Easy to build gas checkmaker

[Idz]

I put together this writeup of how anybody with a small lathe can make their own gas checkmaker. I've made about 1000 checks of various calibers and the dies and punches still function as new. If you decide to build one let me know how it turns out. Enjoy!

[dkf]

I will have to make one when I get time.

Just an FYI if someone uses 1018 to construct it and wants to harden it for durability. Pick up a small can of Kasenite and follow the directions on the can.(will need oxyfuel torch) It will put a nice 60rc+ case roughly .030" deep on the steel. All the nuts on my Lee decapper pins get case hardened with it.(helps prevent galling)

[Idz]

Hardening isn't really necessary unless you want to go into mass production. You would probably want to use a steel that finishes better than 1018 CRS before going to the effort of hardening it. My goal was easy to build and use at the lowest cost. Yesterday, I punched out another 200 40cal PB checks and still don't see any wear on the punch or die. I decided to spray a little furniture polish on my aluminum strips after every 50 or so checks just to lube things a little.

[plus1hdcp]

Thanks for sharing. I will have to keep this in mind as someday (another one of those to do later) I would like to try this out.

[tjones]

Well the little Freechex II in 22 sets on the bench, doesn't tie up a press and is really hard to beat. Check as needed. Hard as a rock too, use it as needed and less than $50 total. Two operation rig but never touch the cutouts, bam bam and nice checks out of .010 brass shim stock for under $20 shipped from Enco. -tj

[Idz]

84644
Photo of punched out disk, strip material, and complete checks. Disk punching and forming is done in one stroke.
84645
Photo of check installed on bullet next to fired and recovered bullet.
84646
Image of the checkmaker in operation on a Lee Reloader Press. An old pill bottle screwed on top of the punch catches checks. It doesn't take much force to use this checkmaker so Lee's cheapest press has worked fine for several thousand checks so far.

[WILCO]

Just checked out the PDF. Very detailed and well written. Thanks for taking the time to share this Idz.

[drinks]

Nice, if I did not have a 5 year supply of Gator checks on hand, I would make one.
DKF, I found a recipe for a brine that lets you harden 1018 CR very much as the CM alloys are hardened, I have tried it and got decent results.

[goofyoldfart]

hey drinks------------ care to share the recipe for some of us others? God Bless to all and yours.


Goofyoldfart < aka GOF, Goofy and Godfrey>

[Lead Fred]

Sure glad I just bought them from Pat. Takes out all the hassle

[Forrest r]

Lets see:
1 pull of the handle vs pull handle make disc, put disc in container, install forming die, put disc in forming die, pull handle again. BIG HASSLE!!!
1 size fits all when buying a check maker/checks. BIG HASSLE!!!

Only people that demand the best accuracy from their firearms/cast bullets make their own gc makers to tailor their gc's to the bullet shank/base size & wall height they want to use. It's nothing for a person that makes their own gc maker to make different diameter stems so that the same die body can be used to make checks from several different thicknesses of types of gc material. Or use the same die body to make gc's for .355" & then .360" bullet bases.

With custom made gc makers there is no pb gc maker only. Or a regular gc that fits on bullets cast with a gc shank only. Or the gc maker is limited to only .003" to .005" material.

Yup, I'd rather buy a gc makers that takes 3 times as long & twice the work that is limited in the materials that I can use & only makes 1 gc size fits all rather than have 1 custom gc makers that easily can & will replace 3 of the others, NOT!!!!

[whelenshooter]

I put together this writeup of how anybody with a small lathe can make their own gas checkmaker. I've made about 1000 checks of various calibers and the dies and punches still function as new. If you decide to build one let me know how it turns out. Enjoy!

Thanks for info and effort. This is something I've wanted to do.

[Reg]

Good project !!
Need to make one up in .22

[Mike3855]

I downloaded the PDF and read it. Looks like a project I can take on in the shop. From your photos it looks like it does a good job, too. Soon as hunting season is over I'll try my had at it. Thanks!

[WILCO]

I downloaded the PDF and read it.

Welcome aboard Mike3855!!!

[LtFrankDrebbin]

Thank you for this one.
When time allows will have a go at making one in 25 cal.

[DLeeHarley]

Thanks a lot Idz I'm a real newbie at casting and I've got loads to learn, but one of my life long friends is a machinist with his own lathe and also CNC unit, so I'll have to make him an offer that he can't refuse. I've been lurking around here for sometime now and have been taking all kinds of notes and the like. almost enough to fill a 3 ring binder, but I'm sure it'll all be a great asset as I move along. Thanks again all of you. Later,

Dennis in Idaho

“Those who Talk, don't do. Those who Do, Don't Talk!”

[donhuff]

Idz,

Thanks for posting this. They work great!
88536

DonHuff

[delmar]

I'm not sure I will ever get around to this, but that is awesome[p!

[Idz]

22 Bator bullet gas check. Same design as my write-up except I used a 1/4" end mill counterbore in the die body. Die disc punch hole is #O drill (0.316"), Punch forming hole is #A drill (0.234"), forming pin 0.216".

photo shows checked Bator bullet, cast bullet and a check

89983

89982

[Hexbasher]

IDZ;

thanks alot for posting those plans, my machining to-do list has grown alot since joining this forum

[MacFan]

Thank you Idz,
I wanted to experiment with slightly larger gas checks for my AK that slugged out at .3128
and there was nothing available off the shelf.
Material is O-1 and 4140. Machining time maybe 60 minutes. The aluminum is Amerimax .014 roof flashing. My press is a Lee Classic Turret. I'm going shooting on Monday. :grin:

91070

[MacFan]

I will have to make one when I get time.

Just an FYI if someone uses 1018 to construct it and wants to harden it for durability. Pick up a small can of Kasenite and follow the directions on the can.(will need oxyfuel torch) It will put a nice 60rc+ case roughly .030" deep on the steel. All the nuts on my Lee decapper pins get case hardened with it.(helps prevent galling)

I'll have to agree that these probably won't need hardening. I've cut and formed over 600 checks in the past couple days and see absolutely no evidence of wear while punching .014 roof flashing. If wear does become a problem I'll probably just take a slight trim cut off the punch and die both... or trim cut and harden if I ever feel really ambitious.

[Fritz D]

I've made a gas check maker using the plans on this thread, but my first gas checks are nothing special. I'm using .008" aluminum offset printing plates to make my checks (for NOE 269145 mold). The punch is working perfectly and forming a clean 3/8" diameter disk. The base of the check is formed nicely but the upper edges are very ragged and some of the checks have little chunks torn out. I think the forming hole in my punch needs to be smoothed, but I'm wondering if the printing plate alloy might be too brittle. Has anyone ever used offset printing plates to make gas checks?

92121

[quiver]

I think your material is too thin. I get the same results with Pat Marlins checkmaker with 0.009" aluminium flashing.

[WILCO]

I think your material is too thin.

Yep. I've had good results with .016" aluminum flashing.

[Chill Wills]

Nice! Thanks for the plans!

I have a few honey do projects to knock out before I can get back into the shop and try this out but I think I will like to be able to make my own check maker and then remake (tune it) for me and my mould's needs!

OUTSTANDING! Thanks for posting and sharing your work! Michael Rix

[Fritz D]

I think your material is too thin. I get the same results with Pat Marlins checkmaker with 0.009" aluminium flashing.

Thanks for the reply. The gas check shank on my mold is way oversize to accommodate a thick gas check, that is why I was using .008" material.

[wistlepig1]

Here is an old post that may help.
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?207814-MyCheckmaker

[flintsghost]

Since I can't find good .410 GC's I guess I'll have to study these plans to try and make some.

[khmer6]

Thanks

[Forrest r]

I'm glad to see people interested in making their own gc's, the makers are simple enough to make & use. Being able to customize you gc's to your specific needs is a huge plus. I've made gc makers that use a hammer, use a reloading press & use a arbor press. Still like to use an arbor press the best for gc's but that's just me. I do use the arbor press to swage lead bullets & bullet jackets so seeing how it's laying around I figured I might as well use it.

I'm also a huge fan of the 1 pull of the handle ='s 1 gc. A couple of gc makers I made from scrap steel I had laying around. Left, 44cal gc maker with them installed on some 200gr hp's (H&G 142). Right, 35cal gc maker with them installed on a 358156hp.

92895

Any of these styles of gc makers in this thread are easy to make, if nothing else give one of them a try. It's only around $1 in materials to make them.

forrest r

[kullas]

I made me one of these and i like it. Thanks for the plans

[SlippShodd]

I checked a while back on 7/8-14 rod at my local machine tool store, don't remember what price they quoted me, but it was more than I felt like spending at the time to make a push-through sizer. Printed out these plans last week, went back today and hit the mini-jackpot. Pulled the 3-foot stick of rod out of the display and asked what the price was. She looked, said, "How about $1.99?" Hell, I'da paid that per foot! Obviously, I asked if they had any more, but, no, they're closing it out. I did, however, immediately go buy lottery tickets.

mike
----> Clear the lathe off!

