1893 Spanish Mauser Question

[jjnpg317]

I got this weapon the other day and it was painted black. I'm getting the paint off with stripper, and the metal does have some pits on it under the paint but not enough to keep it from being shot. I've been trying to clean the inside of the barrel for five days but never run out of copper fouling with this barrel. Is this common ? Can I get a take off barrel (Ruger, Remington, ETC ) and replace it , or just keep on using Hoppe's copper cleaner ?
Thanks

[Cactus Farmer]

Keep cleaning. I'm assuming it's a 7X57? Great caliber. I have a 95 that had a cruddy bore but with a lot of elbow grease it cleaned up nicely. Shoots boolits pretty well too. It's one of my knock around guns. not one I let anyone borrow though. I have less desirable "rent" guns.

[shredder]

Try some wipeout. It really strips that fouling out fast. Also a good overnight soak with something like Ed's Red or hoppe's benchrest will help. Some of the old war horses were shot a LOT and cleaned very little over many many years.

[Ragnarok]

Small shank barrels...93 actions...not bad little guns.

Is this on a long-rifle or a M1916 short rifle?....Is it 7mm Mauser or 7.62 Cetme(.308)?

Personally..if the bore was basically good otherwise..I would just shoot and clean..shoot and clean..shoot and clean...

[atr]

not to be overly discouraging.....but....I had a spanish model 93 in 7x57...painted black with a cruddy bore....took forever to get the bore clean...lots of elbow grease...in the end I got ride of it because it wouldn't group at 25 yards with either cast or jacketed

[jjnpg317]

The rifle is 7x57 and has 1927 stamped by crest. I think it started as a long rifle & the barrel was cut back to 25". I've gotten most of the paint off but there is not a matching number anywhere on this rifle. They're all different.
First miltary rifle I've owned & I like it ! The more I handled it & discovered how simple they are to maintain , it began to grow on me. Cleaning the barrel is like gargling with peanut butter but I'll keep going until ready for boolits. Any suggestions on a current mold ? Never had a 7mm of any kind before.
Thanks

[Nickle]

Sweet's 7.62 Solvent and a lot of patches. Lots of ammonia in it, so don't let it sit in your barrel too long.

Iosso paste works some too.

[Hank10]

The 7mm mauser military barrels were chambered for a long 175 gr bullet so the throat is cut long and usually accuracy is better with a cast bullet like the Lyman 287308. I think they're still available. That's what I use in my 7x57.

[atr]

and mulling it over I have always been amazed at the difference in the barrels between the old military mausers and the old military enfields,,,I have had both and its always been the same...the mausers had sewer pipes for barrels while the enfields were always clean and shiny.....makes me wonder what was going on.

[Smokepole50]

A lot of south american 7x57 Mausers were rode hard and put away wet after shooting corrosive ammo. Add in a humid enviorment and you have the recipe for corrosion. If it has pitting on the outside of the barrel I would be surprised if in the end after hours of cleaning you don't find a pitted barrel on the inside under all that fouling. You might just want to polish what is already there, copper and all with some JB Bore Paste and see if the rifle will shoot well with jacketed bullets before you spend money and time trying to revive a dead horse.

[atr]

good Idea Smokepole,,,I used some diluted valve lapping compound and yes there was pitting on the inside of the barrel

[gwpercle]

Don't give up on it. My 93 7x57 had a barrel that looked like a rusted sewer pipe. I spent several sessions with bronze bore brush and rod and hoppes #9 and WWII surplus G.I. bore cleaner. Then wrapped brush with 0000 steel wool and coated steel wool with JB bore paste did this about 4 times. Took several days but finally could see rifling, bore was still dark but well scrubbed and smooth from JB bore paste. Took her to the range and just before dark took 3 shots at a target I could barely see, ( 75 yards or so) offhand with open sights. Not the military sights I had them replaced with Williams sights. Two shots touched and the third was 1/4 inch away from the other two and the group was dead center....on target.

