simple Hi-Tek coating

[Love Life]

I want some dry coat!!

So the dry coat is a powder mixed with acetone and that's it? That is really cool. The 3 part liquid coating is very easy to use, so I would be interested in trying the dry coat when available. Heck I still haven't tried any of the extreme catalysts.

[btroj]

A dry powder mixed with acetone would be easier. The liquids are pretty easy to measure, that is for sure. Biggest advantage is no worry over settling of a powder like there is with color.

Gateway, please keep us in the loop on how it works.

[Gateway Bullets]

Yes I will.... As soon as I get out of my tree stand! Lol

But it will be much easier to mix as the only thing needed is the acetone. Plus, supply will be easier to obtain due to classification if material. I will not have the 3-4 month wait time for shipping and hazmat charges!

[btroj]

Reduced shipping charges for you can only benefit those of us who buy the stuff.

[Love Life]

I like reduced charges. At this rate though I will be poor if I bought all the powder and primers needed to shoot the amount of bullets I can coat with the 3 part liquid mix.

[btroj]

You still need to buy that stuff? Heck, I have it on hand!

[Love Life]

I have plenty on hand, but it's a whole bunch of bullets!! Just loaded up another 500 38 specials. 5.0 gr unique under a 358429.

I am now back to down to minute of jack rabbit face with my S&W model 28 at 25 yds. The gun is so much easier to clean now. I love this stuff.

[btroj]

23,000 is a bunch? Wuss

I have a feeling I will run out of coating long before I get that many loaded or shot. I can see where a guy could have 10,000 coated and sized sitting around.

[Ausglock]

What are you blokes paying for primers?
Small pistol here are about $55 per 1000
Large pistol are $65 per 1000

[Love Life]

Are you saying that I need to cast 61 pounds of 9mm? I already have 20 lbs of 9mm cast, lubed with speed green, and gas checked that I need to have the Mrs. shoot up before I can begin loading the 20 lbs of cast, coated, and sized 9mm bullets sitting in the ammo can. That is on top of the ammo can full of already loaded 9mm I keep on hand for when she and her girlfriends go shooting. A couple ladies, a couple Glock 17 pistols, and 9mm disappears fast!!

[Love Life]

I've seen them around here from $37 per 1,000 to $50 per 1,000.

[btroj]

I bought 25 K Tula primers From Powder Valley last summer for around 25 per k.

Saw some yesterday locally for 35 per K.

LL, I know how fast 9 mm can go. My daughter and I went thru 400 rounds of 45 and 38 in a few hours without any problem. Those dang handguns eat lead and primers quick. I just had to razz you a bit. That coating kit does do a heap of bullets. Make per bullet cost pretty low.

I just wish I had bought more SPP, I only got 5 K and I didn't have a 9 mm at that time. I suppose that means I need to shoot more 45?

[Love Life]

Yep. Shoot more 45. I have more LPP than SPP so I shoot more. However, it depletes lead faster so I don't think I'm winning...

[btroj]

I get more lead from the berm than I shoot so I don't suppose I should complain about higher lead cost. I gathered almost 1400 pounds of spent bullets this year so I think I am well ahead.

[Love Life]

I need to hit the berms, but I have been procrastinating. Smelting ranks up there with case trimming on my list of stuff I hate to do. It's easier, and almost cheaper, to buy lead out of the S&S for 1.00 per lb.

[btroj]

I don't mind smelting. Far better than trimming cases!
I can do a couple 5 gal buckets in an afternoon and end up with around 300 pounds of ingots. I have almost 4 buckets still to smelt and have over 1000 pounds in ingots already.

I have more lead than coating.

[HI-TEK]

Yes I will.... As soon as I get out of my tree stand! Lol

But it will be much easier to mix as the only thing needed is the acetone. Plus, supply will be easier to obtain due to classification if material. I will not have the 3-4 month wait time for shipping and hazmat charges!

How was the Bambi hunt?
Any fresh meat?
I thought that you did not have time for relaxing as you were making coated projectiles...lol.

[btroj]

I know!

Here we are wanting data on this new coating and he is sitting in a tree!

[dsa]

The dry coating sounds like it will be the hot ticket. I am looking forward to it becoming available here in the states.

[Gateway Bullets]

How was the Bambi hunt?
Any fresh meat?
I thought that you did not have time for relaxing as you were making coated projectiles...lol.

Hunting was TERRIBLE!!!! So dog gone windy it wasn't even funny! Only thing I saw was one red squirrel. But I have until next week Tuesday to hunt. Might just slip out into the backyard to hunt a little here and there! Lol

[prickett]

What are you blokes paying for primers?
Small pistol here are about $55 per 1000
Large pistol are $65 per 1000

$27/1000 at my gun club.

[gunoil]

midway usa: 5000 to the door/$166.00. Iam running in my new super 1050.

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k511/putt2012/null_zpsba91e1c9.jpg

[Ausglock]

That is cheap primers...

[HI-TEK]

Hunting was TERRIBLE!!!! So dog gone windy it wasn't even funny! Only thing I saw was one red squirrel. But I have until next week Tuesday to hunt. Might just slip out into the backyard to hunt a little here and there! Lol


I hope you are hunting with a well coated projectile using the HT? lol.

[Gremlin460]

Heartbreaking to see.
87838

[Ausglock]

Grem... What's the story?

[Gremlin460]

Grem... What's the story?

Because it is very easy to coat large amounts quickly, when you do something dumb like I seem to have, you also can screw up a lot very quickly LOL.
I coated thousands (litterally) once, then sized them all , then during the second coating, the issues I was having came to light.
See the samples I sent you. Therfore I have 8 4litre icecream containers full of once coated and size boolits to remelt and start again with.
The ones in the picture above is the 4th pot load , just before they melt.

[btroj]

Any odors or anything when they melt?

[kweidner]

Any odors or anything when they melt?

Yep melt em outside. Smells like burnt plastic...Been there done that!

[Love Life]

Melt them outside as said above. Also, ensure you stir very well. The coating acts alot like jackets when smelting. The should rise to the top, but a good stir is required to get them all to come up.

[Moonman]

Breville "SMART OVEN" is UNBOXED AND RUNNING it's programmed first cycle.

When it completes I plan to set it at 375 degrees F and check

programmed temp against two thermometers for my records book.

Working on some Drying/Baking trays from EXPANDED ALUMINUM today also.

Sometime this week I hope to have my first COATED PROJECTILES finished.

We'll see how the learning experience goes.

I plan on following AUSGLOCK'S format from page 19 of this thread.

[Moonman]

Breville "SMART OVEN" is UNBOXED AND RUNNING it's programmed first cycle.

When it completes I plan to set it at 375 degrees F and check

programmed temp against two thermometers for my records book.

Working on some Drying/Baking trays from EXPANDED ALUMINUM today also.

Sometime this week I hope to have my first COATED PROJECTILES finished

We'll see how the learning experience goes.

I plan on following AUSGLOCK'S format from page 19 of this thread.

****UPDATE****

Breville SMART OVEN set at 380 degrees F

Regular INSIDE the OVEN THERMOMETER reads about 380F

Electronic Thermometer (Bar-B-Que Probe unit) READS 378 DEGREES F

N.O.E. Electronic Thermometer (Probe) that came with one of his BULLET MOLDS

reads 368 degrees F.

380 degrees F on Breville oven setting looks like a good starting point.

[Gremlin460]

Any odors or anything when they melt?

A little, not as much as I thought they would be. No smoke though.

[HI-TEK]

Trev





Here are some pics of the product to wet your whistle!

GUYS, DO NOT BOTHER HI-TEK ABOUT THIS PRODUCT PLEASE. IT IS STILL MONTHS BEFORE ITS READY HERE IN THE STATES. TO BE FAIR TO HI TEK, HE DOESNT NEED A MILLION EMAILS ASKING ABOUT IT.

8775487753

To all members,
Please be advised, that as per the above advice by Gateway Bullets, it is confirmed, that the powdered system is still under development, and is not available commercially.
Samples as displayed on this blog were supplied, specifically to have tested in many and varied applications to determine suitability.
It will be many months until commercial materials will be available.
I thank all for the interest in the products, and I promise to make any commercial releases public as things develop.
HI-TEK

[Moonman]

HI-TEK/Ausglock,

Made my FIRST HI-TEK coated BOOLITS today.

I choose 45ACP 230 grain RN to coat.

I followed Ausglocks directions from page 19 of this thread.

I did half of them in DARK GREEN and half in GOLD.

Both sets were done with REGULAR CATALYST, I do have the EXTREME but

have not used it as of yet.

Both sets WITHSTOOD THE ACETONE WIPE TEST and the SMASH TEST A-OK.

All were baked in a Breville BVO800XL "SMART CONVECTION OVEN" set at 380F (193C) for 10 minutes.

Boolits were PRE-HEATED A LITTLE WITH A HAIR DRYER before placing them into the oven to bake.

Colors were baked in separate BATCHES (70 in each), I could have done more per batch if needed.

I mixed 5-1-7 in a Plastic "COKE" BOTTLE, (1 1/4 TEASPOONS COLOR, 1/4 TEASPOON CATALYST,

1 3/4 TEASPOONS OF ACETONE.

USED 3/4 TEASPOON OF MIXTURE TO COAT each coat of the BATCH of 70 (45 ACP) 230 grain PILLS.

It seemed to do well, coating the Boolits and NONE left over POOLING INSIDE THE MIXING BOWL.

The final product with 2 coats looks slightly better TO ME with the Gold colored ones.

I hope to have some sized and loaded for testing at an indoor range this weekend.

Special Thanks to Donnie at BAYOU BULLETS for fast service on my order (1/2 order of each color)

plus an added can of EXTREME CATALYST too.

Keep up THE GOOD WORK MATES!

[Ausglock]

Good stuff, Moonman. Any photos of your first batch?

[Moonman]

Ausglock,

Sorry No Camera or Know How To if I did have one.

For a First Attempt they sure look good to me,

THANKS TO YOUR DIRECTIONS.

[Ausglock]

No worries, mate.

[HI-TEK]

HI-TEK/Ausglock,

Made my FIRST HI-TEK coated BOOLITS today.

I choose 45ACP 230 grain RN to coat.

I followed Ausglocks directions from page 19 of this thread.

I did half of them in DARK GREEN and half in GOLD.

Both sets were done with REGULAR CATALYST, I do have the EXTREME but

have not used it as of yet.

Both sets WITHSTOOD THE ACETONE WIPE TEST and the SMASH TEST A-OK.

All were baked in a Breville BVO800XL "SMART CONVECTION OVEN" set at 380F (193C) for 10 minutes.

Boolits were PRE-HEATED A LITTLE WITH A HAIR DRYER before placing them into the oven to bake.

Colors were baked in separate BATCHES (70 in each), I could have done more per batch if needed.

I mixed 5-1-7 in a Plastic "COKE" BOTTLE, (1 1/4 TEASPOONS COLOR, 1/4 TEASPOON CATALYST,

1 3/4 TEASPOONS OF ACETONE.

USED 3/4 TEASPOON OF MIXTURE TO COAT each coat of the BATCH of 70 (45 ACP) 230 grain PILLS.

It seemed to do well, coating the Boolits and NONE left over POOLING INSIDE THE MIXING BOWL.

The final product with 2 coats looks slightly better TO ME with the Gold colored ones.

I hope to have some sized and loaded for testing at an indoor range this weekend.

Special Thanks to Donnie at BAYOU BULLETS for fast service on my order (1/2 order of each color)

plus an added can of EXTREME CATALYST too.

Keep up THE GOOD WORK MATES!


Moonman,
Thanks much for your input.
I am glad that things worked out for you.
We all would appreciate your shooting results when completed.
Thank you much for trying and using the coatings.
HI-TEK

[Gremlin460]

Sat on the patio most of the day waiting for startack express to arrive.. nope not today, so spent the evening casting more stock to coat.

[HI-TEK]

Sat on the patio most of the day waiting for startack express to arrive.. nope not today, so spent the evening casting more stock to coat.

I am most confused?????
What were you expecting?
I have had no contact about you requiring any thing from me?

[Ausglock]

grem. have you contacted Hitek?????

[Gremlin460]

I just PM'ed him Trev.

[220]

****UPDATE****

Breville SMART OVEN set at 380 degrees F

Regular INSIDE the OVEN THERMOMETER reads about 380F

Electronic Thermometer (Bar-B-Que Probe unit) READS 378 DEGREES F

N.O.E. Electronic Thermometer (Probe) that came with one of his BULLET MOLDS

reads 368 degrees F.

380 degrees F on Breville oven setting looks like a good starting point.

