simple Hi-Tek coating

[Ausglock]

Congrats to Dan for the win at the Victoria State titles for IPSC Standard Division.
Well done, Dan

[dansedgli]

Thanks Trev. I came home and cast more projies. :grin:

[Petander]

Tomorrow I’ll shoot for 180 internal (356) and try pre-heat.

FWIW when my bullet probe reads 180°C inside, the surface of that same exact bullet is already 195°C measured with IR.

I have my probe alarm set @ 170°C. Then my surface temps are average 182-185°C.

IR meters are handy to add to confusion. :)

[RydForLyf]

Can you advise, about internal bullet temperatures?
Is temperature probe inserted into coated cast or plain Lead?
If your probe is in plain Lead, the actually coated cast can be at greatly different temperature.
Where is your probe located in your tray. Can the heating element burn coating with radiant heat?
The coating you are using, was pre tested several times over about 3 months, by different people and before it was sent to the US.
The baked coating which remained Blue, came out of the oven at 195C. (383F)
I don't know or understand, why suddenly such results are totally different now.

Internal bullet temp hit 365F at 5:30. Went 2 minutes more as instructed.
Probe is in a matching bullet but uncoated, so temp rises quicker meaning less cooking time.
Probed bullet is in middle of tray, surrounded by bullets, to mimic all the other bullets.
Oven has elements below and element above. Bullets are in middle slot, equal distance from elements.

I’ve seen the photos and believe them. Looks like Avenger442 and I got some of that first batch. I ordered on 2/12. I wonder how Burnt Fingers is making out.

I’ll play more today and add some pictures.

Cheers!

[RydForLyf]

FWIW when my bullet probe reads 180°C inside, the surface of that same exact bullet is already 195°C measured with IR.

I have my probe alarm set @ 170°C. Then my surface temps are average 182-185°C.

IR meters are handy to add to confusion. :)

I have one, just haven’t used it for this yet.

[RydForLyf]

What dies are you using? I can run 2,6,92 alloy sized .357 in a G17 and a G34 all day.
But use a Lee FC die and I get leading within 5 rounds.


As for the Blue. drop your temp and increase the time. Be sure that the heating elements are no closer than 4 inches from your casts. radiant heat will cause green easily.

Dillon crimp die. I checked several sized bullets with both digital caliper and Starrett micrometer. Everything is going through a Star .357 die and measure .358. I pulled a couple apart and they both measured .3575/.358, just a bit eccentric. The coating on the pulled bullets look perfect and they smash fine.

My COWW + Linotype test out to about 14 BNH. The mold is a Lee 356-120-TC, the little brother to the Lee 401-175-TC that I have had such great success with in my G35. I shoot nothing but lead through that G35 stock barrel and never get any leading. Same alloy, same lube, totally different results.

I’ll put my KKM barrel back in the G17 and see if that fares any better.

I’m all ears for anything to help solve this riddle as it has plagued me for a long time.

[RydForLyf]

I have the tru blue. I baked it just as I bake all the other hi tek colors. It came out blue. RydForLyf can you describe your thermometer and thermocouple set up? I am trying to learn how to post photos but so far no luck. I have elements on the top and the bottom.

Agreed photos are a chore. I have to link from photobucket to get them in posts, but my quota is full.

Here goes...

Oster Extra Large Digital Countertop Convection Oven, Stainless Steel (TSSTTVDGXL-SHP)

Popped off the cover and cut all the heating elements free and wired them to 120v plug to go straight to the PID controller. The only reason I plug the oven in now is to run the fan.

For temperature measurement, I got the Auberins.com - K type thermocouple 4" probe, for Smoker, Oven. I’m super lucky that these guys are in Alpharetta, Ga, so I can run over at lunch for pieces and parts. I drilled a hole about 3/4” BELOW my middle rack and bolted it in. I wanted it in the middle of the oven but not in the way of trays. The probe is 4”, so it’s out as far as I can get it. When the oven gets up to temp, the heating elements are cycled on and off, so they’re never glowing red and that should help with excessive radiant heat.

I drill the base of a matching bullet and tap it onto the tip of another k-type thermocouple and plug that into another PID to monitor bullet temp.

I’ll see if I can resurrect my photo bucket account and add some pictures.

[slide]

I would swap out that plain bullet on the thermocouple for a coated one. In one of the above posts Joe mentioned this.

[HI-TEK]

[QUOTE=RydForLyf;4830350]
Here goes...


I wanted it in the middle of the oven but not in the way of trays. The probe is 4”, so it’s out as far as I can get it. When the oven gets up to temp, the heating elements are cycled on and off, so they’re never glowing red and that should help with excessive radiant heat.

RydForLyf
I can see another problem.
Placing the "probe in Lead" away from load of cast, is only measuring air temperature inside oven. You really need to measure the load temperature not oven air temperature. Just because you have an air temperature, this does not automatically tell you correct load temperatures.
Probe in Lead must be on top of load or buried inside that load. That way you will get much closer understanding of loads true temperature. IR thermometer pointed at load, should also be very useful to determine and provide correlation with temperature readings.

[slide]

I went back and reread your post again. You say you tap a bullet onto another k-type thermocouple. I went to the website and saw the ones you are using. Being they are metal wouldn't the exposed metal of the probe be picking up the oven temp. Somebody smarter than me needs to chime in. the thermocouples I use are encased except for the tip which goes in the bullet. This way you are not measuring the air temp just the bullet temp.

[Burnt Fingers]

I'm getting color off with the acetone test with the Tru Blue. But the coating is not coming off the bullet. Smash test is fine.

If NOE ever sends me my expander plugs and sizing bushing I'll get out and shoot some.

[slide]

I remember when the dark blue and dark green came on the scene guys were getting wipeoff. Joe finally figured it out. He had loaded the color heavy in the dark green and blue that you would get wipeoff. It would not cause any problems when shooting. Maybe that is what is going on with the wipeoff guys are seeing.

[Avenger442]

I'll say this, adding extra catalysis to the mix does not help the little color on the wipe test. I started using the coating when it was a two part liquid color and catalysis so I added some of the catalysis part and it didn't stop the color on the wipe.

This color is just a bit ticklish and is going to require some working with and adjustment for me. I never have been the color guru. Glad to hear yours turned out Slide. May have to have you mail me some more Auburn bullets:bigsmyl2:. I did say thank you for the last ones didn't I?

[kevin c]

I went back and reread your post again. You say you tap a bullet onto another k-type thermocouple. I went to the website and saw the ones you are using. Being they are metal wouldn't the exposed metal of the probe be picking up the oven temp. Somebody smarter than me needs to chime in. the thermocouples I use are encased except for the tip which goes in the bullet. This way you are not measuring the air temp just the bullet temp.
I asked that question and Petander, who uses the metal probe in his sensor bullet, replied, saying just the tip reads temp. No personal experience, though.

[slide]

Thanks kevin c. Avenger you did,when you get ready let me know.

[RydForLyf]

[QUOTE=RydForLyf;4830350]
Here goes...


I wanted it in the middle of the oven but not in the way of trays. The probe is 4”, so it’s out as far as I can get it. When the oven gets up to temp, the heating elements are cycled on and off, so they’re never glowing red and that should help with excessive radiant heat.

RydForLyf
I can see another problem.
Placing the "probe in Lead" away from load of cast, is only measuring air temperature inside oven. You really need to measure the load temperature not oven air temperature. Just because you have an air temperature, this does not automatically tell you correct load temperatures.
Probe in Lead must be on top of load or buried inside that load. That way you will get much closer understanding of loads true temperature. IR thermometer pointed at load, should also be very useful to determine and provide correlation with temperature readings.

Joe,

I have two thermocouples. One is measuring air temp and that is what is used to control air temp in oven. The other is inside a bullet, measuring the temperature of the bullet. I think that is what you are calling load temp. This has been described here as the ATM probe.

I set the oven air temp at 375F and I watch the internal bullet temp to gauge cooking time. All the while, the oven temp remains constant while bullet temp rises as expected towards target 180C.

[RydForLyf]

I asked that question and Petander, who uses the metal probe in his sensor bullet, replied, saying just the tip reads temp. No personal experience, though.

Correct, it’s just the tip. I use the 4” because it has a threaded base so I can mount it through the oven side and fasten it tight. For the bullet probe, it’s 6 or 8” and I just lay it on top of the tray of bullets, so it’s attached bullet is right in the middle of the pile.

[slide]

RydForLyf, how much wipe off are you getting? If it is just a little I wouldn't worry about it. Go back and look at Petander's photos. Depending on the light the tru blu can have a green tint to it. Auburn's blue is the navy blue. Tru blu is not that dark. As far as your problems with the 9mm I don't have one but have heard they can be tough.

[RydForLyf]

RydForLyf, how much wipe off are you getting? If it is just a little I wouldn't worry about it. Go back and look at Petander's photos. Depending on the light the tru blu can have a green tint to it. Auburn's blue is the navy blue. Tru blu is not that dark. As far as your problems with the 9mm I don't have one but have heard they can be tough.

In all honesty, the color is the least of my problems. If I can’t get them to shoot without leading, it doesn’t matter what color they are. I just ordered another mold today, maybe more driving band will help. I’ll also try a softer alloy hoping for a better seal in the bore.

I shot about 200 through my G35 today and the results were much better. Same alloy, same everything. Even using a Lee FCD on the .40. The 9 is just a mystery.

[Ausglock]

Don't go softer alloy!!!! 9mm loves hard alloy...soft will lead worse..
2,6,92 alloy is 15 to 16 BHN. all our 9mm bullets are made with it.

[Stephen Cohen]

I'd like to report something interesting:

I cast a bunch of 615 grain 50 cal bullets and was kinda hurrying up to get them done. So I didn't weigh them but did the math in my head... wrong.

I used 8 ml of coating for 5 lbs of bullets,three times. I noticed they were swimming... but I went on,coatings were good looking... I found out the real weight the day after. My coating was a mix again, 2 ml Tru Blu, 6ml TMG Gold Original. I like these greens I'm getting.

The thing is,smash and wipe and scratch and bite and whatever test I do, this coating has bonded perfectly and is just thicker than usual. Approx. 002". Looks good,elastic,glossy,as you can see. Tough coating.

https://i.postimg.cc/g26z4kfH/IMG-20200208-014028-682.jpg

I sized and loaded some today, 1100 fps, almost 50 k psi, working fine and clean.

https://i.postimg.cc/VkkQhHyL/IMG-20200214-151114-517.jpg

My first coat was absolutely too thick. No problems whatsoever with this mistake.

Petander. They look great.

[RydForLyf]

Don't go softer alloy!!!! 9mm loves hard alloy...soft will lead worse..
2,6,92 alloy is 15 to 16 BHN. all our 9mm bullets are made with it.

Roger that. I’ll look for some known alloy to try. Thanks.

[slide]

RydForLyf, I'm sure you are aware of rotometals. You can buy some known alloy there.

[Papercidal]

RydForLyf, I'm sure you are aware of rotometals. You can buy some known alloy there.

Look at Missouri bullet they sell hardball alloy at a price that it’s almost not worth messing with scrap metal (under2.50a pound) and when I had leading issues I got some to eliminate the mystery alloy I was using from the equation (the coating was already proven).

[Petander]

I melted and fluxed a 50 lbs "pure lead" bar.

Not much to flux,alloy looked good. I cast some chrome shiny RB:s while coating other boolits, then put RB:s in Acid Test... "BAM!".

https://i.postimg.cc/pXX83MJ6/IMG-20200217-162735.jpg

It really is a good practise to test all alloys before coating,no matter how " pure" someone tells you. This coating would have failed in a mysterious,unpredictable way.

Now I just clean them up,add a drop of Hydroden Peroxide to speed up the impurity cleaning. Rinse. Done. Will coat great.

[RydForLyf]

RydForLyf, I'm sure you are aware of rotometals. You can buy some known alloy there.

Yes I am, but they're a long way away from Georgia. I need to see if I can find someone closer to me.

[RydForLyf]

Look at Missouri bullet they sell hardball alloy at a price that it’s almost not worth messing with scrap metal (under2.50a pound) and when I had leading issues I got some to eliminate the mystery alloy I was using from the equation (the coating was already proven).

Thanks, I will give that a try.

[RydForLyf]

I melted and fluxed a 50 lbs "pure lead" bar.

Not much to flux,alloy looked good. I cast some chrome shiny RB:s while coating other boolits, then put RB:s in Acid Test... "BAM!".

https://i.postimg.cc/pXX83MJ6/IMG-20200217-162735.jpg

It really is a good practise to test all alloys before coating,no matter how " pure" someone tells you. This coating would have failed in a mysterious,unpredictable way.

Now I just clean them up,add a drop of Hydroden Peroxide to speed up the impurity cleaning. Rinse. Done. Will coat great.

This is one thing I'm not sure on. My 80% COWW 20% Lino pours shiny, not frosty. I keep my casting pot @660F and cool the mold off on a damp towel instead of timing. I haven't tested mold temp with IR, but may do that.

Regardless of temps and appearance, I can smash the heck out of my HI-TEK coated bullets and it works great. Nothing has ever flaked off or split or done anything other than deform to the new shape. Even though the smash test passed, is there a chance I have a bonding issue? Maybe I need to recover some to see how much coating is left.

