simple Hi-Tek coating

[Ausglock]

The only time I smash and wipe seriously is when I'm testing new coatings.
For all my other casting/coating, I wipe and smash 1 per 1000.
I feel that I have consistent casting, coating, baking, mixing, temp, time, drying etc etc and don't need to over smash/wipe.

[Love Life]

^^That is how I roll. A quick squeeze of the bug juice bottle is what goes on my bullets before I do the ol' swirl and dump.

I coat thicker than Btroj and Gunoil do. Pretty bullets shoot at least 25% better than not pretty bullets.

[btroj]

Is that what 4 out of 5 dentists who shoot coated bullets say?

[Gateway Bullets]

btroj "Just did around 3 K 125 gr 9mm bullets and used about 30 ml of a 5/1/7 mix."

That is thin, 1 ml per 100. I have been using 2 ml per 100.
How thick is your second coat?

Wen I coat my bullets, I use just under 1ml per pound. I don't worry about how many I have just the weight. So I tumble 30 pounds of bullets and use jut under 30ml/cc of coating. Second coat I use just over 1ml/cc per pound.

With the mix of my coating I use 5-1-7ish in the black and for the red copper I use a 5-1-10ish. It's been cold here and the diluted coating mix places a very thin first coat and has been working very well.

The first problem in coating with Hi-Tek is to make sure you have your coated bullets DRY! If they are not dry it will never cure or adhere to the bullet. I run three fans over my bullets on the drying table after they come out of the tumbler.

Second problem is curing. You need to have your dry bullets cooked at a proper temp and time. I load one of my ovens with 3 trays (30-35 pounds each) and let it cure at 400 for 11-12 minutes. I may go a little shorter if Im running 380s or a minute longer if I'm running 45-230s.

It is all trial and error (and some frustration) until you find what works for you. Keep notes and adjust your recipe until you find what works for you and your oven.

On of the biggest things that I have found is the coating likes warm bullets and AIR MOVEMENT!!!
For me, it seems the more warm air I can pump over the bullets the better the coating works for me.

[Love Life]

I sat down today and looked at a year's worth of targets, recovered bullets, and notes concerning HT coating. I see a quite noticeable accuracy edge, ease of finding a load, and better handling of the coating with polygonal rifling. Recovered bullets fired for polygonal rifled barrels show no breaks in the coating. Recovered bullets from all standard rifled barrels show breaks in the coating at the edges of the rifling. Interesting indeed...

Are you fellow coaters seeing the same thing?

[btroj]

Nope. Might be the fact I don't have a Glock........

[Love Life]

I don't have a Glock........

Fail!

[btroj]

I own a Colt 1911 and a CZ 75B. I don't see a need for anything else as these are two of the finest handguns ever made.

If I ever decide I "need" a plastic fantastic pistols it will be a Glock.

How may Ruger revolvers do YOU own? Fail?

Oh, my Ruger GP100 and SRH both really do well with Hi-Tek.

[Love Life]

The Glock ranks up there with one of the finest hand guns ever made...

I'm not saying standard rifling will do bad with HT coated bullets, but if you get a chance to recover some then take a good look at them.

I looked over 200+ targets today along with recovered bullets from the targets. The evidence was certainly there that the coated bullets were more accurate with the polygonal rifling, and the coating held up much better. Now, I could put my scientist hat on and do a good bit of testing to verify it as best I could now that I know what I need to look for, but I'm not. I just going to keep on happily blasting away because I'm about tapped out when it comes to load development and testing stuff.

[btroj]

http://i1348.photobucket.com/albums/p733/Btroj/imagejpg1_zps6e7abbca.jpg (http://s1348.photobucket.com/user/Btroj/media/imagejpg1_zps6e7abbca.jpg.html)

These are from my 1911, SRH, and Marlin 1894 in 45 Colt. None of these show much cutting of the coating but these are all guns with a fair number of rounds thru em.

http://i1348.photobucket.com/albums/p733/Btroj/imagejpg2_zpscd748b10.jpg (http://s1348.photobucket.com/user/Btroj/media/imagejpg2_zpscd748b10.jpg.html)

These are two from the Marlin z1994 in 45 Colt. I am very impressed with how well the coating stays on the bullet even as it expands. That stuff is stuck on, that is for certain.


Ok, so what does this coating do? I don't think it behaves like a traditional lube. It isn't helping to seal the bore like a grease or wax type lube does. I think it is more likely keeping the lead from being exposed to powder gases and bare steel. It is more like a thin jacket than anything.

[freebullet]

What did you use to recover those?

[Love Life]

Interesting indeed. Hmmm...

I almost want to put up another drawing board, but I just want to get blasting!!

You can tell which bullets are Glock fired.

I have more bullets floating around fired from various other Glocks that appear the same as the Glock shot bullets here. You can see the coating stripping at the rifling edge of the traditional rifled barrels. I've never experienced any leading though.

[HI-TEK]

Interesting indeed. Hmmm...

I almost want to put up another drawing board, but I just want to get blasting!!

You can tell which bullets are Glock fired.

I have more bullets floating around fired from various other Glocks that appear the same as the Glock shot bullets here. You can see the coating stripping at the rifling edge. I've never experienced any leading though.

Congratulations on your reaching 10,000 blogs.
Well done

[Love Life]

Holy smokes. I really need to get a life...

[freebullet]

I'm curious on average how many beautiful women give you their # if firing hitek from glocks?

[Love Life]

Pretty bullets plus a ninja gun? Hot women get in fist fights just for the opportunity to give me gas money.

[freebullet]

Lol, I didn't think you'd pass on a setup like that lol.

[btroj]

What did you use to recover those?

The berm. First pistol bay on left as you pull in. Right by the ports potties.

[jakec]

Interesting indeed. Hmmm...

I almost want to put up another drawing board, but I just want to get blasting!!

You can tell which bullets are Glock fired.

I have more bullets floating around fired from various other Glocks that appear the same as the Glock shot bullets here. You can see the coating stripping at the rifling edge of the traditional rifled barrels. I've never experienced any leading though.
these are how mine look also. i dont have a glock but all my blackhawks and my 70 series colt 1911 cut the coating at the edge. i dont get leading unless im running loads that are too hot for a non gaschecked boolit. ive got a gascheck .44 mold on the way so ill see how that does.

[Moonman]

I just ordered a 4 cavity 9 MM 115 grain RN Iron Mold

and a 45 cal 4 cavity 230 grain RN Iron Mold, both have 3 locating pins.

MOLDS ARE SMOOTH, NO LUBE GROOVES.

Hardline Industries has them on E-Bay for 1 day at $125 each, plus shipping (BUY NOW) price.

[Moonman]

Just got a message from Mike at Hardline Industries, my NEW 9 MM & 45 cal

NO LUBE GROOVE 4 cavity Iron molds I ordered during the nighttime

from E-Bay ($125 each + ship) will ship out today.

Nice work MIKE & DERRICK at Hardline Industries.

I like the 3 alignment pin deal.

GOOD reviews from Love Life and gunoil here on the Forum for these molds.

I need to work up some alloy.

Can't hardly wait for the NEW Dry Powder HI-TEK stuff to reach the USA.

[HI-TEK]

Just got a message from Mike at Hardline Industries, my NEW 9 MM & 45 cal

NO LUBE GROOVE 4 cavity Iron molds I ordered during the nighttime

from E-Bay ($125 each + ship) will ship out today.

Nice work MIKE & DERRICK at Hardline Industries.

I like the 3 alignment pin deal.

GOOD reviews from Love Life and gunoil here on the Forum for these molds.

I need to work up some alloy.

Can't hardly wait for the NEW Dry Powder HI-TEK stuff to reach the USA.

Just a quick update.
Made some powdered product, which will be sent to US when local testing has confirmed test is OK.
Will keep you posted.
Commercial production and availability is 6-8 weeks away.
Orders for commercial quantities are pending.
So far, all looks great.
Thanks much for your interest.

[Ausglock]

Woohoo. More DRI_TEK Supercoat samples to play with.

[Moonman]

Ausglock,

Get to testing the stuff so HI-TEK Joe knows when he can start shipping the DRY to the USA.

Moonman

[Moonman]

Donnie at Bayou Bullets E-Mailed me about the Aerosol HI-TEK Mold Release,

he's waiting on labels, said it should be available in about another week.

MOONMAN

[Redwoode]

Hope we have some Kryptonite Green in the dry powders coming stateside in the near future.

[Ausglock]

Kryptonite green can' t be powdered. Zombie green can.

[Moonman]

Trevor,

Do you have photos of Zombie and Kryptonite Green pills to show color difference?

[HI-TEK]

Trevor,

Do you have photos of Zombie and Kryptonite Green pills to show color difference?

Attached are Zombie & Kryptonite green photos.101815101816

[Ausglock]

The zombie is a bit lighter green than the photo shows.

[Moonman]

Thanks Trevor,

The Kryptonite Green is the better looking one to me, so Kryptonite Green will remain
as a LIQUID TWO PART MIX and the Zombie Green will be a DRY Powder Mix?

[HI-TEK]

Thanks Trevor,

The Kryptonite Green is the better looking one to me, so Kryptonite Green will remain
as a LIQUID TWO PART MIX and the Zombie Green will be a DRY Powder Mix?

Made new batch of Zombie Green powder, destined for US, and will be tested first.
New photos will be published when it is done.
The other photo was an experimental first batch, to see how it turns out.
I am hoping that with tweaking of recipe, it may turn out much better.
I am hoping that what is made now, will look better that version 1 test sample.
Photos will be posted on new batch.

[Gateway Bullets]

Made new batch of Zombie Green powder, destined for US, and will be tested first.
New photos will be published when it is done.
The other photo was an experimental first batch, to see how it turns out.
I am hoping that with tweaking of recipe, it may turn out much better.
I am hoping that what is made now, will look better that version 1 test sample.
Photos will be posted on new batch.

You better hurry up there Joe! My orders are backing up! Lol

Did I read that Ausglock used his powder samples for weed killer? I gave mine to my kids to mix with water and color the snowmen they made all winter!

[btroj]

Uh oh, there goes the lawn.....

[gunoil]

Great molds moonman. you'll love em.

[gunoil]

please moonman, dont put anything but hi-tek bullet mold lube on em. Just use q-tip till spray cans are ready.

[Moonman]

gunoil,

I'm trying to get the MOLD HANDLE DIMENSIONS from the 4 cavity Hardline Industry molds
so Red River Rick (KAL Tool & Die) can tell me if his replacement RCBS handles (his "R" handles) will work.

Rick says his are not as long (reach) as the OLDER RCBS handles and he wants to make sure they'll
fit these before shipping them to the USA.

[Moonman]

gunoil,

I've got time, I'm not ready to start casting yet this year.

I also have Boolits already coated with HI-TEK Gold and Green coatings, also NEW from SNS Casting

NO LUBE GROOVE 9 MM 125 grain RN and 45 cal 230 Grain RN in stock already.

Plenty of time to get ready and to learn.

[Liberty'sSon]

Attached are Zombie & Kryptonite green photos.101815101816

Joe is the Zombie green, the one without the lube groove?

[Moonman]

Liberty's Son,

The Lube Groove Green that's duller is the ZOMBIE GREEN.

The Brighter Green NO GROOVE is the Kryptonite Green.

[HI-TEK]

Joe is the Zombie green, the one without the lube groove?

No. The no lube grooved is the Kryptonite Green

The sickly looking one with lube groove, is Zombie Green.
Tests done showed that it was a great coating, as apparently someone used samples of coated ones in a competition here, and won.
I dont know all details but reports back was that they were satisfied.
That is all that counts, that user is satisfied.
I am happy also.

