Homemade Lube

[lead_her_fly]

Ok, I made several batches that didn't work so well. Now I am using a homebrew that was suggested to me by an expert. I have a H&G 209BB 4 gang mold that cranks out boolits like crazy and man are they accurate! With the homemade lube I have no leading at all, period. What I do have is excess lube on the target, even out to 20 yards! At 21 ft it is pretty impressive. There is a build up on the outside of the muzzle too. I don't care about the dirt, I shoot lead and clean my guns. I did do one thing to the barrel though that I think helped the bore a bunch. I am a former Marine. I have some Brasso. I used it on a clean gun and clean patch. I only used it once but man is that bore shiny! Anyway, I was wondering if these symptoms are normal. The excessive lube on the target and end of the muzzle. I am shooting these out of a newer 686 S&W with a 6" barrel. From a rest I could shoot one hole at 60' which is all the longer the inside range is!

I can tell you what though, this is fun!

:mrgreen:

[mtgrs737]

Fly,

What kind of homemade lube are you using? I have been thinking about trying to make some myself.

[lead_her_fly]

Fly,

What kind of homemade lube are you using? I have been thinking about trying to make some myself.

It isn't that I don't want to say but I am waiting for a release from the professional that gave me the recipe. If he says it is ok then so I will post it. Like I said he makes his living on selling lube and I want to make sure he is ok with letting this out!

[1hole]

While your lube is obviously doing a good job you are over doing it. If you are using a lubrasizer adjust your ram so it doesn't lube the top groove. If it still leaves goo on your muzzle, reduce the lube another groove. Eventually you should have little excess at the muzzle but still have little or no leading.

[lead_her_fly]

While your lube is obviously doing a good job you are over doing it. If you are using a lubrasizer adjust your ram so it doesn't lube the top groove. If it still leaves goo on your muzzle, reduce the lube another groove. Eventually you should have little excess at the muzzle but still have little or no leading.

This boolit is a one square lube groove boolit. Like a Keith!

[454PB]

Your results sound great. Yes, I find boolit lube on my muzzle and on the front of my chronograph. I never shoot less than 25 yards, and haven't seen any signs of lube on a target. If the load shoots well, the last thing I worry about is excess lube on a target.

[lead_her_fly]

454,
I'm not too worried about it because of the great results but I thought someone would tell me to add ........ to my lube to get it down a bit.

I can't wait to get one of the Keith type bullets for both 44 and 45. I am going to load the 45 in 45ACP cases for my 625JM. That should make quite a shooter!

[44man]

I would not worry at all about too much lube in a revolver. I was getting leading and poor accuracy with sized boolits. I found the sides of the boolit were dry. I added a skin of lube to the boolits with my fingers and they came right in. My most accurate loads have had wet lube on the muzzle and all over the gun. If all of the lube spins off the boolit when it leaves the muzzle, all the better. I don't want chunks of hard lube stuck here and there around the boolit to throw it off balance.

[gray wolf]

when you say add to your lube to get it down a bit----- What do you mean??
add to make it harder? softer? more fluid?
please explain I am a make at home lube nut.

I wouldn't worry about the lube on your target or at the end of the barrel.
The problem I have is that my lube makes a gummy mess in the action of my 45 acp.
after 100 rounds I can feel the slide slowing down and I see gonked up lube on the breach face.

I just got some micro-crystalline wax and some carnuba (spelled wrong) flakes.
I added 4 table spoons of the Carnuba flakes to a 4x3x1 inch block of the micro wax.
and 1 table spoon of oil made from seeds. I will try this soon.
This is not a hard mix it is rather soft as the micro wax was soft.
I never used micro crystalline wax before nore the carnuba flakes.
I am sorry to walk in on your thread but perhaps we all can share.

Hey!! anybody know about crystalline waxes??

[felix]

Most micro waxes have too high of a melting temp for your acp. Use plain ol' macro wax from grocery store. ... felix

[jcwit]

Ive been using a home made lube for a couple of yrs. now. My own recipe--equal parts bees wax & paraffin wax then adding paste car wax (I use Turtle wax) to soften it some. Melt it all together, I had to experment with the car wax to get the hardness or softness I wanted, but once a person gets it its simple the next time. I use this on all my pistol loads & M-1 Carbine, the carbine is pushing 2000 fps. No leading at all, works good for me.

