Mold Handles.........cost of ownership vs quality needed to do the job.

[Smokepole50]

I have recently purchase my third NOE mold and it should be here tomorrow. I was scrounging for some handles and found a forum member that had two sets of Lee handle's for sale so I picked those up. Now today I am looking a NOE's site and see the very nice looking handles they sell. They look and sound a good bit like KAL handles by Red River Rick. I am sure that quality is built into these handles but my base question is how much quality is needed in a mold handle? Another question is, is it practicle to change handles between molds, I am guessing not. I want to lean towards nice strong handles on my 4 and 5 cavity NOE molds because I hate junk but I am feeling a bit cheap after spending $100 on 3 different NOE molds. Will I regret the Lee handle purchase in the long run?

[PS Paul]

I use Lee handles on several different molds. It is very unlikely that most of us have a set of handles for each mold. In fact, I would be VERY surprised if that WERE the case.

I have also ground down a few Lee molds to fit RCBS molds with excellent results.

I would not feel bad at all- and don't- by putting Lee handles on expensive molds. They grace my one and only Accurate mold too.

Just my .02

BTW, every Lee handle needs the wood handle pieces epoxied in place. They come off while using when they get hot. You might do this BEFORE using. took me a few times to figure that out many years back and now I do it immediately.

[Randy C]

I have a draw full of lee handles and all my moulds are custom.

[Boolseye]

great tip on the epoxy– I need to do that with mine. Only issue with the Lees, other than that they're bulletproof.

[theperfessor]

I can't make handles as good and as cheap as I can buy Lee 6 cavity handles. As mentioned, glue the handles on (I use JB Weld but lots of other glues will work) and mill, grind, or drill whatever needs to be done to make it fit your mold.

I have lots of handles but nowhere near one per mold. Doesn't take a lot of work to change handles between molds.

[NoZombies]

The molds that I use the most commonly will have a dedicated set of handles, but molds that aren't used as often will have the handles swapped around. I use lee 6 cavity handles quite often, and have never had a set break. I agree that glueing the wood in place takes away the only real headache I've ever had with them.

[462]

I think that Lee handles are a good product and an excellent value. However, I have one set that required filing to make it fit a couple Lee moulds.

[PS Paul]

I think that Lee handles are a good product and an excellent value. However, I have one set that required filing to make it fit a couple Lee moulds.

Really? Was that a recent purchase? Or some time ago before all the buying frenzy started? I have ground several down with bench grinder. Made a LOT of sparks!! I've never seen one that did not fit a Lee mold out of the box, but I've heard they've cut some corners recently trying to keep up with exploding demand.

I got a new 4-hole turret for my Classic-Cast Turret press recently and it was "rough". A little judicious filing/sanding fixed that, but I chocked it up to the increase in production..... A minor irritation.

[Smokepole50]

Thanks for all the opinions guys. I have to admit, I am a bit surprised at all the positive responses about Lee handles. I thought sure I would get at least one coment about them being junk.

[462]

PS Paul,
It was about two years ago. When they have them is stock, Midway still sells them for $12 or $13.

[wlc]

Thanks for all the opinions guys. I have to admit, I am a bit surprised at all the positive responses about Lee handles. I thought sure I would get at least one coment about them being junk.

OK, I'll be the smarty pants..... The Lee mold handles are junk. Box up what you have and send to me for disposal.:kidding:

Not really. All my mold handles but one set are Lee ( I did buy one set of Miha's mold handles). Other than the afore mentioned need to epoxy the handles they work great. They are definitely inexpensive enough to grind and file on to make them fit other molds. I just recently picked up an RCBS mold for my 416 from a forum member. They came without handles. I found a set (RCBS) locally yesterday NIB at a LGS. $45.00 OUCH..... I'll pass and get a set of Lee handles for $15.00 and grind them to fit.

[Dale53]

I have mold handles from all of the major players. Mihec's are the best I have although H&G Originals are fine and I, too, use many Lee mold handles.

Each and every pair of mould handles benefits from popping the wood off the handles and re-installed (I use Gorilla Glue) and then I drill and pin right through the ferrule wood and metal and grind the pin flush. I have broken (over the past 60 years) probably three handles but NEVER broke one until the handles came loose then the wood would give way. I finally figured out the solution:

Center Punch:
http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj80/Dale53/MiHecsMouldHandlesSelects-38243.jpg (http://s269.photobucket.com/user/Dale53/media/MiHecsMouldHandlesSelects-38243.jpg.html)
Drill and install roll pins (use the same size drill as the roll pins - I use 3/32".
http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj80/Dale53/MiHecsMouldHandlesSelects-3824.jpg (http://s269.photobucket.com/user/Dale53/media/MiHecsMouldHandlesSelects-3824.jpg.html)

Grind pins flush:

http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj80/Dale53/MiHecsMouldHandlesSelects-38242.jpg (http://s269.photobucket.com/user/Dale53/media/MiHecsMouldHandlesSelects-38242.jpg.html)

FWIW
Dale53

[Dale53]

I have mold handles from all of the major players. Mihec's are the best I have although H&G Originals are fine and I, too, use many Lee mold handles.