[Petander]

Regardless of temps and appearance, I can smash the heck out of my HI-TEK coated bullets and it works great. Nothing has ever flaked off or split or done anything other than deform to the new shape.

You're doing good.

I got Niobium contaminant in my alloy,the contaminant came from Monotype. My WW is clean but I mixed a ton with that mono 15 years ago... very little pure WW left.

Anyway my start with Hi Tek was strange and frustrating (especially to others) until I got my alloy analyzed. Now I just clean it all,everything I cast. Working great.

[RydForLyf]

Did a bunch more testing today and my TruBlu turns green when internal bullet temp hits 340F (171C). I am using 3 different thermocouples. 1 is inserted into a bullet in the middle of the tray. Another is measuring air temp under the tray and the last is measuring air temp above the tray, measuring any radiant heating the bullets would receive. You can see the probed bullet and also thr light brown wire from the other thermocouple in the pictures below.

I tried several times to do 4 bullets with the probed bullet in the middle. Even when oven temp was maintained about 340F (171C) and internal bullet temp was 330F (165.6C) to 335F (168.3C), after about 1 minute, it turned green. Total time between 330 and 335 was 3 minutes. End result is a green bullet that fails the wipe test as expected.

One thing I will do next is to add about 20 pounds of lead ingots to the lower rack to give some thermal mass and more temperature stability. Right now, temperature drops a good bit when the door is opened because there’s just no thermal mass, only hot air. Then the element comes on to replace the lost heat and the bullets are hit with all of the radiant heat.

I’m not sure what else to try and am open to suggestions. Thankfully, it is a green my wife loves. :-)

Starting point.
257000

Blue at 325F internal bullet temp.
256990

Green at 343F internal bullet temp.
256991

Greener at 345F internal bullet temp.
256992

Final product.
256993

The 125 grain bullets were on second coat. The 175 gn TC bullets were first coat.

Here is how I was cooking the 4 individual bullets, with probed bullet in the middle.
256996

Here is what went in and what came out. Note that I never got internal bullet temp to 180C (356F).
256997

[Stephen Cohen]

RydForLyf , It will be a few days before my back yard is dry enough to try the Blue Hi-Tek, So I have not tried it as yet. I note the cast with the probe in it is uncoated, I wonder if this will give you a proper temp reading of what the coated cast are reaching. I have had problems with colour change with other colours in the past and I found drying over night cured it, I don't know why this was and frankly don't care because I cast and coat in the same day and bake the next. Just a thought that may help. Your wife is right it is a nice green. Regards Stephen

[ioon44]

RydForLyf,
If your element is below the lower rack then there is a good chance the 20 lbs of lead will melt.
I added a layer of fire bricks on my lower rack to cover the lower element but if I drop a bullet and it is by the lower element the bullet will melt.

[Petander]

My "radiant heat" is not directly from the elements. They are covered. It's the fan you can see in the back, it has a circular heating element going on/off and when "on" it blows hot,it really is hot. There's a cylindrical cold blower,too.

This is a true convection oven... Anyway,I have learnt to live with this for now. I know my bullet surface temps. I will build a more basic oven with a PID one day.

Mod. TMG Gold with 10% of Candy Apple:

https://i.postimg.cc/FsVm5BzR/IMG-20200218-185613-353.jpg

[Avenger442]

RydForLyf
Sounds like if we could hit 180C in three to four minutes hold it for two minutes and immediately remove they would be blue. And according to Joe 180C bullet temp for two minutes they should pass wipe test. What do you think?

[RydForLyf]

RydForLyf , It will be a few days before my back yard is dry enough to try the Blue Hi-Tek, So I have not tried it as yet. I note the cast with the probe in it is uncoated, I wonder if this will give you a proper temp reading of what the coated cast are reaching. I have had problems with colour change with other colours in the past and I found drying over night cured it, I don't know why this was and frankly don't care because I cast and coat in the same day and bake the next. Just a thought that may help. Your wife is right it is a nice green. Regards Stephen

Stephen, yes, the uncoated bullet will be different. It will respond to temperature faster meaning my coated bullets are cooler than what I am measuring. I don’t think it really makes any difference because I’m watching a blue bullet turn green with internal bullet temperature just under 300 F. This is with oven temp about 365 F (186 C). By the time I get the bullet internal temp to 356 F (180 C) my bullets are already green.

[RydForLyf]

RydForLyf,
If your element is below the lower rack then there is a good chance the 20 lbs of lead will melt.
I added a layer of fire bricks on my lower rack to cover the lower element but if I drop a bullet and it is by the lower element the bullet will melt.

I added 25 pounds of lead today and the oven temps are more stable, bullets are still turning green with internal bullet temp about 300 F, way below “must hit” 356 F.

[RydForLyf]

My "radiant heat" is not directly from the elements. They are covered. It's the fan you can see in the back, it has a circular heating element going on/off and when "on" it blows hot,it really is hot. There's a cylindrical cold blower,too.

This is a true convection oven... Anyway,I have learnt to live with this for now. I know my bullet surface temps. I will build a more basic oven with a PID one day.

Mod. TMG Gold with 10% of Candy Apple:

https://i.postimg.cc/FsVm5BzR/IMG-20200218-185613-353.jpg

Yeah, and maybe some new baskets. Your bullets are awesome, but your basket making skills, not so much. ;-)

[RydForLyf]

RydForLyf
Sounds like if we could hit 180C in three to four minutes hold it for two minutes and immediately remove they would be blue. And according to Joe 180C bullet temp for two minutes they should pass wipe test. What do you think?

I will try it. If that works, then the problem is time, NOT temp. I was cooking today with oven at 350 and started times when internal bullet temp hit 340. I let them cook for 3 minutes and they failed the wipe test as expected.

[RydForLyf]

I will try it. If that works, then the problem is time, NOT temp. I was cooking today with oven at 350 and started times when internal bullet temp hit 340. I let them cook for 3 minutes and they failed the wipe test as expected.

Tried it, but failed.

Two batches one at 200C (392 F) and another at 400 F. Both batches turned green around 300 degrees. Totally green by target temp of 180 C. I think something is wrong with this one batch. It’s just too far off to be missing something.

Any other ideas? I’ll try anything. :-)”

[Ausglock]

Hmmmm... ok... Talk me through your coating mixing process.

You should start with the powder.
20grams of powder to 100Mls of Acetone. It MUST be ACETONE. not thinners or any other rubbish you have lying around.
UN1090 Acetone or MEK...nothing else!!!!!
add a bullet to the mix as a rattler.

Shake like crazy..
let sit for 30 minutes to "react"
Shake like crazy and immediately suck up 6mls of the coating and squirt onto the 2.5kg of bullets to be coated.
swirl around until the bullets are coated for like 15 seconds.
Set aside to "dry"....NOTE : Dry does not mean "to the touch" Dry means all solvent has evaporated.
This is why I pre-warm my trays of bullets before baking....to make sure that the bullets are "Dry".

And then bake..
Does this look EXACTLY like your process?????????

[Tazza]

Hmmmm... ok... Talk me through your coating mixing process.

You should start with the powder.
20grams of powder to 100Mls of Acetone. It MUST be ACETONE. not thinners or any other rubbish you have lying around.
UN1090 Acetone or MEK...nothing else!!!!!
add a bullet to the mix as a rattler.

Shake like crazy..
let sit for 30 minutes to "react"
Shake like crazy and immediately suck up 6mls of the coating and squirt onto the 2.5kg of bullets to be coated.
swirl around until the bullets are coated for like 15 seconds.
Set aside to "dry"....NOTE : Dry does not mean "to the touch" Dry means all solvent has evaporated.
This is why I pre-warm my trays of bullets before baking....to make sure that the bullets are "Dry".

And then bake..
Does this look EXACTLY like your process?????????

Should the initial coat be 120ml of acetone to 20grams of powder? or do you get away with 100ml:20 grams?

[Stephen Cohen]

Tazza, the correct amount of acetone is 100mls, buy many including myself have used 120ml mix for first coat. I think a lot depends on where your doing the coating and the temp your working under. I coat in a small outside shed with a clear sheeting roof so it gets warm in there at times. I found the copper coating was the one I needed extra acetone on first coat, all others were fine as instructions said. Regards Stephen

[Ausglock]

I only use 20gms :100mls for both coats.
Never had an issue.
If it ain't broke, don't fix it.

[RydForLyf]

Hmmmm... ok... Talk me through your coating mixing process.

You should start with the powder.
20grams of powder to 100Mls of Acetone. It MUST be ACETONE. not thinners or any other rubbish you have lying around.
UN1090 Acetone or MEK...nothing else!!!!!
add a bullet to the mix as a rattler.

Shake like crazy..
let sit for 30 minutes to "react"
Shake like crazy and immediately suck up 6mls of the coating and squirt onto the 2.5kg of bullets to be coated.
swirl around until the bullets are coated for like 15 seconds.
Set aside to "dry"....NOTE : Dry does not mean "to the touch" Dry means all solvent has evaporated.
This is why I pre-warm my trays of bullets before baking....to make sure that the bullets are "Dry".

And then bake..
Does this look EXACTLY like your process?????????

EXACTLY! To the “T”. Brand new can of acetone from Home Depot.

I’m working inside a conditioned space, 65 F 45% relative humidity.

Last bullets I did were coated the day before and they were pre-warmed on top of the oven.

I’m stumped.

[HI-TEK]

EXACTLY! To the “T”. Brand new can of acetone from Home Depot.

I’m working inside a conditioned space, 65 F 45% relative humidity.

Last bullets I did were coated the day before and they were pre-warmed on top of the oven.

I’m stumped.

Please make contact with Donnie. He and I discussed your problem. He has another option.

[Tazza]

I only use 20gms :100mls for both coats.
Never had an issue.
If it ain't broke, don't fix it.

Good to know i can do away with the initial watered down coat.

Stephen: I coat in an outside covered area, it's open on the sides, so it doesn't get stupidly hot during our nasty summers like yours would. Yet i sure can work up a sweat when doing a large batch, almost no need to go to the gym that day when doing big batches. Sadly i have a few hundred kgs worth i need to coat then size..... with the wet weather we have been having, i haven't done anything just in case it messed with bonding with the high humidity

[RydForLyf]

Please make contact with Donnie. He and I discussed your problem. He has another option.

I sent Donnie an email about this and gave him all the details about what I have been dealing with. He said he has not tested this specific batch of blue and can look at it in a week or so. He’s great to deal with and even offered me another color to make up for the problem. Hopefully we’ll get to the bottom of this soon.

[Petander]

RydForLyf
Sounds like if we could hit 180C in three to four minutes hold it for two minutes and immediately remove they would be blue. And according to Joe 180C bullet temp for two minutes they should pass wipe test. What do you think?

This is how I did. Well,it takes me five minutes to hit 180 but I'm staying at 180-185 surface temp 2.30 min then.

My probe meter starts beeping @ 170°C inside temp, then my surface is 182°C. I verify with IR every 30 secs after beep,my temps go higher unless I open the door to take measurements. It's like five seconds open every 30 sec. A manual PID. :)

https://i.postimg.cc/ryBs7NWY/IMG-20200122-061025-103.jpg

Like I posted,recovered TruBlu bullets have coating on grooves.

[Burnt Fingers]

I'm getting blue bullets with the Tru Blue from Donnie. If my phone would upload the photo to my backup I'd post the photo.

[slide]

I know what you mean. All I get is upload of file failed.

[HI-TEK]

I know what you mean. All I get is upload of file failed.


I have given up trying to upload any photos. I get answers to the effect, "file too large" or "unable to upload".
I am just no good at this technical stuff of uploading pictures.

[Tazza]

I have given up trying to upload any photos. I get answers to the effect, "file too large" or "unable to upload".
I am just no good at this technical stuff of uploading pictures.

Some times it works, others it doesn't, I can't remember if i tried uploading direct from my pc or if i had them hosted on the internet or not. I generally just email pictures, that way i know they work.

[slide]

Maybe it has something to do with the make over on the site.

[HI-TEK]

Maybe it has something to do with the make over on the site.

slide
I have been trying for years and since I joined this site. Any uploads should work seamlessly if pictures are in a Jpeg mode. From what I was told, the "system" should automatically adjust uploads to allow posting. I don't know how that works. The uploading of pictures and videos, is already established on the system, but using it is a mystery?
May be site controllers can suggest a way to use these facilities.
Thank you in advance....

[Ausglock]

Works for me...
257164
Such a Handsome devil....

[Tazza]

Works for me...
257164
Such a Handsome devil....


RAHHHH

who is that????

:)

[RydForLyf]

Works for me...
257164
Such a Handsome devil....

I don’t have picture problems on the tablet. I remember it being harder years ago.

[RydForLyf]

Back to my blue bullet challenge, Donnie is sending me some from his original batch to see if that makes a difference. If not, I’ll take a dang road trip to Louisiana and get schooled by Donnie himself. :-)

[Ausglock]

I have asked HITEK Joe for a sample of the last TruBlu batch that went to the US so I can do a test on it with Known equipment, settings and Methodology.
Tazza...1000 yard stare...lol

[slide]

I have had four people look at the tru blu bullets. Each one gives a different color. Blue, bluish green,emerald. A lot depends on what light they are in. Everybody needs to remember something. Joe busts his hump trying to make what colors his customers want. According to Ausglock the guy don't ever sleep. As I understand the blue is very hard to get. We all have different reasons why we want a certain color. Don't always happen.