[Milsurp Junkie]

Anyone here with a machine shop want to make me a couple of these? I need a 30, 357 and 45 caliber one. PM me and we can discuss the price.
MJ

[Faret]

These things work great!!! Made one in .22, .30 and 45 pb with soda cans for material. Thanks for posting the plans you saved guys like me a ton!

[WVHunter129]

Thanks for the plans. I have a FreeChex III gas check maker for my .224 cast bullets, but I am wanting one for 30 caliber bullets, especially now that I have built a 300 BLK. And I would like to get one for 357 Mag cast bullets. My other caliber that I cast for I really don't need a gas check maker. I have saved the plans, now it is to find someone with the tools or a machine shop that I can get to make me two of these. I could probably do it myself but I don't have a lathe or a drill press. IF anyone would be willing to make me just these two I mentioned, send me a PM with what you would charge me. I will keep it discreat if you don't want to be making them for everyone. Thanks.

[a.squibload]

I talked with my Dental Tech, she is familiar with Castboolits.
Her friend has a lathe, I sent the link to this thread.
I'm hoping they'll be interested in trying it!

I skimmed through the pdf, haven't figured out how one die will make
different diameter GCs, does it need several different punch assemblies?

My RCBS 44-225 works pretty good with a GC and 11gn of Unique.
I'm also trying powdercoating which works well, but probably won't give up on
traditional boolit types, I like variety, and what works still works.

[jellybean]

Idz, thank you for the post and plans. My machining skills rate somewhere just below my reading comprehension skills, but I'm going to give it a try.

By any chance, does anyone happen to know the specs for .41 caliber gas checks using the Hornady chart Idz used in his post?

Also, I was thinking about trying to use a Lee handgun expander die for a universal punch body for the smaller caliber GCs. Has anyone tried this yet?

[gunoholic]

Made a .310 set out of 4140 scraps on sunday, a little average with with drink can ali. So I got a sheet of .45 mm today as that was as small as they had. After the die got a slight hone and polish it makes nice checks that push on tight and size down nicely. The only down fall is now I'll have to make all the other cal die sets I need.

[knobster]

Thanks for the pdf. I'll print it out and add it to my huge 'gotta make' pile. Fortunately this freezing winter will keep me at my workbench.

[a.squibload]

I sent an email to the gal whose friend has a lathe, no response.
Might try again. In the meantime I had an open box of Lyman GCs from the '70s,
figured I'd use 'em up before the box falls apart.
RCBS 44, 225 swc, actually about 235gns.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-5s0dZ14flYY/UvVZ517F0_I/AAAAAAAAAso/Qa3orXfu4Hg/w640-h480-no/GC44s.JPG

[milrifle]

I've got the first two pieces made. Hope to make the forming piece tonight. It punches nice discs, but I got my bore oversize. My 13/32 bit drilled a .426 hole instead of .406. I hope it will still be OK. If not, I guess I can chalk it up to a learning experience and start over. Got plenty of raw material to make another one.

[Faret]

I found it easier to bore a hole under size and then use a boring bar to get to the right size. Makes a better hole too.

[trail troll]

What do you use to cut the slice for the stock? Cut off wheel? Getting that 1/32 slice seems tough.

[Faret]

I just used a hack saw but I think a cut off wheel on a grinder (air or electric) would work just fine.

[milrifle]

I used a band saw. I'm no machinist, but I didn't understand the instructions about using a collet and a cut off saw. I thought a collet was like a chuck, so I'm not sure how that is used with a cut off saw. I thought about trying a cut off wheel in my die grinder, but was afraid I wouldn't get it square. I left my stock long, drilled the big hole, then clamped it in my band saw to cut the slot, then I cut it to length and machined the 'shell holder' end.

[A pause for the COZ]

How cool is this?
I have a lathe coming this week and wanted to pop on to get some ideas for a check maker.
I must have been sending positive Karma over the ether.;-)

[woodbutcher]

:-D Nice thread.And I just found TWO 50ft rolls of aluminum roof flashing at the local dumpsters.
Good luck.Have fun.Be safe.
Leo

[muzzleblastm38]

can somebody email me the pdf

my laptop wont let me open the pdf


marc-Antoine_noreau@Hotmail.com



thanks

[muzzleblastm38]

between antoine and noreau is a Under score

thanks

[Idz]

Here's my drawings for the checkmaker for the 22 Bator cast bullet

99880
99881
99882

[ipijohn]

Idz, thank you for the post and plans. My machining skills rate somewhere just below my reading comprehension skills, but I'm going to give it a try.

By any chance, does anyone happen to know the specs for .41 caliber gas checks using the Hornady chart Idz used in his post?

Also, I was thinking about trying to use a Lee handgun expander die for a universal punch body for the smaller caliber GCs. Has anyone tried this yet?

I made a universal punch body out of an old expander die. I bought a piece of 5/8 ground drill rod and make punches out of it that are held in the retired expander die with a set screw. I bored a .626 dia flat bottom hole in the expander die to slip the punches into. With this setup I only have to make a punch and insert it into the threaded expander die, it makes all of the parts for the whole punch round (no single point cut threads).

[wistlepig1]

Here is an old post that may be helpful.
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?207814-MyCheckmaker

[gpidaho]

Fritz D: Im using the same metal (I think) same thickness as yours and was definitely used in the printing industry. Same result. And the .008-.009 check does not crimp tightly on the check shank. The coke bottle cap look gets a little less apparent as the dimension increases I am using .014 aluminum today and am still not real happy with the results. Still looks like the coke cap but now is very difficult to get on the shank. I hope to get this working soon, at the moment a little frustrated with the whole thing, Ill take a brake and think about it a bit. Thoughts? GP

[Buck Neck It]

Okay, I finished one of these in .30 yesterday, it made useable checks from junk flashing and pop cans first try. This is a great set of plans that took a lot of effort and generosity(!) to present for anyone to use.

Thank you IDZ

[Bored1]

Now if I just had a lathe! (and the knowledge to use it)

[tdoor4570]

If any one would be interested in making a couple of these for me , send me a pm, I do not have a lathe or know how to use one

[mattw]

I have to ask the question that has been asked before... Is there someone here I can work with to get 4 or a subset of the 4 made? I would need .30 .357, .40PB and .416 Hornady style for LBT moulds. I just do not have the tools to even come close to doing this and I really like the simplicity and design. Paid for work of course.

Please PM me if you are interested in doing any of the above, the .416 is the most needed one.

Thanks Matt

[DukeInFlorida]

So, I had my Engineering Department (Chuckbuster) work on making me one of these. After making amazing quality parts, he reported that there were some issues:

1) The vertical pushing of the gas checks created some issues. After a couple of gas checks formed, the gas checks started falling back downwards into the tool, creating problems with subsequent gas checks.
2) Doing these tools on a RockChucker press has the front support of the press in the way. Using other tools, I have been cutting "double wide" strips of material, and punching up one edge, turning around, and going back the other edge. The clearance on this tool, in the front column support of the RockChucker design doesn't allow a double wide strip.

Has anyone made this tool, for use in a RCBS RockChucker?

Results? Suggestions for above?

And, the RockChucker design has a place in the movement of the ram, where the levers "cam over" allowing easier pressure to make the tools work. What I have seen so far is I can't get this tool to work other than mid way through the press stroke. I had to put an extension on the lever arm. Ideas?

[Idz]

In answer to your question #1 if I understand your description of the problem that the check is being pulled back down out of the die. I've only seen that happen if I don't pay attention and short stroke the operation. If I run the punch all the way up, until it contacts the die, the skirt of the formed check springs open and catches on the lip of the backbored clearance hole and is stripped off the punch.
The other problem could be using much thinner stock that can't spring open enough to catch the lip.

As for the Rockchucker difficulty I suggest investing $25 and getting a Lee press. Its probably easier and cheaper than designing a work-around.

Good Luck and let us know how it all works out.

[SlippShodd]

I made 2 of them, 1 in the .22 Bator form, 1 in .35 cal, consistent with the as presented dimensions. I noticed in tweaking them that the radius of the forming insert had to be smoother than I originally would have thought, and that the cutting edge of the disc punch had to be immaculate. Those were the only things that required any real follow-up work to ease production. I built both of them specifically to work on a RockChucker and had no issues with feeding strips. I tested them all with a variety of metals: .010-.014 aluminum, .010 brass, copper, beer can bottoms, beer can sidewalls... made acceptable looking checks with all, made acceptable working checks from the brass, copper, and aluminum flashing. I used either single or double wide strips and they caused me no grief as long as I held them firm to the backside of the cutout. I intend to make a couple more come spring after my knee is healed up. I think the design is sound.

mike

[SlippShodd]

128270
Thought I'd share my personal hack for cutting the slot on Idz' gas check maker. It's essentially a cheap, homemade toolpost grinder, using a Dremel tool mounted to a quick-change toolholder. Originally, it was designed to hold a HF trim router, but I couldn't use that for this project, so I made a soft wood bushing to hold the Dremel. The 1.25x.045" fiberglass cutoff wheel will last through the entire plunge if you're careful. It takes a while going slow... feeding it .001 at a time with the crossfeed, and rocking the chuck back and forth gently (which is why the chuck key is still in the chuck). With my leg immobilized, I got lots of time to sit on the shop stool and let it work.
It makes a very smooth, clean slot, and it looks a bunch better than the first one I cut with a mini hacksaw. :)

mike
----> too cheap to buy the proper tools...