[Ausglock]

As I said. The photos are not real good. I took them with the Phone camera.
The Zombie Green is lighter than the photo shows.
The photo was of my "Zombie Green" mixing. Not Hi-tek's.
As Joe said. His "factory mixed" ZG is far better looking than my "Custom mixed" ZG.
I mix colours to see what happens, and ZG is one of them.

When Joe sends the new ZG, I will test coat and take some good photos with the Pentax DSLR with better lighting.

ZG is more like the Hornady Projectiles Zombie Bullets boxes you see in the gunshops.
Google "Hornady Zombie" and have a look at the colour.
The Kryptonite Green is mine in OZ only. :wink:

[Liberty'sSon]

Perhaps it's because Ausglock was mixing colors or the picture quality but the zombie green in that pics looks a lot like Bayou Bullets Gator Snot green to me. But that Kryptonite Green on those smooth sided bullets makes me want to dive in an roll around in them. What's a fella gotta do to get some KG stateside?

[Moonman]

I'm waiting for some BETTER PHOTOS of the Green colors and differences.

Trevor (Ausglock) was going to do this, REAL Camera and in Good Light.

[HI-TEK]

Perhaps it's because Ausglock was mixing colors or the picture quality but the zombie green in that pics looks a lot like Bayou Bullets Gator Snot green to me. But that Kryptonite Green on those smooth sided bullets makes me want to dive in an roll around in them. What's a fella gotta do to get some KG stateside?

Bayous colour is much darker as it is a Dark Green, and no Metallics
Have a chat with Gateway or Bayou to get some stock in.
Ausglock, has snaggled the Australian market with his Kryptonite Green. Only available in liquid form.
They are a nice coating with Green colour and Gold flecks.
They shoot well also.
The Zombie Green, when we make it in house, forms a much better and more even coloured coating and is shiny as well.
After Ausglock tests some new powder samples, we will post results so you can see how it looks.

[gunoil]

Walmart $69.00

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k511/putt2012/null_zps6ba98a96.jpg

convection oven

[Moonman]

Trevor,

What's the pills weight on your beautiful Kryptonite Green ones?
Just curious.

[Ausglock]

They are 168gn sized .3575 for use in 357Sig in 1911/2011 guns for Std Division IPSC Major power factor loads.
Accurate molds 35-168Z.
Tom @ Accurate made this for me. After talking to Shooters that wanted a pill of that weight but with a longer nose specially for loading in 1911/2011.
This is the most accurate bullet in 357Sig ever fired by both the Aust Champion and the Queensland state Standard Division IPSC Team.
They are all using my Kryptonite Green coated Zombie Killer 168gn pills.

Production Division shooters are using my Accurate 35-150Z in 9mm also coated in KG.

[Moonman]

Trevor,
Sum Beech! That's some serious and beautiful stuff bloke.

[gunoil]

moonman. l used Al's NOE mold handles. I think theres alot of handles that would fit.

Oh yea, you'll get mold lube too! Really takes care of your mold. No burnt, greesy mess on ya mold.

I cut a lil piece off of copper wire (wide as pencil lead) & drop in hole then put set screw in and tighten. This locks threads in, protects threads, and sets your sproo plate bolt forever. USE ON ALL SET SCREWS.

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k511/putt2012/null_zps2409a819.jpg

[Moonman]

gunoil,

I have KAL Tool & Die handles coming from Red River Rick.
His RCBS replacement handles HAVE TANGS THAT ARE TOO SHORT.

Hardline Industries sent us a drawing and we determined that
Rick's "6X" handles (Lee Replacements) will probably work.
I'm probably going to have to RE-DRILL a couple holes,

no problem, (retired machinist).

If things don't work out I'll put them with my Lee 6 cavity molds
and look at some NOE handles.

I'll add the info to the "HANDLE STICKY" when completed.

I plan to order MOLD RELEASE and SIZING LUBE (HI-TEK stuff) from Donnie

at Bayou Bullets before using the HARDLINE INDUSTRIES no lube groove molds.

Thanks for your assistance with these molds.

P.S.
This morning I'm baking some 38 pills with DARK GREEN and GOLD HI-TEK
I received from Donnie some time back.

I also have some NO LUBE GROOVE 45 230RN and 9 MM 125RN
that I purchased from SNS CASTING, they look SWEET.

MOONMAN

[gunoil]

Dont forget the copper wire piece under set screw! You can feel it squeeeeeze and set in place. No thread mashing, bending, or scaring. Just soft copper tiny piece.

[Moonman]

gunoil,

Add copper wire piece to "THINGS TO DO".

Thanks,

MOONMAN

[Bonz]

just out of curiosity, has anyone ever roll crimped a .38/.357, fired the round and recovered the Hi-Tek coated bullet to see if the roll crimp stripped off the coating ?

[btroj]

It does NOT strip the coating.

[URL=http://s1348.photobucket.com/user/Btroj/media/imagejpg1_zps6e7abbca.jpg.html]http://i1348.photobucket.com/albums/p733/Btroj/imagejpg1_zps6e7abbca.jpg[/URL

The two on the left were roll crimped, one on right was taper crimped. None of them show signs of the case mouth scraping coating off the bullet.

[Moonman]

I never recovered any, but I've shot quite a few Roll Crimped 38 wadcutters,
DEWC regular groove, DEWC tumble lube groove, SWC,
all coated with "GOLD" HI-TEK twice.

No Leading, Barrels clean, works for me.

Bullseye Powder, W231 powder, Indoors.

[Bonz]

thanks for the replies, just keeps on looking better & better ;-)

[atygrit]

I had a bad batch of coated bullets I was testing and I think the coating has adhered to the barrel. I know there was a previous entry in this thread on what chemical is used to remove it, but I can't find it. What is the chemical to remove cured Hi-Tek?

[Ausglock]

Grafitti remover.
Can't remember the name of the chemical.

[HI-TEK]

Grafitti remover.
Can't remember the name of the chemical.

The Chemical that should remove coatings is N-Methyl Pyrrolidone also know as NMP.
Simply plug one end with wooden plug, fill barrel bore, and warm with hair dryer, or leave over night.
(Dont rush it, simply let the stuff do its work)
Then simply drain out liquid, and rinse/Brush out residues with water.
Rinse thoroughly and dry.
Do not contaminate NMP with water as it deactivates it from working, use it neat.
Dont spill this stuff on surfaces that are synthetic as it will start eating it, yet it is fairly safe material to use.

[HI-TEK]

I had a bad batch of coated bullets I was testing and I think the coating has adhered to the barrel. I know there was a previous entry in this thread on what chemical is used to remove it, but I can't find it. What is the chemical to remove cured Hi-Tek?

That will happen if not cured correctly, and also if you had it on too thick and not heat cured enough.
Coating just needs to be applied very thin layers with each coat, and baked adequately so it sets the film.
Once set, it will not get sticky and it wont melt.

[btroj]

I had some stick to a bore once due to under baking. Hoppes followed by a good brushing removed it. I must not have had it too bad?

[ghh3rd]

Darn! Another one of these threads... I keep feeling the urge to jump in. I don't know why it is so intriguing -- is it because the boolits look so unique? I have been wondering if accuracy is as good as with other lubes (Felix lube, Alox, etc.).

[Ausglock]

Accuracy is better.

[Gremlin460]

I had some fouling in the bore last week, for the first time, I think its because I baked too many in one tray, and although it hit the 200c temp it wasn't at 200c long enough to set the coating.
Just getting too enthusiastic I suppose.

[Ausglock]

You probably saw the video of my 12 volt wiper motor powered sizer.
It worked, but lacked the oomph to size reliably.
Well here is mark 2. It has a 415 volt 3 phase motor and powers through the toughest sizing job.
Enjoy.
http://i193.photobucket.com/albums/z222/glock40sw/smash/th_sizermark2.jpg (http://i193.photobucket.com/albums/z222/glock40sw/smash/sizermark2.mp4)

[Stephen Cohen]

Now if you can work out a feed system you have it made. You certainly wont have a problem from lack of power that is a monster well done.

[Ausglock]

I was going to try a 0.09Kw motor, but went with the .18Kw instead.
for you horsepower types, 0.18Kw is 1/4 HP.
Just after doing the video, I jammed a bullet sideways between the die and punch. everything stopped. Turned the power off and had to unscrew the die to get the bullet out. almost cut it in 1/2. I need a reverse switch on it too.
I'm working on an idea to replace the arm with a sprocket and chain drive to another sprocket that is linked to a pusher bar with a hole in it to carry the bullet to the die. Sort of like the magma sizer.

The video is on my photobucket. it should play by clicking the photo and be taken to photobucket where it will play.

[gunoil]

mine god old chap! Thats really bloody smooth! The magma star bullet feed is only 120$. U could make it fit.

Or keep thinkin:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BJOkb3RxrZE

[AMT7]

What is the average thickness of a coat in thousandths of an inch of HI-TEK after bake? He calls it micro thin but I do not remember reading how thin it really ends up being.

[Moonman]

Applied properly the HI-TEK is more OF A STAIN than an actual coating that builds up.

Electrostatic Powder Coating is a COATING and builds up the diameter.

[AMT7]

Your describing a much smaller molecule comparison and ionic bonding. I need some real tech data.

[Ausglock]

Your describing a much smaller molecule comparison and ionic bonding. I need some real tech data.

Why????

[AMT7]

Because I do not do uninformed chemistry.

[kweidner]

I guess it depends on who is coating. Mine is .001 or .002. I coat thicker and dry longer for aesthetic reasons for commercial stuff. My personal fodder gets a stain in that is almost un measurable without micrometer. Bet on around .001.

Easy on the sarcasm there people here will help. I believe Ausglocks point whas it matters not as you will likely size after coating. Too good of a community here full of really experienced reloaders and casters. Unlike some other forums where everyone steps on each other we try to be more of a family.
Not trying to be forward but Ausglock has more experience with this stuff as per his relationship with Joe.

[Ausglock]

Because I do not do uninformed chemistry.

I don't have a university education. so can you enlighten me as to what you mean by this?

HI-TEK coating has been in use here in OZ for over 20 years. I have personally been using it for 12 months.
It is a bullet coating. Not paint for the space shuttle.

I don't see what the issue is. The coating is a stain. any defects to the surface of the bullet does not get filled and smoothed by the coating like PC would. it is really really really thin.
I have some 150gn pills I'm casting and coating right now.
I will check them with a Micrometer and get back to you.

[kweidner]

You probably saw the video of my 12 volt wiper motor powered sizer.
It worked, but lacked the oomph to size reliably.
Well here is mark 2. It has a 415 volt 3 phase motor and powers through the toughest sizing job.
Enjoy.
http://i193.photobucket.com/albums/z222/glock40sw/smash/th_sizermark2.jpg (http://i193.photobucket.com/albums/z222/glock40sw/smash/sizermark2.mp4)

Gonna have to build one of those this summer. You got to figure out how to get it to feed automatically and I will buy one from you. I was thinking of buying the manual one from ballisticast and automating it. Also thought about maybe there is a way to modify a dillon 650 but haven't come up with a plan for that yet. Maybe you could add a Mr bullet feeder somehow to that one and be in business. Manually on 9, .380 and .40 I average 1400 to 1800 per hour but that is a long hour.

[Ausglock]

OK.. my 150gn bullets as cast with 2,6,92 alloy measure .3595
after 2 coats of Kryptonite Green they measure .3601
They then get sized to .3575
So, there ya go. Hardly a "coating". more like a surface stain.

[Moonman]

Sounds to me like someone trying to steal formula INFORMATION on the cheap and MAYBE become a competitor????????

[HI-TEK]

OK.. my 150gn bullets as cast with 2,6,92 alloy measure .3595
after 2 coats of Kryptonite Green they measure .3601
They then get sized to .3575
So, there ya go. Hardly a "coating". more like a surface stain.

