden dowel and glued the screw in that hole. I wouldn't do a rifle with a wooden dowel but slugging a pistol bore where you don't have to drive it in very far is fine and the dowel will let you pull it back out easy enough.

What you can also do with that slug after it comes out of the front of the barrel, is see if it will go in the front of the cylinder. Likely you have not only a thread constriction but tight cylinder throats as well. Mine did. After measuring mine I had a bore dia. of .452" and a thread constricted dia. of .449" and the cylinder throats were .4505" on average. This is typical of Ruger .45 caliber revolvers, some can get up to .006" constricted.

When I did the full pass slug, it has a certain resistance traveling down the bore, but when it got to the part where the threads are, man I couldn't believe the effort it took to drive it all the way through. It just stopped and I had to beat the daylights out of it, and that was only with .003" difference from bore diameter.

After that, there was no way I would be not addressing that issue so I traded some stag grips for a taylor throat reamer and a manson cylinder throat reamer and opened them both up. I can slug the bore now and there is nothing but a constant resistance from one end to the other, and once the slug drops out it will barely slide into the front of the cylinder throat which I used the .4525" reamer on. The gun shoots great and no leading to speak of.

Oddly enough there are many shooters that won't ever have a problem with this constriction because if you shoot softer lead or j words, they will happily swage down and go through the tight spots, then swage back up somewhat if there is enough gas pressure behind them. It's only with hard cast alloys that problems are visibly noticeable. The hard cast heavy weight boolits will shoot to a higher point of impact, because the resistance to swaging down creates more pressure and therefore more muzzle rise. They don't swage back up once in the barrel either.

My 4 5/8" Vaquero shot 340gr WFN over 22gr of 296 to 6" above point of aim in 50' before getting "dimensionally corrected." After reaming and throating it dropped the point of impact for that same load to right on top of the front sight blade. Gotta love that. The 300gr Hornady XTP over the same 22.0gr of 296 did not change point of impact before or after the work was done.

[WARD O]

Here's another option, take your lead slug and as soon as you have it mashed into the end of the barrel, make an index mark at 12:00 so after you tap it all the way thru the barrel you can then carefully reinsert it into the muzzle with just a little lube and push it gently thru the barrel - if you have thread choke you will feel it when you get to that area of the barrel.

ward

[j_dude77]

You could just go to a machine shop and have them use a plug gauge. That will definitely tell you. I have one where I live and they are more than happy to help a person out, plus they don't mind BSing for a bit.

[9.3X62AL]

Luckily enough, none of my BisHawks or Blackhawks have discernible thread choke, as confirmed via both tight patches on jags and follow-up with pin gauges. I would likely fire-lap or hand-lap such an anomaly out of a revolver if one of mine were to show such a trait.

My Marlin 94CL in 25-20 had a couple tight spots in its barrel that I resolved by fire-lapping. Accuracy improved noticeably after only a dozen RCBS 85 CM pure-lead slugs "lubed" with auto polishing and rubbing compounds blended into Javelina 50/50, then hand lubed and assembled atop 2.0 grains of Red Dot. I still have a vial of these concoctions sitting around for any further such enterprises.

[prs]

I have two 45Colt RBV and one plow handeld 45Colt RV. No thread crush noted on any of three, BUT all three had to have too tightly cut cylinder throats opened to shoot lead worth a hoot. Mine are the older, heavier models so maybe that has been corrected.

prs

[Ed K]

Will a thread-choked barrel rebound when removed from the frame? If so, relieving the shoulder and re-inserting without so much torque rendering an opportunity to cut an improved forcing cone and improve cyl. gap would be side benefits. Understanding that this is not something that should have to be done on a new revolver and would be beyond the abilities of many. Mainly just asking to see if the choke will subside when the barrel is removed from the frame.

[DougGuy]

prs I understand the New Vaqueros are closer to .4515" than the typical .450" - .4505" of the Original Vaquero.

[DougGuy]

Ed K I am told it won't spring back when removed from the frame. The frame is really hard, a lot harder than the barrel and those threads are a compression thread that Ruger uses their own proprietary threadlocker on to serve as both a lube and a threadlocker when they put the barrel into the frame.