[Tazza]

I for one, appreciate Joe's efforts, he is a great bloke to chat to as well, he has been around a long time in the business and has seen all the chemicals and understands how they work, most of which i could never even pronounce. He finds time to help out on the forum, send out orders, develop new colours, and hardest of all, puts up with Trevor stirring him up every chance he gets :)

Keep up the good work, and try not to pull out any more hair with the issues that one member is currently having, i hope it's something simple causing the issue.

Is there any chance that a majority of the pigment has settled to the bottom of the jar of coating? Yet they were blue before cooking, so it does seem to have been dispersed.

[HI-TEK]

I have asked HITEK Joe for a sample of the last TruBlu batch that went to the US so I can do a test on it with Known equipment, settings and Methodology.
Tazza...1000 yard stare...lol

I am taking some from bulk pack, and sending you a small jar of the US batch.
More samples will also be included, as I have some other colours to try out.

Slide & Tazza
To answer about TRUBLU colour, it is not all that sensitive, as long as it is not over baked and at higher temperatures. The Blue is not what changes, but Resin binder system starts turning Yellow to Tan. So when you mix Yellow with Blue you get green. Depending on just how and type of green the coating gets, will directly be governed by how much combined overbake and temperatures the coating is exposed to, and what resin binder colour ends up finally to alter the Blue colour.

With that single member who is having colour problems with TRUBLU, the pictures I have seen worry me. Colours looked to me to go from Blue to nearly Black. I don't know if it was bad light, or what I saw was accurate.
I believe that Donnie is sending him another sample out of another batch to test. We will see what happens with that one.

[Tazza]

Ah, that makes sense. So in theory, something like old gold that Petander uses is not as susceptible due to being a yellow already, but of course, if you bake the poop out of it, it will get darker with the yellow to tan colour of the over cooked binder. He has shown that is the case and that it still works a;; the same.

I think i'm going to have to hit you up for some Tru Blu, it does look nice

[HI-TEK]

[QUOTE=Tazza;4833300]Ah, that makes sense. So in theory, something like old gold that Petander uses is not as susceptible due to being a yellow already, but of course, if you bake the poop out of it, it will get darker with the yellow to tan colour of the over cooked binder. He has shown that is the case and that it still works a;; the same.

Tazza
You are correct.
All the colours (aside from Blue and Black) all have the yellowing of Resin affect final colours. Some more than others.
Some colours are more transparent and others are less transparent. The final colour effects are not linear or equivalent across all coatings. That is why it is always suggested, that people manufacture, so product works OK, passes all tests, and results are reproducible every time with equipment used, and are happy with final colour..
What makes life very difficult is the huge variations in equipment, and conditions people are exposed to, with trying to produce consistent results.

[Tazza]

That is so very true, especially ovens, they all heat differently. You get to know how long to cook and where to put the projectiles and how many to put in. All i could think is it's a radiant heat issue over heating them, but he has done temperature readings that say that is not the case.

The 122 red i use for one particular person comes out perfect every time. It darkens slightly, but comes out the same every time if i follow the cooking times @ 200c

[RydForLyf]

I have asked HITEK Joe for a sample of the last TruBlu batch that went to the US so I can do a test on it with Known equipment, settings and Methodology.
Tazza...1000 yard stare...lol

Perfect! Thanks.

[RydForLyf]

I am taking some from bulk pack, and sending you a small jar of the US batch.
More samples will also be included, as I have some other colours to try out.

Slide & Tazza
To answer about TRUBLU colour, it is not all that sensitive, as long as it is not over baked and at higher temperatures. The Blue is not what changes, but Resin binder system starts turning Yellow to Tan. So when you mix Yellow with Blue you get green. Depending on just how and type of green the coating gets, will directly be governed by how much combined overbake and temperatures the coating is exposed to, and what resin binder colour ends up finally to alter the Blue colour.

With that single member who is having colour problems with TRUBLU, the pictures I have seen worry me. Colours looked to me to go from Blue to nearly Black. I don't know if it was bad light, or what I saw was accurate.
I believe that Donnie is sending him another sample out of another batch to test. We will see what happens with that one.

Joe,

It’s definitely not black, but dark emerald. I will get some pictures in sunlight tomorrow to eliminate as much artificial lighting color effect as possible.

To everyone else, I am in no way being critical of the product or anyone involved with it. I feel like I am on a R&D team working on a new product and I am taking up the role of a field tester just reporting back findings. I have an Aerospace Engineering degree and now manage software development teams, so I am very detail oriented and thorough. I hope I don’t come across as being negative or disgruntled. I think this HI-TEK is some awesome stuff and I have no complaint and am just trying to get it right.

If the binding carrier turns amber, blue turns green every time. I’m just hoping I can figure out why my process is driving it to amber when others are having more success. The blue is sensitive and if I figure it out, I’m hoping what I’m going through can ultimately help others. Unfortunately, it may turn out that the blue turns out to be too much trouble for Joe and he may ultimately decide it isn’t worth all the hand-holding necessary to sell and support it. I’m hoping my failures can lead to easier successes for others.

It’s all good and I’m hoping for good things.

Sorry for the rambling.

[slide]

Thanks Donnie! I really appreciate it. That is two coats of tru blu. Baked with the a.t.m. Coated bullets under a fan for around 10 minutes. On top of the oven until they hit 110 F. When the t-couple hits 360 F I started a countdown timer from three minutes. I used to use four but decided to try three. Works just as good. Use the same procedure with all the colors. Like I have posted before any of the hi-tek colors will look different under sunlight. The tru blu will take on a greenish tint.With the gold you can see the little sparkles in it. I will look different if I am in the sunlight. When Ausglock posts his results maybe he can shoot the photo outside. Whatever they look like that is what the color is. He is the final word on testing hi tek. RydForLyf,if I came across a little rough I apoligize. Everyone here wants to see you succeed.

[RydForLyf]

Thanks Donnie! I really appreciate it. That is two coats of tru blu. Baked with the a.t.m. Coated bullets under a fan for around 10 minutes. On top of the oven until they hit 110 F. When the t-couple hits 360 F I started a countdown timer from three minutes. I used to use four but decided to try three. Works just as good. Use the same procedure with all the colors. Like I have posted before any of the hi-tek colors will look different under sunlight. The tru blu will take on a greenish tint.With the gold you can see the little sparkles in it. I will look different if I am in the sunlight. When Ausglock posts his results maybe he can shoot the photo outside. Whatever they look like that is what the color is. He is the final word on testing hi tek. RydForLyf,if I came across a little rough I apoligize. Everyone here wants to see you succeed.

No harm, no foul. I’m here to learn and without having a physical sample in-hand for comparison, all we have to go on is pictures and we all know how imperfect that can be.

I think you’d make a good lab partner.

[slide]

Yeah, photos can fool you. If you pm me your address I will send some bullets.

[RydForLyf]

Yeah, photos can fool you. If you pm me your address I will send some bullets.
Thanks! PM sent.

[Avenger442]

Since Donnie is sending me some of his original batch, I will be able to confirm or deny that soon. There may be a trip to Louisiana in my future. If so, I’ll stop by and pick up Avenger442 on the way and we’ll take our ovens to Donnie’s and all experiment together.

Louisianan road trip. Good idea. Been wanting to meet Donnie. And I haven't had a good road trip in a while. Since we live not that far away from each other and are Auburn Alum would enjoy meeting you, too. I may have some scheduling problems but definitely doable if Donnie has the time. Been thinking for a long time how cool it would be to have a get together of the coaters here in the US just to get to know everyone in person and share ideas.

Trevor
Glad to see the man behind the post. Talk Joe into giving you a photo of him to post.

[slide]

I thought he would be taller!!!!!!!!!:drinks:

[slide]

RydForLyf, I got bullets in the mail. I will send tracking # in pm

[RydForLyf]

RydForLyf, I got bullets in the mail. I will send tracking # in pm

Many thanks. It will be good to do some comparisons and post some pics.

[Burnt Fingers]

257199

Here are my blue boolits.

[Ausglock]

I thought he would be taller!!!!!!!!!:drinks:

Short, Fat and Slow..... just like 45ACP.....gets the job done...lol

My TruBlu
https://i.imgur.com/f0kGmR1.jpg
20,000 SWC waiting to be processed.
https://i.imgur.com/SKnhvnG.jpg

[RydForLyf]

Here are two pictures of the same bullets on three different backgrounds

Uncooked first coat, cooked first coat, cooked third coat and cooked two coats. Hopefully the color is better.

257227
257228

Here are my three temperature read outs. 360 is oven controller, 349 is secondary in-air probe 5” above tray. 366 is ATM bullet probe laying on basket. This temp reads a bit high because the entire probe isn’t designed for being placed in the oven like I am using it. A new probe is being sourced so temp won’t read high. Controller is hooked to fastest reading TC to minimize temperature lags.

[RydForLyf]

257199

Here are my blue boolits.

Those look pretty blue. I’d take it.

[Stephen Cohen]

Slide, those blue cast of yours posted above, what mould is that it looks a lot like the 156gr Lyman I modified by grinding out lube grooves. By the way I think they look great. Regards Stephen

[slide]

It is an arsenal mold.358-158KT. Thanks!

[Petander]

20,000 SWC waiting to be processed.

https://i.imgur.com/SKnhvnG.jpg

Hooray! Who makes that NLG SWC mold?

[RydForLyf]

Has anyone tried an air fryer? It should remove all possibilities of radiant heat issues.

[Burnt Fingers]

I'm using a countertop convection oven. No hot spots. Constant air circulation. It works like a champ.

[RydForLyf]

I'm using a countertop convection oven. No hot spots. Constant air circulation. It works like a champ.

What make and model of oven are you using? Mine is essentially a countertop oven with a circulating fan and a convection mode. I’d like to find a 100% convection oven that has no exposed heating element and all cooking is done purely by circulating hot air like an air fryer.

[Ausglock]

Hooray! Who makes that NLG SWC mold?

Accurate Molds. Talk to Tom.

[RydForLyf]

What make and model of oven are you using? Mine is essentially a countertop oven with a circulating fan and a convection mode. I’d like to find a 100% convection oven that has no exposed heating element and all cooking is done purely by circulating hot air like an air fryer.

Thought I’d throw a new oven into the mix and I’ll have to give this one props.

257293
257294
257295

Only $80 at Wmrt, tons of air circulation because it’s an air fryer and not just an oven, fantastic basket and FAST! My samples went from cool basement temps to 300F in just over 2 minutes and hit target temp before 3:00. With a full 5 lbs in the basket, it takes noticeably longer, about 5:30 to hit 356F (180C), but that could be improved by adding some bricks for thermal mass to help recovery.

However, the final results were the same. I baked 4 batches at lower and lower temps, down to 340F target/ bake temps and they still turned the same shade of green.

257297

Donnie’s original batch of TruBlu will be here tomorrow and I will duplicate the tests and see what difference there is.

However, thumbs up for this $80 oven!

Here’s what 5 lbs of 175 gn .40’s look like in the basket.

257298

[Avenger442]

RydForLyf

I asked if anyone had tried this type of oven about a year ago and no one answered. So I thought it was probably a bad idea and didn't buy one. They had them at Ollie's for dirt cheap.

So they work fine and you are getting good results? May be headed back to Ollie's.

[45acp]

Hi.
Been using shake&bake method with great success.
I have a few quick question for you....
1. If i want to try Hi-tek coating,,, can i use the same powder or is there a special powder for hi-tek with acetone?
2. I see that a catalyst is used. What is the purpose for that? And what can i add as a catalyst?
3. Can i skip to use a catalyst?

Thanks!

[Ausglock]

Hi.
Been using shake&bake method with great success.
I have a few quick question for you....
1. If i want to try Hi-tek coating,,, can i use the same powder or is there a special powder for hi-tek with acetone?
2. I see that a catalyst is used. What is the purpose for that? And what can i add as a catalyst?
3. Can i skip to use a catalyst?

Thanks!
The HITEK Powdered coating IS NOT Powdercoat.
HITEK is a bullet coating... Powdercoat is for Lawn furniture.

[45acp]

So,,, as i understand it i need that very special powder to mix with acetone?
Not my regular powder that i use for shake&bake?

[Ausglock]

You are correct.
In the early days, a few tried to mix Acetone with Powdercoat and it was not pretty.
The original HITEK was a liquid coating that used a catalyst.
But now the HITEK powder has the catalyst built into the powder, so just add Acetone.

[45acp]

Thanks!

[HI-TEK]

So,,, as i understand it i need that very special powder to mix with acetone?
Not my regular powder that i use for shake&bake?

=45acp
Can I suggest, you try and get a copy of HI-TEK coating instructions before you dive in.
HI-TEK is nothing like Powder coating.
The only similarity between Powder coating and HI-TEK, is that they are both powders. That is where any comparison stops.

