Relining.

[JeffinNZ]

Team.

How is a barrel relined? How do you achieve a perect fit over such a long span?

[nhrifle]

Special drill bit with a piloted end that fits the current bore. Braze an extension on it to make a deep drill, apply lots of good cutting oil, drill half way thru, and reverse the barrel and drill out the remainder. Clean out the barrel with solvent, clean the liner. Apply epoxy to the liner and install in the barrel, making sure the breech end of the liner is in the correct orientation. Let cure overnight then trim both ends, face the muzzle and chamber the breech, reinstall the barrel and verify headspace.

[Bent Ramrod]

NHrifle has the process described perfectly. I think you can get the Brownell's instructions for relining .22 rifle barrels on their web site.

If you're really good, you can drill the old bore all the way out from the breech until the pilot comes out the muzzle and the drill is within a few thousandths of breaking out. The outside of the liner is then tapered to the same angle as the drill, and glued or soldered into the barrel as before. Looking at the muzzle, there is no indication that the barrel has been relined.

This requires a closely piloted drill and a good setup where no sagging or wandering of the drill can occur.

It is possible to do a reline job where the rifle shoots five feet to the left at 50 yards with the barrel sights hanging out of their dovetails. But to give the "gunsmith" who did this for me some benefit of the doubt, the liner was pretty bad; the inside was good, but the tube was very uneven on the outside. The liners that people make nowadays are very precise, inside and out, and a close fit is easy to make.

[GabbyM]

I'm a little surprised you don't need to run a gun drill reamer after the piloted drill.

[country gent]

Another issue is stress in the original barrel causing it to "bow" when being drilled. Newer blanks are much better in this respect as most are stress relieved at some point in manufacter some 2 times. A properly sharpened drill will cut fairly straight if chips are cleared regularly. The easiest deep drilling I did was with a hollow drill and coolant puched thru it to the point. It kept chips pushed out and from binding. This was on a cnc machine ant it cleared chips every .100 thousandths of foreward travel.Drilled those holes quickly and accuratly. With the existing hole if it is straight and true then the drill should follow very well. If not then its going to be a tribulation to get it straight as drills and reamers tend to follow the existing hole. Pumping coolant thru the bore to the drill would/is effective also.

[nhrifle]

I'm a little surprised you don't need to run a gun drill reamer after the piloted drill.

No need to ream after drilling. The drill cuts the new bore atleast .005" over the diameter of the liner, which allows for a thin layer of epoxy between the liner and new bore.

[Bent Ramrod]

Actually, it's better for a good bond to have some scratches and rings in the drilled surface of the barrel. Reaming or polishing would be counterproductive. The outside of the liner should be scuffed up a bit with coarse sandpaper also.

[rmcc]

Just did a 1914 Savage 22. Got all the stuff I needed,bit and liner, from Brownells. Most critical thing is cutting the extractor groove. I used a small SHARP file. After fitting, epoxy, and bluing it is hard to tell it was lined. Turned a wall hanger into a fun little shooter. The only thing I can stress is use LOTS of cutting oil, remove chips very often and take your time.



rmcc

[Andrew Mason]

is it possible to reline for a center fire rifle?
or just low pressure rim fire rounds?

[MarkW]

There are liners made for a few old lower pressure centerfire rounds (25-20, 44-40, etc)

http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/barrel-blanks-tools/barrel-liners/centerfire-barrel-liner-prod10976.aspx

[John Taylor]

The best liners come from T.J.'s 859-635-5560. On average I install a liner every week. I use an undersized piloted drill and ream for a closer fit of about .002" clearance which is not enough room for epoxy, I use high strength loctite. With a closer fit it is a bit easier to hide the line at the muzzle. T.J.'s has a larger selection of calibers from 17 to 58, he also makes barrels for the airgun crowd.
The bore does not need to be rough to hold with Loctite, just clean.

[Andrew Mason]

There are liners made for a few old lower pressure centerfire rounds (25-20, 44-40, etc)

http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/barrel-blanks-tools/barrel-liners/centerfire-barrel-liner-prod10976.aspx

bummer,
I have an old 8mm mauser that I would love for it to be a 7x57

[MarkW]

A new barrel in 7X57 is actually cheaper than a liner is:

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/413837/green-mountain-barrel-mauser-series-3-7x57mm-mauser-7mm-mauser-f14-contour-1-in-9-1-2-twist-21-chrome-moly-in-the-white

(not to get dragged into an argument on the quality of GM barrels, my experience has been positive)

You still need to fit and chamber, but you'd need to do that with a liner too.