Thanks moonman for the update, I have been considering the breville smart oven to start coating with, nice to know it does what it claims.
Did you notice any hotspots in the oven?
In a lot of the baking pics people have posted there seems to be a noticeable difference in the coated projectiles due to uneven heat. I know with my regular fan forced kitchen oven you notice the difference went cooking fries etc. The smart oven with 5 heating elements and fan should eliminate them.

Transferred some funds to Joe last night so should have my supplies next week. Might be a little while before I start coating, need to have a couple of good casting sessions. I'm waiting for a few things to arrive to build my temp controller before my next session also need to get my mould handles back from a few blokes I've lent them to. Upgraded to 6 cav from 2 cav in a few lee moulds, sold the 2 cav and no mould handles in the shed. :lol:

Coming up to summer holidays here in Aus so my son will be home from school, wont take any effort to get him involved in casting, loading, coating, shooting and testing. Plenty to try it in as I cast from 22-45cal and load everything from ISSF (bullseye pistol to hunting rifle loads)
Will use him for testing the rifle loads, I consider myself a reasonable shot. I can shoot 1/2moa groups with a few of my more accurate rifles easy enough of the bench but he is already outshooting me of the bench. Finished 2nd in his first comp earlier this year using one of my varmint rifles against far more specialised equipment and last varminting session pulled of a 668y shot on a rabbit. Bit of luck involved in that shot but he takes the heads of them regularly enough out to 400y to know it wasn't just luck.

[Sulla]

What a great read and what a journey!

Have been lurking here for a while!

Many thanks to Hi Tek, Ausglock, Gunoil, Gateway, Leadman and all the others who have shared their knowledge.

Place my first order with Joe the other day and now looking to the next part of the journey!

Many thanks for this magnificent thread!

Another one from OZ!

SULLA
====

PS Leadman, I understand the challenges you face. Stay well!

[kweidner]

Thanks moonman for the update, I have been considering the breville smart oven to start coating with, nice to know it does what it claims.
Did you notice any hotspots in the oven?
In a lot of the baking pics people have posted there seems to be a noticeable difference in the coated projectiles due to uneven heat. I know with my regular fan forced kitchen oven you notice the difference went cooking fries etc. The smart oven with 5 heating elements and fan should eliminate them.

Transferred some funds to Joe last night so should have my supplies next week. Might be a little while before I start coating, need to have a couple of good casting sessions. I'm waiting for a few things to arrive to build my temp controller before my next session also need to get my mould handles back from a few blokes I've lent them to. Upgraded to 6 cav from 2 cav in a few lee moulds, sold the 2 cav and no mould handles in the shed. :lol:

Coming up to summer holidays here in Aus so my son will be home from school, wont take any effort to get him involved in casting, loading, coating, shooting and testing. Plenty to try it in as I cast from 22-45cal and load everything from ISSF (bullseye pistol to hunting rifle loads)
Will use him for testing the rifle loads, I consider myself a reasonable shot. I can shoot 1/2moa groups with a few of my more accurate rifles easy enough of the bench but he is already outshooting me of the bench. Finished 2nd in his first comp earlier this year using one of my varmint rifles against far more specialised equipment and last varminting session pulled of a 668y shot on a rabbit. Bit of luck involved in that shot but he takes the heads of them regularly enough out to 400y to know it wasn't just luck.

The breville is the way to go. No hotspots in mine. reliable and consistent. The way the elements work like dimmers, you have no cycling or cool down period associated with other small ovens. It doesn't overshoot the temp to maintain. Put the alloy in and it steadily climbs to desired temp plus or minus three degrees. In my other ovens that was not the case and in my opinion and Joe's a large part of my problem. Worth the money just to save the headache. Many have had success with the other ovens but most who have done a ton of it seem to be retrofitting to a PID i.e. Ausglock and others... Leadman too IIRC. I have saved my other two ovens and will retrofit those eventually. Right now I am just trying to catch up on stock for the next gunshow.

[220]

Thanks kweidner your post has convinced me 100% to go with the breville.
Seems like it should eliminate one of the variables, following this thread from the start it seems most problems are related to temp and time.

Next job is to see what price the local bloke can sell me a breville for.

Looks like I will have another mould to play with over summer, wife has ordered a 360 180 RG4 from NOE as a Christmas present. :grin:

[gunoil]

hi-tek-500 mold lube release on my NOE mold. Running RCBS pro-melt furnace. The HT-500 is really a great difference and not old brown burnt on stuff we use to use. Its white stuff. I love it.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OUoggFh6ras

GLAD YOUR HERE TO HELP SULLA!

I started this thread so i could listen/read from pros and learn. And iam learning. I put pics and videos up for new people like me. Pictures worth a thousand words. Or "monkey see monkey doo". hehehe

[popper]

hi-tek-500 mold lube release is that stuff conductive like LLA?

[Ausglock]

Jesus, Gunslick. Were you going slow for the camera or is that your normal casting speed???:kidding:

Popper. What do you mean by "Conductive" It is a slippery dry film that is slicker than goose schit.

Is LLA Lee Liquid Alox? I have never used the wombat snot. when I buy a Lee sizer die, the bottle of Wombat snot gets given away.

Sulla. Good to have you here, Mate.

[Gateway Bullets]

What a great read and what a journey!

Have been lurking here for a while!

Many thanks to Hi Tek, Ausglock, Gunoil, Gateway, Leadman and all the others who have shared their knowledge.

Place my first order with Joe the other day and now looking to the next part of the journey!

Many thanks for this magnificent thread!

Another one from OZ!

SULLA
====

PS Leadman, I understand the challenges you face. Stay well!

But at least your "journey" will be 3-4 months faster than ours! That boat ride from downunder to the states is a loooooooooooooong one!

[HI-TEK]

What a great read and what a journey!

Have been lurking here for a while!

Many thanks to Hi Tek, Ausglock, Gunoil, Gateway, Leadman and all the others who have shared their knowledge.

Place my first order with Joe the other day and now looking to the next part of the journey!

Many thanks for this magnificent thread!

Another one from OZ!

SULLA
====

PS Leadman, I understand the challenges you face. Stay well!


Thanks for your kind comments.
I found many that spend a lot of time doing homework, and then share their experiences..
Great co-operation.
Thanks all.
HI-TEK

[HI-TEK]

But at least your "journey" will be 3-4 months faster than ours! That boat ride from downunder to the states is a loooooooooooooong one!

We do have to send the boat uphill to you guys,
and the boat, fully loaded up, it is a battle to get it there. lol lol

[popper]

What do you mean by "Conductive" I use Lee alox as a coating for conductivity when ES spraying but it stinks when cooked. If H-T release is electrically conductive it wouldn't stink up my oven so much. use an ohm meter in a small puddle, if < 50 ohms, it's conductive. I use 2 cycle oil for my sprue lube but it's not conductive.

[HI-TEK]

What do you mean by "Conductive" I use Lee alox as a coating for conductivity when ES spraying but it stinks when cooked. If H-T release is electrically conductive it wouldn't stink up my oven so much. use an ohm meter in a small puddle, if < 50 ohms, it's conductive. I use 2 cycle oil for my sprue lube but it's not conductive.

Popper.
I am thinking from your description that you are using the Alox as heat sink to measure temperature.
Is that right?
The Hi-Tek 500 plus, is a dry film.
It does not conduct heat, and is very suitable as sprew cutter lube and also as release agent for the molten Lead.
It is also an extreme dry film lubricant, so it can be used to dry lubricate surfaces to prevent or at least reduce wear.
After it is dry, it has no odour , and is stable yo a 1000 C in ovens.
Once the Hi-Tek 500 is applied to surfaces it becomes an extremely slibk surface which will not "stink" and will not transfer nor interfere with casting and coating thereafter.

[gunoil]

well yea ausglock lam a big time instructional film producer now!

Ausglock, u wanta see fast? l'll show u fast, well lil' sample! Stand back a lil' so the blue flame want get ya. I made this for you. Alrite, l'll make ya a real speed one later. Iam bizzy, this is a big time outfit. uh! hehehe

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4mObPgCI6JY&desktop_uri=%2Fwatch%3Fv%3D4mObPgCI6JY



You can check out all off pushyhog vids on my channel.

[Ausglock]

that 1050 sure is a sweet press. Too many $$$ for me. I'll stick with the 550.

I paid a visit to HI-TEK Joe's production facility yesterday.
The security staff met me at the gate and gave me the once over.
I must say. I have never seen such an array of equipment in my life. There were machines there That I have never seen.

Everything was in a clean room. White cover-alls with booties and masks. the whole 9 yards. I thought I was walking into a NASA lab.
The Staff were friendly and came out of their enclosure to say G'day and have a chat.

I managed to leave with a few samples to try.
Thanks for the $2 tour, Joe.

[Gremlin460]

:drinks: Sounds like you got a tour of the burbon brewing side of his operation, that's why the "samples" were in litre glass bottles :P

[HI-TEK]

:drinks: Sounds like you got a tour of the burbon brewing side of his operation, that's why the "samples" were in litre glass bottles :P

Despite the security, (who surrounded him), he managed to escape with a new green slime sample that was being developed.
Goes to show, not enough security...lol lol.

[Ausglock]

The new Green is very nice. Light Green and I'm firing them tomorrow.

[Gateway Bullets]

well yea ausglock lam a big time instructional film producer now!

Ausglock, u wanta see fast? l'll show u fast, well lil' sample! Stand back a lil' so the blue flame want get ya. I made this for you. Alrite, l'll make ya a real speed one later. Iam bizzy, this is a big time outfit. uh! hehehe

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4mObPgCI6JY&desktop_uri=%2Fwatch%3Fv%3D4mObPgCI6JY



You can check out all off pushyhog vids on my channel.

Gunoil, I'm jealous! I may have to break down and buy a 1050 and retire my 550. When i get in trouble from the wife, I'm going to blame it on you! :grin:

Hi-Tek, you get that smoker and the recipe down pat for that summer sausage, you can include it in your orders. Buy a stick for $9.99 and get a 5 liter of coating for free!

[gunoil]

yea, gateway just go on and cheat and spend the money. Iam having a blast. I have mrbulletfeeder drop die and the swager upper push rod turned down so it just swages primer pocket, cause i run a mrbullet powder hopper step expander instead of stock bell one that comes with it. The grease they use smells like midland or pecos texas on pump day, wish they would change that.

[Gateway Bullets]

yea, gateway just go on and cheat and spend the money. Iam having a blast. I have mrbulletfeeder drop die and the swager upper push rod turned down so it just swages primer pocket, cause i run a mrbullet powder hopper step expander instead of stock bell one that comes with it. The grease they use smells like midland or pecos texas on pump day, wish they would change that.

Lol I should.... But I gotta keep momma happy! If momma is happy, then my life is easy peasy!!!!

[HI-TEK]

[/Quote]The grease they use smells like midland or pecos texas on pump day, wish they would change that.[/QUOTE]

Gunoil,
Have you any information on the grease. name, specification etc etc.
What is the grease lubricating?
I may be able to help with getting something that will work, and not be so unpleasant... lol lol.
May be you can send me a PM on it.

[gunoil]

Hi-Tek: I was trucking to california from 02' til 4 years ago. 10 car parking lot twice a month. Sometimes that deep crud oil smell could knock your socks off. I dont know why dillon uses it, its not as bad as when it came out of box. I've wiped most off and put some other oil on. Man l love that 1050 press, hell, l love my loadmasters too. My cast are better now with your hi-tek 500 and my new RCBS pro-melt furnace. I figured after a year or so i needed new furnace and preventive maintenance too. Sold lee pot on ebay.

Dont know what they use it for.(the oil).

I almost quit casting one time, but kept reading this forum and lil' tid-bits here and their i got it. Good quality equipment is the way to go. period

[HI-TEK]

Hi-Tek: I was trucking to california from 02' til 4 years ago. Sometimes that deep crud oil smell could knock your socks off. I dont know why dillon uses it, its not as bad as when it came out of box. I've wiped most off and put some other oil on. Man l love that 1050 press, hell, l love my loadmasters too. My cast are better now with your hi-tek 500 and my new RCBS pro-melt furnace. I figured after a year or so i needed new furnace and preventive maintenance too. Sold lee pot on ebay.

Glad that you had found useful materials.
Happy that all is now well.

[Gremlin460]

This Thread needs more Pictures!!!...

[jcobb651]

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/11/26/edyda6es.jpg

4.8 grains Titegroup under a Lee 200 grain RNFP....HT coated 3 times and 5 shots each at 3, 5, 7, 10, 15, 20, and 25 yards. Pistol was a new Springfield loaded parkerized.

[Ausglock]

Nice..
I got my new Accurate Molds 357-168Z in the mail yesterday.

