Stevens Model 12 Marksman .22

[bonney38]

Hi,
I am new to the forum and would like to say hello to all....
My reason for this post is that i am in a quandary concerning a model 12 I am restoring for my granddaughter. My question is that the rifle has a screw, washer and bolt longer than the frame to hold the barrel to the receiver. I think it is a hinge screw or action screw. Would anyone know someone who can make one or have one? Numrich (http://www.gunpartscorp.com/Manufacturers/SavageStevensSpringfieldFox-33479/Rifles-40502/12Marksman-39678.htm?results=100), Brownells,Midway, Wiseners (http://www.wisnersinc.com/rifles/stevens/singleshotlever.html) and several other sites do not have any parts except a firing pin. PonderosaParts.com (http://www.ponderosaparts.com/templates/template2.asp?Sel=B&Pkg=6548A) seems to have some parts but do to a death they are closed and looking for a buyer.

Thank You in advance for any help

Jim Bonney

[uscra112]

The thread is 5/16x28, for what that's worth. If I remember rightly, that's a thread that's used in automotive applications, so it might be possible to find a bolt or stud at an auto parts store to rework.

Rethink: Did you mean the takedown screw that retains the barrel in the barrel sleeve, or the hinge screw on which the sleeve pivots in the frame?

[bonney38]

Hi, it is the larger one furthest toward the front of the rifle. The barrel pivots on it I believe. I was able to make some measurements based on the receiver hole. The other side of the hole had the threads stripped out from the smaller bolt that was used to hold it together. The hole measures .200 as is.
Thanks Again..
70770

[uscra112]

You might be able to use something from here:

http://www.mscdirect.com/browse/?navid=12102193+4288174077+4288227358+4288246887&searchterm=1%2F4

Problem will be that the screw thread on standard stripper screws is 10-32, and the thread in the Model 12 frame is bigger - 12-32. You'd have to weld up the hole in the frame, then redrill it and tap to 10-32. The shoulder length in the gun I pulled out to measure is .600 long, so the standard stripper screw will be overlength by .025".

If staying close to original appearance is not an issue, ream the thread out to .2490, and use a 3/4" stripper screw, with a cap nut to hold it. Both ends of that screw should be snug in the frame, because the firing thrust is transmitted to the frame through it.

For a Model 44 resurrection I once did, I reamed the frame right through to take a pressed-in dowel pin for the breech-block pivot, rather than try to restore the original threaded screw arrangement. You might try that. Ream everything to .2490 or .2495. If that will clean up both sides, use a standard dowel pin. My pin is ground to be flush on both sides, and is retained with Red Loctite in final assembly.

[John Taylor]

Tap the receiver with a #12 or #14 tap and make a screw to fit. Any good machinist can handle this. You could even go with a 1/4"- 28 and use a standard bolt but it may not look good.

[Bent Ramrod]

The threaded end on the pivot pin of my Marksman is 0.218" diameter x 36 tpi.

[uscra112]

The threaded end on the pivot pin of my Marksman is 0.218" diameter x 36 tpi.

Could be, I just eyeballed the thread pitch......

[bonney38]

First i would like to say Thank you Everyone for your insight, knowledge and help. I really really want to get a lathe, my friend has one and is willing to show me. After much thought and review I think we should use a .245 blank screw (tool steel), and lathe down the head dia., depth, cut to length, thread the end to 1/4-28 and run a 1/4-28 tap into the receiver. one issue is to cut the extra length to allow for the starting threads. I think perhaps maybe my friend has never cut threads with his lathe as he told me he has never had to change the gear setup which i believe is a requirement to setup the tpi on his lathe, so we may end up having to run a die on the end of our newly made screw. Either way it should turn out to be about as close to original as can be. This is a great project and I hope my granddaughter will be half as excited as I am about it.:)

Jim

[JackQuest]

71228I am currently upgrading a Stevens Favorite 1915 in .32 rimfire to .17 HMR. Through research and testing I have determined that the screws are as follows. Please realize that these are dimensions manufactured in the first half of the 20th Century and are generally undersized for no reason I can determine:

Breech pivot (largest screw) - 12-36
Lever pivot (second largest) - 10-24
Hammer & Trigger - 8-32

None of these are "standard" machine screws these days. Brownells has blank screws available, taps and dies are available from the worldwide garage sale eBay.

Brownells has refills for the blank screw kit so you only buy what you need. Numbers are:

#8 blank screw refill - 080-011-008WB
#10 blank screw refill - 080-011-010WB
#12 blank screw refill - 080-011-012WB

Using modern steel and a case hardening kit from Brownells I intend to drill, tap or thread each hole to a new screw, then harden the screws for wear.

Just drilled and sleeved the barrel yesterday, will be trimming barrel and prepping to chamber. Still waiting for one tap to arrive before I get deep in replacing screws.

[uscra112]

Screw threads weren't standardized until WW1, and then most manufacturers were driven to it kicking and screaming by the War Department. Making peculiar threads of course drove users back to the OEM for parts. Ask me about restoring old machine tools! Worse than British motorcycles! Brown and Sharpe was a particular offender.

