S&W cylinder release not quite releasing

[Airman Basic]

Have a model 19 that won't quite release the cylinder when opening. The crane is not loose, screwed in tight, and if I pull back on the cylinder when pressing the release, it comes out. Any clues as to a fix?

[Airman Basic]

As I said the crane rod is tight, so that's not the problem, I don't think. Thanks, anyway.

[KCSO]

Check to see if the rod is straight and check for burrs on the front of the rod.

[Cactus Farmer]

The AF used to carry Combat Masterpieces. I was a 75350 Marksmanship instructor and worked on S&W's a lot. I'm 20 miles south of I20 myself and if you need any help with your issue,PM me and we will swap #s.

[Larry Gibson]

If it used to open ok I would take the side plate off and clean it; possibly has debri inside not allowing the thumb latch to push all the way out.

Larry Gibson

[44man]

Pulling back on the cylinder tells me the cylinder front bushing must be worn.
It is not a crane rod, it is the extractor rod that might have unscrewed. There is a center pin in it that pushes the locking bolt in the barrel lug to unlock the front. Check the pin for a burr. Make sure the locking bolt and spring is clean and lubed, it might be stuck.

[Dan Cash]

One other thing to check is crud under the ejector star. It does not take much to prevent the cylinder from unlocking.

[44man]

One other thing to check is crud under the ejector star. It does not take much to prevent the cylinder from unlocking.
Good call, a few gr of powder will do it.

[Artful]

All good calls - I used a S&W 29 for Sillywett competition and had that problem
- the "Bolt", part that pushes forward on the "Center Pin" which frees the cylinder to swing out had actually stretched under use and had to be replaced.

[44man]

I seen the center pins get peened from heavy recoil so the thumb piece could not be pushed and had to be tapped with a dowel rod and little hammer. I removed the peening and they worked fine. The pin is pretty soft.
That should not be a problem with a .357 though.
The easiest way to remove the extractor rod is to use an old drill chuck on it, turn by hand--left hand thread. Don't use pliers.

[palmettosunshine]

Airman, had a similar problem with a model 65 that drove me nuts until I found a thread on the high road. Not sure if I can post a link here so I'll copy and paste the solution here.

"It was with that little piece under the barrel that is directly in front of the ejector rod when the cylinder is closed. It has a little rod in it that springs in and out when the cylinder latch is pressed and the cylinder is closed. I don't know what purpose it serves and didn't even see that little rod before! Didn't even know it was there! I wiped it off with a tissue and a little dirt came off of it. Now the cylinder latch isn't sticky anymore."

"That pin is the front latch, and works off the cylinder release . The small diameter pin that goes through the ejector rod is the mechanism that activates it, and it provides a little lockup at the tront of the ejector rod."

I hope this helps.

[km101]

I seen the center pins get peened from heavy recoil so the thumb piece could not be pushed and had to be tapped with a dowel rod and little hammer. I removed the peening and they worked fine. The pin is pretty soft.

I have seen this several times on Smith .38 & .357 revolvers. It does not take much peening to make the cylinder difficult to open. You normally cant even see it. A light stoning around the end of the pin will normally take care of it. Or you can remove the pin, chuck it in a drill and spin it while holding some fine sandpaper around the end of the pin. The pin is fairly soft, so don't do more than polish it. Don't try to remove metal. This will normally cure any opening problems.

[pipehand]

I shot my 45Long Colt 625 Mountain gun enough that it had to go back to S&W for the same problem. They fixed it no charge.

[44man]

I wish they made the pins harder. I replaced a few with piano wire from the model shop, spring steel. Guys harden the end but be careful, the rod can break at the end of the hardening. Best to harden and temper the whole rod.
It is really an easy fix. I never had the new ones but seen the X frame unlock cylinders, just a spring. The guns are great, just tiny problems.