Cast a 1000 last night. sweet mold to use. the bullets are getting the new light green coating applied tonight.
Thanks to Tom @ Accurate Molds. Great work and excellent quality.

[Gremlin460]

Nice..
I got my new Accurate Molds 357-168Z in the mail yesterday.

Cast a 1000 last night. sweet mold to use. the bullets are getting the new light green coating applied tonight.
Thanks to Tom @ Accurate Molds. Great work and excellent quality.

Did you order it without a lube grove??

[Gremlin460]

OK someone moved the thread, thought I was going nuts (even more) for a moment.

[Ausglock]

Yep. designed without the groove.

[220]

My coatings should be here this week, ended up splashing out on a breville smart oven. Found the cheapest price I could online and then went and visited my local electrical goods retailer and asked if they could match the price. Didn't have one in stock but will have it in before the end of the week at a matching price. :)

[Ausglock]

New Accurate Molds 357-168Z
These are for loading 357Sig in 1911/2011 for IPSC Std Div Major power factor loads.

Compared to the Lee 125gr RN
88646

Coated with HI-TEK Kryptonite Green
88645

Close-up before sizing
88647

[jcobb651]

Anyone ever test to see if there is a difference between a frosted coated boolit and a non-frosted?

[HI-TEK]

Anyone ever test to see if there is a difference between a frosted coated boolit and a non-frosted?

Hi,
Just wanted to seek clarification as to what you refer to as "frosted" or "Non-frosted"?
Also, what type of coatings are you referring to?
Generally any coating when sized becomes smooth and shiny, (or at least that is what should happen)

[Ausglock]

frosted or non-frosted makes no difference to quality of the coating or the velocity. As Hitek stated, the sizing process smoothes out the surface and uniforms every bullet.

[jcobb651]

Frosted: when your mold gets too hot and the cast boolits have a "frosted" appearance. Someone had speculated that a frosted bullet may promote adhesion of the HT better than a shiny one due to the shiny one being a smoother surface. I'm using the gold and have had no issues but was just curious if there was a difference in accuracy between frosted and non. Towards the end of my last casting session I noticed most of the ones I was dropping were too hot and were frosted. I separated those out to test for myself but was just wanting to see if anyone had already done any testing.

[gunoil]

hell no! they shoot good.

Dang nice lookin bullets/boolits trevor.

[Ausglock]

Yeah. Tom at Accurate Molds does very good work.

[leadman]

All of my boolits are frosted on purpose. I find fill out is better and the weight more consistent. I have no problems with accuracy at all with the frosted boolits.
Several of my rifles shoot moa or less.

[Gateway Bullets]

All of my boolits are frosted on purpose. I find fill out is better and the weight more consistent. I have no problems with accuracy at all with the frosted boolits.
Several of my rifles shoot moa or less.

I love frosted boolets! The chocolate coated ones seem to shoot better than the vanilla! lol lol lol

[gunoil]

Got my new "spray" can of hi-tek-500 mold lube. I love it. Iam selling that other **** on ebay.

So trevor, u custom ordered that mold/bullet? It turned out great. The one i did with no lube groove shoots great. Those would drop fine with a mrbulletfeeder drop die.

[Ausglock]

Yep. Asked Tom to modify an existing design and it turned out great. Looking at 2 other designs. A 138gr RN and a 150gr RN.

[Balta]

I am also using a no lube grove design bullet in 9 mm made by Mihec...i am using for PC didnt have chance to try HiTek...There ar easy to cast and easy to work with..
8883888839

[Gremlin460]

Yep. Asked Tom to modify an existing design and it turned out great. Looking at 2 other designs. A 138gr RN and a 150gr RN.

If you take the lube grooves out of a Lee 6 cav 125gn mold , and polish it to 358/359 , then using COWW they drop just under 130gn RN, if that saves you a special mold.

[jmorris]

I posted this in a different forum a while back but this was my first experience with the coating.

After going through the powder coating process and giving copper plating a try, after USPS lost the first shipment, I finally received a new batch of the Bayou bullet coating from Donnie, that he FedExed to me.

What you get is a two part mix and you add acetone, tumble and bake.

I just ran a small batch of 150, 230 grain 45's for the first run.

I mixed 5ml of the color, 5 ml of acetone and 1 ml of the catalyst. Adding about 1 tea spoon to the tumbling bullets and baking at 365 for 10 min. Let them cool and re tumbled them with another tea spoon of the mix and baking for another 10 min.

The tumbler I built is a paint bucket I found at home depot that is sort of D shaped, figured this would work for agitation, and uses disposable liners that are cheap so I don't have to worry about clean up.

I smashed the one at the center of the photo to see how well it stuck to the bullet and there were no signs of separation. Next test is to load them up and see about smoke and leading.



http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o213/jmorrismetal/reloading/Coating/IMG_20130419_154419_724_zps53468cb7.jpg

http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o213/jmorrismetal/reloading/Coating/IMG_20130419_134643_355_zps97809a85.jpg

http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o213/jmorrismetal/reloading/Coating/IMG_20130419_140508_667_zps4e991a44.jpg

http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o213/jmorrismetal/reloading/Coating/IMG_20130419_140605_747_zps93cee114.jpg

http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o213/jmorrismetal/reloading/Coating/IMG_20130419_152838_659_zps42359de6.jpg

http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o213/jmorrismetal/reloading/Coating/IMG_20130419_153715_752_zps29150319.jpg

[Moonman]

jmorris,

Nice photos.

I TWICE COATED a few 230 grain 45 bullets last weekend.

Ran them through a sizer.

Shot 12-15 INDOORS, Didn't see much smoke, No leading

all in a 5" "GUNSITE" COLT 1911.

I'm going to try to get a bunch coated and loaded to shoot this Sunday.

So far, so good for me, I like the deal.

I'm sure YOUR tests will far more complex than mine.

Please keep us posted.

[Ausglock]

jmorris.
Nice.

maybe use less mix? It seems to be a bit thick. Or add another 30 bullets to the teaspoon of coating when tumbling.
Good job.
Love your tumbler.
Lathe in the background? Everyone should have a Lathe, Mill and a Mig.

[Moonman]

jmorris,

I used the Trevor Recommended mix of

5 COLOR, 1 CATALYST, AND 7 (SEVEN) ACETONE

For my GOLD COLOR. 230 GRAIN 45 CALIBER RN were coated.

Coat/Bake for 10 minutes (380F) Cool - - - - -- Coat/Bake 10 minutes/Cool.

I use a BREVILLE Smart Convection Oven.

Size them and Load them.

I have some 38 SPECIAL FULL WADCUTTERS that I may try

Coating/Baking twice and LOADING WITHOUT SIZING.

A 38 Special that has .359 cylinder bores.

I'm using lead alloy about 8/9 Brinell. (Cabine Tree Tester)

[hpdrifter]

jmorris.
Nice.

maybe use less mix? It seems to be a bit thick. Or add another 30 bullets to the teaspoon of coating when tumbling.
Good job.
Love your tumbler.
Lathe in the background? Everyone should have a Lathe, Mill and a Mig.

Really would like to add a TIG to that list.

[Ausglock]

Yeah. I have just added a TIG, plasma cutter and a press brake. Now I need an extension in my shed. It is 21' x 55' x 12' high and still too small.

[HI-TEK]

I posted this in a different forum a while back but this was my first experience with the coating.

After going through the powder coating process and giving copper plating a try, after USPS lost the first shipment, I finally received a new batch of the Bayou bullet coating from Donnie, that he FedExed to me.

What you get is a two part mix and you add acetone, tumble and bake.

I just ran a small batch of 150, 230 grain 45's for the first run.

I mixed 5ml of the color, 5 ml of acetone and 1 ml of the catalyst. Adding about 1 tea spoon to the tumbling bullets and baking at 365 for 10 min. Let them cool and re tumbled them with another tea spoon of the mix and baking for another 10 min.

The tumbler I built is a paint bucket I found at home depot that is sort of D shaped, figured this would work for agitation, and uses disposable liners that are cheap so I don't have to worry about clean up.

I smashed the one at the center of the photo to see how well it stuck to the bullet and there were no signs of separation. Next test is to load them up and see about smoke and leading.



http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o213/jmorrismetal/reloading/Coating/IMG_20130419_154419_724_zps53468cb7.jpg

http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o213/jmorrismetal/reloading/Coating/IMG_20130419_134643_355_zps97809a85.jpg

http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o213/jmorrismetal/reloading/Coating/IMG_20130419_140508_667_zps4e991a44.jpg

http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o213/jmorrismetal/reloading/Coating/IMG_20130419_140605_747_zps93cee114.jpg

http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o213/jmorrismetal/reloading/Coating/IMG_20130419_152838_659_zps42359de6.jpg

http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o213/jmorrismetal/reloading/Coating/IMG_20130419_153715_752_zps29150319.jpg

Excellent set up and results.
You really went the whole way to ensure good results as you have obtained.
Now, you have to start producing commercial volumes and hobby will become rewarding.

I have had many tell me, that they enjoy coating so much, that they can hardly wait to get home from work and start making.
It seems that the hobby becomes addictive, as it seems, that all spare time becomes production time.
Would be interested in how shooting them has turned out.
Looking forward to your posts.

[Ausglock]

OK... this is for the doubters out there that the HI-TEK coating is too delicate and will scratch off.

Tonight I loaded some 357Sig rounds to test the new 168gr bullets from the Accurate Mold. These bullets were coated with 2 coats of the Kryptonite Green. My 357Sig rounds get a very heavy crimp to prevent bullet setback.
89038

I wanted to see if this heavy crimp would damage the coating. So I used the Kinetics bullet pulling hammer to pull a few.

89039

As you can see. The crimping has placed a groove in the bullets, but the coating is fine. No scratching or ripping of the coating in any way.

Firing a few 100 of these tomorrow in this.
89040

[kweidner]

89074cast up 20# of 9mm 135 gr, 20# of 40 180 gr and 20# of 200 gr 45swc today. Coating them gold tomorrow. I figure about 2500 boolits cast today. Will coat and size tomorrow and then load this week. Was a busy day. Time to smelt some more ingots!

[Ausglock]

It sure doesn't take long to cast a few 1000.
I am running 3 6 cavity molds at once.
Cast from a Lee 20lb pot with the Lee 10lb pot mounted over the top to pre-melt ingots and then use this to top up the 20lb pot.
I can then cast continuesly with no stopping.
You sure go through a lot of ingots this way.....

[leadman]

I noticed that the thermostats in 2 of my ovens were varying quite a bit after an hour or so of baking. These are the resistance type like the Lee pots and hot plates use. So I built 2 more PID controllers and bypassed the thermostats. A trial run of each oven went well so the coating of about 4,000 boolits is scheduled for tomorrow.

[Magana559]

Just tried two different batches and the first came out great.
The second was really clumpy and had less color.
I'm using 5 parts color one part harder and 5 parts acetone.
Using red copper if that makes any difference.

Is this normal or not?

[HI-TEK]

Just tried two different batches and the first came out great.
The second was really clumpy and had less color.
I'm using 5 parts color one part harder and 5 parts acetone.
Using red copper if that makes any difference.

Is this normal or not?

Hi Magana559.
Generally, you should be using 5 1 7 mix. 5 parts coating one part catalyst and 7 parts Acetone.
With Red copper, it is better to place a couple of 45's into container, and shake well before decanting, as the material really settles well and requires good mixing.
"Clumping" can be caused by numerous reasons, and I need more detailed advice of your coating process to try an diagnose what is happening.
Photo of your described problem may also help.
If it helps, please send me a PM so I can concentrate on diagnosing things.
One area that is common, is that when mixing coatings with catalyst and solvent, there can be a curdling type effect of suspension which then settles quickly.
Simply mix this mixture occasionally, and, as the particles will "recondition" in mixture, the curdled particles will re-separate back into correct suspension by aging a little while, with occasional mixing.
You can premix your coating mixture, and use the next day, so any "curdling", that initially formed, can sort itself out after the mixing process, and particles become as they were designed as a fine suspension..
Hope this helps...

[Magana559]

I definitely think I'm getting a curdling effect, it definitely happens when I add the catalyst.
Everything is measured by cc units so it can't be a uneven mixture.

I also followed your instructions on using two boolits and shaking for 5 min.

I'll pm you tomorrow as its 2:10 AM here.

[HI-TEK]

I definitely think I'm getting a curdling effect, it definitely happens when I add the catalyst.
Everything is measured by cc units so it can't be a uneven mixture.

I also followed your instructions on using two boolits and shaking for 5 min.

I'll pm you tomorrow as its 2:10 AM here.