In effect, if results in diameter of projectile increases by 0.0006 in diameter, it seems that the actual coating thickness, with applying two coats is 0.0003.
That is thin when comparing it to other coating/lube systems.
As long as it works, then it is OK.

[btroj]

I find it difficult to know the exact thickness. The coating isn't a smooth surface, it has some bumps and valleys in it so the thickness before sizing is difficult to know for certain.

I think anything over .002 total diameter increase means it was applied too heavy, that being for two coats.

[popper]

HiTek is about the same as PC in thickness - 2-3 thous.". Ausglock - use a V belt drive or or centrifugal clutch or get a GOOD controller for the motor. Stall current is like 4x the running current - but it won't pop the breaker. Personally, I'd have used a pnumatic cylinder. Some one here had inverted the sizer and used PVC pipe for the feeder. I'd add a shuttle gate to the pipe, single drop.

[AMT7]

I just bought an extra used lyman 450 to invert just for feeder ease but would appreciate some finer tips.

[Ausglock]

Popper. I thought of a air cylinder, but running the Compressor was too load for use late at night. I have the sparky fitting the limit switch and start switch this arvo.
I sized 3000 last night in about 1 1/2 hours. Fitted a drop tube by using poly pipe and hot melt glue. it works, but not what I want.
A magma style feeder with a mr. bulletfeeder with nose down option would be the go.
Over the easter break, I am breaking out the mig and plasma cutter to see what I can come up with.

AMT7. Are you trying to mix your own version of coating? Many have tried here in OZ to duplicate HI-TEK. they all failed! Some have gone to 2 pack type paints etc etc. They failed! How do I know? Because I have shot all their bullets. Only HI-TEK supercoat does the job.
The Lee C press is cheap and does the job. It also has the large openng that makes it easy to get your hand in.

[AMT7]

Not into chem engineering but I do learn. My sister and brother in law are both chemists but I just like to know what I am dealing with as in I read and understand MSDS sheets.
Being in aviation with the hoard of nasty stuff the industry uses I am careful how and why we use anything. BTW poly pipe as in poltethelyene/ polypropelythene is the best idea as PCV has a chemical now banned in several Euopean countries proven to contribute to obesity.

[gunoil]

Another pill to stain. 105gr. Hardline Industries iron mold.

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k511/putt2012/null_zps47663ae5.jpg

[HI-TEK]

Another pill to stain. 105gr. Hardline Industries iron mold.

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k511/putt2012/null_zps47663ae5.jpg

They are very nice looking.
That mold certainly seems to put out very even looking casts.
How do the weights go with comparing one with other in same mold?
Stain away, and would be great if you can post some coated ones as well.

[popper]

Just a thought but scroll/turbine compressors are really quiet. One of the paint sprayer co. Has a small unit with ~50 CFM. PSI is just easier to control.

[kweidner]

I just bought an extra used lyman 450 to invert just for feeder ease but would appreciate some finer tips.

450 is not good. sizers have holes for lube which can scrape coating and you have to make 2 pressure strokes in and out. I use a rockchucker cause I have an extra.

[gunoil]

Yes Joe, will stain some color on em. Then put some photos up here. These are hardline iron molds. They drop a weigh all close & calipers are all the same when measuring. Their other mold of 115gr l have is great too. I like quality and dont mind paying. These molds and rcbs pot makes me look like l know what iam doing, haha! Hell, the 1050 and a cartridge gage made me look good too and iam just amature sompin or nother, LMAO! Thanks.





- I intend to live forever... So far, so good.

[Liberty'sSon]

[QUOTE=Ausglock;2737364]Popper. I thought of a air cylinder, but running the Compressor was too load for use late at night. I have the sparky fitting the limit switch and start switch this arvo.
I sized 3000 last night in about 1 1/2 hours. Fitted a drop tube by using poly pipe and hot melt glue. it works, but not what I want.
A magma style feeder with a mr. bulletfeeder with nose down option would be the go.
Over the easter break, I am breaking out the mig and plasma cutter to see what I can come up with.


AG, you mention a Mr Bulletfeeder with nose down option. Is that available? I was told by a commercial reloader that Mr Bulletfeeder only worked nose UP. I haven't heard from the horses mouth here as the company that makes the Mr BF never returned my email. I sincerely hope you are right and it will work nose down.

Thanks

[Ausglock]

Yes they do make nose down. The oz importer checked with the manufacturer.

[Ausglock]

Well. I gave the powered sizer a good run tonight.
2,500 in just on an hour by hand feeding them into the die. I have fitted a reverse switch and a dead man switch that has to be held in to run the motor. release the switch, the sizer stops. had 2 fail to drop into the die. released the switch and all is good. this thing is the duck's guts. From 5:30pm to 9:30pm, I cast, coated, baked, coated, baked and sized 2,500 bullets. not bad going for hand casting with 2, 5 cavity molds.

[gunoil]

Yes , Rick even got patient papers back 2 weeks ago for his nose dwn. I would say they will be available in couple months. Doublealpha (a manufacturer in europe) will not make nose dwn plates. In a couple months you can buy direct from Rick.

Incase your wondering who Rick is, he is mrbulletfeeder. He is fine tuning it on a 3-D printer. Will be made in Arizona.

[gunoil]

Joe, other mold not here yet, but i guess these 115's are ruby red!
http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k511/putt2012/null_zpsdda4dc2e.jpg

[Gremlin460]

http://s664.photobucket.com/user/qvideo/media/01PtDwnDAA_zps7a02454c.mp4.html

Mrbulletfeeder Video point down

[HI-TEK]

Joe, other mold not here yet, but i guess these 115's are ruby red!
http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k511/putt2012/null_zpsdda4dc2e.jpg

They are pretty. Almost a lipstick colour.
These coloured coatings must have come from last shipment of coatings by Bayou.
There has been quite a few who wanted such a colour.
It has been areal long term battle, to find any thing that would be stable with the coating in the cure conditions.
Looks like success, (hopefully).
Well done.

[Ausglock]

Looks like the rose red AE.
It is a very good coating.

Gunslick. Can you post some vids or close-up photos of the star feeder/
I have an idea....

[Valerko]

Did anybody try this coating on .22 cal ? No gas check , just coating. Something semi , like AR 15?
I've been trying to work up the load, so far it wouldn't even cycle the bolt

[gunoil]

here: watch this one. AG
http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k511/putt2012/B7899165-679F-4DE1-83B0-73D9EEA3FA59-716-000001DF3DBA79E6_zps8b8466f4.mp4

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k511/putt2012/null_zps0c980c46.jpg

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k511/putt2012/40DCFAFA-BB40-4BCE-BF26-98D433B97FED-716-000001E3BA8EAFC5_zps6f7c1a32.mp4

[Moonman]

Valerko,

You can experiment, others are also, but HI-TEK polymer type coatings were developed

a couple decades ago in Australia for handgun competitors.

Many in the US are rifle oriented and may be better off experimenting with the various

Powder Coating methods from ELECTROSTATIC to TUMBLE.

The Paint/Powder type coated rifle projectiles and accuracy testing are a new and wide open field.

[Gremlin460]

Trev I made this a few weeks back.. works well, can send you pics of componets or do a post on it in home made stuff forum.

http://s881.photobucket.com/user/Gremlin460/media/DSC_00431_zps85382eb2.jpg.html?sort=3&o=8

I can do a quick video of it in action if you like... just say so.

[Ausglock]

Grem.
What drive you gunna use?
Mine in motovario from FSC in Vic.
$375 all up. shaft is 14mm with 4mm keys.
I have been studying Gunoil's vids and photos and reckon I can build a similar setup. I can use the 1"x1" as the lifter for a lever to flick the bullet carrier to the die and when the lever drops off the 1x1, a spring will pull it back to pickup a new bullet as the ram sizes the first bullet. I have some white nylon for the bullet carrier. A piece of 3mm plate to fit over the die and for the carrier to run on.

[Ausglock]

Thanks for the vids, Gunslick. Really helps me to understand the function of the lever.
Do you have to adjust anything when going from a small 9mm to a larger, longer 358 or 45 pill?

[gunoil]

their is a L. & S. slider's and tubes. Thats it!

Why dont you buy complete unit from Eric @ $120.00,, that will catipult you forward and u want have to make but a few pieces.

You need a vertical rod running parallel to your ram. Just a long bolt and welded on nut to activate black slider lever.

I think this is one of the few pieces you would make:
http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k511/putt2012/null_zpse7ab4491.jpg

[gunoil]

I think this 6 tube colator (doublealpha) is bout 30$. Just set and watch on stool and drop bullets, till your collator comes about.

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k511/putt2012/null_zpsfc75f026.png

The Lee 4 tube one is about 30$ to your door.

[jimbo1950]

Well. I gave the powered sizer a good run tonight.
2,500 in just on an hour by hand feeding them into the die. I have fitted a reverse switch and a dead man switch that has to be held in to run the motor. release the switch, the sizer stops. had 2 fail to drop into the die. released the switch and all is good. this thing is the duck's guts. From 5:30pm to 9:30pm, I cast, coated, baked, coated, baked and sized 2,500 bullets. not bad going for hand casting with 2, 5 cavity molds.

Wow!! 2500 pills in 4 hours! I do not see how that is possible in 4 hours!
I can usually only cast around 500/hr not to mention cooling time,baking time , coating time,and sizing time!
You must be a machine!

[Beagle333]

Wow!! 2500 pills in 4 hours! I do not see how that is possible in 4 hours!
I can usually only cast around 500/hr not to mention cooling time,baking time , coating time,and sizing time!
You must be a machine!

Have you seen his video of him casting? He is a machine! It's quite impressive. :coffeecom

[Redwoode]

Link please?

[Moonman]

He just uses 2 or 3 moulds with 5 to 6 cavities, has a very good switching rhythm,

and sets them onto a steel bar to control his moulds temp.

Practice-Practice-Practice.

He knows what he's doing, uses machinery efficiently or builds more machines.

He was looking at setting up a revolving rack baking/curing oven. ala Burger King.

[Ausglock]

Jimbo. When you get into a rhythm, time flys and the bullet pile builds up.
I am currently running 2 5 cavity molds. I have a desk fan blowing across the bullet pile and the molds to maintain temp. this cools the bullets and I don't have to stop to let the molds cool down. I have a Lee 10lb pot pre melting and feeding down to a Lee 20lb pot and cast from the 20lb'er. Every once in awhile I will collect the bullets and coat them, then bake. I have another desk fan to cool the baked bullets. I have 7 drying trays and 7 baking trays. As it only takes a few minutes to coat and to swap trays baking, I do it all while still casting. I turn the casting fan off when I'm swapping trays in the oven or coating to prevent too much temp loss. Then when I start casting again, turn the fan on again. It really works great. I can easily cast 1000 per hour like this. Having a 6 stack CD player in the shed full of Metallica, AC/DC, Def Leppard, Georgia Satellites, Lynard Skynard, etc keeps me rocking and casting. \m/

http://s193.photobucket.com/user/glock40sw/media/122713174018.mp4.html

[Redwoode]

"Master Caster" in the flesh. Many thanks for sharing. This really accelerates the learning curve and optimizes the process.

Speaking of AC/DC, what's gotten Malcolm down?

Best, Arnell

[Ausglock]

G'day Arnell.
Story is that he had a stroke and can't play guitar afterwards.
I just came down from the shed. Started casting at 9:30am. finished casting at 1:30pm.
Have a pile of 3000 9mm bullets. all from 1, 5 cavity mold Accurate Molds Ali mold. it is now 5:30pm and they are all baked first coat. All have been second coated and now drying. I'll bake them later tonight after dinner.

