Resizing Cases, need lube advice

[badboyparamedic]

Bought a bunch of Mil-Surp 308 cases, been using Hornady One Shot to lube them before sizing. Getting a lot of stuck cases in the die, anyone got a suggestion on a different lube? Remember reading something somewhere about STP?

[country gent]

For mil surpluss brass (308 and 223) I use lee imperial sizing die wax. I put a couple thousand in an old bath towel and a couple fingers of lube spread in them then in each hand gather each end of the towel and aggitate cases by raising and lowering your hands. You need to be carefull until the towel is impregnated but once the towel is impregnated a couple thousand cases can be done in minutes easily and evenly. A very light coating is all you need.

[dmclark523]

I currently am having luck with good old RCBS case lube and pad. The kit I bought recently comes with neck brushes for spreading some lube on the inside to help in that regard. I've been doing .223 and 7.62x39 cases with it, haven't had a stuck case or neck at all in about 1000+.

[454PB]

I used to use Imperial Sizing Die Wax, very good stuff. I've found that boot waterproofing (mink oil) works just as well and can be purchased locally. Since I switched to the boot waterproofing, I've NEVER had a stuck case or lube dent. I even use it for swaging jacketed bullets.

[Bullshop]

For serious reforming and heavy duty sizing I suggest our Bullsize case sizing lube

[Mk42gunner]

Imperial Sizing Die Wax is the best I have used, to date. I apply it with my fingers.

STP works as well or bettter than anything else I have used. I do not like using case lube pads, they always seem to get dirty and I think will collect dust and grit.

When I first found the Midway version of spray lubes, I thought it was great; until the second can of it started sticking cases. So I tried the Hornady one shot; same story, first can was great, second can started sticking cases. Then I went to spray oils, which worked, as long as you remember to tumble the brass afterwards. I was resizing a lot of milsurp 5.56 and 7.62 at the time.

Robert

[220swiftfn]

Or if you want cheap, try a tub of "Bag Balm", just a touch on your thumb and finger will lube a lot of cases.......


Dan

[Vorga]

I was using Hornady One Shot myself and noticed that the Mil-Surp 308 cases do stick with it even the 223 cases are sticking. Imperial Sizing Die Wax is a much better choice. I switched to lanolin & iso heat homemade case lube last night and noticed it has a lot less resistance than the Hornady One Shot . I doubt I will be finishing off the One Shot.

[orisolo]

I do full length resize to 308 223 and convertion to 300.
I use lanolin oil and 91% alcohol i mix it in a ratio of 2 alcohol 1 lanolin.
Works great for me. I picked on the recepie in one of the forums.
Cost:
Lanolin oil (Pure) $9.99 (8oz) (wholefoods market)
Alcohol 91% (16oz) $1.99 (Walgreen)
So that is $12 for 24 OZ which last a very long time.

Empty spay bottle if you don't have one is 0.89 at home depot

I spray the cases in a bin, shake and mix the cases, spray again and that's it. wait 2-3 minutes for the alcohol to go away.

On another subject. I get 308 that will not go into the die. If i force them (i did twice) they will not come out of the die. According to Dillon, it is due to a loose barrel of M-60 the case just expended so much it is not usable any more.

[LaPoint]

I use a half & half mixture of anhydrous lanolin & petroleum jelly. I melted a half cup of each in a pan heated in a water bath. I got the anhydrous lanolin from my local pharmacist. The term anhydrous means that there is no water in the lanolin. I had to buy a 2 lb jar of the anhydrous lanolin the last time I bought any, which was at least 15 yrs ago.

[badboyparamedic]

Thanks for all the replies, I have some mink oil, will give that a try. gonna try to find some Imperial Sizing Die Wax also.

[drsfmd]

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/758495/hornady-unique-case-lube-4-oz-tub

I'm fond of Hornaday's Unique Case Lube. That $5 tub will last you a LONG time-- I've done probably 5,000 cases with it and used less than 1/4 of the container. I use my fingers to spread it.