So clean the thing till your arms wear out , use steel wool on brass brush and polish with JB bore paste...once everything is clean and smooth you just might be surprised.

[Dutchman]

A thread with no pictures is sooooo boring :)

I was at a residential estate auction in rural Indiana about 1999. Among the several firearms was this 1893 Spanish Mauser. It was stored in an unheated garage in very humid and wet northwest Indiana. It was a fresh rebuild judging from the new beech stock. I won the bid at $75. Once I spent some time with it I decided not to go through the arduous task of removing all the rust so I sold it to a friend for the same $75.

The 1893 Mauser was earth shaking in the world of military rifles... any rifles. John Browning had just finished with the 1892 Winchester and was working fervently on a box magazine lever action that would become the 1895 Winchester still 3 years away. These rifles proved themselves by delivering a bad case of whoopass on American soldiers in Cuba circa 1898.

http://images60.fotki.com/v361/photos/4/28344/9895637/photo1-vi.jpg
http://images59.fotki.com/v684/photos/2/28344/981703/s2-vi.jpg
http://images109.fotki.com/v79/photos/2/28344/981703/s3-vi.jpg
http://images30.fotki.com/v464/photos/2/28344/981703/s5-vi.jpg
http://images109.fotki.com/v78/photos/2/28344/981703/s6-vi.jpg
http://images109.fotki.com/v79/photos/2/28344/981703/s7-vi.jpg

[UBER7MM]

I'd find a rubber plug at the hardware store and plug the breach. Then I'd fill with my favorite solvent and let the barrel and set for a couple of days or even a week. You'd be surprised what comes out.

I hope this helps,

[deces]

A thread with no pictures is sooooo boring :)

I was at a residential estate auction in rural Indiana about 1999. Among the several firearms was this 1893 Spanish Mauser. It was stored in an unheated garage in very humid and wet northwest Indiana. It was a fresh rebuild judging from the new beech stock. I won the bid at $75. Once I spent some time with it I decided not to go through the arduous task of removing all the rust so I sold it to a friend for the same $75.

The 1893 Mauser was earth shaking in the world of military rifles... any rifles. John Browning had just finished with the 1892 Winchester and was working fervently on a box magazine lever action that would become the 1895 Winchester still 3 years away. These rifles proved themselves by delivering a bad case of whoopass on American soldiers in Cuba circa 1898.

http://images60.fotki.com/v361/photos/4/28344/9895637/photo1-vi.jpg
http://images59.fotki.com/v684/photos/2/28344/981703/s2-vi.jpg
http://images109.fotki.com/v79/photos/2/28344/981703/s3-vi.jpg
http://images30.fotki.com/v464/photos/2/28344/981703/s5-vi.jpg
http://images109.fotki.com/v78/photos/2/28344/981703/s6-vi.jpg
http://images109.fotki.com/v79/photos/2/28344/981703/s7-vi.jpg

What dose that cleaning rod thread into?

[Dutchman]

What dose that cleaning rod thread into?

Probably another cleaning rod to make them long enough. There was a kit that went with these rifles, as with most Mausers. Those kits have long since disappeared.

Dutch

[jjnpg317]

Still cleaning & getting dirty patchs. I slugged the barrel twice and each one came out smooth! Each slug mic at .273. I can see rifling so I'm confused. Any suggestions?

[Multigunner]

These rifles proved themselves by delivering a bad case of whoopass on American soldiers in Cuba circa 1898.

Correct me if I'm wrong but didn't the U S win that war.
The 7mm Mauser with round nose 174 gr bullet proved to be the least deadly of any rifle in the conflict, not because of accuracy since it was accurate, but because the bullets didn't tumble and made neat wounds that often healed without medical attention.
Theres a book written by a surgeon attached to Cuban Rebels during that war, he made a very detailed study of the wounds inflicted by the 7mm.
My guess is the natural resistance to infection of the hardy rebels made a very big difference compared to British Casualties in South Africa. Of course a scratch could kill you in that pesthole before effective anti-biotics came along.


