Cleaning Steel Mold Before Casting

[neilin]

Hey, I used to clean the paraffin off my stored steel bullet molds with (spray can) electrical contact cleaner, before casting bullets. The cost of the electrical contact cleaner has gotten prohibitive. I tried using Hoppe's #9 the last time I cast, but it leaves a residue that takes a very long time to cook off. Can you suggest something economical I could clean the paraffin off my steel molds before casting, that will not leave a residue?

[Changeling]

I don't really cast bullets because of some problems, but I've seen a a HELL of a lot of them cast from people I know. Most of them use the cast iron molds.

They invariably take there new molds and a "hard" tooth brush and scrub the heck out of it with "HOT" water and dish detergent (Like you use to wash dishes, liquid). Some of them even repeat the process a couple times.
Then they just heat the mold on top of a "hotplate" and in the molten alloy they are casting with till the mold comes up to temperature and burns off any residue that might be left. It usually doesn't take long before they are dropping awesome bullets. However rarely are the first few dropings what they consider quality bullets.

I hope this helps you.

[MT Chambers]

Brake cleaner and a toothbush, then hot water, soap and a toothbrush.....why are you getting parrafin on your molds??

[neilin]

I cover the mold with parrafin while it is hot (after casting) as a rust preventer for several months of storage.

[LynC2]

I store mine with VAPOR PHASE INHIBITOR paper or crystals in an ammo can and haven't had a bit of rust in well over 30 years. It doesn't require any removal either from my experience.

[neilin]

Where would I buy the paper and crystals?

[Smoke4320]

all those little packets of silicon pellets in things you buy...that says do not eat .. save them for these purposes

[captaint]

Very hot water and dish soap. Toothbrush. Clean twice and dry immediately. Again, the mold should be quite warm from the very hot water, so they dry up nicely. If that doesn't get gone the paraffin, try paint thinner or similar. Avoid any kind of oil product. No oily stuff. Ever on a boolit mold - unless you know you're looking at long term storage. Love steel molds. Mike

[Dan Cash]

Soak the mould in paint thinner, blow dry with high pressure air. Oil takes just a few minutes to remove this way; parifin will take a bit longer to melt off.

[mold maker]

Midway sells the VPI paper in stamp sized squares.

[LynC2]

Where would I buy the paper and crystals?

I bought the VPI crystals from Brownells years ago but I don't see it listed any longer. The VPI paper was NOX rust vapor wrapper and I don't recall where I got it, but it is still made. A product that is readily available is the Flambeau Zerust in various forms from places like Cabelas and other sporting goods outlets.

[EMC45]

I use a Marsh ink brush to oil my steel molds. I then either do a quick swab of the cavities with a QTip soaked in acetone or just cast a few to burn the oil off.

[MattOrgan]

I use brake cleaner to clean my molds. I just step outside and hose them down. Then to the hot plate while the pot melts. I've never encountered any lubricant, cutting fluid, or anything else in a mold that brake cleaner does not remove immediately and completely. No need to use a tooth brush or anything else. Generally my first cast produces good bullets. After finishing, while the molds are still warm I use a Qtip to lubricate the mold using Ed's Red for storage. Prior to discovering Ed's Red I used any light oil. When ready to cast I repeat the process. Switched to Ed's read (always including the lanolin) because it prevents rust for years and is useful for so many things.

[No_1]

Caution should be the word when using some if not all brake cleaners on your molds. If the molds are heated before the brake cleaner has evaporated or if the cleaner is applied while the molds are hot enough to vaporize the brake cleaner then you may suffer serious repiratory effects or even death from the fumes produced.

For cleaning molds I use cheap carb cleaner on mine. Any brand will do but I especially like those that are advertised with "33% more" for the same price. These are ment to be burned up and therefore may be less likely to cause a health hazard.

YMMV

R.

[Ed_Shot]

What MattOrgan said except I coat my Lyman molds with Mr. Wrench penetrating oil in between usage. I take my molds completely apart to clean with W-Mart non-cloroinated break cleaner (outdoors) before use and by the time it's reassembled and mounted to handles it's dry as a bone. I use a hot plate and usually get good boolits on the first cast also.

[John Boy]

I cover the mold with parrafin while it is hot (after casting) as a rust preventer for several months of storage. This is a 1st I've ever heard of such. Recommendation? Eezox
http://www.warrencustomoutdoor.com/eezox-gc.html
or just wipe the mold with mineral oil

[mroliver77]

Would you perhaps be from UK? We call wax paraffin our UK brothers call kerosene paraffin. I use kroil and just burn iy out on my preheat. Works very well. I give mold a dry brushing after burnout and go to casting.
J

[neilin]

John Boy, The paraffin is easy to apply and works great for long term storage. Just something I tried. There are some good suggestions coming in here. I will check the prices on the cleaner suggestions, and may also start using one of the other rust preventers.

[neilin]

Would you perhaps be from UK? We call wax paraffin our UK brothers call kerosene paraffin. I use kroil and just burn iy out on my preheat. Works very well. I give mold a dry brushing after burnout and go to casting.
J
Naw. I'm from Missouri. I, also, call it wax paraffin. What is kroil and where would I find it?

[mroliver77]

Very good stuff! Do a search on Cast Boolits for kroil threads.
here is where it is made. I buy directly from them. They send out good offers too!
J
http://www.kanolabs.com/

[mroliver77]

So you do treat your molds with wax?
J

[Land Owner]

Avoid any kind of oil product. No oily stuff. Ever on a boolit mold - unless you know you're looking at long term storage.