[Cane_man]

I've found that boot waterproofing (mink oil) works just as well and can be purchased locally. Since I switched to the boot waterproofing, I've NEVER had a stuck case or lube dent. I even use it for swaging jacketed bullets.

never thought of that, much cheaper and easier to get... +1

[roberto mervicini]

Started with RCBS lube and a pad, work fine, when I run out of lube I try STP, work as good, one can STP last forever, also try a can of Red Rooster, excellent to. I polish all brass prior resizing and again with clean media after the operation to degrease.
Going at it since over 30 yrs. and yes I got few case stuck.... my fault, forgot to lube!!!

[L1A1Rocker]

Started with RCBS lube and a pad, work fine, when I run out of lube I try STP, work as good, one can STP last forever, also try a can of Red Rooster, excellent to. I polish all brass prior resizing and again with clean media after the operation to degrease.
Going at it since over 30 yrs. and yes I got few case stuck.... my fault, forgot to lube!!!

STP? Is that the engine honey that you add to the oil of a car?

[L1A1Rocker]

I used to use Imperial Sizing Die Wax, very good stuff. I've found that boot waterproofing (mink oil) works just as well and can be purchased locally. Since I switched to the boot waterproofing, I've NEVER had a stuck case or lube dent. I even use it for swaging jacketed bullets.

I've been using the RCBS pad for decades. This sounds a bit easier. How do you apply the oil? Do you put any inside the case neck?

[btroj]

STP? Is that the engine honey that you add to the oil of a car?

That is the stuff. Works quite well.

[johnh57]

I've always used RCBS lube and a lube pad. Never been a problem - except getting all the cases clean after you're done loading. I bought a tin of imperial sizing wax as I thought that would make cleaning up after loading easier. Only cases I've ever got stuck were using imperial (full length resizing .300 win mag).

I ordered some of the Bullsize wax - but haven't tried it yet. Made by the same people that make the Bull Plate mold lube.

[canyon-ghost]

Having tried the commercial lubes, I contacted Ed Harris to ask about a 'depression era' solution. His answer was "Alberto VO-5 hairdressing gel". It comes in a tube, is cheaper than the commercial stuff, and contains enough lanolin that a little dab will lube 100 cases.

Nowdays, this is all I use. 70932

[otter5555]

Hornaday's Unique Case Lube, just finished 5000 223 cases. zero sticks.

[John Boy]

anyone got a suggestion on a different lube?
Bag Balm at your corner drug store

[FishingFool]

Dillon case lube. Which is just lanolin and alcohol.

[fish0123]

The lee case lube works fine for me.

[flipajig]

Rive been useing RCBS lube and there lube pad works for me.
I just got done prosessing 1K of 223 it took quite some time to compleaty prosess it but I hand not one stuck case. When they started getting a little hard I added more lube to the pad I like everyone I have stuck a case before thank goodness for RCBS stuck case remover.
Flip

[lksmith]

The lee case lube works fine for me.

I never had good luck with that stuff.
I bought a "jar' of Sharp Shoot R Royal Case Sizing Wax in 2008 and after several thousand rounds loaded I still haven't used a quarter of it
you get a 4oz jar of it for the same price as the Imperial 2oz tin.
I have used it for sizing from 380acp through 50BMG and have yet to have a stuck case. even using it to stretch 223 case necks to 30cal to make 300 AAC brass

[badboyparamedic]

Ended up getting a can of Mink Oil, slight bit on fingers then quick twist of the case between my fingers. Havent had a stuck case since, and seems to take a whole lot less muscle on press to resize them.

[KYShooter73]

Dissolve 10% Lee Resizing Lube into 90% denatured or 94% isopropyl alcohol in a pump spray bottle. Spray your cases right in the bin, tumble them around a bit, wait 5 minutes for the alcohol to evaporate and you shouldn't see another stuck case.

[TXSlade]

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/758495/hornady-unique-case-lube-4-oz-tub

I'm fond of Hornaday's Unique Case Lube. That $5 tub will last you a LONG time-- I've done probably 5,000 cases with it and used less than 1/4 of the container. I use my fingers to spread it.

I concur 100%.
I tried this stuff on LC 5.56 and touching it with my finger then touching the case will lube plenty, then I run a couple cases with no lube. No sticking at all. I'm impressed with this stuff.

[dromia]

Concur on Hornady Unique, used to use Imperial but Unique is at least as good at a fraction of the price for a lot more. No brainer really!