[Retumbo]

Brilliant, cant wait to try building my own and then getting rid of the PM I bought second hand.

Single stroke is where its at

[mattw]

So, I had my Engineering Department (Chuckbuster) work on making me one of these. After making amazing quality parts, he reported that there were some issues:

1) The vertical pushing of the gas checks created some issues. After a couple of gas checks formed, the gas checks started falling back downwards into the tool, creating problems with subsequent gas checks.
2) Doing these tools on a RockChucker press has the front support of the press in the way. Using other tools, I have been cutting "double wide" strips of material, and punching up one edge, turning around, and going back the other edge. The clearance on this tool, in the front column support of the RockChucker design doesn't allow a double wide strip.

Has anyone made this tool, for use in a RCBS RockChucker?

Results? Suggestions for above?

And, the RockChucker design has a place in the movement of the ram, where the levers "cam over" allowing easier pressure to make the tools work. What I have seen so far is I can't get this tool to work other than mid way through the press stroke. I had to put an extension on the lever arm. Ideas?


I want to use one of these with either the supreme or the RC-2. However I do not have the ability or friends to make a set. I would still like to know if it is good.

[Retumbo]

Well my thread cutting tooling should be here tomorrow. I will keep things simple for now and follow Edward Smith's write up. I will be cutting threads so that this puppy can fit in my lee press.

Wish me luck

[Retumbo]

WOW!

That's all I can say. My advice to anyone considering making their own checks is to get or build one of these.

I have already sold the Pat Marlins and have requests from friends to make them one.

These really are the cats meow.

A great big thanks to IDZ and the rest for taking time to put everything down on paper, made life real easy.

[git_dr1]

Yes! Big thanks to IDZ for posting this. I have built several check makers based on this post including a cap maker similar to the "Tap a Cap".

Again, big thanks to IDZ. I am surprised this hasn't became a sticky yet.


git_dr1

[Faret]

What is the tap a cap used for?

[git_dr1]

Making percussion caps from pop cans.

[tdoor4570]

Wish someone would consider making me a couple of these

[Retumbo]

I believe this should be on here too. My next job, Made by Mykos. http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?145754-Impressed-with-FreeChex

130090

[Idz]

For those interested in making percussion caps, they may be interested in this thread from last summer. I think most of the homemade capmakers had input on the discussion.

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?249374-Homemade-percussion-cap-tests

[git_dr1]

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...sion-cap-tests (http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?249374-Homemade-percussion-cap-tests)



Thanks, I don't know how I missed this.

git_dr1

[Retumbo]

Nothing better to do when you cant go outside.

130352

[Idz]

I heard from a few folks who are making my percussion capmaker and thought I'd share how I prepare the soda can raw material:
1) Wearing leather gloves and using a sharp paring knife slice off the top of can at the shoulder.
2) Using a kitchen scissors cut down the side of the can along the straight line were the label paint overlaps.
3) Use the scissors to cut off the bottom of the can at the shoulder.
4) Use a guillotine paper cutter to trim off the ragged edges where the top and bottom were cut off. Trim the sheet to 3 3/8" wide.
5) Now use the paper cutter to cut the 3 3/8" wide sheet into three 1 1/8" wide strips. A tuna fish can makes a perfect storage container for the strips.
6) Take two strips and place the painted side together and secure the ends with a small piece of tape. The opposing curl of the strips yields a nice flat uniform piece that works great for punching.
7) A very light spray of furniture polish on the assembled strip lubes it so it punches cleanly and doesn't smear aluminum in the punch and die.
8) After punching a few dozen caps I've noticed aluminum chips build up in the die so I remove it and shake it out.

When punching the caps make sure the strip is completely inserted in the slot. You should have a nice round hole punched out.
When punching make sure the ram is completely stroked so the punch and die bottom out. If not fully bottomed out the cap isn't stripped off the forming pin and the next cap will jam into it.

good luck!

[berksglh]

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/06/26/86655547b3728ec01d67655edf4d9ba4.jpg
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/06/26/890ecb15ab9e98e0cb191d569c86895f.jpg

My DIY tall check and a standard OEM checkhttp://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/06/26/9466818754bba256281e34a23e10f056.jpg

Thanks for sharing this DIY project! I made a modified 22 tall GC die for use on my 72g 0.228" NOE bullets with .0.216 shank. Worked awesome first try with .013 flashing.. Gas checks snap on nice, but fell off after sizing, untill i figured out the flashing needed to be annealed first. Now the checks grip like mad.

Anxious to PC and test some.

Thanks again for the great info...

Dave.

[CaptREDD]

IDZ,

ALBQ?.....Lincoln, here....


REDD

[Idz]

The kids are in Abq. We're up in Los Alamos

[abqcaster]

I've made two of these already. one for .35cal and one for .40 cal. They work great! Many many thanks!
-ABQ

[Retumbo]

Forged further ahead and made a percussioncap maker.190058

[abqcaster]

Forged further ahead and made a percussioncap maker.190058
That's excellent! Good job!

[abqcaster]

I attached an empty Chobani yogurt cup to the top in a similar manner to the pill vial. It's wide enough to reach into and pull out a handful of checks, as it fills, to transfer to my storage container. But, it's not so wide as to interfere with punching checks.

[jlnel2]

Great idea.

[PMB]

Finding a way to make gas checks has been on my mind lately- excellent work, and thank you for sharing your projects. Much appreciated!

[leadlobber2]

Thank you Idz . I made a couple of check makers from your plans , for one of my Nephews .He is just getting started in reloading . They work great , so thank you from both of us . I guess now you have to share the blame for starting him down the road to ruin . LOL . I made several of the " whack a mole " type check makers before this ,but your design is much better .

[WickedColt]

Thank you Idz . I made a couple of check makers from your plans , for one of my Nephews .He is just getting started in reloading . They work great , so thank you from both of us . I guess now you have to share the blame for starting him down the road to ruin . LOL . I made several of the " whack a mole " type check makers before this ,but your design is much better .

If you decide you'd like to make a 30 caliber one for me, please let me know as I'd happily buy one!! No access to the tools necessary...unfortunately.

[MBfrontier]

First, I would like to thank Idz for making his check maker write-up available on this forum.

I never thought about making my own gas checks until I saw this thread. I have had problems with leading in my 9mm's and read about those that made their own gas checks out of soda/beer cans that they size onto PB boolits. Since I am a hobby machinist (learning rookie) I thought this would be a fun project.

I started by making a check maker for 9mm but made a rookie mistake and ended up making one for 45 ACP instead (long story). Anyway, after making the 45 cal. check maker it worked pretty good. The only problem I had was making it work on my RCBS Rockchucker Press. It's difficult to hold the aluminum strips in the correct position while punching out the check. After a little trial and error I was able to create checks just fine but a little slow. Anyway, I was more interested in taking a crack at another 9mm check maker so I reviewed the dimensions of the punch, made some changes, and went back out to the shop and fired up the lathe. I made the threaded portion of the punch longer to make it easier to hold the aluminum strips in the die on my Rockchucker. In addition, I made an extended piece on the top of the punch to hold a Lee cup that's clear red plastic that comes with their boolit sizing dies. Success, I'm punching out 9mm gas checks that fit the bases of my 9mm .358 boolits much easier on my Rockchucker.

While making the longer die I learned that drill bits wander quite a bit (still a rookie) and ended up making the punch in two pieces. One piece is the threaded body with the extension on top for the Lee catch cup and the other piece is the punch that was machine to lightly press into the threaded section secured by red Loctite. I used a small boring bar on the punch section to get the dimensions and concentricity correct before pressing it into the threaded section.

Here's a picture of both check makers with the 9mm longer die on the left and the 45 die on the right.
196368

[Charliemac]

Nice, looks like a good idea. I've made a few and found boring the important parts made a better tool.

[RP]

I think you guys need to do more of a production run making a few thousand of every size then send them to me to look over of coarse I would need to use them as needed. Nice work guys more and more I want a new toy so I can join in on the fun.

[S.E.G]

Thanks for sharing the design. I have just finished up this Gas Check Maker in 30 cal and a .312 sizing die.

I must say the simplicity in the design makes for a easy project for a wet and rainy afternoon.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170605/2fb2ee2d50a626d239b99840389febc1.jpg

[aephilli822]

so, why is this not a sticky?
just so I hafta put it in my favorites?

[smoked turkey]

Sticky: +1

[Retumbo]

Because it might make "Pat Marlin" cry

[Sagebrush7]

S.E.G. You will have to make your 30 caliber checks out of thicker material, around .014 thick if you are sizing to .312. Those are nice bottle caps for your first try.!




