Brass shotshell hulls.

[Malgus]

Hi y'all..

This might seem like the dumbest question ever, but does anyone on earth make all-brass shotgun hulls in 2 3/4" and 3" lengths in 12 ga? I've seen the 2 1/2" hulls, etc, and was just wondering..

I think they look just awesome, really classy, and would be interested in how to properly load those hulls...

Mal

[joec]

Not that I'm aware but then Magtech does make a 2.5" shell that works fine in all of my shotguns. I load them with BP only and never tried to load them with smokeless. I actually use an Lee Classic Turret and RCBS 12 ga shot shell die. It works really well and uses large pistol primers. I got mine from http://www.buffaloarms.com/Shotgun_Reloading_Brass_it-161406.aspx?CAT=3832 as well as the needed wads.

[jmort]

Yes, Rocky Mountain Cartridge. Truly investment grade and take 209s whereas the Magtechs take LP primers. Their reloading tools are seriously nice as well, and they make one for the Magtechs.. For sure, when I have some $$$ to do it, I'll buy 25 to 50 of the RMC 3" 12 gauge. For now it's the Magtechs and my stash of LP primers. I do have some smokeless data for the Magtechs as all the published data is for BP/BP substitutes.

[jmort]

Here is link
http://rockymountaincartridge.com/products.htm

[Malgus]

Here is link
http://rockymountaincartridge.com/products.htm

OOOoooo! Shiny!

Thanks for bird-dogging that for me. And thanks to Joe for the Magtech lead...

I might have to make an investment. I have a coach gun that takes 3" shells, and I'm fine with commercial ammo, but danged if them all brass shells don't look so purty! I remember the guys in Nam loved the all-brass shells because they didn't swell up like the paper-hulled rounds. Forgot about them for a long time, then watched 3:10 to Yuma again and sure enough, old Byron the Bounty Hunter had a bunch of them on his belt... got me to thinkin' about it again...

Thanks again, y'all.

Mal

[Malgus]

In the cobwebby parts of my mind, sometimes things bubble up uncalled for. Sometimes, what bubbles up is actually useful.

Thinking about these brass shotshells, a word bubbled up in my mind... "Waterglass".

So, I did a quick search, and Lo and Behold, this popped up:

From Wiki:


Adhesive

Similarly, sodium silicate was also used to cement the top wad into brass shotgun shells, thereby eliminating any need for a crimp at the top of the brass shotgun shell to hold a shotgun shell together. Reloading brass shotgun shells was widely practiced by self-reliant American farmers during the 1870s, using the same waterglass material that was also used to preserve eggs. The cementing of the top wad on a shotgun shell consisted of applying from 3 to 5 drops of waterglass on the top wad to secure it to the brass hull. Brass hulls for shotgun shells were superseded by paper hulls starting around 1877. The newer paper-hulled shotgun shells used a roll crimp in place of a waterglass cemented joint to hold the top wad in the shell. However, whereas brass shotshells with top wads cemented with waterglass could be reloaded nearly indefinitely (given powder, wad, and shot, of course), the paper hulls that replaced the brass hulls could be reloaded only a few times.

How cool is that??! The subject has probably been brought up here before, maybe multiple times, but I'm just tickled at finding this..

Sodium silicate... hmmm... might be worth investing in some. After all, if it worked 140 years ago, there's nothing saying it won't work today..

Interesting...

Mal

[pipehand]

Mal, if you don't have an old timey pharmacy that can get you the waterglass, check out your local NAPA dealer and ask for "Block Sealer". Same thing. I've also seen reference to using "Duco Cement" to seal the overshot wad.

[dverna]

$7 per case!!! Too rich for me.

[joec]

I've used water glass, Borden's wood glue, silicone bath tub caulking and wife's clear fingernail polish. Pretty much anything will work for this. The problem with water glass is its shelf life as the wood glue works a bit better for me. My shot guns also handle 3" shells but will handle the Magtech 2.5" fine also. Oh and they last when loaded to cowboy action loads a very long time, much longer than say pistol or rifle brass will.

[Malgus]

I've used water glass, Borden's wood glue, silicone bath tub caulking and wife's clear fingernail polish. Pretty much anything will work for this. The problem with water glass is its shelf life as the wood glue works a bit better for me. My shot guns also handle 3" shells but will handle the Magtech 2.5" fine also. Oh and they last when loaded to cowboy action loads a very long time, much longer than say pistol or rifle brass will.

Waterglass has a shelf life? In liquid or powder form? Or are you talking about from when it is applied to the top wad? The Wiki article said that when waterglass was applied to paper cartridges, it would eventually crack and such after 3 to 5 years. Does it do the same when it comes to the top wad on a brass shotshell?

Interesting.

[drsfmd]

A thin smear of Elmers glue works just fine in place of waterglass. Just don't get the shell wet. A drop or two of wax will do the job as well.

[joec]

Waterglass has a shelf life? In liquid or powder form? Or are you talking about from when it is applied to the top wad? The Wiki article said that when waterglass was applied to paper cartridges, it would eventually crack and such after 3 to 5 years. Does it do the same when it comes to the top wad on a brass shotshell?

Interesting.

I mean after it is applied to the shell as with paper it cracks also with brass shells. Now it lasts, and if I ventured a guess I would say a couple of years depending on how the shells are loaded while some of the other things I've used last a lot longer. I don't think any hold up for ever except perhaps a crimp but with brass it defeats the purpose a bit. It is also difficult to find which is another draw back to using it. Elmers or Bordon glue do the same thing and can be thinned a bit also.

[Malgus]

So much information.. I thank you all for your help. I'm used to being the teacher, not the taught. But I will take useful information, no matter where it comes from, and be glad I got it.

All y'all are just awesome. Thanks much for all your help.

Mal

Oh, hey joec? You're only about an hour or so from our farm... we're here just a bit north of Fort Harrod. Good to see a fellow Kentuckian here.

[KCSO]

Remember that the 2 1/2" brass shells will hold more powder and shot than a 2 3/4" paper hull. I can fit 85 grains of FFG and 1 5/8 ox of shot in a brass mag tech and I can't imagaine needed more of a load than that.

[jimb16]

Use 11 ga wads for best loading. I've used Green Dot for most of my 000 buck loads. I used the magtec cases and found that the old antique loading tools still work perfectly well with these cases. I used to have a Winchester trench gun that I loaded them for. Never had any problems even using heavy loads in the tube mags. I used slightly thinned Elmer's to seal the overshot wads. I still have a tin "box" of those old brass 12 guage loads floating around here somewhere.

[hubel458]

And you can use our sabots in brass cases, by using press in fit.
Get as much powder in 2.5" Magtech case as a 3" plastic if loaded like picture.
Expand case to take sabot as a real tught fit, as sabot is slightly oversize,
and load by pressing in sabot and bullet with press.Ed

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