My garand has changed it's mind ..

[Digger]

Finally had a chance to go out to the range yesterday and put a few rounds down the tube .
Been slowly working up my loads from 30 gr of 4895 to 32 and the rifle was putting the brass to my right and to the back (like far back !) , gotta get another extraction spring or two to modify to lighten up on that throw.
Well I put a batch of 32 grainers thru and all my brass it landing to the right and in front !
Using the Mihec 169 gr and getting to learn what the gun likes and not.
Question ..... higher pressure , faster cycle time ? ,,,, getting a little to high ?
Thought I would tap some of the wisdom here that is available and have helped me greatly so far .
By the way , had a clip of NOE's 311365 200 gr. sitting on the bench and an older gentleman came by and said , "wow , do you turn those things in a lathe ?" ....[smilie=1:
I Just smiled ...

[Blammer]

tell him you pour them an see what he says/does. :)

[country gent]

Watch the "hump" on the op rod with full power loads cycling the way it should the hump will hit the fired case lightly throwing it forward. Look for a small brass mark on it. Im not sure about cast bullet loads but your getting into the range for this to start. My garands are all 308 NM for high power. I always hated a garand or M1A on the line throwing straight out the side. Had the scars on my back from 06 case dropping under my coat and sweatshirt during a prone stage. Was that thing ever hot on tender skin. Ejector spring will affect the angle of ejection more so than ejector will. A new set of springs and dont cut more than a half coil on one or the other at a time. Mine eject the cases right in front of my shooting mats right corner just in front of my stool. Another trick is to "port" the gas plug with a small hole. This will tone ejection down also. A tapped hole with set screws drilled makes it adjustable even

[Digger]

Yeah Blammer , I occasionally tell people I pour , they wind up with "deer in the head lights " look in their eyes ....
And thanks for the input there Country gent ... mine is 308 and didn't think I was getting that far up the scale at 32 gr of 4895 but every gun/load is different for a multitude of reasons ..
That is a great tip on the op rod bumping the shells out .. thanks a bunch .
When I get around to ordering a couple of new springs I will experiment with how much to take off , also will see if I can include a national match front sight ... much better than the stock vertical bar/tip at distance ..
Also a good note on the gas plug .. a home grown version of that adjustable plug that is on the market , forgot the name
I highly doubt one could find this kind of info in a book ....;-)
Thanks again gentlemen.

[Gtek]

Are you sure the OP spring may not be a little on the weak side. I call them perfect if tossing between 1:00 and 2:00 o'clock. Gtek

[Digger]

Are you sure the OP spring may not be a little on the weak side. I call them perfect if tossing between 1:00 and 2:00 o'clock. Gtek

That is also a good item to check into there Gtek .. will have to pick another one up to compare.

[country gent]

Schuster manufacturing Makes a adjustable gas plug and other accessories right here in Toledo Ohio. When I shot the garand in NRA High power I used a standard width front sight tapered and angled to NM shape but standard width as It was easier to see when I was tired.( why is it 600 yds is at the end of the day) I could do shoot a very respectable score at 600yds with the wider front post. I even made them for my M1As when I converted to them. It isnt much work with a bridgeport to convert battle front to NM style. I had a little block made up with the angles on the sides and taper on the bottom. Set it in vise and side mill one side to just clean up rotate 180* and repeat. Mill taper on top of blade. Blue or blacken. Heres another trick. Cut front sight down in hieght to set your shortest range zero at 1-2 clicks. Error X sight radious / distance in inches tells you how many thousandths to remove. When I set up my first rifle I used a battle rear sight. Drilled out appeture hole and taped 10-32 installed a set screw and cleant it up flush front and back. Redrilled .052 appeture hole. cut and formed bottom of slide so it bottomed on front of sight recess mortise instead of bottom. Coated slide with pam cooking spary and base with JB weld epoxy assembled and letcure clamped with vise grips and a pin on slider. Let cure. disassembled and cleaned up "flash". Lighty lapped slide to new surfaces with shimichrome. work slow and easy. I the shot the rifle with the Old zero and was roughly 10" high at 200 yds. cut front sight to match for 2 clk 200 yds zero. My new 600 yd zero was lower than the old 300 yd zero giving a much better cheek weld. Also the "at rest" op rod sping should measure 18" no kinks or bends. Hope this info is helpfull.

[Digger]

Schuster manufacturing Makes a adjustable gas plug and other accessories right here in Toledo Ohio. When I shot the garand in NRA High power I used a standard width front sight tapered and angled to NM shape but standard width as It was easier to see when I was tired.( why is it 600 yds is at the end of the day) I could do shoot a very respectable score at 600yds with the wider front post. I even made them for my M1As when I converted to them. It isnt much work with a bridgeport to convert battle front to NM style. I had a little block made up with the angles on the sides and taper on the bottom. Set it in vise and side mill one side to just clean up rotate 180* and repeat. Mill taper on top of blade. Blue or blacken. Heres another trick. Cut front sight down in hieght to set your shortest range zero at 1-2 clicks. Error X sight radious / distance in inches tells you how many thousandths to remove. When I set up my first rifle I used a battle rear sight. Drilled out appeture hole and taped 10-32 installed a set screw and cleant it up flush front and back. Redrilled .052 appeture hole. cut and formed bottom of slide so it bottomed on front of sight recess mortise instead of bottom. Coated slide with pam cooking spary and base with JB weld epoxy assembled and letcure clamped with vise grips and a pin on slider. Let cure. disassembled and cleaned up "flash". Lighty lapped slide to new surfaces with shimichrome. work slow and easy. I the shot the rifle with the Old zero and was roughly 10" high at 200 yds. cut front sight to match for 2 clk 200 yds zero. My new 600 yd zero was lower than the old 300 yd zero giving a much better cheek weld. Also the "at rest" op rod sping should measure 18" no kinks or bends. Hope this info is helpfull.

Wow ! , think I will print this one out .... thanks a bunch.

[country gent]

Digger If you have any questions on the sight mods PM me more than happy to help out