Thanks for sharing the design. I have just finished up this Gas Check Maker in 30 cal and a .312 sizing die.

I must say the simplicity in the design makes for a easy project for a wet and rainy afternoon.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170605/2fb2ee2d50a626d239b99840389febc1.jpg

[Oklahoma Rebel]

hey original poster, I don't have a lathe, would you make me one, and how much would you charge? it is for a 9.3 (.366) so they aren't that common so it would be nice, thanks,-Travis

[root]

I'll be making one soon for myself since no place local Sells reloading supplies.
Thanks for the original write up and plans.
I can see making these for all the boolits I cast for that need checks so a labeled small plastic parts container is in order.

Again thanks for the pd.

Rich

[Soundguy]

that looks awesome!

[MaxJon]

I have nearly finished two for .45 caliber but I still not confident in cutting the slot with a hacksaw, and don't have a dremel tool handy.

[RP]

I been looking real hard at buying a lathe but having to find enough reasons to spend the money I forgot about this project so one more reason I can justify buying one. I been told I would find several things to do with it when I owned one maybe they were right lol.

[abqcaster]

I been looking real hard at buying a lathe but having to find enough reasons to spend the money I forgot about this project so one more reason I can justify buying one. I been told I would find several things to do with it when I owned one maybe they were right lol.You sure will! I've made powder measure adapters, equipment knobs, thumb screws, knurled nuts.

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[dimaprok]

Made it for 30 caliber and they seat really good although on really hard lead alloy when seating and resizing with Lee sometimes I get a bit of a "lip" perhaps it could be a hair smaller otherwise it's great!
I made a video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rj4QUvSG7Ho
215374

[Traffer]

I do not have a lathe. Can't afford one. Question: Could you make primer cups with a similar rig? Could you make a primer cup Punch and die? Then all that is left is to punch anvils and we can start loading primers.

[Idz]

Traffer,
most of the folks making primers re-use fired primers and there is a long thread on making priming compound. If you really want to know about making primers locate the book "Ammunition making" by George Frost. You need some precision punching and trimming dies to make workable primers. Its much easier to recycle parts.

[Soundguy]

As a test I've pulled apart fired primers, used a punch to flatten the dent, put in home made primer compound, reset the anvil and went to town. Used 38spl as a low power test cartridge. Not awesome, but doable after primers run out during the apocalypse.

[trapper9260]

I had reload primers for handgun and shotgun and rifle and The only one that I see would give a problem is rifle because it is best to have the powder near the flash hole.So if one use something to keep the powder near the flash hole you will be ok. What i used is caps from cap guns.The ones that is made in Germany and 3F or 4F black powder. and it works no problem.For shot gun take a hole punch of brown paper and put it over the hole of the primer and then replace the anvil and then put a cap in the cup and be careful put it together and then you are good to go. But make sure after you use them in your gun to clean the gun.

[sparky45]

A stupid rookie "machinist" question : Considering the thread grade of the steel rod to be used for the die (7/8 x 14) , is a Thread grade rod of B7 acceptable? I couldn't find the Enco rod listed.

[dimaprok]

A stupid rookie "machinist" question : Considering the thread grade of the steel rod to be used for the die (7/8 x 14) , is a Thread grade rod of B7 acceptable? I couldn't find the Enco rod listed.Sorry, I have no idea, I bought my threaded rod from local hardware store called "Tacoma Screw", I was being lazy to cut my own threads but threaded rod has poor metal. I ordered O1 tool steel this time and we'll be making version 2, this time I'll use NOE resizing die as a threaded body. But if I didn't have that I would machine something similar myself.

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[Traffer]

A stupid rookie "machinist" question : Considering the thread grade of the steel rod to be used for the die (7/8 x 14) , is a Thread grade rod of B7 acceptable? I couldn't find the Enco rod listed.

I have never seen hard threaded rod. I use grade 8 bolts. They suck for making dies because of the inconsistency of hardness. You will be drilling or machine and hit a hard spot and unless you have tungsten carbide tools, it will cause problems. I am going to start annealing them this summer. Then harden them after the machining is done. I wouldn't even attempt to use threaded rod for a die. It seem softer than a grade 2 bolt to me. Even the grade 8 dies I make don't last long.

[cavhasbeen]

The B7 all thread is certainly superior to generic plated all thread. I have used it to make dies for forming an re-sizing brass for 44 shotshells. Also a person could harden it after machining. Using Casenite or Kasenite (sp?) if it is still available would be the easy way.

[dimaprok]

I have never seen hard threaded rod. I use grade 8 bolts. They suck for making dies because of the inconsistency of hardness. You will be drilling or machine and hit a hard spot and unless you have tungsten carbide tools, it will cause problems. I am going to start annealing them this summer. Then harden them after the machining is done. I wouldn't even attempt to use threaded rod for a die. It seem softer than a grade 2 bolt to me. Even the grade 8 dies I make don't last long. So it turns out my threaded rod is pretty hard, at least when machining like harder to machine than O1 tool steel

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[Retumbo]

I made mine out of plain cold rolled steel. Made thousands before I had to sharpen the die.

I guess metal choice depends if you want to mare 1000's or 10,000's or 100,000's.

My die works for me. If I ever need hundreds of thousands of gas checks I would get a real machinist to make one for me ;)

[Soundguy]

I have never seen hard threaded rod. I use grade 8 bolts. They suck for making dies because of the inconsistency of hardness. You will be drilling or machine and hit a hard spot and unless you have tungsten carbide tools, it will cause problems. I am going to start annealing them this summer. Then harden them after the machining is done. I wouldn't even attempt to use threaded rod for a die. It seem softer than a grade 2 bolt to me. Even the grade 8 dies I make don't last long.

Hard threaded rod certainly exists.

gr5 threaded rod is 120k psi tensile, 92kpsi yield, and rockwell hardness of c25-c34

B7 125k 105k c26-c32

gr8 150k 130k c33-c39

[Traffer]

Hard threaded rod certainly exists.

gr5 threaded rod is 120k psi tensile, 92kpsi yield, and rockwell hardness of c25-c34

B7 125k 105k c26-c32

gr8 150k 130k c33-c39

It took a while but finally someone with knowledge spoke up. When I stated that I had never seen hard threaded rod, it was a true statement. Thanks for informing us Soundguy.

[Smoke4320]

you will also generally pay dearly for that gr8 150k 130k c33-c39 threaded rod :)

[Soundguy]

Sure, just like buying specialty fasteners that are very hard gr10, and non standard head, and length. Like cat bulldozer track pad bolts. You play, you pay.

[MaxJon]

I used 4140 alloy steel, nice to machine, and is tough! made .45 and .30 cals so far. making 8mm/.32 cal at the moment. Simple dies that work very well.

[tiber]

If anyone is making these I would love to buy ones in various calibers. I don't have any of these sorts of tools.

[dimaprok]

Forgot to add I actually use O-1 tool steel that's intended for tools like punches and I temper the punch.

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[john.k]

You can also get chrome moly heat treated studs for pipe flanges,the refineries throw away once used ones by the ton.

[dimaprok]

Made in 30 cal, and 9mm GC design and flat base .357/9mm.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180702/e0940c48b38d925d7d6cc83c0db6ce46.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180702/5867879f7ec2694c890fab3c31e80265.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180702/ac94adb98057a5f7e9860269f9167506.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180702/4b5ca8ed76d135a46d6f64ba7c16d851.jpg

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[dimaprok]

Made one in 500 S&W. Fit is snug and perfect! Bottle on top to collect GCs and to aid screwing in.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180705/a1b8a4091568b8d478c3664397284fdb.jpg

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[shanep]

84644
Photo of punched out disk, strip material, and complete checks. Disk punching and forming is done in one stroke.
84645
Photo of check installed on bullet next to fired and recovered bullet.
84646
Image of the checkmaker in operation on a Lee Reloader Press. An old pill bottle screwed on top of the punch catches checks. It doesn't take much force to use this checkmaker so Lee's cheapest press has worked fine for several thousand checks so far.That's a good idea, I have the chex 2 in 22, and 30. I'm going to go put this together on my cheap lee press like yours. Thanks

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[dimaprok]

I made a universal punch body out of an old expander die. I bought a piece of 5/8 ground drill rod and make punches out of it that are held in the retired expander die with a set screw. I bored a .626 dia flat bottom hole in the expander die to slip the punches into. With this setup I only have to make a punch and insert it into the threaded expander die, it makes all of the parts for the whole punch round (no single point cut threads).how are you holding the punch inside? Do you have set screw in side? I tried this except I just used threaded rod and the set screw needs to clear threads, there is just not enough material unless your set screw is below which brings its own set of problems. Do you have picture?