I musta missed that in reading the plethora of Stickies, Books, recommendations and I would like to know ==> WHY NO OIL?

If oil is bad, then I want to stop that practice now.

Please advise...

[beppe]

hello to all! I farevinproiettili when I finished, I leave to cool the mold, then the next day, the spray BENELLI OIL ARM. dimusarlo and then before him, I clean with thinner.

:guntootsmiley::lovebooli

ciao a tutti !! io quando ho finito di farevinproiettili , lascio raffreddare lo stampo , poi il giorno , gli spruzzo BENELLI OIL ARM .e poi prima dimusarlo lo,pulisco con diluente .

[beppe]

I when I finished making the bullets .....


io quando ho finito di fare i proiettili .....

[gunoil]

What changling said

[dromia]

Never oil the mould unless it is for long term storage, then I use Rangoon oil. To clean the mould I boil the sh!t out of it and finish of with cotton buds and acetone. Boiling can discolour aluminium moulds so beware if this bothers you.

[Land Owner]

Never oil the mould unless it is for long term storage...
There it is again. Why not use oil on a steel mould between casting sessions? Is there something wrong about oil on steel of which I don't know? I have read nothing on that. It suits the engine of my truck pretty well on a daily basis. Of course, prior to bullet casting, I wash it off real well. I am not seeing any degredation on my castings and no detremental results on my moulds. Still, if it a practice to be avoided, with proper justification I can change.

[Jim]

The only oil that goes on my molds is a tiny drop of Amsoil Professional Saber on the joint between sprue cutter and the block and a very thin film on the bottom of the sprue plate and the top of the blocks just before I start casting.

I don't leave my molds outside, so they don't rust.

[dragon813gt]

I'm betting they are saying no oil because they don't want to clean the oil off before use. Oil is not going to hurt a steel mold. But no all oils are created equal. Some can leave a hard varnish behind, like WD40. Because of the climate I live in I never bothered w/ steel molds. Any steel parts on my brass/aluminum molds get coated w/ fully synthetic two stroke oil. Which is commonly referred to as sprue plate lube.

[dromia]

There it is again. Why not use oil on a steel mould between casting sessions? Is there something wrong about oil on steel of which I don't know? I have read nothing on that. It suits the engine of my truck pretty well on a daily basis. Of course, prior to bullet casting, I wash it off real well. I am not seeing any degredation on my castings and no detremental results on my moulds. Still, if it a practice to be avoided, with proper justification I can change.


I don't see any one here saying that there is anything wrong with oiling your moulds or suggesting that it is "bad" or that you should change your practice, people are just saying what they choose to do. If you choose to oil your moulds and it makes you happy then good for you oil away, no one is suggesting it is an either or.

I choose not to do it because firstly I have no need to and secondly it saves me having to clean the mould of the oil every session.

Relax this all supposed to be fun. :grin::grin::wink:

[JLK]

Here's the Brownell's paper.
They caution it's use on brass or aluminum:

http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/shop-accessories-supplies/gun-storage-materials/gun-wrap-paper/gunwrap-trade-paper-prod1197.aspx
JLK

[bhn22]

I use Eds Red. It works beautifully, and comes off cleanly with brake cleaner or acetone.

[Cadillo]

My moulds are iron and brass. The iron ones are hosed down with RemOil after use. Prior to reuse, they are hosed down with 91% alcohol from CVS Pharmacy. No rust, no hazardous fumes, and no wrinkles if properly preheated.

[Tarkid]

I use a product named "The Inhibitor V80" by Plano. It is a blend of volatile corrosion inhibitors and a light oil in a spray can. I don't apply it to the moulds, but to a small piece of paper that I put into a ziplock back with the mould. It's worked for many years, and no rust. This is the same type of chemical that is on the brown pieces of paper that new guns are wrapped in. A small can lasts for years when used this way.

[montana_charlie]

There it is again. Why not use oil on a steel mould between casting sessions?
Still, if it a practice to be avoided, with proper justification I can change.
I was going to add my thoughts on mould oiling, but it would just be 'piling on'. Others have adequately informed you that they don't oil their moulds because they have no need to ... and, because of the climate here, I am one of those.

However, you use oil as a rust inhibitor ... not a lubricant. If you are in the habit of using any form of wax to 'lube' the sprue plate pivot ... or any other part of a mould ... that is a place where change would be beneficial.

CM

[MtGun44]

OK, is this British "parafin" which I think is more like US "kerosene" or a light oil or liquid
fuel for old fashioned wick lamps, or US "parafin" which is candle wax, solid at room temp?

Scrub with toothbrush and Comet and rinse with very hot water.

Bill

PS - It helps to fill out the "location" part of the info form to help understand "where you are coming
from" - literally.

[gunoil]

soap and water on my lymans

[Rattlesnake Charlie]

Carburetor cleaner to degrease.

I use some spray oil (Rem Oil currently) for storage on all (brass, aluminum, and steel) of my molds. Even in the dry climate of New Mexico.

[Echo]

Acetone is cheap, and will take off dang near anything...

[Ammohouse]

After a casting session I coat the mold in Liquid Wrench.
Before a casting session I use carb cleaner and my propane torch to burn off anything.
I'm just a rookie at this though.