Boolit seating depth

[soldierbilly1]

I know, I know, probably discussed to death here already.
I got out my Lyman bullet casting text and this is not discussed for auto pistols.

Can someone direct me to where I can find a nice, short general discussion of determining proper
boolit seating depth for autos, say, like the 45 ACP.

I would like to know the correct method. I've been flying by the seat of my pants the last few years.
I tried the search engine but the responses are all over the map.
thanks

billy boy

[Shiloh]

For Autos, I seat so they drop in the chamber. Some can be longer than the fit in a chamber gage. I don't however like to seat deaper than recommended.

Shiloh

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

What are you seating ?

Most boolits, just use the Lyman manual, you should be OK.
there is at least one exception...
I use (and like) the Lee 452-228-1R and this one has a fat nose.
they need to be seated to 1.210" for them to cycle reliably in my 45s.
Jon

[Bucking the Tiger]

JonB_in_Glencoe, I do the same thing. The Lee 228 does great at 1.210". It is fat,and won't act right seated any longer.

[Bucking the Tiger]

I know, I know, probably discussed to death here already.
I got out my Lyman bullet casting text and this is not discussed for auto pistols.

Can someone direct me to where I can find a nice, short general discussion of determining proper
boolit seating depth for autos, say, like the 45 ACP.

I would like to know the correct method. I've been flying by the seat of my pants the last few years.
I tried the search engine but the responses are all over the map.
thanks

billy boy

Hey soldierbilly1, I am no professor, but have used some simple methods for years that work. Seating depth in automatics can and will vary according to bullet profile and how your chamber is cut. I have owned a H&K USP .45 and now own a Colt Gold Cup and neither would chamber any round longer than 1.230".
1. Determine what length will chamber in your particular handgun with your chosen bullet. This is a bit of trial and
error( load powderless load at recommended length(from manual) and slowly shorten length with seater die until
chambering is reliable.Don't forget taper crimp if your flare on the mouth leaves an edge. Cycle them through
your handgun) This can be involving, but doesn't have to be done again once you determine your seating depth.
2. The min length for .45 is 1.190" and the max is 1.275". You can land anywhere in between this and do fine.
When loading on the shorter length, begin with the starting load and work up.Less case capacity( when bullet
is deeper) means less powder to get the same velocity.
3. I find a lot of people scared of seating depth and load as long as possible. Not the worst idea, but some
automatics simply have shorter chambers and won't take max length shown in load manuals. I spent years in the
U.S. Marines as an armorer and found G.I. .45 ball ammo was 1.210" in length and loaded with 5 grains of
Bullseye. Measure a lot of factory ammo and you will find a lot of it on the shorter side, since this will chamber in
more guns and get velocity with less powder.
4. Find the seating depth that will chamber in your handgun for a bullet, keep a record of it, and use the starting
powder charge and work up when selecting a powder.
I made all of this sound a lot more complicated than it is. This has worked well for me.

[soldierbilly1]

Mr Tiger et al:
thanks for the advice. this is pretty much what I was doing, but I could not find anything solid on depth for handguns.
there's lots for sure on rifles, handguns, not so much.
I gotta go check some OAL's!
billy boy

[runfiverun]

I don't even know what most of my oal's are.
I just make sure they function in all the guns I have in that caliber.
if it's a semi-auto they have to work 100% of the time.
I don't care what length they are, I care that they work.

[Jim..47]

I think seating depth is what ever a loader finds works best for him. I don't usually agree with that but in loading the 45acp I do.

When I first got my Kimber I bought components only and loaded some 230 Gr. jacketed ball ammo, at 1.287. Worked fine, but when I bought my 2 Lyman molds, one a .230 Gr. round nose and the other a 200 Gr SWC. The 230 round nose loaded just like the jacketed. The 200 Gr SWC I had to back off to 1.185 to get eject problems under control and be reliable.

Now when I get time I'm going to try running the SWC through a Lee FCD and see if I can load them a little longer.

[mdi]

"Solid" info is what is in the reloading manual for the specific bullet you are using (I haven't had that data fail me with any bullet). Many reloaders use the manual's OAL as a starting point and if that is too long, then they will shorten the OAL. Many reloaders use the "thunk/plunk" test only. Don't waste your time messing with a Lee FCD; just think of the bizillions of .45 ACP rounds reloaded, successfully, prior to FCD's introduction!

[soldierbilly1]

"Solid" info is what is in the reloading manual for the specific bullet you are using (I haven't had that data fail me with any bullet). Many reloaders use the manual's OAL as a starting point and if that is too long, then they will shorten the OAL. Many reloaders use the "thunk/plunk" test only. Don't waste your time messing with a Lee FCD; just think of the bizillions of .45 ACP rounds reloaded, successfully, prior to FCD's introduction!

mdi: I tossed the Lee FCD ages ago. I use the Lee taper crimp die as my final step. Nice pix.
thanks
billy boy