SP-101 intensive cleaning required

[Ickisrulz]

I have an SP-101 in 357 magnum. I only shoot 38 Specials through it (tumble lubed wadcutters/4.0 grains Unique). I find if I shoot any more than 150 rounds without cleaning the cylinder/crane, I end up with a very stiff revolver--the cylinder becomes extremely hard to rotate.

I'm not opposed to cleaning the gun, but it would seem to me the thing should function even if I shot a few hundred rounds between cleanings. In the manual, Ruger claims shooting cast bullets will require more frequent cleaning to avoid this very problem. What is it about lead bullets that causes this? My ammo doesn't seem excessively dirty. Any ideas?

[44Vaquero]

A small amount of lead vaporizes and escapes out the cylinder gap and the high pressure forces the particles into all the nooks and crannies. The tolerances of those parts requires a more frequent cleaning interval. My S&W .357's Crane and Cylinder do the same thing after about 250-300 rounds.

Also, What powder are you using? Some are dirtier than others.

[Ickisrulz]

A small amount of lead vaporizes and escapes out the cylinder gap and the high pressure forces the particles into all the nooks and crannies. The tolerances of those parts requires a more frequent cleaning interval. My S&W .357's Crane and Cylinder do the same thing after about 250-300 rounds.

Also, What powder are you using? Some are dirtier than others.

Unique...4 grains.

[LouisianaMan]

Also, shooting a shorter cartridge in a longer cylinder is notorious for causing leading or fouling. The 38 SPL in a 357 cylinder is the most common example, but I have toyed around with 38 SC and 38 LC in a 38 SPL, 44 Russian in a 44 SPL, and had to watch out for this problem.

I keep a regular bore brush handy, with some strands from an all-copper Chore Boy scrubbing pad wound into the brush. Some Hoppe's no. 9 and a quick scrub & I'm good to go.

[theperfessor]

It could be the lube. I mostly use traditional soft lube and after about the same number of rounds you mention I have to put a little solvent (Hoppes) on the moving parts to loosen things up. As long as the gun is hot it works fine, set it down for a few minutes and it will cool off and get stiff.

[44Vaquero]

The Professor, is also correct I neglected to mention lube gumming things up too.

You might try moving to another powder, I prefer Bullseye. YMMV

[Ickisrulz]

I did think about the lube and the shorter 38 cases crossed my mind. It's just odd that when I take it apart there isn't a whole lot of stuff on the crane and cylinder. A wipe or two and it spins like a top.

[deepwater]

I have used .357 mag cases and loaded them down to mid range .38 sp. loads. Just make sure that the first bullet leaves the barrel!!! You can adjust the load in a .357 mag case to equal any .38 sp. velocitie. I used Unique because it enables the full spectrum of safe pressures and velocities. This eliminates many of the leading problems in the cylinder and puts the bullet closer to the forcing cone. This was the very first reloading I did, in a S&W 4" 66, in 1980.

deepwater

[btroj]

What are you lubing the cylinder/crane with?

I have used many oils and greases with good results. One thing that works great is STP oil treatment.

I can clean my GP100 every 1500 to 2000 rounds and have no stickiness to the cylinder or crane motion.

[Ickisrulz]

Gunbutter or CLP.

[Outpost75]

Lube your bullets with 4 parts beeswax to 1 part automatic transmission fluid. Clean your gun with Ed's Red and also use straight ATF for gun oil. You will have no binding issues. I use Saeco #348 and 9 grs. of #2400 in my SP 101, 922 fps from 2" barrel, runs like a pony trotting and stone killer!

[TCFAN]

I have the same problem with my SP101 when using TL boolits with LLA. It is chamber in 38 special.It does not take very many rounds to get the gun all gummed up where the cylinder is hard to turn. On the other hand it shoots very well with these Lee 158 gr. TL SWC's .........Terry

[LUCKYDAWG13]

i have a sp101 357 no issues with it at all shooting cast i use white label lube C/R
i did have some crud get under the ejector star once when it was new

[Ickisrulz]

Next time I do a batch, I will use real lube instead of the LLA.

[MtGun44]

Try wiping or scrubbing the front face of the cyl when it stiffens up. If the
cyl gap is really tight, the normal lead and crud buildup can cause this.

A gunsmith friend that specializes in S&Ws will not set up a revolver with less than
about .005 or .006 if it will primarily be a lead boolit gun.

Bill

[rststeve]

I have the 4 inch sp101 which did the same thing. Locked up after 100 or so rounds. Not any more. Fire lapping does wonders. I have not cleaned it for over 700+ rounds now. Gun use to build up a thin layer of lead between cylinder and barrel causing it to lock up. Reaming the forcing cone to 11 degrees should also fix this issue. Trust me I struggled with this issue to long. One of these two fixes will go along way to making a good gun great.

[98Redline]

I have an SP-101 (3" .357) that does the exact same thing. I bought it around 1993 and it has done it since the very first day. If I shoot anything that is even mildly dirty (lead or not) the gun will get hard to turn by 50 rounds, and will be completely tied up by 75-100.