Each and every pair of mould handles benefits from popping the wood off the handles and re-installed (I use Gorilla Glue) and then I drill and pin right through the ferrule wood and metal and grind the pin flush. I have broken (over the past 60 years) probably three handles but NEVER broke one until the handles came loose then the wood would give way. I finally figured out the solution:

Center Punch:
http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj80/Dale53/MiHecsMouldHandlesSelects-38243.jpg (http://s269.photobucket.com/user/Dale53/media/MiHecsMouldHandlesSelects-38243.jpg.html)

Drill and install roll pins (use the same size drill as the roll pins - I use 3/32".

http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj80/Dale53/MiHecsMouldHandlesSelects-3824.jpg (http://s269.photobucket.com/user/Dale53/media/MiHecsMouldHandlesSelects-3824.jpg.html)

Grind pins flush:

http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj80/Dale53/MiHecsMouldHandlesSelects-38242.jpg (http://s269.photobucket.com/user/Dale53/media/MiHecsMouldHandlesSelects-38242.jpg.html)

I never expect to have a broken handle after this treatment (I do it before even installing the mould blocks).

FWIW
Dale53

[bushboy]

Dale53 - are those roll pins 3/16" or 3/32"? Just asking 'cause they look kinda small compared to the handle diameter. Thanks for the photos.

[happy7]

Ok, so Lee handles do have a couple more drawbacks. The biggest for me is that they don't open as far as most other brands of handles. This can be a problem with longer bullets. Another is that the Lee handles are cast from a brittle metal. I have a couple very heavy iron molds and have broken a set when used with a heavier mold and a sticky bullet. The Lee handles are not always perfectly aligned. But being cast, they will not bend. They will only break if you try to tweak them to get them aligned. However these issues are not serious enough to negate the super value that Lee handles are and I keep buying them and am thankful that they are available.

Yes, the wood comes loose on the Lee handles, but it does on most other mold handles as well, unless they were glued at the factory. Other manufacturers pin them, and this is a good solution but eventually even pinned handles can get loose when the wood inside gets dry and worn so really I end up gluing virtually all my handles, regardless of manufacture, eventually.

Most members here know this, but for those that don't, KAL handles, made in Canada by our own Red River Rick are in my opinion the finest that money can buy. These too will need gluing, but they are outstanding.

[Green Frog]

When I got my first set of custom moulds from NOE, I was visiting Dale53 and while there was the recipient of a Dale53 handle mod. I am completely confident those handles will outlast me, and plan to do the same thing to the pair I just bought for a group buy Lee 6 banger I just acquired. Yes, I believe it's a 3/32" roll pin, though I haven't tried to mike it... he sure finished it down flush when he ground it! ;-)

Froggie

[theperfessor]

With all due respect to Dale53 and others that advocate pinning the handles on, I would just like to say that I don't pin because I just don't like drilling a hole in the metal arm. Maybe I'm too conservative but I think it makes a weak spot, get it out of line and drill on the outside edge of the metal arm and you've got a potential crack-starter.

I've never had a handle come off when I use JB Weld alone.

But some folks wear a belt AND suspenders, so if what you are doing works then go for it.

[btroj]

I don't glue until they deem it necessary. Maybe I just enjoy whacking the end of the handle to drive it back on?

I just go some KAL handles. They are much nicer than the Lee. Required? No. But like having a Lee vs a custom mould, the difference is there.

I also like the fact KAL makes handles for a Lyman 4 cav that lets you get rid of the nutcracker style handles Lyman makes. I may actually use that mould now.

[Dale53]

bushboy;
Good catch! Seconds after I posted this, I caught the error and thought I had corrected it (hence, the double post). At any rate, it has now been corrected. The correct diameter is 3/32" for the roll pin AND the drill you use.

In the past, I have had glued handles AGAIN come loose. That's when I started pinning them. Even after better glues were available I guess I just did the "belt and suspenders" method[smilie=1:. GLL may well be right but, hey! I have 100 roll pins to use up:lol:.

Dale53

[Smokepole50]

Well, I may wish I had waited and bought all Lee handles but I did not feel like waiting so I purchased a couple more expensive handles to go with my new molds.

In regards to gluing the handles on I would think that JB Weld would be the best material to use. Gorilla Glue is some fine glue but I doubt it is made to take the heat and sooner or later I feel it will turn loose.

[PS Paul]

PS Paul,
It was about two years ago. When they have them is stock, Midway still sells them for $12 or $13.

Oh. wow. well, like my turret, I suppose "Shirley" did not inspect those closely enough? (ha-ha!!) Surprising, honestly since I own several and have used many of the Lee handles.

[Copper75]

Dale53
Lemme guess...you needed two roll pins and could only find them at Fastenal ? Had to buy 100 cause that's the only way they sell small stuff ?

Ask me about my 99 spare 5mm screws :)

[happy7]

I have had good success with gorilla glue. I only use it more than JB weld because it is easier since it doesn't need to be mixed, and it is cheaper. However, with really heavy molds I have actually had both Gorilla and JB come loose. And that surprised me with the JB Weld. I had expected it to last forever. Maybe I didn't prep well enough or something.