Found a site on the history of radiography and it states that 95% of U S casualties from the Spanish American War due to bullet wounds survived.
They of course claim this was due to the early X-Ray machines used at the time.

The Spanish had some hard core sharp shooters, and these caused quite a few casualties. Unfortunately they seemed to prefer infiltrating and shooting up the wounded men at field hospitals. One man on a stretcher was hit in the arm only inches from the wound that had put him there to begin with.

Records from the Philipines campaign show the deadliest wounds were from Remington Rolling Block Rifles with B P cartridges. Wounds from the Mauser or Krag FMJ round nose seldom got badly infected but wounds made by the larger caliber rifles with BP cartridges quickly became badly infected.
A substitute for BP used by guerillas was made from Japanese match heads. When tested these proved to be far more powerful than expected, with 8 inches more penetration power than the .30-40 Krag.

The U S did adopt many features of the 1893 Mauser. Swift reloading was its long suit.
The Krag was faster in rapid fire, but only for the first five or six shots.
The double opposed locking lugs of the Mausers ( a feature the Germans swiped from the French), allowed for more powerful and flatter shooting cartridges that the Krag could not digest on a regular basis.

This is pretty cool
http://www.ajronline.org/doi/full/10.2214/ajr.174.5.1741233
Scroll down aways and you'll see an X-Ray of a soldier with a Mauser bullet imbedded n his brain.
he bullet went in over one eye and lodged in brain tissues an inch or so short of the back of the skull. They could not operate yet the soldier made a full recovery and returned to duty. The bullet remained in his brain.

[Janoosh]

Thanks for the article, multigunner. It was most interesting. The Spanish 93 rifle i have has a good bore, no pitting, and prefers a looong boolit for any accuracy.

[deces]

Probably another cleaning rod to make them long enough. There was a kit that went with these rifles, as with most Mausers. Those kits have long since disappeared.

Dutch
I'm not sure about this, but I believe they thread into a muzzle cap to serve as a handle. which ones? I have no idea, I was hoping that you would know.

[azrednek]

I have a 1950's Spanish Mauser in 8MM and had the same problem. Following a suggestion I got some where on the net. I went out and put over a 100 rds through it. Afterward I quickly and easily cleaned up the bore. At the range I used Windex to remove the residue from the corrosive primers. At home using Hoppes #9 and a brush the bore was easily cleaned. Don't know if it will work with yours but it might be worth a try.

[Dutchman]

I'm not sure about this, but I believe they thread into a muzzle cap to serve as a handle. which ones? I have no idea, I was hoping that you would know.

Well, I do have an idea and I told you. Many Mauser cleaning rods screw into another cleaning rod to make them long enough to clean the bore. The German K98k is like that but literally dozens of other Mauser models are designed to do the same thing. This is why many of them have 11" to 12" cleaning rods.

Dutch

[Nickle]

The Americans obviously won it, but it pointed out hte shortcomings of the Krag. Krag rifles would have probably worked out fine in a battle against light cavalry armed with a hodge podge of equipment that was slow to reload. After all, military developments are all about fighting the last war, not the next one.

[Multigunner]

The Krag rifles worked fine. The advantages of the 93 Mauser have been over blown because many U S Troops in Cuba were still armed with Trap Door Springfields with Black Powder cartridges.
Due to terrain there were not that many places where the flatter trajectory of the 7X57 compared to the .30-40 made any difference.
The static defense of hill top earthworks put the range advantage to the defenders, but they still lost.

[Nickle]

In fairness to the OP, we've up and accidentally hijacked this thread into a discussion on Krags.

So, to answer the questions, here's my suggestions:

First, plug and soak the bore.

Second, clean out first with your regular bore cleaner, then try to copper solvent.

