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Bent Ramrod
07-02-2013, 03:15 PM
Last week I took the Color Casehardening Class at Lassen College in Susanville. Great place and great location. Lots of various interesting Gun Stuff going on in the building all week long; wish my own Alma Mater was that cool.

The last day, I was the official "Dumper." One guy opened and closed the oven, I got the crucibles out with tongs, held them while a third guy removed the covers, and then I had to overhand the crucibles, holding them by the tongs, so they crashed against the cover of the quench tank with the opening of the crucible in line with the hole in the top of the tank. This had to be performed in one smooth motion in seconds, since any outside air getting into the parts would ruin any chance for getting colors. Done right, the contents were jolted out of the crucibles, plunged into the swirling, aerated icewater in the tank and caught in the screen at the bottom.

It was like kids on Christmas morning when Quench Time happened late in the afternoon; everybody crowding around as the shielding was peeled off the parts and "Are there colors? How do the colors look? Wow!! (or Ehh...!)" from everybody. So I had plenty of audience to see my indifferent eye-hand coordination in operation aiming for that hole in the top. The crucibles were red hot, and even the regular size ones, fully loaded, are not light in weight, so if I had accidentally let one loose I probably would have burned the Child Development Center the next building over down to the ground. (Why do they need to "develop" Children nowadays anyway? Nobody ever "developed" me when I was a kid. I guess that's why I'm doing this kind of stuff as a delinquent adult.)

However, despite having to correct my aim at the dump site, almost everything came out all right; the only exceptions were the shielding setups that swelled and stuck in the crucibles from the heat and couldn't be easily jarred loose. Some that eventually came out after multiple bangings against the top were so full of charcoal and parts that they still made sizzling noises when they were fished out of the water. Amazingly, the colorations of most of these ranged from not bad to very good, in the sense that they had color patterns of more or less extent and quality. A lot of whether they are great, or good, or merely OK, is pure personal taste anyway. Only one setup, in a big crucible, stuck too tightly to be gotten out, no matter how much jarring and banging I did. Eventually the top shield broke away from the rest of it and the contents fell out, but by then the air had gotten in. They came out bluish-gray, but any bad color job can be done over after annealing and a little fine repolishing to get the blah colors off.

The big crucibles were very heavy, and too large for the hole, so they had to take the lid off the tank. I wish somebody had taken a photo of me dumping the one that emptied properly. The volcanic eruption of steam and charcoal must have gone up ten feet, and eight inches or so of the water and ice in the tank vanished immediately. The shotgun actions that were in that one came out spectacularly well.

My Ballard receivers pictured below have good colors, but (for my taste) too much blue background, considering that the other parts and the barrel will wind up being blued as well. I think I'm getting a handle on the "nuances" of the color generation, although, as usual, "more research is needed." As a frustrated former chemist, this search for the ideal color balance (essentially a thermal/chemical/dark-arts combination) could turn into quite the obsession for me. I'm trying to get lighter outlines on lines and edges, with the blue and other colors in the centers of panels and masses. The later efforts (like the back of the Single Action frame and the tangs of the Hopkins and Allen) began to show some of this in places, so I got a few ideas out of this session that I hope to check out in future experiments.

The little Stevens Favorite frame and lever in the fourth picture were a rusty, pitted mess before I started smoothing the outside surfaces. Spent the whole week sandblasting, drawfiling, sanding, buffing and polishing this and other equally aged and distressed parts while waiting for the polished stuff to come out of the heat treating oven. Had to scramble to have more parts ready for the next day, as only one heating was possible per day. Regardless of what I wished, some of the pits were too deep to remove in time, so in they went anyway. I am about polished out!

The Single Action revolver frame came out pretty well, considering I couldn't find the shielding box they used and had to improvise. The last day, I finally found the box, but by then it was too late. The Single Action frames from the box that I saw came out looking like Colt had done them. This one looks maybe more like Ruger did it; OK, I guess, but... The end shows that gray outline I would like to have along all the edges. Practice, practice! No substitute for it.

I have to commend Lassen College for the quality and helpfulness of the instructors. They lectured on the basics, consulted on the nuances and helped make shielding for us on the machine tools. Even the other students, unless they were having to concentrate on some task at hand, were glad to talk about what they were doing and what they had been doing in other classes. You could learn a lot just by osmosis; sitting around and listening to conversations. Nobody at this College was throwing Frisbees at dogs out on the lawns instead of attending classes; everybody there was motivated.

Anybody who is interested in learning gunsmithing techniques would do well to go on Lassen's website and pick some course(s) to take. I don't recall College being this much fun the first time around.:mrgreen:

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littlejack
07-02-2013, 07:34 PM
Very nice work.