Thanks for quick reply. It is 9.30pm here.
The curdling effect, after adding catalyst is normal. Catalyst temporarily alters mixture and after adding, and occasionally mixing, the "aging" reverses agglomeration, and all should be OK.
Some folk, add Catalyst to Acetone first, then adding to coating whilst mixing, reduces the agglomeration somewhat but there is really no damage done to coating mixture aside from temporary coagulation, which sorts itself out with a little time and occasional mixing.
If you simply mix your blend, then occasionally mix, and leave, and return later and do it again, all should be OK for coating, when you see particles become very fine suspension again.

[Ausglock]

I add catalyst first, Then the acetone and lastly the coloured resin,
This prevents the condition you are getting.
It is normal to have this happen, Just shake the schit out of the mixed coating. Let sit for 5 to 10 minutes, then shake it again and coat.

[Moonman]

It's GOOD we keep learning LITTLE TIDBITS of information about the process.

Trevor, Good shooting the 357 Sig today I hope.

Report back Please.

I need to load up a few COATED PILLS this morning myself.

[Love Life]

The coating takes 40 minutes to be "dry" when it is 38 degrees F in the garage. Bake times did not change.

[DrBill33]

Now all that I need to do is to figure out how to totally remove ALOX form 12,000 cast bullets! I found Hi-Tek after i had sized and lubed these!

[RDP]

Leadman,
Please tell us more about the PID you build?
Thanks,
Rich

[popper]

DrBill - I just used gasoline, removed most all of it, even Recluse lube. Easier than boiling.

[prickett]

Now all that I need to do is to figure out how to totally remove ALOX form 12,000 cast bullets! I found Hi-Tek after i had sized and lubed these!

Simple. I just went through the same process. First you throw them in the casting pot, then you turn on the heat :-)

Yeah, I recast all my .45's that I had lubed with alox. Man that alox leaves a mess in your pot!

[Magana559]

Looks like all is well today. Definitely back to normal.

Coated some and put them in the oven. Seems like its blotchy but will work.

[leadman]

For measuring the components I use aluminum kitchen measuring spoons. I measure out the color first, then 3 parts acetone, then 1 part catalyst, then the rest of the acetone. I have no issues with curdling. I use the acetone to clean the spoon with between the color and catalyst.
I'll post some pictures of my PID units I build later. I bought the parts off E-Bay and assembly was not difficult at all. I do think my oldest oven is in need of replacement as the temperature varies even with the PID hooked up. This is a very old toaster oven so I will look for another convection oven.
I did notice today with temperatures in the high 60s that the coating did not dry as well as when it is over 100 degrees. I increased dry time to 20 minutes and also set a couple of the racks on the top of the ovens at the end of the time to help them dry.

[Ausglock]

In winter here in OZ ( about 4 to 8 Deg C coldest) I used the warm hair dryer to help speed up the "drying" time before baking. The coated bullets were just warm to the touch.

[HI-TEK]

For measuring the components I use aluminum kitchen measuring spoons. I measure out the color first, then 3 parts acetone, then 1 part catalyst, then the rest of the acetone. I have no issues with curdling. I use the acetone to clean the spoon with between the color and catalyst.
I'll post some pictures of my PID units I build later. I bought the parts off E-Bay and assembly was not difficult at all. I do think my oldest oven is in need of replacement as the temperature varies even with the PID hooked up. This is a very old toaster oven so I will look for another convection oven.
I did notice today with temperatures in the high 60s that the coating did not dry as well as when it is over 100 degrees. I increased dry time to 20 minutes and also set a couple of the racks on the top of the ovens at the end of the time to help them dry.

I have had some who had problems with drying, especially in cold and damp conditions.
What has been found in the past, if the Acetone supplier, if not storing the drum in air tight containers, and is old stock, the Acetone may have up to 10% water content from absorption of airborne moisture.
Many are not even aware of such detail.
The Water content should not really affect the coatings, aside from the fact that it takes a long time to fully dry, even if it feels dry to the touch.
Moisture is trapped in the coating film, and will not easily dry.
Most obvious symptoms are, that cooked film will contain very fine bubbles, poor adhesion, and when sized, visible fine craters in coating film.
There are no real way of avoiding this sort of problems aside from more drying/warming time of first coated alloys.

[Gremlin460]

The coating arrived yesterday thank you so much Joe.

I will play with it today as its 28+ outside so will be a great day for drying.
I also want to thank you for the additional colour samples, that was both kind and very cruel of you to include them!.
Kind because it was unexpected. Cruel because I keep picking one up to try it, then change my mind and pick a different colour, then start all over again!!.
I know its a easy answer, try them all , the tough decision is which one first.
I even tried picking one with my eyes closed, saying whatever it is, this one first. But then that selection method failed aswell.. *sigh*

I went with the gold today, 50ml/10ml/70ml, Col/cat/acet. So now they are drying out in the sunshine and the oven is on.

Again thank you.

[Ausglock]

Grem. Don't stuff it up this time.......:kidding:

[Gremlin460]

Grem. Don't stuff it up this time.......:kidding:

Dear Mr/Miss AuzClock.

I am havink a problem wiff the coating, every time I trie the swipe test before I bake the coating kumms off.
Also the smash test wurks fine but I have found them hard to size afterwards. Why do I have to smash test them all??

Fanks in advance..
Annonymouse.

PS I coodnt afford a propa sizing die , so I just cut the bit off the barrel off that sticks out the end, off course I filed the edges smooth first!.
I figure at that's the size that I need it maked a good sizing die.

[HI-TEK]

The coating arrived yesterday thank you so much Joe.

I will play with it today as its 28+ outside so will be a great day for drying.
I also want to thank you for the additional colour samples, that was both kind and very cruel of you to include them!.
Kind because it was unexpected. Cruel because I keep picking one up to try it, then change my mind and pick a different colour, then start all over again!!.
I know its a easy answer, try them all , the tough decision is which one first.
I even tried picking one with my eyes closed, saying whatever it is, this one first. But then that selection method failed aswell.. *sigh*

I went with the gold today, 50ml/10ml/70ml, Col/cat/acet. So now they are drying out in the sunshine and the oven is on.

Again thank you.


Soooooo, what is news???
Any success????

[Sulla]

I also want to thank you for the additional colour samples, that was both kind and very cruel of you to include them!.
Kind because it was unexpected. Cruel because I keep picking one up to try it, then change my mind and pick a different colour, then start all over again!!.


Loose lips sink ships!!

Where are my additional colour samples Joe?

Did you forget to include them?

[Ausglock]

No. I have them.

[HI-TEK]

Loose lips sink ships!!

Where are my additional colour samples Joe?

Did you forget to include them?


As Ausglock said..

He sneaked in here when I was not looking, and ran away with secret formulas.
That is all I had available.
He also took the formulation, so I cant produce any more....lol...lol

[Sulla]

Great Trevor!
Please keep them safe for me!
:)

No problemo Joe!

Attempting a bit of jocularity!

[Gremlin460]

Soooooo, what is news???
Any success????

Well first coat was that thin I was not sure I had actually coated it, only the speckle gave it away, after the first bake they turned a lovely gold colour that survived the wipe test.
They also survived sizing once cool. A few had a lead wipe near where the base flashing was.
These have now received a second coat and been in the sun for 2 hours while I was called away to do the work thing.
Oven is now heating to temp for the second run through. Will post pictures of both the end result and the smash test.

[Gremlin460]

This pic was taken while the second coat was drying

89362

This is a sideways picture of the result after a smash test.

89363

Now its off to the gun shop tomorrow for a tin of unique and some CCI 500 primers. On sunday (aus time) I will have the answer re-leading or no leading.


Here are 2 random pictures taken of the test batch.

89364

89366

[Ausglock]

far too much coating used.
They should be shiny, not dull and rough.

[HI-TEK]

far too much coating used.
They should be shiny, not dull and rough.

It is not bad after first try. I always see many over do with use of coatings in early stages.
Sizing will take care of any rough surfaces. As long as coating stays on it should be OK.
I dont mind over use, it means people use more.
I have said many times, always use as little as possible to just barely cover with each coat.
Very thin (dilute) coatings dry faster, and with multiple coats, you end up using less coatings, and product looks great and works great.

[Sulla]

On sunday (aus time) I will have the answer re-leading or no leading.


Anyone who has read this thread already knows the answer!

Look forward to hearing your observatons.

[Gremlin460]

far too much coating used.
They should be shiny, not dull and rough.

Not a problem, next batch underway with 50% less coating application.
Back to the learning curve.

[Magana559]

Going to load some in 45-70 gov, 357 mag at magnum velocities, 9mm luger, 30-06 at increased velocities over cast, and maybe 7.62X39....lots of loading to do tomorrow!

[HI-TEK]

Not a problem, next batch underway with 50% less coating application.
Back to the learning curve.

With your reduction by 50% usage idea, I dont know what quantity you used for these ones.
To try and put things into perspective, the Blue Green, Green and similar coloured coatings, the coverage ranges from 35,000 to 45,000 projectiles, per litre of coating.
The "Metallics" coat around 35,000 to 38,000 per litre, as these are normally used with higher energy applications.
I am aware, that with Dark Green, user/s, can coat nearly 60,000 per litre, and coating functions fine.
You need to calculate volumes of coatings that will be required to coat the amount of projectiles you have available for coating.
You always cast much more than required, and that way. you use up all
pre-mixed coating and none is wasted.
If you have any non coated projectiles left, they can be coated with next batch.
That is simplest way to maximise efficiency of coating use without wastage.

[PodPeople]

I am aware, that with Dark Green, user/s, can coat nearly 60,000 per litre, and coating functions fine.

Is that with one or two coats?

[HI-TEK]

Is that with one or two coats?


From what I have been told, they use two very thin coats.
They also advised, that from their output and coating usages, that they had estimated those sort of figures over a period.
Others use same coating, and they may get a different usage rate.
It really all depends on what finish they are happy with, and if it works, why change it.

[Gremlin460]

It is almost impossible to visualize 30,40,50 or more thousand projectiles.

The major issue is we need to be able to gauge, too little, enough, or too much when we coat. Trevor has managed that, and also other coaters as well.
Due to the fact that most of us are geographically remote from each other, it is not a simple case of "Here let me show you".
Another point that makes it difficult for new coaters, is the actual terminology used to describe the process.
Example.
We are told the temp to use. That's is easy, its a solid constant world wide.
We are also told the ratio, also easy to obtain, 10cc is 10cc no matter where you are.
Time, 10mins, again 10 min is 10 min world wide.

Amount of solution to use, 1litre per 60,000 , whoops!! Fail, not that its wrong, its because that is hard to visualize when looking into a bucket of 150-200 casts and trying to divide what you have into 1 ltr then guesstimate how much of a squirt that would be from your squeeze bottle you are vigorously shaking in your other hand.

So to say I got too much coating on the first try, is a fair statement, that's why I said I shall apply 50% less. The ONLY way I can gauge 50% less, is by halfing the amount I squirted into the bucket, visually.

Also bear in mind, the first time I did this , I coated 5000 casts, and because I got it wrong, firstly by temp, next by mixture, I had 5000 useless, unuseable boolits. Hence the remelt pictures from a few weeks ago.

I think success or failure, all comes down to this one point, learning the correct amount to apply per bucket load. Once I have a visual on how much to squirt, for how long, I am sure my resulting product will work and shoot just fine.

[Gremlin460]

Thinking further on my previous post, I shall now start to try and get "real" world measurements into the coating application.

A handful of cast and a 2 second squirt is just about as un-scientific as you can get.
Now I will start coating by weighing the "handful", and start administering the coating via a large syringe or other measurable device.

If I find the 1/2lb of casts that's 12cc of coating (example figures only), then I can start to produce consistant results.

As a side note, I just took another batch out of the oven and they look much smoother and shinier than the last, once cool, I will test and post results.

Sorry to be long winded, but we have fixed limits for everything, except application, and that's what is tripping me and others when we start.

[HI-TEK]

It is almost impossible to visualize 30,40,50 or more thousand projectiles.

The major issue is we need to be able to gauge, too little, enough, or too much when we coat. Trevor has managed that, and also other coaters as well.
Due to the fact that most of us are geographically remote from each other, it is not a simple case of "Here let me show you".
Another point that makes it difficult for new coaters, is the actual terminology used to describe the process.
Example.
We are told the temp to use. That's is easy, its a solid constant world wide.
We are also told the ratio, also easy to obtain, 10cc is 10cc no matter where you are.
Time, 10mins, again 10 min is 10 min world wide.

Amount of solution to use, 1litre per 60,000 , whoops!! Fail, not that its wrong, its because that is hard to visualize when looking into a bucket of 150-200 casts and trying to divide what you have into 1 ltr then guesstimate how much of a squirt that would be from your squeeze bottle you are vigorously shaking in your other hand.