[Horace]

RTV Silicone also works well for re-installing loose handles.

Horace

[Oreo]

And RTV is high temperature tollerant and should remain flexible enough to withstand the heat-cycling expansion / contraction of the steel. I would expect epoxy and gorilla glue to fail over time due to the heat.

[kdiver58]

I just bought a 2 cavity 41 caliber lee mold and handle set that was used. The mold halves were loose and wobbly on the handles. Alignment was also poor. Being blind pined onto the handles I had to drill a small hole to remove the pins. I didn't like the setup so I moved the mold .375 closer to the end of the mold handles and drilled and tapped them for 6-32 screws. I ran the screws through the old dowel pin holes, clamped them together and tightened the screws. Alignment is spot on ..

[happy7]

I had a different experience with the RTV. I used it on approximately 20 sets of handles, and it eventually loosened on at least half of them. I then switched to the gorilla glue. I was initially skeptical that it would be heat tolerant, but it has proved to hold up quite well. I have had one or two come loose eventually with really heavy molds, but I haven't really found anything better. It has held up for me much better than the RTV.


And RTV is high temperature tollerant and should remain flexible enough to withstand the heat-cycling expansion / contraction of the steel. I would expect epoxy and gorilla glue to fail over time due to the heat.

[Changeling]

It's the totally "Green" wood that is the culprit! Nothing you do will fix the problem till the wood is thoroughly "DRY"! Think about it.

[BattleRife]

I have three sets of Lee mould handles. One is unmodified, one is modified to fit RCBS moulds, the last to fit Lyman moulds. I like them just fine.

I have one set of handles from MP Moulds, I consider them inferior to the Lee. They are cut from thicker stock, but are narrower through the tang when measured in the plane of bending, so they flex considerably more when one is clamping the mould shut. One of these days I will get a set of KAL mould handles just to complete the set.

[gunoil]

iam done with lee handles from now on. I deserve it an earned it, and iam movin on, hehehehe! I just bought a lyman mold and handles, I'd like to get a mold from al @ NOE . I have one lee mold left. Gonna call Al.

[Cadillo]

I don't glue until they deem it necessary. Maybe I just enjoy whacking the end of the handle to drive it back on?

I just go some KAL handles. They are much nicer than the Lee. Required? No. But like having a Lee vs a custom mould, the difference is there.

I also like the fact KAL makes handles for a Lyman 4 cav that lets you get rid of the nutcracker style handles Lyman makes. I may actually use that mould now.

I have handles by Lyman, Saeco, Mihec, and KAL. The KAL handles are superior to even the Mihecs. The mould halves just self align themselves perfectly with them, and they operate just as smoothly if not more so as any other. I will not buy any other brand as long as KAL maintains production.

[BRobertson]

I have tried one set of LEE handles, the cast metal broke the first time I cast with them!!

I will stick with better handles in the future!! You get what you paid for, I guess

Bob

[Iron Mike Golf]

I do wish Lee used a better wood on the handles. Maple, maybe. Gorilla Glue has been holding up good for me. I like that is expands and fills any voids inside.

[Dystaxia]

I have mold handles from all of the major players. Mihec's are the best I have although H&G Originals are fine and I, too, use many Lee mold handles.

Each and every pair of mould handles benefits from popping the wood off the handles and re-installed (I use Gorilla Glue) and then I drill and pin right through the ferrule wood and metal and grind the pin flush. I have broken (over the past 60 years) probably three handles but NEVER broke one until the handles came loose then the wood would give way. I finally figured out the solution:

Center Punch:
http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj80/Dale53/MiHecsMouldHandlesSelects-38243.jpg (http://s269.photobucket.com/user/Dale53/media/MiHecsMouldHandlesSelects-38243.jpg.html)

Drill and install roll pins (use the same size drill as the roll pins - I use 3/32".

http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj80/Dale53/MiHecsMouldHandlesSelects-3824.jpg (http://s269.photobucket.com/user/Dale53/media/MiHecsMouldHandlesSelects-3824.jpg.html)

Grind pins flush:

http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj80/Dale53/MiHecsMouldHandlesSelects-38242.jpg (http://s269.photobucket.com/user/Dale53/media/MiHecsMouldHandlesSelects-38242.jpg.html)

I never expect to have a broken handle after this treatment (I do it before even installing the mould blocks).

FWIW
Dale53

Are you drilling all the way thru out the other side, or just into the metal handle?

[Hardcast416taylor]

I just got a package from Graf & Sons yesterday. In the box were 2 sets of LEE mold handles for $11.95 a set. I bought some other stuff that put my order up in the $80 range and the shipping/handling cost was only $8.95. FedEx delivered it in 3 days.Robert

[Beagle333]

Handles..... I have 2 sets of Lee 6-cav and 2 sets of Lyman, .... and many molds. I never even intended to have more than 2 sets of handles, but sometimes the mold I want is sold with handles.

[ubetcha]

Speaking of molds and handles, beside getting handles from Swede, will Lee, Lyman or RCBS handles fit a NOE 2-cav mold?

[Beagle333]

I know that Lee 6-cav will..... I got a set heating up on a NOE right now. :grin: