Lee Mold Sprue Plate Lubrication Question

[Foto Joe]

The Brown Truck finally arrived with my molds yesterday so this weekend should be highly educational. In reading through the paperwork for the molds it stresses that the sprue plates HAVE to be lubricated. I realize that a lot of you guys use special products for this purpose but keep in mind that I'm kinda out in the boonies and getting specific products for casting is like pulling teeth from a rabid cat. Lee suggests a never seize compound or beeswax. I can get my hands on either by this weekend but wouldn't beeswax just burn off?

[Curlymaple42]

Don't use beeswax

[Foto Joe]

Okay, why not?

[Dusty Bannister]

To each their own. I use the Beeswax formed into a crayon shape with a fine point. I heat the mold and just melt off the tip placed where the lube needs to be. A little bit, applied more often rather than a gob all at one time. Yes, it burns off, but it also gives you a chance to look at the mold and be sure everything is still working properly. As always avoid getting wax in the cavity, but a touch on the hinge screw is nice and keeps lead from sticking. I also use a light smear of synthetic 2-stroke oil on the outside surfaces for the same reason.

I suppose if you wanted to keep it pretty, you should not even use it. Dusty

[Smoke4320]

a small drop of synthetic 2-stroke oil on the sprue plate screw and lightly on the plate bottom and you are good to go ..

[Trey45]

Yup, synthetic 2 stroke oil. I use Amsoil Saber Professional.

[aap2]

Foto: you might want to check the bottom outside perimeter of the sprue plate for roughness before using the mold; some of the new ones that I have seen needed dressing with a fine file or stone to prevent the plate from damaging the tops of the aluminum blocks. What smoke4320 said about lube is spot-on...use a very light film of oil. have fun..

[RoyEllis]

Just my experience, but I NEVER use a Lee mold without pulling the sprue plate off and dressing it flat & smooth with 400 grit wet or dry sandpaper. I use a thick pc of glass table top to back up the paper & ensure the sprue plate comes out flat and slick on the bottom. Then I use a fine stone to break the edge around the perimeter, keeps the plate from digging into the mold top. Look in the sticky's under "Leementing your mold" for some great info on fixing Lee molds to run like a top.

[w0fms]

I use synthetic 2-cycle oil initially, and then a mix of beeswax and synthetic 2-cycle oil as I am using the mold (the oil is dyed blue and it makes a nice light green-- about 60% wax 40% 2-cycle). Works fine for me.

[DeanWinchester]

Plus one for tearing it down and smoothing out first. I use a stone we used to use in machine shop to stone ground edges and precision surfaces. Top of the mo,d and the bottom of the spru plate. Use a Qtip and some two stroke oil. I have been known to use a crayon when the mold gets hot. Just touch the edge to the corner and it'll seep into the hinge area. Too much and it'll creep into a cavity and you do NOT want that.

[wallenba]

Keep your wits about you when lubing that sprue plate. Always tip it so that the lubricant cannot flow towards and into the cavity. Don't ask me how I know this.

[462]

Things to do whenever one gets their first Lee mould:
1. Throw the directions in the trash. If you read the instructions before throwing them in the trash, disremember everything you read.
2. Lee-ment the mould (the process is in the stickies).
3. Lube with Bullplate (available from forum member Bullshop) or synthetic 2-cycle engine oil.

[theperfessor]

^^what he said^^

[jmort]

"Yup, synthetic 2 stroke oil. I use Amsoil Saber Professional."

Yes that or the synthetic Sthil 2 stroke

[Foto Joe]

Synthetic 2-Stroke oil, who would have thunk it. I may have to quit bashing synthetic oils huh?

[MtGun44]

+1 on 462.

Bill

[DukeInFlorida]

The melting point, smoking point, and burning point of beeswax is much too low to be effective by itself as a lube for the sprue plate.

I use Bullplate, or at least a good quality synthetic two cycle motor oil (I use Klotz brand) as the lube for the sprue plate.
To apply lube to the sprue plate, I pour all cavities, allow it to solidify, and then cut the sprue, WHILE LEAVING THE CASTINGS IN THE CAVITIES.
With the castings still in the cavities, there's less chance of getting lube accidentally in the cavities.
I apply the lube to a cotton swab (Q Tip or other brand), and use that to apply the lube in the appropriate places on the sprue plate and top of the mold.

[fcvan]

I have been using wooden disposable chopsticks to apply 2-stroke oil as mold/sprueplate lube. The 2-stroke oil soaks into the wood so after dipping the stick in the oil and lubing the pins and mating grooves there is usually enough oil to apply a very light and thin coating to the sprueplate. the fat end of the chopstick is kept dry for scraping/cleaning surfaces if needed, and the thinner end for application. This has worked very well for me.

['74 sharps]

I use Permatex Anti Seize from the car parts store. The 1oz tube goes a long way for a few dollars.

[RobS]

If you are going to go the synthetic oil route and Bull Plate sprue lube or similar route use very little and on a Q-tip works well. A very little is all that is needed.

[Foto Joe]

I actually came up with the Q-tip idea all on my own, sometimes my brain actually hits double digit IQ but thanks for the recommendations all the same. I picked up some store brand ACE synthetic oil and it appears to work just fine.