[44man]

It is not that common thankfully.
I make two measurements, one with a pure slug all the way through. Then I put a length of 3/4" thick Micarta or oak on the recoil plate. I drop in a brass rod with the end close to the muzzle, enough deep to put a slug above it. Drive the slug in and put the muzzle on a pad so you can grab the ends of the Micarta or oak stick on each end and push the slug out the muzzle. Make the stick long enough for a hand hold each side. You might have to tap on one end.
You can gang short lengths of brass in the barrel so if you get stuck, you can remove each piece from the rear. Don't use wood dowels.
The brass needs to be a close bore fit.

[44man]

Will a thread-choked barrel rebound when removed from the frame? If so, relieving the shoulder and re-inserting without so much torque rendering an opportunity to cut an improved forcing cone and improve cyl. gap would be side benefits. Understanding that this is not something that should have to be done on a new revolver and would be beyond the abilities of many. Mainly just asking to see if the choke will subside when the barrel is removed from the frame.
Ruger barrels are TOUGH but not "HARD". They will not spring back and it is not the torque used to turn the barrel home. Some Ruger's just had a tighter thread on the barrel then in the frame.
99% of Ruger .45's I have worked on had throats too small with good barrels.
Leave the cone and gap alone.

[Char-Gar]

With the advent of the firearms related internet forums, the notion that guns have to be tweaked, modified or tricked out to shoot well seems to have taken over like a steam roller. Much of this stuff is just guys, who like to mess with their guns, often with no real purpose other than entertainment. Nothing bad with this, until others start to think this stuff is necessary for decent performance.

When you get that new Ruger, enjoy it, shoot it a couple of thousand times and then make up your mind if you need to mess with it. Most likely you will find out, the handgun will shoot better than you can and forget the modifications.

[44man]

Char-Gar is right. All that is needed for cast are throats about .0005" larger then groove.
Seen too many spend thousands, custom this and that where the gun shot no better. They sure LOOK better.

[Tatume]

Why not just shoot the gun and see if it shoots well? Most do.

Like I said....

[Outpost75]

Ruger hasn't used a class UN3A thread in over 20 years. Current production uses the thread locker so they can avoid use of an interference fit and still keep the barrel tight. This is comon practice in the industry. The thread locker also serves as a sealant to keep penetrants which are too high in chlorides from migrating into the threaded areas, which would cause problems in the old methods where the barrel was a force fit. That hasn't been done since the late 1980s.

Just use bullets which fit, alloys correct for the pressure level and suitabld loads. The gun will shoot.
If you have an older gun with constriction at the root of the barrel thread, which is measureable more than0.0005" with plug gages, return it to the factory and they will fix it.

[DougGuy]

The barrel constriction isn't a problem, until you start shooting hard cast through it. Once you get to about BHN18 no amount of pressure behind the boolit will obturate it enough to seal the bore once it has been sized down by the constriction. Therefore, the softer the alloy, the more forgiving it is with a constricted barrel, and j words won't even know it's there because they obturate with the least amount of pressure behind them.

Tight cylinder throats can be an easy and painless fix, and there is perfect logic in having those opened up/evened up. You can get fliers from the tighter throats because they cause a different pressure curve than a throat that is larger, and that affects point of impact downrange.

[Char-Gar]

The barrel constriction isn't a problem, until you start shooting hard cast through it. Once you get to about BHN18 no amount of pressure behind the boolit will obturate it enough to seal the bore once it has been sized down by the constriction. Therefore, the softer the alloy, the more forgiving it is with a constricted barrel, and j words won't even know it's there because they obturate with the least amount of pressure behind them..

Did you read post #19 above?

Somewhere down this razor blade of life, somebody wrote about the perils of a "thread choke" and how to fix it. That got repeated, and repeated, and repeated and repeated until it became accepted as true. There a boat load of people that will swear under oath that their guns shot smaller groups after they lapped or otherwise did away with the constriction caused by screwing the barrel into the frame.

A "crush fit" between the barrel and the frame was a short lived thing by the various handgun makers. The fear of a "thread choke" has lived on way beyond the life of the actual problem. It has now become an expectation that every sixgun have such a thing and it must be dealt with.