While casting today, I baked and sized 2000 that I cast last night.

[Gremlin460]

Trev..


I was going to automate it, but its that easy and fast to use manually I have decided not to bother, I will however add a boolit feeder to it in the near future.

http://s881.photobucket.com/user/Gre...tml?sort=3&o=8

[Ausglock]

I get an error for your link.

[220]

I have a Lee 10lb pot pre melting and feeding down to a Lee 20lb pot and cast from the 20lb'er.
I think this is the secret to his speed, Ive timed myself and can cast about 400 in 15min with a couple of six cavity moulds but then need to wait 20min for my 20lb pot to remelt and get back up to temp.
Takes me about 5 min to run 100 through a push through die I do this while Im coating and baking.

[kbstenberg]

Gunoil I just watched the video of your Star in action. And I have a question.
If I try to size one bullet after another. The first bullet is not pushed all the way out of the bottom of the die. When the second bullet is placed into the sizer I can push it into the die until it bottoms out on the first bullet. Then if I put additional pressure to push both the first bullet out and second bullet down into the sizer die further. The second bullet has its nose swagged flat against the first bullet, and the upper part of the bullet above the sizer is swagged so large it can't fit into the sizer.
The only way I can use the sizer. If I put the first bullet into the sizing die, push it as far into the die as the plunger will push it. Raise the plunger as far as it will go. Then I have to use a piece of aluminum rod about 1.5" long that I place between the plunger and the bullet and push the bullet out the bottom of the sizing die.
Yes I have tried unscrewing the plunger as far as it will go. Which still isn't far enough to push the first bullet out of the bottom of the sizing die. HELP[smilie=b:
I forgot I am doing 30 cal bullets

[Ausglock]

I'd turn up a longer push rod on the lathe.

[jimbo1950]

Jimbo. When you get into a rhythm, time flys and the bullet pile builds up.
I am currently running 2 5 cavity molds. I have a desk fan blowing across the bullet pile and the molds to maintain temp. this cools the bullets and I don't have to stop to let the molds cool down. I have a Lee 10lb pot pre melting and feeding down to a Lee 20lb pot and cast from the 20lb'er. Every once in awhile I will collect the bullets and coat them, then bake. I have another desk fan to cool the baked bullets. I have 7 drying trays and 7 baking trays. As it only takes a few minutes to coat and to swap trays baking, I do it all while still casting. I turn the casting fan off when I'm swapping trays in the oven or coating to prevent too much temp loss. Then when I start casting again, turn the fan on again. It really works great. I can easily cast 1000 per hour like this. Having a 6 stack CD player in the shed full of Metallica, AC/DC, Def Leppard, Georgia Satellites, Lynard Skynard, etc keeps me rocking and casting. \m/

http://s193.photobucket.com/user/glock40sw/media/122713174018.mp4.html

Ausglock,that is a impressive video, well done! Please do not get me wrong that i think that it is not possible to cast size and coat twice 2500 boolits in 4 hours.I look foreward to you posts,as i believe you are a a casting ,coating genius!!!!
That being said, 2.5 hrs to cast, i hour to size leaves .5 hours to coat 2500 boolits 2 times?
I also use 2 molds at once and it works very well, but i am going to try the 2 pot method, 20 lbs of lead does not last long with the 2 or 3 mold technique.
Again excellent job on refining your technique and sharing your knowledge and experience with us!
Regards,
JIMBO

[Gremlin460]

Try this link..

http://s881.photobucket.com/user/Gremlin460/media/DSC_00431_zps85382eb2.jpg.html?sort=3&o=8

[gunoil]

KB, call eric at magma star and ask him. ask him about bullet feeder to.

[Ausglock]

Grem. Do a vid of it working.
Jimbo. It is all time management.
1. start casting.
2. when I get 250 bullets, they get pushed aside to cool.
3. keep casting.
4. coat the first 250.
5. keep casting.
6. warm oven and push aside the second 250.
7. keep casting.
8. bake first 250. coat second 250.
9. keep casting.
10.Removed first 250 to cool under a fan.
11. keep casting.
12. bake 2nd 250. re-coat first 250.
13.keep casting.
14. push 3rd 250 to cool, remove 2nd tray to cool. rebake first 250.
15. keep casting.
16.re-coat 2nd tray, coat 3rd tray.
17. keep casting.
18. remove first tray for final cool, re-bake 2nd try, per-warn 3rd tray, coat 4th tray.

Ya see how this is flowing? Easy as. you just have to manage your time.
Baking time is 40 minutes per 1000. this time is also used for coating and casting inclusive.
When I stop casting, I'm still baking as I am sizing. So there is never a single process except for then I start casting and when I am sizing the last 250 bullets from the last tray.

[jimbo1950]

Grem. Do a vid of it working.
Jimbo. It is all time management.
1. start casting.
2. when I get 250 bullets, they get pushed aside to cool.
3. keep casting.
4. coat the first 250.
5. keep casting.
6. warm oven and push aside the second 250.
7. keep casting.
8. bake first 250. coat second 250.
9. keep casting.
10.Removed first 250 to cool under a fan.
11. keep casting.
12. bake 2nd 250. re-coat first 250.
13.keep casting.
14. push 3rd 250 to cool, remove 2nd tray to cool. rebake first 250.
15. keep casting.
16.re-coat 2nd tray, coat 3rd tray.
17. keep casting.
18. remove first tray for final cool, re-bake 2nd try, per-warn 3rd tray, coat 4th tray.

Ya see how this is flowing? Easy as. you just have to manage your time.
Baking time is 40 minutes per 1000. this time is also used for coating and casting inclusive.
When I stop casting, I'm still baking as I am sizing. So there is never a single process except for then I start casting and when I am sizing the last 250 bullets from the last tray.

I see how you do it, and i multi task the same way! But you forgot a few things!

(1) Time to wipe the sweat off your face

(2) time to change CD

(3) time to run to fridge to get a cold one

(4) time spent when wife interupts you and wants to talk about your day

(5) time spent answering phone and it is a political survey,or telemarketer

(6) time spent picking up 250 boolits when you drop a tray

(7) time spent seeing what the dogs are barking at

(8) time spent getting a bag of Swedish fish from the pantry

(9) time spent when your nosy neighbor wants to see what you are doing

(10) time spent watching lady walking her dog

(11) time spent with UPS driver as you new mold was just delivered

(12) time spent reading the new posts on Cast Bullets forum

(13) time spent dressing a hot lead burn because you did not put on your welders gloves

(14) time spent adusting your mold and the Lee drip o matic

I am sure there are more ...

Thanks!!

Jim

[Ausglock]

hahahaha..

I tell everyone that I have a meth lab. they stay away....Wooohoo.
Expecting a visit from the police :-)

My fridge is below the oven.
CD is 6 stack.

[kweidner]

Ausglock has a good system. I have 10 baking trays and do 2500 at a time. I try to keep 50 lbs of bullets ready to bake at any given time. I have 2 ovens and pretty much use the same system of baking while casting. I use 3 coats so my casting always outruns my baking. I size as the last baking is coming out.

[Ausglock]

Just sent an email to magma about buying the star bullet feeder.
I am going to re-visit the Red 254 mixed with Gold 1035 coating.
I found the remains of this coating yesterday when I was cleaning up (tipping out) old coatings.
Think candyapple red and this is wht it looks like.

[redrockant]

Trev just looked at the sizer. Impressed. Madam president said to keep your fingers out. Coated 5000 today perfect think my salt air hypothesis is supported

[Ausglock]

sweet.
I cast 4000 yesterday. coated and baked 1 coat. went to church today. came home and baked 2nd coat and cast 3500. Sized the 4000 and coated the 3500 with 1st coat. going to bake tomorrow and cast another 4000 coat and size.
The sizer makes it so much faster and easier. It doesn't really get too close to fingers if you time it right. It is getting an Auto feeder fitted shortly. Need for get a Mr Buller feeder to sit on top.
The Qlders are going nuts. We need to talk.

[bmiller]

Try this link..

http://s881.photobucket.com/user/Gremlin460/media/DSC_00431_zps85382eb2.jpg.html?sort=3&o=8

I second the video request! I am very interested in this. Nice job!

[Redwoode]

What are the group's thoughts on beveled based vs flat based bullets using hi tek? I'm thinking about accuracy, less case expansion (beveled) and ease of loading on progressive presses.

Happy Easter all!

[Ausglock]

G'day Red.

I have been coating both, and shooting both.
BB is easier to cast and coat as you don't get the slight "flash" at the base where the prue plate meets the mold. for FB i do 1 coat, then size, then apply the second coat. for BB I do 2 coats then size.

I load on a Dillon 550 and the case belling (flare) remains the same for both base types.
There is no noticeable difference in handgun accuracy that a blind old hack like me can notice.

[beex215]

Jimbo. When you get into a rhythm, time flys and the bullet pile builds up.
I am currently running 2 5 cavity molds. I have a desk fan blowing across the bullet pile and the molds to maintain temp. this cools the bullets and I don't have to stop to let the molds cool down. I have a Lee 10lb pot pre melting and feeding down to a Lee 20lb pot and cast from the 20lb'er. Every once in awhile I will collect the bullets and coat them, then bake. I have another desk fan to cool the baked bullets. I have 7 drying trays and 7 baking trays. As it only takes a few minutes to coat and to swap trays baking, I do it all while still casting. I turn the casting fan off when I'm swapping trays in the oven or coating to prevent too much temp loss. Then when I start casting again, turn the fan on again. It really works great. I can easily cast 1000 per hour like this. Having a 6 stack CD player in the shed full of Metallica, AC/DC, Def Leppard, Georgia Satellites, Lynard Skynard, etc keeps me rocking and casting. \m/

http://s193.photobucket.com/user/glock40sw/media/122713174018.mp4.html
i never thought to do this. i always found that i was wasting time and gas with one person and one mold. looking at this video this is a more relaxed state with an easy 4 drops in one minute. for a fair but over 1000 rounds per hour. i need to get mold handles and a lee melting pot.

[atygrit]

I'm trying to get that perfect stain color before I bake these. I have been told to use 1ml per pound for 9mm.

This is black with a 5-5-1 mix with 2ml for 2 pounds 102836. I think this is way too much, so I backed it off and tried the same mix, but 1 ml for 2 pounds of 9mm, 102835. I'm thinking this is too much.

I haven't had a chance to try it yet, but i was thinking almost .5 ml for 2 pounds of 9mm. Any suggestions.

[Ausglock]

Looks OK to me. A 5.1.7 mix will give better cover.
20mls per 1000 9mm bullets is the normal coating.
So divide by 4.
So, 5mls per 250 9mm bullets. How many Lbs is 250 bullets??

Don't fall into the trap of over thinking it. remember. It is easy. If the first coat is too thin, no problem. Just have a heavier 2nd coat or even apply a 3rd coat.
If the first coat is too thick, Big problem. you run the risk of the coating not sticking to the lead, causeing a fail for the smash test.

[redrockant]

I'm with Trev on this one. I use 6mls per 250. I use 5:1:10. Never go too thick, if its too thick it will fail smash test, coating will not flex.

[leadman]

I found a thin first coat works great and can be followed up with more thin coats or if you need to increase the boolit diameter you can use thicker coats but will probably have to increase baking time.
I have a couple of mil-surp rifles that have larger bores and no mold to drop the correct size boolit. So I apply a thicker second and third coat of Red Copper. I can increase size by 2 to 3 thousands easily. They shoot very well to at least 2,000 fps with no leading.