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[shanep]

What does this look like to you guys. It mics at .355. Bought it in a bunch of old stuff. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180923/c676af02c70981a1ea9067f93772da39.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180923/66adb1c8a05d31b5c9da5797dab3b09b.jpg

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[otarov]

Hello. I want to try to make according to your drawing. There are several questions - because I am from Russia, we have all sizes in millimeters. Internal and thread diameter for twisting in the press will remain unchanged. Is it possible to adjust external dimensions?

[superc]

Thank you for the file. Something to do on a snowy day. :)

[Faret]

What does this look like to you guys. It mics at .355. Bought it in a bunch of old stuff. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180923/c676af02c70981a1ea9067f93772da39.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180923/66adb1c8a05d31b5c9da5797dab3b09b.jpg

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Those look like swaging dies. I would post this in the swaging section.

[shootsblanks]

my uncle is a machinist and will be building me one of these sometime this month, minor modification to make plain base checks from .004 thick pop can aluminum because I am cheap. should be a 0.312 inside diameter on the check (my plane base 30 cal molds all drop between 3105 and 3115), will post results when it arrives

[EMC45]

Made one in 50 cal for someone. Fit is snug and perfect! Bottle on top to collect GCs and to aid screwing in.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180705/a1b8a4091568b8d478c3664397284fdb.jpg

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I like how your check maker doesn't "nibble" a bite out of the check like some do.

[dimaprok]

my uncle is a machinist and will be building me one of these sometime this month, minor modification to make plain base checks from .004 thick pop can aluminum because I am cheap. should be a 0.312 inside diameter on the check (my plane base 30 cal molds all drop between 3105 and 3115), will post results when it arrives

Standard pop cans are .004, there is one brand of coconut water I found to be .005, this is not enough for 30 caliber. The math is simple, you measure the shank and I don't have my notes but if I recall it's .285, you add .005 x 2 and you end up with .295 - that's way under .309-311 so that means the gas check won't crimp and stay on. I found that you need about .012 or more. You might get my with .010 if you PC first.

[dimaprok]

I like how your check maker doesn't "nibble" a bite out of the check like some do.

The secret is close fit between punch and body. I strive between 0 and .001 max tolerance. The original plans called for up to .002, it might be ok for thicker material but I found that you want to get as close as you can for that laser clean cut punch even if I am close to the edge to make a hair thin edge it doesn't fold or nibble the edge.

[shootsblanks]

Standard pop cans are .004, there is one brand of coconut water I found to be .005, this is not enough for 30 caliber. The math is simple, you measure the shank and I don't have my notes but if I recall it's .285, you add .005 x 2 and you end up with .295 - that's way under .309-311 so that means the gas check won't crimp and stay on. I found that you need about .012 or more. You might get my with .010 if you PC first.
That is why i am having the checkmaker designed to produce a check with an ID of .312, i will be using them on plain base bullets and thicker material would be undesireable.
I believe Pat Marlin sells something similar and the resulting checks have been given great reviews.

[dimaprok]

For plain base yes, I'll be making one too soon. Most of 30 cal molds though are not plain base.

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[longbow]

I made the Ed Smith gas check maker but use a mallet, not a loading press (so far anyway). I use 0.019" old gutter material for checks. They extrude a bit but easy to make with a mallet. Might be a bit much for a loading press at that thickness. Not sure about that.

There must be lots of old gutter available so a free source of check material if it isn't too thick for you.

I plan plan on making a PB checkmaker too.

Your checkmaker does form a very nice check. I think I'll tighten up my clearances a bit when I make the next one.

Longbow

[shootsblanks]

My checkmaker took longer than expected but it works pretty good! Checks are almost 60 dollars in Canada and my 3030 hunting/target load is now down to $220/1000 from 280, thats significant for me, the .004 thick popcans are a pita to work with, sometimes they turn sideways in the die during forming and if i do not notice right away the next 10 are ruined.

Edit;
How i fixed it; I raised the forming mandrel with a thin washer so it protrudes into the slot for feeding material and applies pressure to the underside of the aluminum strip during the cutting operation. This prevents the material from having a chance to shift in the 5 thou between being cut and coming into contact with the mandrel,

[cast367]

Shootsblanks,
Look by sage outdoors.com , its very interresting

[dimaprok]

My checkmaker took longer than expected but it works pretty good! Checks are almost 60 dollars in Canada and my 3030 hunting/target load is now down to $220/1000 from 280, thats significant for me, the .004 thick popcans are a pita to work with, sometimes they turn sideways in the die during forming and if i do not notice right away the next 10 are ruined.

Edit;
How i fixed it; I raised the forming mandrel with a thin washer so it protrudes into the slot for feeding material and applies pressure to the underside of the aluminum strip during the cutting operation. This prevents the material from having a chance to shift in the 5 thou between being cut and coming into contact with the mandrel,Is it 1 stage or 2 like Pat Parlins? Mine never shifts when I punch, but I do push it slightly against the back of the slot, still I can go fast, I timed once about 100 gas checks in 3 min from pop cans.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190605/3ed8075e954268482c227e392be1f632.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190605/b06ae31ac8131b9cf412f2bc4863a987.jpg

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[shootsblanks]

Is it 1 stage or 2 like Pat Parlins? Mine never shifts when I punch, but I do push it slightly against the back of the slot, still I can go fast, I timed once about 100 gas checks in 3 min from pop cans.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190605/3ed8075e954268482c227e392be1f632.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190605/b06ae31ac8131b9cf412f2bc4863a987.jpg

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Super slow reply on my end sorry.
It is a 1 stage, i had issue with the .004 being found between muzzle and target at inconsistant distances, AND in the berm... switched to .012 thick flashing and that was solved, as was my malformed check problem but, after sizing my bullets to crimp on the check the, material forms a convex base, it appears consistant, and does not seem to lead so off to the range.

the groups fired last night are not reliable as i have a sunburn induced flinch at the moment, anything more than my plinker loads is painfull!
i only had the 25 meter range but out of 5 shots i put 3 into 1/4" center to center and the next 2 went almost exactly 1" higher and 1" lower, but were perfect for windage.
243788
I am optimisitic, i believe that had more to do with my shooting than the checks, i will know for sure next week once my burn heals up and i can shoot properly again. I do not believe that an out of square check would manifest perfect vertical stringing that extreme at that short a range
Load was 29.4gr varget under a noe sc311-165, no chrony data yet but estimate between 1950-2000fps

[dimaprok]

Hello. I want to try to make according to your drawing. There are several questions - because I am from Russia, we have all sizes in millimeters. Internal and thread diameter for twisting in the press will remain unchanged. Is it possible to adjust external dimensions?

Можешь писать в личку по Русски dimaprok@gmail.com Только увидел твой пост счас.

[dimaprok]

Super slow reply on my end sorry.
It is a 1 stage, i had issue with the .004 being found between muzzle and target at inconsistant distances, AND in the berm... switched to .012 thick flashing and that was solved, as was my malformed check problem but, after sizing my bullets to crimp on the check the, material forms a convex base, it appears consistant, and does not seem to lead so off to the range.

the groups fired last night are not reliable as i have a sunburn induced flinch at the moment, anything more than my plinker loads is painfull!
i only had the 25 meter range but out of 5 shots i put 3 into 1/4" center to center and the next 2 went almost exactly 1" higher and 1" lower, but were perfect for windage.

I am optimisitic, i believe that had more to do with my shooting than the checks, i will know for sure next week once my burn heals up and i can shoot properly again. I do not believe that an out of square check would manifest perfect vertical stringing that extreme at that short a range
Load was 29.4gr varget under a noe sc311-165, no chrony data yet but estimate between 1950-2000fps

I haven't tested my flat base gas checks yet sadly not enough time. The only flat base 30 cal bullet I have is NOE HTC 153 and shoots very good without a gas check around 2000 fps. I am getting pretty good results with traditional gas checks and powder coated 134gr bullet (NOE 130) velocity 2330fps, cartridge 7.62x40 with 23.5gr of 1680. Both of these shoot 1" or better at 50 yards. The thick .012 flashing would deform the base of bullet quite a bit. If you don't want concave, size it with base up or use lubrisizer, the best results are with later.

[shootsblanks]

I haven't tested my flat base gas checks yet sadly not enough time. The only flat base 30 cal bullet I have is NOE HTC 153 and shoots very good without a gas check around 2000 fps. I am getting pretty good results with traditional gas checks and powder coated 134gr bullet (NOE 130) velocity 2330fps, cartridge 7.62x40 with 23.5gr of 1680. Both of these shoot 1" or better at 50 yards. The thick .012 flashing would deform the base of bullet quite a bit. If you don't want concave, size it with base up or use lubrisizer, the best results are with later.

2000fps is pretty fast for plain base! I was under the impression that you need a check even with htc

I believe you are right and my material is just too thick, when i was punching them from pop cans they would seat nice and flat, but had leading, terrible accuracy. i was also finding checks on the ground strewn muzzle to target and on recovered bullets alike,

[jhunt1981]

Well, I just found another project to add to my list, lol. I'll definitely be making one (or several) of these in the future...

[kavemankel]

I am going to try and put it on my list of things to make. Definitely need one on hand for every caliber I cast.

