.38 S&W black powder loads

[Ray1946]

I have an older revolver from the turn of the last century that is in .38 S&W cal. The patent date on the bottom of the grip is Nov. 08'. I was told this was strong enough for smokeless powder, but I would like to shoot black in it for the smoke. I am wondering if I could use one of the many black-powder substitutes in this gun? I have a few cans of Triple7, one each in 2F and 3F grade. Would this be too much pressure for these old guns? Thanks and have a good one...........................

[cajun shooter]

I'm probably not the best person to answer this as I don't believe in shooting any of the subs. They are just that. They are not the real thing and only have smoke to give as the impression of being the real thing.
If you want to shoot real BP then why not do so. It is easy to purchase and easy to load and clean. It will give you the true effects of what the early shooters experienced, smoke, sparks and fire from the barrel on every round. You do have to be careful as it may become very addictive.
The 38 S&W round will not hold a lot of powder and therefore may be a bit small to give you that full effect.
If you have a SASS match close to you contact them and see if they have any BP shooters. They will be able to give you hands on help. Good Luck

[mazo kid]

Is the gun a top-break design? If not, then I would say that you SHOULD be safe in using the Triple7 powder at a 10% reduction in powder weight. In fact, you should be safe in using that load in the top-breaks. I recently loaded up a box of 38 S&W for some of my top-break S&W guns and about all the Goex 3fg I could get in the case was 10 grains. Try at your own risk, I am only expressing my view.

[Ray1946]

It is a top-break design; an Iver-Johnson owl-head. The one I have is the 3rd version with the coil spring lock work and is the first one rated for smokeless powder. Its a real sweetheart; about 50% bluing and the inside looks mint. I think it set in a bureau drawer for several decades. The action was a little stiff when I got it, so I completely dismantled it for a thorough cleanup. Wow!, you can't imagine the parts in this small revolver. The old oils and greases had turned to shellac and everything was pretty nasty. I soaked most of the parts in mineral spirits overnight and that made everything cleanable, but even then some parts had to be scrubbed with a bronze brush.

I have some .38S&W brass somewhere in the house and some .38 hollow-base wadcutters. I think this might be a real fun little gun for taking to the plinking range or fishing...............................

[ironhead7544]

I would call the maker of Triple7. It might be too hot for that gun. Seems to give the highest velocities in the tests I have seen on other guns. I heard that compressed loads give very high pressures so be careful. FFFg black should be fine.

[Springfield]

If it is rated for smokeless than you can run most anything in it. ffg will give lower pressures than fffg, usually,that 's what I run in my top-breaks, but I run real BP. Keeping the bullet weight down helps also, heavier bullets are harder to push and will generate more pressure. I use 110-125 grainers in mine, full wadcutters have a lot of surface area and might raise pressures.

[Buzzard II]

You may want to clean the gun prior to shooting it with Ballistol moose milk to get rid of any gun oils/cleaners as they will promote fouling. Use the Ballistol moose milk to clean the gun after that (Ballistol and water mixed in a spray bottle-read the label). Spray with Ballistol gun lube after cleaning. Use a bullet with black powder lube on it, not smokeless lube. KIK is a good powder, I prefer it over Goex. Cajun Shooter recommended it to me awhile back and it worked real good in my Uberti Henry.44-40, I'm using 2F. Slug the bore/chamber to insure the right size bullet. 20-1 alloy is a good place to start, gun will tell you what it likes. I don't shoot BP subs either. Good shooting! Bob