[Andrew Mason]

A new barrel in 7X57 is actually cheaper than a liner is:

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/413837/green-mountain-barrel-mauser-series-3-7x57mm-mauser-7mm-mauser-f14-contour-1-in-9-1-2-twist-21-chrome-moly-in-the-white

(not to get dragged into an argument on the quality of GM barrels, my experience has been positive)

You still need to fit and chamber, but you'd need to do that with a liner too.

well, the kicker is that the rifle is a old mauser sporter, with a half round half octagon barrel.
so im not quite willing to put a new barrel on.

I am wiling to do a rebore, or a liner if possible. but it seems of the two, the rebore is more likely.

sorry to hijack thread.

[pietro]

.



FWIW, the .32 cal 8x57 Mauser is no slouch when properly loaded, and is fully the equal of a .30-06 - If I had a nicely-barreled Euro Sporter in 8mm, I'd spend my money on reloading gear instead of a rebore/reline.




.

[357maximum]

well, the kicker is that the rifle is a old mauser sporter, with a half round half octagon barrel.
so im not quite willing to put a new barrel on.

I am wiling to do a rebore, or a liner if possible. but it seems of the two, the rebore is more likely.

sorry to hijack thread.

Is the bore roached?...if not....... shoot it........ the 8x57 is a good round and will rival the good ol 30-06 in every way possible. If the bore is roached maybe a 35 whelen or 35X60 is in your future????? BadgerEdd has a 35x60 that was a JES rebore and that Mauser is in a word "awesome".

[John Taylor]

well, the kicker is that the rifle is a old mauser sporter, with a half round half octagon barrel.
so im not quite willing to put a new barrel on.

I am wiling to do a rebore, or a liner if possible. but it seems of the two, the rebore is more likely.

sorry to hijack thread.
T.J.'s has a 7MM liner with 1 in 10 1wist.

[waksupi]

All things being equal, I consider the 8X57 slightly better than the .30-06 for cast boolits.

[Cosmiceyes]

Well I am upset now.I didn't know this road existed today when offered a old drop block 22LR with a almost smooth-bore barrel.I could have just paid 63 dollars. D@*&%$#*((^^& and lots of other bad words.

[leftiye]

I'm a little surprised you don't need to run a gun drill reamer after the piloted drill.

Straight is important, but a rough surface adheres better with the epoxy.

[Cosmiceyes]

well, the kicker is that the rifle is a old mauser sporter, with a half round half octagon barrel.
so im not quite willing to put a new barrel on.

I am wiling to do a rebore, or a liner if possible. but it seems of the two, the rebore is more likely.

sorry to hijack thread.

Well a nice 9X57 would look good with that barrel! :)'s

[Andrew Mason]

Well a nice 9X57 would look good with that barrel! :)'s

I have thought about that,
But I think I would go to a.35 wheelen if I re-bore

[NVScouter]

I've been checking and the way Marlin does it now a 38-55 32" barrel isn't going to happen through them.

It's a 45-70 and I'm thinking a home reline project would be fun.

[Cosmiceyes]

I have thought about that,
But I think I would go to a.35 wheelen if I re-bore

I was going to do that but found out that the base of case will stretch a lot because a anything x57 is tapered. The case life would be short. There is what is known a 9.3x62 ? I was going to re-bore a 8x57 to .35 Whelen when I was educated on here. It would be nice if the re-bore was a was five sided like H&K makes their guns. That would be a great reloading experiment! :)'s

[MtGun44]

9.3x62 is about at .366-'06, if you look at it. About .008 bigger than a .35
Whelen. Pretty small differences.

What about action length? 8x57 is shorter than .30-06 and .35 Whelen.

Bill

[andremajic]

Special drill bit with a piloted end that fits the current bore. Braze an extension on it to make a deep drill, apply lots of good cutting oil, drill half way thru, and reverse the barrel and drill out the remainder. Clean out the barrel with solvent, clean the liner. Apply epoxy to the liner and install in the barrel, making sure the breech end of the liner is in the correct orientation. Let cure overnight then trim both ends, face the muzzle and chamber the breech, reinstall the barrel and verify headspace.

They're called subland drills and I found a couple on ebay at 1/2" diameter. If you know your pilot diameter and finished hole size you want, you could use google products to find some by using that keyword search.

If you grind the pilot down a couple thousandths, you can use em for boring out a worn out 30 caliber barrel.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/380203647653?lpid=82

At 25 bucks each, that's about a 50 dollar savings over brownells premade ones with minimum effort. Keep your eyes peeled and you could probably buy some at the exact dimensions you need as long as you're persistent searching.

Andy