Old Linotype

[GeauxShoot]

40 years ago I bought a large quanity of Linotype from a gentleman who claimed to be retired from our local newspaper. The ingots are long and slinder (flat on one side) and weigh approximately 22 lbs each. Back in the day, I was a young teenager and cast them exclusively for my .357 . Honestly, its been so long I don't remember much except it was fun.

Well, I'm ready to play around with it again and would like to load for 22-250, 30-06 and 9mm and would like to push them as fast as possible (at least to start with). Also, I'd prefer not to get into blended mixtures but would rather cast it like it is . . .

Is this resonable or doomed for failure?
Any direction on where to start?

Thanks in advance for help to an older newbie!

[Defcon-One]

All of my Linotype ingots are as you described. They look like a big Lead needle with a funny eye on one end and a dull point at the other. All are 22 pounds nominal weight and flat on the bottom. Sounds like you do have Linotype!

For your .22-250 and .30-06 you can use it as is, it will cast beautifully, though it is a big waste of good Linotype to use it straight, if you are using gas checks. However, if you are not using gas checks, then Pure Linotype would be a good way to go.

Linotype was the dream metal for high powered rifle casting way back when. Now it is harder to find and valued at about $1.50 to $2.00 per pound, so people tend to mix it with cheaper wheel weight metal or pure lead to stretch it out a bit.

For the 9mm you should mix it 50/50 with Pure Lead, for Hardball alloy, or dilute it even more for a good general purpose pistol alloy.

It would be crazy to shoot Pure Linotype in your 9mm, but if you do, I'd like to be there to dig up your fired bullets from the berm! What a JACK POT!

[Boyscout]

The way a printer described it to me what you have is linotype pigs. The ingot hangs above the melting pot by the "eye" and is lowered into the melt as the linotype machines run to keep the levels where they need to be. They also believed them to be in the 20 lb. range each.

[Lloyd Smale]

linotype is excellent for your rilfe bullets and its also excellent for your 9mm stuff. Only thing is in the pistol you could get away with a softer alloy and lineotype these days its pretty expensive and its so hard to find that id think about conserving it. What i like is a 5050 mix of linotype and ww. It makes a great rifle alloy and has given steller accuracy in handguns.

[slohunter]

In the 1980's I was getting Linotype in 22 lb bars for $4.00. So much available, I start turning it down. Still kick myself in the a$$.

[Defcon-One]

In the 1980's I was getting Linotype in 22 lb bars for $4.00. So much available, I start turning it down. Still kick myself in the a$$.

If I knew you, I'd kick you too! What an opportunity, but I suspect that you got quite a bit.

Most of it went into Cast Bullets in the form of Magnum Alloy mixed 50/50 with pure lead. The rest likely went to the scrappers, ouch!

DC-1

[GeauxShoot]

Much thanks. That's exactly what I was hoping to hear. I know it may sound crazy but until I retire, I simply don't have the time to fiddle with dilution and I've got more than I will likely ever likely cast and shoot. Additionally, basic reloading supplies (powder & primers) are still extremely scarce in my area. I'm simply wanting to reserve my expensive bullets and shoot cast just to be able to 'Geaux Shoot'. Said another way, I guess I'm not quite ready to enter the nostalgic phase of cast bullets only.

Anyway, one more question I was wondering if you could elaborate on . . . ? As for the gas checks on the 30 & 22 cal stuff. Shooting Linotype at higher velocities, what benefit exactly do I achieve from using them? All my rifles are high end stuff and I would simply like to obtain the best end result for my effort. Appreciate your input . . . happy shooting!

[Defcon-One]

Sorry, just found this now!

With softer alloys the gas checks make a solid copper bottom on the bullet. They are added during the sizing/lubing process. They add cost and are not really neccessary if you are using pure Linotype.

I use them on Lyman #2 bullets for rifle only. On slightly softer alloys in magnum pistols only.

You do not need them unless you are really pushing velocities. Basically they are used to seal the bore better and prevent leading at higher velocities.