[MaxJon]

I've made 3 of these now, in .45, 8mm, and .30 cal. They all seem to come out with a bigger than desired corner radius on the perimeter of the check, compared to Hornady checks. I'm thinking it's the shearing, and forming in one process that's causing it. I think the 2 step set up, disc cutter, then cup in a separate die may solve this, as per Corbins GCM 1 set up.
I'm using copper flashing of .012, and .015 thickness.

Any thoughts??
Regards BB

[crandall crank]

I'm getting ready to have a set (.30, .35, .40 and .45) built by the machinist at work. In addition to these, I also need one for .44 Mag. Can someone please let me know the dimensions that are needed for this? I downloaded the pdf, but no 44 Mag is listed. HELP!

[MaxJon]

I put together this writeup of how anybody with a small lathe can make their own gas checkmaker. I've made about 1000 checks of various calibers and the dies and punches still function as new. If you decide to build one let me know how it turns out. Enjoy!

Thanks ldz! I have made a few now. I have noticed the 13/32 disk size is too big for .30 cal checks however. Based on the .287 bullet shank size, the checks come out at .095" high. I would prefer the .075" as per Hornady. I am of the belief that, the disk size is more like 3/8"
Just my observations, and thanks again!

[dimaprok]

it's not too big, 13/32 is .406, I use .400 and my gas checks are .070 +/- .003. I measure from inside gas check with calipers end. if you're getting .095" measured inside most likely cause is your punch ID is too small and GC is getting stretched. Open up your ID .314 - .317"
Also .287" forming pin seems too big, should be .284". If the bullet shank is tapered, I pick middle of the road.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200501/a68308d8e7c684dc1cb68291e487b009.jpg

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[MaxJon]

it's not too big, 13/32 is .406, I use .400 and my gas checks are .070 +/- .003. I measure from inside gas check with calipers end. if you're getting .095" measured inside most likely cause is your punch ID is too small and GC is getting stretched. Open up your ID .314 - .317"
Also .287" forming pin seems too big, should be .284". If the bullet shank is tapered, I pick middle of the road.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200501/a68308d8e7c684dc1cb68291e487b009.jpg

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I'm using copper also, maybe a problem.....

[dimaprok]

I doubt copper is problem, how thick is it? Measuring sheet metal with calipers is tricky, best done with micrometer. Measure the punch ID with calipers, just the first 1/4" and report. I am working on one right now as I write. I made so many 30 cals I got all dimensions memorized :)
here's a pic. This works real well with .012 aluminum from Home Depot (Gibraltar) or .014" Amerimax. Before I opened up punch ID from .312 it was stretching thicker gas checks and they would get stuck on forming pin too.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200501/c4a205f4e60b5afd75d6d6aaf35f65cf.jpg

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[MaxJon]

I doubt copper is problem, how thick is it? Measuring sheet metal with calipers is tricky, best done with micrometer. Measure the punch ID with calipers, just the first 1/4" and report. I am working on one right now as I write. I made so many 30 cals I got all dimensions memorized :)
here's a pic. This works real well with .012 aluminum from Home Depot (Gibraltar) or .014" Amerimax. Before I opened up punch ID from .312 it was stretching thicker gas checks and they would get stuck on forming pin too.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200501/c4a205f4e60b5afd75d6d6aaf35f65cf.jpg

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Thanks for your help! It was with .012 copper sheet. But my punch is not as big as .316" I have on hand .012" and .020" copper sheet.
I will confirm dimensions and get back to you.
I always measure with a micrometer where possible.
Thanks again!

[dimaprok]

.012" thickness should work nicely. I never tried copper myself because I can't find it local and online it cost as much as factory gas checks.

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[MaxJon]

it's not too big, 13/32 is .406, I use .400 and my gas checks are .070 +/- .003. I measure from inside gas check with calipers end. if you're getting .095" measured inside most likely cause is your punch ID is too small and GC is getting stretched. Open up your ID .314 - .317"
Also .287" forming pin seems too big, should be .284". If the bullet shank is tapered, I pick middle of the road.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200501/a68308d8e7c684dc1cb68291e487b009.jpg

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Thanks again dimaprok.
My bad, further research reveals that .406 is spot on! I think i need to confirm my punch ID is .316 and my forming post is .284, and i believe my problems will be solved! I think some compensations need to be factored in for when the sheet material relaxes after punching/forming of the check. I am also annealing the copper maybe a help. I am out in the workshop tomorrow, if i can work out how to post some pics for you, i will! Its people like you that make this forum great!!
Thanks again!

[Teddy (punchie)]

Anyone have a copy of the PDF instructions, I'm not able to open it. Thanks, Teddy

tvjr42@gmail.com

[BC17A]

Excellent design and print for making gas checks, thank you Idz.

Finished making one for my 500 magnum Lee castings and they fit great. I used .019" aluminum purchased from Home Depot and popped out 650 checks from the 12"x24" sheet. Would have been better to use .020" since I polished open my sizer to just under .502", but powder-coating after crimping them on added the extra thickness they needed to be perfect.


266785 266786 266787

[plus1hdcp]

Nicely done BC17A. It feels great to have the freedom of making your own reloading equipment and being able to knock out 100 gas checks in quick order.

[dimaprok]

Looks really good, I made one too in the past, but I found that punching .020" aluminum was extremely difficult and I came to conclusion that anything past .014" and bigger than .35 in caliber is not meant to be punched on the press unless its a swagging press or modified linkage for extra leverage. I need to explore arbor press.

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[BC17A]

Looks really good, I made one too in the past, but I found that punching .020" aluminum was extremely difficult and I came to conclusion that anything past .014" and bigger than .35 in caliber is not meant to be punched on the press unless its a swagging press or modified linkage for extra leverage. I need to explore arbor press.

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I hear you. The little Lee press was definitely at its limit, but it managed somehow. My neighbor makes jewelry and gave me some scrap 24ga copper which is .021" thick and once through her roller gizmo was at .020". That took about 50% more force to pop through the die and was also much harder to crimp on through the sizer even after annealing them. However, just as I figured the .020" copper fit the boolit much better than the .019" aluminum. I have a small press and plan on using it to make my next batch of checks.

Also, I started on two more makers for 357 and 44 as I have a few other molds on the way. Those should be a piece-o-cake on the press compared to the thick 500's.

Here's one of the copper checks crimped on after PC. It took a firm push to seat it fully and did shave a bit of PC in the process but does hold on better than the thinner aluminum.

267038

[dimaprok]

One more thing, I wore out 2 of these cheap Lee presses mostly testing gas check dies, they have good leverage but the ram has so much play in it now, its junk.

I didn't know they had these things that can roll down a strip of metal! Are they adjustable? How wide a strip can it accept?

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[Joe504]

Dimaprok, its called a rolling mill, they ain't cheap.267063

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[BC17A]

I think most of the mills are for 3" wide material. I picked up some aluminum flashing and wonder if a mill will thin it as easily as copper. Maybe annealed first? Next time I see my neighbor I'll have to try it.

[BC17A]

Finished GS makers in 35 and 44 cal. I decided to buy a rolling mill since I have more use for one than just gas checks. This wasn't an expensive mill($170), but works like a charm and will roll material down to .002" with ease. Never realized how handy it could be. I just trammed my mill yesterday and needed a .002" shim and quickly made one from the flashing I bought for gas checks.

As for the checks, it's nice to have the ability to change the shank area length if needed by simply adjusting the thickness. What I found is with every .001" increase in material thickness that the maker has to squeeze between the pin and punch it'll stretch the check about .010". The below pic shows the difference between .011" and .008" material. The .011" material was way too thick and made the check about .035" too long for the shank. Might be great for PB checks though.

[crandall crank]

Has anyone build a set of checkmaker for 22 cal? I am wondering what dimensions are needed.

[plus1hdcp]

I have, feel free to PM me

[Crashcraft5]

I have, feel free to PM me

If anyone is interested in turning these out let me know prices. <contact data removed> PM me if you can do so. Thank you as I cannot find them and all my access to machine tools is 1100 miles away.

[Petander]

Looks really good, I made one too in the past, but I found that punching .020" aluminum was extremely difficult and I came to conclusion that anything past .014" and bigger than .35 in caliber is not meant to be punched on the press unless its a swagging press or modified linkage for extra leverage. I need to explore arbor press.



Yeah I wonder what reloading presses people are using...?


I've been trying to cut .016" , both aluminum and copper .30 cal. The first cut copper check broke a CH 205 press linkage bolt.

So I got a Redding Big Boss today. No real difference except it didn't break yet. Cutting aluminum is doable but at first the whole press bends into a big spring from my body weight, then it cuts with a big "BANG!" like smashing the table with a sledgehammer.

I'm not exaggerating. I bet the Redding can take another 50 aluminum checks before it says goodbye. My heavy desk may be ruined before though.