[snuffy]

For serious reforming and heavy duty sizing I suggest our Bullsize case sizing lube

Dan, what do you use to remove it? I got some from you once when I ordered bullplate, alcohol won't remove it, like it will other lubes. I don't remember what It took to remove it, but I gave up on it because alky took the midway spray lube and imperial off real easy.

IIRC it took acetone, but that stuff evaporates so quickly, you don't get any "life" out of it. Paint thinner? I'd hate use it, the smell gets to me after a while.

[shadowcaster]

Hydraulic jack oil thinned with alcohol Has been my go to case lube for years. It doesn't take much and I haven't stuck a case yet.

Shad

[dkf]

I use the Lee resizing lubricant.(in the white tube) Never had any issues with it. It can be mixed with iso alcohol and sprayed on also.

[Wayne Smith]

Long time ago I remember reading that the RCBS case lube is STP re-packaged.

[762 shooter]

I just small base sized 1000 machine gun fired 7.62. I tried a lot of lubes. Some of the older than rock forum members suggested lanolin. I had a small tube of lanolin from years ago to make BP lube cakes. I would wipe a small amount on my finger and swipe a light ring around the case about 1/2 in from the shoulder. By far the slickest of all the above mentioned case lubes. The tube of lanolin is about 3 inches long and I probably only have enough lube left to size 40 thousand more cases.

I have a Lee case trimmer that I can chuck into my drill. After I trim and chamfer, I grab a cloth or paper towel and grab the brass as it rotates and wipe off the lube.

Works for me. And all my 7.62"s.

762

[max range]

I bought a "jar' of Sharp Shoot R Royal Case Sizing Wax in 2008 and after several thousand rounds loaded I still haven't used a quarter of it
you get a 4oz jar of it for the same price as the Imperial 2oz tin.

^ I really like the Royal case lube. Prior to finding it, I used Imperial and the Hornady wax. The Royal is superior to both, and they are superior to any spray or commerical tube type lube.

[trapper9260]

I use 3 in One oil and had better sizen then ATF and I use to use lyman case lube but too many problems then I use 3 in one oil no more problems I use it on the pad and roll them.

[Epd230]

The trick to the One Shot is spraying so the inside gets hit. You have to lube the neck also. I use a Qtip and hit about every 4th case.

[Two Rivers]

I've had good luck with the original imperial sizing die wax as many have said, but I've got to try some Bag Balm, I'd never thought of that before.

[Moonie]

My go-to for many years has been 91% alcohol-anhydrous lanolin 6-1 or so in a pump hair spray bottle. Shake well before using.

[EDG]

I use Imperial for normal sizing.
Mystic JT6 grease will handle the most severe case forming operations.

[woolybear]

....milsurp brass can be tougher than the hinges of hell when resizing. I swab the inside of the case mouth with a lubed q-tip to help ease the pain. Then clean again before reloading.

[USMC87]

2 ounces of liquid lanolin to 12 ounces of iso heet. You can size better than any of the factory lubes.

[Nickle]

I've had troubles with some spray lubes. I do keep Imperial on hand, as well as a pad and conventional case lube.

That said, the Hornady lube usually works, unless doing some of the tougher work like case forming. Then it's either conventional or Imperial for me.

[1500FPS]

I don't like lanolin because it's too greasy. I've settled on Imperial wax. I've tried the Hornady aerosol and had sizing problems with it. One thing I don't like about it is that it is water based. That made me think of what it may do to dies I don't use often. Like maybe rust them?

[mj2evans]

I really like the alcohol/lanolin spray for large batches of brass. If I only need 20 cases I use RCBS or Lee store bought stuff on my fingers. I have heard you can thin the Lee stuff with water and spray but never tried that. Also heard of guys using electric cable pulling lube thinned with water (you can get a Lowes) but again have not tried that since the lanolin worked so well.

That Hornady spary can resulted in my only stuck cases EVER.

[CPL Lou]

STP Oil Treatment work great. I put a little on my lube pad and let it soak in for a day or so.
I've been using it for 30 years with never a problem !