There is an acceptable barrel to cylinder gap and it is not getting tied up there. Additionally the face of the cylinder is square and the B/C gap is constant across all 5 chambers.

When I disassemble the gun after firing 75-100 rounds, I find that the cylinder is nearly seized on the crane. I normally need to squirt some Hoppes around the front of the crane and slowly work the cylinder back and forth to get it off. I typically find a pretty uniform layer of soot all the way around the front bearing surface on the crane.

Using a thicker grease (Mobil 1 grease) on the bearing surface between the cyl and crane, it keeps the gun working longer, but it will still tie up after about 120 rounds.

[rockshooter]

I have the same issues after 4-5 boxes of Remington 148gr HBWC, regardless of powder. I just get used to completely disassembling the cylinder/crane assembly and degumming it when it starts to get stuff. Squirting a little CLP will loosen it up a little but doesnt get to the root of the problem.
Loren

[mroliver77]

I keep a rag and eds red (or kroil)handy when shooting sticky guns. A little squirt and a quick wipe once in a while sure helps.

[robertbank]

Lube is the culprit with lead boolits along with powder residue. It doesn't have anything to do with lead vapourizing. Lead doesn't vapourize when you shoot lead boolits. Sorry but it doesn't.

Take Care

Bob

[btroj]

Try STP on the crane and cylinder pin. Works well for me. My GP can go a few thousand rounds without that kind of cleaning.

[Ickisrulz]

I finally was able to load up some wadcutters with real wax based lube. I used about 4.3 grains of Unique in 38 Special cases. I was able to shoot about 250 rounds before the cylinder got stiff. When I pulled it apart, there was lot of gunk on the crane assembly. So, the wax worked better for me than the Alox. I will next try some 357 cases and see how that does.

[Ickisrulz]

Now I am using 357 cases and don't see much of an improvement over the 38 cases as far as cleanliness goes. I have tried 4227, 2400 and Unique. Not much of a difference in any of them. I guess this is they way things are going to be. I still like the SP-101 though.

[GP100man]

It`s the loobe !!

I use 3 different lubes & they all act differently as far as gummin up the cyl on my sp .
It`s an early 1 , short framed 38spc, & the cyl slides off the crane ,the newer 1 don`t.

I believethe specs are titer on the later & does`nt allow crude to blow into the bearing surfaces.
My GPs take it all in stride, seems.

[John Allen]

Same thing most have said. I keep a rag and wipe the front of the cylinder once and while. I never have the problem if I do this.

[rockshooter]

I just picked up an ultrasonic cleaner to see if that would help. What seems to work best for me so far is lubing the crane/cylinder area with grease- sort of like on a BP pistol. That seems to keep stuff moister and looser longer. The real trick with the GP100s I shoot is to not lose the little spring that wants to pop out when I take the assembly apart. Basically, its something that comes with cast bullets, regardless of lube. I have a similar issue with S&W revolvers and cast bullets.
Loren

[robertbank]

Of the powders you list none of them are particularly clean shooting in a revolver from my experience. For IDPA shooting 158 gr lead boolits at avg factory loading I find 2.8 gr pf Clays to be about as clean burning as one can expect using lead boolits. Clays is much cleaner than Unique and 231. The latter turns my SS GP 100 into a poorly blued revolver in about 100 rds.

Other than the cylinder ring one gets from using 38spl cases in the .357Mag I haven`t found much difference between 38spl and .357 cases frankly. Using plated bullets help some as you don`t get the burnt lube fouling from the lead boolits. For me cleaning my guns after a shoot or range session is all part of the experience. Lead away cloth certainly makes short work of the fouling found on the cylinder faces and around the outside of the forcing cone.

Take Care

Bob

[GP100man]

I agree with robertbank, all my low pressure rounds are loaded with CLAYS & the upper loads with a good dose of 2400/H110, I think the upper loads have enuff pressure to keep it all "blown"clean.

[Ickisrulz]

Same thing most have said. I keep a rag and wipe the front of the cylinder once and while. I never have the problem if I do this.

It is gunk on the crane not the front of the cylinder. Eventually I will try another bullet lube. I will try grease on the crane and ATF (at different times) and see if those help. I have no other powders to try...there's a shortage around here.

[robertbank]

It is gunk on the crane not the front of the cylinder. Eventually I will try another bullet lube. I will try grease on the crane and ATF (at different times) and see if those help. I have no other powders to try...there's a shortage around here.

Personally I would refraom from applying any lubricant on the crane. All it does is attract fouling. When shooting matches I will often go to a safety area and wipe under the extractor star and the crane shaft to remove any fouling. Unburned powder under the extractor star can bring things to a halt quickly.

Take Care

Bob

[Ickisrulz]

Personally I would refraom from applying any lubricant on the crane. All it does is attract fouling. When shooting matches I will often go to a safety area and wipe under the extractor star and the crane shaft to remove any fouling. Unburned powder under the extractor star can bring things to a halt quickly.

Take Care

Bob

Maybe, but Ruger does says to lightly lube it.

[44man]

I originated STP on revolvers. It keeps things working even with BP revolvers and still must have cleaning and new lube applied now and then. It will not be lead, it is powder residue and lubes.