[DougGuy]

Yes Char-Gar I read that. The Vaquero I described in post #6 above must have been the exception because it was really bad and it was made in 1996. Long after outpost says the crush fit threads went away. I slugged it both ways, one all the way through and one halfway down and back out and the differences were very easy to measure with a mic. The amount of force needed to drive the first slug past the threaded part was 3x what it took to drive it down the bore to the threads.

And I'm not at all taking this to an argument. I understand what you and 44man are saying about this anomaly, I'm just saying that I had one that was well documented that it was constricted. It had been back to Newport twice in the time I had it. It proofed and shot well at the home port because they use a soft lead cowboy load for testing. I noticed no real improvement in group sizes after throating/cylinder reaming because it shot pretty good once it came back the second time (shot almost 10" to the left of poa, and they fixed that). It did however drop the point of impact of some very hard 340gr TC boolits I had, by almost 6" in less than 25yds. That was the only hard proof that throating the barrel did anything. None of the j-word loads changed poi, and they were sized .451" as well.

Since that time I have developed 5 loads that will shoot to the top of the front sight blade and I'm tickled as a hog in a wallow over that. That's not an easy thing to do with a fixed sight revolver and I don't think I could have accomplished that with the barrel the way it was.

And with all due respect to you and the other fine and highly acknowledged big bore guys on this forum, this was my experience with one gun, I have kept load data and photos of targets since I owned this one, and it taught me that not only can you learn a lot on this forum listening to guys like you, but you can also learn from your own gun if you know what to look for.

[robpete]

I'm not sure if that post was aimed at me Char-Gar or if it is just a general comment....but I started this thread with the hopes of getting pointers on how to detect possible thread crush. Nothing more. We seem to have strayed a bit.......

PS-I follow now. Missed the quote above post. Still off base though.

[DougGuy]

My apology robpete..

2 pointers that didn't even make the thread.. With a clean barrel take the cylinder out and put a bore light in the barrel at the forcing cone or simply put a piece of white paper on the recoil shield and shine a maglite at it. Look down the bore and if you see a slight distortion in the light reflecting in the grooves about where the barrel meets the frame, that might be a clue, mine had that, it was a shadowy ring that went all the way around right where the barrel flange met the frame.

Another one is to take a jag on a cleaning rod and patch it real tight, send it down the bore. If there is any noticeable tightening of that patch where the threads are, that's a clue. If the tension on the rod doesn't change, there is no constriction or if there is one, it's so minute it's not likely to hurt how the gun shoots.

[robpete]

Thanks Doug. I'll give those a try.

[Char-Gar]

Robpete...I think the jist of what I and other old hands were trying to say is; Shoot the handgun before you try and hunt down potential problems. If there is a problem it will raise it's ugly head in due time. Don't jump over snakes that have not crawled across your path.

Over the years, I have encountered many used handguns up for sale that their prior owners had decided needed to be worked on. I and many others will not buy such a handgun for all to often the improvements are not.

With proper attention to loading details and a proper break-in period, most handguns will make their original owners happy if given a chance. I have gone through a period of my life where I felt the need to improve/tweak every gun that came my way. Now standing in the waters of calm reflection I realize that quite often that was not a good idea an/or a waste of time and money. I am just trying to shorten the learning curve for folks that is all. I do realize that many folks do not appreciate this effort. But that is another study in human behavior.

Have fun and be safe with your new pistola.

[340six]

With the advent of the firearms related internet forums, the notion that guns have to be tweaked, modified or tricked out to shoot well seems to have taken over like a steam roller. Much of this stuff is just guys, who like to mess with their guns, often with no real purpose other than entertainment. Nothing bad with this, until others start to think this stuff is necessary for decent performance.

When you get that new Ruger, enjoy it, shoot it a couple of thousand times and then make up your mind if you need to mess with it. Most likely you will find out, the handgun will shoot better than you can and forget the modifications.

My 45acp/45Colot SS 4 5/8' Bisely shoots well with any 45 acp style cast bullets sized to .452 I shoot.
It shoots wel out the box with RCBS 230 round nose, RCBS #200 SWC {is a #68 clone} and a old Lyman 452389, in 45acp cases. The 452389 is best paper punch bullets in it.
The Colt cases like the 454190
All bullets get Red Carnuba lube Had it since 2010 was new a Lipseys Gun
http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee87/fast340six/Gun%20Pics/loadingroom009.jpg (http://s234.photobucket.com/user/fast340six/media/Gun%20Pics/loadingroom009.jpg.html)

[DougGuy]

^^^ All of which has exactly NOTHING to do with the OPs post or the topic of the thread..