Do NOT use copper solvent like Sweets on a bronze (or any other type of copper) bore brush.

Just wet a patch, and run it through the bore. Let it sit a couple of minutes. That's 2 or 3, not 15 or 20. Do NOT let it sit longer than say 5 minutes. It is said to damage your bore if it sits too long. Interaction with air is my guess. I don't try it long, won't recommend it.

If you replace the barrel, I'd go with an aftermarket barrel over a take off. The cost will offset with the gunsmithing, unless you fit the barrel yourself. You should be able to finish the chamber by hand. Now, I use a lathe, but then, I do my own smithing, too.

[azrednek]

The Spaniards did whoop-butt. The numbers vary by where you read the history. Roosevelt charged up San Juan Hill with 15,000 men defended by 750 Spaniards. The US had apx 1500 killed or wounded casualties.

[Multigunner]

A dug in enemy with clear field of fire and height advantage will most often inflict heavy casualties on an attacking force.

Back to this rifles fouling problem.
Cupro Nickel fouling was very difficult to remove, so many old military rifles ended up with layer upon layer of metal fouling.

In test firing to judge the effect of excessive metal fouling on the 1903 Springfield they found that after thick layers of metal fouling were removed the rifle was often less accurate than when fouled and far less accurate than when new. The diameter of the thoroughly cleaned bore was found to have increased.
This could be one reason why some Mauser have over sized bores.

The British used very aggressive cleaning methods to remove metal fouling, including annealed iron wire mesh on the pull through patch.

[azrednek]

In test firing to judge the effect of excessive metal fouling on the 1903 Springfield they found that after thick layers of metal fouling were removed the rifle was often less accurate than when fouled and far less accurate than when new. The diameter of the thoroughly cleaned bore was found to have increased.
This could be one reason why some Mauser have over sized bores.

With my 1950's 8MM Spanish Mauser I didn't see anything significant either better or worse as far as the mediocre shot to shot accuracy. I did how ever feel better having a bore I could clean without a never ending pile of green colored patches.

[Multigunner]

I just remembered I have an old Gun Digest when a full sized reprint of the Mauser catalog for the 1893 Mauser.
I'll dig it up later and see if it has any useful information.
I remember that the last time I looked through that book there were a lot of German words, I don't remember if it also has English translations. Some extremely well done illustrations and ballistic charts that should be of interest.

[1500FPS]

A dug in enemy with clear field of fire and height advantage will most often inflict heavy casualties on an attacking force.

Back to this rifles fouling problem.
Cupro Nickel fouling was very difficult to remove, so many old military rifles ended up with layer upon layer of metal fouling.

In test firing to judge the effect of excessive metal fouling on the 1903 Springfield they found that after thick layers of metal fouling were removed the rifle was often less accurate than when fouled and far less accurate than when new. The diameter of the thoroughly cleaned bore was found to have increased.
This could be one reason why some Mauser have over sized bores.

The British used very aggressive cleaning methods to remove metal fouling, including annealed iron wire mesh on the pull through patch.

Green Beret sniping instructor on gun cleaning. They train with match grade AR 15s.

- Best points:

- a barrel cleaned down to bare metal takes at least 20 rounds, sometimes more, to refill the bore with copper.

- the "clean barrel will typically shoot 1.5 MOA, after being "recoppered", it will shoot 1/2 MOA.

- the only time they remove copper is when starting a fresh training class, so that everyone starts out equally handicapped.

- they clean rifles once/ week to remove powder and carbon fouling ONLY.

- copper is never removed unless accuracy goes to h e double l. He said usually that does not help and it's usually new barrel time. The AR he was shooting had 5000 rounds down the tube, had never been "copper scrubbed out" and was still a 1/2 MOA rifle.

Bottom line: A match quality barrel fed top grade ammo does not need the bore ever cleaned to bare metal. Get out the powder fouling and it will shoot great a long, long time.