[Ausglock]

Well. It has been a very productive Easter break. From Thursday afternoon to 6pm today (Monday) I have cast 13,000 bullets. Coated twice, baked twice 11,000. Sized 9,000 of them. Have 2000 waiting to be sized (either .356 or .357 depending on what is needed) And have 2000 to use as test bullets for the New coating Samples that are on the way from HI-TEK Joe.
Thank God I go back to work tomorrow.. I need the rest :-)

[Gremlin460]

I cant find any 356 or 357 lee push through Dies anywhere in SE Qld at the moment, any over that side of the tweed river??

I have a guy with a XDM 5.2 that I just cannot get rounds to seat nice, so will have to drop down to 357 or 356 on sizing.

[Ausglock]

Grem. www.titanreloading.com
I have a .356 and a .357 due this week.
they give great service.

[gunoil]

g460, buy a cartridge gage too!

[Hi-Performance Bullet Coatings]

Here some pics of some bullets I coated with the new colors I recently received.
Red 122, we named Black Cherry.
102875

[Hi-Performance Bullet Coatings]

Red 254 we call it Brick Red
102877

[Hi-Performance Bullet Coatings]

Gold 1035
102878

[Hi-Performance Bullet Coatings]

6 rds 25 yds 124 9mm 124 RN coated with Gold 1035 from a S&W 5" 9MM PPC
ATTACH=CONFIG]102879[/ATTACH]

[Hi-Performance Bullet Coatings]

I have the following colors in stock:
Dark Green
Black
Red Copper
Gold
Gold 1035
Black Cherry
Brick Red
Lots of 2-Extreme Catalyst on hand as well.
I also have the Mould Release in Aerosol in both 4oz cans and 11oz cans.
I can also provide the 500 Plus release in concentrate liquid from 2 oz to 5 liter bottles.
Call or e-mail me for pricing. bayoubullets@yahoo.com
225 324 4501

I have plenty of the powdered resin on order.
I will offer the following colors in powdered form:
Black
Zombie Green
Gold 1035
Texas Tea
I also have the bullet sizing lube ordered.

If ya'll have interest in any other powdered colors he makes I will gladly order them if there is enough interest.
Your business is greatly appreciated.

[Love Life]

I want zombie green powder!! I'll shoot you a PM because I also want some mould release.

[kryogen]

can you ship the hi tek powder to canada now?

[Redwoode]

In liquid what's the difference between gold and gold 1035 please?

[Hi-Performance Bullet Coatings]

can you ship the hi tek powder to canada now?


I am making a test run (shipping powder) to Canada.
I'll know more in a week or so.

[Hi-Performance Bullet Coatings]

In liquid what's the difference between gold and gold 1035 please?

The Gold 1035 has a stronger (tougher) resin.

[220]

ml per pound sounds about right, doesn't seem to be a fixed rate that works for everyone more trial and error until you find what works for your application, technique and equipment. I'm using 6ml per 2.5kg (5.5lb) although I have now gone to 5-1-10 mix.
Try more acetone and applying the same volume of mixed product, should give a more even thinner coat.

[Michael J. Spangler]

Swamprat.
Do you have any estimates on powder prices and yield? Thanks!

[Ausglock]

Swampy. They look good.
The Gold 1035 is a brighter gold than the other gold.
Your red brick is what I called fire engine red.
The black cherry (nice name) is Rose red.

I think the Zombie Green will be a winner for you. It is a unique colour. Joe is sending some new blue coatings to try. I really hope one of them stays blue.

[Beagle333]

Zombie Green is what it'll take to lure me away from my ESPC.
But I'm ready to be lured! ;-)

[Moonman]

Swamprat,

I'll be looking for ZOMBIE GREEN POWDER when it arrives in USA.

[Hi-Performance Bullet Coatings]

Swampy. They look good.
The Gold 1035 is a brighter gold than the other gold.
Your red brick is what I called fire engine red.
The black cherry (nice name) is Rose red.

I think the Zombie Green will be a winner for you. It is a unique colour. Joe is sending some new blue coatings to try. I really hope one of them stays blue.

My pics really don't do any of the coating justice, especially the Gold 1035.. I too hope the Blue's will hold up. I need a Pink Hi-Tek too.

[Michael J. Spangler]

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll105/MJSpangler/Grips/1264B8DB-DD00-4A81-818C-EB8C4D364308_zpsks3szg3d.jpg (http://s286.photobucket.com/user/MJSpangler/media/Grips/1264B8DB-DD00-4A81-818C-EB8C4D364308_zpsks3szg3d.jpg.html)

This was recovered from the berm.
Is this typical of the performance of the coating?

[Ausglock]

Yep. Looks about right. Some can look like new. Those fired from Glocks could almost be loaded and fired again.

[Love Life]

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll105/MJSpangler/Grips/1264B8DB-DD00-4A81-818C-EB8C4D364308_zpsks3szg3d.jpg (http://s286.photobucket.com/user/MJSpangler/media/Grips/1264B8DB-DD00-4A81-818C-EB8C4D364308_zpsks3szg3d.jpg.html)

This was recovered from the berm.
Is this typical of the performance of the coating?

Yes. Check the fired boolits thread. You will see that is common with standard rifling.

[atygrit]

Looks OK to me. A 5.1.7 mix will give better cover.
20mls per 1000 9mm bullets is the normal coating.
So divide by 4.
So, 5mls per 250 9mm bullets. How many Lbs is 250 bullets??

Don't fall into the trap of over thinking it. remember. It is easy. If the first coat is too thin, no problem. Just have a heavier 2nd coat or even apply a 3rd coat.
If the first coat is too thick, Big problem. you run the risk of the coating not sticking to the lead, causeing a fail for the smash test.

I baked both sets and both passed the smash test. But some came off with the acetone, but I think it is a small amount. Would this be acceptable?

102898

[Ausglock]

How long did you bake for? If you did 10 minutes. Increase your time to 12.

[Gremlin460]

Here is a poorly shot video, it was shortened when I uploaded it , but there is enough to give you the idea.


http://s881.photobucket.com/user/Gremlin460/media/MOV_0001_zps93566aa9.mp4.html?sort=3&o=0

[leadman]

atygrit, if you have any bare lead on the boolit you will get a dark gray color off it. What color are you coating with?

[atygrit]

atygrit, if you have any bare lead on the boolit you will get a dark gray color off it. What color are you coating with?

I'm using black. I see a little residue on the cotton patches, but the boolit still has coating on it (I'm not wiping off to bare lead).

[jimbo1950]

I have the following colors in stock:
Dark Green
Black
Red Copper
Gold
Gold 1035
Black Cherry
Brick Red
Lots of 2-Extreme Catalyst on hand as well.
I also have the Mould Release in Aerosol in both 4oz cans and 11oz cans.
I can also provide the 500 Plus release in concentrate liquid from 2 oz to 5 liter bottles.
Call or e-mail me for pricing. bayoubullets@yahoo.com
225 324 4501

I have plenty of the powdered resin on order.
I will offer the following colors in powdered form:
Black
Zombie Green
Gold 1035
Texas Tea
I also have the bullet sizing lube ordered.

If ya'll have interest in any other powdered colors he makes I will gladly order them if there is enough interest.
Your business is greatly appreciated.
I will definitly order zombie green powder, please let us know when it arrives!

[Moonman]

Just finished talking to Donnie a few minutes ago, ordered some BRICK RED,
the new 1035 GOLD, EXTREME CATALYST and Mold coating.

He said the Zombie Green POWDER was still several months out,
I'll be ordering that in the future also.

Using my DARK GREEN and GOLD now.

[gunoil]

Shot 150 green ones (135 & 125 gr) today flawless in a kahr cm9 l bought this morn. Coating some ruby red ones now, just a few 380's from a new mold.
http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k511/putt2012/null_zps47663ae5.jpg

[Avenger442]

O.K. I've read all 2984 post up to this point and I've swapped a couple of emails with Donnie. Everyone is right he is very good at responding. And my appreciation to Hi-Tech for bringing this to our shores. To Ausglock and others for helping us get it up and running.

First I'm sold on the idea for this coating and my handguns. I shoot for fun with handguns hunt with rifle. If I put it in 4" hole at 50 yards with pistol I'm delighted. Not a competitive shooter except against myself.

I started reloading because it was cheaper and more convenient than buying in the store. I didn't start casting until last year because I just didn't want to mess with buying more equipment. And a major hold back was lubing, just seemed to be something I didn't want to mess with. Got turned on to this Forum by someone who was telling me about 45-45-10 lube. He said that it might be something I could successfully use. I have the components but still don't think it would work for me in the rifles. Then happened to notice in one of the threads this coating.

In talking with Donnie I also mentioned I shoot 308 AR and bolt guns. Also have one of the Aussie favorites a 303 Enfield. I really want this coating to work as a lubricant (as we are reminded it was created for ) in my rifle rounds, too. I also want to humanely kill deer with it at say 200 yards. Donnie suggested three of the tougher coatings Gold, Red Copper or the new Gold 1035 for my 308s, 30-06, and 303. I'm not like some in the past post that don't want to develop and report success and/or failures. But I must ask the question that has been nagging me, I guess directed at Hi-Tech. Is it reasonable to expect , at some point based on what you know now, that this coating can perform the same or better than a copper jacketed bullet as far as accuracy? (yes I did say the Jword) If the answer is yes sales will skyrocket here in the States. If no, it still has a big market here.

On a side note, my wife and I have been planning a trip to Australia. Have always wanted to visit down under. At least in the top five countries I would like to visit. But drop bears may keep my wife at home.:mrgreen:

[gunoil]

Inwanta go dwn under too for a month.

[Ausglock]

Quiet pleasant here at the moment.
27 to 30deg C of a day and down to a chilly 14 deg C over night.

[Avenger442]

Quiet pleasant here at the moment.
27 to 30deg C of a day and down to a chilly 14 deg C over night.

So that's about 89 F in the day and 57 F at night. About our normal early summer temps here in the South. How is the humidity there? That's what can be bad here.

[HI-TEK]

"I guess directed at Hi-Tech. Is it reasonable to expect , at some point based on what you know now, that this coating can perform the same or better than a copper jacketed bullet as far as accuracy? (yes I did say the Jword) If the answer is yes sales will skyrocket here in the States. If no, it still has a big market here. "

Thanks for your blog.

What I can advise is, that we never envisaged at trying to replace Copper Jacketed projectiles.
I do not think that any polymer can be made into same hardness and properties of metals such as copper film used on jacketed ammo.
I am aware, that the coatings, have been used on jacketed ammo, to reduce or have the intent to reduce Copper fouling.
The coating in fact achieved this aspect and accuracy was maintained with coated Jacketed projectiles..

Loss in accuracy using coated cast alloy, has now been confirmed by US guys, as being able to be overcome, with reasonable accuracy, but alloy of choice and sizing diameters were of importance when trying to maximise and maintain accuracy.

Loss of accuracy with coated hard cast alloys, as reported, and appears, was mainly due to changes of engineering occurring with non jacketed alloy, when comparing what was happening with jacketed alloy.
Accuracy loss was not directly due to coating failures, as coating and accuracy was maintained when same coating was used on Jacketed alloys.
I believe that postings were done by a few, who had used coating on hard cast alloys with Rifle applications.
May be those folk can re-post the results. (thanks much)

With reference to harder coatings, we sent coatings to US with request to make the coating much harder.
I believe that we have achieved an increase in hardness of the baked coating.
As these are all new products, and are in US before they are used in Australia, I have to rely on feed back from people that had tested these against out standard coatings.
Independently done tests here, (prior to our sending newer resin systems to the US), in pistol use, at major power factors showed that coatings worked just fine, great accuracy, clean guns, and low smoke.
Now I eagerly await importers and users posting their experiences with individual trials on these products.

Thanks much, I appreciate your vote of confidence.