So to say I got too much coating on the first try, is a fair statement, that's why I said I shall apply 50% less. The ONLY way I can gauge 50% less, is by halfing the amount I squirted into the bucket, visually.

Also bear in mind, the first time I did this , I coated 5000 casts, and because I got it wrong, firstly by temp, next by mixture, I had 5000 useless, unuseable boolits. Hence the remelt pictures from a few weeks ago.

I think success or failure, all comes down to this one point, learning the correct amount to apply per bucket load. Once I have a visual on how much to squirt, for how long, I am sure my resulting product will work and shoot just fine.

Gremlin460,

I agree with majority of what you advise.

I had learned over years, that if you have a well diluted mixture, then adding plus or minus a few mls does not significantly use much more coatings, as product is diluted significantly.
In majority, with diluted coating systems, you are adding more solvent which contains some coating.

If you compare using 5:1:5 ratio, it is about 50% of coating in the mix.
Using this mixture at 10 mls per 1000, you use about 5 mls of coating.

If your mixture is 5:1:10, the coating is about 30% in the mix.
If you then use the same volume of 10 mls of this per 1000, you now use 3 mls of coating, and that is significant saving, (about 40%) to coat the same amount of projectiles.

Therefore, the 5:1:10 mix, should cover a much more with using same coating concentrate, and,
all you are using is more solvent, to extend the coating to cover more surface area.

As you have a more diluted coating mixture with 5:1:10, any small errors with volume become less significant, and when considering the number of batches being coated, any plus or minuses will average usage to reasonable reproducibility.

By using a more concentrated coating system, (less solvent) then small volume changes with coating additions end up with using more coatings, and adds to other problems, such as inadequate or prolong drying times, bubbling of non dried film during bake, poorer finished appearance, harder to size, and most importantly ending up being more costly, due to failures caused, and higher coating use.

Really, any learning curve is a good teacher as to which method will produce best results with system that is adopted.

[Ausglock]

5-1-7 mix. 250 9 mm 125 gr bullets get 7 mls of coating. Easy. No rocket science needed.

[Gremlin460]

5-1-7 mix. 250 9 mm 125 gr bullets get 7 mls of coating. Easy. No rocket science needed.

so is that 3.5mls of coating for the first cook and 3.5mls for the second coat, or is it 14 mls total for 2 coats and 21 mls if you decide to go for a 3rd coat?

[Ausglock]

Per coat. Bloody hell, Grem. You really are a QLDer.........

[PodPeople]

I'd like to know how to determine coating volumes for different size boolits. Is there a linear relationship between boolit weight and surface area? If so, a 200 grain boolit would need twice as much coating as a 100 grain boolit. I would think that boolit shape might be a factor, as well as the number of lube grooves. It's been many decades since I studied solid geometry.

[Gremlin460]

I thought the same PodPeople, but opted for the lesser headache route, if I go for CC or Mls per cast weight I think would be close enough. Using your above example 200gn vs 100gn cast there theoretically would be half as many 200 given a set weight, than 100gn, theoretically leaving the same surface area approximately. The operative word being approximately :)

Trev..
Not from QLD :P
The last batch came out smoother and shiney, passed the wipe and smash test, BUT scratch like hell when I put one in a fired case and pulled it out again.
Possibly too thin a coat now?

[KYCaster]

Geeeezzz.....how difficult do you want to make this?

Lee Precision sells a set of powder dippers with volume in cc's molded right into the handle. .5cc of catalyst, 2.5cc of color and 3.7cc of acetone will coat.....how many boolits?

Don't have Lee dippers? Five 22 LR cases = one 45ACP case. One 22 case full of catalyst, one 45 case full of color, one and a half 45 case full of acetone will coat.....how many boolits?

Please forgive me if this sounds condescending. It ain't rocket surgery. So you waste some boolits and coating....keep good notes and you'll figger it out.

Must be an engineer. [smilie=1:
Jerry

[Ausglock]

OK.. The KISS principal.
My mix is 5-1-7.
My trays will hold 250 9mm 125gr bullets. I use 7mls per coat per tray.
My trays will hold 150 45 230gr bullets. I use 7mls per coat per tray.
My trays hold 175 44 200gr bullets. I use 7mls per coat per tray.
My trays hold 200 358 156gr bullets. I use 7mls per coat per tray.

Does anyone besides me see a pattern here?
Why over think the issue to create problems that are really non-existent?
Cast, coat, load & shoot.... life is good and the coating is easy...

[Gremlin460]

I do I do , nearly all your sentances start with MY!!


post script.
Hope you have a sence of humor , because I have.

No matter what issues I am having I still am not giving up, stubborn old bastard that I am.

[Ausglock]

think of it this way.. if 7mls does 250 9mm bullets, work it out from there.
7 divided by 250 = mls per bullet. 0.028mls per bullet for 9mm 125gr.
0.047mls per 45 bullet
etc etc etc..

[kweidner]

I use 5 lbs of alloy in all applications. Like Ausglock this is 250 135gr 9mm, 200 180gr .40 or 175 200gr 45. I have had good repeatable success with this. I use a tsp measurement from a pharmacist. Each time I go to the pharmacy a pick up a couple more as they give em to me free. My coatings average about 30000 per liter but I use 3 coats. Has anyone had success with the accurate 45-230z. Bout to order that mold and was curious if Ausglock or others has good success with it.

[Ausglock]

I'm going to get a 45-230Z in a few weeks.
I am having great results with the 35-168Z.

[Moonman]

Ausglock,

Your Post #1958 is the kind of INFO we newbies to the coating of Boolits can use and is VERY USEFUL.

7ml of 5-1-7 mix is 1.42 teaspoons to many of us in the US, so a SHORT measure of about 1 1/2 teaspoons

should be fine per coating your STATED number of PILLS or about 5 pounds of alloy.

I'll do that on the next batch, I've been using about TWICE THAT MUCH.

I'LL CUT BACK MY AMOUNT AGAIN.

Keep the GREAT INFO coming Trevor.

[Ausglock]

no worries. Glad to help.
When I coat, I dribble the coating out of the mixed pop top bottle. I don't measure.

But, last night I actually measured how much I dribble.
I got some plastic measuring spoons and "dribbled" a normal dribble into a shot glass and then tipped it into the teaspoon measure.

Guess what??? I am dribbling just over 1 1/2 teaspoons. I tried it 3 times and it was close to the same each time.

Out of my pop top mix bottle my dribble is about 1 second.
So (for me) 1 second = 7mls = 1 1/2 teaspoons.
Woohoo... good to go.

[Moonman]

Trevor,

I just coated 22 1/2 pounds of PILLS.

.45 .452 230 grain RN, .38 .358 110 grain SWC, .38 .358 155 grain SWC, .38 145 grain DEWC.

(4) 5 pound batches, (1) 2 1/2 pound, weighed on a food scale,

1 1/2 Teaspoons of 5/1/7 Acetone Coating (7 1/2 ml), 3/4 tsp for the 2 1/2 pound batch.

Spin and Shake in a Plastic bowl, dump into my trays to dry overnight, will bake tomorrow.

This BREVILLE BVO800XL convection oven is just FABULOUS Mate. Bake 380F for 10 minutes.

EASY PEEZY the more we go on, the more we learn, and the better we get.

I like using the GOLD coating.

I plan to play with the GREEN some shortly.

THANKS HI-TEK and Thanks also to Donnie at Bayou Bullets.

[fastfire]

I have read the 30+ pages of this thread, in there somewhere (I can't find it now) the brand of convestion oven that was recomended.
Can someone name the brand?
I got my Hi-Tek package the other day and am about ready to try this.
Thanks

[Moonman]

fastfire,

Breville BVO800XL SMART Convection Oven $250.

Expensive but works very well, It adjusts heat extremely well.

A great oven for this process.

MY OVEN, set on 380F, an Oven Thermometer read about 380F, A Bar-B-Que Digital Probe read 378F,

A Digital Probe from N.O.E. molds read 368F, ALL AT THE SAME TIME. Not too shabby performance.

Cheap ovens have temp control issues, the Breville does not.

[Gremlin460]

short video of what I did today to fix my volume of mixture once and for all. Sorry about the poor quality, was done one handed with a old phone.

http://s881.photobucket.com/user/Gremlin460/media/VIDEO0020_zps0bf060e4.mp4.html?sort=3&o=0

[Ausglock]

Jesus, Grem.
Talk about over thinking it.

The pop top juice bottles work fine. you drink the juic and then use to mix your coating. easy..

[220]

fastfire,

Breville BVO800XL SMART Convection Oven $250.

Expensive but works very well, It adjusts heat extremely well.


Your posts and a few others convinced me to go the Breville smart oven,
Happy with the price I paid, $240 pacific pasos at the current exchange rate about US$215, from my local electrical retailer, not bad for a little town of less than 1000 people over 400kms from the nearest capital city.

[Moonman]

+1 for the 20 ounce Plastic Coke Cola Bottle and a set of KITCHEN MIXING SPOONS.

In the US, Three (3) Teaspoons (5 ml) = 1 Tablespoon, However,

In Australia and the UK FOUR (4) Teaspoons (5 ml) = 1 Tablespoon.

(IN CASE YOU'RE MAKING A BIGGER BATCH.)

I learned something today.

[Gremlin460]

Jesus, Grem.
Talk about over thinking it.

The pop top juice bottles work fine. you drink the juic and then use to mix your coating. easy..

I want to be acurate, am that anal when I turn up tooling parts, rebuild engines, reco gearboxes and play with my guns.
7mls, is 7 mls.. and now I can repeat 7mls every time, without mistakes, and you ridicule me for being accurate?

It cost $2 to be accurate... is that wrong?

[Ausglock]

not wrong, just not needed.


220... where did you get it? Hardly Normal or the good guys?

[220]

220... where did you get it? Hardly Normal or the good guys?

Local Betta Electrical, they didn't have one in stock, asked them if they could get one, they could, asked them to if they could better the prices from the others and they did.
End up buying most of my electrical appliances of them, always give them a chance to better/match or get close to the prices of the others and they rarely disappoint.
I like to support the local businesses and these people make it easy to do so, also a bonus they are 400m away compared to 80km+ to any of the others.

[Magana559]

Well I cant figure out why my Ruger SR9c leads the barrel so bad. with regular lead and grease groves it would foul out the barrel within 3 rounds,with the tumble lube it takes about 12 rounds. Now with the Hi-Tek I get about 25-30 rounds before keyholing.

Slugged out at 356 and I have tried up from .356 to .358 diameter with no luck. Im guessing this pistol just wont take cast.

Family issues came up so I only tested the 9mm, Ill have all other calibers tested by the end of next week.

Wish me luck!

[Ausglock]

How hard is your alloy?
Try 3 thin coats and see how it goes. Is it leaded all the way along the bore?
Do you use a lee carbide crimp die?

[Magana559]

No hardness tester as of now but I Tried COWW, 50-50 COWW SOWW, 50-50 SOWW and range scrap, and SOWW with 2% pewter. All with the same results of leading down the entire barrel.

I am using a lee FCD, Could the FCD be swaging the lead down causing a bad fit?

[HI-TEK]

No hardness tester as of now but I Tried COWW, 50-50 COWW SOWW, 50-50 SOWW and range scrap, and SOWW with 2% pewter. All with the same results of leading down the entire barrel.

I am using a lee FCD, Could the FCD be swaging the lead down causing a bad fit?
Very interesting results.
Can I ask, if it would be possible to capture a projectile and examine what it looks like after being shot.
That examination, should provide some ideas as to what is happening.
You should not be getting Leading along the entire barrel.
That scenario is making me suspicious about possible other contributing factors for the resulting Leading.

[Ausglock]

Yep. The Lee FCD caused this exact same thing in my Glock 35 40S&W barrel. removed the FCD and replaced it with a Dillon crimp die and no more problems.

[Magana559]

I can try and capture the projectile but its probably going into water jugs or wet pack if I find enough phone books.

I'll try to minimly bell the case and shoot em without a crimp, but I wonder if that will cause the boolit to jump into the bore and cause a pressure spike.

[HI-TEK]

I can try and capture the projectile but its probably going into water jugs or wet pack if I find enough phone books.

I'll try to minimly bell the case and shoot em without a crimp, but I wonder if that will cause the boolit to jump into the bore and cause a pressure spike.