[RydForLyf]

RydForLyf

I asked if anyone had tried this type of oven about a year ago and no one answered. So I thought it was probably a bad idea and didn't buy one. They had them at Ollie's for dirt cheap.

So they work fine and you are getting good results? May be headed back to Ollie's.

With the emphasis on convection instead of radiant heat, it is perfect for this. So many of the countertop convection ovens, like my Oster, are just countertop ovens that they added a small fan so they can call it convection. Don’t get me wrong, it does work, but the air circulation is nothing like an air fryer.

I really liked the fact that this one came with a nice basket too.

[45acp]

=45acp
Can I suggest, you try and get a copy of HI-TEK coating instructions before you dive in.
HI-TEK is nothing like Powder coating.
The only similarity between Powder coating and HI-TEK, is that they are both powders. That is where any comparison stops.

Thanks. will do.
Is there a way to get powder inside eu?

[Burnt Fingers]

What make and model of oven are you using? Mine is essentially a countertop oven with a circulating fan and a convection mode. I’d like to find a 100% convection oven that has no exposed heating element and all cooking is done purely by circulating hot air like an air fryer.

I'll check and post.

[Ausglock]

Thanks. will do.
Is there a way to get powder inside eu?

Talk to Petander. He is in Finland and could point you in the right direction.

[dikman]

Regarding air fryers, my wife recently bought a Philips Air Fryer, and funnily enough my first thought was baking boolits!:lol:
Obviously, I'm not about to use a $600 cooker for that, but the concept intrigued me. Unfortunately I haven't seen anything like RydforLyf's unit here in Oz (let alone at such a low price) but I don't see why it shouldn't work.

[slide]

As long as it will reach and hold temp it should work.

[RydForLyf]

Well, today I received my package from Donnie with the original TruBlu that he tested.

https://i.imgur.com/wb1zAa8.jpg

There is a visible difference between the two, so I was hopeful.

I was very methodical and systematic in mixing up a half batch.

https://i.imgur.com/yQ60HIe.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/qVMZuDZ.jpg

Got the oven going and coated 1.25 lb of bullets with 1/4 tsp of mix. Normal batch is 5 lb and 1 tsp.

https://i.Imgur.com/1CJaTSO.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/CkDjTiv.jpg

Warmed them on top after air drying on the fan.

https://i.imgur.com/06i7ifN.jpg

First coat maintained some blue color.

https://i.imgur.com/ON7bvbq.jpg

Second coat. Each row was a separate batch of 4.

https://i.imgur.com/OTQxHFF.jpg

For my setup, oven temp is PID controlled at 194C (381F). I started a 3 minute timer when internal bullet temp hit 180C (356F). This is borderline low and the bullets didn’t always pass wipe test.

Outdoor natural lighting

https://i.imgur.com/vtbqqEh.jpg

Indoor LED lighting. 9mm TC were 2 coats of what I bought from Donnie. Larger TC’s are today’s with Donnie’s original sample batch.

https://i.imgur.com/qfTC5WE.jpg

All in all, I can’t see much difference between the batch Donnie got in on Feb 6 and the original sample batch. The powder does have a different look, but appears to perform the same. I REALLY wanted the stuff I got today to be a rich deep blue, but since the base polymer darkens when curing, blue is difficult. One last thing I’m going to do is send Donnie some of my coated bullets for judging. If a bluer bullet is possible, I’ll road trip to Louisiana to learn how to make it.

Thanks bunches to Donnie for sending me some of his original powder to test and compare and thanks to Joe and Trevor for all of their help and comments.

This Hi-Tek is some cool stuff and I’ll be adding more colors to my inventory for different bullets. If anyone has a trick for keeping the blue bluer, please pass them along so I can try your method.

[Ausglock]

Is it just me, or do people that do not use the metric system, have hardons for teaspoons and all other weird units of measure??
FFS...people.....How can you get repeatable results when measuring 1/4 teaspoons??????
10ml Syringes are cheap and readily available. They offer repeatable measures...
How about getting with the program???????

[RydForLyf]

Is it just me, or do people that do not use the metric system, have hardons for teaspoons and all other weird units of measure??
FFS...people.....How can you get repeatable results when measuring 1/4 teaspoons??????
10ml Syringes are cheap and readily available. They offer repeatable measures...
How about getting with the program???????

I’ll get a proper syringe and retest.

[Ausglock]

My day job is Quality Control manager of a large Hardwood Flooring Manufacturer.
Machining tolerances, Moisture content tolerances, etc etc etc.
repeatability is my bag.
Call me OCD, but teaspoons and accuracy don't go together.
You are trying to get results that have been produced by others, in various parts of the world.
Surely you would want to use a standard unit of measure that is universal world wide?
But....if you like spoons....be my guest.... go your hardest.
I'm down and on the side....
https://i.imgur.com/Y9SWzo2.jpg

[45acp]

Talk to Petander. He is in Finland and could point you in the right direction.

Thanks!

[HI-TEK]

Is it just me, or do people that do not use the metric system, have hardons for teaspoons and all other weird units of measure??
FFS...people.....How can you get repeatable results when measuring 1/4 teaspoons??????
10ml Syringes are cheap and readily available. They offer repeatable measures...
How about getting with the program???????

I became curious about Teaspoons,
I went to our drawer with cutlery. There was about 40 teaspoons in tray.
I took them out and examined them
Out of the range we had, I found 6 teaspoons with different sizes and different shapes and capacity.
Rough measurements were starting with smallest spoon holding about 2.5 mls, the next was 3.0 mls, the next was 3.5 mls, then 4.0 mls, next was 4.5 mls, and the largest was 4.6mls capacity. I share your concerns about volumes used to measure, as each spoon will measure different liquid volume. Unless user calibrates their own spoon, who knows what volume is being used/measured out with coating mixture. If what ever is used and is calibrated may work, if user is careful with using same volumes each time. I would find it almost impossible to measure 1/4 teaspoon lots. Variability would be quite a range and challenge and may produce quite a range with final finishes.
With syringes, for people making small batches, I would suggest a 1ml syringe as a measure device.
I saw a commercial caster use a household liquid measure that held 30 mls. He dipped this measure into coating mixture, and used same measure to stir up the brew. Then he poured the 30 mls onto about 1000 projectiles. It worked just fine and was reproducible.

[RydForLyf]

I became curious about Teaspoons,
I went to our drawer with cutlery. There was about 40 teaspoons in tray.
I took them out and examined them
Out of the range we had, I found 6 teaspoons with different sizes and different shapes and capacity.
Rough measurements were starting with smallest spoon holding about 2.5 mls, the next was 3.0 mls, the next was 3.5 mls, then 4.0 mls, next was 4.5 mls, and the largest was 4.6mls capacity. I share your concerns about volumes used to measure, as each spoon will measure different liquid volume. Unless user calibrates their own spoon, who knows what volume is being used/measured out with coating mixture. If what ever is used and is calibrated may work, if user is careful with using same volumes each time. I would find it almost impossible to measure 1/4 teaspoon lots. Variability would be quite a range and challenge and may produce quite a range with final finishes.
With syringes, for people making small batches, I would suggest a 1ml syringe as a measure device.
I saw a commercial caster use a household liquid measure that held 30 mls. He dipped this measure into coating mixture, and used same measure to stir up the brew. Then he poured the 30 mls onto about 1000 projectiles. It worked just fine and was reproducible.

Now I understand!!! When you chaps down under hear us yanks say teaspoon, you think of those oblong things in your kitchen drawer that you actually use to stir your tea. Nothing could be further from the truth.

In imperial measure, teaspoon and tablespoon are legit units of measure. Here is a set of measuring spoons, with 1/4 tsp, 1/2 tsp, 1 tsp and 1 tbs. A tablespoon is 3 teaspoons and is just perfect for 15 pounds of bullets should you want to shake 15 lbs at a time.

257392

An actual teaspoon holds about 4.9 ml, so a true 1/4 tsp, the one I used, has a tad under 1.25 ml, or if we’re talking water, 1.25 gm. I just tested my 1/4 tsp and weighed it on my powder scale and got between 1.22 and 1.26 gm of water, or 1.22 to 1.26 ml of volume.

[Tazza]

I had in my head a regular tea spoon, not a REAL tea spoon used for baking, those are the same world wide, so those results are repeatable.

[RydForLyf]

I had in my head a regular tea spoon, not a REAL tea spoon used for baking, those are the same world wide, so those results are repeatable.

We really do need a “thumbs up” option here.

[Tazza]

We really do need a “thumbs up” option here.

So true, some posts i see and think yep, good advise, but no way to state that other than a quote with a reply.

[slide]

There are sure some differences in communication sometimes. Some things we have access to here in the U.S. is not available in Australia. RydForLyf, can you tell me how you post photos? I have been trying without success for a while now. I have a camera that has the sbd card in in it. I take the card and put it in a card reader that plugs into the computer. I follow the directions but always get a pop up saying the upload failed. Any ideas? Somehow the other night I managed to send a photo by e mail to Donnie and he posted it for me.

[Tazza]

There are sure some differences in communication sometimes. Some things we have access to here in the U.S. is not available in Australia. RydForLyf, can you tell me how you post photos? I have been trying without success for a while now. I have a camera that has the sbd card in in it. I take the card and put it in a card reader that plugs into the computer. I follow the directions but always get a pop up saying the upload failed. Any ideas? Somehow the other night I managed to send a photo by e mail to Donnie and he posted it for me.

I think your issue might be due to the file being too big? if they are too large, the site says na uh! email isn't as fussy with file sizes.

Yeah, you guys get all the fun stuff, i'd live to play with an AR, but not allowed to have them. We can jump through lots of hoops IF we are a primary producer with a pest problem. So you need a farm, a LARGE farm being over run with pigs or kangaroos then they might, just might allow you to buy one, it must only be used at that property too.

[slide]

I am afraid we may be heading the same way as you guys. I have never seen a bigger collection of idiot politicans in my life. I really don't know where they come from!!!!!!! I have no idea how to reduce the size on photos. I'll keep trying.

[Tazza]

I guess it's good for me, i never got to shoot a semi-auto rifle, so i can't miss it. I got into shooting after the semi-auto rifle bans came into play, pretty much 20+ years on, people are still bitter about it.

I was into pistol shooting when the hand gun bans came in, not banned, but restricted. No more high cap mags, anything over .38 or 9mm was big and scary. I handed in my 8 month old .45 and bought a .38 super ipsc gun, it shot flatter, was more accurate, i'd feel more lethal, yet totally legal. A .45 was slow moving, but made slightly bigger holes, the public is safer now.

Hopefully they can't take them away from you, i'm all for registration, keep tabs on them, but don't take them away when they are in law abiding hands. You will never have criminals abiding by the laws, so what's the point?

[Ausglock]

I'm still Bitter.
Colt AR-15 HBAR
SLR
Valmet M76
Remy 870
Stainless Mini14.
I will be bitter til the day I die.

May Jackboort Johhny die in a fire and nobody around to hose him down.

I use imgur to host my pictures. there is no file size limit.
imgur is easy to use.

Rydforlyf...Why didn't you say measuring spoons??????
Bloody teaspoons are for stirring bloody tea.

You northern hemisphere types really need to learn the lingo.

A poofteenth is a micky whisker short of a nat's pube.

[slide]

I just set up an account on imgur. I'll give it a go.

[HI-TEK]

[QUOTE=RydForLyf;4835837]Now I understand!!! When you chaps down under hear us yanks say teaspoon, you think of those oblong things in your kitchen drawer that you actually use to stir your tea. Nothing could be further from the truth.


You are correct, it is simply a difference with description of an item.
Here, these spoons you show, are called "Measuring Spoons" not teaspoons. That is where confusion had occurred.
I my reference to a commercial caster using such measure he actually used (30mls) such a measuring spoon, (looks like a small egg cup with a handle) which was attached to a piece of wooden dowel. Worked quite well.

[Tazza]

I still curse little Johnny, he is and always will be a turd in my book. I'm not into shooting as much as i should be, i do love pistol shooting, but never gotten into rifles. The only long arms i have is a 22lr and a .177/.22 beeman air gun.

One day i may actually grow up and get a big boy gun or two.

[RydForLyf]

There are sure some differences in communication sometimes. Some things we have access to here in the U.S. is not available in Australia. RydForLyf, can you tell me how you post photos? I have been trying without success for a while now. I have a camera that has the sbd card in in it. I take the card and put it in a card reader that plugs into the computer. I follow the directions but always get a pop up saying the upload failed. Any ideas? Somehow the other night I managed to send a photo by e mail to Donnie and he posted it for me.

Slide, I’m posting on an iPad, so it’s most likely different than a laptop or desktop. Sorry.

[RydForLyf]

Rydforlyf...Why didn't you say measuring spoons??????
Bloody teaspoons are for stirring bloody tea.

You northern hemisphere types really need to learn the lingo.

A poofteenth is a micky whisker short of a nat's pube.

We got the lingo. A BCH is thicker than a RCH. Blonde is the thinnest.

I could have said measuring spoons, but I was just telling you how much, a 1/4 tsp (1.25 ml), not how I was measuring it.