If you have a **** barrel, that accumulates chunks of jacket material, give fire lapping a try and/or get a new tube.

As well as using a quality one piece rod and bore guide, he removed the jag before withdrawing the rod. 5 wet patches, 10 dry, 5 more wet, 10 dry, clean the chamber and bolt assembly and back to rock and roll.

No nasty brushes, no abrasives. It appeared he was using Bore Tech C4 carbon remover and I'm guessing they use Bore Tech CU+2 when they want to get down to bare metal.

If you spend the extra money (a lot) to get your barrel Nitrided, life gets even easier and the barrel will probably outlast you.

Navy Seals said the same thing.

[Smokepole50]

I would take it out and shoot it, providing the head space checks out good. Put 20-30 rounds down the pipe and then scrub it good with JB bore paste. You don't need to remove all the cupro-nickle fouling and you probably never will unless you do the reverse plating bore cleaning trick that will most likely reveal a pitted bore under all the metal fouling.

[JIMinPHX]

When cleaning old neglected war horses for the first time, I sometimes resort to the battery, metal rod & ammonia trick. It does about a month's worth of metal cleaning in a few hours. Outers used to sell a kit. I think it was called Foul Out II or something like that. It was based on the same principle.

You can also get new replacement barrels for small ring Mausers at very reasonable prices. I mounted a 7mm A&B barrel from Midway on a Spanish Mauser several years ago & had fantastic results. That barrel came semi-finished for less than the cost of many barrel blanks. All I had to do was screw it on, mount sights & finish ream the chamber to correct headspace.

[mroliver77]

Back to the thread drift. A Krag with a modern(pointy) 150-170gr bullet is pretty respectable. If they only knew!

I have shot animals with military ball ammo pointy and blunt. At closer ranges where bullet speed is 2400+ all bullets left nasty wounds. Some flat based pulled innards out the exit hole behind them. I am always amazed when I see it stated that they poke pencil holes in tissue.

Anybody have resources to studies or personal experience with this?

Oh and on topic. Kroil really does seem to soak under fouling and HELP lift it. When I have stubborn milsurps I soak with solvent and scrub. Them some kroil or eds red to get at powder and whatever fouling. I will shoot them too if they are not completely fouled. Soak in E.R. or kroil while in safe. They eventually come clean.
I had a Legion turn in 17 Enfield that barrel looked like a sewer pipe. Some cleaning showed promise but not much. After a few cleaning, shooting, soaking sessions it looked new. Barrel is immaculate! I am not anal about a bit of fouling.
J

[Multigunner]

Back to the thread drift. A Krag with a modern(pointy) 150-170gr bullet is pretty respectable. If they only knew!



DWM tried to improve the 7X57 with a 154 gr spire point bullet at 2900+FPS.
Unfortunately many older 1893-95 Mausers came unhinged after a few too many rounds.
I've read of the small ring mauser failures in an article on the Gran Chaco war. They didn't identify the cartridge used but that DWM cartridge was suspect for use in older rifles from the beginning. Degraded propellent from jungle climes probably pushed pressure beyond safe limits.

PS

Anybody have resources to studies or personal experience with this?

I'll see if I can find you a few links to studies by military surgeons.

Range is a factor, at extreme close range a bullet would still have some yaw. If large bones were struck the wound could be devastating.

In Cuba a number of rebels took through and through wounds and suffered no lasting harm though they got no medical attention to speak of.

[Ken77539]

I got this weapon the other day and it was painted black. I'm getting the paint off with stripper, and the metal does have some pits on it under the paint but not enough to keep it from being shot. I've been trying to clean the inside of the barrel for five days but never run out of copper fouling with this barrel. Is this common ? Can I get a take off barrel (Ruger, Remington, ETC ) and replace it , or just keep on using Hoppe's copper cleaner ?
Thanks

Sweets 7.62. I've had a little Marlin 336 in 30-30 for about 30 years now. Only thing ever down the barrel were the 150 and 170gr. Remington Core-Loks followed by a good scrubbing after each use with #9 Hoppe's. Went after it with the Sweets one afternoon just for grins and it was like I had never cleaned the barrel before! Sold me. I keep a bottle of Sweets on the bench all the time now.

