best primer pocket decrimper ??

[casca]

I have an RCBS trim mate, need a decrimper that( would like ) work on the trim mate

whats on your bench ?

casca

[finishman2000]

what's on my bench? the dillon swager, for 28 years now and never a problem. no faster way to do it.

[Love Life]

Best primer pocket swager? The super 1050...

On a serious note you can get a RCBS kit that goes in your press for about $30.00.

[1tomcat]

I just got a RCBS 9481 from Opticsplanet for $45. I swaged 500 LC 308 with no problem in its first use. Opticsplanet was the only place I found that had it in stock. Ebay prices were $60 and up.

[Guardian]

I used the RCBS setup that went into a press and was quite disappointed with it. The support rods peened quickly and eventually bent, like they weren't sufficiently hardened. It could have been operator error as well.

I was trying to decide between the Dillon Super Swage and the new RCBS bench swage tool. I ended up with the RCBS bench swage tool due to availability when I needed it. It has worked very well and I'm glad I spent the money on it. I haven;t used the Dillon, but the design is similar. Love Life probably has the best answer, but that's more than I had to spend at the time (or now, for that matter).

[GabbyM]

I use the RCBS primer pocket swag kit on a Rock Chucker press. First I lightly chamfer pockets with a case neck tool or various other chamfer tools in a drill. Not to much cutting. Just remove the raised metal that will never go back in place anyways. I also use a carbide primer pocket uniformer. Sold by Sinclair. Depending upon how the pockets are deformed. Sometimes or maybe most times I'll use the carbide cutter in a drill after the slight chamfer to set the pocket depth and it will often remove metal from the lip. Then use the pocket swag die. Copious amounts of case lube on the swag pin and pocket is a good thing. The RCBS swag tool needs lube to work properly as does any metal form die. I are a machinist and former Fab shop lackey. With the pocket deburred and set to depth the RCBS swag pin is unobstructed to perform it's job. If the tool binds up sometimes then you're not uniformed.

Backing up to a raw mil surp case. First thing to use is use a #1 C-Drill with the small point ground off to remove the hideous burrs on military cases. You can use a regular flash hole uniformer. Which is a #1 C-Drill (center drill) in a holder. But the pint of the C-Drill hits the primer anvil. God gave us grinding wheels so we can shape that point to a nub for a special purpose mil case flash hole deburr tool. After deburring the flash hole you'll almost never break a decap pin. About ten years back I did 7,500 5.56mm NATO cases with one decap pin. In no small part due to using the flash hole deburr tool weeds out Berdan cases pretty good by feel.

To close this long windy / gabby post.
Mil Surp cases IMHO are only worth minimum wage time if you can pick them up for free or near free. Since they are usually a mixed up batch lot when purchased from a vendor. Following some fellow who bought a big case of ammo to blast. Then has all cases from the same lot, is the way to go. Even then $28 per thousand is all I’d pay. Now some wonder why I’m so hard on mil surp brass. Well I used to shoot prairie dogs. No 5.56mm mil surp is up to that task. Using that junk brass is a total waste of time when it comes to hitting a two inch target at four hundred yards. Sure you’ll hit one now and then. But you’re lobbing Sierra Blitz-Kings and 27 grains of powder over a Match primer. You end up with a dollar waiting on a dimes worth of case.

I use mil surplus brass to load M-193 equivalent rounds. Plus night time varmint cast boolits where I’ll not be picking up brass 3/4ths time. Past 100 yards Military brass is pretty much useless. Now I’ll don my flame suit. Fact is I can punch tighter 100 yard groups with my K frame Smith 38 than most Mal ninjas with M-4’s.Thus I consider mil surp brass for the twelve and under group. Or three gun Machos. AKA eight inch plate targets.

I personally use Military Surplus cases. I just do not load high price bullets onto a junk case. Hornady TAP 223 cases from Dumb *** ranges used to go for $45 per thousand. Hornady 223 bass is good stuff. Not as long lived as Lapua but when you need a thousand to shoot once per year at the same time it’s up front.

[country gent]

I used the dillon supwer swage for years with my Mil surpluss brass ( well my wife did as she took care of brass prep) with very satisfing results am completely satisfied with it. After 25+ years its still like new. As to Mil surpluss brass my most acurate 600 yd loads for my M1-A used Lake city match brass or special purpose brass. But then I was just a High master. I hate to think how many loads Ive put up in LC brass. There are reamers and press mounted swagers, some even use a deburring tool. I perfer the swages since they dont remove any metal.

[dragonrider]

I have both the RCBS and the Dillon, prefer the Dillon it's faster and I think the PP's are more uniform.

[dragon813gt]

I have a press mounted one from CH4D. Best value IMO. I don't process thousands at a time. Turning out 500 is a quick and painless process w/ it. As long as you follow the instructions you won't rip any case heads off. I haven't had any issues when processing mixed head stamps as well.

