Screws backing out in my 629

[Airman Basic]

Picked up a four inch S&W 629 online. Took it out today and while quite accurate, I'm having trouble with the cylinder/crane retention screw and the cylinder release screw working loose while firing. Is Locktite a viable option? Or any other ideas appreciated.

[country gent]

Try nail polish or paint on the threads. locktite will make them almost imposible to remove if you should need to. On small screws cleaned properly blue locktite can be permanant. Need ing heat to break lose.

[Clay M]

Purple Loctite #222 Midway sells it.

[Airman Basic]

Now I've noticed the crane itself is backing out, making it hard to open the cylinder. Same solution?

[Clay M]

I would try the purple Loctite , it is mild enough that it will not lock the threads in permanently .You can always remove it and clean it up with acetone or nail polish remover.

[44man]

I have no problems with any loc-Tite, even red. Screws will come out. Use blue if you are worried.
You should find it at any good auto parts store.
I have even epoxied screws in. They will come out if you take a copper or brass rod the size of the screw head, heat it red hot and hold it on the screw a short time. The glue will be destroyed and the screw will come out.
I have had screws back out even with red Loc-Tite.

[Mal Paso]

Welcome to the club! Clean first with a solvent that leaves no residue before the Loctite. I use Chemtool B12 and Blue Loctite. You should also do the ejector rod (Left Hand Thread) and the mainspring tension screw. Clean well and just a very little loctite.

Also the ejector center pin peens and needs to have the burr removed every so often.

The 629 shoots the screws loose and is built too light but has the best, easy to tune trigger.

[km101]

I have used the Purple Loc-tite and have not had any more problems with loose screws. And you don't have to use any kind of heat to remove them.

And the advice on the center pin is excellent! When you start to have trouble releasing the cylinder it's time to remove the peening on the center pin.

[Firebricker]

Like stated above blue loctite should fix it right up just degrease them first. FB

[Airman Basic]

What's the best way to remove the ejector center pin peening burr?

[Mal Paso]

A fine file or stone. Just need to remove the material that's larger than the shaft.

[9.3X62AL]

I've yet to use Loctite on any sideplate or ejector screw threads. I take a screwdriver set to the range or field with me, and check the screws for snugness every 50 rounds or so. In the S&Ws, I don't run 240-250 grainers past 1200 FPS. This helps keep parts in place. A lot. For nuclear loads, I have a Redhawk. And a day worker from the Home Depot parking lot to carry it for me. :)

[rintinglen]

Al, you need to work out more and get your strength up.

I knew a guy back in the 80's who worked for a Department in Orange county who carried a 5 inch Redhawk on duty. I made him a holster for it--at that time their were no suitable duty holsters available.

I use nail polish on screws to prevent them working loose. Degrease the screw and the hole thoroughly, let dry, and dab a little on the screw and run it home. Don't over do it though, you don't want a blob getting into the cylinder yoke well.

[9.3X62AL]

Glen, a few of those Orange County agencies authorized some really nice hardware in effective calibers back in the day.

You're right, a little more exercise might enable easier carry of that bodacious boat anchor. One curious factoid......in Summer 2002, Marie and I were obliged OUT of a berry patch in the local mountains by a rather pissed-off black bear, and I used the RH to cover our retreat back to the truck. At that time I didn't notice its weight at all, and was thinking that something heavier, longer, and perhaps belt-fed would have been more appropriate. Real-time Theory Of Relativity for us, there.

[Mal Paso]

I shoot the 629 most every weekend but the gun I carry in the woods is a 4" Redhawk or Anaconda. A good belt is necessary or that 3 1/5 pound gun will beat you up. I like the Galco SB2 belt with their DAO194 holster. I wear it high and tight to my body and I almost forget it's there. Mountain Lion here Bear up North, it's my standard safety equipment.

[gofastman]

Loctite is ok, but Vibratite VC-3 is better!
It holds stuff super well but its still easy to remove

the only problem with it is that it doesnt work well in high temps (over 150*F or so)

[practical_man]

What's the best way to remove the ejector center pin peening burr?


A fine file or stone. Just need to remove the material that's larger than the shaft.

Airman

I would NOT stone the center pin. You are better off peening the material back into place in most cases. Relieving the pin can create problems opening the cylinder.

Blue loctite is your friend on side plate screws. And also on the ejector rod. Completely disassembling the cylinder frequently does more harm than good unless you have the right tools to correct misalignment.

[Tatume]

I have no problems with any loc-Tite, even red. Screws will come out. Use blue if you are worried.
You should find it at any good auto parts store.

Be careful. The advice above is correct, but there are other brands of thread sealer. Some brands color the permanent sealer blue and semi-permanent is red. This is just the opposite of Loctite brand.

Loctite® Threadlocker Blue 242® Designed for the locking and sealing of threaded fasteners which require normal disassembly with standard hand tools. http://www.loctiteproducts.com/threadlockers.shtml

Take care, Tom

[osteodoc08]

Every wheel gun shooter should have correctly slotted screw drivers and blue locktite. I keep it in my range bag. Just used it last time for a grip screw backing out on a Ruger Mk III with aftermarket grips.