[Stephen Cohen]

Tazza, I used to believe in registration but quickly learned it was the first step to confiscation, as we all found out. I could live with a life time licence till one showed they were unfit. Registration has never stopped, cured or prevented a crime, the law abiding will always do the right thing but criminals will not. I wonder how many licence holders realise they are on Police crim track because they are licenced. Maybe some day you will have to have a go at my 458 win mag it will help you appreciate your Beeman haha. Regards Stephen

[Tazza]

Tazza, I used to believe in registration but quickly learned it was the first step to confiscation, as we all found out. I could live with a life time licence till one showed they were unfit. Registration has never stopped, cured or prevented a crime, the law abiding will always do the right thing but criminals will not. I wonder how many licence holders realise they are on Police crim track because they are licenced. Maybe some day you will have to have a go at my 458 win mag it will help you appreciate your Beeman haha. Regards Stephen

That is a good point, and they do use that against us already. I have been told that if a cop runs your license or rego, it shows "possible firearms on board" not sure if that's a good or bad thing, as i hope they don't do a RBT with guns drawn on me!

I bet that big boy hurts, a mad mate has a 300WM, that hurts enough after a few shots, but holy cow, it hits hard. We did a testing day for 3 gun a few months back, 6" plate at 200m got the snot beat out of it with the 300wm, never thought it had that much energy, but it flung that plate like it was nothing.

[ioon44]

[QUOTE=RydForLyf;4835837]Now I understand!!! When you chaps down under hear us yanks say teaspoon, you think of those oblong things in your kitchen drawer that you actually use to stir your tea. Nothing could be further from the truth.


You are correct, it is simply a difference with description of an item.
Here, these spoons you show, are called "Measuring Spoons" not teaspoons. That is where confusion had occurred.
I my reference to a commercial caster using such measure he actually used (30mls) such a measuring spoon, (looks like a small egg cup with a handle) which was attached to a piece of wooden dowel. Worked quite well.

The "Measuring Spoon" set I bought has a 1 1/2 teaspoon measure which is 7 ml and I use it with 5 1/2 lbs of bullets in a 5 qt bucket, repeatable and always good results. I also use dish soap bottles with a snap on lid with a spout to mix and store the Hi-Tek, the bottles are air tight so the mix is good for months.

[ioon44]

That is a good point, and they do use that against us already. I have been told that if a cop runs your license or rego, it shows "possible firearms on board" not sure if that's a good or bad thing, as i hope they don't do a RBT with guns drawn on me!

I bet that big boy hurts, a mad mate has a 300WM, that hurts enough after a few shots, but holy cow, it hits hard. We did a testing day for 3 gun a few months back, 6" plate at 200m got the snot beat out of it with the 300wm, never thought it had that much energy, but it flung that plate like it was nothing.

The last time I shot my 300 WM I did not enjoy it, I guess that comes with getting older any way I traded it in on a Walther PPQ SF a lot more fun to shoot and I can use Hi-Tek with it.

[Avenger442]

We are supposed to measure this stuff. I've been just scooping some out with my fingers and dumping a little acetone in with it. :bigsmyl2:.

You guys on the metric system instead of the King's measurements have always been a bit snobbish. And I am talking about you Trevor. You and your tea with the little finger lifted when drinking. :roll: We prefer coffee with a full grip on the mug:kidding:

[Petander]

So true, some posts i see and think yep, good advise, but no way to state that other than a quote with a reply.

https://i.postimg.cc/qBSyBYDS/IMG-20200224-201139-333.jpg

[Ausglock]

We are supposed to measure this stuff. I've been just scooping some out with my fingers and dumping a little acetone in with it. :bigsmyl2:.

You guys on the metric system instead of the King's measurements have always been a bit snobbish. And I am talking about you Trevor. You and your tea with the little finger lifted when drinking. :roll: We prefer coffee with a full grip on the mug:kidding:

Oh... you mean like this Coffee Mug....
https://i.imgur.com/KhLKu9M.jpg

[Stephen Cohen]

We are supposed to measure this stuff. I've been just scooping some out with my fingers and dumping a little acetone in with it. :bigsmyl2:.

You guys on the metric system instead of the King's measurements have always been a bit snobbish. And I am talking about you Trevor. You and your tea with the little finger lifted when drinking. :roll: We prefer coffee with a full grip on the mug:kidding:

There is another possible misunderstanding, A mug is an Australian way of saying some one is a fool. I guess if you drink coffee while holding a fool that's ok as we Australians normally knock a mug down them buy him a beer. Its all cultural I guess. Regards Stephen

[RydForLyf]

Slide’s bullets arrived in the mail yesterday and I can say the color is identical to what I’m getting. Here are some pictures.

https://i.imgur.com/vAkw4d3.jpg

They look very dark on the above picture, so I put them on a blue shop towel. The camera adjusted the blue out and now they look greener than they really are. However, my 2-coat bullets are the same shade as Slide's bullets. I'm guessing that his are 3-coat bullets because the color is darker.
https://i.imgur.com/LUCVHwn.jpg

In order to add some clarity, I decided to use the universal color standard of Crayola crayons. The cooked bullets are closest to Pine Green in my box of 120 crayons.
https://i.imgur.com/DwtxtQK.jpg

The uncooked 2nd coat matches best to Turquoise Blue.
https://i.imgur.com/FV9QOfz.jpg

So, I am willing to continuing my experiments if anyone has any tips or tricks that have worked for you. Otherwise, I’ll just continue coating and loading them as they are.

I’m sure Joe will continue his R&D efforts and maybe one day he’ll find a base polymer that stays crystal clear and we will have every color in the rainbow available to use.

By the way, Candy Apple Red makes awecome FSU Garnet and Gold bullets.
https://i.imgur.com/RdqyHDo.jpg

[slide]

RydForLyf, mine are two coats. That is the nature of the beast with the blue. Your c.a.r. looks good!

[RydForLyf]

RydForLyf, mine are two coats.

Cool. Maybe it's my measuring spoons. Ha Ha Ha HA

[slide]

:bigsmyl2:

[Avenger442]

Oh... you mean like this Coffee Mug....
https://i.imgur.com/KhLKu9M.jpg


OK brother.
Just wanted to see if you could drink the vinegar as well as dish it out.:bigsmyl2:

[Avenger442]

There is another possible misunderstanding, A mug is an Australian way of saying some one is a fool. I guess if you drink coffee while holding a fool that's ok as we Australians normally knock a mug down them buy him a beer. Its all cultural I guess. Regards Stephen

Colloquial wording and speech from country to country, and here in the US state to state, often interferes with understanding what the other person is saying. In some countries they use first what would be the last word here first. Instead of my name being John Smith it would be Smith John. And local terms and pronunciations get some of us in trouble.

Reminds me of a story. When in school I managed a Baskin Robbins ice cream store. We were right across the street from the local free student theater. On Friday and Saturday nights when the show was over we had so many customers we had trouble keeping up. I was working the counter one of those nights and had an obviously oriental woman walk up to the counter. Because of he ethnicity I was worried that I might not be able to communicate with her. So I started of in a very slow distinct manner to asked her what she would have. She looked at me with a bit of anger on her face and told me, in no uncertain terms, she was American and from California and had no trouble understanding English. Needless to say my face was about the color of our raspberry ice.
:hijack:

[nelsonted1]

We are supposed to measure this stuff. I've been just scooping some out with my fingers and dumping a little acetone in with it. :bigsmyl2:.

You guys on the metric system instead of the King's measurements have always been a bit snobbish. And I am talking about you Trevor. You and your tea with the little finger lifted when drinking. :roll: We prefer coffee with a full grip on the mug:kidding:

We also drink our Jim Beam and Southern Comfort gripping the mug-handle with all the fingers same as coffee otherwise we get confused. ....They do. I don't drink

[Avenger442]

I quit consuming alcohol as a beverage about fourty years ago. Got sick drinking Southern and Sevenup once so could never quite stomach it again. But I liked my Jack Daniels Black neat.

I’m going to get back on topic. Going by the store today to pick up fresh acetone. Going to give Tru Blue another try. But even if I can’t get it to stay blue it’s still Hi Tek. I’ve shot a little over 200 rounds coated with the Bronze 500 in the Ruger 357 over the past couple of weeks. After a light cleaning barrel looks polished. All of the colors will do what they were invented by Joe to do. Keep the lead out. And that is why I use it anyway. Right?

[dikman]

RydforLyf, you've got a box of crayons?:lol:

Regarding Candy Apple Red, initially I was disappointed because my expectations were for a brighter red, but once I loaded some (in nice shiny cases) it started growing on me. Now I think the boolits look cool.

[RydForLyf]

RydforLyf, you've got a box of crayons?:lol:

Regarding Candy Apple Red, initially I was disappointed because my expectations were for a brighter red, but once I loaded some (in nice shiny cases) it started growing on me. Now I think the boolits look cool.

Agreed! Too bad we just go blow them up after working so hard to get them looking so nice.

[Tazza]

Agreed! Too bad we just go blow them up after working so hard to get them looking so nice.

But we have fun making them go SPLAT when hitting a steel plate.

[Gremlin460]

On the occasions you actually hit something Tazza... just sayin..

[Stephen Cohen]

Every one is a comedian this morning. Regards Stephen

[Tazza]

On the occasions you actually hit something Tazza... just sayin..

Now that's just plain mean.... I'm not saying it's not true, but mean all the same.

[Avenger442]

What would we do if we couldn't poke each other with the sharp stick every now and then and still be friends. You guys are sumthin (southern US speech).

[Ausglock]

As they say"if you can't stand the heat, stay out of the kitchen".....

[Stephen Cohen]

As one gets older you realise there are very few misunderstandings that can't be sorted out with a smile a joke or handshake. Regards Stephen

[Petander]

As one gets older you realise there are very few misunderstandings that can't be sorted out with a smile a joke or handshake. Regards Stephen

Or with a punch. :)

[Ausglock]

257517

[Stephen Cohen]

You guys are incorrigible, but bloody funny. Regards Stephen

[RydForLyf]

Ok, back on subject. It’s picture time.

Candy Apple Red, Kryptonite Green and TruBlu.

Love this stuff!

https://i.imgur.com/EtVTTIk.jpg

Happy coating!

[Avenger442]

Ok, back on subject. It’s picture time.

Candy Apple Red, Kryptonite Green and TruBlu.

Love this stuff!

257676

Happy coating!

Look good to me.

[slide]

Five days and nobody has posted anything. I don't know what is going on. If this continues the thread will be deleted from inactivity. Seems to me that everybody has taken their marbles and gone to different sides of the playground. I came here to learn and maybe help. When I first started with the hi-tek it was a challenge but over time with trial and error and the help of a lot of people I finally got the hang of it. I realize that sometimes tempers can flair and words are spoken that hurt feelings. It happens to all of us. If whatever the problem is can't be resolved then that may be the end of hi-tek in the U.S. That is going to leave a lot of people up the creek without a paddle. One of the main problems is the beginners. They all live in different parts of the world with different climates and different ovens. This is not bragging but I have come up with five tips that will almost insure success on the first time. One of them has already been posted on the thread. Why should I post the others if this is the way it is going to be from here on out. Vaya Con Dios Amigos

[Tazza]

I figure, if an idiot like me can get it to work every time, anyone can!

It's really not rocket science, follow the instructions and it will work every time.

The only "issue" i had was mixed hi-tek that hadn't been used for a month or two would settle out of solution. Even shaking it up would not allow the clump to re-mix. Joe advised me that it's normal and i should try and only mix up enough to do each batch (plus a little extra to be sure)

[RydForLyf]

Five days and nobody has posted anything. I don't know what is going on. If this continues the thread will be deleted from inactivity. Seems to me that everybody has taken their marbles and gone to different sides of the playground. I came here to learn and maybe help. When I first started with the hi-tek it was a challenge but over time with trial and error and the help of a lot of people I finally got the hang of it. I realize that sometimes tempers can flair and words are spoken that hurt feelings. It happens to all of us. If whatever the problem is can't be resolved then that may be the end of hi-tek in the U.S. That is going to leave a lot of people up the creek without a paddle. One of the main problems is the beginners. They all live in different parts of the world with different climates and different ovens. This is not bragging but I have come up with five tips that will almost insure success on the first time. One of them has already been posted on the thread. Why should I post the others if this is the way it is going to be from here on out. Vaya Con Dios Amigos

Slide,

I was missing the regular posting too. Until I found HI-TEK, I hadn’t been doing much on the site, but since then, have been spending lots of time here.

Right now, I’m trying to find my favorite load for 9mm HI-TEK bullets. I just got in a bunch of different powders today, so I’ll be pretty busy working on that for awhile.

https://i.imgur.com/TQwcOC9.jpg

If it will ever stop raining here in Georgia, I’ll be able to get out and shoot. Right now, I’m setting up the chrono under the deck to keep everything dry. Sure gets loud shooting under there.

Right now, I’ve got about 50 pounds of coated rounds and my latest ones sure look nicer than my earlier ones.

My biggest tip for a beginner, use a smaller container. The solution stays wet longer and there’s less chance of shaking too long and get rough bullets. I started with a 3 gallon paint bucket and they dried too fast when shaking. I now use a 3lb nut jar from Costco and my bullets are much slicker and shinier.