[GOPHER SLAYER]

I had a neat little 1893 Mauser in 7x57. I didn't like the cock on closing but it didn't have that hidious thumb cutout that is found on later Mausers. One way to quickly idenify a '93 is to look at the front of the bolt. If the bottom of the bolt is flat it is a '93. I don't think Teddy charged up San Juan hill or anyone else for that matter. Teddy led a charge up another hill whose name I have forgotten. The calvary horses Teddy's men were supposed to ride didn't make it out of Florida for lack of room on available ships. Getting back to the question of the thread, that is the bore of the rifle. I have spent many hours scrubbing the bores of old military rifles. The latest, a 1902 Remington rolling block that was used in the Mexican revolution. All my scrubbing never seemed to help.

[Multigunner]

I had a few UMC 7X57 with cupronickel jacket round nose bullets.
I figure these were the cartridge intended for the Remington 1902 Rolling Block.

An article on rifles used by the Royal Navy in WW1 mentioned buying up 7mm single shot Remington rifles, these had to be the Rolling Block.
Some of these rifles had action failures, which was put down to "a defect in the breech".
I figure they had used an ELEY manufactured 7mm cartridge that was simply too hot for the Rolling Blocks.

If not for so many of the early 7mm rifles remaining in service around the world at the turn of the century upgrading the performance of the 7X57 would have been no problem. The hottest 7mm loads were more powerful than the WW1 era .30-06 ball, with a more efficient bullet due to smaller diameter for the same weight. Unfortunately these were only safe for use in 98 type actions and in MGs.

PS
If you find a 93 or 95 with a lot of set back its more than likely it has digested a few too many of those extra hot loads, or the homegrown Boer cartridges which were the cause of a number of action blow outs.

[Larry Gibson]

I'm sure many of you know my penchant for measuring the psi (Oehler M43) of milsurp ammunition. I have pressure measured a few different 7x57 milsurp cartridges also. Multigunner is very correct about the 154 gr milsurp stuff being quite "hot". Some PS50 ran 62,900 psi(M43) and some PS51 ran 64,500 psi(M43). Those both had 39 gr of the typical Nobel square cut flake powder under the 154 gr FMJBTs. Velocity was 2516 and 2543 out of the 22' test barrel.

A while back I found about 150 DWM 1916s with 172 gr FMJRNs. They had 36 gr of an extruded powder in the Berdan primed case. I pulled the bullets and the powder was good so I replaced the bullets in 20 to test and also loaded the same into WW cases with WLR primers which I test fired 1st. I got 5 out of the 20 original rounds to fire, the rest had dud primers. The psi and velocities were consistent with the powder/bullet loaded into the WW cases. The psi was 54,500 psi(M43) and the velocity was 2295 out of the 22" test barrel.

Venezuelan Cavim 84 with 45 gr extruded powder under a 139 gr FMJBT ran 45,700 psi for 2590 fps.

For reference Winchester 175 factory runs 49,900 psi(M43) at 2376 fps. Remington 175 factory runs 47,900 psi(M43) at 2225 fps. Hornady Light Magnum factory 139 BTSPs ran 44,200 psi(M43) at 2624 fps.

My own preferred hunting load is with the 175 gr RN over 49 gr H4831. It runs 2400 fps out of my 22" barreled M95 with 51,800 psi(M43) and consistent 1.25 moa or better accuracy. Working on and improved load with the RCBS 28-168-FN (old Loverin style) and hoping to maintain hunting accuracy at 2000 fps.

