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View Full Version : Sprucing up the grips on my Old Model Blackhawk



David LaPell
05-24-2013, 07:03 AM
I have two pairs of grips for my Old Model Blackhawk and I decided to spruce them up some. I had one pair of black eagles which I bought while Rugerguy was repairing the other (who did a fantastic job of repairing the one by the way). I put five coats of Tru-Oil on both sets. I am not sure which set of these I like the most, they will have to grow on me I suppose.


http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss57/Smith29-2/Picture2502_zps7b4fbaa0.jpg (http://s561.photobucket.com/user/Smith29-2/media/Picture2502_zps7b4fbaa0.jpg.html)

http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss57/Smith29-2/Picture2503_zpsbb8cbf6f.jpg (http://s561.photobucket.com/user/Smith29-2/media/Picture2503_zpsbb8cbf6f.jpg.html)

http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss57/Smith29-2/Picture2505_zps6362ea86.jpg (http://s561.photobucket.com/user/Smith29-2/media/Picture2505_zps6362ea86.jpg.html)

http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss57/Smith29-2/Picture2506_zps4ae540aa.jpg (http://s561.photobucket.com/user/Smith29-2/media/Picture2506_zps4ae540aa.jpg.html)

http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss57/Smith29-2/Picture2507_zps428e39b1.jpg (http://s561.photobucket.com/user/Smith29-2/media/Picture2507_zps428e39b1.jpg.html)

http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss57/Smith29-2/Picture2508_zpsd0e6e3e3.jpg (http://s561.photobucket.com/user/Smith29-2/media/Picture2508_zpsd0e6e3e3.jpg.html)

http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss57/Smith29-2/Picture2509_zpsf7df58a2.jpg (http://s561.photobucket.com/user/Smith29-2/media/Picture2509_zpsf7df58a2.jpg.html)

300savage
05-24-2013, 09:12 AM
I hate to be the one but they look horrible to me. Applied way too heavy with no work between coats. Sorry

fourarmed
05-24-2013, 11:45 AM
Give them a light going-over with steel wool, and you will be amazed. Tru-Oil builds up fast, and requires a little hand-rubbing to smooth it out.

Char-Gar
05-24-2013, 11:56 AM
The dimpled organ peel look doesn't do much for me. Take some 0000 steel wood and cut the finish back to the wood and do another 5 coats. Keep doing this until the gain is filled and those dimples go away. Then give a few very thin coats, let cure a week and you are good to go. The finish is not fully cured/harded just because the oil is dry to the touch. The finish will have a high gloss, but you can use a rubbing compound to lower that if you want.

wcp4570
05-24-2013, 07:19 PM
What's not to love about a nice 3 screw. If you don't want/like the rough finish, just rub with 0000 steel wool and go shoot.

I have used tru-oil on rifle and shot gun stocks. The way I use the oil after removing the old finish and sanding, I use my hand to apply the finish. Dip your finger tip into the oil and rub it onto the wood to spread it out, then using the heel of the hand rub the oil spreading even more. I rub until it appears to be gone, it will still be tacky. Set the stock aside to dry over night. Rub down the stock with 0000 steel wool between every coat. Depending on the wood type the pours will become filled then your finish will start to build up. The more coats you apply the deeper and more beautiful your finish will be. I do between 6 and 10 coats.

wcp

thegatman
05-24-2013, 07:26 PM
I use a finish I got at a gun show. You have to start with bare wood and bring it up in stages. It is similar to Tru oil but blends better. Still have to sand and hand polish.

josper
05-24-2013, 09:59 PM
Tru-oil is ok but has an additive to speed up drying. For a really nice job I use Formby's Tung oil. After doing all the layering, the last coat I lightly rub with the 0000 steel wool just to dull the finish and apply a coat of butchers wax and buff it out. OH and don't forget to use a tack cloth to wipe between coats to pick up all dust particles before applying another coat of Tung oil.

44man
05-25-2013, 10:10 AM
I built many custom stocks. You must apply, let dry and remove to the wood enough coats to fill the grain to a glass smoothness. Tru oil is better then a filler because it lets light deep to show grain.
Now the stuff is a bugger if you build it up a coat at a time because when you rub it out it will cut through layers. It always shows.
For the last coats I thin with paint thinner and spray a thin coat, let it dry to tacky and spray another coat, enough coats, at least 5 to add thickness. I never let it dry between coats, just long enough. No runs allowed. This lets each coat blend to the previous coat.
Set it away for a few weeks until you can not smell the finish. I have also propped the stock in the truck cab with the windows shut to speed up drying. Tru Oil will not bubble or blister.
Now you have ONE thick coat that you can rub out.
Tru Oil is funny, if you let each coat dry hard, the next coat will not melt into the first. I hate the rub through. Even shooting will wear spots to give a rub through look.
I use a little touch up spray gun.

W.R.Buchanan
05-25-2013, 04:47 PM
Here's what it should look like when you're done.

The first pic is after the final coat of Tru-oil, and all the rest are after final rubdown with 0000 steel wool and Minwax or Trewax.

You can see the dull sheen on the wood with little or no open pores in the wood.

There is nothig wrong with what you have done so far. You just quit too soon.

Go back and buff everything with 0000 steel wool until the surface is completely smooth then reapply another coat of truoil. It helps in the final stages of finishing to use a cotton ball and kind of spit shine the oil onto the wood to insure you are getting the pores filled in every direction..

After your last coat the wood should look like it has been sprayed with laquer.(first pic)

Then you buff again with steel wool to break the shine and then apply the Treewax. Let the wax dry for an hour and buff it with a teeshirt.

The wood in those stocks is about as close to fence post grade as you can get and still claim walnut. Yet it looks passable due to the finish. There is probably 8-10 coats of Truoil on them with a steel wool buff in between each coat.

I could have gone further and applied more coats of oil and gotten a deeper finish, but what I have is appropriate for this rifle

That 's all there is to it, and it really ain't that hard to do.

Randy

44man
05-26-2013, 09:21 AM
That is perfect. Just a beautiful job. I love Tru Oil.
I tried about everything and some stuff never seems to dry and I hate to work with gum on wood.
The best thing is the stuff is 100% protection from the elements.

W.R.Buchanan
05-26-2013, 07:56 PM
David LaPell: I hope we didn't scare you away. We were just trying to help and please don't take any of this as an insult.

Randy

wcp4570
05-26-2013, 08:24 PM
David LaPell: I hope we didn't scare you away. We were just trying to help and please don't take any of this as an insult.

Randy

I second what Randy says. The great thing about this site is we can all learn from each other. When you stop learning you are ready to die.

wcp

44man
05-26-2013, 08:26 PM
David LaPell: I hope we didn't scare you away. We were just trying to help and please don't take any of this as an insult.

Randy
Thank you for that. It is true we help as best we can. Never an insult. The OP is on his way and just a little more work from where he is at will give him a big smile.
It is hard for a beginner but we are here for him.
To make the wood as great as Randy does is a small amount of work on little revolver grips.