[ironhead7544]

LBT sells slugs that will allow you to tell the difference. They fit a cleaning rod. You put the slug into the muzzle and mark it at the front sight so you can put it back into the barrel at the some spot. Then you pull it out and measure it. Run it down the bore, no hammer is necessary, just push on the rod. You will be able to feel any restriction and then measure the slug again. If you have any restriction the first measurement will be larger.

I quit using hammer in slugs years ago when I found out about the LBT slugs.

[9.3X62AL]

Some more wise counsel by Char-Gar, as usual. I did a lot of gun-buying and -selling in the late 1980s and early 1990s, and this seems to have been the Heyday Of Thread Choke And Crush Fitting. I made and make a practice of checking for it as I related in my earlier post to this thread, but haven't encountered it (or perceived it, at least).

Virtually all of the revolvers I've retained over the years were and are "good to go" right out of the box. Same goes for the examples I sold off. Makers generally get things right, and most will make them right if given the chance to do so when such is not the case.

One exception to this trend was my mid-1990s Ruger Bisley Blackhawk in 45 Colt. Its throats were .448"-.449", and grooves were .452", smooth and unchoked from stem to stern. I spent a few years with it, trying all manner of home-cast and commercial boolits in an almost fruitless search for a boolit that would 1) shoot well and 2) not bush the barrel down to 42 caliber after 25-30 castings. It did shoot j-words pretty well, from 185 to 250 grains--and it would shoot Lyman #454490 all right and not leave a lead mine in its wake, owing to its gas check. But it was truly a One Boolit Wonder, and that grated on my nerves considering its caliber. An added irritation was that I let go a NICE Uberti Cattleman in 45 Colt that shot far better with a wide range of cast boolit weights. That Aldo cost 2/3 what the Ruger ran me, too. Expletives deleted.

Like many others, I secured the use of the piloted reamer set that opened the throats to .4525". Buckshot set me up with cutting oil, and I followed his advice in hand-running the reamer into and through the throats. I followed this up with aluminum oxide 600 grit paper to get to .453", which was a very short-duration spin in each throat. Results were immediate and dramatic--the revolver shoots wonderfully, no longer leads the bore, and just dotes on plain-based boolits of all weights sized at .454" transitioning through those .453" throats and into the .452" grooves.

This sole success has not and will not produce a series of similar shop ventures. I do run a Tale Of The Tape on all new or new-to-me firearms that land here, and my strong preferences are to leave well enough alone if at all possible. That basically means that I adapt my loading and sizing efforts to cater to their dimensional quirks, rather than turn wrenches on tools that likely work fine as-is with slight adaptations. Murphy's Law gets no plea bargains, and in gun-related questions Murphy is often naively optimistic. That's my story, and I'm stickin' to it.

[Char-Gar]

Over the past fifty odd years of shooting handguns, I have seen several waves of fads come and go;

First we cut coils off springs and ground flat springs to give a better trigger job. We started to break spring, induce misfires and cause timing problems. Eventually we quit that and decided just to shoot the darn things and in due time, they were as slick as owl snot on a glass door knob.

Then came the guys that sold reduced power spring kits and we bought them coming and going. They didn't break and worked just fine, until they got a little worn and then we were back with misfires and timing problems. So, we quite that and decided to shoot the darn things and after a while they were as slick as owl snot on a glass door knob and stayed that way.

Then somebody decided there was such a thing as thread constriction/choke and we needed for fire lap every sixgun barrel in the world. Well, that ended up with many barrels that were fire lapped about half of their service life out of them. So we quit that, or many of us did.

So, these things come and go, but for a time, they are the "thing to do". After enough decades of this, the notion bores through the various layers of fat around our brains that maybe somebody is making money off of us with these notions, or on some kind of ego trip as an expert and we follow suit like a bunch of robots.