Thanks again for the TruBlu bullets. Maybe we rode that horse into the ground and are just taking a break to recharge.

[Ausglock]

Slide....mate... stop ya sookin and start casting. :grin:
Universal is made in OZ by ADI and sold here as AP-70.
brilliant 9mm powder.
I run 3.8gn with a 135 RN for about 130 power factor.
Autocomp and HS6 (Win 540) are reserved for major loads in 38 Supercomp for the open gun.

WSF is good with heavy bullets in 9mm
Never heard of Win 244, haven't seem CFE or Accurate down here.

[Tazza]

You say universal is AP70, wonder what they are gonna do when that runs out, as they decided to can 30,50,70 and 100 for the new stuff....

[RydForLyf]

Slide....mate... stop ya sookin and start casting. :grin:
Universal is made in OZ by ADI and sold here as AP-70.
brilliant 9mm powder.
I run 3.8gn with a 135 RN for about 130 power factor.
Autocomp and HS6 (Win 540) are reserved for major loads in 38 Supercomp for the open gun.

WSF is good with heavy bullets in 9mm
Never heard of Win 244, haven't seem CFE or Accurate down here.

I’ll give that Universal recipe a run.

[HI-TEK]

I figure, if an idiot like me can get it to work every time, anyone can!

It's really not rocket science, follow the instructions and it will work every time.

The only "issue" i had was mixed hi-tek that hadn't been used for a month or two would settle out of solution. Even shaking it up would not allow the clump to re-mix. Joe advised me that it's normal and i should try and only mix up enough to do each batch (plus a little extra to be sure)

Tazza,
The pre-mixed stuff should be usable for more than a day or so.
What is advisable is, that if you make a batch that you wont use within a few days, simply keep in a tightly sealed container, out of sunlight and as cool as possible.
As you know, we have had a severe hot weather, so I was not surprised that the pre-mixed material started to go off.
Ausglock told me, that he has used mixtures up to a month or even more, but he keeps his excess mixtures in a fridge. It should be OK to use after that time being stored in a fridge.
I don't recommend coating mixtures to be stored in a fridge used for food preservation.
If people don't have extra fridge in a garage/workshop, as you said, making up quantities to use up in short period may be best solution.

[Tazza]

You are right, we have had a lot of hot, humid weather. It doesn't go off in a few days, it's in the order of weeks for me.

I store mine in diggers acetone bottles out of sunlight in the shed that is insulated, and as cool as possible short of living in the fridge.

[HI-TEK]

[QUOTE=slide;4843350]Five days and nobody has posted anything. I don't know what is going on. If this continues the thread that may be the end of hi-tek in the U.S.


Slide,
May be, people have nothing to post.
It has happened before, where for periods, no posts were made.
With supply to US, this will continue as it is not affected by blog matters.

[Ausglock]

When I do a mix, I normally mix 3 to 4 containers of coating. Each 300mls. They will live in the fridge (that also contains Coke, Orange juice, Zooper Doopers and Apple juice) for up to 6 months. When I need one, I just take it out, shake it and start using it. even when still cold, direct from the fridge. Never been an issue. sure, the contents settle out, but never clump or lumpy.

[Burnt Fingers]

I keep my mixed Hi-Tek in the fridge. I've got stuff over a year old that still works just fine.

[Avenger442]

I had some of the Gun Metal or it might have been the Black coating sitting out for about six months in a dish soap bottle. It was sealed pretty well but stored during one summer when temps were, at times, 80F in the basement. The acetone evaporated and it turned into a solid lump. Joe probably remembers this because I told him I was going to try and get it back into solution. I broke up the lump and put it in another bottle with some acetone. I didn't, but probably should have, grind it up. After a couple of months it was partially dissolved. After about six months it still was not completely dissolved so I threw it out.

That being said, I have used coating that was mixed six months before just to see if it was OK. It was darker but same performance after baking. No leading. If it will mix up when you shake it it can be used. And I have put months old mixed coating in with another color to use. I haven't looked lately but I had some of the yellow test batch which turns beige, mixed over a year ago, still able to be shaken and used. I'll probably throw it out along with some others that have been mixed for some time.

With as little as it cost to use Hi Tek there is really no reason to use a batch several months old. Just mix up another batch. Especially if you want the color the same. I usually don't coat more than 10 pounds of projectiles at a time sometimes only 5 pounds so I don't need large amounts mixed. Joe and Donnie have done all of us a favor by keeping the product very reasonably priced. Under $30 buys most of us more than we will use for a long time. They gotta be making their money off of volume and other products. We appreciate you guys.

258023 This is the Bronze 500 in an older mix. Probably 2 months old. Mix was a little thick so coating is not as smooth as new mix and the color is a little off. It's on range lead for plinking and didn't care much about how it looked. Shoots great.

258024 A little closer and you can see what I mean. A little rough.

Slide;
Is that long enough to keep us on the blog :bigsmyl2:

[dverna]

I have not posted on this thread for a very long time. When Hi-Tek first came out, I saw little value in it. It offered no advantages as I lube and size in one operation on a Star. Made no sense to have two operations and reduce throughput.

What has impressed me is seeing Hi-Tek used by some of the CBA competitors and winning matches. PC has not, as far as I know, won a CBA match. So this stuff if "good".

I likely will never use it, but if I did not have a Star, it would be one of the better options. The Aussies were ahead of the curve on this.

If I have time this year, I am going to try BLL for unsized pistol bullets and will keep Hi-Tek as an option for sure. Would love not to size pistol bullets as I get older and more prone to pain/fatigue. I have 30k lubed bullets so in no hurry. Nice to have options though.

[dikman]

Here ya go Slide, another post.:grin: I have some mixes that have been sitting around for a while so thought it would be a good idea to use them up. I have quite a lot of various calibre round balls for my muzzleloaders so I'll coat them, one coat only. Elsewhere in another post (in the PC (cough cough) section) someone mentioned coating them as a means to reduce possible lead contamination from handling them, seems like a good idea and a way to use up old coating as the finish is not critical on these balls.

And it's an excuse to do some more coating.

[Avenger442]

I have not posted on this thread for a very long time. When Hi-Tek first came out, I saw little value in it. It offered no advantages as I lube and size in one operation on a Star. Made no sense to have two operations and reduce throughput.

What has impressed me is seeing Hi-Tek used by some of the CBA competitors and winning matches. PC has not, as far as I know, won a CBA match. So this stuff if "good".

I likely will never use it, but if I did not have a Star, it would be one of the better options. The Aussies were ahead of the curve on this.

If I have time this year, I am going to try BLL for unsized pistol bullets and will keep Hi-Tek as an option for sure. Would love not to size pistol bullets as I get older and more prone to pain/fatigue. I have 30k lubed bullets so in no hurry. Nice to have options though.

Do you run rifle bullets through your Star? If so, how fast can you push them with the lube before leading the barrel?

[Stephen Cohen]

I have not posted on this thread for a very long time. When Hi-Tek first came out, I saw little value in it. It offered no advantages as I lube and size in one operation on a Star. Made no sense to have two operations and reduce throughput.

What has impressed me is seeing Hi-Tek used by some of the CBA competitors and winning matches. PC has not, as far as I know, won a CBA match. So this stuff if "good".

I likely will never use it, but if I did not have a Star, it would be one of the better options. The Aussies were ahead of the curve on this.

If I have time this year, I am going to try BLL for unsized pistol bullets and will keep Hi-Tek as an option for sure. Would love not to size pistol bullets as I get older and more prone to pain/fatigue. I have 30k lubed bullets so in no hurry. Nice to have options though.

If you do try Hi-Tek you will do as we all have done, sell the Star and join the fold. I have seen some very accurate loads with cast lubed bullets, but non have matched Hi-Tek for accuracy and velocity especially rifle loads, your experience may differ but I doubt it. Regards Stephen

[Stephen Cohen]

Slide I for one have been away checking a new deer property, a man has to have a use for all those cast we coat. The red deer rut is soon to start and I intend to fill my freezer. regards Stephen

[Burnt Fingers]

I use a Star to size my Hi-Tek boolits. It works like a champ.

[RydForLyf]

If you do try Hi-Tek you will do as we all have done, sell the Star and join the fold. I have seen some very accurate loads with cast lubed bullets, but non have matched Hi-Tek for accuracy and velocity especially rifle loads, your experience may differ but I doubt it. Regards Stephen

Stephen,

I don't understand why you'd sell the Star. I've kept mine and now use it for a sizing only. With the Magma feeder, it's simple to blast through them, MUCH easier than sizing AND lubing. Now, it just takes a short stroke without having to pump the lube in.

What are you using to size now?

[ioon44]

I use my Star for sizing my Hi-Tek coated bullets, I hope I never have to go back to obsolete wax type lubes.

[RydForLyf]

I use my Star for sizing my Hi-Tek coated bullets, I hope I never have to go back to obsolete wax type lubes.

I love being able to size everything that is coated and not have to incorporate the sizing and lubing into the loading process. I always used a softer lube so I couldn't make a bunch and put them up. Man I sure don't miss lube in my dies!!!

[Avenger442]

Sounds like I've not been at this as long as some of you. I've been handloading for about six years casting and coating a little over five years. While I do have some wax/grease lubes stored up I've never used anything but Hi Tek. Was about to buy a lube sizer when I found Hi Tek. Glad I missed the expense.

[Ausglock]

I still have a Lyman 450 Lubesizer with a stash of White Label Lube sticks. But it has not seen the light of day for years.
But...... you never know...

[dverna]

Do you run rifle bullets through your Star? If so, how fast can you push them with the lube before leading the barrel?

I do not shoot cast bullets at hunting velocities. My hunting rifles are two .308's and a .300 Mag and I only use jacketed bullets as they are more accurate and provide an effective range past what a cast bullet can give me. I likely use less than 20 bullets a year - one on each deer, and a few to check the scopes. No incentive to use cast bullets for hunting. The .223/5.56 rifle use jacketed bullets as I have a source for 55 gr SP Hornady's for $420/6000.

Many reports with lubed bullets going to 2700 fps without leading. Most rifle shooters continue to use lube in competition but velocities are typically lower. Like I said Hi-Tek is making inroads so it works and works well.

For me, cast bullets are for pistol shooting and I do a fair amount of it. Low velocity stuff with nothing over 1100 fps. Will be looking at a higher velocity (1500-1600 fps) cast .357 carbine load this year. Any decent lube should be fine with it. I stocked up on White Label products.

Hi-Tek is another tool in the tool box. I like things simple, effective and repeatable. Hi-Tek meets those criteria. It will provide a huge advantage for me, if I find a pistol bullet that does not require sizing. BLL is even easier if it works. Do not get me wrong...the Star is a good machine. I have used one for over 40 years, bit old age makes running that handle less attractive.

[Avenger442]

dverna
I was just wondering if you used cast in your rifles. I've pushed Hi Tek coated .308 beyond 2700 fps but it's not my most accurate load. My .223 Hi Tek has been pushed over 3000 fps with no leading. Again not the most accurate load. My best load so far in cast coated .308 is around 2600 fps four bullets in under 3/4" with the fifth making it a one inch group at 100 yards. This load is typically a 1 1/2" load at 100 yards. I've been meaning to take it to the Talledega CMP range and test it out to 600 yards. Just haven't made it yet.

258142 Best

258143 Typical

[Papercidal]

If you do try Hi-Tek you will do as we all have done, sell the Star and join the fold. I have seen some very accurate loads with cast lubed bullets, but non have matched Hi-Tek for accuracy and velocity especially rifle loads, your experience may differ but I doubt it. Regards Stephen

No sense selling the star I just took the lube arm off of my phelps add a bullet feeder and there is about no other manual sizing setup that is faster.

[RydForLyf]

No sense selling the star I just took the lube arm off of my phelps add a bullet feeder and there is about no other manual sizing setup that is faster.

Yep, what I done.

[Papercidal]

Sounds like I've not been at this as long as some of you. I've been handloading for about six years casting and coating a little over five years. While I do have some wax/grease lubes stored up I've never used anything but Hi Tek. Was about to buy a lube sizer when I found Hi Tek. Glad I missed the expense.

I think I may have ordered the coating before I even bought my first mold and pot.I’ve never used traditional lube but I came across a phelps star clone for nearly nothing and with noe bushings or lathesmith dies it is much easier to size with than a upside down press with the Lee dies. I added a bullet feeder and a point down conversion for my collator and am extremely happy with it.

[Stephen Cohen]

Well slide wanted more feed back and my comment about selling the Star certainly got some. I was pulling your chain a little RydForLyf. If I had a Star I would also use it to size Hi-Tek coated bullets. Avenger442 what load you using in your 308 load mentioned, the 308 is one calibre I have not done much with as yet though I have 5 moulds in that calibre. I do get sub MOA from my 458wm and my 357 Max is just on MOA at 2400fps but I have dropped that load down to 2200fps with the Lee 158gr R/F nose. I intend to take a Red deer with my 357 max in next couple weeks. Regards Stephen

[dansedgli]

Do you guys with the star sizers wear out the steel link between the handle and the sizing ram?

Mine barely last 5000 bullets before its worn an oval hole or broken the pin holding it together.