Larry Gibson

[1500FPS]

That doesn't surprise me one bit. More and more people in the gun world are finding out that the old CUP readings are much higher then they imagined them to be. I would have liked a velocity/pressure reading on that military ammo when it was fresh. I have to wonder how much, if any, it changed over the decades.

[JIMinPHX]

Thank you for the pressure info Larry. It was an eye opener for me.

[jjnpg317]

Clean up of barrel is showing improvement but slow . My eyes are not going to let me use miltary rear sight.
Can anyone suggest a make & model receiver sight to place on 1983 Spainish Mauser ? Would I need to replace front sight also ? Thanks

[blixen]

I've had experience with 3 spanish 7x57 mausers. One is very nicely sporterized carbine-beautifully reblued--for a youth. It's my wife's joy. It shoots very well.
The second was original long rifle with most of the wood long gone and a filthy bore. I cleaned it every way possible, including electrolysis. Couldn't get it to group. Sold it to a guy who wanted the action.
Third was a short rifle. I cleaned the heck out of it but it sprayed lead worse than the rifle.
I would love a 93 7x57 rifle with a good bore. Fortunately, I have a nice Swede and a good shooting Argie to keep my hunger at bay.

[jjnpg317]

I read everything everyone wrote & kept cleaning. After leaving Kroil & Hoppe's 9 in barrel for a week , I pulled the plug out and barrel still looked bad inside after a cleaning. I read where someone mentioned the barrel bores on these rifles was big so I ordered .287 boolits from Montana. When they got here , I attempted to loaded 25.5 grains IMR4895 under them but boolits kept sticking in the seating die. Ended up having to wipe boolits with a rag, take seating stem out, and oiling neck area in die. The reason for this is because the boolits can be seated way out!!!
Went to range today and shot at 25 yards. I can't see sights or target very well (old eyes) but give it my best. When I finish, guy shooting next to me says "Nice cluster". I walk down and look. It is a nice cluster. When I get back to bench, guy ask if he could shoot it. He then starts shooting at skeet on a bank 125 yards away and hits them. This gun is going to cost me a lot of money for everything I want to buy for it now.

[bob208]

well if the barrel is junk. that action makes a good rebarrel to .35remington.that makes a good cast lead shooter.

the rough riders went up kettle hill. then supported the black troops under pershing.it was really sanjuan heights which was a groop of hills. who also had krags. most of the others were national guard troops armed with trapdoors.

[leadman]

For old cruddy bores I use the purple soaps available from auto parts stores and Walmart, etc. Purple Power is $12.00 for 2 1/2 gallons from Walmart, just bought it today. Super Clean is another brand.
Use it like bore cleaner or plug the barrel and let it set for 15 or 20 minutes. I also put some soap in a coffee can and pump the patch up and down the bore with the muzzle in the can. This will remove an amazing amount of crud. You will have to finish with regular bore cleaner then oil the bore.
I second the Midway barrel for a replacement, but I do not recommend the 7.62X39 barrel and feed kit from Numrich.

[roberto mervicini]

Clean up of barrel is showing improvement but slow . My eyes are not going to let me use miltary rear sight.
Can anyone suggest a make & model receiver sight to place on 1983 Spainish Mauser ? Would I need to replace front sight also ? Thanks

I replaced with Redfield peep and plug the opening on the wood of the upper hand rest, since some one ad already removed the original rear sight on mine.

78619

[UBER7MM]

I.....Went to range today and shot at 25 yards. I can't see sights or target very well (old eyes) but give it my best. When I finish, guy shooting next to me says "Nice cluster". I walk down and look. It is a nice cluster. When I get back to bench, guy ask if he could shoot it. He then starts shooting at skeet on a bank 125 yards away and hits them. This gun is going to cost me a lot of money for everything I want to buy for it now.

A peep site is a vast improvement over the original military rear site. That means drilling and tapping the receiver as well as the expense of the peep. A scope addition means drilling and tapping as well as bolt and safety modifications. Lots of money. If you can do the labor yourself, not as much money.