You can make your own ballistic type gel by using commercial Gelatine made into firm blocks as you would make up Jelly, but use less water to make it harder.
You can make up several blocks, and number will depend on what ammo you are using.
Place blocks in line and shoot into it from a distance, and hopefully, you can capture the alloy.
When blocks are damaged too much, simply gently re-heat and re-pour into blocks again and allow to set.
It works

[Gateway Bullets]

I have had some who had problems with drying, especially in cold and damp conditions.
What has been found in the past, if the Acetone supplier, if not storing the drum in air tight containers, and is old stock, the Acetone may have up to 10% water content from absorption of airborne moisture.
Many are not even aware of such detail.
The Water content should not really affect the coatings, aside from the fact that it takes a long time to fully dry, even if it feels dry to the touch.
Moisture is trapped in the coating film, and will not easily dry.
Most obvious symptoms are, that cooked film will contain very fine bubbles, poor adhesion, and when sized, visible fine craters in coating film.
There are no real way of avoiding this sort of problems aside from more drying/warming time of first coated alloys.

What bad acetone? Lol

Leadman, it happened to me! Drove me crazy for two days before it was figured out with the help of others! I went back to my original brand of acetone and poof, coating that worked! Well, worked as well as can be expected for snake oil! Lol

As far as coating my bullets, I measure by weight (35 pounds) and use 20 ml of coating when using metallics, and 15 ml when using non-metallics. I give them all 3 coats because they look better. People buy with their eyes!

I never really figured out how many I get per liter. When I start to get low, I just add to the bottle.

[Magana559]

You can make your own ballistic type gel by using commercial Gelatine made into firm blocks as you would make up Jelly, but use less water to make it harder.
You can make up several blocks, and number will depend on what ammo you are using.
Place blocks in line and shoot into it from a distance, and hopefully, you can capture the alloy.
When blocks are damaged too much, simply gently re-heat and re-pour into blocks again and allow to set.
It works

I have been trying to get my hands on some Ballistics gel but unfortunately Im super short on funds. Ill try to capture a slug and see what I can fund out

[popper]

Magana - http://www.faqs.org/patents/app/20100311025
formulation for gel.

[oley55]

What is the shelf life for the Hi-Tek coatings. I've read this entire thread and then did a search for shelf life but came up empty. I did find a couple posts that mentioned keeping both mixed and un-mixed components refrigerated to extend the shelf life, but saw nothing advising what the expected shelf life is (mixed or unmixed)..............?

[Magana559]

I have been looking at the clear ballistics gel from http://clearballistics.com/ but they are quite $$$

best part is I don't have to keep the block at a critical temp or worry about storage and can be used over and over.

[HI-TEK]

I have been looking at the clear ballistics gel from http://clearballistics.com/ but they are quite $$$

best part is I don't have to keep the block at a critical temp or worry about storage and can be used over and over.

Please find attached a recipe which is easy to do, and it works.
Just need Gelatine from wholesaler, not retail packs as they are much too expensive.

INGREDIENTS REQUIRED FOR GEL MANUFACTURE

Starting point To make about 10 kilos of Gel


1. 1.0 kilo of Cryogel 200 (Raw Food Grade/Industrial Gelatine)
2. 9 Kilo of Boiling water
3. 300mls of Citric Acid solution, 50% strength, ( Premix 150g Citric Acid to 150g warm Water)


Sprinkle Cryogel into water whilst mixing.
Stir continuously for 5 minutes, add the 300mls Citric Acid solution (to help preserve the mix)
Pack into suitable vessels coated with vegetable oil to reduce sticking.

Refrigerate to set quickly, or let sit overnight at ambient conditions.

This recipe should provide reasonably firm Gel.


If more hardness is required for the finished Gel, increase Cryogel additions by 100 gram increments, until desired hardness is reached after product is allowed to cool totally.

Depending on type and velocity of projectiles required to be captured, place as many blocks in depth as required, and until projectiles are captured and are accessible for removal.

Used gel , can be recycled, by gently warming until liquid again, and then poured back into suitable containers to re-set into desired shape.
It is better to add used gel into small amount hot freshly prepared mixture, as it will redissolve faster whilst mixing into hot liquid, whilst stirring & applying more gentle heat to aid re-solubilise used gel.

It is recommended that the formed blocks of Gel, is placed suitable distance away from user , to minimise impact damage.

PLEASE NOTE.

After use the gel becomes contaminated with Lead and other materials and is no longer food grade rated.

When handling gel, it is better to use gloved hands.
Take care that whilst making gel, the product is hot.

Do not use Galvanised or Tin Plated vessels to make the gel.
Stainless containers are the most recommended vessels for manufacture and remanufacture of the gel.

[HI-TEK]

What is the shelf life for the Hi-Tek coatings. I've read this entire thread and then did a search for shelf life but came up empty. I did find a couple posts that mentioned keeping both mixed and un-mixed components refrigerated to extend the shelf life, but saw nothing advising what the expected shelf life is (mixed or unmixed)..............?

The resin system is stable as long as you ensure that lid is tight, and kept out of sunlight.
I have had reports of coating used after a year without problems.
Once catalysed, they have limited shelf life of a few days to a couple of weeks, and will depend on temperatures at which they are stored.
With catalysed system, you should make up enough to use up completely so there is no wastage, and you use freshly made coating mixture each time.
Because coating goes a long way, and a little covers many projectiles, it is much better to cast too much, and then coat until you run out of mixture, even if you have cast left over, which can be done with next batch.

[TES]

What bad acetone? Lol

Leadman, it happened to me! Drove me crazy for two days before it was figured out with the help of others! I went back to my original brand of acetone and poof, coating that worked! Well, worked as well as can be expected for snake oil! Lol

As far as coating my bullets, I measure by weight (35 pounds) and use 20 ml of coating when using metallics, and 15 ml when using non-metallics. I give them all 3 coats because they look better. People buy with their eyes!

I never really figured out how many I get per liter. When I start to get low, I just add to the bottle.

What brand of acetone do you use?

[Gateway Bullets]

The brand I use is ? Kleen in a blue and yellow can. The bad brand I had was Crown.

[KYCaster]

I have been looking at the clear ballistics gel from http://clearballistics.com/ but they are quite $$$

best part is I don't have to keep the block at a critical temp or worry about storage and can be used over and over.


To capture boolits undamaged, use fibre-filled pillows. I use the really cheap ones from Dollar General store. Three of them will fit in a 5 gal. bucket, tightly packed and have stopped every handgun bullet I've shot into them so far.

Haven't been able to stop a 2000 fps 30 cal. though.

Jerry

[Gateway Bullets]

That's a good idea! How many rounds can you shoot into it before they wear out?

[Ausglock]

oley55.
I have mixed coating sitting on my bench that has been mixed for over 6 weeks. coated with some last night and it is still working fine.

My coloured resin gets stored in the fridge, now it starting to warm up. in winter, it lived under the bench at room temp.

Just came down from the shed for lunch. I have cast 3000 this morning and plan on another 3000 this afternoon. Coating and baking tomorrow with the Kryptonite Green.

[Gremlin460]

36 rounds of Glitter gold dual coated, 4.2gn AP50N @ 10yard mark.
Beretta 92FS

89768

[HI-TEK]

36 rounds of Glitter gold dual coated, 4.2gn AP50N @ 10yard mark.
Beretta 92FS

89768

How was your gun after shooting?
Was it clean?
How does these results compare to what you have done previously?

[Hi-Performance Bullet Coatings]

What bad acetone? Lol

Leadman, it happened to me! Drove me crazy for two days before it was figured out with the help of others!


Sounds like a smart guy....lol

[popper]

saw one gel formula that used pectin for a stabilizer.

[Moonman]

I fired a few HI-TEK "Gold" pills today at an indoor range.
Test firing was at 25 and 33 feet.
I just shoot for FUN, I'm not a COMPETITION SHOOTER.

The lead Pills I cast were mostly (Soft) STICK ON WHEEL WEIGHTS
and had a Brinell Hardness of about 8 or so with a CABINE TREE TESTER.

Before coating I give my cast pills an ACETONE BATH and drying to make sure they're clean.

I've started using 1 1/2 teaspoons of (GOLD METALLIC COLOR) mix per 5 pounds of bullets,
no matter what their weight or configuration.
That's my baseline for the moment, I may even REDUCE that a bit more.

I'm not in a hurry so I let each coat dry overnight before baking, I have multiple trays for drying/baking.

I also preheat the boolits with a hairdryer a bit before baking.

38 Special 4 1/2" Slab barrel S&W PPC Revolver.
156 SWC over 3.0 grains BULLSEYE powder
148 grain BUTTON NOSE WC over 3.0 grains of BULLSEYE.
Double Coated "GOLD" 5/1/7 ACETONE mix.
Baked in a Breville "SMART" Convection Oven 380F for 10 minutes each coat.

1911 Colt "Gunsite" model 5" 45ACP.
225 grain RN over 4.0 grains BULLSEYE Powder.
Twice "GOLD" coated 5/1/7 Acetone mix.
Baked in a Breville "SMART" Convection Oven 380F for 10 minutes each coat.

Presently I'm coating some PILLS using the EXTREME 2 CATALYST in the SECOND COATING MIX.

BULLEYE is considered a "DIRTY" powder by many, including me.

Today was a test of my PROCESSES.

Coating LOOKED GOOD, it functioned as it IS SUPPOSED TOO.

NO LEADING IN EITHER FIREARM, inspection light inside the barrel, THEY'RE REALLY CLEAN.

IT'S TRULY AMAZING, Low Smoke too. (I was ALOX Tumbling)

I'll play with LOADS now that I know my process of coating and baking KEEPS THE COATING ON.
The "OPEN" SIGHTS on these firearms have not been adjusted for these loads as of yet.

I'm a HAPPY CAMPER, and a few folks that I let look into the barrels were IMPRESSED also.

I am just really SATISFIED with the "GOLD" coating so far.
THANKS TO "DONNIE AT BAYOU BULLETS" for the coatings and FAST SERVICE.

Thanks to HI-TEK for this process.

Thanks to Ausglock for his advise to me on getting started.

[Magana559]

No luck on making gel because gelatin is very expensive even when bought in bulk.

Ill invest in clear synthetic gel soon.

[Ausglock]

G'day Moonman.
Mate. I'm glad to help.

Well done. I have not been game to try coating and firing pills of 8 BHN. All mine are 12 to 16 BHN.
I might try some 8 to 10 BHN for 45ACP pills.

[Magana559]

OK I just cleaned out my SR9c and the leadding is not all the way down the barrel, its only the last inch of the 3" barrel BUT its definitely not coming out with just a bore brush.....I sure hope I dont run into this when I start using cast in the rifles! The lead is bonded to the steel, I cannot brush it out and cant find any chore boy in the house.

I dont know what is causing this issue. But it seems like the HI TEK coating is working because the bore is super shiny except the last inch.
ANY input would be more than welcome!

[Moonman]

Magana559,

I'm not sure if all this applies.

SEARCH for FROM INGOT TO TARGET, a Sticky in Cast Boolits.

It concerns a revolver and shooting cast bullets.

LOOK at Page 58 about LEADING. (FROM INGOT TO TARGET ARTICLE)

Causes for leading can be traced to POSITION OF THE LEADING.

Leading at the MUZZLE END, shows that the bullet RAN OUT OF LUBE in his article.

Granted your Semi-Auto is not a revolver, but is it POSSIBLE that you did not have enough coating on the projectile?

Do you know the size of your BORE?

Is it possible that your BULLET FIT, POWDER CHARGE, and COATING ADHESION were possibly lacking?

What COLOR did you use and how many COATS 2 OR 3?

Did you ACETONE RUB FOR 30 SECONDS to check for color coming off?

Did you Do the SMASH TEST to check for FLAKING of the coating?

Both tests NEED TO BE DONE WITH EACH COAT.

What Temperature and How Long did you bake?

Did you use a CONVECTION OVEN?

How much ALLOY or PROJECTILES did you BAKE PER LOAD?



9MM can have varied sizes and chamber depths which cause ISSUES for handloaders.

The article also talks of PROPER LEAD HARDNESS to match the VELOCITY/PRESSURE of the round.

The article also talks of the POWDER BURN RATE.

I just shot some 45ACP and 38 SPECIAL that were VERY SOFT (8 Brinell or so) and they were

coated with the "GOLD" Metallic. These are LOWER PRESSURE than your 9MM, but worked for me.

The article also speaks of using "BRONZE WOOL" in place of CHORE BOY as it makes LESS OF A MESS WHEN SCISSOR CUT.

When experimenting with cast boolits and coatings you have to be prepared to DEAL WITH LEADING,

until you have YOUR PROCESS VALIDATED.

GOOD LUCK with you search for answers with coatings and your SPECIFIC firearm.

[Moonman]

Magana559,

I went back to page 99 and read your posts.

Ausglock SUGGESTS YOU DUMP THE FCD and get a Dillon CRIMP DIE, this may very well be your easy answer.

