removing very light rust from bore

[Whiterabbit]

steel wool won't do it. how to remove very light rust from a barrel? tight patches with solvent come out clean.

[59sharps]

Scotch brite pad on a jag

[Whiterabbit]

if 0000 steel wool doesnt do it, why would a scotchbrite pad?

[fouronesix]

Very light rust in bore??? Is it visible? Is it the pits that can't be removed? Over time, most older bores take on a "browned" finish- is it that? Be aware there are two types of Scotch Brite material- one very abrasive and will cut most things, the other pretty safe and mild.

If sure enough rust, you might have to lap it out. But first try the least abrasive/least destructive things first. JBs or Remington Bore Cleaner on a tight jagged patch and used with a good rod with bearing handle. Lots of elbow grease. Repeat 2-3 times. If that doesn't do it then fire lap by lubing the patch of a roundball with JBs or Remington Bore cleaner. Shoot, clean, shoot clean... maybe 3 shots or so. Use light to medium charge. If that doesn't do it then maybe 320-600 grit lapping compound on the jagged patch as above. If that doesn't do it then fire lap using the PRB combination and the lapping compound. IF that doesn't do it- then who knows. You can get as aggressive as you dare with the bore, but at the same time the more aggressive- the more wear.

[Fly]

Plug the nipple with a tooth pick.Pour white vinegar the barrel & let it sit about one hour.
Pour out, & go after it again.If it is light rust, you should be fine.

[Whiterabbit]

the age of the rust can be measured in days. so I hope its not pitting. I have JB's bore paste, ill try that first, followed by vinegar.

its barely visible, mostly near the muzzle. spotting. gets sparse a few inches into the barrel, and clean within a few inches after that.

[waksupi]

the age of the rust can be measured in days. so I hope its not pitting. I have JB's bore paste, ill try that first, followed by vinegar.

its barely visible, mostly near the muzzle. spotting. gets sparse a few inches into the barrel, and clean within a few inches after that.

That sounds like some idiot stuck their finger in your barrel. I kick people in the shins that I catch doing that to my muzzle loaders. Fingers carry acids, acids bring rust.

[Whiterabbit]

shins wont be safe around this muzzleloader anymore. As long as I can get it out, no harm noo foul. the JB bore paste seems to have halped a little, but not eliminated. Ill try the vinegar.

[fouronesix]

Well, there are a few acids that will surely remove rust BUT! They also won't stop with the rust unless great care is taken. That surface rust will have some etched metal underneath. That etched surface is vulnerable to the acid continuing its action on the metal. Judicious use of vinegar may do it- the acetic acid may be slower to work on the metal- thus safer. Another one that will almost instantly remove rust is Naval Jelly- phosphoric acid. It will remove the rust right now but will also remove bluing/finish right now. After using any chemical like an acid, it'd be a good idea to neutralize it with a mild base solution like dilute baking soda to rinse it out. Followed by water, followed by liberal oil. Then checked a day later.

[Whiterabbit]

checked this morning, still looks a little improved. Might have to re-treat after the next couple range sessions. Or go at it with naval jelly, but that makes me REAL nervous. I know what naval jelly does to steel 'right now'. I dont think i'd be comfy using a chemical that aggressive.

[Char-Gar]

If fine 000 or 0000 steel wool, soaked with Kroil or some other good penetrating oil, wrapped around a bore brush, will not remove the "light rust", then you don't have light rust. You have heavy, very heavy rust, and most likely pitting underneath it.

[Whiterabbit]

huh. maybe the spotting is not rust then? I DO oil well. I thought I just was too light on the oil for ONE range trip, that one is all it took. I do also note that the breech is absolutely rust free, and that thing is much harder to clean than near the muzzle. It's even somewhat easier to see the breech since LED lighting is pretty directional and lights up the chamber area like a Christmas tree.

ok, so I have some light spotting in my barrel, muzzle only, breech is squeaky clean. patches come out clean. did nto respond to steel wool, but responded a wee bit to JB bore paste and really well to vinegar. Much improved, not 100% gone.

If not rust, then what is that?


Very light rust in bore??? Is it visible? Is it the pits that can't be removed? Over time, most older bores take on a "browned" finish- is it that?

could it be the start of the development of this? how to tell the difference? In my experience, patina never develops uniformly but through patches that grow. But I'm no gonna let it grow unless I know for sure its just patina! any way to confirm for sure?

[59sharps]

not your house hold scotch brite. these
http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/3MIndustrial/Abrasives/Product/Catalog/~/Scotch-Brite-TM-General-Purpose-Hand-Pad-7447-6-in-x-9-in-20-pads-per-box-3-boxes-per-case?N=5095263+4294944920&rt=d

[Char-Gar]

Was this stuff in the barrel when you got the rifle?

There can be crud in the rifle that is not rust. Could be metal fouling, lead or even heat scale where the front sight was soldered on. I have had brand new Rugers come to me with heat scale in the barrels. I sent them back and got new barrels from Ruger.

[Whiterabbit]

unfired new.

[fouronesix]

Yes, that darkened splotchy appearance could be a form of natural patina that I've always thought of as similar to "browning". If that's the case, it is microscopically thin and not unlike bluing. Many very old guns I have (50-150 year old variety) show that. If it is that, I'd be inclined to just leave it alone- as the cure (to bare metal by getting too aggressive with it) may be destructive and would simply cause premature wear to the bore surface.

[Whiterabbit]

That would be heartening. Any way to confirm it? I'll bet I can run my fingernail right over it and not feel it.

[Char-Gar]

Unfired new what? Does it have a soldered on front sight ramp?

[Whiterabbit]

barrel never been used. front sight dovetail.

[Char-Gar]

Is the make and model of this rifle a deep dark secret? Is the dovetail cut into the barrel metal itself or in a ramp. 99% of front sights are in a dovetail so that doesn't tell me much. If you want help, then give enough information. If you don't want help, then I will leave you alone, but am tired of trying to make this 20 questions.

Bottom line is, a new rifle or new barrel on an old rifle with rust or something mistaken for rust near the muzzle is something the maker needs to deal with.

[bigted]

another option is that the preservative used from a dealer/manufacturer is pretty hard sometimes to remove so if this is what your fighting and it is "ironed" into the steel...you may have an up hill battle.

I removed this with shooters choice and scrubbed with a brass bristle then allowed to set for 3 hours then scrubbed again in the same manner without wiping any out with a swab...do this for about 5 or 6 applications and THEN take swabs saturated in shooters choice and swab till they are clean...then use dry patch's till clean and inspect to see if progress is happening.

the temptation to wipe the bore before 5 or 6 applications with the bristle brush is large but if you leave the shooters in the barrel to 'work' then the action may just do what your looking for.

after doing this tho the need is great to re-season the barrel so the bp fouling will not stick so hard the first shooting outing.

[Char-Gar]

Acetone on a bore brush will cut any dryed or hard grease out of a barrel or anywhere else, very darn quick.

[double8]

Be very, very careful if you use steel wool in the bore....fine steel wool will come apart and leave particles in the bore. Using water to try to clean the bore afterward will rust those particles quickly. I would not suggest ever using steel wool in a barrel..
Just sayin'...