Everything on the table jumps and other things break, like a Hornady powder measure today. You can see it in the pic. The desk is bolted to the floor and wall, things fall from the shelves...

https://i.postimg.cc/nLB48XVq/IMG-20210303-191815.jpg

And to add to confusion, my friend who sent this tool to me also sent a video where he cuts the same 0.016" aluminum using a Lee Challenger hand press...

[405grain]

Petander: I haven't read through this whole thread yet, but back near the beginning one of the posters was talking about how they sprayed furniture wax on their strips of material. Are you using any type of lubricant, or are you pressing out the checks dry? I can't say, because I haven't done any of this yet, but adding some type of lubricant might ease the process. I'm sure that others with more experience will chime in with advise.

[Petander]

I oil the strips both sides.

That same copper punches easily with .358 Lee push through bullet sizer in the same press. Confusing indeed.

[Gewehr-Guy]

Are your checks slipping off the forming punch? On one of my home made checkmakers, the check stuck on the forming punch , and when the next disc and previous check tried to fit through the forming hole, it sheared off the lip of the second check, like the ones on top of your press. To fix that issue I polished and tapered the forming punch.

Another thing I discovered was if the slot for the copper strip was exactly 90 degrees to the shearing punch, the discs cut hard. I rather crudely cut my first slot with a hacksaw at a slight angle, by mistake, and it cut the discs much easier than when cutting the full diameter of the disc. Think of how a tin snip starts cutting on one edge, not the total length of cut at once

[dimaprok]

Petander I replied to the other thread but aside from things I listed it appears that you might have a different problem as Gewehr-Guy pointed out what most likely happened is that you got bunch of stripped gas checks accumulated on the forming pin which is causing problem. I am going to post a picture of the die I just fixed and similar problem occured. Usually it happens when you try to punch a thicker than intended sheet and end up with a ring like in your photo. Did you take your die apart and inspect it?

Also regarding angled cut, I don't think it's a good idea, yes it will make the cut easier and it's in the Eds plans but a diagonal cut is going to make an oval shape. Do you really want your gas checks to be oval? :smile:
279014

P.S. I don't use any oils or wax on my GCs because I PC my bullets but for traditional lubes that would help I imagine.

[Petander]

Well guess what,the 44 version worked right away for me!

I thought it would be harder to use than .30, I was wrong.

Why is it that the more I think, the wronger I get?


https://i.postimg.cc/26sGHrVt/IMG-20210307-143933.jpg

[Petander]

30 cal sort of works but you'll need a painkiller after making a dozen checks.

Seriously, hand palm bones are in danger if you "slap" it. Pushing with body weight is horrible for wrists.

Checks are good though.

https://i.postimg.cc/ZY2t08BL/IMG-20210307-173029.jpg

[longbow]

Also regarding angled cut, I don't think it's a good idea, yes it will make the cut easier and it's in the Eds plans but a diagonal cut is going to make an oval shape. Do you really want your gas checks to be oval? :smile:
279014

Yes, the Ed Smith graphic shows an angled cut but the actual plans show the slot at 90° to the bore and punch.

I had thought about putting a beveled edge on the disk punch but then that would lead onto the forming punch so would likely tip the disk as it started to form so would likely distort the finished check. In the end I built it per Ed's plans. As I told Petander, I am using thick old aluminum gutter material at 0.019" that actually extrudes when I make checks but I am using a mallet to punch and form, not a loading press.

Yes, that build up of checks on the forming punch looks familiar! I had trouble with my checks sticking until I put a very slight taper on the forming punch and polished it, and started oiling the strips. That fixed things. Different check maker but same basic parts and actions occurring.

Longbow

DOH! I tried to reply with partial quote but got the pic too! Can't seem to remove the pic now. I am a simple old guy!

[Petander]

Thanks everyone, these 0.40 mm aluminum checks are superb.

https://i.postimg.cc/PqpgCFHt/IMG-20210307-150353.jpg

I have some 0.30 mm copper coming to see if that helps. 0.40 copper really is extreme, like an elephant jumping around in your reloading room. Everything rattles and falls...

[MEU974]

Hello,
can somebody email me the pdf ? (gas checkmaker)
Thanks

[MEU974]

denis.meunier37@free.fr:lovebooli

[DanInCt]

Thanks for these plans! You know its hard times when gas checks are in demand!

[0verkill]

I saw Wal-Mart.com had some cheap lathes. I know they wouldn't be up to task to start my own business, but just to turn out a couple of these and a few other projects how would they hold up?

[Soundguy]

I never knew wm had lathes?... Metal lathes?

[0verkill]

Never saw them in the stores, but they had them on their website. Some of the descriptions were terrible, very eBay-ish. First one I saw said metal lathe but was a mill from what my uneducated eyes could tell, clicked on one that looked like a lathe but it said only for softer metals like aluminum and copper. Had some more, I'll try to find a link. I've had decent luck with some of the Hyper Tough stuff they carry, the rotary tools don't last as long as a Dremel, but for the price I can buy 3 that will outlast one Dremel. Always wanted a lathe but it may be one of those eternal wish list items, I'd have to pawn stuff to pay shipping on a real one.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/VEVOR-7-x12-Mini-Metal-Lathe-Metalworking-Woodworking-Bench-Top-Spindle-DC-Motor/994175278?findingMethod=wpa

[dimaprok]

Never saw them in the stores, but they had them on their website. Some of the descriptions were terrible, very eBay-ish. First one I saw said metal lathe but was a mill from what my uneducated eyes could tell, clicked on one that looked like a lathe but it said only for softer metals like aluminum and copper. Had some more, I'll try to find a link. I've had decent luck with some of the Hyper Tough stuff they carry, the rotary tools don't last as long as a Dremel, but for the price I can buy 3 that will outlast one Dremel. Always wanted a lathe but it may be one of those eternal wish list items, I'd have to pawn stuff to pay shipping on a real one.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/VEVOR-7-x12-Mini-Metal-Lathe-Metalworking-Woodworking-Bench-Top-Spindle-DC-Motor/994175278?findingMethod=wpa

So Walmart is trying to compete with Amazon and what they have online is not only what they carry in stores, its the stuff they sell from different partners / vendors. I strongly recommend you go with at least 7x14 lathe as from what I recall the similar model from Harbor Freight had very short bed, it wasn't just 2" that you would gain there was something else limiting that I forgot. I got mine from Grizzly because luckily we have location in WA that's 1.5 hours away and the store is very impressive full of machines and tools and I didn't have to pay for shipping or wait, just arrived and picked up. The other thing my lathe had was lever activated camover for tail stock and it's very handy. The 3" chuck that came with lathe was garbage and I wish I bought replacement sooner. I ended up getting a 4" for cheap and I couldn't believe how well it held runout compare to stock one. I could easily get .001 repeatability. Even with 14" bed I still always struggled with it being too short as actual distance between chuck and tailstock drill chuck is a lot shorter. Also the fact that they advertise 19mm about 3/4" through spindle it was in fact smaller. There was also issue with plastic threading gears breaking because how crudely machine was made in China, I broke gears and got replacements, until I found other issues like brackets that hold leadscrew don't even have ball bearings!!! I mean those things are so cheap that you can buy it under a dollar online and it was binding and breaking and the banjo for changing gears was also made so poorly, I had my uncle help me tune up everything, it was a learning curve. Once I got my Southbend, I never looked back, Grizzly still occupying space and I need to sell it.

[BC17A]

I finally went down the 223 rabbit hole. Started with the 55 grain Lee mold and finished a check maker die a few days ago. This one was definitely the most challenging as it's tiny but works well. I changed the dimensions a bit and use .008" material which crimps on the boolit very well. Best part is I rolled and annealed 25 pennies and punched out around 500 checks. Now to start reading all about cast boolit loads for the AR-15.

288298 288299 288300

[plus1hdcp]

Outstanding job BC. Can I ask what kind of roller do you have to use on the pennies? What a great idea. I have made a couple of the check makers myself and agree the 22 is difficult.

[BC17A]

Outstanding job BC. Can I ask what kind of roller do you have to use on the pennies? What a great idea. I have made a couple of the check makers myself and agree the 22 is difficult.

Back up to page 9 post #162 in this thread to see the roller I have. I believe I ordered it from Amazon. Also, pennies minted in 1982 or earlier have the most copper and after annealing work just as good as soft copper sheets.

[plus1hdcp]

Back up to page 9 post #162 in this thread to see the roller I have. I believe I ordered it from Amazon. Also, pennies minted in 1982 or earlier have the most copper and after annealing work just as good as soft copper sheets.

I remember reading that when you posted but forgot. Thanks

[Hootmix]

OK!, i have made my cutter , the only problem i am having is getting the GC to go up the punch. I am using the heat & air duct i took out from our trailer last summer (yea sucked), runs about .014+, makes nice GC's, but like i said they get stuck , if i click 4 in a row i have to take the punch out of the press and use a punch & hammer to get them out. Sooo, what have i got wrong? Loading for .311 & .313 .

coffee time. Hootmix.