If you plan to come down under, as Byron at OMJ gunworks says, we Aussies all are hanging on with our toes down here as we are all upside down...lol...lol...
Seriously, Australia is a big place, and it can take you years to see it all.
Beautiful country..... what else can I say....
I have been to the US, New York, South Carolina, Wilmington, New Jersey, but home is best, sorry..

[Ausglock]

Humidity is currently 65% as at 13:00 hrs

[popper]

Avenger-as others have found out, keeping alloy hardness with HiTek is a problem for rifle. HFPC you rifle and you will be happy.

[Avenger442]

I agree Hi-Tek, Home is always best. Have been to England parts of South America and about 12 of our 50 states. I would not live anywhere else but where I grew up. I still live withing 60 miles of where I was born.

For a while here in the States certain calibers of copper jacket rounds were hard to find and getting expensive. For years I shot less because of this. Reloading then casting seemed to be a way around this supply shortage demand problem.

I don't have 40 years of casting experience like some on this forum. I'm a "newbie" to casting. I don't do linotype, monotype etc.(hard alloy) casting for my rifles because they, in my opinion, don't make good hunting bullets for animals I hunt. I practice with rounds I hunt with. When you hunt, optimum is, the animal shot in the right area immediately goes down and stays down as in immediate death. This happens in most cases with small projectile becoming large projectile and leaving a large wound channel without destroying the meat. Softer lead cast and or hollow pointing can do this. Most of us that hunt have seen an animal lost after being shot. Which is the worst case. Even with copper jacketed bullets, for a variety of reasons, immediate death doesn't always happen. Hard alloy casting can also produce a bullet that is less accurate because the lead is not soft enough to help seal barrel (again my opinion). I understand lubricants such as the various grease and waxes also help seal the barrel. I don't intend my comments/opinions as an offense to you guys who hard cast. It just doesn't seem to meet what I use my bullets for. Most of my cast are straight wheel weights with about 2% tin.

I understand the vision here is lubricant not make a jacket. I'm looking for something (one thing) easy to do, inexpensive, not so messy I have to clean everything when I get through loading that can get me where I want to go casting bullets. I think this one may be it. Time and testing will tell.

Popper
I have not ruled out PC yet. I'm just not through with the HT yet. Like I said previously, I read all of the post. As you probably know, I don't need extremely high fps with 30-06 or 303 to put a deer down. Maybe I can get what I want out of HT maybe not.

[Michael J. Spangler]

Shot a ton more tonight. My steel gong is still at a friend house and I hate shooting paper so I basically hunt rocks on the 30 yard berm with my revolvers.
A 358495 hit a rock and all but exploded. It tore in to shreds and is about 1.5" long and looks like a piece of orange peel.
The coating is still intact on the outside of that bullet.
Plenty of others were picked out of the dirt from beside the rocks I was hunting. Some with just a little nose damage and perfect rifling cut in deep and coating intact.

I've been trying to create some interest on my local shooting and reloading forum. We'll see if the slackers catch on to this little gem ; )

[bosco555]

Inwanta go dwn under too for a month.

I think you'll change your mind if you come to Western Australia...especially in summer...Perfect beaches, but 40 to 45 deg C and 80-90% humidity make wanna move to Alaska....

[dverna]

Avenger,

Hi-Tek is a great pistol coating. So far, limited success in rifles IF accuracy is important. But it will not lead even at rifle velocities so it may be just fine, depending on your needs - but you need to try it.

If you only need a limited number of hunting bullets, paper patching will give jacketed performance with accuracy using a softer alloy. (there is a sub forum on paper patching) It is what I would use if I hunted. It requires no expensive equipment and a bit of patience. I would then practice with normal lubed bullets.

Another option is Dry Tumble PC. Bangerjim has a thread on it - worth reading.

Don Verna

[Avenger442]

Thanks Don for the other suggestions. I've not seen any of the methods I may try that do not have their short comings. As you know PC is not there yet for hunting. In my limited investigation it looks like it might be good for paper shooters. While I have heard of PP I have not looked into it. Will do so later, I've had people tell me it was not worth it. If normal lubes would let me reload without the mess, aggravation and cost maybe. If casting and shooting in my rifles doesn't work out I'm still going to cast for the pistols. I've already become addicted to melting lead and making those nice little pills. They feel so good when you hold them.

I probably shoot 200-300 rounds a year in practice with the 308 and 30-06, reloaded ammo. Would shoot more if I could find and afford the components / ammo. Hoping casting can give some relief in these two areas. If not will go back to jacket. I also use a 44 magnum lever action. Some of the areas I hunt in are not likely to give me a 100 yard shot and have lots of obstacles to shoot around and sometimes through and this gun is good there. It looks like this gun may be the best candidate to start loading HT for.

I've been reading this thread for some time. In all that has been said about HT I have not seen anyone explain why this coating/stain/lubricant will not at some point give the same accuracy as any other coating/stain/lubricant in rifles. Is it the pressure, length of time in the barrel, sealing of the barrel (properties that some conventional lubes have), is the lubricating just too good (loss of pressure)....? Until I see or hear a well explained why I'm going to assume that HT can be as accurate in rifles as it has been shown to be in handguns.

Want to say this a great forum for newbies. Most of the people here are a civil bunch of folks. Have seen very little flaming or ignoring those of us who don't have years of experience in casting. Any forum that has it's own "Our Chapel" has the right mission.

[Love Life]

I say that the quality of the cast boolit, and the design, are limiting factors. I believe a large bearing surface bullet with no sharp shouldered front drive band will be the ticket.

[popper]

Avenger - it's not that you need hard for hunting but for fps. The HiTek has worked for 357Mag rifle, but NOT any faster, with any accuracy. My 30/30 & 308 got coating in the bbl @ > 1300. You might get there with 250+ gr. boolits @ 1500 fps in your 06 or 303 & some of the newer HiTek coatings.

As you know PC is not there yet for hunting
Incorrect, don't know where you get this idea. Search the hunting thread and see what has been done (PC 44mag pistol for one). Don't think anyone has done a 300 yd cast PC'd shot on deer yet, @ <2000 fps? Don't think anyone has really wanted to try it with normal lube cast either. Not flaming, your comments and concepts don't jive with reality.
Please post your results.

[220]

I've been reading this thread for some time. In all that has been said about HT I have not seen anyone explain why this coating/stain/lubricant will not at some point give the same accuracy as any other coating/stain/lubricant in rifles. Is it the pressure, length of time in the barrel, sealing of the barrel (properties that some conventional lubes have), is the lubricating just too good (loss of pressure)....? Until I see or hear a well explained why I'm going to assume that HT can be as accurate in rifles as it has been shown to be in handguns.

I hate to say it but I don't think you will ever get a cast boolit to shoot as well as J word at full velocities in high intensity rifle cartridges regardless of lube or coating used.
Having said that HT has produced the best groups I have ever shot with cast in the rifles I have tried it in so in my opinion it will shoot at least as well as any other lube on a cast boolit. I haven't tried PC or paper patching.
I still haven't really pushed things but with velocities to around 2000fps I'm getting groups about 1/3-1/2 larger than I do with J word.

[Ausglock]

I do the Lee 210rnfp 44 mag bullet for handgun and lever rifle with 2 coats of red/copper or Gold 1035. Works fine in both guns. S&W M29 6" barrel for Met sil shooting is fun on rams at 200 yards.
Marlin lever gun in 44 is pushing the pills at 1800fps and accuracy is better than jacketed. Barrel stays clean and shiny.

[Moonman]

I've got some GOLD 1035 and BRICK RED materials to coat with
coming from Donnie at Bayou Bullets.

Looking forward to seeing this GLITTERING GOLD.

Told him I'm in for ZOMBIE GREEN POWDER when
his order finally arrives.

[Ausglock]

Mm.
HI-TEK Joe was saying that he received some blue ingredients yesterday in the mail. He is going to do his voodoo magic and send me some samples to try. I really hope these stay blue and don't go black like the other blues did.

[220]

Don't think anyone has done a 300 yd cast PC'd shot on deer yet, @ <2000 fps? Don't think anyone has really wanted to try it with normal lube cast either.

About to start work on a 200y HT deer load with my son.
278 275gr FP GC arrived this week, given we have had some success with 222 and a GC boolit at a touch over 2000fps I think we should be able to get 5" @ 200y from 375H&H, will have a usable 200y deer load if we can.

No trouble to get to max velocities from pistol cal lever actions with enough accuracy to take advantage of their full range.
Cant get my 357 to shoot quite as well with 180gr cast as it does with 158 J word, but a 180gr at 1550fps with 4moa accuracy will still take care of most things.
Got my son to test a few more loads the other day. I don't know if it was him or just coincidence but with the 5 loads tested 4 of them kept the first 4 shots under 2 moa with the 5th almost doubling the group size. No cleaning between groups and it did it consistently so Im blaming the shooter.

[Liberty'sSon]

Ausglock, I've got a few questions about the Breville oven. Thought I'd ask them here as others might benefit too.
Can or do you use more than the one rack it came with? I'd like to order more and run two racks if not three.
Which function setting works best? Based on reading the manual it looks like the bake function would work best for baking coating.
It appears from the manual that the countdown timer doesn't start counting down until the set temp is reached. Is this so and if so does it alter the cook time you choose? It also appears that the heat elements shut down when the time counts down to zero. Is this so?
Any other tips you could offer on the Breville would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Liberty

[BMac]

Need assistance. First time coating with Hi Tek, first coat of 124s 9mm.
How does my first coat and color look?
I'm thinking a little thick and baked a little hot?
Thanks

[BMac]

Sorry, Red Copper is my color ;)

[Liberty'sSon]

Bmac, yep definitely too thick. Looks a little over cooked too. How long did you cook? Did the coating flake when you smashed a bullet?

[BMac]

Used about a tablespoon. Baked for 10 minutes turning 180 at thw halfway mark. Need to find a way to measure consistently.
Hammer test was great, no flaking, good adhesion and flexibility.

[220]

Im using a breville oven, I use the bake function, I don't put them in until it has reached temp, then just use the count down function.
It does shut down at the end of the time but if you leave them in it will over cook them as it takes time for the temp to drop.
I put the next batch in straight away, doesn't seem to loose much temp pulling out one batch and putting the next in and the countdown will start as soon as you reset the time.
Only using the middle rack my trays are small and 2 fit nicely on one rack bit over 5lb of boolits per bake.
I guess you could use more than 1 rack but the more boolits you put in the longer it will take to get them up to the cure temp and keep it there for long enough for the HT to cure properly. You would have to play with bake times to see what worked.

[jwber]

I might have to try this or dry tumble PC.

How much does the HI-Tek kit cost?

[BMac]

I just bought a liter which is enough for 22k for $85 shipped.

[Gateway Bullets]

I might have to try this or dry tumble PC.

How much does the HI-Tek kit cost?

jwbr,

Check out my site for pricing. gatewaybullets.com

[Ausglock]

I don't use the Breville oven.
I'd suggest only baking 1 tray at a time. these small ovens really don't have the power to correctly bake any more than that.
Bmac. Looks far too thick to me.

Take note of a post back a few pages.

For 250, 9mm bullets use 5 to 6mls of coating mixed 5.1.7.

Spoons are for eating, not really for measuring this stuff. 10 or 12 minutes bake time. this will depend on your oven.
200Deg C.
Thin coat is far better than thick. Ensure you do not bake too soon after coating. Warm the bullets to just above ambient temp. Don't use too much heat to pre-warm them, or you will get failures
All the above work. And have been working for me for over 12 months. I have learnt the hard way by doing, failing, doing again, winning, etc etc over and over again.
I'm currently 1/2 way through baking 5000 9mm pills. Having lunch and shortly, back to it. I'll be sizing as I'm coating and baking.