[Ausglock]

Bloody hard on the gear, Dan...

[HI-TEK]

Do you guys with the star sizers wear out the steel link between the handle and the sizing ram?

Mine barely last 5000 bullets before its worn an oval hole or broken the pin holding it together.

Dan
I don't know for sure, but this wear could be directly due to huge forces required to size alloys. If that is the reason for wear, using something like Aqualube on finished coated cast should reduce significantly the loads required, so in theory, those links should last longer.
Aqualube can also be used to dry film lubricate all materials to reduce friction and wear.

[RydForLyf]

I was pulling your chain a little RydForLyf. If I had a Star I would also use it to size Hi-Tek coated bullets.

Yank away. :grin:

I’m glad you cleared it up.

[RydForLyf]

Do you guys with the star sizers wear out the steel link between the handle and the sizing ram?

Mine barely last 5000 bullets before its worn an oval hole or broken the pin holding it together.

Dinosaurs died to support the cause of lubrication. Please don’t let their demise be in vain. :wink:

[dansedgli]

I have always used lube with it. I'm at around 4500 projectiles through the latest pin and that piece and it has started rounding out already.

The top hole in the piece that joins the lever and ram rounds out and the pin breaks.

I bought 3 spares of each last time I bought things from magma.

[ioon44]

I have never heard of that problem, my Star is a pre zip code San Diego Ca and it was well used when I got it and have used it a lot and never have replaced any thing on it.

I have been getting really good results with Accurate 35-130-c bullets cast with 6-2-92 and two coats of Gold 1035. I was working up a load with Sport Pistol and several loads were showing an ES of 8 and a lot in the 10 to 15 range. This was out of a new Walther PPQ SF, the load leaves the poly barrel really clean.
















a

[dverna]

dverna
I was just wondering if you used cast in your rifles. I've pushed Hi Tek coated .308 beyond 2700 fps but it's not my most accurate load. My .223 Hi Tek has been pushed over 3000 fps with no leading. Again not the most accurate load. My best load so far in cast coated .308 is around 2600 fps four bullets in under 3/4" with the fifth making it a one inch group at 100 yards. This load is typically a 1 1/2" load at 100 yards. I've been meaning to take it to the Talledega CMP range and test it out to 600 yards. Just haven't made it yet.

258142 Best

258143 Typical

That is fine performance!!!! My cast bullet efforts with the .308 were dismal, and I gave up on it. Figured I had a couple of .30/30's if I needed to stay in the 2000 fps range to get accuracy with a hunting alloy. I think I am a very poor caster and pay the price when it comes to cast rifle bullets. My 148 gr H&G's would group 50 shots under 3 1/2" at 50 yards (10 ring NRA) from a Ransom rest out of a M52 S&W but I want at least 1.5 MOA out of a bolt gun. My jacketed loads are sub MOA...below is a group with my cheap Compass in .308 using the 165 gr GameKing. The cheap thing is amazing...shoots better than my M70.

258155

Admire you guys that get accuracy with cast!! I took the easy road, and bought a lifetime supply (500) of the Sierras for $150.

Will be working on a 125 yard coyote load for the .357 carbines this year using cast. It would be nice to have one load for plinking and varmint control. Hoping the fatter and slower bullet will make it easier for me get a decent cast load. (158 gr at 1500-1600 fps)

Again, nice work on your part.

[TonyN]

I'm on my second linkage on my star. Its rounded also but still works. I just move the bolt up a little more when it does wear down. The springs at the end of the bullet feeder is what I break a lot. Magma said they special make them so I guess that size spring isnt available to buy local at a hard wear store? Iv put tons of bullets threw my star.

[TonyN]

Is the Tru Blu supposed to be a Aqua/blue green color? I figured it would be Dark blue not a blend of green/blue color. Is a dark blue in the mix to be maid?

[Avenger442]

Avenger442 what load you using in your 308 load mentioned, the 308 is one calibre I have not done much with as yet though I have 5 moulds in that calibre. I do get sub MOA from my 458wm and my 357 Max is just on MOA at 2400fps but I have dropped that load down to 2200fps with the Lee 158gr R/F nose. I intend to take a Red deer with my 357 max in next couple weeks. Regards Stephen

That was a once fired Remington case (cases were weight matched), CCI primer, Lee 309-160-R 14 BHN bullet (bullets also weight matched), three coats of 1035 gold one coat then sized then two more and coating was much smoother than my recent photos, 41.5 grains of H4895.

I've been trying all kinds of things to get it down to a typical 1" group instead of 1 1/2". I wanted it down to 1" to go to the CMP range. Changed to match Hornady cases. Tried prepping the cases by flash hole de-burring and primer pocket uniforming. Neck turning was, for me, a waste of time and effort. Or maybe I just didn't quite get the hang of it. Note on neck turning be sure and get all the grease of and out of the cases. Three different powders. One suggested by an ex FBI sniper. They were all either a little more than 1 1/2" or there about. Changed BHN on lead up to 17BHN. Nothing outside of 12-14 helps. Been thinking about volume matching the cases. And have some Federal match primers to try. The gun is capable of doing 1" and under with Federal Gold Match ammo.

Biggest challenge is keeping consistent in what I am doing for each test.

dverna
Yeah accuracy is a bug and once it bites you get a little obsessive. And I don't even shoot competition. I've sworn off for a while and started loading up stock for my handguns. Several hundred rounds in .45, ,38 special and .357 mag. I'm not as obsessed with accuracy in my handgun rounds but they still shoot well enough.

Tony
Glad to see you back.

[Ausglock]

I'm on my second linkage on my star. Its rounded also but still works. I just move the bolt up a little more when it does wear down. The springs at the end of the bullet feeder is what I break a lot. Magma said they special make them so I guess that size spring isnt available to buy local at a hard wear store? Iv put tons of bullets threw my star.

I use the Star bullet feeder to feed my auto sizer. It had done over 500,000 bullets and still going strong.

[kevin c]

Is the Tru Blu supposed to be a Aqua/blue green color? I figured it would be Dark blue not a blend of green/blue color. Is a dark blue in the mix to be maid?

If you read back just a few pages in this thread, folks have posted their experiences with this new color. The consensus seems to be that care is needed in the time and temp of the baking. Too much of either turns the polymer progressively more yellow, and yellow and blue mixed together make green. The coating still functions perfectly well, it's just the color that is off.

I haven't gotten to experiment with mine yet, but I expect to have to bake at lower temps for less time than I do now, may need to change the protocol depending on the season (affects the starting temp of the casts), may need a K probed bullet on the tray for fine tuning, and may need to reduce the number of coats (I haven't read it yet, but I'm wondering if baking a second coat will over bake the first to the point that the overall color goes green).

I'd tell someone new to HiTek to maybe start like I did: with a nonmetallic color like Black Cherry which is easier to get right. Once the training wheels are off a metallic like Old Gold is what I'd try next. I'd then try TruBlu as a challenging last step, not a frustrating first one.

[dikman]

I just cast about 400 .375 round balls to use with my slingshot. I decided to give them a coat of Hi-Tek to act as a barrier when handling the lead balls. I gave them a coat of Candy Apple Red and left them to dry in the sun for a few hours. The resultant coating, when dry, is sufficient to do what I want without baking them as it doesn't come off when handled. Pretty handy stuff.:grin:

[dansedgli]

I'm on my second linkage on my star. Its rounded also but still works. I just move the bolt up a little more when it does wear down. The springs at the end of the bullet feeder is what I break a lot. Magma said they special make them so I guess that size spring isnt available to buy local at a hard wear store? Iv put tons of bullets threw my star.

I just broke my spring an hour ago. :(

The local hardware and auto stores don't have the right size.

Looks like I'm up for another $70 postage to get a $5 spring. I hate this thing.

[HI-TEK]

[QUOTE=kevin c;4845745]If you read back just a few pages in this thread, folks have posted their experiences with this new color. The consensus seems to be that care is needed in the time and temp of the baking. Too much of either turns the polymer progressively more yellow, and yellow and blue mixed together make green.Right On the mark) The coating still functions perfectly well, it's just the color that is off.

kevin c and Tony N

All the HI-TEK coatings require, what ever load is placed into an oven, is that coated alloy load, gets to 180C and stays there, or close enough, for another 2 minutes.

Users have to work out, after setting required temperature on the oven, how long it takes that specific load to get to 180C in their oven.
Then record that bake time at those settings and load.
Then continue to bake for about 2 more minutes after load reaches 180C.

If your oven is set at 200C, and thermostats can swing plus or minus 30C from set point, this could easily over heat load well above the 180C very quickly, as load will continue to heat up well over 180C in less than 1 minute. So what this means is, in simple terms, after reaching load to 180C, and oven is set to 200C, it is very possible to get coated cast to 200C plus after it has reached 180C and in much less time than 2 minutes.
That is why colour changes occur.

Unfortunately, it is not possible to provide advice on every oven being used.

With temperatures, it is not oven temperature that is critical, but the load temperature governs how long it takes to get a specific load to 180C by a specific oven.

Each oven produces different heating controls and results. User must determine ovens ability to raise a specific load to required temperature, and not exceed heating past required times after the load reaches correct cure conditions at 180C..

Some ovens cannot control accurately enough the set temperatures and these can easily allow over shoot of load temperatures.

Using higher temperature settings, simply gets the load there to the magic 180C much more quickly, but the downside is, that you can quickly over shoot load temperatures well over to what is required.

With most colours, colour change is not as much noticeable with over bake, but with some colours, overbake is more noticeable.
All of these details were published on this blog many times. It is simply quality control to obtain reproducible colour results that are acceptable to user.

[HI-TEK]

I just broke my spring an hour ago. :(

The local hardware and auto stores don't have the right size.

Looks like I'm up for another $70 postage to get a $5 spring. I hate this thing.

I found that in Bunnings they have springs. Is it compression spring or extension spring?
What is specifications/measurements of your spring? (picture may be also useful)
I had a spring maker make new ones locally for a Car rear brake that was no longer available.
This would be much cheaper than importing it. You can get a few made after they do their measurements.

[dansedgli]

I found that in Bunnings they have springs. Is it compression spring or extension spring?
What is specifications/measurements of your spring? (picture may be also useful)
I had a spring maker make new ones locally for a Car rear brake that was no longer available.
This would be much cheaper than importing it. You can get a few made after they do their measurements.

It's an extension spring. Smaller than 1 inch but pretty strong. The ones from bunnings are a tiny bit long but don't have the strength to pull the bar back.

I'll take some measurements and do some googling through the week. There should be some available somewhere locally.

[HI-TEK]

It's an extension spring. Smaller than 1 inch but pretty strong. The ones from bunnings are a tiny bit long but don't have the strength to pull the bar back.

I'll take some measurements and do some googling through the week. There should be some available somewhere locally.

There are many spring makers, and, possibly locally nearby. If you ask, they to make it a little stronger, they simply use thicker wire to coil up the spring.
It is a case of shopping around, hopefully near you, you may find someone who can do it.
For my spring, I have had quotes from numerous makers for my spring from $30.00 each to $75.00 each, so they do know how to skin customers. It was a two stage tension spring, and a bit more tricky to make. I eventually got 6 made at $15.00 each. (I have a lifetime of spare springs for this old car.)
If it is a straight forwards spring, it should not be hard to make. Most do have springs in stock, so it may be possible that they can supply something that will work.

I found Bell Springs in Victoria. tel:+61394646611

https://www.bellsprings.com.au/

https://www.bellsprings.com.au/category/tension-springs

The have a list of springs that show length, diameter and other specifications. They are about AUSD $5 to about $8 for ones similar to your diameter. You can make contact with them and give them details of your spring. Hope they can supply ex stock. Good spring hunting......

[dansedgli]

Thanks Joe!

[Ausglock]

Thanks Joe!

Dan. attach another spring from the base bolt of the Alloy bar that has the pivot point, up to the arm the lifter pushes against. I have this on my feeder. works fine. See Vid
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=co6h-iTHjP0

Pause the vid. you can see the extra spring...

[RydForLyf]

Dan. attach another spring from the base bolt of the Alloy bar that has the pivot point, up to the arm the lifter pushes against. I have this on my feeder. works fine. See Vid
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=co6h-iTHjP0

Pause the vid. you can see the extra spring...

Nice get up ya got there.

[RydForLyf]

Had some Tru Blu mixed, so I decided to use it up on a bunch of uncoated that I had. Did about 20 kilos (45 pounds for us yanks) but forgot about last batch for a good 30 minutes or so. Well, it’s a pretty green, not distasteful at all. :wink:

Normal results on left and 35 minute bake on right.
https://i.imgur.com/DgQQgT3.jpg

[dansedgli]

Dan. attach another spring from the base bolt of the Alloy bar that has the pivot point, up to the arm the lifter pushes against. I have this on my feeder. works fine. See Vid
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=co6h-iTHjP0

Pause the vid. you can see the extra spring...

Thanks, ill give it a go.

[TonyN]

I believe mine is the same as Donny as he sent me a picture of his bullets he baked and another guy I know who bought some. When I hold them in the sun they look like a aqua blue. If I'll try to post a picture on here if I get lucky enouph to get it to work.
I use a thermocouple and lay it on top of the bullets and time it till the temp reaches 360F then add 4 min.