[oldandslow]

casca,
I just put my reamer in my drill press and run it at slow speed and it removes the crimp in less than a second. At one end of the reaming tool is a long metal stem that fits perfectly into the chuck of my press. It's low tech but practical and fast.

good luck- oldandslow

[Love Life]

I use the RCBS primer pocket swag kit on a Rock Chucker press. First I lightly chamfer pockets with a case neck tool or various other chamfer tools in a drill. Not to much cutting. Just remove the raised metal that will never go back in place anyways. I also use a carbide primer pocket uniformer. Sold by Sinclair. Depending upon how the pockets are deformed. Sometimes or maybe most times I'll use the carbide cutter in a drill after the slight chamfer to set the pocket depth and it will often remove metal from the lip. Then use the pocket swag die. Copious amounts of case lube on the swag pin and pocket is a good thing. The RCBS swag tool needs lube to work properly as does any metal form die. I are a machinist and former Fab shop lackey. With the pocket deburred and set to depth the RCBS swag pin is unobstructed to perform it's job. If the tool binds up sometimes then you're not uniformed.

Backing up to a raw mil surp case. First thing to use is use a #1 C-Drill with the small point ground off to remove the hideous burrs on military cases. You can use a regular flash hole uniformer. Which is a #1 C-Drill (center drill) in a holder. But the pint of the C-Drill hits the primer anvil. God gave us grinding wheels so we can shape that point to a nub for a special purpose mil case flash hole deburr tool. After deburring the flash hole you'll almost never break a decap pin. About ten years back I did 7,500 5.56mm NATO cases with one decap pin. In no small part due to using the flash hole deburr tool weeds out Berdan cases pretty good by feel.

To close this long windy / gabby post.
Mil Surp cases IMHO are only worth minimum wage time if you can pick them up for free or near free. Since they are usually a mixed up batch lot when purchased from a vendor. Following some fellow who bought a big case of ammo to blast. Then has all cases from the same lot, is the way to go. Even then $28 per thousand is all I’d pay. Now some wonder why I’m so hard on mil surp brass. Well I used to shoot prairie dogs. No 5.56mm mil surp is up to that task. Using that junk brass is a total waste of time when it comes to hitting a two inch target at four hundred yards. Sure you’ll hit one now and then. But you’re lobbing Sierra Blitz-Kings and 27 grains of powder over a Match primer. You end up with a dollar waiting on a dimes worth of case.

I use mil surplus brass to load M-193 equivalent rounds. Plus night time varmint cast boolits where I’ll not be picking up brass 3/4ths time. Past 100 yards Military brass is pretty much useless. Now I’ll don my flame suit. Fact is I can punch tighter 100 yard groups with my K frame Smith 38 than most Mal ninjas with M-4’s.Thus I consider mil surp brass for the twelve and under group. Or three gun Machos. AKA eight inch plate targets.

I personally use Military Surplus cases. I just do not load high price bullets onto a junk case. Hornady TAP 223 cases from Dumb *** ranges used to go for $45 per thousand. Hornady 223 bass is good stuff. Not as long lived as Lapua but when you need a thousand to shoot once per year at the same time it’s up front.

Wow. I'll accept your challenge. Your k-38 against my M4 at 100 yards.

You are 100% wrong. I use milsurp 5.56 and 308 exclusively and have killed many a ground squirrel and jak rabbit beyond 250 yards using LC 5.56 brass, and yes even to 400 yards. Oh the horror!!! I have also shot under 1 inch at 300 yards too many times to count shooting plain jane LC 308 brass. Sub MOA to 600 yards is easy cheese unless one of our super, direction changing winds comes through.

[Maximumbob54]

I bought the RCBS press mount kit for milsurp .223 cases and thought it was terrible. The swage rod bent half way through despite me having sorted the cases, the rod is flat on the bottom so trying to line up the case mouth opening with a rod almost the same size was a trial, and flat out it was just painful slow. RCBS sent out "new and improved" rods that look exactly the same. Then I bought the Dillon Super Swage 600 and will NEVER use the RCBS kit EVER again. It's a shame that RCBS had to find a way to copy the Dillon unit to have a tool that works as well. I'm not a dyed blue Dillon fan but they hit it out of the park on the SS600's design. It's very much a buy it once item.

[Tonto]

If you are not in a hurry, the RCBS press mounted tool works fine, I've had mine for over 30 years and it has swaged thousands of 9mm, 223, 308 and 30/06 primer pockets. Sometimes a little lube on the punch works wonders too, helps with your speed. Too fast and you might get a taste of the pounds per square inch power of a Rockchucker ram....

[midnight]

The first crimps I ever had to remove were LC08 50BMG cases. I first tried the little RCBS cone shaped crimp remover with 10-32 thread cuz I could chuck it in my electric screwdriver and remove the crimp with power. What a big mistake. It put a slight bevel on the mouth of the primer pocket. No way could I press a primer in that hole. Next I got the Wilson crimp remover that works with their case trimmer. Best move I ever made. It cuts the crimp out and the non-cutting end cleans the pocket and doesn't deepen it. Primers seat smooth and easy. The Wilson (sold by Sinclair) is the best tool for the job that I've run across. The large & small reamers work on the standard case trimmer and the 50BMG reamer works on the big 50BMG trimmer.

Bob