Live long enough, shoot enough handguns, tweak and mess up enough handguns, lower the resale value and we will learn to just shoot the darn things and wait until they are well broken in before we decide we need to tweak anything. Most of them time, we will give up the notion or swap the darn thing as we go on our way as gun nuts.

Happy shooting, but tweak not until it has thousands of rounds through it. Most of our tweaking just add wear to a sixgun that will get there anyway.

Take your new pistols to the range and shoot if. If you hit what your are shooting at, you are good to go. If you don't hit what you are shooting at, chances are the problem is you or your ammo. You need to work on that and not your gun. I am 71 years old and with correct lens, I can shoot a handgun better than I could when I was 21. Why, but I have been shooting handguns for over 50 years and don't make the mistakes I once did with sight picture, grip, breath and trigger control.

[9.3X62AL]

Sgt. Mike--

It's not just bores that need to be given a good break-in, either. Sometimes it is entire mechanisms.

In 1987 when my old agency did the switch to bottom-feeders from rollers, we required a 2-day transition school for every deputy to attend on his/her own time, and that the shooter bring 500 rounds of factory ammo to that 2-day course. We shot every bit of it and more, not only to instill some muscle memory in the folks but to also give the pistols a good shakedown cruise. This regimen has been adapted into our basic academy now, where the old revolver-based coursework has been blended with the autopistol transition lesson plan into the general firearms training bit. Some of the modern autopistols can go right from the box as new and be field-reliable right outta the gate--Glocks and SIG-Sauer Classic series are noted for this--but I still want to run 300-500 rounds through my street iron before trusting my life or those of my loved ones to its capabilities. Trust, but verify.

In a less serious venue, Marie bought one of the the then-new SIG Mosquito pistols when they first came out (2004? or thereabouts), and while it was and is a nice little plinker......the thing refused to run reliably. This was a product trait of the early editions, and among the ideas advanced to enhance their utility was to 1) use CCI Mini-Mag ammo 2) fill magazines with same 3) spray the entire filled mag and contents with WD-40 4) slap the mag in place--release the slide--and fire away.

Oh, hell no. Marie was disgusted by the pistol's balkiness, and told me to sell it off. I made noises about doing so, but kept at the pistol, trying varying makes of ammo that worked even more poorly, and returning to the Mini-Mag Default Setting after each such debacle. Slowly but surely, that Skeeter was getting a little more tractable over time. The stoppages occurred less and less frequently, and if you cleaned the slide rails and breech face every 200 rounds or so it didn't give much trouble. After some 1500 rounds downrange, the little Bug ran quite reliably--on the CCI Steak & Lobster fodder. Now, with about twice that number through it, it will readily run any CCI ammo--Blazer through the exorbitant SGB, and all steps between. Sometimes, ya just gotta SHOOT THE THINGS. That Bug has some of the nicest sights I've seen on a plinker pistol, too. I can really hit well with that little monster.

[1bluehorse]

Hi all,

I have a brand new 45 Colt Bisley on the way(courtesy of Skimmerhead). I remember reading awhile back that thread crush is very common in these guys. How do I detect this? Is there a special slugging technique that I can follow?

Thanks in advance,
Rob


Pin gauges will give you that information very easily if you have access to them..they will not give you groove size but will find any tight spot in the bore...if removing them is worthwhile seems to be somewhat of a debate...if shooting jacketed bullets then maybe not but with cast it will.....the same folks that say you should ream the cylinders throats to at least bore size or a bit over for better accuracy and to help with leading issues (because undersized cyl throats will swage the bullet smaller than bore and you'll get poor accuracy and leading).... then say that a bore constriction (which does the exact same thing) is inconsequensal...whatever...I have had over ten Rugers, ( 9 of them 45 colts) Blackhawks, Vaqueros, and one Redhawk...the only one that didn't have a bore constriction is a 70's three screw Super in 44mag, it does however have .432 cyl throats...all others had undersized cyl throats .448-450, and "thread crush" and two of them had constrictions further down the bore....if you care to remove them you can do it a couple ways...shoot a few thousand jacketed bullets through it or firelapp it...firelapping is nothing more than "controlled wear"...I've firelapped all of mine....I get very little, if any leading...and they shoot very well....and I also believe they're a little "faster"....