45-70bpcr
07-02-2013, 09:13 PM
Beautiful. That is fascinating and what a great write up. I have always wanted to try color casing. Thanks for sharing.

Griff
07-02-2013, 10:45 PM
Gorgeous!!!!

Bent Ramrod
07-03-2013, 12:05 PM
Thanks, guys. It was a lot of fun.

EMC45
07-03-2013, 01:09 PM
Very cool.

john hayslip
07-03-2013, 03:04 PM
I had a gunsmith friend now dead who could fake case hardening fairly well. Since he is deceased I don't think he'll care if I share it. He'd take a five gallon bucket and put about 4 gallons of water in it and float a quart of automatic transmission fluid on top (I think any light oil would work and no I don't remember the type of ATF -when he was through he'd cover the bucket to use again on the next project.). He'd polish the piece to be done and once told me he thought it worked better if the polish job was not his best and then degrease it. Taking a torch he'd heat an area on it til he got the color he wanted and quench it. Just one spot. Then he'd go to an adjacent area and repeat. If one has a picture of or a a case hardened weapon handy one can do a pretty good fake job. The deepest color seems to be around the screw holes. After the first dip when the oil water mixture started to "snap" he'd quench again. It takes awhile but if you have a little artistic talent and a good pattern to look at you can do a respectable job. The nice thing about it is that it doesn't add "case" so there's no danger in getting the carbon too deep in a thin spot and making it brittle.. plus not much equipment needed.

oldred
07-03-2013, 03:56 PM
That is an interesting method but I am certain it would play havoc with a heat treated part (especially a receiver!) so I think a person would have to be very selective on which parts it would be used for. Still I can think of quite a few uses for that method, for certain parts anyway.

nekshot
07-03-2013, 03:57 PM
very nice work. John Traister "gunsmithing at home" lock,stock and barrel- book has been my guide for coloring metal. I am going to play with that oil in bucket trick a little also.
nekshot

nekshot
07-03-2013, 04:23 PM
I'll be darn, I took a used planer knife and polished it and tried the torch and oil trick and it does give a nice mottling effect but I was not able to get the vibrant colors we seek. This was only my feeble attempt and I would love to know more about it. I would be extremely careful with what I would heat up like because when the metal was the dull orange color it seemed to work best and that is not good for critical parts but it is intriquing.

Bent Ramrod
07-03-2013, 07:04 PM
Some of the gunsmithing books recommend tincture of benzidine dropped on the hot metal and cooked in with a torch. It's supposed to give a rainbow effect on the steel. (I seem to recall that benzidine is now a suspect carcinogen, but what isn't anymore, nowadays?)

Clyde Baker did an experiment on a receiver with selective torch use plus sprinkling and melting various salts, chemicals, charcoals, and whatever in various areas on the hot metal surface. He said it came out quite promising; someone willing to work at it could make it look pretty good. As mentioned, a heat treated part that needs a certain hardness would be annealed pretty good by this treatment.

We were enjoined to not bring in anything made of modern alloy steels (or unknown steels) for this treatment. An alloy that would harden clear through by heating and quenching, heated and quenched with these charcoals, would come out glass-hard all the way through, and shatter like glass at the first shock or stress. There was an unfortunate example on display of an Italian Single Action frame, beautifully colored, with a nasty crack down where the loading gate pivot goes into the frame. It had cracked on quenching. Apparently it was made of something other than the steel used in the old Colts and early Great Westerns. I bet whoever owned that frame was pretty sick about it, but better scrapped out then than upon being fired, with the cylinder full of rounds.

A few of the case colors we got did follow the tempering colors of iron or steel: the straw yellow, blue and gray-blue, certainly. I don't recall seeing a real bronze or purple temper color in any of the pieces that came out, and the light grays, reds, browns and bright yellows, and the iridescence of many of the colors after the color hardening and coating, don't seem to follow the tempering color scheme at all. Also, tempering colors are even more impermanent than case colors; a little handling and they are gone.

We were warned to not use galvanized wire to put our parts bundles together. Somebody in the past had used the stuff and got a lot of green in his color scheme.

A lot of the best color schemes occurred on the shielding metal and the bracing blocks that were around and inside the parts to be colored. They weren't polished, of course, but you could still see the nice framing of gray around the edges and the blue, yellow and red in the center. The part so braced and shielded would often be mostly blue, with yellow, red and occasional other colors more or less in the center of mass, but no light outline to set it off. This was plenty annoying, but if we could figure out what this was trying to tell us, we would all (presumably) be on the way to being Master Color Hardeners.

smithgar3840
07-04-2013, 01:55 PM
I've been interested in case coloring for awhile and am aware of the issues with modern through hardening steel becoming brittle. My question is that I know it can be done because Turnbull's does it all the time. I just wish I knew how.

calaloo
07-04-2013, 02:15 PM
Bent Ramrod.