[Idz]

The usual problem of checks sticking in the die is short-stroking the press. After the check is formed the punch must travel upward into the die until the skirt on the check is above the counterbore in the die. At that point the skirt springs outward and catches the lip in the die. Then when the punch is retracted the check is stripped off the punch and is left free floating in the counterbore. Make sure your press is adjusted so the punch has sufficient travel to accomplish this.

good luck

[Hootmix]

Idz, Thank you for the reply, i am using a old Herters #3 ( 35lbs) press and it lets me make a complete stroke, i am testing w/ .009-.0105 alum. and heat & air duct (as stated above) I think i see (now) where i need to go back and "counter bore", the GC's pull off the forming pin, they just won't go on up the throat of the punch to the top. I will let you know, first i have to make a boring bar. I really like the .014 it makes good looking GC's.

coffee's ready, Hootmix.

[Hootmix]

Idz, made a small boring cutter to counter bore with, made several lite cuts and now the GC's float to the top, THANK you for the info. The .009 is really too thin for this cutter, will have to make one for the .009-.010 alum. What about a crimper, before the bullets are sized & lubed?

coffee's ready, Hootmix.

[Idz]

Glad it works now. If you use thinner material you may have to reduce the clearance between the punch and die.

[dimaprok]

Idz, made a small boring cutter to counter bore with, made several lite cuts and now the GC's float to the top, THANK you for the info. The .009 is really too thin for this cutter, will have to make one for the .009-.010 alum. What about a crimper, before the bullets are sized & lubed?

coffee's ready, Hootmix.Yes .010 is too thin. Do the math .010 + .284 + .010 = .304 and your bullet diameter is .311 - .312. You need .014 sheet.

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[dimaprok]

I finally went down the 223 rabbit hole. Started with the 55 grain Lee mold and finished a check maker die a few days ago. This one was definitely the most challenging as it's tiny but works well. I changed the dimensions a bit and use .008" material which crimps on the boolit very well. Best part is I rolled and annealed 25 pennies and punched out around 500 checks. Now to start reading all about cast boolit loads for the AR-15.

288298 288299 288300That is fascinating, sizing pennies down to .008! I know about the copper pennies versus newer Zinc, I wonder how the Zink would react to being sized? You can't really anneal it as it would melt easy with a torch but Zinc is naturally self lubricating.

How many times did you anneal copper pennies in between sizing steps? I actually got me a roller too thanks to your earlier post. A friend if my father who was jeweler passed away and his son was selling his equipment so I ended up with roller by trading some 9mm ammo that I made, my cost was maybe $70https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220205/171414d6a0baad65cf8333b5364f0cdb.jpg

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[Hootmix]

dimaprok, i happen to make 2 punches (3 actually first 1 will fit 44-45 bullets, there is a difference in 5/16 & 11/16 "). This gas checking is a new ball game for me and i know it shows, but everyone here sure likes to help. I'v been reading all the post's trying to see what problems others have had,,, good reading, interesting, zinc,??

Thank you, coffee's ready, Hootmix.

[kcofohio]

1st of all, thank you Idz for the plans. I finally got around to making ones for .30 and 35 cal. Right now I have .010" thick aluminum flashing. And I believe that will be okay for at least the 35.
I'm looking for .017", either aluminum or copper to try for 30 cal.
I found this at Home Depot, it's suppose to be .016".
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Sandell-Flash-Guard-8-in-x-20-ft-Copper-Step-Flashing-FG030820/202090786
Has anyone used it? Or have any source for .016-.017"?
TIA

[MUSTANG]

1st of all, thank you Idz for the plans. I finally got around to making ones for .30 and 35 cal. Right now I have .010" thick aluminum flashing. And I believe that will be okay for at least the 35.
I'm looking for .017", either aluminum or copper to try for 30 cal.
I found this at Home Depot, it's suppose to be .016".
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Sandell-Flash-Guard-8-in-x-20-ft-Copper-Step-Flashing-FG030820/202090786
Has anyone used it? Or have any source for .016-.017"?
TIA


I use and find Amerimax 4" x 50 ft aluminum flashing at 0.14" to be the best solution for my checks. There are many others using same. You can find it at Ace Hardware. Link is: https://www.acehardware.com/departments/building-supplies/roofs-and-gutters/roof-flashings/5171798

[Hootmix]

MUSTANG, i am using old heat& air duct from under our house trailer (reinsulated under trailer last year), it mics. at .015- .017, annealed, using on .30 cal. for 311291 & 311248, might give it a try. My trailer is a 14'x80', got plenty of alum.

coffee's ready, Hootmix.

[kcofohio]

I use and find Amerimax 4" x 50 ft aluminum flashing at 0.14" to be the best solution for my checks. There are many others using same. You can find it at Ace Hardware. Link is: https://www.acehardware.com/departments/building-supplies/roofs-and-gutters/roof-flashings/5171798

Thanks, I will swing into our local Ace and check it out.

[RCC]

Hi
Cant get it to download

[Retumbo]

Hi
Cant get it to download

What?

[BC17A]

That is fascinating, sizing pennies down to .008! I know about the copper pennies versus newer Zinc, I wonder how the Zink would react to being sized? You can't really anneal it as it would melt easy with a torch but Zinc is naturally self lubricating.

How many times did you anneal copper pennies in between sizing steps? I actually got me a roller too thanks to your earlier post. A friend if my father who was jeweler passed away and his son was selling his equipment so I ended up with roller by trading some 9mm ammo that I made, my cost was maybe $70


Sorry for the late reply, I missed this one.

When I size pennies I don't anneal them at all until they're at the finished thickness. Though I only thin down about .002" at a time. I suppose to speed up the process you could squeeze them more per roll but that would probably require a few annealing steps in between to keep them from cracking. I tested a few newer pennies with high zinc and things got ugly before I had any success. Old pennies are still abundant. I have a SiL that has probably more than ten thousand she'd collected over the decades. She said next time I visit she'd be glad so swap some out for bills.

[dimaprok]

Sorry for the late reply, I missed this one.

When I size pennies I don't anneal them at all until they're at the finished thickness. Though I only thin down about .002" at a time. I suppose to speed up the process you could squeeze them more per roll but that would probably require a few annealing steps in between to keep them from cracking. I tested a few newer pennies with high zinc and things got ugly before I had any success. Old pennies are still abundant. I have a SiL that has probably more than ten thousand she'd collected over the decades. She said next time I visit she'd be glad so swap some out for bills.

I annealed it 2 - 3 times during sizing, I found it really helped, without annealing it was be really hard to roll it down and wouldn't go down as much. I put it on the fire brick and run my torch across it and it would glow bright in no time. I was wondering if smaller but more steps would cause more work hardening rather than fewer but bigger steps. At any rate it's time consuming but fun to experiment.

Zinc worked too and was easier to work with but it resulted in micro cracks, I am not sure if its the copper plating causing that or Zinc is just simply not malleable as copper. I also tried to anneal Zinc but as expected it melted quickly but I do think it helped as it resulted in smoother surface from the part that wasn't melted. My daughter had couple hundred pennies in her piggy bank and while 1983 or earlier penny is not rare but is not common either.
298876298877298878298879

[kcofohio]

I use and find Amerimax 4" x 50 ft aluminum flashing at 0.14" to be the best solution for my checks. There are many others using same. You can find it at Ace Hardware. Link is: https://www.acehardware.com/departments/building-supplies/roofs-and-gutters/roof-flashings/5171798

So, about 10 months later I get the flashing and make some GCs. I had to remove some stock off of the forming die detail. And repolish. The thickness of the stock is good. It mics at .014" (the new label no longer shows the thickness), just as was needed.

[ameenkitekar]

Unable to open Gas checmaker pdf please mail to ameenkitekar@yahoo.co.in.
Best regards

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[ameenkitekar]

Pdf file is corrupted, please re-upload a fresh file od gas checkmaker making instructions and drawings.

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[longbow]

I just clicked on it and it downloaded just fine. Give it another try.

Longbow

[Idz]

for those who aren't into machining there is a company selling checkmakers that look a lot like this design and not too expensive.

https://www.powdervalley.com/product/sharpshooter-one-stroke-30-caliber-gas-check-maker/?utm_source=Klaviyo&utm_medium=Weekly&utm_campaign=Weekly%20Deals&_kx=ZcxsTkfbmBOQXkn_L6yRHd9gCNaxReTi3LbZsCpdA5Q%3D .SeB582

[elmacgyver0]

I just looked at the primer cup makers and powder valley is selling them cheap also. I just ordered a pair.
I already made a 30 cal check maker or I would have ordered that too.
Thanks for the heads up!

[Idz]

Here's another commercial version of this design:
https://sharpshooter-22lr-reloader.myshopify.com/products/one-stroke-gas-check-die-40-s-w-45-acp-44-mag?pr_prod_strat=jac&pr_rec_id=4e5d879ce&pr_rec_pid=2232512905319&pr_ref_pid=6647188553831&pr_seq=uniform

[ulav8r]

Here is an old post that may be helpful.
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?207814-MyCheckmaker

That post is totally useless as the links listed in the initial post no longer work.