Military crimp remover/Lyman model ????????

[Willyp]

I have this crimp remover and my question is : How do you know when you've removed enough of the crimp???? I've tried it by hand turning and the primers may go in but are hard put in!
The next thing i tried was putting the remover into my drill and it worked better.The only thing is that it removed brass,not only from the crimp ridge but it also removed and made flat the area around the bottom or flash hole area? The primers felt more like they should,with a Lee hand primer!
My question is,Does this crimp remover make the primer pocket,sides and bottom,the proper size and depth?????? How deep should a primer pocket be? I only did a few cases.
I tried calling Lyman,a few weeks ago,to ask about a part and no one answered,just messages on their phone! I sent an e-mail and it took 5 weeks to get a reply!

[Sasquatch-1]

I will be interested in any answers you get on this also. I have just finished reaming out 2000 to 2500 pieces of 9mm. I found some had very heavy crimps and the tool had to be slowly worked in and others just felt like it was cleaning out dirt. Haven't reloaded any yet.

[Wayne Smith]

Lyman makes two tools. One is a primer pocket cleaner, the other is a primer pocket uniformer. If you have the latter that is exactly what it is supposed to do - make your primer pockets uniform.

[country gent]

Uniforming the primer pocket to size lead angle in and depth will help to lower standard deviations in most loads due to the anvil sitting square and fully supported at the same depth. I use a swage to remove crimps from primer pockets and then uniform on my Long range cases ( anything for 600 yds on out.) That is where you will really see the improvement in accuracy. On the stamped pockets the base is sort of funnel shaped as is and leaves the center of the primers anvil unsupported a little/ By cutting / uniforming the pocket it is the right dia and the base is square. Be sure to only remove enough to accomplish this as to deep will have the same effect as light hits. Go slow and clear the tool often you will see a small ring cut around outside of pocket base then with every turn it gets a little wider till the pocket is flat and true.

[MattOrgan]

The Lyman and other primer pocket reamers will stop cutting when they bottom out at the bottom of the primer pocket. So you should see a bright "rub" mark at the bottom of the pocket. You will "feel" when this occurs with a little experience and know when you can go to the next case. The primer pockets will be uniform in size and shape. Even the same lot of military brass will have differences in the amount of primer pocket crimp, giving you a different feel until the the reamer bottoms out. Crimped 9mm brass from various overseas manufacturers is the worst to deal with because of minor variations in primer pocket size, but a reamer from any manufacturer will give you a uniform primer pocket and the same feel when seating new primers.

I use my cordless drill to spin my reamers, placing the drill in a plastic storage box on my lap to catch all the trimmings.

[Willyp]

Well,being that i have gotten old,i was wrong...... My primer pocket crimp remover is a HORNADY!!!! So,i called them and they have told me the same as MattOrgan has written.
I did get another question answered,"How deep is a large primer pocket to be".The answer i got,after a little while waiting is: .125 min.to .132 max.

[jhalcott]

I use that double ended deburring tool with the guide pin chucked in a drill. Just turn the drill on and insert the cone end into the primer pocket for a second. Toss that case into the box and grab the next case! Don't be to aggresive or you will take to much. This is for most plinking and or Sillywet ammo(7TC/U), where a 5" group at 200 yards is good enough for the Rams. I have a couple friends who shoot ground hogs with various .22 center fires that load on progressive machines. They NEVER clean the pockets and say "It ain't neccessary"! I do not agree with them.

[Ed_Shot]

Used a new RCBS primer pocket swagger on some WCC 9MM brass this morning. Primed and loaded 100 rds .... seemed to work fine

[1hole]

All of our crimp removal tools work fine, the makers aren't all that dumb. What's "best" is personal opinion.

[mdi]

This can go in the FWIW category;

Depending on what you want from your reloads (.308 bench rest ammo, or 9mm/45 ACP just shootin' ammo) forming/sizing primer pockets may just be a waste of time (but then again, is any time reloading wasted?). For me and my ammo, removing enough metal to easily seat primers is my goal (same as with new brass). For nearly 19 years I have been using a 60 degree high speed countersink to remove military primer crimps (5.56, 45 ACP, 9mm, and 30-06) and have never had a problem. Being a lifelong machinist/mechanic, this is the first tool I reached for when I encountered primer pocket crimps...

http://www.mcmaster.com/#countersinks/=ngmtwq

[Wayne Smith]

I got the Lyman re-former because I had a bunch of pick-up Finocci tight primer brass and didn't want to toss it. One pass with the re-former in my drill motor and no more tight primer pockets and I have 100 more 45ACP brass.