[Magana559]

Magana559,

I'm not sure if all this applies.

SEARCH for FROM INGOT TO TARGET, a Sticky in Cast Boolits.

It concerns a revolver and shooting cast bullets.

LOOK at Page 58 about LEADING. (FROM INGOT TO TARGET ARTICLE)

Causes for leading can be traced to POSITION OF THE LEADING.

Leading at the MUZZLE END, shows that the bullet RAN OUT OF LUBE in his article.

Granted your Semi-Auto is not a revolver, but is it POSSIBLE that you did not have enough coating on the projectile?

Do you know the size of your BORE?
Yes bore is .355 using .356-.358 boolits with no luck
Is it possible that your BULLET FIT, POWDER CHARGE, and COATING ADHESION were possibly lacking?

What COLOR did you use and how many COATS 2 OR 3?

using copper read with 2 coats

Did you ACETONE RUB FOR 30 SECONDS to check for color coming off?

Did you Do the SMASH TEST to check for FLAKING of the coating?

Both tests NEED TO BE DONE WITH EACH COAT.

smash test and acetone test done after each coat with NO color on white paper towel.

What Temperature and How Long did you bake?

Did you use a CONVECTION OVEN?

I use a convection oven at 380 and I bake for 8-12 min depending on color


How much ALLOY or PROJECTILES did you BAKE PER LOAD?

about 150-200 per bake I have a small oven with one rack



9MM can have varied sizes and chamber depths which cause ISSUES for handloaders.

The article also talks of PROPER LEAD HARDNESS to match the VELOCITY/PRESSURE of the round.

The article also talks of the POWDER BURN RATE.

I just shot some 45ACP and 38 SPECIAL that were VERY SOFT (8 Brinell or so) and they were

coated with the "GOLD" Metallic. These are LOWER PRESSURE than your 9MM, but worked for me.

The article also speaks of using "BRONZE WOOL" in place of CHORE BOY as it makes LESS OF A MESS WHEN SCISSOR CUT.

When experimenting with cast boolits and coatings you have to be prepared to DEAL WITH LEADING,

until you have YOUR PROCESS VALIDATED.

GOOD LUCK with you search for answers with coatings and your SPECIFIC firearm.

[HI-TEK]

Magana559,

I'm not sure if all this applies.

SEARCH for FROM INGOT TO TARGET, a Sticky in Cast Boolits.

It concerns a revolver and shooting cast bullets.

LOOK at Page 58 about LEADING. (FROM INGOT TO TARGET ARTICLE)

Causes for leading can be traced to POSITION OF THE LEADING.

Leading at the MUZZLE END, shows that the bullet RAN OUT OF LUBE in his article.

Granted your Semi-Auto is not a revolver, but is it POSSIBLE that you did not have enough coating on the projectile?

Do you know the size of your BORE?
Yes bore is .355 using .356-.358 boolits with no luck
Is it possible that your BULLET FIT, POWDER CHARGE, and COATING ADHESION were possibly lacking?

What COLOR did you use and how many COATS 2 OR 3?

using copper read with 2 coats

Did you ACETONE RUB FOR 30 SECONDS to check for color coming off?

Did you Do the SMASH TEST to check for FLAKING of the coating?

Both tests NEED TO BE DONE WITH EACH COAT.

smash test and acetone test done after each coat with NO color on white paper towel.

What Temperature and How Long did you bake?

Did you use a CONVECTION OVEN?

I use a convection oven at 380 and I bake for 8-12 min depending on color


How much ALLOY or PROJECTILES did you BAKE PER LOAD?

about 150-200 per bake I have a small oven with one rack



9MM can have varied sizes and chamber depths which cause ISSUES for handloaders.

The article also talks of PROPER LEAD HARDNESS to match the VELOCITY/PRESSURE of the round.

The article also talks of the POWDER BURN RATE.

I just shot some 45ACP and 38 SPECIAL that were VERY SOFT (8 Brinell or so) and they were

coated with the "GOLD" Metallic. These are LOWER PRESSURE than your 9MM, but worked for me.

The article also speaks of using "BRONZE WOOL" in place of CHORE BOY as it makes LESS OF A MESS WHEN SCISSOR CUT.

When experimenting with cast boolits and coatings you have to be prepared to DEAL WITH LEADING,

until you have YOUR PROCESS VALIDATED.

GOOD LUCK with you search for answers with coatings and your SPECIFIC firearm.

Magana559

Just a quic question if you can please post a photo of the coated projectile.
Visual appearance will tell me a lot, and, it may be possible to identify what is going on.
At this stage, I am interested in the coating aspects, and if unable to identify things going wrong, we can go though things in steps to locate any problematic areas.

Hi-Tek

[Magana559]

Im going to dump the FCD and Im going to try and run them without a crimp and see how it goes.

I might go to another powder, Im using both Titegroup and autocomp with no success. Maybe I need a slower powder.

I have been battling this for 2 months. The reason why Im asking if anybody has any Ideas.

Ill try the lube in other calibers see how It works, will be back with a report!

[Hi-Performance Bullet Coatings]

Im going to dump the FCD and Im going to try and run them without a crimp and see how it goes.

A lot of folks tend to over crimp with a FCD. Just a standard Taper Crimp die is all one really needs. One way to test if your over crimping is to pull a bullet that you ran thru your FCD and measure it. Is Measure the same as before you loaded it.

[Dystaxia]

OK I just cleaned out my SR9c and the leadding is not all the way down the barrel, its only the last inch of the 3" barrel BUT its definitely not coming out with just a bore brush.....I sure hope I dont run into this when I start using cast in the rifles! The lead is bonded to the steel, I cannot brush it out and cant find any chore boy in the house.

I dont know what is causing this issue. But it seems like the HI TEK coating is working because the bore is super shiny except the last inch.
ANY input would be more than welcome!

What mold are you using?

[dverna]

Magana.

Do not give up. You should never have used the FCD. I use Dillon dies loading 9mm and they are fine -- but any standard taper crimp die will do the job.

I use W231 or HP 38 (same powders) and do not get leading. I have used Clays as well. You have a sizing issue (could be affected by the crimp) or lack of lube/coating. Focus there first before worrying about powders.

Alloy could be a problem but it can normally be resolved with sizing. But it looks as though you have tired up to .358 without success and that is puzzling.

Posting a picture of your bullets before loading and after removal from the finished round may be helpful.

Don Verna

[Magana559]

Thanks guy! I really apriciate all the help.
Ill post a picture of the coated projectile once Im back home.

[Ausglock]

if you have a bullet puller hammer, pull a few and look for coating shaved off. A lot here in OZ had this problem when loading on a Lee pro1000 that seated and crimped in the one die station.

My 357Sig loads are loaded with a severe heavy crimp. I can pull the bullets and the coating is undamaged from the crimp.
I use Dillon dies.
90063
90064

[popper]

2 or 3 coats? My XDs 9 did that first coating try (green coating). Added a 3rd coat, seated ~ 0.01 deeper, little harder alloy and changed from WST back to 231, problem solved. Don't know which was the fix but it worked in 3 XDs9's. Yours is overrun leading, maybe shaved when loading or from the sharp bore edge.

[gunoil]

1)Ditto trev: the dillon seats in one station, "it does nothing but push bullet down," does not even touch brass. I just noticed that tonite, learning new S1050.
2)I have a lyman seater die that seats but squeezes brass too.
3)Last step of the dillon is great for coated bullets. My spent brass use to be black on one side, now my brass is clean around.

[Ausglock]

latest info on drop bears...

http://www.australiangeographic.com.au/journal/drop-bears-prefer-travellers-says-study.htm#.UqLnkct6d00.facebook

[Gremlin460]

Trev you still got any of them projectiles I sent you?? If so would you please test one for hardness, I have no real clue what these COWW are working at bhn wise.. I have no tester..

Nice find on the droppers Havent seen one on the last few trips, did see some of the territorial trees they claw the bark off though.

[Ausglock]

I gave them to Hitek Joe.
COWW is about 10 to 12
BHN

[kweidner]

I would pull a bullet and measure. FCD will size down. Another note is the expander from Dillon is not meant for larger diameter boolits. It is engineered for jacketed stuff. I had a lead shaving problem in 9mm. Got a Mr Bullet expander and eliminated 99% of the scraping. Hard to push a .357 into a .355 hole and expect good results. First step is to pull a boolit and inspect coating then measure with micrometer. Hardball alloy only for 9mm and 40. 45acp doesn't really care but the pressure from the smaller ones is significantly more. I use both titght group and bullseye and given the above steps have had no problems once I got a Breville oven that has consistent temps.

[popper]

Ausglock - after recovering a PCd 40SW, I can recommend pistol mould with NO lube groove for coated, but BB. A flat base 165 into a rock pile ~ 15', only a couple thou. 'tail' on the base & LG. Sized 0.401" for an XDm 40. Really tough (hard?) alloy best weight retention was 98%, 5" into the pile ( wet frozen combination of blue/black paving shale, limestone chat & some mud). Doubt if the range would like me shooting steel plates with this alloy. Couldn't find any of the HiTek coated 9mm but expect the same results. Recovered slugs are a real eye opener.

[Gremlin460]

Wife just bought me a 4 die Lee Delux pistol set with carbide dies, comes with a FCD included, thinking I might put that to one side for Jwords and buy a lee taper crimp for the casts.

Anyone have thoughts on this?

edit: it's the 90963 coded set for 9mm Luger.

[Ausglock]

the Lee Carbide FCD in 9mm is no problem as the 9mm case is tapered. The 40 S&W case is straight and the FCD is a problem with the 40. Not the 9mm.
Use it .

[prickett]

Wife just bought me a 4 die Lee Delux pistol set with carbide dies, comes with a FCD included, thinking I might put that to one side for Jwords and buy a lee taper crimp for the casts.

Anyone have thoughts on this?

edit: it's the 90963 coded set for 9mm Luger.

My answer: it depends on your situation.

I started out using the FCD and liked it because it resulted in a round that passed my cartridge go/no-go gauge. But, my CZ-75 is susceptible to leading, and, after pulling a loaded boolit, I found that my carefully oversized .358" had been squished back to .356". I now use a taper crimp die (and my cartridges no longer pass the gauge check).

So, I wouldn't automatically set it aside. It provides a useful function. But, if you need oversized boolits, then you'll probably need to go the taper crimp die route.

[Moonman]

Is anyone PISTOL shooting HI-TEC METALLICS tracking any signs of barrel wear?

[Ausglock]

A mate runs an indoor range. He has a Glock 17 that has over 1,000,000 rounds of gold coated pills through it. The bore is perfect. There is erosion at the chamber end if the bore and peening of the barrel hood extension . But it still shoots great. I ran a few mags through it a few weeks ago.

[Moonman]

Ausglock,

That's good news about wear, as I have a BUNCH OF 38'S AND 45'S GOLD METALLIC COATED.
I'm going to try to make some GREEN Boolits now.

Note taking time again, I'm pretty confident with the GOLD now, Green will be I testing coating TIME/AMOUNT.

[Ausglock]

Bake temp and time is the same for the green as it is for the gold. I use 5-1-7 mix for all coatings.

[Moonman]

Thanks, Mate.

[TES]

5 what and 7 what?

[Moonman]

5 COLOR, 1 CATALYST, 7 ACETONE is the ratio.

You can use teaspoons or 55 gallon drums, the ratio matters, not the measuring instrument.

[DrBill33]

Thanks for responses re: taking ALOX off. YEP! It certainly is a stinking mess when you remelt them!!! I will hold that until I see if the Gasoline soaking works or not!

May this celebration of Christ's Birth be meaningful for you and yours!

The Rev. Dr.M. .Kunkle, FAPC, HOKC

[popper]

I just swished em around for a min. then poured the gas off. PCd as soon as they dried. You might want to do an acetone final wash to get any oils off before HiTeking.

[sigman]

Hi guys, ive also been getting leading in my sig226 9mm using the lee factory crimp die also, i know its not from the HITEK as I use it in 38sp and light 357mag and 45lc with no problems and i've given some of my projectiles to other members of my club who shoot glock and Trojans with no problems, going back to the Dillon dies this weekend to test for leading. loving the HITEK no messy dies or fingers when loading mags or speed loaders no dirt and **** sticking to boolits.

[Gremlin460]

The only reson I asked about the FCD is to avoid damaging the coating, I had heard the Taper Dies gave a superior finished product BUT in saying that, here is a quote from Lee's own web site.