[buck1]

You have a classic overlube condition. Think of it as your lube is too good. But if your happy with the results theres a side bennifit there. You will notice a light film on the gun after shooting. That film even when wiped off with a clean cloth will protect the whole gun from rust and such. I do this with my revolvers on purpose. ...Buck

[mtgrs737]

I don't know if it is enough to hurt anything but most car waxes have a polishing abrasive in them to cut through the oxidized layer of paint. If it self-cleaning I wouldn't use it.

[lead_her_fly]

when you say add to your lube to get it down a bit----- What do you mean??
add to make it harder? softer? more fluid?
please explain I am a make at home lube nut.

The amount of lube that comes off of the bullet in the barrel. Like adding some parafin or carnuba or grease or ..... That is the part I am relying on the more experience folks out there to tell me. If my lube is too "luby" what do I do to make it less "luby". I wish I could get this question out so everyone will understand, I'll keep trying!

I am satisfied with the results. And I am really satisfied with the cleanup of the revolver. I use a brass jag, wet patches and a brush for the first go rounds then dry patches then the oil. In 5 minutes I had the complete revolver clean. I was using HP-38, which I was quite pleased with. The residue was gummy and came off very easily.

I am thinking of adding a little parafin to my mix to make it a little harder. It will be a while as I have 5 sticks of lube left from the last batch I made!

[jcwit]

You're right about the polishing agent, however I belive it's finer than J-B cleaning compound. If nothing else it polishes the bore, IMHO the steel bore is so much harder than the polishing agent it couldn't pose a proplem. Have you ever tried to hone a bore out with fine valve grinding comp, not real easy, however it can be done. If a person was still concerned I would use wax without polishing comp., or paste floor wax

[lead_her_fly]

NRA LIFER .. "THE CAST BULLET HANDLOADER IS THE ONLY ONE THAT REALLY MAKES ANY OF HIS AMMUNITION. OTHERS MEARLY ASSEMBLE IT". -E.H. HARRISON

Buck,
I like your byline by the way! Making ammo is a big part of the shooting sports fun stuff, IMHO.

[jcwit]

say lead her fly got a question? How do you make your lube sticks with a hole in them to use with a std. luber? I've been melting my lube and pouring it into the luber, sorta messy. Any help appreciated.

[OLPDon]

Jcwit:
Thought I would add my 2 cents worth. With homemade Lube at least for me I find reheating lube and then adding to lube sizer when needed, seems to help the lube itself (FWFL). Perhaps it helps the polimerzation don't know but I too thought about lube sticks, if I want a more sticky lube making the stick form is somwhat of a pain. I just make small blocks of lube from thoses through away plastic containers (use as a mold) found in food stores.
Works for me.
Don

[44man]

I just take my lube and peel and roll strips to stuff in the sizer with a stick. Too much trouble making sticks with holes. By the time any is melted to pour in, I have it full.

[lead_her_fly]

All of the parts I used in my mold are found at a hardware store. 1" pvc pipe, 2 - 1" to 1 1/4" rubber stoppers (like corks only rubber), 5/16" dowel rod. I drilled the bottom stopper exactly 5/16" and the top one slightly larger so it could slip on easily. I cut the pvc to 12". I have a one pound coffee can (plastic type) that has a hole in the lid to recieve the pvc pipe. I put the bottom stopper in that has the dowel rod in it. Pour in the lube and put the top stopper, with the oversized hole in it, on it to keep the rod centered in the pvc. When the lube is hard enough to not run out the end I through the pipe in the freezer for 10 minutes or so to make sure the whole stick is hard. Trying to get partially hardened lube out of the mold is a pain. Then I run the pvc under as hot of water that I can stand to have my hands in for 15 to 30 seconds and push it out. I have one more stopper I forgot to mention above. It is 1" in diameter at it's biggest point. It also has a hole in it that is oversized. I remove the top stopper, replace with the smaller stopper and get the cutoff broom and push it out. Then I have a knive and cut it to length. One 12 piece makes about 3 sticks of lube. It isn't for the faint of heart though, getting it out of the mold that is. It can be a royal pain if you don't wait long enough. I'll try to get pictures to go along with the explaination. That will help.

[Lloyd Smale]

I allways melt it in it keeps air out of the star and that can be a real pain in the but.