Can these be used for making point forming die?

[customcutter]

I was looking for a carbide burr the other day and found about a dozen of these.

73208

73207

They are .125 inch solid carbide burrs. I'm still trying to figure out some way to use them for making point forming dies for .224, the only thing I can see them being used for is a round nose .224, by the time they are rotated out to .224 diameter. I don't think it can be done for a regular 6 ogive, any one else got any ideas?

Maybe I need to make a gun to shoot .125 bullets?:D

thanks,
CC

[Cane_man]

i dunno but you might be on to something, here is a "pointed tree carbide burr"

http://www.walshengineering.com/shop/images/1880_med.jpg

don't know what the profile is but it sure looks close to what we are after

7/32 = 0.219

if you could find one with a max diameter of 7/32 if might be worth looking into... you could ream out the die then lap it to 0.224


edit: can you take a 0.25" carbide bit and somehow cut it down to 0.220 or so?

[customcutter]

I think that would definitely work. Partially drill, then use that "pointed tree" burr, to rough in the ogive, then lap to final dimension. That might actually work. Gotta find me one and get it ordered. Maybe by the time it arrives, I'll be able to use it. I'm sure they make them in metric also, if it got a little closer to final size.

thanks,
CC

[Cane_man]

lots of these 1/4" pointed tree type carbide burrs on evilbay for $5 to $10, i might get me one to see if i can chuck it up in the lathe and take a small file to it and get it to 0.220 or so... this swaging stuff is almost as much fun as sex, almost, but at least there are no strings attached and you can leave it when you want!

:guntootsmiley:

edit: cc seems like you are feeling better, hope you can get out in the garage tomorrow and fire up the lathe

[customcutter]

Just checked the drill size chart. A #2 drill is .2210, only .003 to final lap size if you can find a "tree burr" shape that you like.

[customcutter]

Cane, you won't be able to turn down a carbide burr, unless you are using a diamond, or silicon carbide wheel. Carbide will just eat a file, like butter. Plus grinding it down, I don't think it will cut any more.

Can't seem to find a 7/32 or #2 sized tree burr. Maybe my "google fu" is weak tonight. At least that is what I'm hoping.

CC

[runfiverun]

you don't have to use the whole cutter.
just the nose from one and the ogive from another etc would suffice.
blending the angles and the final polish is where all the work is anyway.

[customcutter]

you don't have to use the whole cutter.
just the nose from one and the ogive from another etc would suffice.
blending the angles and the final polish is where all the work is anyway.

runfiverun,

You are absolutely correct. Hadn't thought of that even though Cane-man mentioned it. It didn't dawn on me. Simply grind down the section that is +.220-.221. Still use the point to form the ogive. Might be easier than making D-reamers or 4 flute reamers. Just have to try it and see which one works best. It will take at least a silicon carbide wheel to cut it though. Might have to eventually invest in a diamond wheel and tool grinder. Unfortunately, I fried my homemade rotary phase converter on my surface grinder last week. Hopefully it's just the start capacitor.

thanks,
CC

[customcutter]

lots of these 1/4" pointed tree type carbide burrs on evilbay for $5 to $10, i might get me one to see if i can chuck it up in the lathe and take a small file to it and get it to 0.220 or so... this swaging stuff is almost as much fun as sex, almost, but at least there are no strings attached and you can leave it when you want!

:guntootsmiley:

edit: cc seems like you are feeling better, hope you can get out in the garage tomorrow and fire up the lathe

Cane, didn't see where you were going with this till runfiverun explained it. It might just work.

Feeling a little better today. This bronchitis sucks, the humidty is probably +90%, and everytime I go outside, it seems like someone is holding my head under water. My lungs start loading up and the cough comes back. 30 minutes outside and it takes a couple of hours in the AC to get back to normal. I did manage to bring in the controller for my cnc mill. I managed to install the 2 gecko drives I blew up last month. Still can't believe that they repaired them free of charge, even though I told them I knew I had caused the damage and I bought the mill and cnc conversion from someone else. Great customer service on their part. I've got about 6 months worth of projects I want to get started on.

CC

[Cane_man]

exactly, just take off the part from 0.25 to 0.220 or so, could even be like a relief angle at the top of the burr... just not sure what tool will take it down considering it is carbide... i ended up getting one off evilbay...

just finishing up some stuff on my 40sw/10mm swaging dies for a few more weeks... hardened an O1 insert today in my okie heat treating furnace, and when i quenched in oil the surface of the oil lit on fire! it was awesome... the part is in my kitchen oven now for tempering then i test it out tonight... hope you feel better, bro

[Prospector Howard]

I've had some luck with carbide burs. The picture up above looks like a "double cut". I made my point die for my .40 S & W to .429 with cone shaped 28 degree carbide burs. Started with the "double cut" and finished with the "single cut" before lapping. Worked pretty good, and a nice angle too for a truncated cone bullet. They do tend to "bite" into the steel, and they're pretty easy to chip; so go slow. Are any of you using the Harbor Freight "cobalt" 115 drill bit set? I've bought 2 sets of them. They aren't bad bits for the money; about 80 bucks with the coupon. Alot of sizes including wire gauge sizes.

[customcutter]

Cane, the only thing that is going to cut carbide is a green silicon carbide stone wheel, or a diamond wheel. If you go the green silicon carbide wheel make sure you use a respirator, and plenty of ventilation. There will be plenty of dust, and it is a health hazard.

PH, I've got a cheap set of bits contains fractional, letter, and number sizes. When I started on my first die, I drilled to depth with the largest, then used each smaller drill bit feeding in slightly more with the tail stock, till I got down to 3/32. I drilled all the way through with the 3/32. I was trying to step form the ogive best I could with the drill bits, before starting with a reamer. I've been under the weather since I broke the first 4 flute reamer, trying to smooth it out. I do have 2 more points made to make reamers from. I thought I'd try a D reamer with the smallest, and another 4 flute with the slightly larger one. This time I'll remember to temper them back after heat treating. I actually tried to grind the D reamer a couple of days ago and the start capacitor failed on my home made rotary phase converter, that powers my #2 6X18 Reid surface grinder.

thanks,
CC

[Cane_man]

OK CC i see what you are saying... i have that green wheel on my bench grinder, wont have to take off very much at all... when the burr comes in i will measure the curvature and see how close it is to 6S, me thinks it is real close but we shall see...

Howard, i can see that with these burrs and the many shapes they come in it would be very easy to convert them to pistol ogives without too much difficulty...