CPL Lou

[Salmon-boy]

I just had a recently hard time resizing some 50BMG rounds.. I tried my own Lanolin/Alcohol mix, Lee's case resizing lube, and Redding's wax..

What wound up working the best was Astroglide.. YES, that stuff.. I've also used it to thread 3/4 in iron pipe with excellent results..

[Victor N TN]

Imperial sizing die wax.

[KYCaster]

Go to the nearest electrical wholesale supplier and ask for wire pulling lube.

At about 8 bucks a QUART, you, your extended family, friends and all your neighbors will have enough to last several life times.

Works at least as well as anything I've tried, and better than most.

Jerry

[caseyboy]

Johnston's Paste Wax!

[Echo]

I got a can of Alemite CD-2 (like STP) 40 years ago, poured it into an Amway squeeze bottle, and still have about 1/3 bottle left. I squeeze a bit (about the size of a lima bean) into my Thumler barrel, smear it around, and tumble up to 50 30-06 cases, or more .223's, for about 20 minutes, and that leaves a thin deposit on all cases. Removal is in a coffee can w/mineral spirits, tossing the MS afterwards. If I'm in production mode, I can tumble a second barrel full while processing the first, and so on...

[weasel 21]

I made up a solution of1 part liquid lanolin to 9 parts 99% isopropyl alcohol; put it a spray bottle; mist the cases; wait 5 min & cases are a breeze to size.

[junkdude]

I do full length resize to 308 223 and convertion to 300.
I use lanolin oil and 91% alcohol i mix it in a ratio of 2 alcohol 1 lanolin.
Works great for me. I picked on the recepie in one of the forums.
Cost:
Lanolin oil (Pure) $9.99 (8oz) (wholefoods market)
Alcohol 91% (16oz) $1.99 (Walgreen)
So that is $12 for 24 OZ which last a very long time.

Empty spay bottle if you don't have one is 0.89 at home depot

I spray the cases in a bin, shake and mix the cases, spray again and that's it. wait 2-3 minutes for the alcohol to go away.

On another subject. I get 308 that will not go into the die. If i force them (i did twice) they will not come out of the die. According to Dillon, it is due to a loose barrel of M-60 the case just expended so much it is not usable any more.

I do almost the same as this except lanolin was hard to find and too expensive from heath food store.

I use Unique sizing lube and dissolve a heaping teaspoon full in about 1/3 cup (+/-) of 99% rubbing alcohol. Put in a glass jar and shake up real good until is is all dissolved. Then pore into an old pump aerosol container (Off insect repellent for example). Shake good before use also.

Take a large ziploc bag and spray some into the bag. Pour the brass into the bag, close up and roll around until all the brass is coated. Then dump out into a tray of some sort to let the alcohol evaporate. I usually let it sit 20-30 minutes, if you get impatient and try sizing before the alcohol has evaporated they will stick in the die and are a bugger to get out.

After sizing, throw in the tumbler to clean.

[Walter Laich]

When I started reloading 45-70 I got the old Lyman lube pad. That was 'the' thing when I reloaded rifle back in the mid-60s--shows you how old I am.
Does the job but as soon as I run out of the lube that came with it will be trying some of the suggestions above

thanks

[dragon813gt]

Mink Oil. Cheap, available everywhere and a tin will last a very long time. Rub your fingers in the tub every few cases, roll a case between your fingers quickly and you're done. Still haven't had a single stuck case.

[Iowa Fox]

The best stuff that I have found for sizing stubborn military range pickup brass is Lee sizing wax. I touch my finger tips to the end of the Lee tube and then draw the case through my thumb and two fingers for a light applied film to the case. They seem to slide in the resizing die a little easier if you don't let it totally dry, I use a Q tip for the inside of the necks. I've never stuck a case with it and don't get dents, it seems a little slicker than Imperial in my experience with the two. Plus its easy to clean off the case. I use Dillon in the progressive, but its greasy feeling and takes mineral spirits to wipe it off.