Is your Ballard frame cast or forged? I have been told that color casing a Ballard cast frame is an "iffy" procedure. I have one I have considered doing.

john hayslip
07-04-2013, 03:02 PM
As I remember the heat /color chart you don't have to get a local area over 750 degrees to use the torch. You can't do the whole piece at one time - you probably can't do over 1/2 of a sq inch at a time. The color starts at a light brown and will work up to a pretty blue as the area heats up - the colors you want are somewhere in that range. The darkest colors on the real thing seem to be around the screw holes. You can get gold, brown, purple and blues easily. If you take a bar and start heating until you get the area under the torch blue you will see the other colors caused by cooler temperatures radiating up the bar.

LynC2
07-04-2013, 03:23 PM
Congratulations, it sounds like you did well and enjoyed yourself too! Nothing beats a beautiful case hardening on a period firearm in my opinion. The pseudo case hardening that some do just doesn't last and doesn't look right either. I'm curious; does one have to draw the temper afterwards?

Bent Ramrod
07-04-2013, 08:12 PM
Both the Ballard frames I did were cast ones, one for a .22 and the other for a .38 RF. I haven't shot the .38 (which has been relined into a .32-20) yet, and the .22 is a long way from being a finished rifle, but nothing untoward seems to have happened with either that I can see.

Naturally, these frames are not for high intensity, or even low-intensity, high capacity chamberings. That lady at the Quigley shoot last year demonstrated that to all of us. The .32-20 is not used with high speed loadings, mainly because I don't like to keep making new links and pins to retighten the lever.

The procedure the class used (heat to 1350F and soak for an hour; turn down to 1250F and soak for an hour, then quench) seemed to have very consistent results, with only minor, if any, warping and no problems fitting parts together afterwards. The sidelock shotgun frames with the complicated trigger plates and the watertight joints seemed to do fine. One of the students said he notices that the two extensions on Winchester single shot breech blocks are always a little bit closer together after treatment, but apparently not enough to prevent the action from going back together and functioning normally. Of course, we put various blocks, spacers, heat sinks and so on inside the cavities in the parts to be treated to ensure against anything like this happening.

I read somewhere that somebody "normalizes" their color hardened parts in an oven after quenching, but I can't see that the kind of steels and parts that are appropriate for case hardening in general would need such treatment, unless maybe some specialized tool is going to be made from mild steel for some reason. An hour at the 1350F temperature is only enough time for the carbon to penetrate a few thousandths of an inch into the metal surface, with the rest of the metal at its normal softness and ductility. Holding at the 1250 is supposed to be insurance against warping upon quenching. Tempering would only soften the surface, and the harder the surface, the slicker it operates and the better it wears.

Turnbull has it down to a science, for sure. One of the guys had pictures of a 73 rifle Turnbull had restored for him. It was fabulous. I don't know how he does alloy steels either. Trade secret, no doubt.

calaloo
07-05-2013, 09:27 AM
Thanks for the reply Bent Ramrod. I guess I will probably give mine a try. When I polished the frame I could tell that it wasn't hard. That, too, made me wonder. There was no finish anywhere so no way to know. I'm sure you have seen this thread on the Marlin Collectors site but if you haven't here it is.
http://www.marlin-collectors.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=3732

Bent Ramrod
07-05-2013, 10:40 PM
Cataloo,

I went over that Marlin thread at the class to see if anything new had been added. Looks like they have it down, at least for the parts and conditions they are using.

That guy Jim had the advantage of being able to drop his receivers in from top or bottom, while our smaller crucibles were narrow and only allowed front or back. Even our big ones would not have held a receiver with tangs horizontally.

Trying to follow his example, I wired a little piece of angle iron on the front of my packings for a few quenches. Generally I couldn't see a major effect, but on one or two pieces there was a gray outline beginning on the front, so maybe it does work under the right conditions. I'm starting to think that maybe it is the speed at which the water washes the charcoal away from the surfaces, as well as the relative rates of cooling of the areas on the parts, that determines the color scheme, rather than any particular charcoal blend or grind. We ran short of ice a time or two and the water warmed up after a few quenches, but this didn't seem to have any consistent effect, for good or ill, either.

But the Ballard receivers were the only ones that had a lot of red in them, so maybe some of the color scheme is a function of the formula of the steel.

TXGunNut
07-12-2013, 11:36 PM
Very nice, sounds like a very interesting class.