[bonney38]

Thanks for all the advice. I went out and bought a mini lathe and after a few attempts trying to turn a pre-fab blank .250 screw which i believe I'd need a collet to hold it so it can be threaded, i got some .250 rod and turned it from scratch. It seems the best way to learn something by having a real project to complete. after threading it a dremel cut the slot and used brownells case hardener with a low torch with excellent results. New firing pin installed after some fitting now i have to find some schematics to put it all back together as i forgot to take a picture or draw it when i took it all apart (live and learn). Stuck on the cocking plunger it rides somewhere on the lever and thru the receiver to the hammer, there is a spring also which i cannot for the life of me figure out what that does except to provide a cushion for the plunger thru the receiver. Numrich has a parts list and i cannot find a schematic in any of my books or anything like it. Anyone have a schematic or photo of the plunger setup???? Thanks, Jim

[uscra112]

Here ya go:

[Iowa Fox]

Thanks for that pic uscra. I have one of these rifles and am missing item 19&21 the rifle is pretty good overall but the bore is rough and the take down screw is frozen in the receiver. Good luck on your project bonney, I hope you keep us posted on your progress on this little rifle. I really enjoy bringing some of these old guns back to life, its gotten hard to find old junkers to tinker with around here.

[uscra112]

Thanks for that pic uscra. I have one of these rifles and am missing item 19&21 the rifle is pretty good overall but the bore is rough and the take down screw is frozen in the receiver. Good luck on your project bonney, I hope you keep us posted on your progress on this little rifle. I really enjoy bringing some of these old guns back to life, its gotten hard to find old junkers to tinker with around here.

Start soaking that frozen screw in a 50-50 mix of acetone and ATF, (transmission fluid). Best penetrant known to man.

I have made part #19 (the cocking pushrod) out of a 1/4" Grade 8 bolt. Takes a lathe to turn the diameter down, then there's a passel of filing to get that funny triangular bit at the lower end. The spring came from the hardware store.

[bonney38]

Thank You for the picture put it in my virtual filing cabinet. i'm told that they had no trouble changing the parts list on these during manufacturing and most times they weren't designated as a new revision or documented. my cocking plunger (19) has a small bend about 30 deg. and approx. .250 up from the triangle thing. no matter which way I put it in either the hammer will not close or the barrel will not tip. I have attached a couple photos of the cocker (hard to show the angle), and also included one of the chinese 7x12 HF lathes, after using a 20% off ticket and them nocking off $100.00 with eight dollar shipping plus tax, final cost $529.00 for a $700.00 mini lathe. Currently sitting on my kitchen table been learning alot about machining but a long way to go. The boss is returning later today after two weeks visiting mom and i need to cleanup b4 she gets picked up at the airport. Bachelor time is over:)

Some of the best learning & memorable times have come from fixing up the older stuff. (much more human craftsmanship then today's automated systems)
My friend who pasted recently gave me a coffee can of parts with a colt challenger in it, after putting in some time, replacement parts, fitting, and finishing it turned out pretty good looking and it shoots to boot. That is one of my best.
another friend was given some items (including this Stevens) that was put away in storage in 1960. if i could find ammo for the old ( late 1800's) pocket pistols could have some nice little shooters. There's a couple more projects put away waiting for me. Most come from hunting buddies and friends.

(uscra) Again thanks for all your time and effort. Good luck Iowa Fox on your project, some very knowledgeable and helpful people around here as you probably know.


74247 74248 74249

[uscra112]

Can wonder how it GOT bent, but it ain't supposed to be. But at least you have a pattern to work from.

[BCRider]

Bonney, here's a picture of a die holder you can make up as a simple lathe tooling project. It makes getting a decently centered thread easy in the lathe. It's not good enough for truly critical work but for day in day out it's MUCH better than starting and guiding the dies by hand. And for your new pivot bolt project it's more than accurate enough.

By the way, to hold your screw in the lathe for threading you don't need a collet. Although it is one option for sure. Rather what you NEED is to learn to quickly center up work pieces in a four jaw independent chuck. With a little practice and another self make project like the tool post dial guage shown in the third picture below you can center a piece in your four jaw to within less than .001 run out in under three minutes from putting the piece in the chuck to beginning the next operation. Of course you'll curse me as an buffoon for saying under three minutes when you seem to be struggling to do it under 30 the first time or two. But pretty soon it becomes easy to do... I'm not lieing... :D

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y252/BCRider/Metalworking/dieholder2.jpg (http://s7.photobucket.com/user/BCRider/media/Metalworking/dieholder2.jpg.html)

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y252/BCRider/Metalworking/dieholder1.jpg (http://s7.photobucket.com/user/BCRider/media/Metalworking/dieholder1.jpg.html)

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y252/BCRider/Metalworking/dial1.jpg (http://s7.photobucket.com/user/BCRider/media/Metalworking/dial1.jpg.html)

[BCRider]

Oh, and by the way. You may not know it yet but buying a lathe is more or less like tieing a brick to your ankles and jumping in the deep end of the pool.... :D

You have NOOOOOOO idea what you've stepped in....Anyone around here with machine tools will tell you the same thing. It's a GOOD desease, but it's gonna cost ya! ! ! ! :D

Check Amazon and buy a book by Sparey called "The Amatuer's Lathe". And there's another which don't remember the title for written by Tubal Cain. It's like a whole night school course stuck between covers. Old as heck but the lessons have not changed one little bit.

[Pavogrande]

I suggest "How to run a lathe" by South Bend -- I am sure there must be reprints available --

[twodogz]

uscra 112, what book did you find that image in? I need to get a copy of it and the title would help me find it. Thanks.

[uscra112]

uscra 112, what book did you find that image in? I need to get a copy of it and the title would help me find it. Thanks.

Frank de Haas, "Single Shot Rifles and Actions".

[Tatume]

I suggest "How to run a lathe" by South Bend -- I am sure there must be reprints available --

It is available for free here:

http://www.scribd.com/doc/62662262/South-Bend-How-to-Run-a-Metal-Lathe