[sirgknight]

As you can see, there have been many great ideas and ways to resize brass. The main thing to remember is that "proper" lubing is the key to successful sizing. I have used many (if not all, at one time or another) of the products listed in this thread, but the sprays are undoubtedly my least favorite. The sprays are entirely too wasteful for my money. Although they are more time consuming and occasionally do get somewhat dirty, I have found the lube pad to be the most dependable, effective and successful method for my sizing. But, pads can be easily cleaned by soaking them in gasoline and rinsing them a few times. The gasoline will remove virtually all the oil residues in the pad and leave it very clean and new looking. Using a pad and neck brush I have never had a stuck casing in my dies, but proper lubing is the key.

[500MAG]

I use marvel mystery oil on a rag. Swirl the case before sizing. It goes through like a hot knife through butter.

[Outpost75]

Any lanolin rich salve or ointment works well. Alberto VO5 hair dressing, Bag Balm, the mink oil and beeswax boot dressings also work. Or just go to your local pharmacy and order a pound of Fougera brand of Lanolin, Modified, Topical Lubricant, which is used as a base for formulating salves and ointments.

[ridurall]

I tried all kinds of lubes when I got my 50 BMG and started resizing .50 caliber Armor Piercing Incendiary pull GI surplus bullets that I could get for .35 cents each. The only lube that I found that would not leave me with a bullet stuck in the bullet sizer was the Imperial Sizing Wax. It's so slick that I can't hold on to a 647 grain bullet after I lube it. I have ended up using it on triggers and lots of other parts not just gun stuff either. As my dear father used to say "it's slicker then greased owl ****". Since then I also put it on my RCBS lube pad and roll my cases and bullets in it when I need to lube them.

[enfieldphile]

Go to the nearest electrical wholesale supplier and ask for wire pulling lube.

At about 8 bucks a QUART, you, your extended family, friends and all your neighbors will have enough to last several life times.

Works at least as well as anything I've tried, and better than most.

Jerry

YES! I have been using GB Wire Pulling Lube since the middle 90's. It smells & feels exactly the same as LEE Wax lube. It can be used wet, or let it dry. If left to dry inside the case necks, it eases tension on the expander and it does not need to be removed from inside the necks. If used wet on the outside of cases, just a damp cloth will remove it. A quart can be had from any home center, such as Home Depot, Lowes, etc. $4.00 a quart @ Lowes. :smile:

http://www.lowes.com/pd_89173-1781-79-006_0__?productId=3376896&Ntt=wire+pulling+lube&pl=1&currentURL=%3FNtt%3Dwire%2Bpulling%2Blube&facetInfo=

[JM7.7x58]

I recently re-formed a batch of 200 30-06 cases into 7.7 x 58 Japanese. I used air tool oil as case lube. I used a piece of bike spoke wire with a bit of cotton string tied on the end to swab the inside of the case mouth. I would slightly dab the outside of the case, and then rub it on with my finger tips. No stuck case. No money spent, I’ve had that bottle of oil for fifteen years.
I don’t have tumblers. Everything gets washed with hot water and Dawn dish soap. Then dried in the oven.

[lightman]

Over the years I have use a lot of different things for lube. They all worked although some worked better than others. In recent years I have settled on two. I use Imperial when neck sizing, applied with my fingers and Dillon spray lube for all other sizing jobs.

[pertnear]

If someone gets anything from this thread, it looks like just about any good lubricant will get the job done. I've never used the spray types but people like it & report few problems using it. If the OP is having problems I suggest making sure the die is clean & polished. Clean brass throughly before lubing if they are real cruddy.

Once I found myself in front of my press starting a large bucket of .223 brass needing sizing. I sprayed the cases down really well with WD-40 & mixed them thoroughly with my hands. A few hours later they were all sized & I had a sore shoulder. Needless to say, all the brass had to be wet tumbled to get all the "lube" off!

[Dieter]

I started off with RCBS and the pad. I’ve been using Imperial for a couple of years now. They have the wax and the powder. Both work quite well. I haven’t tried anything else since then.
http://i67.tinypic.com/j5f47a.jpg

[GONRA]

GONRA's pretty sure the small cans of paste lube you buy are repackaged die drawing lube.
STP Oil Treatment and Tri-Flow Synthetic Grease are what you want for difficult case sizing jobs.

[Echo]

I bought a container of Alemite CD-2 (tells you how long ago that was!) and am still using from that container! So give the current type of loob additive a try. I tumble my cases with about a kidney-bean size blob - don't need much!