Bolt jeweling jig

[La Dano]

B-Square and Wheeler engineering are not making them anymore. Any idea where I an get one?

[country gent]

Check with brownells or sinclairs int, One of them may havre one.

[La Dano]

I checked Brownells & Midways site. Forgot about Sinclair, thanx.

[David2011]

If you have a mill you might look into a 5C Spin Index fixture and maybe even a tailstock for it. They're pretty affordable on Fleabay and for jeweling you don't need super precision. You can make adapters for various bolts.

David

[docone31]

You might try this rig,
http://www272.pair.com/stevewag/jb/jb.html
Easy to make, works.

[W.R.Buchanan]

That is a old style jeweling jig, and was the way they did it back in the day. Nothing wrong with it either since if you can't make that jig, maybe you shouldn't be jeweling the bolt.

The board in back clamped to the table is the rear guide, and all that your bolt jig really has to do is hold onto the bolt securely and level so it doesn't move in the middle of one of your lines of jewels.

This is something that can make a gun look alot better, but the kicker is that the jewels have to be spaced correctly on both axis' and they must be strait lines. The correct overlap is 1/2 the dia of the jewel.

The other kicker is that if you don't get the lines strait, it will show like a sore thumb. Keep in mind the entire front of the "Spirit of St Louis" was randomly jeweled. However in that instance it was done to cover up a bunch of hammer marks in the sheet metal that looked bad. It was done with a 3" cup brush on a sidewinder,and not layed out or spaced other than by eye/hand.

This is not a hard job to do right. I suggest practicing on something a few times before you commit to doing your bolt. It is down right fun to do once you get the hang of it.

I have done several dash boards for Race cars, Jeeps etc. It is a very cool and dramatic effect, and I never charged for it because it was actually fun to do.

WE will want to see the final product.

Randy

[Mk42gunner]

I made one out of 3/8"x1½" flat stock, and used an old lathe gear with a spring loaded lock for indexing. No pictures as it disappeared along with most of my tools while I was overseas.

For my next one I plan to use a cam gear from a v-8 since they are about the right size and have the right number of teeth.

The biggest thing is to make sure both ends are aligned, and you have a way of securely holding the bolt to the indexing mechanism.

A good drill press vise with cross feed can be used for spacing, or mark the fence on your drill press table and manually slide the fixture.

Robert

[contender1]

I made my own MANY years ago in college machinist classes.

[La Dano]

After reading several reviews I'm not looking for the Bsquare any longer. I made the wooden fixture several years ago. It worked fine on my Rem510 bolt. I'm going to just build another one out of flat bar. I like the cam gear idea, sounds like that should take care of the indexing. One day I'll have a mill but I have to build my shop 1st. Hehe

[Mk42gunner]

I got the idea from an issue of Gun Test magazine. they used a 72 tooth gear and used four teeth as the index amount for I think 3/16" wire brushes, (it has been over twenty years). My original one used a spare 81 tooth gear, so I used 5 teeth as the index.

When I replaced the cam and timing chain in my truck I saved the gear, it has 36 teeth, so I am planning on using two teeth for the initial try.

Engine turning sure dresses up a Mauser bolt and extractor, as well as the barrel hood of a 1911.

Robert

[La Dano]

That sounds good and easy to do. I just used a pointer on the shaft with tick marks on the frame. The gear can actually be pinned so no accidents can happen. I have a Mauser and a Rem 700 that will get all dolled up next.

Thanx

[wch]

Take a good look at an old manual typewriter- you should be able to use the platen assembly as the basis for a jewelling jig.

[La Dano]

Old typewriters are hard to come by now a days. My kids have never even seen one. Hehe
That's all we had to learn on back in highschool. Hehe

[wch]

Old typewriters are hard to come by now a days. My kids have never even seen one. Hehe
That's all we had to learn on back in highschool. Hehe

We've got a "junque" dealer near here who sells unusable machines for $10.00; he doesn't seem to have a problem finding them.

[Tom_et]

Hello guys I’d like to refresh this page and hopefully get some new ideas and pictures
I would like to do a few bolts for myself
Thanks

[wch]

The easiest "fix" (and probably cheapest, too) is to adapt the indexing mechanism of an old typewriter.

[jeepvet]

I can not figure out where I got it, but I have an article about building your own bolt jeweling jig from wood. It looks like it will work great but I have not tried it yet. if you want the article PM me your email and I will send it to you.

[PTCSmith]

It isn't elegant, but I use this shop-made jig for jeweling. I align it with the mill table and clamp it down, then I advance the table using the hand crank 0.1 inches at a time (or 0.2 if I want to reduce the number of "swirls" by a factor of 4).

Bill Jacobs

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4887/46254838482_a53217c1d1_h.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2dto8Zd)Jeweling Jig (https://flic.kr/p/2dto8Zd) by William Jacobs (https://www.flickr.com/photos/161261784@N07/), on Flickr

[Mach_Cat]

Hi,
This was used by my dad in the 60s and 70s, he was a professional gunsmith.
Believe it came from brownells back then. Been sitting a drawer for 40 plus years.
Does need a clean up but this is a well made heavy duty tool.
Would like an idea of its value before posting for sale.

Thanks Ed

[Lionel Allen]

I did the bolt on my Swedish Mauser several years ago, and I didn't use an indexing head. I just used a machinist vice with an X-Y axis for laying out the spacing. It was simple to do, and the swirls lined up real nice. It was just a matter of getting the overlap "just right", then keeping it consistent.