My Latest Orphan!

[seagiant]

Hi,
Just picked this up on our favorite auction site!

[mh38sp]

Got a pair my self

[Alvarez Kelly]

It looks like you might be missing a part or two... :-)

[seagiant]

Hi Brian,
Yep...the quest continues! I have a extra set of slides and a rail I got when I bought Randy's press. Should be able to use those and make a loader for my 41 Mag. What parts Dave does not carry at CH4D,I will have to make! Part of the fun for me!

[44Vaquero]

I was watching that one and for some reason I figured you were bidding on it!

[W.R.Buchanan]

Greg: We were talking about coming up with a different mechinism for the shuttle activation. This would be a good opportunity to try this since you are missing the shuttle advance anyway.

I'm thinking a bellcrank mounted somewhere on The left end of the machine. AS the platen moves down the shuttle would be pulled to the left and as the platen went up it would advance the cartridges. NO springs

The ratio of the bell crank would be the distance the platen moves versus the distance the shuttle moves. It would look like and upside down "L" with the long leg horizontal and the short leg vertical. Maybe using small throttle ball joint linkages to connect the platen to the bellcrank and shuttle.

The elevation of the pivot for the bellcrank would be at the middle of the platens travel. The pivot could be hung off an arm attached to the case feeder block.

This would work and I am starting to develop a pretty decent picture of the whole mess in my head. I will draw something up and send it to you.

Measure the actual platen travel and shuttle travel on one of the running machines and I can draw the bellcrank to scale.

Randy

[seagiant]

Hi Randy,
We can get together on it. I'm just happy I have the extra rails and slide that I got from you when I bought your machine. I still want to try the clevis pre-load trick with some nylon washers and a nylock nut to preload the clevis!

I looked at the parts available Dave has at CH4D and I might have to make a few things. Some idiot dropped the loader on the front right corner and I'm going to have to fix that.Probably have to fly cut the front,top,and side a hair to get it out after smacking the top down to get as much metal as I can back to it's original position! Stuff like that just bugs me! No respect for machinery!

[Crosbyman]

I have a auto champ that I got in a trade that I will do nothing with. It is fairly clean, has some king of bullet feeder. PM if interested.

[texassako]

I almost bid on that. Common sense got the better of me for once when I checked what parts were available. I am glad someone picked it up that can fix it.

[W.R.Buchanan]

Greg: Take a hammer and toonce the displaced metal from that ding back where it came from as much as possible.

If you fly cut the top of that plate it will warp. Take the plates and do a figure eight pattern on sandpaper stuck to your surface plate or something half way flat. I use WD40 to stick wet or dry to my surface plate to flat lap parts. Jitterbug afterwards for consistant finish.

Did you understand the concept and finer points of the bellcrank operating system? I did realize you might have to read it more than a few times to extract all of the concept, when I wrote it...

What is there would work, it is just a matter of finalizing a few details.

There would be no snap back whatsoever. The slide would advance and retract at whatever rate you moved the main handle. I never thought of this untill I saw the Green machine on Youtube working and saw how the slide moved back like it was mechanically controlled.

I don't understand why they didn't do this on the production machines it is not to hard to think up, but I have to admit that I had the thing for several years and didn't think of it until two years after I sold it to you!

It's weird how solutions to some problems take long times to come to fruition.But they do come ,,,,Eventually.

Randy

[seagiant]

Hi,
Just trying to learn,but why would the plate warp from fly cutting it a few thou???

[W.R.Buchanan]

Greg; when you break the surface tension on one side of rolled material the stresses from the other side cause it to warp in the direction of the uncut side. You then have to put it in the vise with the other side up, take a cut to relieve the tension on the other side, and then go back to the first side and recut it. Then the plate will be flat again. With thinner pieces of material you can clamp it in the vise and then smack it with a dead blow to flaten it against the parrallels and then take your cut . On thicker material it won't bend the plate, so you have to do the relief on each side and then the finish cut on he first side.

Also the shape of your flycutter tool matters. A round cutting edge will influence the material less than a sharp pointed tool.

I have seen a piece of 1x3 aluminum 8" long bow .020 in the center!

Also your holes will not be exactly at 90 degrees to the surface of the plate any more.

Usually you will do this first and then drill the holes. Your holes are already in the plate, and more than likely the guide bushings for the rods won't line up right. It would only take a few thou of deflection to do this.

You need to be aware that it can, and will happen. Just one of those fine points that you learn by trial and error. This is why I get Blanchard Ground Cast Alumnum Tooling Plate to make things that need to be flat. The stresses are already removed from the material before you start. On odd pieces where I have to make several, or many parts, I will send the material out to be ground to size so I don't have to cope with warpage.

All of those plates I mount my machines on are Blanchard ground tooling plate. Notice the surface finish, they all have swirls where the wheel contacted the material. I bought the materials precision Ground to size so all I had to do was drill and tap holes in them and the parts were done. Saved a bunch of time and the parts came out much better than if I had spent a bunch of time squaring the material up from bar stock or regular plate. The difference in cost was not even 10% more than just plain bar stock or plate, and I saved way more than that in time by not having to do a bunch of work brfore I started drilling holes.

If I was duplicating the Auto Champ I would make the platen and base out of this material.

I'm going to bed now cuz I had a tough day racing at LeMans. Have more to finish the race tomorrow.

Randy

[seagiant]

Hi Randy,
Thanks for the explanation! Makes sense now that I think about it! Was not even aware of the material you mentined! In my job everything is ready to go pretty much as far as parts. We don't really have time or man power any more to make things onboard. I measured main engine con-rod bearing thicknesses yesterday but just to make sure we had the right parts that were ordered, then they were labeled and stocked ready to go on a rebuild.

Although we have a Bridgeport mill and a 13" Southbend lathe in the machine shop and they are about 30 years old, they have actually seen little use!

[W.R.Buchanan]

Greg: sent you an email with a drawing of the shuttle actuation mechinism. See what you think.

Randy

[seagiant]

Hi,
PM sent!