Lee 9MM LUGER/38 SUPER/38 ACP/380 AUTO Taper Crimp Die, overcomes crimp problems caused by poor die design. Offers little or no advantage when used with 1986 or newer Lee Dies as the crimp angle is already a modified taper crimp

[Gremlin460]

Hitek Joe:
Fired
25 from Beretta 92fs
25 Springfield 1911
25 Sprinfield Custom
25 Glock 17

No leading in ANY of the above. Accuracy was awfull, but I am sure that can be cured with working out better load data.
Finally we have success with the coating, or to be correct, finally we have got the coating methology correct.

[Gremlin460]

Hitek Joe:
Fired
25 from Beretta 92fs
25 Springfield 1911
25 Sprinfield Custom
25 Glock 17

No leading in ANY of the above. Accuracy was awfull, but I am sure that can be cured with working out better load data.
Finally we have success with the coating, or to be correct, finally we have got the coating methology correct.

[Ausglock]

Accuracy was awfull, .
Ha ha ha.
Operator Error.
Squeeeeze the trigger. don't jerk it.

[leadman]

I bought a couple of Arisakas 99s recently so bought a Lee Paceetter die set that came with a FCD. Did not want to use it so tried to get the bullet seater die to take the flare out of the case. GUESS WHAT! Lee quit making a bullet seater die that will crimp! They are all their "Dead Length Seater". Sucks since I load my rifle on the Lee Classic Turret press and there is not room for the FCD. Andy Lee said they changed the bullet seating dies about 1 year ago, even though their 2013 catalog does not reflect this.
I am going to see if the HT coating will work to enlarge the bullet by 1 1/2 thousands for these Arisakas as they need a .316" boolit.
And had trouble today with my PID units varying the temperature of my ovens to much so may borrow the idea posted earlier of putting bricks in the oven since the PID units worked good on my lead pot.

[IllinoisCoyoteHunter]

Quick question. I know it is recommended to wear a respirator while mixing the ingredients and coating. Are you guys able to bake the boolits inside? Or does it release fumes? I know this has probably been hashed out a couple times in this rather lengthy thread. Thanks!

[Moonman]

Baking does release some odors and you may notice some discoloration

of the Convection Ovens surfaces.

[IllinoisCoyoteHunter]

OK, so this process can be done....say in a basement?

[Moonman]

I'm not sure about your basement, you should have GOOD ventilation.

One thing you're working with is ACETONE. (Dangerous chemical)

EXTREMELY Flammable, major component of Nail Polish Remover and Paint Thinners,

Polyester Resin Thinning, Used to remove Super Glue, and is also used

in conjunction WITH CHEMICAL PEALING OF THE SKIN by Dermatologists.

I don't know what's in the COLOR and CATALYST.

Maybe HI-TEK JOE WILL chime in with a word later

about the other components toxicity indoors or in close quarters.

My ovens out in the garage where I can open doors.

[Gremlin460]

Ha ha ha.
Operator Error.
Squeeeeze the trigger. don't jerk it.
It's not ya dick.

Very hard to jerk a trigger in a ramsome rest, unless you have found a way to do it?
The free hand tests we did between 4 of us were using loads made by one of the guys. We all agreed that it was loads and possible incorect OAL that cause the increase in MOA. No great problem.
I am pleased that testing could be carried out over a variety of guns, all with no leading.

[gunoil]

I have lee and dillon, take a flair'ed case stick it in your seat die. In the dillon it goes all in touching nothing. So: all the dillon die does is seat. The vertical walls are wide. I think case gage'ing is a good idea. Their reasonable at midway for what they do. Good tool to have around.

l wish there was away to invent a seat/taper crimp die all in one. Prob use the RCBS seat/crmp for copper plated projectiles but not for hi-tech bullets.

[Moonman]

Ausglock/HI-TEK JOE,

My GOLD METALLIC (5/1/7 ACETONE) bakes A-OK in my BREVILLE at 380F for 10 MINUTES.
MY DARK GREEN "FAILS" at that setting.

I coated about 50 pills today in DARK GREEN. (5/1/6 ACETONE I had mixed.)
RAISED the TEMP to 400F and Baked 10 Minutes.
PASSED BOTH TESTS TWICE. YEA!!!!!!

I had a PM from someone on another Forum tell me
that they had DARK GREEN pills FAIL the WIPE TEST in their BREVILLE BRO800XL
"SMART" Convection Oven (380F for 10 Mins).

They changed procedures, RAISED the baking TEMP to 400F
for 10 Minutes and then the GREEN worked for them.

Donnie from BAYOU BULLETS in USA where I purchased my components
also contacted me also about fixing my DARK GREEN issues.
GREAT CUSTOMER SERVICE!!!!

I'm finding the HI-TEK Coatings VERY INTERESTING.

GOOD DEAL FOR NOW MATES, Have a COLD FOSTER'S from me,
And KEEP YOUR EYES out For those SHEILA'S.

MOONMAN

[Ausglock]

Moonman.
Try leaving your temp at 380F but increase your time to 12 minutes.

I find that a stable temp is better and play with time.
Remember, each coating has different insulation properties and may need a longer time to get the alloy to temp to allow bonding of the coating.

I have to do this with the reds.

I tried a few new blue coatings on the weekend, but they all failed to remain blue.
Back to the drawing board for Joe.
There is one new coating that is showing promise for a bright lime green Zombie green. Joe has to tweak the formula a bit.

I hope Santa is kind to you lot and brings you heaps of presents in the form of bullet molds, coating etc etc etc.

[Gateway Bullets]

Moonman.
Try leaving your temp at 380F but increase your time to 12 minutes.

I find that a stable temp is better and play with time.
Remember, each coating has different insulation properties and may need a longer time to get the alloy to temp to allow bonding of the coating.

I have to do this with the reds.

I tried a few new blue coatings on the weekend, but they all failed to remain blue.
Back to the drawing board for Joe.
There is one new coating that is showing promise for a bright lime green Zombie green. Joe has to tweak the formula a bit.

I hope Santa is kind to you lot and brings you heaps of presents in the form of bullet molds, coating etc etc etc.

Forget the bullets molds! I want Santa to bring me the winning Mega Millions lottery ticket. I think they said the winning jackpot is going to be over $550 million dollars!

[Moonman]

Trevor,

Thanks, I'll give that a try.

Gateway Bullets,

I win the MEGA LOTTO, ALL MY STUFFS FOR SALE.

Commercial Ammo and UNLIMITED TRAVEL in a super custom bus

traveling everywhere SHOOTING IT UP.

[Ausglock]

You blokes are just too greedy.
All I want is a BLOODY MAGMA MARK 8 or two and 2 auto sizers with collators.
Is that asking too much?????
magma are schitting me to tears with their 2 years wait on machines. FFS... If Ballisticast had their collective schit together, I'd buy one of theirs. but I hear their quality control is stone-age.

[Gateway Bullets]

Trev, Moonman

If I win you guys can have all of my commercial stuff!

[Gremlin460]

Trev did your blue turn black??
The violet x2 I tried, before and have tried 20 since turn black.. the coating seems to work, just wont stay blue

as a side note, If I won, not much would change for me, I am quite happy with my life, might get a gardner, I hate mowing lawns. Much rather see 550 people get $1 mill than the other way around.

[HI-TEK]

Trev did your blue turn black??
The violet x2 I tried, before and have tried 20 since turn black.. the coating seems to work, just wont stay blue

as a side note, If I won, not much would change for me, I am quite happy with my life, might get a gardner, I hate mowing lawns. Much rather see 550 people get $1 mill than the other way around.

I am with you.
I have said many times previously, that an average person earns about a million in a lifetime of working.
With all these various lotteries, I had always thought, that it would be very good idea to have multiple winners of equal amounts.
with 550 million winner, it is a mindless amount of money for someone who is a battler.
That sort of win, I would predict would ruin some folks lives, after they go on a spending spree and suffer health problems associated with the trying to protect themselves from "bargain hunters"..

As said by many folk, money is the root of all evil..... (it would be good though, to have enough so you don't go hungry, had a roof over your head and were comfortable).

[farmerjim]

I have been Hi-Tek coating 45s, 38s and 9mms for several months and have the procedure perfected for my equipment. Now I want to coat some 22 cal 55 grain C225-55-RF boolits. They fall through the holes in my present screens.
Does anybody here have experience coating these small Boolits? I have the standard green, and Copper resins and the standard and the 2 extreme Catalysts. Which is best? Do I need to adjust the time in the oven for such a small diameter Boolit?

[leadman]

I have been using aluminum window screen. I cut it a little larger than my tray, bend the edges up, and just set it in the tray. You may want to run a cycle in the oven with nothing on it as it gives off an aluminum colored coating at first.

[leadman]

Awhile back someone asked for pictures of the pid units I built so here is the first one I did. The cabinet is vented so I did not install a heat sink on the solid state relay. I used it thru the Arizona summer and it never got too hot to lay my hand on.

The thermocouple in this case is a T-nut rethreaded for the metric thread from 1/4-20 thread and brazed to the bottom of my RCBS lead pot. For the ovens to bake my boolits coated with HT I drilled a hole in the sheet metal double thickness sheetmetal then enlarged the outer hole so the thermocouple nut would reach the inner sheetmetal. Depending on where the hole is drilled the setting may have to be adjusted to get the correct temperature in the oven.

The second and third pids I did not install a light in the front of the box as the pid has indicator lights on it and also the RCBS pot and the toaster ovens have lights. IIRC I have about $40 to $60 in each pid. I reduced the cost some by buying outdoor extension cords and cutting them to bring power in and out of the pid. This costs about the same ($10) as buying the 2 plugs needed without the wire. I left the power in side long so I did not have to use another cord to reach the plugs in my garage and the power out cord is about 1' long.

[Ausglock]

Sweet setup.
Over the holiday break, I'm rebuilding my PID into an old UPS case that has the power outlets already mounted at the rear of the case.
Going to install 2 PIDs as I have 1 for the main pot and another for the pre-heat/ pre-melt pot. I have some plugs to allow the 6" K sensors to also plug into the rear of the case.

Since moving to the Heller oven, I do not need the PID on it as this oven has perfect heat control.

[gunoil]

Gator breath, get out there & get those christmas lights up.

[Ausglock]

Ha. Not this year, gunslick. You got yours up? Hitek joe just got a delivery of jack daniels. Don't expect anything from him over the holidays. He will have alcohol poisoning for the next 4 weeks.

[HI-TEK]

Ha. Not this year, gunslick. You got yours up? Hitek joe just got a delivery of jack daniels. Don't expect anything from him over the holidays. He will have alcohol poisoning for the next 4 weeks.

Ha,
I have the Jack Daniels from my sons, but no time to holiday or to relax, and, I was told by the boss, "you have no time to sit around", "you have coatings to make and supply".
Locals also want it all before holidays, and newer and better, bigger and brighter......lol
Ah well, such is life.....

[Moonman]

God created Jack Danial's as a counterbalance to over demanding bosses.:drinks:

[Magana559]

Well guys I definitely am going to give up on the hi tek on the 9mm....it just won't work for me. Hours of testing following hours of cleaning the barrel.

But I did find something that will work for me.

Also the hitek works awesome in my rifles! Need to work up a load for my 30-30 because I would shoot a 4" group at 50 yards.
A bit faster powder should work just fine!

[Gateway Bullets]

God created Jack Danial's as a counterbalance to over demanding bosses.:drinks:

If you ever get a chance, take the tour of the distillery. Makes your mouth water seeing all of the warehouses stacked to the ceiling with barrels filled with liquid gold! The only problem, the don't give out samples and you can't buy the stuff there! It's a dry county!

[Gremlin460]

Do not get side-tracked when baking boolits, I got stuck on the phone today with a customer and missed the timer alarm, boolits do not like 18 mins at 202c LOL.

Theres 250 ready for the pot....

[gunoil]

No, trev. I'll prob just put my same lights up which is not much or might just go cast some 380's.

[gunoil]

No trev. well maybe those lights l put up last year. I'll put em up friday morning.

Can someone explain the HT 9mm problems?

[Moonman]

Could Magana505 problem with 9MM related to the

RUGER SR9 he's shooting the pills in?

[Moonman]

Could Magana505 problem with 9MM related to the

RUGER SR9 he's shooting the pills in?

[Moonman]

Apparently Magana505 has had 9MM success with Harbor Freight

"RED" Powder Coating.

He has fired 100 rounds through his Ruger SR9 and has CLEAN BARREL.

At least he found a coating he's happy with, even if it's not HI-TEC.

[Magana559]

300 as of today, with a lead free barrel.

Going to try the SKS, 45-70, and the 30-30 on Saturday with the hi tek coating, did get good results with the 30-30 last time. Going to try a different powder hoping for better results!

[popper]

Magana - what color HiTek , load & alloy for 30/30? Green didn't work for me, above ~ 1200 fps, but did in 9 & 40. HF works fine in 30/30, try the dry tumble method.