[popper]

Marlin lever gun in 44 is pushing the pills at 1800fps and accuracy is better than jacketed Start load for jacketed.

some success with 222 and a GC boolit at a touch over 2000fps I think several have gotten here with the 22 cal.

180gr at 1550fps with 4moa accuracy will still take care of most things. reasonable for < 100
You all need to be posting in Don's accuracy thread. Why? Cause we need to know realistic performance/limits to the HiTek. $85 US is a lot for an 'experiment'. Don't take my remarks as being flames, not my intention. Lots of people sitting on the fence waiting for factual data.

[Moonman]

Liberty'sSon,

I only coat for handguns.

Breville oven ONE RACK ONLY, I set mine on Bake at 400F degrees presently, (390F sometimes).
I have its running time at 2 hours, and just switch trays at time baked.
Oven is preheated before I place the first tray inside.

Time runs 10 to 12 minutes per tray, leave the temp alone.
Vary your time until results work for your oven, your bullet amount
and weights, ambient temp, AND COLOR YOU ARE USING.
"KEEP NOTES."

I use a 5/1/7 Acetone mix, 1st coat I use 2.5 ml per 3 pound
Tumble/Swirl Lube batch (plastic container), 2nd coat 3.5 ml per
3 pound batch. (I USE 5/1/7 MIX FOR REGULAR OR METALLIC COLORS.)
I measure with small measuring spoon sizes.

I DRY EACH TRAY OVERNIGHT, it needs to be REALLY DRY, not just to the touch dry.
Moisture under the coating/staining NEEDS TO DRY OUT or you'll have a failure probably.
USE GOOD ACETONE, or problems can develope.

Ausglock mixes up COMMERCIAL AMOUNTS, he's a casting/coating/baking machine.

I'm presently running 105 grain SWC, 148 DEWC, 158 SWC, 230 grain 45's.
3 TO 5 POUNDS or so per baking batch. (different sized Hardware Cloth baking pans)

Some vendors sell 1/2 liter sizes at $35/$36 PLUS SHIPPING & INS. (it coats thousands projectiles)

BMac,
WAY TOO MUCH COATING FOR FIRST COAT.
It should not BE COATED, just a light staining on the first coat,
Just seeing a LITTLE COLOR is what you want.

***** Coating DOES NOT have to completely cover the lube grooves to work.
Commercial Coaters do that FOR APPEARANCE REASONS to their customers.
Looks better to the customer, it also uses up more material than needed for
the home caster/coater.

[Ausglock]

What Mm said.

Light first coat will solve 99% of all the problems people have with this coating.
Playing with bake time will solve the other 1%.
Leave the temp at 200Deg C. don't change it.

Just a note.... Redrockant had smash issues if he left bullets overnight and coated the next day. He lives right on the coast. It would seem that the salty night sea air was leaving a film on the uncoated bullets. He now cast and coats and doesn't leave any bullets lying around overnight.

This info might come in handy for someone else..

[220]

You all need to be posting in Don's accuracy thread. Why? Cause we need to know realistic performance/limits to the HiTek. $85 US is a lot for an 'experiment'. Don't take my remarks as being flames, not my intention. Lots of people sitting on the fence waiting for factual data.

Have put a couple of posts up, haven't quite made the 2moa at 2000fps, 222 is close over 2000fps but 2-3moa, I guess I could just pick the best groups and claim I had made it but to me unless a rifle will consistently shoot a group size then I don't think it counts.
My marlin 357 is a perfect example, with J word I shot a 5 shot group at 100y that went a touch over 1/2", the average of 4, 5 shot groups was closer to 2" it will average around 2" with J word loads it likes so I consider it a 2moa rifle. Don't consider the 357 as a medium game rifle beyond 100 anyway so quite happy with a genuine 4moa average more so when I know its putting 80% of its shots into half that size.
I'm really looking forward to seeing what velocity and accuracy we can get out of 375H&H.
I honestly think you can achieve as good if not better accuracy with HT than any other lube. The limiting factor is going to be the boolit and the HT baking process eliminating any hardness from water dropping and the ability to heat treat

$80 might seem expensive but when you look at it as $0.003 per boolit it is cheap.

BMac

I use medicine measuring cups, the little ones that hold about 30ml for measuring cough syrup etc, 2.5ml increasements on the scale so easy enough to measure within 1/2ml.

[popper]

I honestly think you can achieve as good if not better accuracy with HT than any other lube. The limiting factor is going to be the boolit and the HT baking process eliminating any hardness from water dropping and the ability to heat treat That has been my experience.

unless a rifle will consistently shoot a group size then I don't think it counts. I agree. Unfortunately I'm not a consistent shooter.
I think DVerna started the thread for successes but actually posting valid attempts and failure is good info. We know HITek stuff works for pistol and maybe 357, 44mag, 30/30 low to mid fps. So far, not HV rifle. So the real question is whether HT is good for low fps 'brush' hunting and paper punching? I got the dark green 'pistol' rated HT and it works great, maybe I made a mistake. I'm holding off on the red/copper & new stuff until I see evidence it will work for my shooting. Like LL & others say, stick to what works till you find something better. I want my boolits to go where I point them and not have a 'mind of their own'.

[jakec]

Just a note.... Redrockant had smash issues if he left bullets overnight and coated the next day. He lives right on the coast. It would seem that the salty night sea air was leaving a film on the uncoated bullets. He now cast and coats and doesn't leave any bullets lying around overnight.

This info might come in handy for someone else..

i think this might have been happening to me also. if i coat after letting them dry for an hour or so it does perfect. if i let them "dry" overnight they dont coat worth a ****. i live near the beach so maybe thats why. i think its far more important on the first coat than second. if the first coat isnt right nothing will stick. when i get the first coat right ive never lost any from messing up the second coat, even overcooking or too thick coat. the color might be off but theyrun great.

[redrockant]

i think this might have been happening to me also. if i coat after letting them dry for an hour or so it does perfect. if i let them "dry" overnight they dont coat worth a ****. i live near the beach so maybe thats why. i think its far more important on the first coat than second. if the first coat isnt right nothing will stick. when i get the first coat right ive never lost any from messing up the second coat, even overcooking or too thick coat. the color might be off but theyrun great.
Mine is only a hypothesis. Interesting you seemed to have the same issue and we both live near the beach.
As everyone says get a perfect thin first coat and the rest will be forgiving

[BMac]

Thin first coat, would anyone suggest 4/1/10, for the first coat and then 4/1/7 for 2nd ?

[Moonman]

BMac,

The Color/Catalyst ratio needs to remain at 5 to 1.
You can add more Acetone to the mixture to thin it out.
Original mixes were 5/1/5 ratio, some started using 5/1/7 ratio, which is what I use.
Some people went to a 5/1/10 ratio with the RED-COPPER color to help the coatings
appearance. (less thick and bumpy looking.) I've never used that color as I coat for
lower velocity handguns.

[BMac]

Thanks moonman.

[BMac]

Does anyone have photos of the copper red?
Thinking mine are too dark, to hot or to much coating.
103216

[Moonman]

BMac,

Back on page 32 of this thread, post #632, Ausglock speaks of using 5/1/15 ACETONE ratio, super thin.
The extra Acetone will flash off.

[jakec]

Bmac i like the dark red better!

[Ausglock]

Bmac, That isn't red copper.
103236
This is Red/copper 2 coats at 5.1.10.

Stay with 5.1. mix. If you start playing around with 4.1 etc etc. you throw out all the ratios.
If it ain't broke, don't fix it.

[BMac]

Ausglock, thanks for all the info.
I think I need to bump to 10, as the temperature is getting hotter each day.

[jimbo1950]

Bmac, That isn't red copper.
103236
This is Red/copper 2 coats at 5.1.10.

Stay with 5.1. mix. If you start playing around with 4.1 etc etc. you throw out all the ratios.
If it ain't broke, don't fix it.
That is exactly what mine look like, 5/1/10 first coat,5/1/7 second or third coat,10 min @375.
If i knew how to post pictures from my IPAD i would post pictures of my bullets.
TO get a smooth finish i swirl untill coated and dump on screen while still wet.
If you swirl untill noise changes the finish may be rough and clumpy. There still may be small amount of liquid in container,but they coat well.
I dry them in the Florida sun for 1 hour and they are ready for sizing and second coat.

When i started i was trying to get too much color on first coat,and were too coated too thick..every rooking mistake. First coat looks terrible, but it adheres very well, no red copper color and and very thin.
Second coat adds the red copper color and look great, thin third coat to help fill groves if you like them to look perfect (which i do)
I probably wasted 1k bullets before getting my procedure correct, now it is a breeze to coat them!

The end product load easily,and shoot great! NO LEADING!

[BMac]

Jimbo, thanks for the advice. I like the idea of sizing between coats.

[jimbo1950]

Jimbo, thanks for the advice. I like the idea of sizing between coats.

You are welcome! When you size after first coat they do not need any lube to go thru sizer,and the slip thru the Lee sizers easily. Sizing after first coat will not remove any of the coating if first coat adheres properly.
Any issues that i have had all relate back to first coating that was not done properly!

Happy Hi Tecking!!

[jimbo1950]

You are welcome! When you size after first coat they do not need any lube to go thru sizer,and the slip thru the Lee sizers easily. Sizing after first coat will not remove any of the coating if first coat adheres properly.
Any issues that i have had all relate back to first coating that was not done properly!

Happy Hi Tecking!!

Also be sure your sizing dies do not have any lube from sizing lubed bullets when sizing coated bullets!!!! Clean all old lube out of dies first! I made that mistake... once!http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/04/27/ememyqu7.jpg
first coat baked

[BMac]

Anyone try mixing hbn with HT for the last coat?
I've done it with PC but want in nggdsoevoy to try it with HT

[jimbo1950]

Also be sure your sizing dies do not have any lube from sizing lubed bullets when sizing coated bullets!!!! Clean all old lube out of dies first! I made that mistake... once!http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/04/27/ememyqu7.jpg
first coat baked

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/04/27/8a5ybuzu.jpg

Second coat baked
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/04/27/qymezuqe.jpg

[jimbo1950]

Just figured out how to post pics using tapatalk from IPAD, real easy!

[BMac]

Thanks Jimbo, what mold do you have for the 9mm without the grease groove?

[Ausglock]

Bmac. You don't need any hbn or anything else with the HI-TEK coating. It works just as it is.
HI-TEK Joe has already put all his 11 secret Herbs & Spices in the coating. You don't need to add any more.
Joe is the Col. Sanders of the cast bullet world.

Jimbo. Mate. Nice job. Bloody good looking bullet ya got there. Outstanding work.

[jimbo1950]

Thanks Jimbo, what mold do you have for the 9mm without the grease groove?

BMAC, that is a Mihec mold 6 cavity 124 grain round flat. It is the best mold i ever cast with!

Check group buys,as it is still on there and Mihec may have some of this mold still available.
Hope you can get one as you will love it, makes nice bullets!!

AUSGLOK, thanks for the complement, i learned how to do it from your posts!!
I read all your posts,and follow your expertise,and advice in the coating process!

If everyone did it your way,everyones bullets would be perfect!

Thanks again
Jim

[Ausglock]

No worries. Glad to help.

[jimbo1950]

Thanks Jimbo, what mold do you have for the 9mm without the grease groove?

BMAC, that is a Mihec mold 6 cavity 124 grain round flat. It is the best mold i ever cast with!

Check group buys,as it is still on there and Mihec may have some of this mold still available.
Hope you can get one as you will love it, makes nice bullets!!

AUSGLOK, thanks for the complement, i learned how to do it from your posts!!
I read all your posts,and follow your expertise,and advice in the coating process!