Before launching into that project, go down to the local Walmart and weigh the expense against the price of a new "tupperware" bolt rifle in the rack. I once put twice the price of a low end scoped Rem Mod 7 into a 1916.

I hope this helps,

[bstarling]

I have an old spanish 93 Oviedo that was cut down. It still had the original sights. The rear sight was taken off base sleeve and all. The sight sleeve was replaced with a piece of pipe bored to the barrel size and turned to fit a Thompson Center Weaver scope base. The pipe sleeve was drilled and tapped to fit the mount and a handgun scope mounted. The old gal actually does shoot right well now that I can see the target with the scope. All in all cost was $10 for the base, $35 for the scope, ten cents worth of solder for the sleeve and a pipe nipple for the junk box. I'm not exactly a spring chicken so the scope help a lot. It has held 1.5" groups at 100 yards with this set up. No so shabby for an old $20 rifle.

Bill

[jjnpg317]

This gun shoots cast so well I decided to scope it. Redfield was contacted and replied their mount #47157 would work. The question I need answered now is do I ground the clip guide off the rear of receiver or leave it on & use shims ?

[HABCAN]

Redfield/Leupold #51263 2 pc. bases.........no need to alter the action to mount bases.

[UBER7MM]

The one piece Leupold that looks the same as the Redfield 47157 need shimming on the 98 action, but does accommodate the Stripper clip boss.

Not really apples to apples, but I hope that points you in the right direction.

[jjnpg317]

The following things have been done to the rifle ; shortened the barrel to 22" ( prior owner cut it to 25"), install Redfield Base 47157 ( did not have to grind anything down/fit perfect over clip guide), installed a Bolt trigger, bolt handle turned down for scope clearance , and shortened stock. Went to the range with Montana boolits (160 grain sized .287 ) and 25.5 grains of Imr4895 and filler. At 100 yards, this rifle shoots better than any rifle I have ever owned!! It shoots small groups in spite of a nasty bore and being ugly. I like it and it is a keeper!!

[UBER7MM]

Jinpg317,

Photos? Please share.

[azrednek]

jinpg317,

photos? Please share.

ditto

[jjnpg317]

I don't know how to send pictures on the computer. I can make some and send through mail to someone to post if they would. It's not a beauty by any standard but it shoots great and doesn't kick the h**l out of me with boolits. I don't hunt anything anymore but do like shooting, so it's good for me.

[tdoor4570]

Clean up of barrel is showing improvement but slow . My eyes are not going to let me use miltary rear sight.
Can anyone suggest a make & model receiver sight to place on 1983 Spainish Mauser ? Would I need to replace front sight also ? Thanks
I have a way to mount a long eye relief handgun scope and not damage the rifle at all. the inst is to long to type out, PM me and we will talk if I can help

[jjnpg317]

On the recent GB (NOE 288407) , I cast a few and sized them .287 in a Lyman sizing die that was opened up from .285. Went to the range and at 25 yards with scope , five shots in the target center red dot. Skipped fifty yards and went to a hundred yards distance. Five shots within two inches of each other and no keyholes. The barrel is still nasty and dark , but it shoots the two cast boolits I've used almost to the same place. Is this normal ?

[Ironsight]

Just bought one. Nicely re-done; looks like a museum piece.
Considering it probably had not had an appropriate cleaning since birth I ran industrial amounts of Hoppe's #9 thru it until clear. Whew! Then Sweet's 7.62 Solvent for the prescribed 15 minutes and the patch came out dark blue. Few more patches alternating Sweet's-soaked /clean patches and the barrel became clean as it was before first firing in 1927. Took it up the hill to gun range and it was quite precise and accurate. It is now my new deer rifle.
Anyone know where I can get my hands on the cleaning rod that goes with it?

Sweet's 7.72 Solvent. Good stuff for getting the copper outa the barrel. Get some, you will be pleasantly pleased.

IronSight