[Ausglock]

wow.... so much over thinking on the TRUBLU.
I treat them the same as all the other colours I bake.
coat
dry
warm
preheat oven.
set temp 195.
add 2 trays to oven
turn trays 90deg at 1/2 time
take out after full time.
bullets are blu.
Simples...

[Ausglock]

Dan.
Closer look at the spring.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m0H6vR2nNtQ

[dansedgli]

Dan.
Closer look at the spring.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m0H6vR2nNtQ

Thanks, I really need to get my **** together and build something like that.

[TonyN]

Rydforlyft mine look exactly the same as on the left.

[dansedgli]

I screwed a long screw into my bench behind the Magma transfer bar and now my bunnings spring is the right size. :drinks:

[HI-TEK]

I screwed a long screw into my bench behind the Magma transfer bar and now my bunnings spring is the right size. :drinks:

Good practical solution. Now you can use locally made, ex stock spring.
Did you have a look at the Melbourne spring makers stock list?

[dansedgli]

Good practical solution. Now you can use locally made, ex stock spring.
Did you have a look at the Melbourne spring makers stock list?

Nope. Maybe if this option doesnt hold up but I think it will.

[RydForLyf]

Rydforlyft mine look exactly the same as on the left.

Yeah, so do MOST of mine. :grin: I went off into the reloading room and got busy making up some testing loads and TOTALLY forgot the batch was still cooking. I think total cook time was about 35 minutes. OOPS! No worries, they'll shoot fine and at speed, no one can tell they're a bit off color.

[dikman]

None of my guns have complained about what colour they're shooting.[smilie=1:

[RydForLyf]

None of my guns have complained about what colour they're shooting.[smilie=1:

Red ones are faster. :grin:

[dikman]

That's good to know, but which ones are more accurate?;)

[kevin c]

Question for Joe:

Does HiTek adhere to Zamak/zinc?

I'm exploring alternatives to lead alloys for cast boolits.

[Tazza]

Question for Joe:

Does HiTek adhere to Zamak/zinc?

I'm exploring alternatives to lead alloys for cast boolits.

There are issues with bonding to zinc, as it oxidizes, it bubbles the hi-tek up

[HI-TEK]

Question for Joe:

Does HiTek adhere to Zamak/zinc?

I'm exploring alternatives to lead alloys for cast boolits.

Some time ago Petander posted some details on Lead/Bismuth alloys.
Petander, also posted test results using Bismuth cast alloy. I cant recall details.
I remember that HI-TEK had bonded well to the Bismuth alloy, whatever composition was, as Petander posted pictures of recovered coated cast.
One of the things I am working on is to develop a coating that will bond well to other more reactive alloys. Things like Zinc, Aluminium and Magnesium containing alloys are problematic to coat.

[kevin c]

Thanks, Tazza and Joe.

[RydForLyf]

That's good to know, but which ones are more accurate?;)

“Control, control, you must learn control!” – Yoda

[Stephen Cohen]

That's good to know, but which ones are more accurate?;)

The ones that hit where you aim. Regards Stephen

[Avenger442]

1035 Gold is more accurate and faster:-D

How is COVID 19 in Australia?

[Ausglock]

Ha... people are loosing their minds. Panic buying toilet paper of all things.
These clowns don't realize that I have guns and ammo....I will take their paper If I need some......by force at the end of a gun is needed...

It seems the Corona virus is only effecting the stupid, politically correct, semi-famous and snowflakes. the rest of us are fine.

[Petander]

1035 Gold is more accurate and faster:-D

How is COVID 19 in Australia?

Green is good,too. This actually has 75% gold.

About Covid 19:

I'm all set for a Walking Dead -scenario, I can cast and reload in the woods.

https://i.postimg.cc/HkNkNsCK/IMG-20200311-235710-805.jpg

[dikman]

I see you have your guard cat/attack cat close by!:grin:
Yeah, it's been crazy here. I went to the doctor yesterday for my 3-monthly checkup/scripts and the first thing she said when I walked in the door was "what do you think of all the toilet paper buying?":lol:. She can't understand the stupidity of people. Me, I think it's time to stockpile primers, not paper!

[Petander]

Hell yeah,the toilet paper hysteria is here,too. Unbelievable.

[Avenger442]

My understanding is it doesn’t give you diarrhea. So why toilet paper? Our state is one of the few that has not had a case diagnosed. But the toilet paper binge buy is on here. I say three months and it’s all over with here. China and Korea are already seeing a decline in the number of new cases.

[kevin c]

I don't get the TP thing either.

Went to a local chain grocery market to buy some dairy products and found paper towels, hand sanitizer and a lot of food items like bread and cereal sold out. The line to the registers literally snaked all around the interior of the store. The staff that they have been crazy busy for over a week. Local news reports the same all over the greater Bay Area.

There is also increased buying of firearms. Reports are that purchases of firearms and ammo have tripled. This includes a lot of first time buyers who apparently commented to the FFL that they "don't like guns, but, just in case...".

[RydForLyf]

It's pretty simple. People are concerned about having to quarantine for weeks and are concerned they may not have enough, so they're rushing out to get enough for several months. They're not buying food for months, just toilet paper. That's the weird part.

[Avenger442]

I'm not what I would call a prepper but think it is common since to have the ability to take care of yourself and immediate family if we have a disaster. We are prepared for probably a year without utilities and shutdown of our ability to buy things in stores. We would not live as we do now but disasters will always cause some amount of change in our daily lives for certain lengths of time.

But I will have to admit we do not have a years worth of toilet paper. Guess, if it happens, we are back to what my Grandfather had in his out house news paper (probably all they are good for anyway). Wife is going to be really upset. She has gotten accustomed to her Northern toilet paper.

[Ausglock]

When we were kids, we used Dok leaves.
Dok plants grew almost everywhere/ they have wide flat leaves and perfect for wiping your butt.
But..... they also grow right next to Scotch thistles... so you had to be careful where you shat....lol

[DDriller]

Hell yeah,the toilet paper hysteria is here,too. Unbelievable.
From what I was told this morning is the tubes for the toilet paper and paper towels all come from China. The people I talked to said they were expecting a 2-4 month delay for product with all the quarantines and embargos.

[Tazza]

People are going mad up here too....

I get the idea that people think if they are locked up for 2 weeks they may not have enough poo paper, but come on, who craps that much to need to buy a trolley full? a 6 pack generally lasts 2 of us about a month..... who needs 100 rolls for 2 weeks??? if they need that much, they need get checked by a bum doctor.

[Avenger442]

Quilted Northern, Angle Soft, and a couple of other brands of toilet paper are manufactured by Georgia Pacific. Their home base is in Atlanta Georgia. That is about an hour and a half from my hometown. When I was in Jr. High School they gave tours of one of their plants. I believe that all paper tubes for toilet and paper towels are made in house.

We don't really have a shortage at the manufacturer level. It's just some people don't have common sense or are trying to make a buck on the resale. My wife was telling me about someone buying several cases of hand sanitizer at about $3 a bottle and reselling it on Amazon for $80 a bottle. That, by law, is considered price gouging here so Amazon was forced to shut him down. Now he is stuck with several cases of hand sanitizer. Or selling it at a much reduced price. That story was off of Facebook which is not necessarily known as the purveyor of fact and truth but more like a gossip site. There are some interesting lies told there. By the way, just plain iso alcohol does the same thing as far as function as hand sanitizer. If you need the hand softening just add some aloe or coconut oil or some other skin softener.

Back to casting and coating. The bullets I coat for my 45-70 are .459 diameter. Last ones were coated with the Black Hi Tek. Which I can recommend as working as it should. No lead in the barrel and two to three inch groups at 100 yards out of the Marlin. But has anyone cast a .457 bullet for their 45-70? A guy was advertising a .457 mold on Ebay as 45-70. Is that diameter for another round other than 45-70?

[Stephen Cohen]

Avenger442, I don't own a 45/70 but I do cast for a few who do own them and all say that my .460 sized cast in several weights are more accurate than those sized at 458, so I would say that the .457 diameter may well not give best accuracy. My moulds used to cast at .457 and .458 so I gave them an extra coat of Hi-Tek to bring them up to .459 and they shot much better so I lapped out the moulds to drop at .460 which is the sweet spot for my 458 wm and those guys who have the 45/70. It is not hard to lap a mould or just give cast another coat. Regards Stephen

[Avenger442]

Thanks Stephen.
I have two molds for the 45-70. Both cast at .459. I have put alu. duct tape in joints and added another bit to diameter. And I think you are correct in saying .460 shoots better.

[wlkjr]

Here in the deep south we don't need no stinking new fashion toilet paper. We just use corn cobs or Sears catalogs if there are any left.

[HI-TEK]

Here in the deep south we don't need no stinking new fashion toilet paper. We just use corn cobs or Sears catalogs if there are any left.

I can remember (Am I showing my age here)?, here people having to use old Newspapers, cut into strips, and hung in toilet on a string. There was fancy toilet Paper, as it was much too expensive for working class. People are so market influenced/affected now, that they cannot even think about any thing else.
The only benefit with modern toilet paper is, that it is made mostly from recycled stuff, and,.... where it came from is not disclosed.
It is probably better not to know where it came from.

[Petander]

Interesting times we all are living in now.

Finland got practically closed yesterday,our strategy is to try to slow it down. I already practically quarantined wife & myself a week ago. It's hard to learn new routines,how not to touch anything,how to use gloves,shoes etc for proper protection,all that... Get mail or a shopping bag,can't touch it the same day...

A big nerve test for the Whole World,this is. Stay safe out there,everyone.

[M.A.D]

Finally finished two custom carbide sizing dies, one for 9mm/38 super and another for 38/357 , Just need to make the bodies to house them... Next, As soon as lee deliver my Automatic Processing Press, I'm going to make a Automation kit for bullet sizing and case sizing/decapping.. Mostly because I'm lazy... 258760

[Ausglock]

Finally finished two custom carbide sizing dies, one for 9mm/38 super and another for 38/357 , Just need to make the bodies to house them... Next, As soon as lee deliver my Automatic Processing Press, I'm going to make a Automation kit for bullet sizing and case sizing/decapping.. Mostly because I'm lazy... 258760

My APP is in the mail too.... When I get it, I too am looking at automating it....Great minds........

[Stephen Cohen]

I can remember (Am I showing my age here)?, here people having to use old Newspapers, cut into strips, and hung in toilet on a string. There was fancy toilet Paper, as it was much too expensive for working class. People are so market influenced/affected now, that they cannot even think about any thing else.
The only benefit with modern toilet paper is, that it is made mostly from recycled stuff, and,.... where it came from is not disclosed.
It is probably better not to know where it came from.

Yes they were the days Joe, you could read the bum wipe before you used it, in fact that pretty much was all a lot of it was good for. I remember the day my young brothers dropped one of my young brothers into a deep pit toilet, he dropped the dolphin torch into the big black hole and the brothers told him they would hold him by the feet and lower him to get the torch. I don't need to tell you how that ended. I swear I can still smell it on him 45yrs later. Regards Stephen

[M.A.D]

My APP is in the mail too.... When I get it, I too am looking at automating it....Great minds........

Lee told me mine wont be posted till end of April.. give me time to cast and coat 10,000 9mm . Ove been looking at videos on how it works, Si i have a pretty good idea on how im going to do it, But need it so i can gauge the torque needed to size and de cap the brass....

[Tazza]

Finally finished two custom carbide sizing dies, one for 9mm/38 super and another for 38/357 , Just need to make the bodies to house them... Next, As soon as lee deliver my Automatic Processing Press, I'm going to make a Automation kit for bullet sizing and case sizing/decapping.. Mostly because I'm lazy... 258760

Those look awesome, they will never wear out! they did a good job polishing the inside of the die, will do a great job sizing.

[HI-TEK]

Finally finished two custom carbide sizing dies, one for 9mm/38 super and another for 38/357 , Just need to make the bodies to house them... Next, As soon as lee deliver my Automatic Processing Press, I'm going to make a Automation kit for bullet sizing and case sizing/decapping.. Mostly because I'm lazy... 258760

They look great.
I had US guys asking about Carbide sizing dies, and costs. What is possibility of having them made to order, and what costs. Please PM me with details.

[Ausglock]

Just got confirmation from Titan that my APP has shipped. woohoo

[dikman]

That press looks interesting, and in itself not that expensive - except that our $ is now heading south at a rapid rate of knots!
Maybe once all this insanity is over........

[Ausglock]

So... Who is Self Isolating in their shed to make bullets??
The Corona Virus is causing me to load every empty case I can find.

Loaded 500 9mm 115gn JHP yesterday. These are my TP defense loads... Ain't nobody getting my Bog rolls...

[dikman]

Just bought another couple of boxes of small pistol primers, I figure that once the current supplies are gone the next shipment (whenever it comes) are going to be a lot more expensive. I can always cast and coat some more and I've got a bit of range scrap to smelt, and as long as they don't close my local pistol range I'll dig out some more scrap.
Plus load a few more rounds, just 'cos I can.:grin:

And I can always do a bit of leather work (same shed).

[Ausglock]

I bought 80,000 SP Primers last year, so good to go.