If everyone did it your way,everyones bullets would be perfect!

Thanks again
Jim

[BMac]

Thanks everyone, got to unload a few today, clean barrel and dead on. I'm shooting a local IDPA match tomorrow so I loading up now.
Cheers

[Moonman]

From the looks in the mixing bottle, this BRICK RED is going to be

REALLY BRIGHT

[Redwoode]

Like to see some finished if you'd post a pic.

Thanks, Arnell

[HI-TEK]

Anyone try mixing hbn with HT for the last coat?
I've done it with PC but want in nggdsoevoy to try it with HT

If you wish to increase slip and ease sizing loads, it may be better to use the "Extreme" versions of catalysts.
Only if required, these "Extreme Catalyst versions" are specifically designed to add beneficial properties to the same coatings .
For most applications, the standard catalyst should be OK.
For some, they may need extra benefits, especially if trying to size harder alloys, or drastically reduce diameters of harder alloys.
Coatings done, using extreme style catalysts, significantly reduce loads during sizing.
You can use normal catalyst for first coat.
On second or final coats, you can use the Extreme catalyst version, and this should provide all the additional benefits that may be required.
If you dont wish to have two different coating mixtures , simply use standard catalyst on one lot, then, on another batch, use the Extreme catalyst versions.
Then simply compare your results. You can then decide which works for your applications.
Using various catalysts may be far easier, and possibly cheaper, and should achieve desired results.
Would be interested in your findings and comments.

[gunoil]

Hi-tek-supercoat B-B-Q with chistmas colors today. Layer em in colors in a vase, she will let you put em in the house. Stick some plastic flowers in the top of the thing. Hehehe. Glad i didnt have to buy all that. About 1500.

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k511/putt2012/null_zpsb347770d.jpg





The early bird may get the worm, but the second mouse gets the cheese.

[gunoil]

You ladies and gentlemen may want one of these Hardline industries molds. If ya want quality of heat transfer. I put the old handle on it.

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k511/putt2012/null_zps18c87b84.jpg

115gr no lube groves. Post above this one. I shoot em in glock42 & Kahr cm9.

[Michael J. Spangler]

This was a 358495 that smacked a rock on the berm at 30 yards.
http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll105/MJSpangler/Grips/CB7DC7C9-2C8A-450C-BE20-A123B4E7492F_zps3auaanbe.jpg (http://s286.photobucket.com/user/MJSpangler/media/Grips/CB7DC7C9-2C8A-450C-BE20-A123B4E7492F_zps3auaanbe.jpg.html)
And this was a 454-200 MP hollow point that suffered the same fate
http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll105/MJSpangler/Grips/280A74DA-EA2A-4441-9E4C-D876EAD0090D_zpsnomccusf.jpg (http://s286.photobucket.com/user/MJSpangler/media/Grips/280A74DA-EA2A-4441-9E4C-D876EAD0090D_zpsnomccusf.jpg.html)

Both cast from 50/50 COWW and Pure. Coated with 2 coats of hi-tek gold.
It's amazing how far this stuff can stretch out and bend and still stay on the bullet.

[Moonman]

Mike,

That sure beats the HAMMER SMASH.

gunoil,

I do believe I recognize that mold.

[HI-TEK]

Hi-tek-supercoat B-B-Q with chistmas colors today. Layer em in colors in a vase, she will let you put em in the house. Stick some plastic flowers in the top of the thing. Hehehe. Glad i didnt have to buy all that. About 1500.

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k511/putt2012/null_zpsb347770d.jpg





The early bird may get the worm, but the second mouse gets the cheese.

They are great.
The only ones you are missing, is the Texas Tea Black, Candy Apple Red, Zombie Green, Brown Copper, Glitter Bronze coloured projectiles.
That would complete your festive colours.. and please all...lol..lol..

[Ausglock]

Umm... Brown Copper needs to be renamed Copperhead.
Gunslick. I'm getting a Hardline 45 230gn RN mold.
But I want the spru plate drilled for the lee handle.

Do the Lee 6 cav handles fit the hardline molds?

[Redwoode]

I have a Lee handle on mine. One side of the handle needed a few strokes on top with a hand file for everything to hinge smoothly. The other side worked fine as is.

[BMac]

Help needed, LEADING issue.
Cast using Lee 256-124 6 pack w/tumble grooves, using COWW with a bhn of 11+. Coating with Red Copper 5-1-9 mix (used fingernail polish remover, coming clean up front:) ). # thin coats, dried 15 min, set on top of the toaster oven in a wire rack basket to warm with the TO got to temp. Baked 10 minutes @ 400 (400 not tested), cooled coated, baked again, sized and coating and baked one more time, good color and good finish. Loaded with a 4.5gn Autocomp, not a puff load, but not full strength.
So the load is this.
.356
4.5gn autocomp
Sellier and bellot primers
OAL 1.125
Med taper crimp.
If I had to guess I would say they feel like 900fps.
Shot from a Glock 34 with a wolf barrel.
My problem is after 30 rounds, I stripped it, ran a bore snake a few times, and LEADING. Shot 200 rounds in 60 minutes (Working in Bill drills) and my barrel has leading in the grooves. I found that most of the leading was down from mid barrel to the crown.
I also had some smoke, not alox type smoke, but way more than copper plated.
I run this same cast with PC coated with zero leading.
Any assistance you guys would offer is greatly appreciated.103433

[farmerjim]

Most fingernail polish removers contain oil. Did the boolits pass the smash test? The oils would probably mess up the chemistry of the coating.

[BMac]

103436
Most fingernail polish removers contain oil. Did the boolits pass the smash test? The oils would probably mess up the chemistry of the coating.
Attached is a photo of the hammer test. Big framing hammer on concrete
The one on the left is ragged because it's been in my pocket for 4 days :)

[popper]

Actually acetone is sold straight as nail polish remover. Depends on what type you got Bmac. Smash test looks good so I assume it's the 3 coats that does it. Too thick coating that gives out, also the BHN wil be more like 8 until you let them set for a while to age harden. Get a thermometer. Over temp will also cause failure.

[BMac]

Actually acetone is sold straight as nail polish remover. Depends on what type you got Bmac. Smash test looks good so I assume it's the 3 coats that does it. Too thick coating that gives out, also the BHN wil be more like 8 until you let them set for a while to age harden. Get a thermometer. Over temp will also cause failure.

The nail polish remover has other ingredients (From the Walgreens website (acetone, , Water, , Propylene Carbonate, , Dimethyl Glutarate, , Dimethyl Succinate, , Dimethyl Adipate, , Glycerin, , Gelatin, , Fragrance, , Denatonium Benzoate, , D&C Yellow 11))
I am going to stop tonight and get a thermometer.

Thanks for the advice.

[jimbo1950]

The nail polish remover has other ingredients (From the Walgreens website (acetone, , Water, , Propylene Carbonate, , Dimethyl Glutarate, , Dimethyl Succinate, , Dimethyl Adipate, , Glycerin, , Gelatin, , Fragrance, , Denatonium Benzoate, , D&C Yellow 11))
I am go


ing to stop tonight and get a thermometer.

The red copper should not be that dark, cooked too long at wrong temperature i would think!





Thanks for the advice.

Good idea to stop and get some pure acetone also! I use acetone from wal mart.

[BMac]

Good idea to stop and get some pure acetone also! I use acetone from wal mart.
I picked some up at Ace HW today. :)

[Dystaxia]

Help needed, LEADING issue.
Cast using Lee 256-124 6 pack w/tumble grooves, using COWW with a bhn of 11+. Coating with Red Copper 5-1-9 mix (used fingernail polish remover, coming clean up front:) ). # thin coats, dried 15 min, set on top of the toaster oven in a wire rack basket to warm with the TO got to temp. Baked 10 minutes @ 400 (400 not tested), cooled coated, baked again, sized and coating and baked one more time, good color and good finish. Loaded with a 4.5gn Autocomp, not a puff load, but not full strength.
So the load is this.
.356
4.5gn autocomp
Sellier and bellot primers
OAL 1.125
Med taper crimp.
If I had to guess I would say they feel like 900fps.
Shot from a Glock 34 with a wolf barrel.
My problem is after 30 rounds, I stripped it, ran a bore snake a few times, and LEADING. Shot 200 rounds in 60 minutes (Working in Bill drills) and my barrel has leading in the grooves. I found that most of the leading was down from mid barrel to the crown.
I also had some smoke, not alox type smoke, but way more than copper plated.
I run this same cast with PC coated with zero leading.
Any assistance you guys would offer is greatly appreciated.

You're not going to like my answer.

I had these EXACT same problems, and I messed around with it for 2 months. 9mm and 45acp were both leading. As soon as a dumped the "tumble lube" design and bought a traditional "lube groove" - all the problems went away. I'll save you the money, and tell you to skip the "lube groove" and go straight to the "no lube groove" design. Much easier to cast, and they look better too!


Here's my reference awhile back:
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?204174-simple-Hi-Tek-coating&p=2456728#post2456728

[BMac]

You're not going to like my answer.

I had these EXACT same problems, and I messed around with it for 2 months. 9mm and 45acp were both leading. As soon as a dumped the "tumble lube" design and bought a traditional "lube groove" - all the problems went away. I'll save you the money, and tell you to skip the "lube groove" and go straight to the "no lube groove" design. Much easier to cast, and they look better too!


Here's my reference awhile back:
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?204174-simple-Hi-Tek-coating&p=2456728#post2456728

D, your right, I am not going to like your answer LOL. I just yesterday put another new lee mold into service, heck it's only 42 bucks, fleabay here I come.
Tell me, which mold did you purchase?

[Ausglock]

Ditch the nail polish remover and use GOOD QUALITY Acetone or MEK.
The smash test looks ok, But will fail when put under pressure.
Try standing a bullet on it's base and smash it nose first. turn it into a coin and look around the circumfrence for flaking.
Remember.... no shortcuts. Use what is tried and proven.
TL will work fine. I use that bullet in a G34 with factory barrel with no issues.

[BMac]

Ditch the nail polish remover and use GOOD QUALITY Acetone or MEK.
The smash test looks ok, But will fail when put under pressure.
Try standing a bullet on it's base and smash it nose first. turn it into a coin and look around the circumfrence for flaking.
Remember.... no shortcuts. Use what is tried and proven.
TL will work fine. I use that bullet in a G34 with factory barrel with no issues.

Ausglock, what type of molds are you running? Goove, micro groove, no groove?

[Dystaxia]

D, your right, I am not going to like your answer LOL. I just yesterday put another new lee mold into service, heck it's only 42 bucks, fleabay here I come.
Tell me, which mold did you purchase?

There are a couple to choose from:

http://www.accuratemolds.com/bullet_detail.php?bullet=35-115Z-D.png

https://www.hardlineindustries.com/9mm.html

They don't have them listed, but I think you can get a custom one, price seems decent:
http://kainemolds.com/ocart/index.php?route=product/category&path=20_66

[Ausglock]

I use every type of mold. Groove. Grooveless . TL. You name it. All work fine with HI-TEK coating.

[kweidner]

I had a leading issue with a tumble groove PRIOR to my Brevilles. I haven't had a chance to revisit them yet. I feel certain it wouldn't be an issue now. My stores prefer the RN design in the 40 so that's what I cast and load. I am so busy with the proven ones for me. I am not doing as many as Ausglock only about 5k per week currently as I am loading ammo too. If my tractor would ever sell I would cast thousands a day with a caster LOL. My favorite are no lube designs. I have a 41 -200z that I had Tom design for me in brass. My favorite mold as is both of my 41 mags. I really like the way they just fall out.

[BMac]

Casting a new batch tonight :)
It's the journey, right?

[BMac]

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/04/29/e9y9ury6.jpg