Tokarev reloading question

[milsurpaddict]

Hello

I am sorry if this is not the proper place for this question. Please let me know if I need to redirect it to another area on the board. I have been reloading for my CZ-52 for awhile now. I know the load I like to use but this question is more along the lines of reforming 223 brass for the Tokarev. I have been using 223 milsurp brass cut down, necked reamed (interior diameter), and then reformed by running through the full length sizing die. When I complete the load and measure all aspects of the round, case length, OAL, and other measures they are all within the specs for the Tokarev round. However, when I go to fire the round sometimes I get one round off, sometimes I get three rounds off but eventually the slide will not fully go forward and the slide jambs tight on the round. It looks and feels like the round is to long and the slide can not go all the way forward. It might be but I do not think so the case wall thickness is a little to thick. This does not happen when I use real Tokarev brass and reload it. In addition, when I reload the few of the reformed 223 brass cases that did fire through the pistol these do not case any problem either. It seems that fire forming has taking what was the issue with them and has done away with it.

Please let me know any of your ideas and suggestions how to rectify this issue. (aside from buying Tokerev brass).

Thanks

[Freightman]

take the pin out of the sizing die and run the loaded rounds back through

[Outpost75]

In my CZ52 I have had best results using Starline brass, which is readily available. If you value your time as more than ditch digger wages it is not worth the effort to rework free 5.56 brass, trimming and neck reaming, when proper cases are available. I use an 88-grain shortened NEI#82 bullet cast of wheelweights, quenched from the mold, sized .311" and lubed with Lee Liquid Alox, with Federal 200 primers and 5.5 grains of Bullseye for 1350 fps. Drops the brass at your feet and more accurate than PPU Ball. I use Lee dies.

[milsurpaddict]

take the pin out of the sizing die and run the loaded rounds back through

Not trying to sound like a Smart @$$ because I am truly trying to understand. What good would this do? Are you trying to say the OAL is to Long or will the die correct something else?

[jimb16]

When I used to cut down .223 cases for reloading as Tok rounds, I always turned the outside of the neck instead of the inside. Then I ran them through the sizer a second time before loading them. The only problem I ever had was finding them after the shot! Those Toks really toss the brass.

[milsurpaddict]

Hello

May I ask how you turned the outside diameter of the case neck?

Thanks

[khmer6]

I think he was getting at setting a crimp on them after loading.

[mroliver77]

http://www.sinclairintl.com/reload/neck-turning-tool.aspx

With something like this.
J

[jimb16]

I made a cutter out of a piece of steel plate. I drilled a hole the proper diameter near the edge of the plate then cut a slot that intersected the hole at a sharp angle. I just had to turn the neck into the cutter and shave the outside of the neck. It only took about 4 seconds per case. An easier method would be to chuck the case in a Lee case trimmer base then chuck it into a power drill and use a very fine file to cut the outside down to proper thickness.

[mac60]

I encountered the same thing. After thinking it over and doing some measuring I decided the f/l sizing die wasn't setting the shoulder back enough. The folks at Lee were nice enough to remove a little off the bottom of the die. This and sizing the Lee 312-93-1R to .309 allowed rounds to chamber. Once I found out how well blue dot works in the 7.62x25 it was a done deal. Using blue dot and the Lee boolit reliability is 100% and accuracy is good. It was a little bit of a struggle, but I enjoyed every bit of it. If I had it to do over again, instead of sending the die back to Lee I'd just take a little off the shellholder.