Mold and casting confusion

[WCF3030]

I've not posted here for awhile.

I have a question about my new Lyman mold 311041 and mold and WW temp.

I've not done a whole lot of casting with most being in the last 3 weeks.
Up until now my only experince was with the Lee 150gr 30 cal alum single cavity mold and WW, Lyman gc, and lee lube.
First time out I got it too work, resized and shot some great groups out of my Marlin and H&R 30-30.
It has worked great since.
I melt some WW in my tiny Lee furnace with the gage set on high, clean off the scum on top and start casting.

I tryed the same thing with the Lyman and had very different results, being steel instead of alum it took longer to heat, which I expected. But then it seems like the mold got to hot, took longer for the lead to cool, harder to resize. I had water queched both the Lee and Lyman bullets, but the Lyman was much harder.
I did the same things with both molds. I resized the same, used the Lee Lube before and after resizing, same gc, almost the same load.
The accuracy was terrible. As in a 3x4 inch group at 50 yards with a scope terrible
Now before I go any further, I want to say that I shoot alot, and have shot alot of cast this year some of my own, but mostly what was given to me or Oregon Trail that I have bought. No jacketed thru this Marlin in months and I started with my clean bore as always.
Here is a pic of what the rifle can do all day long with any every kind of cast I've shot thru it.
5 rounds, 50yds, open sights, with some bullets w30wcf had sent me.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v233/Trails650/100_0148.jpg

So I'm pretty convinced that I am doing something wrong with this new mold.
I'm sure there will be more questions on my procedure but some advice would be nice.

Thanks.

[44man]

That is some great shooting.
You should pre-heat the Lyman more. Most of us use a hot plate with a steel plate on top to put the mold on or little mold furnace on a hot plate. Once it is hot you should not need more then about 750 degrees to cast. Turn the pot down and get a thermometer. Casting way too hot can make your boolits smaller and lighter too.
Next, don't put WW's in the casting pot, smelt in a cast iron or steel pot and make clean ingots to put in your casting pot.
Then there is the question of whether your gun likes the Lyman boolit. It just might hate it.

[Bass Ackward]

Here is a pic of what the rifle can do all day long with any every kind of cast I've shot thru it.

I'm sure there will be more questions on my procedure but some advice would be nice.

Thanks.


Great early success. Congratulations!

Some bullets (designs) need the support of lube in the grooves to perform well under WIDE applications. That's the biggest disadvantage to LLA. Narrow application usage UNLESS a bullet is designed for it. (Search for Ranch Dog molds)When you are .... in the zone, it works. Outta the zone and you encounter .... difficulty and VERY poor results.

I think you just found an example of pull out your hair unless you go to slower powder and cut pressure.

[WCF3030]

Some good advice guys.
I'll get a temp gage and try the pre-heat.
I hope the rifle will like the mold.
I can't spare anymore hair.:-D

[MT Chambers]

With that same Lyman bullet, my groups shrunk considerably when i used Linotype and sized to .310", I used the same sizer before with pure lead/tin mix, so it must be the Lino that did the trick. I find the secret to using steel(iron) molds is to get to know your diff. molds and then use 2 or 3 at a time, which gives them time to cool down somewhat. Some molds won't work with this sequence type use, as they require more heat and will start to show signs of a cool mold(wrinkled bullets), in this case you may have to go from 3 at a time to 2. You just have to "become one with your molds". Does any of this make sense??

[Bret4207]

It's time to experiment. Do yourself a favor and when you figure each mold/alloy combo out- write it down! Saves a lot of time farting around trying to remember what like what.

[versifier]

You didn't mention what powders you were using. As mentioned, sometimes you need to go to a slower powder when you switch to a heavier boolit, and you are increasing the weight by close to 40gr with ww alloy.
You might not be able to play with your OAL too much without feeding problems, but seat them as long as possible. I am assuming you slugged your bore and are using the appropriate size from looking at how well the Lee boolits shot. I would not go to a harder alloy for a hunting boolit. Often, the harder lino boolits do shoot better, but they don't expand, and with .30cal, I feel you have to get at least a little.
FWIW, the Lee 150's shoot better in my T/C carbine, especially out to 100yds. And they are a lot easier on my shoulder from the bench, too. Lee 170's also perform very well. If after more experiments, you still can't get groups you are happy with, PM me. I have other .30 cal rifles that love it, and I would be happy to buy an extra mould.

[WCF3030]

More things to consider.
The powder is Varget, which has worked well for me useing cast with the 150gr, 180gr, 189gr, 200, and 220gr.

[44man]

I think Varget is the greatest powder ever made. It works in cases even Hodgden hasn't tried it in.
Some said to check the diameter and I agree. Lyman is known to make a lot of undersize molds when they re-sharpen cherries.
If the boolit has good lube grooves, try a good lube instead of the Lee stuff. Lar makes great lube and he is cheap along with being a great guy to talk to.