[newton]

I've been out of the loop for a while. But I figured I would just give my personal experience here since I went through this last year.

I have a BH convertible that had some horrible constriction. I went through the whole slug this and that. Cylinder was perfect. I heard the arguments for and against lapping. I was told because this was my first big handgun then it was me which was shooting off.

I took all advice with a grain of salt. But eventually I did fire lap my barrel. I simply could not get rid of the leading when shooting my cast. I tried variations of hardness, lube, and boolit fit. Nothing worked and all of them leaded something horrible. I am sure my thread on here could be found again.

I did not lap out of the "hype" on the internet. And true as it is that I could have just shot...and shot...and shot some more, I simply wanted my gun to shoot good and clean easy now...not thousands of rounds latter.

I added it up. Jacketed bullets seemed to be the consensus to wearing down a constricted barrel. But even at 500, full power, rounds it was going to cost me a pretty penny for the ammo. In fact, to just shoot the restriction out till it was not causing my leading issue or my grouping issue would have cost me enough for half of a brand new gun. And this is all beside the fact that I have no desire to consistently shoot jacketed rounds out of my gun. I bought it for a cast boolit shooter.

Then you have to throw in the fact that most guys will never put 2,000+ rounds down their guns. Some guys have it for a weekend shooter.

So I took the plunge and fire lapped it. I do not regret it at all. It shrunk my groups and eliminated my leading issue overnight. I know for a fact that it worked. Did I shorten my barrel life? Oh yea, I am sure I did. But lets get real here. Would we not agree that cast boolits are easier on a barrel than jacketed? Is not cast plinking ammo has less wear, not only on barrel but forcing cone also, over full power jacketed rounds?

So yea, I shortened my barrel life, but I would have done the same with shooting all that jacked ammo also. Or, I could have just shot the snot out of it with cast, and continued to get bad groups and scrub the lead all the time until it finally decided to open up. Or, I could have done what I did and be very happy.

It really all depends on the individual, but I would not deem fire lapping a fad. It is a tool that is very useful given certain circumstances.

[newton]

I should note, I did the fire lapping with local products and not the online stuff made specifically for fire lapping. So I'm not a proponent of it for sales reasons, just a satisfied gun owner who enjoys doing things himself.

[RobS]

Well said newton, well said.

[newton]

this was my observation as well, and what I was attempting to point out, most do not simply shoot a high number of rounds through a gun to hit break-in. Which relates to what my Grandfather always told me and attempted to explain why a used gun shot better than a new one.
There are more experianced people on here than me as I did not sleep at a holiday inn last night.

personally I generally do hit the 1000 plus lol my week end shooting is 300-500 at a time

I wish I got to shoot that much. One reason I got into reloading, and then on too casting. My trigger time has raised significantly, but has not reached that point yet.

If I had to guess, and its a guess, I ran 500 or better before the lapping. I've since ran 500+. I've held off with supplies being down, but now am starting to load up again. The 45 is just a fun gun to shoot.

[newton]

Newton
where do you normally go to shoot?

My house. I have been to the shooting range before, but I like it better at my house.

[DougGuy]

Ruger will replace that barrel if you call them and tell them it's constricted. They will likely send you a prepaid UPS overnight label for it. That is a LOT cheaper than ammo.. And you would still get it back before deer season..

[newton]

Ruger will replace that barrel if you call them and tell them it's constricted. They will likely send you a prepaid UPS overnight label for it. That is a LOT cheaper than ammo.. And you would still get it back before deer season..

I have never heard of this? I might have gone this route had I known. I had heard that when it comes to the cylinders they tell you that they are "in spec" even if they are not all the same.

Do they ask you how you know the barrel is constricted? Would they back off replacement if you told them you pounded a slug down? I bet the best bet would be to use pin gauge.

Still makes me wonder what they consider in spec for the barrel. Seems to me that anything with any variance in the barrel would be out of spec, but I am not a gun maker.

[DougGuy]

I wouldn't tell them nothing unless they ask and then tell them you measured it. Just tell them the barrel has a noticeable constriction where it threads into the frame and see what they say.

[9.3X62AL]

^^THIS^^

Every contact I've had with Ruger Customer Service has been a delight for me. They seem to genuinely and reflexively want to help their customers.